8:06 The highlighted text says Elring 655.790 which is throttle sealant while on the package you hold in the hand is written Elring 475.931. So shall I buy 475.931? Anyway, you made a great tutorial! Thank you!
Yeah that's a mistake from me, good catch. The green seals on video that are 4pcs for the bottom part of air intake are indeed Elring 475.931 (or OEM number 06A133398). I also had Elring 655.790 on the same order so they got mixed up.
On 180000km I already did this whole procedure twice. Also I got a middle oil consumption - 1 liter per 4000km. Also replaced all silentblocks twice- thanks to our roads. Such kind of adventures moving my mind to sell the car ;)
I understand. A liter per 4000 km is A LOT. Luckily I have started changing the oil often and quite early, so my 1.6 MPI is one of the very few that doesn't burn oil like crazy. But I have definitely heard about worse ones, where depending on the driving style the engine would burn as much as 1 liter per 1000 km. That engine is basically getting a continuous oil change...
@@carsandtools I used alfa romeo with 2.0 TwinSpark engine. It used 1 liter per 1200 km. I still drove 60 thousand kilometers with that. In the end it was 1 liter per 180 km. Then I had it scrapped : - )
I have the same engine and this video helped me so much to do some maintenance with the detailed information about the parts and tools needed. I would love to see more work on this engine so maybe i could do it too on mine :D
At 6:22 when you reinstalling the secondary air pump, there is a small slot that holds the dip stick tube in place. Make sure to put it back in its place, otherwise it will be kinda loose. :D
@@georgikirov9910 Where is it wrong? At 8:18 you can see the markings A-B-C-D (top right-bottom left-top left-bottom right). A=1st cylinder, B=2nd cyl and so on. At 2:39 and 5:34 you can see they are wired the same.
Great video. I have an '09 Jetta with the same engine that stumbles at idle and low RPM load when it's hot (seems to idle smoothly when it's cold). Its not enough to smoke or throw a CEL, but it's just an annoyance whdn idling at a light and it does burn (or leak) quite a bit of oil. Just haven't decided if I want to trar into it like this, I've never had a car that requires removal of intake manifold to change the plugs.
For just the spark plugs, the removal is not needed. I've done it once. It's possible but quite a pain especially for the two middle spark plugs. But definitely doable.
No problem. That's why I made it. 5 years ago when I first did the spark plugs, everyone just said "just remove the air intake, it's so much easier", but I just couldn't find out any guide how to actually do that. :D
What torque is Newton in European number, so should the sockets be size 6 and bolt size 13 again when turning back? I have a Bse engine golf variant 2008 Thanks
Im confused shall i replace mine too, its 21 years old, i got the same engine. But i feel somewhere a heavy performance loss, especially in first gear. I replaced the spark plugs before with ik20tt.
Alguien sabe español? tengo un a3 1.6 bse 102hp manual 5 cambios año 2008 exactamente el mismo motor.. pero gaste casi 1 millon de pesos argentinos en reparaciones el motor me sigue fallando😂 siento como si la Explosion el quemado los hiciera mal y a destiempo.. 😢 nose como explicar.. como si hagia pochoclo mientras ando va haciendo borbotones.. y si he cambiado bobina cables y bujias 3 veces.. aros lleve a reparar leva, canbie todas las juntas, bomba nafta filtros todos.. medi cilindros medi presion nafta 4 bares.. ya nose que hacer
What a horrible and tedious job to do 😦 what always strikes me, is why Audi engines have to be so complex compares to VW ones. They come from the same factory basically. There is no reason for the intake manifold to be that complex.
Thank you for a very good workflow. What difference do you think is between Denso IK20TT and K20TT (power, stamina)? and why did you not ordered the original ignition module? It is commonly available..
I think the "I" ones are Iridium and many people have reported they lasted them significantly longer than regular plugs, but I have not had such luck as seen at 8:32... I've got them again, though, because without taking the air intake off its such a painful job and I don't want to do spark plugs again for as long as possible. Whether that was smart or not... well, I guess it doesn't really matter now. :D As far as the OEM ignition module, nice catch - I did not really notice it was also still available. :D But the Hitachi is also a good one. I tried to buy all the parts from renowned aftermarket brands. If I went for the cheapest everything, it would be a lot cheaper, too. But I intend to drive the car to the dust, so... :D
Letting air out of the fuel line. I think. I don't know, to be honest, I just saw air valve at the end of the fuel rail so I assumed that's what it for. 😅
What have your plugs looked like when you took them out? I think I have an oil ring problem on cyl4 since the plug is getting black and after sometime causes a misfire.
Of course it's not mandatory, just change what's bad (if you can tell in advance what the culprit is). In my case I didn't know exactly what was bad and decided to change everything since the air intake had to come off (and I really didn't want to do that more than once). Turned out I had corrosion on both the leads (9:57) and the coil pack (8:27), so it worked out for me. :D
@@carsandtools Great then! I changed the spark plugs, cables and ignition coil but not the module sitting on the ignition coil. I really cannot tell if the idle improved since, that’s why I was asking. I have the exact same engine. I would assume you have no gas smell on the back, right?
@@gheorghinacov6008 Oh ok, I didn't even know they could be separated, I always saw them as a whole thing. What do you mean by "gas smell on the back"? My main problem was misfiring under full throttle and insane slow crawling (the colder it was, the worse it got, too). I would put it in first gear, slowly release the clutch, give it a little gas and nothing would happen. Then, after 1-3 seconds, the something suddenly woke up and gave as much throttle as if I had put the pedal to the metal. This was going on for second or third winter and always stopped in the spring. Only this winter it came back with misfires and check engine lights, so I finally had to do something about it. :D As I found out, 1) there was corrosion on 2 of the leads as well as on the connectors on the coil pack, 2) the spark plug electrodes were completely burnt out so the gap was way bigger than it was supposed to be (8:46). Rough or uneven idle could also be caused by cracks and subsequent air leaks anywhere on the air pipes, air intake or seals, but most commonly (at least from what I saw online - for instance at www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/1-6-bse-engine-rough-idle-solved.456352/ ) was caused by damaged seals. Have you checked for that?
@@carsandtools By that I meant there is a sharp gasoline smell coming from the exhaust. I did pass the annual technical inspection but you just cannot run the engine inside of a closed garage. The smoke isn’t visible though. Now if you mention air leaks I do hear something whistling around the throttle body but I cannot tell if that’s how air whistles while goes through a tight opening of the valve.
No, but I am also doing oil change every 7-10k km. When running on the Long Life interval, these engines known to start burning lots of oil after 60k or so km when running a long life oil interval.
@@carsandtools 147k and it burns a lot of oil during winter and long drive. I also experience misfire couple times. First one i change coil pack cables and spark plugs. After a year it happen again, change coil pack and spark plugs, but still misfire. The culprit is the cable. And it happen again for the third time, same problem the shortest cable. Luckily i keep my old cables.
![Eminem - Temporary (feat. Skylar Grey) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZaK9Wi5ho0o/mqdefault.jpg)
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
8:06 The highlighted text says Elring 655.790 which is throttle sealant while on the package you hold in the hand is written Elring 475.931. So shall I buy 475.931? Anyway, you made a great tutorial! Thank you!
Yeah that's a mistake from me, good catch. The green seals on video that are 4pcs for the bottom part of air intake are indeed Elring 475.931 (or OEM number 06A133398).
I also had Elring 655.790 on the same order so they got mixed up.
On 180000km I already did this whole procedure twice. Also I got a middle oil consumption - 1 liter per 4000km. Also replaced all silentblocks twice- thanks to our roads. Such kind of adventures moving my mind to sell the car ;)
I understand. A liter per 4000 km is A LOT. Luckily I have started changing the oil often and quite early, so my 1.6 MPI is one of the very few that doesn't burn oil like crazy. But I have definitely heard about worse ones, where depending on the driving style the engine would burn as much as 1 liter per 1000 km. That engine is basically getting a continuous oil change...
@@carsandtools I used alfa romeo with 2.0 TwinSpark engine. It used 1 liter per 1200 km. I still drove 60 thousand kilometers with that. In the end it was 1 liter per 180 km. Then I had it scrapped : - )
I have the same engine and this video helped me so much to do some maintenance with the detailed information about the parts and tools needed. I would love to see more work on this engine so maybe i could do it too on mine :D
At 6:22 when you reinstalling the secondary air pump, there is a small slot that holds the dip stick tube in place. Make sure to put it back in its place, otherwise it will be kinda loose. :D
The new cables you fit them wrong and after you fix it . Are you sure about the firing order 2 3 and 1 4 on the right side od the coil ?
@@georgikirov9910 Where is it wrong?
At 8:18 you can see the markings A-B-C-D (top right-bottom left-top left-bottom right).
A=1st cylinder, B=2nd cyl and so on.
At 2:39 and 5:34 you can see they are wired the same.
Great video. I have an '09 Jetta with the same engine that stumbles at idle and low RPM load when it's hot (seems to idle smoothly when it's cold). Its not enough to smoke or throw a CEL, but it's just an annoyance whdn idling at a light and it does burn (or leak) quite a bit of oil. Just haven't decided if I want to trar into it like this, I've never had a car that requires removal of intake manifold to change the plugs.
For just the spark plugs, the removal is not needed. I've done it once. It's possible but quite a pain especially for the two middle spark plugs. But definitely doable.
best video on this topic, thank you
great video! looking to do this job on my A3 (same engine). this helped alot.
MEGA videjko bráško!!!
Fabrika, preporucuje podizanje obrtaja motora u praznom hodu na 850-900 o u min.Podrhtavanje se osetno smanjuje.Pozdrav
Like after replacing the spark plugs/coil pack? To be honest, I didn't read the shop manual this time.
Excellent video.. well explained.thank you.
Great video! Thank you!
Well done! Thank you!!
Спасибо за видео, помогло в работе!
No problem. That's why I made it. 5 years ago when I first did the spark plugs, everyone just said "just remove the air intake, it's so much easier", but I just couldn't find out any guide how to actually do that. :D
Excellent video!!
hey, what other inlet manifold can be fitted , im disgusted about the plastic one , maybe an ABA aluminium one instead? any chances?
Excelente trabalho
What torque is Newton in European number, so should the sockets be size 6 and bolt size 13 again when turning back?
I have a Bse engine golf variant 2008
Thanks
Im confused shall i replace mine too, its 21 years old, i got the same engine. But i feel somewhere a heavy performance loss, especially in first gear. I replaced the spark plugs before with ik20tt.
does the egr rubber hose suck air when idling?
Alguien sabe español? tengo un a3 1.6 bse 102hp manual 5 cambios año 2008 exactamente el mismo motor.. pero gaste casi 1 millon de pesos argentinos en reparaciones el motor me sigue fallando😂 siento como si la
Explosion el quemado los hiciera mal y a destiempo.. 😢 nose como explicar.. como si hagia pochoclo mientras ando va haciendo borbotones.. y si he cambiado bobina cables y bujias 3 veces.. aros lleve a reparar leva, canbie todas las juntas, bomba nafta filtros todos.. medi cilindros medi presion nafta 4 bares.. ya nose que hacer
What a horrible and tedious job to do 😦 what always strikes me, is why Audi engines have to be so complex compares to VW ones. They come from the same factory basically. There is no reason for the intake manifold to be that complex.
Thank you for a very good workflow. What difference do you think is between Denso IK20TT and K20TT (power, stamina)? and why did you not ordered the original ignition module? It is commonly available..
I think the "I" ones are Iridium and many people have reported they lasted them significantly longer than regular plugs, but I have not had such luck as seen at 8:32... I've got them again, though, because without taking the air intake off its such a painful job and I don't want to do spark plugs again for as long as possible. Whether that was smart or not... well, I guess it doesn't really matter now. :D
As far as the OEM ignition module, nice catch - I did not really notice it was also still available. :D But the Hitachi is also a good one. I tried to buy all the parts from renowned aftermarket brands. If I went for the cheapest everything, it would be a lot cheaper, too. But I intend to drive the car to the dust, so... :D
hola el codigo del motor es mpi o bse ?
@7:14 what exactly are you doing there?
Letting air out of the fuel line. I think. I don't know, to be honest, I just saw air valve at the end of the fuel rail so I assumed that's what it for. 😅
What have your plugs looked like when you took them out? I think I have an oil ring problem on cyl4 since the plug is getting black and after sometime causes a misfire.
8:33
Is it mandatory that both the ignition coil and ignition module should be changed? Isn’t the coil itself enough?
Of course it's not mandatory, just change what's bad (if you can tell in advance what the culprit is).
In my case I didn't know exactly what was bad and decided to change everything since the air intake had to come off (and I really didn't want to do that more than once). Turned out I had corrosion on both the leads (9:57) and the coil pack (8:27), so it worked out for me. :D
@@carsandtools
Great then! I changed the spark plugs, cables and ignition coil but not the module sitting on the ignition coil. I really cannot tell if the idle improved since, that’s why I was asking. I have the exact same engine. I would assume you have no gas smell on the back, right?
@@gheorghinacov6008 Oh ok, I didn't even know they could be separated, I always saw them as a whole thing. What do you mean by "gas smell on the back"?
My main problem was misfiring under full throttle and insane slow crawling (the colder it was, the worse it got, too). I would put it in first gear, slowly release the clutch, give it a little gas and nothing would happen. Then, after 1-3 seconds, the something suddenly woke up and gave as much throttle as if I had put the pedal to the metal. This was going on for second or third winter and always stopped in the spring. Only this winter it came back with misfires and check engine lights, so I finally had to do something about it. :D As I found out, 1) there was corrosion on 2 of the leads as well as on the connectors on the coil pack, 2) the spark plug electrodes were completely burnt out so the gap was way bigger than it was supposed to be (8:46).
Rough or uneven idle could also be caused by cracks and subsequent air leaks anywhere on the air pipes, air intake or seals, but most commonly (at least from what I saw online - for instance at www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/1-6-bse-engine-rough-idle-solved.456352/ ) was caused by damaged seals. Have you checked for that?
@@carsandtools
By that I meant there is a sharp gasoline smell coming from the exhaust. I did pass the annual technical inspection but you just cannot run the engine inside of a closed garage. The smoke isn’t visible though. Now if you mention air leaks I do hear something whistling around the throttle body but I cannot tell if that’s how air whistles while goes through a tight opening of the valve.
@@carsandtools
Anyway how is the engine idle when hot? I mean can you see it shaking even a little bit?
The piston rings, are ok?
It doesn't burn much oil in between oil changes so I'd think so.
Hello are you losing some oil on that engine? when its cold and when travelling highspeed? thanks
No, but I am also doing oil change every 7-10k km. When running on the Long Life interval, these engines known to start burning lots of oil after 60k or so km when running a long life oil interval.
@@carsandtools 147k and it burns a lot of oil during winter and long drive. I also experience misfire couple times. First one i change coil pack cables and spark plugs. After a year it happen again, change coil pack and spark plugs, but still misfire. The culprit is the cable. And it happen again for the third time, same problem the shortest cable. Luckily i keep my old cables.
I have same engine without secondary air pump on skoda octavia with automatic transmission poor engine ❌❌
At 7:10 what did you do?
When you open the driver's door, the fuel pump primes the fuel lines (builds up pressure). Then I purged the air by pressing the valve.
Dude mine is worst😔😔😔