Don't Waste Money On The Wrong Dampers/Shocks. PS: Don't Call Them 'Shocks' Either.
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- What is the most common mistake we make when learning how to set up our dampers and which ones we should buy?
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Frank Vasquez from KW Suspension answers these questions and more around high and low-speed compressions and rebound, driver feedback and why buying the most expensive dampers might be a waste of money.
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TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Why Use Dampers?
1:44 - Bump & Rebound Adjustment
3:34 - Driver Feedback
5:04 - High Speed Vs Low Speed
6:32 - Blow Off Valve
7:27 - Knowledge Vs Budget
9:10 - Basic Tips, Common Mistakes
11:24 - Thanks Frank!
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Авто/Мото
And whatever you do, don’t call it dampening 😉. It’s damping. Sorry, I had to.
What if you drive through a puddle?
@@bedlamite42 then the underside of your car has indeed been dampened.
@@bedlamite42
Then it's mildly moist 😉
Soaking up the bumps 😉
but, what if i want my "shock absorbers" wet?😜
Dampers and spring rates are one of the deepest holes you can ever climb down.
Try going up on spring rate, backing off bump resistance, add rebound resistance to control the energy of a stronger spring.
Then there's anti role bars, role centre and role centre coupling. Tyre wall construction, mass concentration, centres of gravity.
6 months of solid testing and you should get a real feel for what each does in isolation, but then you start combining various combinations AND THEN ADD AERO.😖
You will be hooked🙂
Also need to factor in “motion ratio” to get the right spring rates.
Yeah cool.. Suspension expert calls it a role bar, role centre and role centre coupling 😂 clearly a pro, or are you still traning for the role?
@@TML34 spring rate takes into account motion ratio. Example would be an inclined or bell crank spring mounting giving a rising spring rate.
It's just terms that are used when we get it wrong at the design stage and have to come up with an explanation (Excuse)
@@giddyurp After 35 years, still learning, just like everyone else
Now I'm hooked.
Good tip in regards to adjusting to the extreme when learning how something works. Same goes with a lot of other things. Photo editing is a good example. Crank up the clarity, vibrance, blacks, whites etc from min to max and see what it does to the image, then you will have a good understanding of what that adjustment does.
I only built cars for the street that i would like to be capable of doing track stuff. What i do is corner weigh the car, so i can get the correct weighted springs. Then i adjust the ride height to reasonable limits, (usually 2 of my finger width between the top of the tire and fender). Then i drive on highways that I'm familiar with that have imperfections in the road. I adjust the suspension until there is no more scrubbing and the bumps are handled in an OEM+ fashion. Then you'll have a great driving car that anybody will get into and be comfortable and have minor adjustments when the springs start to settle. Thanks Andre and HPA TEAM 💪
It’s all about negotiating weight distribution to meet your specific driving needs. Depending if you’re in a FWD, RWD, 4WD, etc., and other important factors including aerodynamics, type of tires, etc. you want the vehicles’ weight and momentum to be at the right place at the right time when you’re delivering steering input to the car.
as a wanna be sim racer this talk was great at helping really understand what some of the settings in ACC are.... Thank you!
To understand hi speed and low speed damping I was told hi speed is wheel control and low speed is body control it made it much easier to understand for me 👍
there is only how much force is on damper , it is controlled by springed valve, that has different oil flow by its travel, how much, it is defined by spring preload and how big are passes on certain positions of valve
Where people get confused is between shocks vs. struts. “Dampers”, as a generic term, could be used to describe both of these, but there is a fundamental difference.
So long as people know what you're talking about it's not really a big deal, we do agree with that for sure 😎 - Taz.
Play with the knob. Got it.
Good tips to get started here, boys!
When you boil it down, it really is that simple with the basic suspension setups most of us have in our street turned track cars. People overthink the small stuff - Taz
Luv you guys, you know your audience. 😊
Very informative!!
Tune the springs first, then dampers, then anti sway bars aka load transfer bars.
thank you for sharing!
Cheers for watching! - Taz.
What KW do for the Manthey-Racing 911 is next level stuff...I would love to see what they could do for Superbikes.
That's some dank damping dood 👌
I like my street car adjusted to...feel like stock. LoL i guess a m3 already comes good stock. But at the smooth hot open track, you can go fairly stiff id say start at full stiffness
For a street car a softer suspension is better than a harder because you can drive faster over craters, bumps and speed bumps. If you want a soft ride that stiffens up in the corners get Öhlins R&T or the best money can buy Exe-TC fast road shocks.
Yeah..Think for street lowering srpings with sport shocks like kayaba new sr couple that with a larger sway bars should be good for daily drive
@@razif6916 I would't even lower for a daily driver.
@@jasonkillsformomy wouldnt it depend on the car and how much youre lowering it?
@@arcanevoid9199 Sure, but some sport cars are already low enough for bad roads and speed bumps. Some are so low you need a nose lift system and even then you barely make it.
To a point... I have MCS 2-way remotes on my 718 GT4 and there is a fine line between too soft (where the car feels like it is riding on the springs) and too hard to where you start to loose compliance (at least for CA roads).
Not sure on KW, but on my MCS's, while there are 18 clicks of adjustment on both compression AND rebound, I have found that there is only two clicks on either side that will make the car too firm and over damped OR too soft and underdamped.
Granted I also have the added adjustment of canister pressure, but I just set that to the recommended setting.
how often do you change these dampers and absorbers for everyday use. Coming from a stock, I have no idea.
why kw v3 sportclub is not street legal, is there any reasonable reason, now i am in situation to have to buy v2 kit, legalize it and then replace it with v3 because nobody would check serial number on dampers
A rough rule of thumb may be high speed adjustment for the wheel control and low speed for the chassis/body control?
high force opens valve and dampers travel faster, on low force that valve is closed and dampers travel slow
@@makantahi3731
If you reconsider that order, you may then understand the operating principle of the hydraulic damper.
Hint, start with velocity.
@@gordowg1wg145 they told you that there is no speed of car just force on damper, i have v3 clubsport and in manual is explained how it works, do you have it or you just use common sense
@@makantahi3731
I use years of experience as an actual Automotive Engineer.
Perhaps you should re-read your "manual", as it is you're just digging a deeper hole because it's absolutely clear you have no idea.
BTW, the "speed" and "velocity" I mentioned earlier is that of the compression or extension of the damper shaft within the damper body - NOT the vehicle speed.
That's another hint, BTW.
@@gordowg1wg145 you are full of hints, apply some of on you, there is no high /low speed of car, just force on damper that can travel faster or slower, longer or shorter, do you automotive engineer understand that ,
damping, :)
It's damping, not dampening! lol
Can we get a clubsport for 370z KW!
Thought he said rare butthole before I realized he said rabbit hole
What if your dampers are shocks?
You do you on that front. Despite the mention the name is probably the least important part - Taz.
Did anyone mishear "rabbit hole" as "rare butthole?"
this guy isnt a good rep for K&W not the sharpest tool in the shed.
i learned from the best dampener tuner ever @hertlife from hoonigan lol