If you're looking to buy the paints or miniatures used in this video then check out Warlord Games using my affiliates link! store.warlordgames.com?aff=7
First painting tutorial i’ve seen of yours and i have to say it was excellent compared to most, gives you all of the information you need in a well structured and easy to follow tutorial 100% model time, many thanks subbed
Sweet painting tutorial, I've been trying to choose over bolt action or flames of war. I have the flames of war starting set, but I hate the forces and I kind of hate the squad bases, and the scale just doesn't tickle my fancy. I love seeing your bolt action tutorials, and generally I'm a warhammer guy when it comes to miniatures (also a ww2 buff), so this kind of thing is right up my alley. Thanks man, I'm going for a british para army either choice :D
I'm very much the same, FoW is fine for tanks but becomes very fiddly at an infantry level. Bolt Action is a good balance of scale between tanks and infantry in my opinion.
Halfway through painting my Airborne, not as good as yours but not far off if it wasn’t for your tutorial my models would not look as good keep up the good work and Thanks
Absolutely love your work. Out of curiosity could you do a tutorial on painting miniatures from the Black Powder range from Warlord Games, particularily the American War of Independence line?
More of these War Gamer! I've a bunch of sets of historical-military based models that I would love for you to cover. These videos lately have been very useful. Maybe one on Confederate/Union soldiers, or British Redcoats later?
I've never really dipped my toe into the pre-ww1 side of historical wargaming so it's not something I'm particularly familiar with. I will however keep it in mind when devising my future tutorials. :)
Following this method carefully and first time using army painter paints. I must say I may have a bad batch but coverage and pigment if these paints are far from good. Will look to my citadel for close matches and use them.
@@PeteTheWargamer I shaked them to death but still very thin. I've paused with them for now and ordered 8mm stainless steel ball bearing to add to them.
Do you use a wet palette? I find that they can become a little too thin when on a wet palette, but I reduce the amount of water in the foam pad and it helped a lot.
When putting ink on the jacket You say to use dark tone ink but the side banner lists this as strong tone ink - is there a difference and which one did you use please - Thank you ☺️
I just got Barbarian flesh and I much prefer it to Cadian flesh tone from GW, but I found it to be extremely transparent and I shook it but still took 4-5 thin coats for a ok coverage, but perhaps not shaken enough? Or, would it be better to apply some thin layers of tanned flesh first and then a few thin layers of barbarian flesh? Any help would be greatly appreciated Cheers mate
Hey mate, how did you base this? The base looks slightly different to the colours you used in your tutorial. The grass looks like you’ve used maybe 4mm to start and then added 2mm to get height variation
When in doubt just make a google search and look at your own paints. The "Dakka Dakka - Paint Range Compatibility Chart" is also a great help. Look it up on google
Since they don't sell Vallejo paints or army painter at my local hobby shop are there citidel substitutes. the main resaon is I don't like online shopping
After the strong or soft tone I was always under the impression that they dried shiny is this incorrect or do you matt varnish after this stage......great video by the way
It's difficult to quantify, it's by no means an easy past time but it is one that does get much easier with time and practice. But my best advice is to give it a go! Hopefully tutorials like mine will give you some pointers to help you along.
This is 28mm scale, sometimes it can be up to 4 hours for your first type of mini, then once you keep doing that same type of model (what I mean is, say I did a british paratrooper for the first time, and then kept doing more british paratroopers) then you can get it down to about 2 hours, and then finally half an hour. But trust me, when your painting, time isn't on your mind. Nor does it need to be.
Drybrushing is a great technique if you want to apply 'messy' things like dust and dirt or if you're looking to paint your miniatures quickly. This does come at a cost though, drybrushing often gives you a slightly dusty finish that isn't quite as clean cut as a highlight. Highlights take a bit more time but the finished result is better in my opinion. It's just matter of personal taste really.
![Easy Army Painting: Bolt Action Canadians Made Simple! [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sMJbrCxjHu4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Easy Army Painting: Bolt Action Canadians Made Simple! [How I Paint Things]](/img/tr.png)
If you're looking to buy the paints or miniatures used in this video then check out Warlord Games using my affiliates link!
store.warlordgames.com?aff=7
First painting tutorial i’ve seen of yours and i have to say it was excellent compared to most, gives you all of the information you need in a well structured and easy to follow tutorial 100% model time, many thanks subbed
This is brilliant - cheers! I wouldn't have thought of starting the jacket with the desert yellow colour...!
Super job. First you help me with tanks, now British paras. Not to sound too greedy, how about Fallschirmjager?
Sweet painting tutorial, I've been trying to choose over bolt action or flames of war. I have the flames of war starting set, but I hate the forces and I kind of hate the squad bases, and the scale just doesn't tickle my fancy. I love seeing your bolt action tutorials, and generally I'm a warhammer guy when it comes to miniatures (also a ww2 buff), so this kind of thing is right up my alley. Thanks man, I'm going for a british para army either choice :D
I'm very much the same, FoW is fine for tanks but becomes very fiddly at an infantry level. Bolt Action is a good balance of scale between tanks and infantry in my opinion.
Exactly what I thought, thanks man! Bolt action it is.
I have gone for flames of war personally
Thank you for this toutrial. Always dreaded painting the Camo. You make it nice and easy to follow. Thanks again pete
Got me into painting again
Crusted sore. Truly awesome name. Great skills there by the way mate.
Thank you, glad you liked it
Halfway through painting my Airborne, not as good as yours but not far off if it wasn’t for your tutorial my models would not look as good keep up the good work and Thanks
Starting up a Polish Airborne army, this is very helpful as I paint.
Absolutely love your work. Out of curiosity could you do a tutorial on painting miniatures from the Black Powder range from Warlord Games, particularily the American War of Independence line?
It's not something I've yet considered really, I still have so much BA stuff to get through. However I will keep Black Powder in mind for the future.
More of these War Gamer! I've a bunch of sets of historical-military based models that I would love for you to cover. These videos lately have been very useful. Maybe one on Confederate/Union soldiers, or British Redcoats later?
I've never really dipped my toe into the pre-ww1 side of historical wargaming so it's not something I'm particularly familiar with. I will however keep it in mind when devising my future tutorials. :)
Smashing it lately with these videos. Great work yet again!
Thank you very much :)
Following this method carefully and first time using army painter paints. I must say I may have a bad batch but coverage and pigment if these paints are far from good. Will look to my citadel for close matches and use them.
One tip if you're using Army Painter. Shake the bottles ALOT before using it.
@@PeteTheWargamer I shaked them to death but still very thin. I've paused with them for now and ordered 8mm stainless steel ball bearing to add to them.
Do you use a wet palette? I find that they can become a little too thin when on a wet palette, but I reduce the amount of water in the foam pad and it helped a lot.
Super stuff - excellent tutorial as always. And massively helpful!
Brilliant, thanks 🙏.
Lovely way of painting these fellas! :)
Excellent tutorial.
Nice work, mate. I like the gray primer too; was never a fan of matt black.
Since I discovered grey primers I've only ever used black primers for black armoured miniatures. Grey is much easier to paint over!
Great tutorial mate
Love the great work keep it up
Me: I want Duncan Rhodes.
Mum: We have Duncan Rhodes at home.
Duncan Rhodes at home...
Hi. Great video. Would Agrax Earthshade work instead of the Strong tone ink?
Thank you.
nice job
Outstanding
Thanks!
Hey Pete, which Color would you use to paint the British Airborne Jeep?
really helpful, thanks
You're welcome!
crikey! your really good
Great video can you tell me if all those colours are in the Mega Paint Set?
When putting ink on the jacket You say to use dark tone ink but the side banner lists this as strong tone ink - is there a difference and which one did you use please - Thank you ☺️
I just got Barbarian flesh and I much prefer it to Cadian flesh tone from GW, but I found it to be extremely transparent and I shook it but still took 4-5 thin coats for a ok coverage, but perhaps not shaken enough? Or, would it be better to apply some thin layers of tanned flesh first and then a few thin layers of barbarian flesh? Any help would be greatly appreciated Cheers mate
In the video he base coats with tanned flesh, and then highlights with barbarian flesh. I didn't have any problems following that
@@JamesHalsall87 Cheers mate
Hey mate, how did you base this?
The base looks slightly different to the colours you used in your tutorial. The grass looks like you’ve used maybe 4mm to start and then added 2mm to get height variation
Any possibility you could list the Vallejo equivalent paints that could be used?
When in doubt just make a google search and look at your own paints.
The "Dakka Dakka - Paint Range Compatibility Chart" is also a great help. Look it up on google
Hi Loved the tutorial . one question if you can answer I am new to inks when you use them do you take of any surplus/pooling areas cheers
If the wash pools, take a fairly dry brush and use that to soak up the excess that had gathered. The excess should wick up into brush.
Annnnnnd subbed
Welcome aboard!
Crusted Sore. Farrow and Ball. I don't think so.
Since they don't sell Vallejo paints or army painter at my local hobby shop are there citidel substitutes. the main resaon is I don't like online shopping
After the strong or soft tone I was always under the impression that they dried shiny is this incorrect or do you matt varnish after this stage......great video by the way
Steve Campbell if you use the stuff in the bottles it doesn't tend to have the shine. The stuff in the tins will leave the glossy finish.
Cheers i'll have to get some bottles then, thanks for the prompt reply
Much easier to paint then Fallschirmjager.
how hard is it to start painting wargames
It's difficult to quantify, it's by no means an easy past time but it is one that does get much easier with time and practice. But my best advice is to give it a go! Hopefully tutorials like mine will give you some pointers to help you along.
Ok i will try. Thanks
one more thing how big are the bolt action figurines and how long for a figurine to be completed painting and stuff
This is 28mm scale, sometimes it can be up to 4 hours for your first type of mini, then once you keep doing that same type of model (what I mean is, say I did a british paratrooper for the first time, and then kept doing more british paratroopers) then you can get it down to about 2 hours, and then finally half an hour. But trust me, when your painting, time isn't on your mind. Nor does it need to be.
everything looks to bright, I think it needs dulling down a bi, also the mug should be brown, still a very good paint job well done!!!
Mugs were white with a blue rim in the early years of the war, the brown ones appeared around DDay
why do you not dry brush some areas?
Drybrushing is a great technique if you want to apply 'messy' things like dust and dirt or if you're looking to paint your miniatures quickly. This does come at a cost though, drybrushing often gives you a slightly dusty finish that isn't quite as clean cut as a highlight. Highlights take a bit more time but the finished result is better in my opinion. It's just matter of personal taste really.