I've recently done this. My room is cold, the window always has condensation during the colder months. I done this and woke up without any condensation, the room retained the heat. Fantastic.
Another tip when applying this seasonal window insulation as most companies call it now over here showing its not so permanent nature my tip is to wear gloves when handling the clear sheet otherwise you will end up with fingerprints on the inside that you can't wipe away.
This stuff is magic. I used a different brand, but equally simple to apply and seriously reduced my fuel bills. I love it. It is great fun to put up, because, once you shrink it with the hot air it is always amazing to see the finished result. I used one of those blow heaters, which was obviously wider and I think a better idea than a hair dryer. The trick is to try and heat it all gently and evenly, but it is simple enough to do. I got a couple of those flat cardboard thermometers that show the temperature as different coloured bands and taped one on the inside of the glass and one on the plastic, the one touching the window is showing 15 degrees, and the inside one is showing 18 degrees, so there's 3 degrees of difference! I had a really cold bedroom, and problems therein with condensation and starting to notice a damp smell in the cupboards, so I installed this stuff and like magic, the room is comfortably warmer and the condensation problem is gone as is the smell of damp that I was worrying about. Brilliant stuff and very cheap solution too!. I ended up carrying on and doing the whole house for the winter. The original windows have stayed good for probably three years now, but they are not cat proof and my cat has clawed holes in some places, but it is cheap and easy to replace.
These days we are retired on good pensions living in a double-glazed home but years ago I lived in drafty badly insulated flats with ill-fitting single glazed windows. I got used to packing the frames with strips of newspaper to reduce the drafts and "double-glazing" the windows using kitchen cling film. It really works and everyone living in a single-glazed rented flat should do this before the winter comes.
Thanks... good to know what other products are out there. In Australia we only have this one but I know in the US/Canada they have a wide range of products to choose from and they are relatively inexpensive. Thanks for the UK perspective and understand the tricky corner issue ...but you need to have it all sealed ...still air is the insulator here and if there is a bit of air movement it won't be as effective. Hope it has kept you warm this winter,
did this myself, as I live in the UK I couldn't find the exact brand shown here but I found a similar product called stormguard film from ScrewFix, if like me you have a very big gap between the window and the outside frame you might need to stick the tape on the inside frame, i.e. at a 90 degree angle to the window pane, when I did this I found it quite hard to the tape all the way into the corners. Just thought I should let you know if you need to do it that way. Great Video :)
Thank you so much for this video! I had a nightmare of a draught coming in the bedroom window, so ordered this insulation film. Followed your detailed instructions, and cannot believe the difference! Again, thank you for giving me a clue as to proper use of the film. :).
Hi, love how videos keep a moment in time. I didn't do the whole frame even though you are exactly right ..it would eliminate the draught problem (and these timber sash windows are quite tricky to draught-seal) 1.) I like to be able to open the window occasionally - even in winter - to vent the room as this room is a bit stuffy 2.) I like to leave it there all year rather than take it down for Summer. I know in Cold climates it is just used for winter 'weatherisation' Thanks for your comments,
Using a spoon to bond it to the tape and scissors is better than a lot of other how to's that I've seen. They use an exact knife to trim and then I see comments that they damaged paintwork.
I bought one of these kits years ago. I thought it was a great idea & I was impressed about how strong the tape was, until I realised that the system really wasn't workable for modern mass-produced aluminium windows, as the window hardware got in the way of where you were supposed to apply the plastic sheet. When I realised it wouldn't work & tried to remove the plastic, the sheeting came off with some struggle, but the adhesive got a good grip of my hair & clothing. Some years later, the adhesive is still stuck to my window frame with an attractive layer of dust, which also won't come off. We live & learn lol
Yeah ... the mass produced aluminium windows are a nightmare all around and unless you build a frame around them to take to insulation film this stuff is not going to work. Sorry about the constant reminder of that on the windows and the stickiest sticky tape in your hair. Good tip to remind people of. Thanks
I don't like wasting money or repeating myself each year I made inside re-useable cold weather / storm windows... so.. I bought thin wood trim, made frames that fit over the whole window area, I use staple gun and glue to hold corners, the plastic once in place will give strong frame support. ok lightly sand the side that will be facing room. next stain the frames to match your window frame wood. place plastic film on a table or clean hard floor, place your frames sanded side down on plastic film, cut your plastic so its got enough extra to wrap over your frame and its the back of frame your going to put the double stick tape on. ok attach plastic and trim as per box directions. use blow dryer to tighten to frame. my next step is to add felt strip trim or weather-stripping the whole back of frame. [this helps make a draft free connection] ok there are several ways to attach frame to your window > my way is to use 1 inch squares of clear packing tape and evenly place around frame starting 2 inch from corners. [this protects thin film] so for a 2x3 foot window I would have 3 top & bottom and 3 or 4 on sides. while holding frame in place [2nd person comes in handy] drill pilot holes through storm fame and into window frame. now put wingnut assemble into each pilot hole area.[add a tiny felt washer so wingnut doesn't tear tape] now you have a re-useable cold weather frame you can put up / take down easily each year. usually most curtains hide the majority of wing nuts from view.
Works well at keeping the cool inside your house as long as there is no sun hitting the windows - this will make your house a hot-box and you need to shade the windows. Once the heat is inside it, this film act as an insulator and you will keep that heat in.
Absolutely. You still need to draught-proof your windows with this type of application unless you want to do the whole window and not be able to open it at all during the winter.
It's a bit trickier with the sliding timber sash windows to do the top but you can put it on the outside of the top window - it is at slightly higher risk of being punctured by fast moving bird with a sharp beak but should be OK, esp if you have fly-screens.
@marlukcz - Hi, I've seen windows that have this plastic on them for over 15 years and it's still in great condition. The double sided sticky temporary tape does yellow over time, but it is not designed to be there forever. The permanent tape is a much better product but only good if you want to leave the film up ..permanently. I recommend cleaning any window, and this window film with a micro-fibre window cleaning cloth (available at most hardware shops) and water. Don't need to go fancy brand.
+Chris Dawes the beauty of this stuff is the fact it shrinks to make a tight taut window so you can barely see it. With standard thick clear plastic you might get better insulation but it would be a bit hard to get that really taut finish. Worth a try perhaps. let me know how you go.
No noise reduction. For this you need a vacuum or a gas in the space between the two layers of glass/plastic film. Double glazing is expensive but helps with noise. Also draught proofing the windows and doors can make a huge difference. Good luck.
Great Video - you're clearly in full nesting mode :-) I'm interested to know why you put the plastic just on the sash and not on the outer box frame? This would insulate against all draughts? But then again I guess your cold weather isn't as severe as it is pom-land!
Thank you, does it matter if the cellophane goes over window handles, and touches them? I have Crittalls (steel very thin frames, with slightly sticky out brass handles). Though there is a wooden frame round the whole edge, so planning to go from edge to edge on the frame, and not be able to open the windows in winter at all, but the handles stick out a little bit further than the frame does (if that all makes sense?) Just noticed date, and realised your 'tummy' is now a ten year old child :)
Hi Jessica - ideally you don't wan't it to touch but you could do one window and see how it works. You'll know if it's doing its job if you don't get condensation on the window. The important thing is that it's ALL FULLY SEALED so no air movement in the window space. So if you can get that I suspect it would be all good. Good luck and yes ... the bump has just turned 11! I really need to do some more videos or get the 11 y/o to start managing the channel!
Still air is the insulator here. Not the plastic. Double glazing works in much the same way trapping a layer of still air between the 2 panes of glass. Glass might have slightly better insulation (even through it is still very poor) but this works a treat.
Yeah, it is tricky if you can't get at all 4 sides of the window frame. You could try doing it on the outside of the window. It's pretty robust stuff even though it looks flimsy.
Sadly not. It will stop the humid air in your home condensing on the windows but the humidity is still there. For that you must a.) ventilate when you can by using extractor fans in bathrooms, kitchen etc. and opening windows when it's NOT TOO COLD! b.) avoid generating too much moisture in the house such as hanging washing to dry c.) open windows when possible but NOT while you're heating. That's a waste of heat!
Does the thickness of the plastic sheet make much of a difference? Looking at 150gsm vs 1000gsm. Big price difference, but would it make a big difference to insulation? Or is more about simply trapping that space of air between??
It's more the wear and tear. The thicker sheet will last MUCH longer, thinner almost seasonal. I used the thicker product n Australia on the inside and it's still there 15 years on! The thinner stuff is good as a 'weatherised'. I understand in the US/Canada this mis used to wrap around the outside of windows to stop draughts AND insulate the window a bit. Each winter season people use a new batch! I use mine purely to insulate the window. What are you wanting to achieve? Good luck.
OK hon, never mind, I found something pretty much the same, it's designed for winter drafts but should work just as well for summer use, I only wish they sold Renshade here in the US, seems you Aussie's are pretty damm good at finding simple solutions that actually work!.
For noise reduction you need partial vacuum as noise can't travel through a vacuum. So this won't make a significant difference to noise reduction ..a little bit better but not a lot.
If you attach this to the inside of the window does any of the condensation run out the bottom and therefore damage the tape and plastic?? And is there anything else I can use instead of purchasing this exact product?? TIA💖
No. That's the beauty of it. It should stop all that condensation just like good double glazing. You could try bubble warp. Cut to size and simple stick, with a light spray of water, to the flat-side to the window. Each bubble is a little double 'glazed' unit! Good luck
Hello there, I live in the UK and was wondering what product you are using in this video. I purchased some shrink fit film but soon found out that it did not shrink to the window like in your video. If anybody from the UK could post a link to the correct product that is being using in the video that would be a great help. Thanks
+Roni Sidhu sorry can't help on the UK side but i ordered a type of 'window insulation film' from the US and online super stores (I think you know the one). It's heat shrink stuff as well - mightn't last for years as it's designed as a seasonal solution. Let me know if you find a UK product and I can update.
That is a down side - you can get 2 types of tape. One that removes easily but does;t last as long and the other that is almost forever. Sorry for the 2 year delay in my answer! Just noticed your question.
I would like to use this excellent product for my motorhome which has single pane windows but the problem is that some of the windows have a latch to open the window that sticks out a bit at the bottom. I assume it is not possible to fit on those type of windows??
Thank you! Though not clear about the air gap needed. In the document it says you need a gap of 10-20mm of air insulation, but when its stuck to the window there is no gap or less gap than that?
This looks good and easy to do. Problem is that people report that the double-sided tape leaves marks when you remove it. And, you have to buy a new set every year. If you remove it, you can only throw it away. In the long term it is probably cheaper if you have the latest heat-insulated windows installed.
YEs .. it does. I solve that by buying the high quality film and only putting it on once. I know this is different to how it's used in North America. We have a tape in Australia which is classed as 'rental' tape meaning it's not as sticky and easier to be removed.
This feedback from the manufacturers of this particular product. It's NOT Stormguard. 'We know nothing about the "Stormguard" product, and this window insulation system is unrelated to anything produced by Stormguard. The ClearComfort membrane is in the polyolefin family, that is to say it is a simple multi-layered polyethylene. There is no vinyl in the tape or the membrane, and there is no off-gassing before, during or after installation. It is UV stable and is completely safe to use.'
Sure can. Just with regular window cleaner or a soft window cleaning cloth. In the US and North America it's used as a wrap around 'weatheriser' (for draught-proofing mainly) for outside the house so you'd replace it every year (and it' relatively cheap). In Australia I use it as a type of insulation for my windows and have had the same lot on for many years. It's great. Hope this helps.
Very interesting and informative BUT here in the US there is close to ZERO interest in any kind of window retro-fit. Want double-pane windows?, sure tons of contractors who will do that, bring your checkbook, it will cost you around $7-9 thousand dollars!. Can you recommend a plastic that Amazon sells here in the US that I can use?, here in Florida summers are brutal as are the electric bills, it's not possible to buy anything AU due to shipping costs, thank you in advance, Barry.
Thermally, but not soundproofing as you need to take air out (vacuum) and use different kind of thickness of glass, plastic, and/or laminated glass to reduce sound (some sounds are more difficult to reduce than others).
+pjcd1961 Good morning, I am interested, you seem to know your stuff! Would you have any suggestion to reduce sound without spending too much, let's say 250 USD per window?
Hmmm ...tricky. For sound not to travel you need as little air as possible in the space between the two layers of glass . Normally double glazing does OK but it's not a vacuum in-between the glass (the pressure between the panes would be too great ..although they may be some reduced air and Some commercial windows filled the space with argon which reduces sound that more again. This stuff doesn't cut it at all. Wonder if anyone else has any ideas?
It's a good demo however the important part has been missed out. How do you do the top window? There is no frame at the bottom to attach the tape to as the lower window covers it.. I have the same windows and am thinking of glazing the whole frame to over come this problem and avoiding latch fittings. I àm 3 floors above ground so thats a no no. From the window pain to the outer frame is a 70mm. Will this work? .TIA
It's tricky - you can cover the whole window frame but the 70mm gap means you still might get some convection currents so might not be as 'insulative' as you like but easier. You could also try bubble wrap on the top window (ugly yes but works a treat and comes down in Summer).
Yeah, when DIY double glazing double-hung windows you generally have to do the outside of the top window to avoid the latch and keep the ideal gap of 6 to 20mm.
Aluminium windows are not great as they are cold all around the frame and the single glazing. Depends on your budget. There's Magnetite (a place in Canberra sells it) and I've seen (but haven't made a GIY video yet) some great secondary frames with perspex that people have build that fit into their window frame and fixed it there for the winter. You can't open the window ... which is a problem though so you need to be good at ventilating the house in other ways. TO be honest .. I'm a BIG fan of bubble-wrap. Cut to size and stick it FLAT SIDE TO THE WINDOW. Every bubble is a little bit of still air which insulates your window. And you don't need glue or sticky tape as the condensation/water on the inside of the window will hold it fast. Yes, it's blurry to look out but on South, West and East windows this is great. And north facing windows as well but I'd take it off for the day time on the North facing windows so as to make the most of the sunshine coming in.
what about when the handles to open stick out from the window? will they burst the plastic? will it still work if i dont use the hairdryer (i dont care how it looks just need insulation)
Yes, the handles can be tricky. Some handles screw off and then you can apply the film and screw back on. This is worth it if you are leaving the film on for many years as I have. And it will work even if you don't use the hairdryer. All the hairdryer does is 'shrink' it so it's not all wrinkly. Just make sure there are no gaps or holes. You want the plastic to be completely sealed. Good luck.
I just added this to my windows but found that condensation no appears on the film itself, rather than the window. Is this normal or have I put it up incorrectly?
Is it completely air-tight and completely stuck down around the edges? If not, any movement of air in the gap between the glass and the plastic will mean that it's not going to be an insulator.
@@GIYGreenItYourself Well, I'm pretty sure its air tight because the window itself is completely dry, whereas before the plastic it would be dripping with condensation. Now, the condensation only appears on the room-side of the plastic. If that makes sense.
I might be dumb but i'm still confused. when you cut the plastic out to be 10cm bigger on each side, do you stick the plastic with the edges exactly in line with the tape? or do you tape it so the 10cm go past the edge of the tape?
Not dumb. It's there to give you some extra to play with if you put the film on at a wonky angle as it ensures you will have enough to cover all sides of the frame. You can trim off the excess when stuck down and tight as a drum.
You don't stick it directly to the windows. There's a gap between the glass and the plastic. It's this layer of still air that is the insulator for keepin' da heat/cool in the house.
+Paul Hayes I know. Not perfect and if I could buy this stuff cheaply I'd put it over the whole frame for winter and take it off in Summer. I just draught-proof where I can.
You shouldn't do get condensation unless you live in a very cold house (or a very humid house with lots of moisture in the air from cooking/drying/showers etc). If you installed it on a humid day there may be moisture trapped in the gap. Wait for a dry day and lift a corner of the film to let the air dry out and then tape it back up carefully. I've also noticed that if the plastic is not completely sealed airtight you might also get condensation as some air will get into the gap between window and plastic film. Good luck with it. Let me know how you go.
I wanted more information about what surface to adhere to. Am I supposed to use all surfaces that are parallel to the window pane? What about at the bottom? What if I only have a sill?
Brendon, If you only have a sill at the bottom it is tricky to adhere the film with a good seal. You could try installing some beading to the sill to provide a better seal.
@@GIYGreenItYourself I'm in rented accommodation. insulation film is already risky enough. I'm simply not going to do that window as it also has nowhere to stick at the top (uneven surfaces). Thank you for your response
Have you tried good old bubble wrap? The flat side of the bubble wrap will stick to the condensed side of the window just with a spray of water. I'm not going to lie ... it's not stylish but it really works. Each bubble is an insulated unit! Cheap and good for cold rentals in winter.
No. This is just insulation. Soundproofing needs to be as close to a vacuum as possible or with the window cavity filled with a gas such as argon that assists in dampening sound. You could also try a product called 'Magnetite' - a perspex retrofit solution that attaches to your windows with magnets. That does seem to block out some noise. Goodluck.
i learned its better to wrap the entire window frame..air still get pass the weather stripping and corners of the window...during windy i day im able to see the film bulge in & out
+walker2006au Not well. You need to have a 8 - 16mm gap between film and glass for best insulation. Aluminium windows don't have that so you need to make up a frame and fit the plastic film to that. I think some one below has mentioned how to do that and when I get the time I'll make another GIY video on that. Good luck
It does work really well if it's applied properly - optimum gap between window pane and the film (about 8 - 16mm is optimum). And if you ventilate your house well when you can during winter that keep the level of moisture down. Let me know how it goes.
Weird. The tape might be old? Have you taken off the protective paper from the one side of it? It's normally sure sticky so I think that might be it. Let me know how you get on.
That's the tricky bit if it's a window you open. If you don't open the window ... wrap it all. It you open it I put the plastic film on the outside on the top wind. Not as long lasting as it's open to the elements but works the same!
I actually put it on the outside of this window knowing that it might get a bit weathered. Sash windows are tricky but you could also try the bubble wrap on the top.
It just pulls off the tape. Depending on what tape you use you might need to use metho to get the tape off the window. If you need to take the tape off the window, I recommend using the temporary tape, not the permanent tape.
One thing, it's quite hard to clean, maintain in shape for a little longer, isn't it? I understand it's meant for those coldest days of the year in your areas but, well, some might think it could last forever :)
I've seen it last for over 15 years. Clean with a soft micro fibre cloth and if it looses it's shape give it another blast with the hair-dryer. But you're right, it's not the strongest product in the world!
GIYGreenItYourself Wow! 15 years! It's quite a result! I was thinking like any possible way of cleaning something must be done with use of water! Seems like I'm not enough of a DIY guy :) Cheers!
Brilliant idea. I did the same on the double glass window from the outside. The *heating cost did drop 30%* for me :-) Make sure you stretch the clear foil well before applying more sticky tape. First, small bits of sticky tape on the edges, and stretching out part by part. Then you seal the foil on all edges. It's also good to correct the folds and position, which is possible if you do the small bits of sticky tape first. That clear foil is for gift wrapping. Or flower wrapping. It's not that stretchy, but very clear. It's about 1 USD per sqm. Very cheap and does save money on heating :-)
@@GIYGreenItYourself it reduced draft coming from the windows however other areas needed to be looked at like door gaps and sadly the walls are thin in the flat so I'm guessing no insulation in there at all.
I've recently done this. My room is cold, the window always has condensation during the colder months. I done this and woke up without any condensation, the room retained the heat. Fantastic.
So pleased to hear this made a difference. Really great.
Sounds like a recipe for mold if that condensation is now landing on your walls
@@xAKIMBOCURLYx Use a dehumidifier 🇬🇧
Another tip when applying this seasonal window insulation as most companies call it now over here showing its not so permanent nature my tip is to wear gloves when handling the clear sheet otherwise you will end up with fingerprints on the inside that you can't wipe away.
This stuff is magic. I used a different brand, but equally simple to apply and seriously reduced my fuel bills. I love it.
It is great fun to put up, because, once you shrink it with the hot air it is always amazing to see the finished result.
I used one of those blow heaters, which was obviously wider and I think a better idea than a hair dryer.
The trick is to try and heat it all gently and evenly, but it is simple enough to do.
I got a couple of those flat cardboard thermometers that show the temperature as different coloured bands and taped one on the inside of the glass and one on the plastic, the one touching the window is showing 15 degrees, and the inside one is showing 18 degrees, so there's 3 degrees of difference!
I had a really cold bedroom, and problems therein with condensation and starting to notice a damp smell in the cupboards, so I installed this stuff and like magic, the room is comfortably warmer and the condensation problem is gone as is the smell of damp that I was worrying about.
Brilliant stuff and very cheap solution too!. I ended up carrying on and doing the whole house for the winter. The original windows have stayed good for probably three years now, but they are not cat proof and my cat has clawed holes in some places, but it is cheap and easy to replace.
These days we are retired on good pensions living in a double-glazed home but years ago I lived in drafty badly insulated flats with ill-fitting single glazed windows. I got used to packing the frames with strips of newspaper to reduce the drafts and "double-glazing" the windows using kitchen cling film. It really works and everyone living in a single-glazed rented flat should do this before the winter comes.
Great idea. It's the same principle! thanks for the tip.
Omg you’re adorable. Please teach me everything. Nothing sounds overwhelming the way you describe it. 🥰
Thanks Laura. I'm pleased to hear it. I'll be sure to make more when I get in control of my day job. Keep watching and doing.
Thanks... good to know what other products are out there. In Australia we only have this one but I know in the US/Canada they have a wide range of products to choose from and they are relatively inexpensive. Thanks for the UK perspective and understand the tricky corner issue ...but you need to have it all sealed ...still air is the insulator here and if there is a bit of air movement it won't be as effective.
Hope it has kept you warm this winter,
did this myself, as I live in the UK I couldn't find the exact brand shown here but I found a similar product called stormguard film from ScrewFix, if like me you have a very big gap between the window and the outside frame you might need to stick the tape on the inside frame, i.e. at a 90 degree angle to the window pane, when I did this I found it quite hard to the tape all the way into the corners. Just thought I should let you know if you need to do it that way. Great Video :)
Thank you so much for this video! I had a nightmare of a draught coming in the bedroom window, so ordered this insulation film. Followed your detailed instructions, and cannot believe the difference! Again, thank you for giving me a clue as to proper use of the film. :).
If it was draughty before how did this fix it? Surely the draught would be from bad window seals or fitting?
Hi, love how videos keep a moment in time. I didn't do the whole frame even though you are exactly right ..it would eliminate the draught problem (and these timber sash windows are quite tricky to draught-seal)
1.) I like to be able to open the window occasionally - even in winter - to vent the room as this room is a bit stuffy
2.) I like to leave it there all year rather than take it down for Summer. I know in Cold climates it is just used for winter 'weatherisation'
Thanks for your comments,
Wonderful sweet explanation 👌
Thanks for sharing with us 😊
Using a spoon to bond it to the tape and scissors is better than a lot of other how to's that I've seen. They use an exact knife to trim and then I see comments that they damaged paintwork.
I bought one of these kits years ago. I thought it was a great idea & I was impressed about how strong the tape was, until I realised that the system really wasn't workable for modern mass-produced aluminium windows, as the window hardware got in the way of where you were supposed to apply the plastic sheet. When I realised it wouldn't work & tried to remove the plastic, the sheeting came off with some struggle, but the adhesive got a good grip of my hair & clothing. Some years later, the adhesive is still stuck to my window frame with an attractive layer of dust, which also won't come off. We live & learn lol
Yeah ... the mass produced aluminium windows are a nightmare all around and unless you build a frame around them to take to insulation film this stuff is not going to work. Sorry about the constant reminder of that on the windows and the stickiest sticky tape in your hair. Good tip to remind people of. Thanks
Acetone will get rid of residue :)
I don't like wasting money or repeating myself each year I made inside re-useable cold weather / storm windows... so.. I bought thin wood trim, made frames that fit over the whole window area, I use staple gun and glue to hold corners, the plastic once in place will give strong frame support. ok lightly sand the side that will be facing room. next stain the frames to match your window frame wood. place plastic film on a table or clean hard floor, place your frames sanded side down on plastic film, cut your plastic so its got enough extra to wrap over your frame and its the back of frame your going to put the double stick tape on. ok attach plastic and trim as per box directions. use blow dryer to tighten to frame. my next step is to add felt strip trim or weather-stripping the whole back of frame. [this helps make a draft free connection] ok there are several ways to attach frame to your window > my way is to use 1 inch squares of clear packing tape and evenly place around frame starting 2 inch from corners. [this protects thin film] so for a 2x3 foot window I would have 3 top & bottom and 3 or 4 on sides. while holding frame in place [2nd person comes in handy] drill pilot holes through storm fame and into window frame. now put wingnut assemble into each pilot hole area.[add a tiny felt washer so wingnut doesn't tear tape] now you have a re-useable cold weather frame you can put up / take down easily each year. usually most curtains hide the majority of wing nuts from view.
Why dont ypu just make a video👍
Very useful, thanks! You're a great presenter.
Excellent video with good clear instructions.
Works well at keeping the cool inside your house as long as there is no sun hitting the windows - this will make your house a hot-box and you need to shade the windows. Once the heat is inside it, this film act as an insulator and you will keep that heat in.
Absolutely. You still need to draught-proof your windows with this type of application unless you want to do the whole window and not be able to open it at all during the winter.
It's a bit trickier with the sliding timber sash windows to do the top but you can put it on the outside of the top window - it is at slightly higher risk of being punctured by fast moving bird with a sharp beak but should be OK, esp if you have fly-screens.
@marlukcz - Hi, I've seen windows that have this plastic on them for over 15 years and it's still in great condition. The double sided sticky temporary tape does yellow over time, but it is not designed to be there forever. The permanent tape is a much better product but only good if you want to leave the film up ..permanently.
I recommend cleaning any window, and this window film with a micro-fibre window cleaning cloth (available at most hardware shops) and water. Don't need to go fancy brand.
would suggest getting thicker clear plastic from clark rubber... you'd get better noise reduction and temp reduction also.
+Chris Dawes the beauty of this stuff is the fact it shrinks to make a tight taut window so you can barely see it. With standard thick clear plastic you might get better insulation but it would be a bit hard to get that really taut finish. Worth a try perhaps. let me know how you go.
does it help against the noise, too? if not, is there anything else you cold recommend? THANK YOU!
No noise reduction. For this you need a vacuum or a gas in the space between the two layers of glass/plastic film. Double glazing is expensive but helps with noise. Also draught proofing the windows and doors can make a huge difference. Good luck.
@@GIYGreenItYourself Thank you so much!
Great Video - you're clearly in full nesting mode :-)
I'm interested to know why you put the plastic just on the sash and not on the outer box frame? This would insulate against all draughts? But then again I guess your cold weather isn't as severe as it is pom-land!
Thank you, does it matter if the cellophane goes over window handles, and touches them? I have Crittalls (steel very thin frames, with slightly sticky out brass handles). Though there is a wooden frame round the whole edge, so planning to go from edge to edge on the frame, and not be able to open the windows in winter at all, but the handles stick out a little bit further than the frame does (if that all makes sense?) Just noticed date, and realised your 'tummy' is now a ten year old child :)
Hi Jessica - ideally you don't wan't it to touch but you could do one window and see how it works. You'll know if it's doing its job if you don't get condensation on the window. The important thing is that it's ALL FULLY SEALED so no air movement in the window space. So if you can get that I suspect it would be all good.
Good luck and yes ... the bump has just turned 11! I really need to do some more videos or get the 11 y/o to start managing the channel!
Still air is the insulator here. Not the plastic. Double glazing works in much the same way trapping a layer of still air between the 2 panes of glass. Glass might have slightly better insulation (even through it is still very poor) but this works a treat.
Yeah, it is tricky if you can't get at all 4 sides of the window frame. You could try doing it on the outside of the window. It's pretty robust stuff even though it looks flimsy.
does it work as soundproof?
Great video, love it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, do you think this will help for reducing humidity?
Sadly not. It will stop the humid air in your home condensing on the windows but the humidity is still there. For that you must a.) ventilate when you can by using extractor fans in bathrooms, kitchen etc. and opening windows when it's NOT TOO COLD! b.) avoid generating too much moisture in the house such as hanging washing to dry c.) open windows when possible but NOT while you're heating. That's a waste of heat!
Does the thickness of the plastic sheet make much of a difference? Looking at 150gsm vs 1000gsm. Big price difference, but would it make a big difference to insulation? Or is more about simply trapping that space of air between??
It's more the wear and tear. The thicker sheet will last MUCH longer, thinner almost seasonal. I used the thicker product n Australia on the inside and it's still there 15 years on! The thinner stuff is good as a 'weatherised'. I understand in the US/Canada this mis used to wrap around the outside of windows to stop draughts AND insulate the window a bit. Each winter season people use a new batch! I use mine purely to insulate the window. What are you wanting to achieve? Good luck.
OK hon, never mind, I found something pretty much the same, it's designed for winter drafts but should work just as well for summer use, I only wish they sold Renshade here in the US, seems you Aussie's are pretty damm good at finding simple solutions that actually work!.
Love to know what it is and I can update the list.
wondering how effective this would also be for noise reduction from neighbours?
For noise reduction you need partial vacuum as noise can't travel through a vacuum. So this won't make a significant difference to noise reduction ..a little bit better but not a lot.
Nice information, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Lovely clear presentation, I'll give it a go, thanks x
If you attach this to the inside of the window does any of the condensation run out the bottom and therefore damage the tape and plastic??
And is there anything else I can use instead of purchasing this exact product?? TIA💖
No. That's the beauty of it. It should stop all that condensation just like good double glazing. You could try bubble warp. Cut to size and simple stick, with a light spray of water, to the flat-side to the window. Each bubble is a little double 'glazed' unit! Good luck
Very useful video, thank you!
Hello there, I live in the UK and was wondering what product you are using in this video. I purchased some shrink fit film but soon found out that it did not shrink to the window like in your video. If anybody from the UK could post a link to the correct product that is being using in the video that would be a great help.
Thanks
+Roni Sidhu sorry can't help on the UK side but i ordered a type of 'window insulation film' from the US and online super stores (I think you know the one). It's heat shrink stuff as well - mightn't last for years as it's designed as a seasonal solution. Let me know if you find a UK product and I can update.
Hi Ronni Wickes Seasonal Secondary Glazing Film
Fun vid. I love your enthusiasm!
Does the plastic need to stick the window glass when you use the hajr dryer ?
No - it's meant to have a good gap of between 6 - 12mm.
Good vid. Does the tape pull the paint off when you take it down (the tape not the plastic)
That is a down side - you can get 2 types of tape. One that removes easily but does;t last as long and the other that is almost forever. Sorry for the 2 year delay in my answer! Just noticed your question.
GIYGreenItYourself
NO WORRIES :) Thanks
I would like to use this excellent product for my motorhome which has single pane windows but the problem is that some of the windows have a latch to open the window that sticks out a bit at the bottom. I assume it is not possible to fit on those type of windows??
great video - has anyone tried comparing rolled film with acrylic or polycarbonate sheets?
not sure ... anyone?
Thank you! Though not clear about the air gap needed. In the document it says you need a gap of 10-20mm of air insulation, but when its stuck to the window there is no gap or less gap than that?
The film is actually stuck to the frames of the window not the actual glass itself. Hope that clears things up.
Is it soundproof as well?
Thank you so much, it's surely going to help a lot with my energy bill :)
This looks good and easy to do. Problem is that people report that the double-sided tape leaves marks when you remove it. And, you have to buy a new set every year. If you remove it, you can only throw it away. In the long term it is probably cheaper if you have the latest heat-insulated windows installed.
YEs .. it does. I solve that by buying the high quality film and only putting it on once. I know this is different to how it's used in North America. We have a tape in Australia which is classed as 'rental' tape meaning it's not as sticky and easier to be removed.
Good video!
Thanks!
Ok thats cool but you were working on a double hung sash how can you repeat that process to the top sash when you only have 3 sides to work with.
This feedback from the manufacturers of this particular product. It's NOT Stormguard.
'We know nothing about the "Stormguard" product, and this window insulation system is unrelated to anything produced by Stormguard.
The ClearComfort membrane is in the polyolefin family, that is to say it is a simple multi-layered polyethylene. There is no vinyl in the tape or the membrane, and there is no off-gassing before, during or after installation. It is UV stable and is completely safe to use.'
Can be cleaned the plastic? It seems very soft. BTW, after is has been installed, how many years it will last? or it needs to change every i.e year?
Sure can. Just with regular window cleaner or a soft window cleaning cloth. In the US and North America it's used as a wrap around 'weatheriser' (for draught-proofing mainly) for outside the house so you'd replace it every year (and it' relatively cheap). In Australia I use it as a type of insulation for my windows and have had the same lot on for many years. It's great. Hope this helps.
Very interesting and informative BUT here in the US there is close to ZERO interest in any kind of window retro-fit. Want double-pane windows?, sure tons of contractors who will do that, bring your checkbook, it will cost you around $7-9 thousand dollars!. Can you recommend a plastic that Amazon sells here in the US that I can use?, here in Florida summers are brutal as are the electric bills, it's not possible to buy anything AU due to shipping costs, thank you in advance, Barry.
duck and 3M both have window insulation film that will work
Thermally, but not soundproofing as you need to take air out (vacuum) and use different kind of thickness of glass, plastic, and/or laminated glass to reduce sound (some sounds are more difficult to reduce than others).
+pjcd1961 Good morning, I am interested, you seem to know your stuff! Would you have any suggestion to reduce sound without spending too much, let's say 250 USD per window?
Hmmm ...tricky. For sound not to travel you need as little air as possible in the space between the two layers of glass . Normally double glazing does OK but it's not a vacuum in-between the glass (the pressure between the panes would be too great ..although they may be some reduced air and Some commercial windows filled the space with argon which reduces sound that more again. This stuff doesn't cut it at all. Wonder if anyone else has any ideas?
@vettoorlijo - It just peels off ..you might need to use some white spirit or acetone to get rid of the sticky tape.
It's a good demo however the important part has been missed out. How do you do the top window? There is no frame at the bottom to attach the tape to as the lower window covers it.. I have the same windows and am thinking of glazing the whole frame to over come this problem and avoiding latch fittings. I àm 3 floors above ground so thats a no no. From the window pain to the outer frame is a 70mm. Will this work? .TIA
It's tricky - you can cover the whole window frame but the 70mm gap means you still might get some convection currents so might not be as 'insulative' as you like but easier. You could also try bubble wrap on the top window (ugly yes but works a treat and comes down in Summer).
Yeah, when DIY double glazing double-hung windows you generally have to do the outside of the top window to avoid the latch and keep the ideal gap of 6 to 20mm.
Hi! In Canberra too - what’s a good option for secondary glazing for aluminium framed windows?
Aluminium windows are not great as they are cold all around the frame and the single glazing. Depends on your budget. There's Magnetite (a place in Canberra sells it) and I've seen (but haven't made a GIY video yet) some great secondary frames with perspex that people have build that fit into their window frame and fixed it there for the winter. You can't open the window ... which is a problem though so you need to be good at ventilating the house in other ways.
TO be honest .. I'm a BIG fan of bubble-wrap. Cut to size and stick it FLAT SIDE TO THE WINDOW. Every bubble is a little bit of still air which insulates your window. And you don't need glue or sticky tape as the condensation/water on the inside of the window will hold it fast. Yes, it's blurry to look out but on South, West and East windows this is great. And north facing windows as well but I'd take it off for the day time on the North facing windows so as to make the most of the sunshine coming in.
Do it on the outside for the top window. I do talk about it but at the very end of the video.
what about sweating of the window/film
that would be condensation. Doesn't happen when you have it on as the temperature difference is not as great so no condensation.
Skyler, you can buy new windows with the money of mr. white
Cracked me up.
This was super helpful thank you 😊
Glad it was helpful!
THANKS from winter 2021!
You're welcome!
will it work if the plastic is applied directly to the glass?
No - there needs to be an air gap between plastic and glass
what about when the handles to open stick out from the window? will they burst the plastic? will it still work if i dont use the hairdryer (i dont care how it looks just need insulation)
Yes, the handles can be tricky. Some handles screw off and then you can apply the film and screw back on. This is worth it if you are leaving the film on for many years as I have. And it will work even if you don't use the hairdryer. All the hairdryer does is 'shrink' it so it's not all wrinkly. Just make sure there are no gaps or holes. You want the plastic to be completely sealed. Good luck.
I just added this to my windows but found that condensation no appears on the film itself, rather than the window. Is this normal or have I put it up incorrectly?
Is it completely air-tight and completely stuck down around the edges? If not, any movement of air in the gap between the glass and the plastic will mean that it's not going to be an insulator.
@@GIYGreenItYourself Well, I'm pretty sure its air tight because the window itself is completely dry, whereas before the plastic it would be dripping with condensation. Now, the condensation only appears on the room-side of the plastic. If that makes sense.
@@janml24 It just means you have loads of air condensed in your home? Do you dry wet washing and so on, that will do it.
Suggest a wallpaper edge roller instead of spoon.( cheap in Bunnings ).
I might be dumb but i'm still confused. when you cut the plastic out to be 10cm bigger on each side, do you stick the plastic with the edges exactly in line with the tape? or do you tape it so the 10cm go past the edge of the tape?
Not dumb. It's there to give you some extra to play with if you put the film on at a wonky angle as it ensures you will have enough to cover all sides of the frame. You can trim off the excess when stuck down and tight as a drum.
How long is that plastic supposed to last? Both with and without kids roaming about.
It's lasted on my windows for 15 years!
What does 3M heat saving 'film' do? You stick it down. Is that as effective as this?
You don't stick it directly to the windows. There's a gap between the glass and the plastic. It's this layer of still air that is the insulator for keepin' da heat/cool in the house.
What is GOI double glazing? Can we clean the plastic film the same as we do on windows? Thanks!
Just search for 'window film'. (GIY is just my business name). You can clean the windows with window spray and a soft cloth like any other window.
what about the top window thats letting the cold in?
+Paul Hayes I know. Not perfect and if I could buy this stuff cheaply I'd put it over the whole frame for winter and take it off in Summer. I just draught-proof where I can.
Do you still get small amounts of condensation on the window? (In between the window and plastic film)
You shouldn't do get condensation unless you live in a very cold house (or a very humid house with lots of moisture in the air from cooking/drying/showers etc). If you installed it on a humid day there may be moisture trapped in the gap. Wait for a dry day and lift a corner of the film to let the air dry out and then tape it back up carefully.
I've also noticed that if the plastic is not completely sealed airtight you might also get condensation as some air will get into the gap between window and plastic film.
Good luck with it. Let me know how you go.
Does this Work ?
how effective is this for cold?
my way is the best way....
I wanted more information about what surface to adhere to. Am I supposed to use all surfaces that are parallel to the window pane? What about at the bottom? What if I only have a sill?
Brendon, If you only have a sill at the bottom it is tricky to adhere the film with a good seal. You could try installing some beading to the sill to provide a better seal.
@@GIYGreenItYourself I'm in rented accommodation. insulation film is already risky enough. I'm simply not going to do that window as it also has nowhere to stick at the top (uneven surfaces). Thank you for your response
Have you tried good old bubble wrap? The flat side of the bubble wrap will stick to the condensed side of the window just with a spray of water. I'm not going to lie ... it's not stylish but it really works. Each bubble is an insulated unit! Cheap and good for cold rentals in winter.
awesome idea :) ... what about degradation in time? and what about cleaning?
Thank you for this video 💪👍👍
Does this method provide any soundproofing, if that's your goal?
No. This is just insulation. Soundproofing needs to be as close to a vacuum as possible or with the window cavity filled with a gas such as argon that assists in dampening sound. You could also try a product called 'Magnetite' - a perspex retrofit solution that attaches to your windows with magnets. That does seem to block out some noise. Goodluck.
i learned its better to wrap the entire window frame..air still get pass the weather stripping and corners of the window...during windy i day im able to see the film bulge in & out
you could tape the perimeter of the window to draught proof it and then put the plastic over the entire thing
Does this help to reduce a bit of noise?
Sadly no. You need a vacuum created for that.
How does this go with metal style sliding windows from the 90s? Don't think it's quite so easy..
+walker2006au Not well. You need to have a 8 - 16mm gap between film and glass for best insulation. Aluminium windows don't have that so you need to make up a frame and fit the plastic film to that. I think some one below has mentioned how to do that and when I get the time I'll make another GIY video on that. Good luck
Does this work for condisation? I have just applied a few but there was no cold weather yet. So iam really curious or this will work. Thanks!
It does work really well if it's applied properly - optimum gap between window pane and the film (about 8 - 16mm is optimum). And if you ventilate your house well when you can during winter that keep the level of moisture down. Let me know how it goes.
This was great ~ THANKS!
The film isn’t sticking on the tape, any tip please
Weird. The tape might be old? Have you taken off the protective paper from the one side of it? It's normally sure sticky so I think that might be it. Let me know how you get on.
I have several very mischievous cats. How does this stuff hold up when claws are involved?
Hmmm.... sorry to say but not well. it's good with poking and prodding but claws ...no good.
No but my friend who is playing the guitar will be very pleased to hear that he sounds like EC!
is this for heat insulation or sound insulation mam ??
Heat insulation.
How do you do the top sash?
That's the tricky bit if it's a window you open. If you don't open the window ... wrap it all. It you open it I put the plastic film on the outside on the top wind. Not as long lasting as it's open to the elements but works the same!
Thanks. That's a brilliant tip.
This is AWESOME !!!
Its so easy and SO CHEAP!!
To give credit where it's due--music is a cover of "Signe" from Eric Clapton's great "Unplugged" album!
Music to draught-proof to. There must be a good compilation album in that. I'll update credits although Eric is not playing! Shame
What about the top sash?
I actually put it on the outside of this window knowing that it might get a bit weathered. Sash windows are tricky but you could also try the bubble wrap on the top.
Great idea love it
You can put it on the outside for the upper window (stay watching past the credits and I do a quick pick-up on this info)
It just pulls off the tape. Depending on what tape you use you might need to use metho to get the tape off the window. If you need to take the tape off the window, I recommend using the temporary tape, not the permanent tape.
thank u for this video
it's really awesome
One thing, it's quite hard to clean, maintain in shape for a little longer, isn't it? I understand it's meant for those coldest days of the year in your areas but, well, some might think it could last forever :)
I've seen it last for over 15 years. Clean with a soft micro fibre cloth and if it looses it's shape give it another blast with the hair-dryer. But you're right, it's not the strongest product in the world!
GIYGreenItYourself Wow! 15 years! It's quite a result! I was thinking like any possible way of cleaning something must be done with use of water! Seems like I'm not enough of a DIY guy :) Cheers!
Brilliant idea. I did the same on the double glass window from the outside.
The *heating cost did drop 30%* for me :-)
Make sure you stretch the clear foil well before applying more sticky tape. First, small bits of sticky tape on the edges, and stretching out part by part. Then you seal the foil on all edges. It's also good to correct the folds and position, which is possible if you do the small bits of sticky tape first.
That clear foil is for gift wrapping. Or flower wrapping. It's not that stretchy, but very clear. It's about 1 USD per sqm. Very cheap and does save money on heating :-)
Brilliant idea. Thanks for sharing.
Send this to Gretta for her school lunch wrap
I purchased this on Amazon just now. My husband says it's a gimmick. At this point I'll try anything to help keep heat in and drafts at bay
No gimmick. If applied correctly with good air gab between window and film and an airtight seal around the frame. How did you go??
@@GIYGreenItYourself it reduced draft coming from the windows however other areas needed to be looked at like door gaps and sadly the walls are thin in the flat so I'm guessing no insulation in there at all.
Thank you so much! I did a pane and didn’t realise it was supposed to be bouncy to the touch. I thought it would cling to the window. Phew!
It's hard to tell from the product and there are other films that stick to the windows so I'm pleased it all worked!