I am 63 years old. I have installed many cartridges/stylus over the years on BIC, Technics, JVC, Thorens et. al. 1. Why does Rega not put white numerals, and segmented numerals, on the Tracking Force and Bias Adjustment pieces. For example, if the tracking forces for a Ortofon 2m Blue(which I bought) is recommended @ 1.8 grams, then those specific areas of the "knob and slider" should be marked for exact position. The "all black" aspect of the adjustment parts is hard to see in regular light and even more difficult with nothing but a 0-1-2, and that's it folks, designation. So where is 1.8 grams exactly on my "little" bias adjustment "nipple" and the Tracking Force Dial. I shouldn't have to count every little crevasse and ridge to get the number between 0-1 and then use simple division to see where it "May" need to be set! A $1000+ TT and brilliant minds making them with more than "difficult" adjustment pieces. WTF!
Thanks for this! So for the P2 with Carbon cartridge, tonearm has to be balanced first then place it back on the clip and make a 360 spin clockwise once?
Do you have to drop the stylus onto a scale to re-check the weight as I've seen some people do. Just bought the RP3 and it doesn't mention it in the manual. I'm weary to drop the tip of the stylus onto something that isn't a vinyl record such as the surface on a metal scale.
Just in case you didn't resolve this issue: that's inner groove distortion. You have to align your tonearm perpendicularly to the grooves, something like this: www.ortofon.com/media/10532/Cartridge%20alignment%20protracker.jpg?height=600&quality=80
If you want to set up your turntable WRONG use this video. Every cartridge has a certain weight of tracking force. Do it properly and use a scale. They are cheap to buy.
Hi guys, there is another way, I bought a 1984 Rega Plannar 3 second hand off Gumtree, in 2018 for £150, I have since added a 24v motor £135, Fidelity engineering Sub platter and Acrylic platter for £65 & £50 along with a Ortofon OM2 red £90., total for that lot £490, then 3 weeks ago bought a LItz wired RB300 tone arm for £300, well £50 if you take into account the £250 I got for my old RB300 arm, makes a grand total of £540, which I think is a better route than buying a new Rp3 for £550 without a cartridge. I have also sold the old glass platter, sub platter, and motor and bearing housing for £120, so I could say it cost me £420. Next upgrade will be an Edwards power supply £230, then the OM2 bronze or Black. Nearly forgot about the Rega fono 3 Phono stage sorry, that was £200 so I am £620 in the hole but my god is it worth it. Reckon I'd have to spend at least 4/5 times that to improve the sound just a fraction.
mcalnd You have to unscrew the arm and use a washer or something similar as a spacer. I would suggest a screw driver that has a torque settings so the arm is screwed in evenly.
Very helpful video. Especially the tip about setting the slider to 0 before balancing the Rega 3. This is the best video of its kind that I've seen.
I am 63 years old. I have installed many cartridges/stylus over the years on BIC, Technics, JVC, Thorens et. al. 1. Why does Rega not put white numerals, and segmented numerals, on the Tracking Force and Bias Adjustment pieces. For example, if the tracking forces for a Ortofon 2m Blue(which I bought) is recommended @ 1.8 grams, then those specific areas of the "knob and slider" should be marked for exact position. The "all black" aspect of the adjustment parts is hard to see in regular light and even more difficult with nothing but a 0-1-2, and that's it folks, designation. So where is 1.8 grams exactly on my "little" bias adjustment "nipple" and the Tracking Force Dial. I shouldn't have to count every little crevasse and ridge to get the number between 0-1 and then use simple division to see where it "May" need to be set! A $1000+ TT and brilliant minds making them with more than "difficult" adjustment pieces. WTF!
that tracking force is in accurate use scales
p3 easy to adjust antiskating, with the p 1 as the gift if I change the needle
Does it play the whole album or
You must switch manuel to the next track?
I'm a bit frightened to buy my Planar 2 as this seems a bit vague.
Had to mute.
Thanks for this! So for the P2 with Carbon cartridge, tonearm has to be balanced first then place it back on the clip and make a 360 spin clockwise once?
Yes that's correct. You can use the little screws on the counterweight for reference.
instablaster.
Should you set the slider to 2 on the tone arm. What does this do?
When I change the cartridge balance weight does not to be adjusted on planar 1?
Do you have to drop the stylus onto a scale to re-check the weight as I've seen some people do. Just bought the RP3 and it doesn't mention it in the manual. I'm weary to drop the tip of the stylus onto something that isn't a vinyl record such as the surface on a metal scale.
I would just to be sure, no harm in being extra careful
3:18 Can someone tell me what that half circle looking adjustment lever is for? The one that is closest to the turning table
That is the tonearm rest
I have a P1 but the sound is distorted and gets worse to the end of the record...how to fix this? can this be a tonearm balancing problem?
Just in case you didn't resolve this issue: that's inner groove distortion. You have to align your tonearm perpendicularly to the grooves, something like this:
www.ortofon.com/media/10532/Cartridge%20alignment%20protracker.jpg?height=600&quality=80
Probably fluff on stylus, brush off gently and clean every now an then. Thats the main problem I have
Classic symptom of a cartridge misalignment.
If you want to set up your turntable WRONG use this video. Every cartridge has a certain weight of tracking force. Do it properly and use a scale. They are cheap to buy.
Nice table but overpriced cartridge. Audio Technica makes a carbon cantilever and have for years.
You can buy the table without the cartridge from Music Direct. I agree that I would rather choose my own.
Hi guys, there is another way, I bought a 1984 Rega Plannar 3 second hand off Gumtree, in 2018 for £150, I have since added a 24v motor £135, Fidelity engineering Sub platter and Acrylic platter for £65 & £50 along with a Ortofon OM2 red £90., total for that lot £490, then 3 weeks ago bought a LItz wired RB300 tone arm for £300, well £50 if you take into account the £250 I got for my old RB300 arm, makes a grand total of £540, which I think is a better route than buying a new Rp3 for £550 without a cartridge. I have also sold the old glass platter, sub platter, and motor and bearing housing for £120, so I could say it cost me £420. Next upgrade will be an Edwards power supply £230, then the OM2 bronze or Black. Nearly forgot about the Rega fono 3 Phono stage sorry, that was £200 so I am £620 in the hole but my god is it worth it. Reckon I'd have to spend at least 4/5 times that to improve the sound just a fraction.
How to adjust VTA on your Rega tonearm........PAGE NOT FOUND........Oh Rega you fools
mcalnd You have to unscrew the arm and use a washer or something similar as a spacer. I would suggest a screw driver that has a torque settings so the arm is screwed in evenly.