I have read my SC300 manual for these procedures, read several articles describing how to do them, and watched whatever videos I could find from various sources as well, but this is by far and away the most comprehensive, complete and best descripion/video I have found. Really, really helpful and well put together. The mechanic is well spoken and highly knowledgeable on these procedures. Congratulations for a job well done, and thank you so much.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepairdo these steps work if you have a Supra with a 2jz ge? I know some forum say that all 2jz’s are the same. Just wanted to be sure
Thank you so much for doing this video, followed it step by step and worked perfect for me. I just finished my 2001 IS300 yesterday with 230k, started up, no engine codes, no leaks and runs like it did 17 years ago when i got it! I had only one issue with how to align the VVTi gear because I moved it from TDC when removing the bolt. I zoomed in on the part where you were releasing the oil and it looked like the hash mark stopped on the timing mark clockwise and as you turned it all the free play of the gear was to the left. So I moved the VVTI cam back so that the gear locked all the way to the right and the hash mark lined up with the timing mark, all 30 degrees of free play was to the left (counter clockwise) on the VVTi gear after changing the cam seal. I also confirmed this was correct in the service manual for installing the VVTi gear. This is by far the best video start to finish that I could find for this job, so thanks man!!!
I just did the timing belt and valve cover job myself for the first time, saved $1400, and learned a lot from you. Very thorough and detailed tutorial. Keep up the awesome work!
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Hello so when you installed the VV t gear I didn't notice you cock it all the way to the left is that the correct way to do that gear cocking it all the way counterclockwise aligning up and then putting the belt on? by the way I'm using a brand new gear because mine was leaking and I did not want to reseal
I have this weekend and then I start my next semester in college. This video saved me so much time and money. I've been turning wrenches for 28 years but your video just made it so much easier. Thank you!!! Subscribed and I'll check out your other channel. Good job teaching!
Hi, it’s now November 2024, and I’m just about to start on my 1999 GS300, I just wanted to make a correction if I may. On the water bypass fitting, there is the O ring at the top and two O rings at the bottom, the small pipe actually pulls/twists out of the fitting to reveal the other O ring. Thanks for your video.
Absolutely amazing video. I wouldn't have been able to fix my gs300 without your help. Very informative, proper terminology. Overall extremely professional video. Thank you very much friend.
Thank you sir..... Finally someone took the time to mention the foot pounds for the camshaft gears pulley inner bolt and outer bolt. 60 foot-pounds and 15 thank you
this is probably the most complete start to finish video of this job on youtube good work! I would recommend people also look up videos on putting a new oring inside the vvti gear itself as that's important while doing this job already. very carefully drilling a small hole in the crank seal and then a screw into the hole to use a hammer and pull it out worked great. just make sure to use a magnet to get the metal pieces before wiping the area
Wow. Amazingly detailed and comprehensive video on this complex repair. By far the best video on this. My second time doing it, so I wanted to refresh my memory on the process. This time I won't need an 8 foot pipe extension on the breaker bar for the harmonic balancer bolt.
Fantastic video. Thank you for your time and knowledge. My daughter and I are working on her GS300 and this is exactly what we needed to feel assured that we could do the job.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair just wanted to comment again that we finished this project. It took a while. Ran into some issues (broke off a valve cover bolt in the engine, had to order some additional parts, orings) but we got it finished. I wouldn't have had the confidence to do it without your video. Thanks, for your time and thoroughness. Also, good call on the special crank bolt tool... and I suggest a impact rated 22mm socket to remove/tighten the bolt... ask me how I know..
Awesome video! I did the whole job start to finish (watching the video as I went) with no problems except for breaking some of the brittle clips and hoses you warned about. Loved the detail right down to the torque specs for reassembly! Thank you!!
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks for the video Helping Hand, One thing i would add to the wiring harness area would be to be careful when pulling up on it too hard as the knock sensor wire underneath the intake manifold towards the front of engine is already tight. I've heard some people extend that wire so you have slack. Happened to me the last time i did valve covers and i got a check engine light for knock sensor.
Just picked up a 01 GS430 and all I needed help with was those timing marks. THANK YOU for showing clear instructions on that part. I didnt know its 2 notches on the crank shaft part so that helped clarify my confusion.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I know the engine is different so it’s different parts but what I needed clarification on was the position of the cams and crankshaft. You did a thorough explanation.
I was just using the video as a reference. Already finished the job and everything is running smooth. I know the marks are different but your concept was a better insight.
Thank you for this tutorial. I’m getting ready to tackle this job and I’ve never timed a car a with floating vvti gear like our JZ has, so I wasn’t 100% sure how it went back together. Definitely easier than I thought. Confidence is key in these jobs. Props.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It's very clear, and you are thoughtful and careful in your explanations. It's the best tutorial I have followed. I don't earn much at all, but it's tutorial's like this that allow me to keep my family car running and our small budget balanced. Much appreciated!!
It started up perfectly. If you are at all interested in modifying your Lexus, check out my other channel in the link in the description. Thanks for watching.
Just got me a 03 with an oil leak but it was in superb condition and I knew about the seals issues with this car but that legendary 2JZ has been a thorn in my mind for some time! I knew I would probably have to do this some day and I’m glad your video is so detailed bcuz going to a shop I would probably have to burn my whole nest egg, thanks to you I can see myself doing this no problem! , gonna take some days off and get it done using your excellent video, you are awesome dude! Truly appreciate what you’ve done here!
You got it. Oil sits in the oil pan underneath all those seals. Of course there will be some small residual oil but nothing will pour out. Except when you pull the VVTi cam gear off. Maybe an ounce will come out.
Excellent job bro detail step by step process. I find really helpful to watch and understand this video to be able to do my own car work with confidence. 😂😆😁🙌
Just picked up a 05 GS300 in great shape with 56K mi. Lexus recommends timing belt change between 60K-90K mi. Car was not used much by elderly woman, and the belt's age concerns me. Thank you for easing my apprehension of starting this job and getting in the weeds. Also, I appreciate advisement of purchasing a couple of specialty tools that "I Must Have" for my tool collection.
Best step by step video. Extremely helpful great job. Everything was clear as day allowed me to do all the work myself and saved a bunch of money. Thank u very much.
Such a good video! Thank you very much. As others have said, this is one of the best DIY videos I've seen/used. This made the job sooo much easier. Even with ALLDATA, this would have been so much harder.
At 49:21, you explain that the Coolant Bypass is press fit with an oring holding it in place. Does that mean it doesn’t sit flush when attached to the water pump? I’ve changed my timing belt and water pump with the help of your video (very thorough and the most helpful video I found, thank you!) but attaching the coolant bypass the last piece of the puzzle for me because I’m not sure if it should fit flush or not. Do I need to use a thicker oring to get a tighter fit, because it’s sitting kind of lose right now. Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you again for the video!
Sorry for the delay. Busy, if you notice that the top is bolted down via two 10mm bolts. When those are tight, the lower portion is pulled onto the water pump and it WON’t sit completely flush.
At 31:10 what is that hose tube on the left next to the wire? Looks like it’s missing a hose? There is also another one on the right opposite side of engine
Those are connected to each other. Just a vacuum tube that runs behind the timing cover. On some factory turbocharged engines these can be used for boost references.
I really do not understand why it is that the asian video's that have no sound nor explanation about anything in the video at all is always at the top of the list when this video is hands down the best video that i have ever seen this guy is extremely thorough he covered every aspect of everything that i needed help with on my 2000 lexus gs300 that initially simply needed a upper radiator hose replacement but evolved into a complete mess involving my timing my water pump and a couple of other things being that i didnt see this video until i did some extensive research in you tube and i let the wrong friend touch my car but its ok he had good intentions and this video should guide me through how to exactly fix my car..i hope but anyways what ever your name is dude i highly appreciate your video and how thorough you are when it comes to this type of car..oh and is there any chance that you are in the bay area i would gladly rather pay you to fix my car for me if you have the time..thank you
You are so good at these instructional videos, all the positive comments are well deserved. Still, I am hesitant to tackle the job. Sounds like I may live near enough to you to bring my car to you for this timing belt service (2000 Lexus GS300 with 95K miles, always garaged). In need of a good mechanic! How can I contact you?
Pulled the o-ring out of the front of the engine block where the water pump attaches. Both the new and the old o-ring seem to be a little larger in diameter than the groove in the engine block where they seat. Any suggestion as to how to reinstall that o-ring? It doesn't want to re-seat in the groove. Thanks, everything else has been going smoothly so far.
This is an absolute excellent video on this job. Great work! I did this on my 2001 IS300 about 3 years ago, and I really wish I'd seen your video before starting that job. It all turned out well, but not without some serious consternation. A couple of things I'd like you to comment on. First off, the VVTI/intake pulley on the 2JZGE engine tends to leak due to o-ring failure. The service manual says to not take off the 10 mm bolts to replace the o-ring, but there are quite a few videos that address this, but I think you'd do a much better job of explaining this service, particularly with the engine in the car. Second and related to that VVTI pulley, the FSM says to put the timing to TDC and then to move it back to 30 degrees before TDC (counter-clockwise on the crank pulley despite warnings to the contrary) so that there won't be valve to piston contact in case the camshafts rotate during cam pulley removal. I think this is also to ensure that the VVTI pulley is at 15 degrees before TDC and as described in the FSM, to provide a little cushion in case the camshaft rotates 180 degrees during pulley removal. Indeed, when I did this job, we used an impact to loosen the two camshaft pulleys and one ended up rotating 180 degrees plus due to the Crescent wrench loosening allowing rotation due to the impact. It turns out that no harm was done, but I'm thankful that the timing was set to 30 degrees BTDC. I'm guessing that an impact on these bolts is not a good idea. Also, after torquing back to 60 ft lbs on the two camshaft pulleys and an additional 15 ft lbs on the VVTI cam pulley cap, it's best to ensure that the VVTI pulley is still engaged with the camshaft and pulling clockwise at TDC. Just curious about this all because I have a bit of an oil leak from the VVTI pulley. Also, wondering if I need to do a full TB replacement because of that leak. Much respect!
If the gear is leaking, you can take all the 10mm off and pull the gear apart and replace the o-ring. Just make 100% sure you put it back together the exact same way you pulled it apart. If you’re not due for a timing belt, then it’s up to you if you want to replace it or not. If it were me personally, I would just replace the belt. If the belt has less than 20k miles on it, I would probably leave it. UNLESS it had oil all over it. I set these motors to TDC all the time. I do not use impacts on the cam Bolts. I hold the cam with an adjustable wrench and break loose the cam bolts and I also use the adjustable wrench to hold the cam while tightening the bolts back. It helps to have a second hand hood the adjustable wrench.
For everyone afraid of ruining that U-shaped vacuum hose (that is not readily available for sale in most places) don't remove it. You can remove the other vacuum hose attached to the VSV valve. Leave the valve bolted to the Y-piece and it can be removed as one unit together with the Y-piece. Just remove the fuel vapor hose from the VSV valve (it will be the upper one) and the small vacuum line that OP said was easy to remove and then tilt the Y-piece towards the back of the car, remove the tiny vacuum hose that goes to ACIS valve and the Y-piece can be removed as one piece. I learnt this from the service manual.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Not only did i rip that u-shaped vacuum hose. It was actually so difficult to remove that the VSV itself was destroyed in the process. Thank god i found a used one nearby and didn't have any further issues with it. Stupid hose.
Follow this tutorial step by step with some minor tweaks to make sure I don’t mess up timing. Well detailed, easy to follow. 100% would recommend to others. My car is running without leaks now.
Great video with good detail and plenty of cautionary comments. I have a 1998 SC300 with 86K miles. Second owner since 2013 when I got it with 20K miles. No CEL and no misfires. The valve covers are leaking badly, all ignition items and the timing belt are original. Changed serpentine belt once. Took the timing belt cover off and the 26-yr old belt looks great. Passed a couple kleenex over the ribbed belt surface area to pick up oil traces but found none. QUESTION: Would you stop after changing just the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs? Or, would you change the timing belt too? Also, would you change the (3)factory coils now? The NGK ones are kind of pricey at $80/each on RockAuto. Thanks in advance for your kind reply.
Timing belts are due around 90k miles. The thing about timing belts is, it’s not only mileage but AGE that kills them. I recommend replacing the timing belt, water pump and timing belt tensioner. I don’t recommend replacing the coils unless you really want to. If the current ones work, then keep using them until they fail.
Amazing guide, appreciate it so much. I do have a question if anyone here could help. Ive put in my cam seals and made them both flush before screwing down the tops but they end up being pushed out just a bit after being compressed. Would this cause issues? Should I push them in more before tightening down to avoid this?
Hey man your video is very helpful, I have a strange question, I accidentally pulled two of the bottom wires off the plug on the top rear passenger side of the valve cover and don't know which way they go back, can you help me out?
Can I ask, I bought most parts from Rock Auto but I didn't buy the back part of the Water Pump. Hadn't realised it is a two part thing until your excellent video. Why do you recommend replacing both parts and is the Thermostat possible to be got at without all the front work you need do for Cam belt Replacement?
I just recommend those specific kits and they so happen to come with a complete water pump assembly. It isn’t 100% necessary to replace the entire piece. You can just replace the front half of the unit with a new o-ring on the block and be just fine. You do not need to do take all that apart to replace the thermostat. The thermostat can be replaced COMPLETELY on its own. Just remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump, remove the two 10mm bolts holding on the water pump neck and replace the thermostat.
Thank you. about to tackle this on my is300. Replaced valve covers and vvti cam sprocket seal but still leaking oil. Figured out it was the actual cam seals themselves. So might as well get water pump and timing belt out the way. Best instructional video on RUclips right here on how to do it
Pretty sure that the part number for that hose is: 17343-46100 Double check it though. Here is a link to it: www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-hose-air-no-3~17343-46100.html
There are two notches on the harmonic balancer. As you are spinning the crank bolt clockwise, ignore the first mark you come too. Pay attention to the second mark that comes up and align that with the ZERO on the timing cover. So both notches on the cam gears line up with the humps on the metal cover behind the car gears and then ALSO the harmonic balancer notch needs to line up with the ZERO on the timing cover.
Unless it’s a 2005 GS300 then no it doesn’t. If you have the 3GR no belt change because it’s a timing chain. If it’s the 2JZ then yes you need to change the belt.
I have just completed this on my 2000 gs300, my timing Mark's are still perfect but it wont start engine and oil light is on when prime ignition, it sounds like it wants to start but wont fire. Any tips?
I used an impact on the bolt for the left cam gears while using holding the cam shaft with a wrench. It moved 2 tooth to the right of TDC but I can’t move the cam gear back to TDC using the wrench on the cam shaft. I’ve taken the spark plugs out thinking it’s because the compression. Still not budging. What do u thinking I should do?
It’s possible you bent a valve. Especially since you can’t turn it back. While there is valve spring pressure you’re fighting, it shouldn’t be that hard to turn it back. Chances are that if you bent a valve, the damage is already done. You can try and turn it back with a little more force than you have been and see if it spins back. If the valve is bent, the head has to come off. A leak down test will reveal that before you pull the head off. In the future, don’t use an impact. I never do on something like that because no one can anticipate how strong to counter hold and most certainly never hold it strong enough and this happens. If you use a breaker bar or a cheater bar to break the bolt loose, you can directly feel and counter hold the opposite direction much easier as you are gradually applying pressure slowly and not all at once.
Do I need to remove the injection bar to take off the camshaft sensor i broke the old one trying to remove it the new camshaft sensor i can't get it in
So my cam gears are lining up with the notches and humps, but it looks like the far left mark on the harmonic balancer is 15 degress off to the left, so how could I go about syncing things back up without bending a valve? Iv'e not removed the timing belt yet or the tensioner.
Sorry wrong question. Is there a Zero mark on you plastic cover behind the balancer? And you’re certain the marks on the cam gears are notches/lines and not the dots?
I think this is the part but you need to double check on your own. This website is also good for Lexus parts. www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-hose-air-no-3~17343-46100.html?vin=&make=Lexus&model=IS300&year=2005&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(3=SED;5=ATM;0=JCE10L-AEAVFA)
Thank you for taking time to show us all the steps. I watched the video and did all that myself. However, the water pump pulley is wobble . What is the torque specs for it? Thanks you again
Make sure it’s FULLY seated onto the pump shaft and centered on it. Not sure the exact torque specs. Probably not very high since they are small bolts maybe 8 lb/ft
Hey what’s that little hose thing connected to the water from the bottom when you took the pump out, is it like a vacuum hose or is it supposed to be connected to something?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair so my is300 is leaking a lot of coolant through that hole than normal like it’s consistently leaking, so does that mean it’s a bad water pump? And makes a whining noise here and there
I don’t have a specific list off hand. I do let you know the sizes as I removed them. Most important tool is the Lexus crank pulley holder. A breaker bar and various (8mm-17mm) metric 3/8” sockets and a 3/8” ratchet, flat head and Phillips screw drivers, pliers. Etc. Pretty much basic hand tools.
Can you tell me, is this vvti gear when you install the timing belt turned all the way clockwise, or anti clockwise till is stops? (seen from the front of the car)
That Deleon if you lined up the car using the dots or the notches. The VVTi gear will free spin up to 30 degrees however it isn’t actually moving the camshaft inside the motor.
Just bought a gs300 that already had the water pump replaced (Nov 2021). The car drips oil I’m sure it’s the bottom seal. Also the valve covers leak like crazy. Am I able to do this job without removing the radiator and skipping the water pump?
Quick question. I recently did this job on my sons 2003 GS300. All the marks are lined up perfectly. I had to change the bottom timings gear at the crank due to dropping the gear and chipping off a tooth. I replaced it with an OEM part. I am getting a P0016 code. I have checked the timing many times and the car is running great. Could it just be a sensor? I’m a GM tech with 24 years experience. I do not like working on these cars. What did I do wrong. Lol
It’s also possible that the crank sensor is bad but those don’t usually fail too often on these. Usually people bend the crank trigger wheel by accident or drop it. Since you have replaced it with a new part, I would say that you’re ok there. OCV do clog up or even fail.
It’s worth a look. I am not a professional at all. So if that doesn’t sort out your issue then please write back and I will try to help you out as best as I can.
![Помпа, ГРМ, сальники, муфта, ролик. 1jz-ge vvti Toyota Cresta [БТ26]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2RN-t2Zac24/mqdefault.jpg)
For anyone who wants the specs..
Water pump
-15ftlb
No.2 bypass pipe
-15ft/lb
Water inlet w/thermostat
-80in/lb
bypass outlet w/no.1 bypass pipe
-80in/lb
Alternator
-30ft/lb
Water pump pulley
-10tf/lb
Timing belt plate
-71in/lb
Idler pulley
-26ft/lb w/loctite 242
Lower timing cover(No.1)
-71in/lb
VVT-i pulley
-60ft/lb
VVT-i pulley cover
-11ft/lb
Exhaust cam timing pulley
-60ft/lb
Timing belt tensioner
-20ft/lb
Tighten crankshaft pulley bolt
-243ft/lb
Drive belt tensioner
-15ft/lb
Mid timing cover(No.2)
-71in/lb
VVT-i timing cover(No.3)
-71in/lb
PS bracket
-43ft/lb behind PS pulley
-38ft/lb other bolt
Valve covers
-75in/lb
Spark plugs
-13ft/lb
Air intake plenum
-21 ft/lb
Throttle body
Bracket to head-
-15ft/lb
Radiator
Supports-
-10ft/lb
You sir are a Genius!!! I salute you!!
You are a godsend
u a fuckin real one brother
So that’s y my elec ratchet snapped the water pump bolt😂
I have read my SC300 manual for these procedures, read several articles describing how to do them, and watched whatever videos I could find from various sources as well, but this is by far and away the most comprehensive, complete and best descripion/video I have found. Really, really helpful and well put together. The mechanic is well spoken and highly knowledgeable on these procedures. Congratulations for a job well done, and thank you so much.
Thanks for the kind words.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepairdo these steps work if you have a Supra with a 2jz ge? I know some forum say that all 2jz’s are the same. Just wanted to be sure
@joacimgray4857 should be very similar
Thank you so much for doing this video, followed it step by step and worked perfect for me. I just finished my 2001 IS300 yesterday with 230k, started up, no engine codes, no leaks and runs like it did 17 years ago when i got it! I had only one issue with how to align the VVTi gear because I moved it from TDC when removing the bolt. I zoomed in on the part where you were releasing the oil and it looked like the hash mark stopped on the timing mark clockwise and as you turned it all the free play of the gear was to the left. So I moved the VVTI cam back so that the gear locked all the way to the right and the hash mark lined up with the timing mark, all 30 degrees of free play was to the left (counter clockwise) on the VVTi gear after changing the cam seal. I also confirmed this was correct in the service manual for installing the VVTi gear. This is by far the best video start to finish that I could find for this job, so thanks man!!!
Glad you were able to get it done!
I just did the timing belt and valve cover job myself for the first time, saved $1400, and learned a lot from you. Very thorough and detailed tutorial. Keep up the awesome work!
Thanks. Glad you could pocket $1400!!
how long did it take you?
This type of job would take me about 4-5 hours or so
The shop near my house charge 250 for changing a timing belt .
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Hello so when you installed the VV t gear I didn't notice you cock it all the way to the left is that the correct way to do that gear cocking it all the way counterclockwise aligning up and then putting the belt on? by the way I'm using a brand new gear because mine was leaking and I did not want to reseal
I have this weekend and then I start my next semester in college. This video saved me so much time and money. I've been turning wrenches for 28 years but your video just made it so much easier. Thank you!!! Subscribed and I'll check out your other channel. Good job teaching!
Hi, it’s now November 2024, and I’m just about to start on my 1999 GS300, I just wanted to make a correction if I may. On the water bypass fitting, there is the O ring at the top and two O rings at the bottom, the small pipe actually pulls/twists out of the fitting to reveal the other O ring. Thanks for your video.
Absolutely amazing video. I wouldn't have been able to fix my gs300 without your help. Very informative, proper terminology. Overall extremely professional video. Thank you very much friend.
Thanks for watching. Glad you were able to get it done.
Thank you sir.....
Finally someone took the time to mention the foot pounds for the camshaft gears pulley inner bolt and outer bolt. 60 foot-pounds and 15 thank you
this is probably the most complete start to finish video of this job on youtube good work! I would recommend people also look up videos on putting a new oring inside the vvti gear itself as that's important while doing this job already. very carefully drilling a small hole in the crank seal and then a screw into the hole to use a hammer and pull it out worked great. just make sure to use a magnet to get the metal pieces before wiping the area
Wow. Amazingly detailed and comprehensive video on this complex repair. By far the best video on this. My second time doing it, so I wanted to refresh my memory on the process. This time I won't need an 8 foot pipe extension on the breaker bar for the harmonic balancer bolt.
Fantastic video. Thank you for your time and knowledge. My daughter and I are working on her GS300 and this is exactly what we needed to feel assured that we could do the job.
Thanks for stopping by!
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair just wanted to comment again that we finished this project. It took a while. Ran into some issues (broke off a valve cover bolt in the engine, had to order some additional parts, orings) but we got it finished. I wouldn't have had the confidence to do it without your video. Thanks, for your time and thoroughness. Also, good call on the special crank bolt tool... and I suggest a impact rated 22mm socket to remove/tighten the bolt... ask me how I know..
Glad you were able to get it done! Good work! As you can see my socket is a black impact rated socket. Sorry I should have mentioned that.
Easily the in the top 5 best repair videos I've seen. Major kudos!
Thanks.
Awesome video! I did the whole job start to finish (watching the video as I went) with no problems except for breaking some of the brittle clips and hoses you warned about. Loved the detail right down to the torque specs for reassembly! Thank you!!
No problem. Thanks for watching.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks for the video Helping Hand, One thing i would add to the wiring harness area would be to be careful when pulling up on it too hard as the knock sensor wire underneath the intake manifold towards the front of engine is already tight. I've heard some people extend that wire so you have slack. Happened to me the last time i did valve covers and i got a check engine light for knock sensor.
Just picked up a 01 GS430 and all I needed help with was those timing marks. THANK YOU for showing clear instructions on that part. I didnt know its 2 notches on the crank shaft part so that helped clarify my confusion.
Wait. This engine is NOT a V8. Your engine is different from the one in this video.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I know the engine is different so it’s different parts but what I needed clarification on was the position of the cams and crankshaft. You did a thorough explanation.
That’s what I’m telling you, this video does not apply to a gs430. The timing marks are completely different.
Roger doger
I was just using the video as a reference. Already finished the job and everything is running smooth. I know the marks are different but your concept was a better insight.
Thank you for this tutorial. I’m getting ready to tackle this job and I’ve never timed a car a with floating vvti gear like our JZ has, so I wasn’t 100% sure how it went back together. Definitely easier than I thought. Confidence is key in these jobs.
Props.
Thanks. Good luck.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It's very clear, and you are thoughtful and careful in your explanations. It's the best tutorial I have followed. I don't earn much at all, but it's tutorial's like this that allow me to keep my family car running and our small budget balanced. Much appreciated!!
This is exactly why I started this channel. To help people save money. Glad you found the video.
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This is one of the most in depth, helpfull videos i have seen on this! Subscribed
Thanks!
This is the best video to reference to tackle this job. Step by step, clear concise. A+
thanks
Great video!!… I would have enjoyed the start up tho
It started up perfectly. If you are at all interested in modifying your Lexus, check out my other channel in the link in the description. Thanks for watching.
Good stuff!! Years later, these videos will continue to be helpful!! It definitely helped me!!
Thanks for this amazing step by step video - followed this yesterday to replace the water pump in my Supra :)
This is how to make a repair video!!. NO excessive talking, joking. Editing is right on point!! He keeps jokes at beginning and end -perfect!
Just got me a 03 with an oil leak but it was in superb condition and I knew about the seals issues with this car but that legendary 2JZ has been a thorn in my mind for some time! I knew I would probably have to do this some day and I’m glad your video is so detailed bcuz going to a shop I would probably have to burn my whole nest egg, thanks to you I can see myself doing this no problem! , gonna take some days off and get it done using your excellent video, you are awesome dude! Truly appreciate what you’ve done here!
Thanks for watching. Feel free to ask any questions you might have.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair At which point do I need drain the oil? Is it a good idea to wait until I get to the seals?
You don’t need to drain the oil to do the cam and crank seals.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair wow really, ok. That’s so weird tho, I’m guessing the oil is below all that then when not running.. Thanks again!!
You got it. Oil sits in the oil pan underneath all those seals. Of course there will be some small residual oil but nothing will pour out. Except when you pull the VVTi cam gear off. Maybe an ounce will come out.
Best timing belt, water pump, etc... step by step 2jzge video on RUclips. Thanks!
Excellent job bro detail step by step process. I find really helpful to watch and understand this video to be able to do my own car work with confidence. 😂😆😁🙌
Check out my other channel
If you care to modify your lexus
Just picked up a 05 GS300 in great shape with 56K mi. Lexus recommends timing belt change between 60K-90K mi. Car was not used much by elderly woman, and the belt's age concerns me. Thank you for easing my apprehension of starting this job and getting in the weeds. Also, I appreciate advisement of purchasing a couple of specialty tools that "I Must Have" for my tool collection.
Yes the age of the belt concerns me too. I would definitely have it replaced or give it a shot yourself.
2005 That’s super low mileages. I have the same year myself but at 110k mi.
thank you thank you thank you!!! ive gained lots of confidence now to tackle this maintenance
If you’re at all interested in modifying your 2J, check out my other channel.
That was an incredibly detailed video! Thank you for being clear and thorough!
Thanks. Happy to help.
this on the big screen in the shop was very helpful and thorough
Best step by step video. Extremely helpful great job. Everything was clear as day allowed me to do all the work myself and saved a bunch of money. Thank u very much.
No problem. Thanks for watching
Thanks brother i really appreciate you taking the time to teach
Such a good video! Thank you very much. As others have said, this is one of the best DIY videos I've seen/used. This made the job sooo much easier. Even with ALLDATA, this would have been so much harder.
Appreciate you watching. Check out my other channel in the link in the description if you are into modifying your Lexus.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Done! I have 4 of these cars now, so I'm looking forward to checking out the build...
Been a month. Lexus IS running cherry. Thanks again for the complete video !
Of course.
Such a great video and explaining everything in details step by step,awesome job.
Are you a shop class teacher? If not you should be! Great video man
Lol, I am not. Thanks.
At 49:21, you explain that the Coolant Bypass is press fit with an oring holding it in place. Does that mean it doesn’t sit flush when attached to the water pump? I’ve changed my timing belt and water pump with the help of your video (very thorough and the most helpful video I found, thank you!) but attaching the coolant bypass the last piece of the puzzle for me because I’m not sure if it should fit flush or not. Do I need to use a thicker oring to get a tighter fit, because it’s sitting kind of lose right now. Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you again for the video!
Sorry for the delay. Busy, if you notice that the top is bolted down via two 10mm bolts. When those are tight, the lower portion is pulled onto the water pump and it WON’t sit completely flush.
I tightened the bolts then pushed (semi-lightly) on the elbow to make sure it was as far on as it could be.
Excellent job. One thing left was to clean a little the engine and plastic covers at least, lol
True. It’s gonna just get dirty again though.
Best video I watched very informational!! Saved a lot of time & money
If you are at all interested in modifying your Lexus, check out my other channel.
At 31:10 what is that hose tube on the left next to the wire? Looks like it’s missing a hose? There is also another one on the right opposite side of engine
Those are connected to each other. Just a vacuum tube that runs behind the timing cover. On some factory turbocharged engines these can be used for boost references.
Very good video, informative, educational and detail oriented! Excellent job!
Thanks sir.
I really do not understand why it is that the asian video's that have no sound nor explanation about anything in the video at all is always at the top of the list when this video is hands down the best video that i have ever seen this guy is extremely thorough he covered every aspect of everything that i needed help with on my 2000 lexus gs300 that initially simply needed a upper radiator hose replacement but evolved into a complete mess involving my timing my water pump and a couple of other things being that i didnt see this video until i did some extensive research in you tube and i let the wrong friend touch my car but its ok he had good intentions and this video should guide me through how to exactly fix my car..i hope but anyways what ever your name is dude i highly appreciate your video and how thorough you are when it comes to this type of car..oh and is there any chance that you are in the bay area i would gladly rather pay you to fix my car for me if you have the time..thank you
Thanks for the kind words. I actually do live in the Bay Area.
THANK YOU! you video was very helpful in doing my timing job! Just did it with my dad on my gs300. 😀
Great! Hopefully all went well.
Best maintenance video I’ve seen so far for a 2jz
Thanks.
Great video, love the interesting sound effects in the background.
BTW its easier to remove the water pump pulley bolts with the belt still on, as per workshop manual, but a good video.
Either way works. Been doing it both ways for years. Both are easy to me at least.
This was actually very helpful, thank you!
real helpfully video thank you so much for time and god bless you ..
Thanks. Have a good day.
Great walk through 🫡🫡🫡
Hey thanks. If you are interested in modifying your 2JZ maybe check out my other channel listed in the description. Thanks for watching.
Excellent resource for this job appreciate your inclusion of the tips that you have obviously gained through a lot of experience.
InstaBlaster.
Fantastic! Thank you for taking the time to post this. Subscribed!!!
Thanks! If you are into modifying your is300 or 2JZ, take a look at my other channel listed in the description
You are so good at these instructional videos, all the positive comments are well deserved. Still, I am hesitant to tackle the job. Sounds like I may live near enough to you to bring my car to you for this timing belt service (2000 Lexus GS300 with 95K miles, always garaged). In need of a good mechanic! How can I contact you?
If you check out the main home page of the channel. Navigate to the about tab, there should be an email there to contact me.
What is the part number of the two hoses that he says will likely break?
Not sure if the exact number. Check Lexus parts now website.
Pulled the o-ring out of the front of the engine block where the water pump attaches. Both the new and the old o-ring seem to be a little larger in diameter than the groove in the engine block where they seat. Any suggestion as to how to reinstall that o-ring? It doesn't want to re-seat in the groove. Thanks, everything else has been going smoothly so far.
Thank you so much 🙏
This is an absolute excellent video on this job. Great work! I did this on my 2001 IS300 about 3 years ago, and I really wish I'd seen your video before starting that job. It all turned out well, but not without some serious consternation. A couple of things I'd like you to comment on. First off, the VVTI/intake pulley on the 2JZGE engine tends to leak due to o-ring failure. The service manual says to not take off the 10 mm bolts to replace the o-ring, but there are quite a few videos that address this, but I think you'd do a much better job of explaining this service, particularly with the engine in the car. Second and related to that VVTI pulley, the FSM says to put the timing to TDC and then to move it back to 30 degrees before TDC (counter-clockwise on the crank pulley despite warnings to the contrary) so that there won't be valve to piston contact in case the camshafts rotate during cam pulley removal. I think this is also to ensure that the VVTI pulley is at 15 degrees before TDC and as described in the FSM, to provide a little cushion in case the camshaft rotates 180 degrees during pulley removal. Indeed, when I did this job, we used an impact to loosen the two camshaft pulleys and one ended up rotating 180 degrees plus due to the Crescent wrench loosening allowing rotation due to the impact. It turns out that no harm was done, but I'm thankful that the timing was set to 30 degrees BTDC. I'm guessing that an impact on these bolts is not a good idea. Also, after torquing back to 60 ft lbs on the two camshaft pulleys and an additional 15 ft lbs on the VVTI cam pulley cap, it's best to ensure that the VVTI pulley is still engaged with the camshaft and pulling clockwise at TDC.
Just curious about this all because I have a bit of an oil leak from the VVTI pulley. Also, wondering if I need to do a full TB replacement because of that leak. Much respect!
If the gear is leaking, you can take all the 10mm off and pull the gear apart and replace the o-ring. Just make 100% sure you put it back together the exact same way you pulled it apart.
If you’re not due for a timing belt, then it’s up to you if you want to replace it or not. If it were me personally, I would just replace the belt. If the belt has less than 20k miles on it, I would probably leave it. UNLESS it had oil all over it.
I set these motors to TDC all the time. I do not use impacts on the cam
Bolts. I hold the cam with an adjustable wrench and break loose the cam bolts and I also use the adjustable wrench to hold the cam while tightening the bolts back. It helps to have a second hand hood the adjustable wrench.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks so much for the quick reply. Man, I wish you were down here in SoCal! Again, great work!
Well. You’re always welcome to bring the car here lol. Thanks for the kind words.
Great video! Thank you!!!
Really good video
For everyone afraid of ruining that U-shaped vacuum hose (that is not readily available for sale in most places) don't remove it. You can remove the other vacuum hose attached to the VSV valve. Leave the valve bolted to the Y-piece and it can be removed as one unit together with the Y-piece. Just remove the fuel vapor hose from the VSV valve (it will be the upper one) and the small vacuum line that OP said was easy to remove and then tilt the Y-piece towards the back of the car, remove the tiny vacuum hose that goes to ACIS valve and the Y-piece can be removed as one piece. I learnt this from the service manual.
Good tip you learned. If it breaks I just replace it with a fuel rated bulk hose for any parts store. No need to get the overpriced Lexus hose.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair
Not only did i rip that u-shaped vacuum hose. It was actually so difficult to remove that the VSV itself was destroyed in the process. Thank god i found a used one nearby and didn't have any further issues with it. Stupid hose.
@@tommygunn2794 lol, that sucks. Good thing you got it sorted.
Have you ever change your power steering ?
I haven’t had to yet fortunately.
Looking at doing this on a 1JZ-GE. Would the process be similar?
Very similar. Slightly different idler pulleys underneath the timing cover but the process is very similar.
Follow this tutorial step by step with some minor tweaks to make sure I don’t mess up timing. Well detailed, easy to follow. 100% would recommend to others. My car is running without leaks now.
Do you need an hydraulic tensioner for this?
You should definitely get a new timing belt tensioner.
nice clean work good job buddy
Great video with good detail and plenty of cautionary comments. I have a 1998 SC300 with 86K miles. Second owner since 2013 when I got it with 20K miles. No CEL and no misfires. The valve covers are leaking badly, all ignition items and the timing belt are original. Changed serpentine belt once. Took the timing belt cover off and the 26-yr old belt looks great. Passed a couple kleenex over the ribbed belt surface area to pick up oil traces but found none. QUESTION: Would you stop after changing just the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs? Or, would you change the timing belt too? Also, would you change the (3)factory coils now? The NGK ones are kind of pricey at $80/each on RockAuto. Thanks in advance for your kind reply.
Timing belts are due around 90k miles. The thing about timing belts is, it’s not only mileage but AGE that kills them. I recommend replacing the timing belt, water pump and timing belt tensioner.
I don’t recommend replacing the coils unless you really want to. If the current ones work, then keep using them until they fail.
Amazing guide, appreciate it so much. I do have a question if anyone here could help. Ive put in my cam seals and made them both flush before screwing down the tops but they end up being pushed out just a bit after being compressed. Would this cause issues? Should I push them in more before tightening down to avoid this?
You just push them in flush as you have. Tighten down the cam caps and you’re good to go.
Hey man your video is very helpful, I have a strange question, I accidentally pulled two of the bottom wires off the plug on the top rear passenger side of the valve cover and don't know which way they go back, can you help me out?
Hey man nice !!detailed video is it the same with 98 lexus gs 400? Thanks in advanced
This is not the same for a GS400 as that is a V8 engine (1uz I believe)
This video will work for a 98 GS300
Can I ask, I bought most parts from Rock Auto but I didn't buy the back part of the Water Pump. Hadn't realised it is a two part thing until your excellent video. Why do you recommend replacing both parts and is the Thermostat possible to be got at without all the front work you need do for Cam belt Replacement?
I just recommend those specific kits and they so happen to come with a complete water pump assembly. It isn’t 100% necessary to replace the entire piece.
You can just replace the front half of the unit with a new o-ring on the block and be just fine. You do not need to do take all that apart to replace the thermostat. The thermostat can be replaced COMPLETELY on its own.
Just remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump, remove the two 10mm bolts holding on the water pump neck and replace the thermostat.
Awesome video. Thank you.
If you’re into modifying your is300, do check out my other channel. It’s in the description below.
very informative, thank you!
No problem!
You are at your ZEN place when you're working on cars....breath in....ahhh... :D. love your work
Thanks bro.
Fun diy tip for those transmission lines, if you lose fluid, it's should at most 1/4 of a quart. In case you were wondering ahead of time.
Is there a special tool that holds the gears for you so you cant get bolts off. Without taking off wntire valve cover assembly for cranks?
For the cam gears? Not that I am aware of. You might be able to use a flathead wedged against something to hold it but I wouldn’t.
I don't even own this car and I find this video very helpful and informative. This is how you do a DIY video!!!!
Isn’t there an o ring that needs replaced just below the right side of that water pump next to the block water outlet ? under that brass nut ?
There is an o-ring on the bypass on the side of the head.
What coolant did you use to fill it back up?
Pretty sure I used Zerex Asian (red) coolant
Any puller kits that are good to own ?
I honestly just use a puller from harbor freight. Has worked for years for me.
Thank you. about to tackle this on my is300. Replaced valve covers and vvti cam sprocket seal but still leaking oil. Figured out it was the actual cam seals themselves. So might as well get water pump and timing belt out the way. Best instructional video on RUclips right here on how to do it
@@miltonmartinez6698 sounds good! You got this 👌🏽
what's the name of the hose that you ended up splitting at 17:39
I also broke the hose on the y pipe that is in front of the PCV valve
Pretty sure that the part number for that hose is: 17343-46100
Double check it though. Here is a link to it: www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-hose-air-no-3~17343-46100.html
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you so much man!
Next job is all the door lock actuators. Programming keys? I didn't see them on this channel.
Don’t need to program the key to a new actuator. They will still work if they work now.
Detail mechanical. Very good
Man you are awesome I have and 01 needs the same thing.
Thanks!
What are the list parts again that i should consider replacing while i'm doing this job? Just got an 01 is300 with the original belt with 180k on it.
OVER THE TOP INF .FROM PUERTO RICO!!!!!!!!
The 2 marks up top has to be on indentation. What about the bottom?
Does the first mark on crank pulley have to be at 0?
There are two notches on the harmonic balancer. As you are spinning the crank bolt clockwise, ignore the first mark you come too. Pay attention to the second mark that comes up and align that with the ZERO on the timing cover.
So both notches on the cam gears line up with the humps on the metal cover behind the car gears and then ALSO the harmonic balancer notch needs to line up with the ZERO on the timing cover.
my gs300 just hit 100K. Is it time to change the timing belt?
Unless it’s a 2005 GS300 then no it doesn’t. If you have the 3GR no belt change because it’s a timing chain. If it’s the 2JZ then yes you need to change the belt.
I have just completed this on my 2000 gs300, my timing Mark's are still perfect but it wont start engine and oil light is on when prime ignition, it sounds like it wants to start but wont fire. Any tips?
Any check engine light codes? If you have a scanner you should check for them.
Nice job broo very good 👌👍🌹
How many quart any-freezer does it take
I used an impact on the bolt for the left cam gears while using holding the cam shaft with a wrench. It moved 2 tooth to the right of TDC but I can’t move the cam gear back to TDC using the wrench on the cam shaft. I’ve taken the spark plugs out thinking it’s because the compression. Still not budging. What do u thinking I should do?
It’s possible you bent a valve. Especially since you can’t turn it back.
While there is valve spring pressure you’re fighting, it shouldn’t be that hard to turn it back. Chances are that if you bent a valve, the damage is already done. You can try and turn it back with a little more force than you have been and see if it spins back.
If the valve is bent, the head has to come off. A leak down test will reveal that before you pull the head off.
In the future, don’t use an impact. I never do on something like that because no one can anticipate how strong to counter hold and most certainly never hold it strong enough and this happens.
If you use a breaker bar or a cheater bar to break the bolt loose, you can directly feel and counter hold the opposite direction much easier as you are gradually applying pressure slowly and not all at once.
Hi could you list the all the tools required for the job
Basic set of metric sockets and wrenches up to 19mm
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
Pliers
Torque wrench
Do I need to remove the injection bar to take off the camshaft sensor i broke the old one trying to remove it the new camshaft sensor i can't get it in
I believe so.
Will using the frame rails as leverage with the breaker bar work on the IS300 as well? I noticed this was a GS Is the reason I ask. Thanks.
Absolutely it will. That’s what I do on my wife’s IS300
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks! I appreciate the quick response!
So my cam gears are lining up with the notches and humps, but it looks like the far left mark on the harmonic balancer is 15 degress off to the left, so how could I go about syncing things back up without bending a valve? Iv'e not removed the timing belt yet or the tensioner.
Is there a zero mark on the balancer?
Sorry wrong question. Is there a Zero mark on you plastic cover behind the balancer? And you’re certain the marks on the cam gears are notches/lines and not the dots?
The intake manifold hose that split do you have a link to purchase those? Or a part number? Mine split pretty bad and I just want to buy new ones
I think this is the part but you need to double check on your own. This website is also good for Lexus parts.
www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-hose-air-no-3~17343-46100.html?vin=&make=Lexus&model=IS300&year=2005&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(3=SED;5=ATM;0=JCE10L-AEAVFA)
Thank you for taking time to show us all the steps. I watched the video and did all that myself. However, the water pump pulley is wobble . What is the torque specs for it? Thanks you again
Make sure it’s FULLY seated onto the pump shaft and centered on it. Not sure the exact torque specs. Probably not very high since they are small bolts maybe 8 lb/ft
Hey what’s that little hose thing connected to the water from the bottom when you took the pump out, is it like a vacuum hose or is it supposed to be connected to something?
It’s a weep hole for the water pump to allow coolant to drip out instead of down into the lower timing cover area
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair so my is300 is leaking a lot of coolant through that hole than normal like it’s consistently leaking, so does that mean it’s a bad water pump? And makes a whining noise here and there
@@Dillonwiththe40 yes pump is bad. You should replace it and also consider doing a complete timing belt job as well. Since you’re there.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair will do thank you so so much I appreciate it
Soooo did it start??
Of course it started. This isn’t my first 2JZ timing belt job.
Anyway you could list the tools required for this job?
I don’t have a specific list off hand. I do let you know the sizes as I removed them.
Most important tool is the Lexus crank pulley holder.
A breaker bar and various (8mm-17mm) metric 3/8” sockets and a 3/8” ratchet, flat head and Phillips screw drivers, pliers. Etc.
Pretty much basic hand tools.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you! Your videos are great man thanks for all the help!
Can you tell me, is this vvti gear when you install the timing belt turned all the way clockwise, or anti clockwise till is stops? (seen from the front of the car)
That Deleon if you lined up the car using the dots or the notches. The VVTi gear will free spin up to 30 degrees however it isn’t actually moving the camshaft inside the motor.
thank you
Just bought a gs300 that already had the water pump replaced (Nov 2021). The car drips oil I’m sure it’s the bottom seal. Also the valve covers leak like crazy. Am I able to do this job without removing the radiator and skipping the water pump?
Unfortunately not.
Quick question. I recently did this job on my sons 2003 GS300. All the marks are lined up perfectly. I had to change the bottom timings gear at the crank due to dropping the gear and chipping off a tooth. I replaced it with an OEM part. I am getting a P0016 code. I have checked the timing many times and the car is running great. Could it just be a sensor? I’m a GM tech with 24 years experience. I do not like working on these cars. What did I do wrong. Lol
Could be a faulty OCV valve on the driver side of the head. Right near the timing belt. Sometimes the connector is loose or the valve is clogged up
It’s also possible that the crank sensor is bad but those don’t usually fail too often on these. Usually people bend the crank trigger wheel by accident or drop it. Since you have replaced it with a new part, I would say that you’re ok there. OCV do clog up or even fail.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thank you!!!
It’s worth a look. I am not a professional at all. So if that doesn’t sort out your issue then please write back and I will try to help you out as best as I can.