Paint 2x Faster with This?
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2023
- Will these 6 tools help you paint a room faster and better? Watch and find out!
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Хобби
Best painting tip I've learned: marry an artist and she’ll take on all the painting projects for me! 😅
Charlie, you have won the painting lottery 😂
@@Fixthisbuildthat she’s a ceramist so she does all the tiling too! 😂
I paint as well for a hobby, so my family always asks me to do all the edging for them! 😂 I love to do it, and they never fail to pay me in tasty food. It’s a win-win for everyone!
SERIOUSLY!! You read my mind! I'm painting my laundry room this week. I NEED THIS VIDEO! 👍🏻
You got this!
As a professional painter here are a few tips.
Use tape for baseboards doors and window trim. Only cut in ceilings. Doing this will help keep fallout from the roller from getting on your trims.
We use 4 inch rollers for pretty much all cutting in. Use it where you taped and after cutting in with a brush going over the brush marks to get a better texture. Also for the corners a roller is much nicer.
And 9in roller for small rooms and 18 in rollers for big rooms. Unless your doing multiple rooms and only one color then just stick with the 18.
I usually put a plastic bag in the tray so I can use it but don’t have to clean it afterwards 😎
smart!
Cleaning is easy so long as you don't wait too long. Also if a little paint dries in the pan it still works fine. I have one I've used for ages and it has maybe 10-15 different colors on it. Mostly along the top away from the pan part. A quick rinse after pouring any extra paint back in the can usually takes care of most of it.
totally! for me still way easier to just remove the plastic bag and you are done!@@ScottCleve33
I use press and seal wrap to line paint tray for easy clean up.
I have one of those edge trim tools, for very specific jobs only. When I can, I much prefer a brush.
I'm short (5'2") and live in a home with 10 foot ceilings and double height stairwells. Even on a ladder, there are places I can't reach to paint.
My edger screws onto my extension pole, and I can reach everywhere to do the cutting in.
Here are some of my tricks:
- use a brush to load the edger's pad. I put a little paint at the top, more in the middle.
- I put the filled pad on the wall near the trim / ceiling, and push so the wheels touch the edge. This leaves a cleaner line
- there's often a very thin unpainted edge. I don't worry about this, as it's pretty far away
- immediately switch to a roller to roll the wall and remove any thick edge of paint.
Again, if I can reach an area with a brush, I do not use the pad.
great tips!
One factor to include in the tape consideration. I always tape baseboards and chair rails not so much for edging, but to keep paint splatter from the rolling process off of them. I hate a nice white piece of trim with all these little dark spots on them.
Joke at the end was 👌
Edge trim tool: there are a couple of tricks. One, you mentioned, is finding out how much paint loading is ideal. Trial and error every time, but do-able. Second: place the pad on the wall about 1/2" from the trim and then slide the pad up to the trim while also moving parallel to the trim. That motion shifts the paint away from the trim just a bit when first setting down. Then, just because it works on trim, don't hesitate to move it a bit away from the trim to spread out the paint. If you hate masking the trim (I sure do), the trim tool is worth it.
those are some good tips for getting better results, thx!
Soon forgotten in the turmoil of Life! ? @@Fixthisbuildthat
@@FixthisbuildthatI didn’t like till third time I tried them. Loaded properly, they get you very close. Then just feather out the thick edges and come back with a brush for final touch up. Whenever I cut in, I get about the same amount of spots to touch up but with the edge trim tool I can fly around the room.
I swear by the red sure-line pad model and the small paint tray it comes with. It does take a bit of getting used to if not used before. In no time it will be easier than using a brush. Dip the pad flat in the paint not deeper than the pad, scrape off the excess, put the pad a little distance away from the trim like jhirm2957 says below. Follow in direction of trim until both rollers touch at the same time, then go until the pad needs more paint. As far as the outside edge extra paint, it is super easy to just move the pad over edge to spread out the paint, no big deal. This also works at wall to ceiling corners when these are two different colors. With practice, this tool will be your best friend.
@@FixthisbuildthatI was going to say exactly what wadesam6233 said, I use the same brand he says and once you get used to using it you won't regret it, I love those things!!!
I used to use tape all the time for everything. Then after watching a lot of RUclipsrs cut in, I rarely use tape now. With practice and patience cutting in I get better results. Tape isn’t foolproof, it bleeds, it’s messy to remove, it’s expensive, and trim and walls don’t ever seem to be in perfect lines to tape anyway. If you get some paint on the trim cutting in just wipe it right off. With tape you don’t find the problem until it’s too late.
I just went through all that yesterday, and today. To me, taping is the worst part of the job. One thing to note though, if you use tape, and encounter bleed-through, you have about 30 days with acrylic before the paint is fully cured, which is way more than the few hours you'll need to wipe it after you're done painting. If the trim paint is oil based you can pretty much just let the acrylic paint dry, and peel it off because acrylic doesn't like to stick to oil.
Same. I just use a 2.5 angle purdy brush to cut in and fix what ever I mess up after it dries.
Practice makes perfect for cutting in. I have painted for years and tried those fancy things. I am better at cutting in than taping. It would tick me off it had bled behind the tape. So I only use tape in those really hard places to reach without getting paint all over. I keep a damp rag around to quickly swipe any paint off of the trim I might accidentally get pushed onto it.
Also I will not use a cheap brush for trim. I love the short handled one with the beveled and angled edge.
Just finished painting two hallways with a lot of doors in our house a week or so ago. This video could not have come at a better time before I do the rest of the house. The 18" roller is definitely something I am going to invest in.
Thanks, Brad!
You bet!
Two comments, Brad. First, I'm terrible at cutting in along trim. I've used a pad like the first one with great results. It was also a different brand. I start on the wall away from the edge and move into it. Works well for me. Second, I have a trim roller like the second one but it is a regular roller cover, just shorter. I can cut a regular roller, trim the fuzzy edges and away I go. That's cheaper than the small replacement rollers. My favorite pattern these days is watching someone else painting instead of me.
Bill
Oh, nice tip about just cutting down a big roller. Also, I totally agree, someone else painting should be tip 7, lol
@@Fixthisbuildthat Bandsaw works great for cutting rollers down. 🙂
I cut down my rollers too. Better.selection and much cheaper.
Enjoyed the video, thank you!
Thanks, man!
I usually used the paint grid when working from a ladder with exterior jobs.
Great use case
A tip with painter's tape. After you apply it, spray it with a bit of water.
This will activate the edge. Then no paint can migrate behind it. This also eliminates the need for the tape to "set-up". Which it never really does when dry.
This will also allow the tape to be removed with less risk of the paint under the tape being removed as well.
huh, never heard that one. interesting
Water on tape activates the edges. 🤦♂️😂😂😂
Agreed on the edge trim tool. Never worked right for me either.
I wonder if they ever eve work for the inventors, lol
No kidding. Or is it just an easy money grab?
They're a big seller because they work. You just have to load it with paint. You can claim a brush doesn't work but when you have paint on half of it, it's not a very good argument haha
Sureline brand edger is great. There's a learning curve. I've been using it for 10+ years and I never use tape.
Love the videos mate , us subscribers never know what video will be next but we are all waiting
I have a bed room coming up for painting real soon. The 18" roller would speed that up. But, will cost more up front from what I have seen
yes, the large rollers definitely cost more. For one room probably not worth it. But if you plan to paint more then I'd say go for it. And make sure to clean and reuse the roller cover
Thanks Brad. I have always used tape, but I have never intentionally left the tape untouched for 30 minutes or scored after the paint dries. This would explain my mixed results with painters' tape.
The biggest downside to all these foam pads and roller things is cleaning them afterwards; it often takes longer than the painting itself.
It is astonishing how much paint a foam pad or roller can hold even after you think you've used it all.
Here's a little trick that I've been using for cutting an inside corner when doing 2 different colors of paint (for an accent wall) using painter's tape.. Use a wider tape, say 2".. lay that tape down in the corner so that a little bit extends on to the wall you're cutting on. Then use a plastic putty knife (or some other thin object, a stir stick will also work) and push the tape into the corner. Lastly, take a razor blade, lay it flat on the wall you're cutting and run it down the corner, trimming that small strip of tape off.... To get a better grip of the razor, you can tape it to the end of a stir stick to give it a longer handle to hold on to. This method has worked well for me to get nice straight lines👍
Do you not have the large paint pads (like the edger tool but flat) in the US? I use these all the time, I find they are as fast or faster than a normal size roller but imo they leave a nicer texture than a roller and there is no splatter if you go fast with a roller or if you are painting overhead like a ceiling. I also think because of the sponge layer that they hold a lot more paint so dont have to top up as often and less likely to drip. Like others have said you need to load up the paint properly so it soaks into the sponge. With practice you can also use them as an edge tool, although I love those too. And yes brands matter, some of the real cheap ones seem to shed hairs, like cheap brushes do
Pretty interesting tools indeed, Brad! 😃
Thanks for all the testing!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, MC!
“You really have to push it in there!”
- Susan.
Excellent video. I love an honest review. Thank you
You are so welcome!
The landlord receptival technique 😂lol
Awesome. Saw that in almost every rental I lived in!
Landlord school 😂….
That was fun:)! Have the same impressions, I tape, wife can paint perfect line with brush only. Regarding tape, I didn't realize you had to let it set for 30 mins. Maybe that's why I get some paint infiltrating at times. Gadgets never work for me. Too hard to hold, trim which the rollers roll against isn't always smooth so paint line can be jagged. Extra large roller with dual support looks awesome.
Wooten makes a five gallon bucket for 18” rollers called the Wide Boy bucket. Liners and a lid are available. You can also get plastic grids like the metal one you used in the standard 5 gallon bucket.
My favorite is the Wooster shortcut paint brush that you showed on camera -
You can also use caulking along the trim
I love that shorty!
My wife loves these but they cause my larger hands to cramp so I have to just use a good quality, edging brush. Which is what I’d recommend over just about all these “time savers”.
The bucket grid has certain benefits, especially for large rooms, but one thing that really starts to wear you down is that you have to completely invert your pole for every load (versus 90° for a tray). It also makes your roller more drippy and the inside walls of the bucket inevitably start to dry up and booger on you.
I love the grid and bucket too but like Brad I wish there were a way to use a wider roller
I spread the paint with the W. And I love the grates esp for drip management, covering the bucket for a second coat later, seems faster. I’ll have to try the 18” roller.
Good information. Thank You
Glad it was helpful!
Edge trim tool: don't dip it in the paint, use a brush to manually saturate it with about 1/4 cup of paint; mostly in the middle and work it out to the edges. once the pad is fully loaded I can usually get about 10-15 feet of fine edging with it. I follow along quickly after with a brush to flatten that back ridge you spoke of.
Excellent tip! The neater you are with the trim tool the better it will work.
The tape with the clear caulking trick is awesome for crisp lines. Does require taping, but man It works well. Thank you, for mentioning to take off the face plate and tape the receptacle. Takes way less time than cutting in and makes for a way better paint job without paint on your plugs! Its a huge pet peeve for me.
As for the 9" vs 19" roller: You vs the guy she told you not to worry about.
I’ve found if I tape a whole room, I have as many errors with tape as I do with just cutting in. I reserve it for final touch ups or places that really need a perfect cut to prevent a 3rd round of touch ups.
I learned from a professional painter on how to cut-in. I use a stiff bristle 3 in. brush. Load it up and then press it hard on an angle so that the bristles bend in an ark. Then push the ark of the brush up to the edge and pull across. The big brush holds a lot of paint and you can get a long pull on each brush load.
If you are going to tape trim, I use a small diameter nap roller that has one end covered and Im able to cut in the trim and corners in no time.
This is more of a side-note... but that picture-in-picture insert of you talking about Scotch Tape while the background showed you in fast-motion completing your taping... that's the most innovative "ad placement" I've ever seen and it is 100x better than the usual "stop the video so that I can hock this product that is unrelated to the video" moments that most YTubers do. Well done, sir!!! I'm going out and buying Scotch tape right now just because you did this!
When I was a kid that flat trimmer with rollers, my dad bought one and at least back then it worked pretty well and that was almost 50 years ago. Been around a long time. Now back to. The show
The reveal at the end! I was asking myself the question all video
A good painting tool to review is the Graco airless roller
Great video
The rectangle pad for cutting in edges works amazing. Maybe not the behr one you have, but I got a cheap one from home depot that works absolutely great. Way faster than cutting in with a brush. Also, I saw a foam one with no wheels that was like $2 at walmart which I'm definitely going to try. If you have problem with the paint transferring from the pad itself to the trim, it's because you dipped it too deep in the paint to begin with.
Watching the entire time legitimately wondering if you left the tape on purpose or if you genuinely forgot about it.....
😜
Must admit that red line looks cool 😎
There's a reason why pros don't use those edging tools. When taking on a project you're not familiar with, it's usually a good idea to look at the tools and techniques pros in that particular trade use and try to do the same.
Pros tend to be traditional and resist new-fangled gadgets. Bet your happy the paint roller caught on.
@mykstreja8648 And sprayers, nailguns, chainsaws...the list goes on. Fair point. But those little paint edger gadgets have been around for a long time, and the pros haven't adopted them.
I have a rectangular bucket with a grate in it just for those 18" rollers. It's awesome when you have large area's to do.
That sounds awesome
@4:20 how did it function from a usage perspective? I know those "hot dog" ones will push or slide rather than roll the first couple of passes. So does that one roll better like a full roller does?
Lamb/sheep wool rollers. They’ll change your painting life. Spend the extra money.
Do they make tray liners for the 18" paint trays? Also, with the 18" paint tray what is the best way to save the paint overnight?
The time I tried one of those edgers I did not have High Hopes but I thought hey if it works it might save me some time. But my experience was it left all sorts of little tiny pieces of fiber in the paint that came out of the phone thing plus it really didn't give a straight line. It was very messy.
A little trick to do the corners super fast that’ll have the same color is a 4/6 inch hotdog microfiber roller. Roll one corner flush and roll the other about 1/2 inch off the edge. Comes out perfect
« Twice the size, half the time ! » that says it all 🤣
best things about the grid and bucket method, holds more paint, takes up less floor space,, less likely to trip over, easier to move
If I'm painting over 1 gallon I'm using my pressurized paint stick or my Graco Magnum 5 with a power roller attached if I can't spray. Cleanup time is similar and I'm not wasting half my time painting a pan. 3/8 Nap rollers hold more paint than a foam roller when you're doing small trim and less prone to drips.
Taping requires some skills and will create a much straighter line. But it has to be put on straight. It also has to be pushed down all the way or the paint will bleed.
Another factor to consider with how the 18" roller can save a bunch of time is the time it can save with the giant paint tray you use with it, especially if you're doing a very large area. The normal 9" has to get refilled way more often over the course of an entire room while you might be able to fill your 18" tray once and then you're good for the whole room. I'd also expect that you'd save more time with an 18" roller over the course of an entire room than you did with your small test area since you'd be refilling your paint roller with paint at least twice as much with the 9" roller.
Ooh, something to consider if you do use the grate with the 5 gallon bucket for the 9" roller, it makes moving around your area with your paint and roller sooooo much easier since you can leave your roller in the bucket and it'll stay standing up and it's a whole lot easier to pick up the bucket with a handle compared to a normal paint tray that likely will need 2 hands and will require you to be extra careful to make sure you don't spill. Another added bonus to the grate which I made use of a ton when I did some painting for a summer job was that it could make storing your roller (or rollers) during a job super easy. The job I was doing kind of required me to jump around to some different things and not always get all of the painting done at the same time. If I had to stop painting for the day and come back the next day or even if I just had to run out to do something else for a couple hours and come back, I'd just unhook the grate from the side of the bucket, slide it all the way into the bucket, take the extension handle off of my roller and drop it in the bucket as well, and throw a lid on there which would seal things up, keeping the roller from drying out. It usually would work especially well if there was a decent amount of paint still left in the bottom.
Okay, but what about rollers versus spray guns? What are the time differences there?
For cutting without tape I find a long handled 2" angled sash brush works best for me. I feel that I have better control using a long sash brush than a stubby cutting brush.
ohhhh, never thought of that.
not gonna lie....when you pulled that piece of tape (which I was screaming into the computer about) I let out a sigh of OCD relief.
Water is the secret with latex. I always got streaks or uneven coverage no matter the tool. A pro painter I knew told me to always dampen my tools before painting with them. Water will thin the initial paint enough to make it go on more evenly. Also after about 30 minutes of using a tool (or whenever you start getting “blotchy” paint) to re-wet the tool. This even applies to the little pad trimmers.
great tip! I also pre-wet my brush, but not roller covers. I should try that
I’ve found out the the paint grid is harder to clean after paint has started to dry on it. Paint will also flake off and stick to the roller leaving small chunks on the wall.
oh that's a good point. I did have some dried paint on the edges, but most came off on the cetner
it appeared to me that the 18" roller assembly was adjustable in width. The thumb screws allow it to go down to a 9" size maybe? Benefit, of course, being it's a 2-in-1 tool AND you get the added support on both sides of the 9" that you liked with 18"
It does adjust but only down to 12”. That’s a good idea though!
I have ADHD and a high metabolism and my hands shake. I *can't* cut in with just a brush, so it's always tape for me. I'm always looking for painting tips around how to use tape right and which tape to use.
It wld have been nice to have this video 2 months ago.. 😂 we just bought a new house and had to paint the whole thing
Effective comparison, Brad. Thank you! I've used the bucket and grate before and prefer it if the job is big enough to warrant it, more than a gallon's worth. I've never tried wide rollers, but have seen them used, even longer than 18".
One thing you did not cover, that I wish you had, at least briefly, is cost. Tape, pans, rollers, edge pads, they all cost money and unless you've got deep pockets - and if you did, why would you do your own painting - you want to be cost conscious. A cost per square foot with different tools would be helpful. How about it? You've already got most of the data.
You are appreciated.
most of this stuff is pretty low cost, so I didn't think about doing price comparison. But it does add up
I’ve done enough painting to know I haven’t done enough painting to not use tape
I guarantee that you're a better painter than I. Without tape, I might just as well throw the can at the wall.
BTW, I like the pads. Use a brush to load up the pad or use a tray made for the pad (with a roller to pick paint up from the tray to the pad. Yes, a brush is still needed to get into small places. The same brush can be used to load the pad and knock down the thick paint line at the edge. It just takes a second to do it.
I hate brushing paint on walls. I always get brush marks.
I use the 'W' pattern to spread he paint then up/down to finish it.
I notice you using the handle extension. What an epiphany that was when I first used one. I have them from 1' to 8' (double that, extended). Buy good tools and good paint, even for this rank amateur (and want it to stay that way). It makes one of the worst jobs around the house, just a little bit less worse.
I would also add in the 30 min you said the tape had to set up - you can just get up and go with no tape.
You got the really badly designed edger pad. The Shur-line is the best. They have one that has an edge guard that you pull back and forth with a trigger. As for the thick line of paint on the edge, just take the pad and swipe it and you're good to go! If you have the good one that i mentioned, you can cut out a room fairly quick with it!
I painted our second bedroom with Glidden ‘witchcraft’ (a deeeeep blue-black) on 2 walls. Rolled on the first coat, then cam back over them with a 3” brush in a crisscross to not only hit small ‘misses’ but also hide roller pattern. (FWIW, ‘one coat’ paints generally aren’t!)
It’s been almost 2 years, I want to go back on and finish the room. For an ~11’ x 11’ room, it’s cozy but not depressing. Two windows (one east & one not) bring in plenty of natural light.
Always been too scared to go with a dark dark room...seems like a commitment, lol
Certain blues can have pretty bad coverage. Also sounds like it was a pretty big color change, which is virtually never one coat. And also... Glidden. Next time take your color chip to a Sherwin or Ben Moore and they can match it exactly, you'll have a better shot (and a better finish).
@@Fixthisbuildthat I figured, it’s paint. Worst case, I’d prime and repaint. 👍
And, started with only painting the two walls w/windows. The wall color (and ceiling still is) was a boring soft butter yellow color. The whole house is that bland, ‘safe’ neutral.
I’ve since painted a wall in the dining area a neat, deep gray-green color. Reminds me of stormy skies when I lived on Galveston Island. Then I painted a couple of walls in an orange shade in our cramped closet when I redid the space. Added a mirror in there, too. The white Ikea Billy shelves & the mirror break up the color, so it’s not too much, but it’s fun.
Next? Living room wall.
@@BenRoth4 where did I say I needed critique? Where did I say I was dismayed at the outcome?
In my comment, I didn’t say I required any help or guidance, I’m VERY pleased with the outcome.
And I’ve done lighter paints on lighter walls that still needed two coats, not Glidden, btw. Everything was stirred very well, and I chose to hand brush the second coat FOR THE EFFECT I wanted.
Please go offer help to someone who asked for the input.
@@Fixthisbuildthat oh, forgot to add: I LOOOVE the Wooster angle cutting-in brush. That firm, yet flexible looped handle is comfy! And the little red paint bucket always got me enough paint to get to the next step. Taping is my kryptonite, I just tuck on in, but I do use a drop cloth.
Thanks for this video!
I had the same experience 20+ years ago with the edger paint tool and corner tool. Nothing changed. I've tried many different painters' tape and never got a better result with tape versus without. The TWO BIG TIPS for painting - 1.) Don't cheap out on the paint - been using Behr paint 40 years. 2.) Buy the BEST 4" paint brush you can afford and take care of it like an expensive sports car - obsessively fully clean it after EVERY use making sure the bristles are supple and firm. I've never used an 18" roller. Looks great to me. Been loading a 9" roller straight from a 5 gal bucket for over 40 years.
I know people who buy new paint brushes for each job. Drives me crazy!
That's just laziness with more money than cents.@@Fixthisbuildthat
Hi Brad, what is the name of the color paint you are using? Love the color! 😄
Agreeable Gray, very popular color!
Thank you!!
The 18" roller looks great but the cost is about the same as 3-pack of regular 9" rollers. Once I'm done painting the room I just throw the roller out and move onto the next room. That would mean buying another 18" roller, or just grabbing a second 9" out of the package and I'd still have one leftover. I agree with you on the sturdiness of the 18" roller though. I wonder if they make a 9" with support on both sides? Googling...
Hey Scotch! I pay attention to who sponsors my favorite channels when I shop. Just saying, great video.
I’m not into all the gadgets but I do like the big roller it’s a lot quicker
Foam loves to leave turds to. Mini roller is easier to de fuzz and just send it while doing cut in with your paint pot.
16:10 it's a feature. Leave it like this 😆
What is the colour/brand of the paint you used?
Behr Premium Plus in Agreeable Gray
18 inch roller is this microfiber ?
they are available in microfiber and lambs wool
@@Fixthisbuildthat home depot doesn't sell lambs wool now its frustrating dealing with stores that used to sell things now they don't.
@@brettmullins751Sherwin can order them for you (1/2" only I think). I used the same one literally every day for almost a year. You just gotta be diligent about cleaning it.
I've been using pads for years. I prefer them. But at the end of the day, it's personal preference.
Did you find the weight of the 18” roller to be more tiring in the arms?
I didn't, but I was only doing a small area. I imagine doing ceilings with it would be taxing
You mention specifically that you're using the delicate tape for the chair railing because it was painted yesterday. Is it best practice to paint the moldings/trims first and the wall later? Or did you do that just for purposes of the video?
My personal preference is to paint the baseboard after the walls. No matter what you do you'll get splatter from rolling the walls. I used to do the baseboard before the walls until I noticed that the wall paint was splattering on the nice new white baseboards. I imagine the chair rail would be the same.
I prefer painting trim first because I'd rather had wall paint on the trim than trim paint on the wall if that makes sense. But you can do it either way
@@Fixthisbuildthat I was wondering if it was just easier to get the paint on/off the trim than on the wall itself. Only painting I have ever done is touchup paint at the end of my leases lol
The edge/corner pads are NOT all the same. The brand escapes me but 12 years ago I used one that was fantastic. Better options ARE out there.
The cost of the tape is a good incentive to practice cutting in well.
I’m pretty sure those colors are from late 90’s, early 2000’s. Other than that, great info. 😊
Oh, that trim is def early to mid 90’s though.
If your new to painting stick with a 12 in roller . .. .less mess, and lower cost if you trash the roller. . .
Im not sure if I'm more shocked about Brad's joke at 15:38 about "The one she told you not to worry about." Or the fact the no one seems to have noticed or be commenting about it. 🤣
What makes the paint peel off when the paint dries and you removed the tape?? Every single time I have the paint coming off with the tape. Help please.
You need to score the line between the tape and paint if you let it dry.
You have to load the pad up with a paint brush is how I use it.
It may have been mentioned, but I think it needs emphasizing here. Even though Behr put its name on the trimmer, that doesn't mean it's a good quality trimmer. It's a promotional item, and that issue with the edge wheels told the story. Get a quality trimmer and _quality pads_ before you judge edging pads. Painting with cheap pads is like painting with a wire brush. Another trick, face the wheels away from the paint when loading the pad with paint. This will help with keeping the wheels clean. Note that the wheels should stick out past the pad by a small margin so you don't rub the edge against the trim. Lastly, pads have a grain. Follow the directions for putting the pad on the edger so you don't get that raised line at the back or skips at the trim.
Just curious did you get out of rental properties if so how come it sounds like a good passive income source?
Yes, I sold them once I moved out of state. They can be great, but can also be a big headache, especially when you aren't around to make sure management companies are doing what they say they are
@@Fixthisbuildthat thanks for sharing
What color is that paint?!?!?
I’m a painter and decorator for 20 years and watching anybody paint who isint a tradesman is just so hard 😂
lol, I apologize for the pain I know I inflicted on you
That being said I Love your videos
If one is not in a rush to get the painting done, then taping the room off with painters tape is the way to go. At least that's how i have always done it with great results! To each his own. But let's face facts, we all hate painting! 😉😉👍👍
Is it me, or did you not cut in the underside of the chair rail ?
i hand cut in both sides. Since the edge is hidden underneath I don't tape it
18 inchers are good when you gotta haul ass. But i can run more paint longer in a bucket.
Best to roll from bucket. Trays are garbage and slow you down, which is why the big rollers can be a pain.
Need to rock a better roller cover and it takes some time to learn to load the roller.
You mentioned having to wait 30 minutes for the painter’s tape to set. I think that should be part of the calculation because you can’t do anything during that time. Without tape you can keep going. Just my 2 cents.
you can't do anything on the newly taped area. But you can surely cut in corners and start painting the first part of the room you taped 30 min ago :) Since it's not active time invested I didn't count it
@@Fixthisbuildthat that makes sense. Thanks!
A freebie, don't wash the paint tray. Wait until it completely dries and just pull the paint off! Double freebie sometimes this will even remove old paint if you find a garage sale tray or whatever.
The paint pad is the way to go. That's the actual painting action of your edge trimmer. Though you did your best to make it look bad. Uses way less paint, covers far more evenly and you can paint a whole room in minutes. Are you a paint salesman? Or hoping for advertising dollars from paint manufacturers? They hate paint pads...which is weird, because I seriously doubt it would affect them at all if people knew how easy it is to paint a whole house with one. They'd probably sell MORE paint, than they do with the paint-wasting methods they promote because more people would paint more often. Paint pads are amazing!
I think you just didn't know how to use the edge painter properly... I think it's a great tool. It has saved me many many hours. You should definitely give it a second chance.