I cannot believe how simple and detailed are your videos, 10 years later and still valid, what everyone on the web fails to mention is, when changing out your rear tire, this should be a mandatory check since you loosened the belt and all the bolts, I felt something was missing and I came here looking for your videos, thank you and keep it up. You might not reply but for anyone reading this, subscribe and listen to his teachings, you’ll be more knowledgeable at the end.
Thanks mate, it was a response to a direct request, it shows that riders need to know these things, they can save you money, and possible problems with neglect... thanks for watching.. Del.
Hi buddy, glad it helps you, that is why we post them, not only is it good to save money, but it enriches the pride of ownership in your bike to have taken care of it's needs and looked after it mechanically yourself...good luck and ride safe, my friend, Del
Ade, you are so right, i take a look around at the biker meet places i go to, and time and again ill see a bike with consumables that are way out of thier use limit, and the owners story is the same every time.."i have to wait till i get paid so i can book it in with the dealer. the dealer isnt the bad guy, just to them, he is 'the ONLY guy'.. if all of those of us who DO know 'how-to' spread the knowledge and helped other bikers, the feeling of family would return to biking.. thanks buddy, Del.
Just bought my first bike - a 2008 sportster roadster, and have been searching how-to articles. Your videos always end up being the ones that are the most informative and complete. Thanks for the help!
Hey buddy...yeah if the ground wire is touching and being rubbed, then i would move it...but Penny's one is close too, and it doesn't touch...if you look close for any rubbing marks and its untouched...then you can leave it alone.. only more it if its being rubbed... thanks for your kind support mate, and enjoy the Iron... cheers, Del.
great vid as always mate.....totally agree with helping new owners with their rides with vital maintenance like this. no doubt there are quite a few peeps out there who know their belts / chains are well overdue for adjusting and just aint got the monetary means to take it to a dealer etc or the know-how and just `trust to luck` the bloody thing stays on !!! highly dangerous, if not lethal of course. vids like this play a big part i reckon in keeping many, many peeps safe and happy. cheers Ade
Hi Gurn, i cant believe the shop left the bike in an unsafe condition... unbeleiveably dangerous and im glad your pop was not hurt, it is important not to make it too tight, and they can squeek a bit when they are new, if you keep an eye on it to make sure the tension remains in scope then you should be fine... im glad it helped you mate, and thanks for posing the question.. these things often help many other people at the same time.... ride safe buddy... Del.
I have seen about a dozen videos on how to adjust the belt and every time, I have a question about one thing or another. Finally, I found yours! Very well done!!! You explained it exactly the way a novice such as myself needed. Thank you so much!
I don't know if you're a licensed mechanic or not but your breakdown is genius. No special tools, no unnecessary fuss & to the point. Love the nail varnish trick! Thanks for making the video!
Hi mate, I will be doing some maintenance on Penny's new Harley shortly! ... It's great that you do your own work, they are a simple bike and not too complex to get to grips with ... I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment, it's great to have such kind support... take care, Cheers Del & Penny
Just caught your video here. You're spot on with the way mechanics or owner manuals explain things. Like they're a genius using sophisticated words. Really like the way you explain things, like you said, explaining it like you're talking to someone who has never done the job before. You've helped me out more than once with the videos. Appreciate all you and your miss's are doing. Have a great day and keep the shiny side up.
Thank you John, that's very encouraging to hear that, naturally, any audience is varied from absolute beginners to qualified professionals and it's always a worry that you could, maybe, patronise people by over explaining the obvious... but, of course, to the absolute beginner, nothing is obvious! And we've always pitched our videos at those who can use them the most to their benefit, so we appreciate the appreciation, if that makes sense!
Excellent! Every video you do is complete, concise and very easy to follow. You never 'assume' anything which is what sets you apart from everyone else. Thank you and hope you are recovering well.
Thank you for your kind feedback Gerald, it's a pleasure to help and good to know that what we do finds an audience. Making progress with the recovery, a day at a time.
Exactly what I needed to hear my friend!! I didn't quite understand the inner workings of the adjuster and how it actually pulls the axle or pushes the axle!! Now I've got it!! My problem actually was I took my bike to a local shop for a new belt, my pop picked the bike up for me and got two blocks away and the wheel fell off!! The shop got me some new parts and fixed it, but the past week the belt has been squeaking. I check the tension and it is tighter than all get out!! I couldn't move the
No atall, its a valid question, the swing arm moves in an arc, and that arc is often at its tightest point when down on its wheels...but as long as you check the belt deflection on the jiffy stand then again on the lift, and it is the same...then you have proved there is no difference so it doesnt matter... the reason i suggest to make the alighnment setting with the bike upright is that the weight is central, the main issue is to check it once it all done back up to be sure, thanks again, Del.
Right on, it's nice to find someone on here who can explain stuff about my sportster, only cause I want to learn about it and save some bucks by doing it myself
Yeah, everything is easy if you know how.... it's important to pass on the things we know to anyone who can use it...thats what the brotherhood of biking is all about, and has been a bit forgotten in the modern 'plug and play' bike market.... thanks for your comments... take care.. Del.
thanks for the knowledge most dealers here in the States won't give you any information you either have to pay them or figure it out yourself your videos are most helpful thanks
Hey Curtis, i guess its not in their interest to hand you the knowledge they prefer to charge you for.... but ive always thought this to be reverse thinking...if any dealer or garage would support you as a customer, help you out and make life as easy as they can for you... then you are way more likely to go back for your next bike aye..!!!!??
Glad the video helped you... there's plenty on our Channel to keep you going! There's 350+ on the channel, so I'm sure you'll find more when you need it! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, Cheers Del
I love your videos. As a novice in harley mechanics, (Thats giving me ALOT of credit), i love that you explain the “Why” behind everything. Youre an amazing teacher. Thank you for taking the time to put these out. God bless!
Thank you Cameron, thats very kind of you, im glad you enjoy the videos and can learn a thing or two now and again... ride safe buddy, and keep in touch.. Del.
Nicely done Moonfleet, As someone with a bit of machanical know how, Your explaination of this process should be easily understood by someone without said knowledge. I can work on cars, bikes are a new thing to me. Thanks for taking the time to do these vids. Give a shout out to your camera man/woman. Nice job.
Phew... very comprehensive. For those in a hurry just to see how much deflection is correct without correct tool, jump to 3 minutes to 3 minutes 20 seconds. Thanks for that.
That is exactly why we post them, my friend, I'm glad you enjoy them and hope we can keep saving you a few beans as time goes on ... thanks for taking the time to comment, Cheers Del
Thanks. This as very helpful. I just had to loosen my rear wheel for wiring under the fender. Now my Sportster "tracks" to he right.......So thanks to you, I can go back and get my belt tension and rear wheel alignment correct. Thank you.
Thanks, just started doing all my own maintenance in my Sporty. I have a friend who has a chain driven Road king told me that I needed to adjust my belt. Your video was quite informative. Just check my belt tension and it only move a half inch or less. So it's good. Thanks for the vid. Added it to my fav.'s
Well dpne Otto and thanks for your very kind comments... i just like to help other riders realise that most jobs on a bike are truly not that hard...and 13" apes on a Sporty...very kewl.. lets have a short walk round video then....?.. take care. Del.
Learned so much from you about servicing and taking care of bikes, love your style of teaching and putting things a cross. Love your passion while you doing it too. Oh, and hi Penny, behind any great man there is a great woman.
Man! Excellent video! I have adjusted my belt twice in the past year and never checked to make sure it was parallel. I will be checking it today as I adjust me belt today. :)
I love your opening on this. I don't have a mechanical background, so things that seem very simple to people educated in such matters are complicated and scary for me. Thanks for the videos.
+ExarPalantas Thanks mate, you're very kind, most things on bikes are pretty simple, its just a case of learning how its put together... ride safe and enjoy your bike buddy.. Del.
Love all the helpful tips. I have used your advice to put 13" ape hangers on my 03 sportster couldn't have managed to do it with out your helpful videos thanks and keep it up.
Really nice work, enjoying these instructional videos! One other check I like to make is to sit behind the rear wheel, and rotate the tire/wheel assembly while watching the rear pulley. The belt should track in the middle of the pulley and not drift to either side making contact with the edge of the pulley. It's just a check to make sure you have true parallel alignment.
thank you Delboy,I'm a Boozefighter and ride alot and my belt was really loose(like over an inch) you made this a really easy process bro.. Thanx again
Hey Dan, great to hear from you brother... am glad the information could help, it ain't hard is it , a simple enough proecdure, and it's good to wrench on your own ride right?... and also, thanks for making contact, it's cool to hear from someone from the oldest MC in the world... respect my friend, take care, Del
Moonfleet41 I love working on my own bike.. I'm highly mechanical,already did a Barnett clutch,I was just curious about keeping the wheel true and your way was fool proof.. my wheel was actually 18 3/8" on one side and 18 1/4" on the other before I fixed my belt,now it's truly true.. wish you were here in the States.. I'm a Boozefighter with the BoozeFighter MC.. would be kool to ride together
Oh man always there for us, genius. I was looking to buy a belt adjuster, or atleast that is what Harley calls it. But wondered if I really required it and thats when I thought of you ( as always), and decided to see if you had video on this. I have 2007 Iron 883, love it death. I am actually taking this project a step beyond. I need to change the rear tire. Will be using the the zip tie method to get the tire off and a new one on. If I fail on my try, its off to a local garage to get tire off the rim and the new one on ( The professional way), but hoping it does not come to that. So here is where I have many questions, I have the manual and it has confused me slightly. 1. getting the wheel off no problem 2. Getting the tire off and new one on ( Zip tie method, do google it), hopefully it works 3. Getting the wheel back on. Now thats where I am a little nervous - 1. As soon I take wheel off, I have taken the alignment out completely, 2. The tention on the belt is definitely gone as well. So now I am at the point where I have been able to put the wheel on the axel ( nothing is tightened yet) and back on the bike, that axel has room to move ( this is where the lug nut goes), it can move half an inch back and forth, does it not? so to tighten the belt to the acceptable tightness, where do I start with the wheel? Should I keep it in the center , tighten it slightly and check the belt and get it to the point where it is more or less right ( in terms of belt tightness), and then use the tiny screw to adjust the alignment and fine tune it? or should be doing something different. 3. how much can the tiny screw be moved, its not indefinite obviously. 4. Can you also confirm tightening the tiny screw ( aka turning it clockwise, so moving the screw in), moves the wheel back or forward? I am assuming based on mechanics that it makes the wheel roll a bit from left to right ( out of alignment) and the same screw on the other side (exhaust side) , clockwise bring it back in. In essence would this not loosen the belt again as i am pushing the wheel forward. I really hope this is making sense, as it all makes sense in my head. Either way I am reaching out to a man best suited for this advice . On behalf of everyone thank you for all that you do.
A Shovel...im proper jealous mate, i would love a nice straight, unmolested early 70's 1200 to make my own....good luck with it, and enjoy every moment...life is for the fun bits aye... thanks and take care, Del.
Hi Richard, thank you for your kind words, what you've experienced is exactly what I saw when me & Penny decided to make videos, so many explanations of things leave out vital steps and also worst of all, they tend to presume the viewer has a lot more knowledge than they might, so use in-speak and brevity, when the absolute novice needs it properly explained in lay man's terms and also a little insight into 'why' things are done in order to help with proper understanding of the task..good luck
The only stupid question mate, is the one you don't ask...!!! yes you can adjust belt tension with the bike on the stand...in fact, its irrelevant to do it with the wheel off the deck..(i left it up there while i made the video for ease of demonstration)...the bike will ride with the weight on the wheels, so all adjustments are best made with the weight on the wheels...take care and ride safe.. good luck Del.
I untwist and stretch out a metal coat hanger. After I’ve reached the proper belt tension I bend the ends of the wire coat hanger into ninety degree bends with tips to touch center of front swing arm pin and center of axle. Then I use my coat hanger alignment guide to adjust axle distance from swing arm pin on the opposite side. I keep my alignment tool in the garage and check the center to center distances often to make sure nothing has changed.
Awesome video, I am contemplating changing my neutral switch on my own which requires removing the belt so was checking out your video! Awesome thanks! I don't think I have commented before but your other video have helped me as well!
I usually never comment on the videos.. But I couldn't hold myself back from commenting on these amazing tutorial videos you putup.. Great job done explaining it so well.. Thank you again Mate!!.. Please work upon few more basic tutorials that we could do at home and save few bucks giving mah harley for service.. I own a fat bob just fyi..
OK, there must be a reason why its hitting the belt, it isn't designed to do that, see if you can remove the lead from its mounting, clean it up and re-route it a little so its out of the way, its hard to be exact without seeing your bike, but its just a game or trial and error, and doing what you need to do to make a small gap between them..
Hi mate,I am planning a video on this subject quite soon,but the basic message is to go to a decent tool company like Machine Mart etc.,and buy a good quality basic 'general' kit,it will give you the essentials like screwdrivers, grips, pliers, couple of hammers, basic socket set, etc., then you could add to that some A/F spanners & allen keys, a set of torx bits, which would work on your imperial fasteners & always a spacious toolbox to add future tools...pay for quality & you won't regret it!
Unless the bike has particularly high rear suspension then NO, imagine the swing arm moves through an arc, its tightest when the front pulley and back pulley are level with each other and the ground, as the bike then moves either up or down it loosens off a tiny bit, the presumption is that it is above parallel when unladen, and moves down to parallel when you sit on it..this is not the case if the bike has low shocks, the belt can take a bit of extra tension, its being loose that does damage.
Hi mate, if you have the proper HD service manual form the dealer it covers it in great detail.....but others may not.. the caliper can stay put, but it makes it easier if you unbolt it and slide it forward...its hard to explain every step here and i dont have a video made of it so far. sorry not to be more help mate... good luck with it.
Del the size spanner i use on rear spindle is 1-1/4 or 32mm not as u said 1 1/2 not haveing a go m8 ur vids are very good ive been working on bikes a long time i cant explain as clearly as yourself allso no need to drop the swinging are out when changeing a belt or endless chain remove bottom bolt on drive side shock G
Depending on the bike it should last at least 30k miles, but with meticulous care and retaining the belt guards properly it could last as long as 40-50k miles! All belts over high mileage will pick up nicks & cuts in the teeth & if they are bad, then yes, replace the belt, but generally you won't get that! Good luck with it, Del
I use a different method for rear wheel alignment. With my XL1200C on its side stand, I get my eye about 8" from the floor in front of the bike and turn the front wheel perfectly straight by sighting down the front tire sidewall edge on each side with the sides of the rear tire. Then I walk to the rear and with my eye 8" from the floor, sight down the rear tire sidewall edges to line up with the front tire. It is ultra precise, easily repeatable, takes into account frame or swing arm imperfections, and doesn't require a ruler or measuring tape. It works especially well on my XL1200C because the front tire is nearly as wide as the rear. But it also works great on my sport bike with fat rear tire if I put the bike on a rear stand to make the bike vertical and use 2x4 blocks along the narrower front tire. Sighting from the rear, I line up the rear tire edges with the front blocks. What do you think?
Thanks so much for all the input. When I looked into how to check belt tension according to Harley I would have needed a tool just to check it. Well thanks to you know I know.. Thanks again!! :)
Hi mate...as with all the requests we get, we would need a Sportster with a belt that needed changing...we just load up what we have course to do here in the garage..maybe some day if Discovery step up our involvement and actually pay us for the contributions we make to them...we could make videos on wider subjects...but for now mate, the best thing i could suggest is get the proper genuine HD service manual, its a simple enough task and the manual covers every step...sorry cant be more help Del
Really good vid (though I ain't got a Harley and don't want one), and found the wheel alignment idea great. I'll use it. Was rather disturbed to see what appeared to be a Guzzi 1100 Sport behind you, one of the most beautiful bikes ever made (got one of those), and somebody has plainly vandalized it. If you can find out who it was, I'll get them for you. Thanks for the tips. Steve.
Nice video. Motion Pro makes a really neat and inexpensive tool for checking rear wheel alignment. If you do your own maintenance on your Sportster, I highly recommend it. Also, Harley makes a nice tool to show how much force you are putting on the belt when measuring the deflection. I highly recommend that as well.
Hi Gerald, you are dead right, there are a few tools on the market for checking wheel alignment, but one of the simplest methods, that i didn't mention in this video was to just check the belt tacking in the back pulley, if there is an even gap each side of the belt and the pulley walls, then you're bang on... and thats tool?, Harley call it a "Deflecometer"...lol
Thanks Scott, glad we can help you buddy.. thanks for watching... not sure where in Canada you are, but for some i guess its time to park the bikes up and baton down about now?..
Thanks, I haven't actually ridden the bike, but I need to change the belt anyway as it has the wrong belt fitted (133 teeth instead of 136 ), and I'm fitting an enclosed belt primary kit so I'll be checking the front/rear pulley alignment whilst I'm at it. Could I get away with fitting a 1 1/8" belt instead of the 1 1/2" stock belt ? The fitted one seems to be almost touching the outer pulley plate, but I can't see any signs of it actually rubbing. Thanks again Chris
I have a 2008 sportster custom 1200 , my belt is riding on the rear pulley to the right side , witch side should I adjust it , in or out . To make it ride in the center ?
Might seem like a dumb question - but I noticed you have the bike on a bike hoist. Can you do this adjustment on the side stand? If memory serves me right, the Harley factory service manual mentions that for inspecting belt tension, the bike needs to be on the 'jiffy stand'. It makes no mention under the 'adjustment' section, however. Harleys are a new thing to me...been tinkering on German and Japanese bikes for quite some time. I just want to make sure I don't muck anything up. Thanks!
Thank you for soon answer. It's being rubbed. Any suggestion, where should I move it? I'm really new to bikes, but willing to do everything by myself:)
would you have to rotate the wheel to check for a tight spot and do you need the weight of a person on the seat while checking for said tight spot before adjusting the belt,,,thanks.
Maria Goodman Hi Maria, as it's a lower bike and swing arm is horizontal with the floor, it is at it's tightest point at rest without a rider... and you can rotate the wheel to check for tight spots if you wish, but as the belt stretches to retain tension, you usually won't find any...
Hello Sir, thank you very much for the video. I still have a question, I've a 2005 softail. Do I've to adjust the belt drive on the ground or on a lift? Best Regards, Wilfred
Perfectly ok to make that adjustment on the ground Wilfred, its always best as the weight needs to be on it to mirror the tension it will be under when in use..! Good luck with it.. Del.
yes....has to be the BEST mechanic in the UK hands down!!!would pay him a mil to come to the US and give my Harley Fatboy a overhaul!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!The knowledge and know how is insane. Its amazing how a human being can be so damn smart/ on the mark!!! I only envy his skills!!
Greetings mate! Thanks for this instructional video. After adjusting my bike's drive belt, I noticed that the belt is practically rubbing on the tire. I checked the alignment, and it is fine. Any thoughts on why the drive belt is so close to the side of the rear tire? Thanks!
+Moonfleet41 It's a '96 Sporty 1200, and I'm running a Metzeler 150/80. Before removing the wheel, I noticed that it was adjusted a bit more to the left side than to the right (looking the bike from behind).
+Daniel Carneiro OK, first thing then is the tyre size mate.. your bike came from the factroy with a 130/90/16 back tyre....so you are now running an extra 10mm each side which will bring the tyre closer to the belt by that much... the wider back boot should still fit, but it will be closer. also check the order of the wheel spacers if you have had the wheel out, the spacers must be in the right order to hold the wheel in the correct position... maybe just recheck the alignment, set it from the axle centre to the swing arm centre to be exact..!
Thank you so much for the clear and easy to follow video. I recently purchased a 98 Sportster and the rear wheel alignment was about 1/4 inch off. I got it pretty much exact on both sides (dont know if it would pass NASA inspection for takeoff) but I feel its good, checking with tool and tape. My belt has a deflection between 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch movement in the window (three notches on window). each notch is 1/8 inch according to book). Is this too tight? can the belt be too tight? Thanks again!!
Hi there... good to hear you;re getting into it, all cool to do these things yourself.. wit the belt tension, ive never been a fan of running them too tight, specially in really cold weather, so i set all mine to about 1/2 inch deflection and it works just fine... of course the manual may suggest tighter.. but this works for me.... hope that helps you out.. good luck. .Del.
@@Moonfleet41 thanks so much for responding. I went back and reset the wheel. I now have the deflection set to 1/2 inch. I feel good about this. I think I was a little too tight before. Thanks again.
I cannot believe how simple and detailed are your videos, 10 years later and still valid, what everyone on the web fails to mention is, when changing out your rear tire, this should be a mandatory check since you loosened the belt and all the bolts, I felt something was missing and I came here looking for your videos, thank you and keep it up. You might not reply but for anyone reading this, subscribe and listen to his teachings, you’ll be more knowledgeable at the end.
Thanks mate, it was a response to a direct request, it shows that riders need to know these things, they can save you money, and possible problems with neglect... thanks for watching.. Del.
Hi buddy, glad it helps you, that is why we post them, not only is it good to save money, but it enriches the pride of ownership in your bike to have taken care of it's needs and looked after it mechanically yourself...good luck and ride safe, my friend, Del
I've had my 883 custom for just over a year now and your videos are always my go to if I need information. Bless you both. Ride safe.
Thank you Stuart, glad we can help, stay in touch, and drop us a line whenever you need to ! All the best, D&Px
Ade, you are so right, i take a look around at the biker meet places i go to, and time and again ill see a bike with consumables that are way out of thier use limit, and the owners story is the same every time.."i have to wait till i get paid so i can book it in with the dealer. the dealer isnt the bad guy, just to them, he is 'the ONLY guy'.. if all of those of us who DO know 'how-to' spread the knowledge and helped other bikers, the feeling of family would return to biking.. thanks buddy, Del.
Just bought my first bike - a 2008 sportster roadster, and have been searching how-to articles. Your videos always end up being the ones that are the most informative and complete. Thanks for the help!
You're most welcome buddy....drop us a line any time if you need a hand... happy to advise..... where are you in the world mate..?
I'm in Kansas City, Kansas, USA. I appreciate the offer and might just take you up on it sometime!
Starting on a belt adjustment now, thanks to your video.
bigzzzt
You're most welcome sir....im glad we can help... always here.. any time. Del.
Hey buddy...yeah if the ground wire is touching and being rubbed, then i would move it...but Penny's one is close too, and it doesn't touch...if you look close for any rubbing marks and its untouched...then you can leave it alone.. only more it if its being rubbed... thanks for your kind support mate, and enjoy the Iron... cheers, Del.
great vid as always mate.....totally agree with helping new owners with their rides with vital maintenance like this. no doubt there are quite a few peeps out there who know their belts / chains are well overdue for adjusting and just aint got the monetary means to take it to a dealer etc or the know-how and just `trust to luck` the bloody thing stays on !!! highly dangerous, if not lethal of course. vids like this play a big part i reckon in keeping many, many peeps safe and happy. cheers Ade
Hi Gurn, i cant believe the shop left the bike in an unsafe condition... unbeleiveably dangerous and im glad your pop was not hurt, it is important not to make it too tight, and they can squeek a bit when they are new, if you keep an eye on it to make sure the tension remains in scope then you should be fine... im glad it helped you mate, and thanks for posing the question.. these things often help many other people at the same time.... ride safe buddy... Del.
I have seen about a dozen videos on how to adjust the belt and every time, I have a question about one thing or another. Finally, I found yours! Very well done!!! You explained it exactly the way a novice such as myself needed. Thank you so much!
I just found your videos and I really like your common sense approach to repair. very well done.thanks
+David Rosell Thanks mate, much appreciated !
instaBlaster
I don't know if you're a licensed mechanic or not but your breakdown is genius. No special tools, no unnecessary fuss & to the point. Love the nail varnish trick! Thanks for making the video!
Hi mate, I will be doing some maintenance on Penny's new Harley shortly! ... It's great that you do your own work, they are a simple bike and not too complex to get to grips with ... I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment, it's great to have such kind support... take care, Cheers Del & Penny
Just caught your video here. You're spot on with the way mechanics or owner manuals explain things. Like they're a genius using sophisticated words. Really like the way you explain things, like you said, explaining it like you're talking to someone who has never done the job before. You've helped me out more than once with the videos. Appreciate all you and your miss's are doing. Have a great day and keep the shiny side up.
Thank you John, that's very encouraging to hear that, naturally, any audience is varied from absolute beginners to qualified professionals and it's always a worry that you could, maybe, patronise people by over explaining the obvious... but, of course, to the absolute beginner, nothing is obvious! And we've always pitched our videos at those who can use them the most to their benefit, so we appreciate the appreciation, if that makes sense!
Excellent! Every video you do is complete, concise and very easy to follow. You never 'assume' anything which is what sets you apart from everyone else. Thank you and hope you are recovering well.
Thank you for your kind feedback Gerald, it's a pleasure to help and good to know that what we do finds an audience. Making progress with the recovery, a day at a time.
I have to echo what Bobab said two years ago: Excellent tutorial! I'm doing that very job today and now it'll be a piece of cake! Thanks, Delboy!
Thanks Bob, am glad it could help you, it's wonderful he videos still have use after all these years! Good luck with yours...
Thanks for your very kind comments, its great to have such loyal support... ride safe, Del.
Exactly what I needed to hear my friend!! I didn't quite understand the inner workings of the adjuster and how it actually pulls the axle or pushes the axle!! Now I've got it!! My problem actually was I took my bike to a local shop for a new belt, my pop picked the bike up for me and got two blocks away and the wheel fell off!! The shop got me some new parts and fixed it, but the past week the belt has been squeaking. I check the tension and it is tighter than all get out!! I couldn't move the
No atall, its a valid question, the swing arm moves in an arc, and that arc is often at its tightest point when down on its wheels...but as long as you check the belt deflection on the jiffy stand then again on the lift, and it is the same...then you have proved there is no difference so it doesnt matter... the reason i suggest to make the alighnment setting with the bike upright is that the weight is central, the main issue is to check it once it all done back up to be sure, thanks again, Del.
The best maintenance instrucional video I have ever seen here. No questions left in my mind after watching. Many thanks!!
Thanks Adam, im glad it could help you out buddy..
Right on, it's nice to find someone on here who can explain stuff about my sportster, only cause I want to learn about it and save some bucks by doing it myself
Yeah, everything is easy if you know how.... it's important to pass on the things we know to anyone who can use it...thats what the brotherhood of biking is all about, and has been a bit forgotten in the modern 'plug and play' bike market.... thanks for your comments... take care.. Del.
thanks for the knowledge most dealers here in the States won't give you any information you either have to pay them or figure it out yourself your videos are most helpful
thanks
Hey Curtis, i guess its not in their interest to hand you the knowledge they prefer to charge you for.... but ive always thought this to be reverse thinking...if any dealer or garage would support you as a customer, help you out and make life as easy as they can for you... then you are way more likely to go back for your next bike aye..!!!!??
Glad the video helped you... there's plenty on our Channel to keep you going! There's 350+ on the channel, so I'm sure you'll find more when you need it! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, Cheers Del
By far the best videos out there, thank you
Hi Justin...Camera Girl is my Penny Pitstop...and she makes the channel what it is....cheers mate. Del.
I love your videos. As a novice in harley mechanics, (Thats giving me ALOT of credit), i love that you explain the “Why” behind everything. Youre an amazing teacher. Thank you for taking the time to put these out. God bless!
Thank you Cameron, thats very kind of you, im glad you enjoy the videos and can learn a thing or two now and again... ride safe buddy, and keep in touch.. Del.
Nicely done Moonfleet, As someone with a bit of machanical know how, Your explaination of this process should be easily understood by someone without said knowledge. I can work on cars, bikes are a new thing to me. Thanks for taking the time to do these vids. Give a shout out to your camera man/woman. Nice job.
Phew... very comprehensive.
For those in a hurry just to see how much deflection is correct without correct tool, jump to 3 minutes to 3 minutes 20 seconds.
Thanks for that.
That is exactly why we post them, my friend, I'm glad you enjoy them and hope we can keep saving you a few beans as time goes on ... thanks for taking the time to comment, Cheers Del
Moonfleet41 does it need to be jacked up first
Del, u are the best u are on point, its not the first time i have asked u a question, u answer in a fast manner. A plus to u brother take care.
Thanks. This as very helpful. I just had to loosen my rear wheel for wiring under the fender. Now my Sportster "tracks" to he right.......So thanks to you, I can go back and get my belt tension and rear wheel alignment correct. Thank you.
Thanks, just started doing all my own maintenance in my Sporty. I have a friend who has a chain driven Road king told me that I needed to adjust my belt. Your video was quite informative. Just check my belt tension and it only move a half inch or less. So it's good. Thanks for the vid. Added it to my fav.'s
Well dpne Otto and thanks for your very kind comments... i just like to help other riders realise that most jobs on a bike are truly not that hard...and 13" apes on a Sporty...very kewl.. lets have a short walk round video then....?.. take care. Del.
Thanks Milo, just truckin along buddy... oh yeah.. thakns for watching. Del.
Learned so much from you about servicing and taking care of bikes, love your style of teaching and putting things a cross. Love your passion while you doing it too. Oh, and hi Penny, behind any great man there is a great woman.
Thanks mate, you said that right... Penny is the driving force behind the videos, and I wouldn't do it without her! Thanks
Thanks Rick, just spreadin' the love..lol... thanks for watching buddy...
Man! Excellent video! I have adjusted my belt twice in the past year and never checked to make sure it was parallel. I will be checking it today as I adjust me belt today. :)
I love your opening on this. I don't have a mechanical background, so things that seem very simple to people educated in such matters are complicated and scary for me. Thanks for the videos.
+ExarPalantas Thanks mate, you're very kind, most things on bikes are pretty simple, its just a case of learning how its put together... ride safe and enjoy your bike buddy.. Del.
Well done! Great video. Concise and to the point and clearly instructs how to do the job at hand. Perfect.
Love all the helpful tips. I have used your advice to put 13" ape hangers on my 03 sportster couldn't have managed to do it with out your helpful videos thanks and keep it up.
I just bought my first shovelhead and am bound and determined to work on it myself!!! Will be using your channel a lot I bet!!
Really nice work, enjoying these instructional videos! One other check I like to make is to sit behind the rear wheel, and rotate the tire/wheel assembly while watching the rear pulley. The belt should track in the middle of the pulley and not drift to either side making contact with the edge of the pulley. It's just a check to make sure you have true parallel alignment.
Great advice indeed there buddy, thanks for sharing..!
You're welcome Robbie, thanks for watching mate... Del.
thank you Delboy,I'm a Boozefighter and ride alot and my belt was really loose(like over an inch) you made this a really easy process bro.. Thanx again
Hey Dan, great to hear from you brother... am glad the information could help, it ain't hard is it , a simple enough proecdure, and it's good to wrench on your own ride right?... and also, thanks for making contact, it's cool to hear from someone from the oldest MC in the world... respect my friend, take care, Del
Moonfleet41 I love working on my own bike.. I'm highly mechanical,already did a Barnett clutch,I was just curious about keeping the wheel true and your way was fool proof.. my wheel was actually 18 3/8" on one side and 18 1/4" on the other before I fixed my belt,now it's truly true.. wish you were here in the States.. I'm a Boozefighter with the BoozeFighter MC.. would be kool to ride together
Sure would buddy... never say never, we're long overdue a vacation!
Oh man always there for us, genius. I was looking to buy a belt adjuster, or atleast that is what Harley calls it. But wondered if I really required it and thats when I thought of you ( as always), and decided to see if you had video on this. I have 2007 Iron 883, love it death.
I am actually taking this project a step beyond. I need to change the rear tire. Will be using the the zip tie method to get the tire off and a new one on. If I fail on my try, its off to a local garage to get tire off the rim and the new one on ( The professional way), but hoping it does not come to that.
So here is where I have many questions, I have the manual and it has confused me slightly.
1. getting the wheel off no problem
2. Getting the tire off and new one on ( Zip tie method, do google it), hopefully it works
3. Getting the wheel back on. Now thats where I am a little nervous -
1. As soon I take wheel off, I have taken the alignment out completely,
2. The tention on the belt is definitely gone as well. So now I am at the point where I have been able to put the wheel on the axel ( nothing is tightened yet) and back on the bike, that axel has room to move ( this is where the lug nut goes), it can move half an inch back and forth, does it not? so to tighten the belt to the acceptable tightness, where do I start with the wheel? Should I keep it in the center , tighten it slightly and check the belt and get it to the point where it is more or less right ( in terms of belt tightness), and then use the tiny screw to adjust the alignment and fine tune it? or should be doing something different.
3. how much can the tiny screw be moved, its not indefinite obviously.
4. Can you also confirm tightening the tiny screw ( aka turning it clockwise, so moving the screw in), moves the wheel back or forward? I am assuming based on mechanics that it makes the wheel roll a bit from left to right ( out of alignment) and the same screw on the other side (exhaust side) , clockwise bring it back in. In essence would this not loosen the belt again as i am pushing the wheel forward.
I really hope this is making sense, as it all makes sense in my head. Either way I am reaching out to a man best suited for this advice . On behalf of everyone thank you for all that you do.
A Shovel...im proper jealous mate, i would love a nice straight, unmolested early 70's 1200 to make my own....good luck with it, and enjoy every moment...life is for the fun bits aye... thanks and take care, Del.
Hi Richard, thank you for your kind words, what you've experienced is exactly what I saw when me & Penny decided to make videos, so many explanations of things leave out vital steps and also worst of all, they tend to presume the viewer has a lot more knowledge than they might, so use in-speak and brevity, when the absolute novice needs it properly explained in lay man's terms and also a little insight into 'why' things are done in order to help with proper understanding of the task..good luck
What about top tension bud? Mines got play both ends
The only stupid question mate, is the one you don't ask...!!! yes you can adjust belt tension with the bike on the stand...in fact, its irrelevant to do it with the wheel off the deck..(i left it up there while i made the video for ease of demonstration)...the bike will ride with the weight on the wheels, so all adjustments are best made with the weight on the wheels...take care and ride safe.. good luck Del.
I untwist and stretch out a metal coat hanger. After I’ve reached the proper belt tension I bend the ends of the wire coat hanger into ninety degree bends with tips to touch center of front swing arm pin and center of axle. Then I use my coat hanger alignment guide to adjust axle distance from swing arm pin on the opposite side. I keep my alignment tool in the garage and check the center to center distances often to make sure nothing has changed.
Thank's men!! I did a lot of changes to my bike and you made me save quite a lot of money not going to the stealership! Thank's again you rock!
Cheers bob, glad it helped you out buddy..
Awesome video, I am contemplating changing my neutral switch on my own which requires removing the belt so was checking out your video! Awesome thanks! I don't think I have commented before but your other video have helped me as well!
I usually never comment on the videos.. But I couldn't hold myself back from commenting on these amazing tutorial videos you putup.. Great job done explaining it so well.. Thank you again Mate!!.. Please work upon few more basic tutorials that we could do at home and save few bucks giving mah harley for service.. I own a fat bob just fyi..
Had a watch of your video Otto, great bars, and look real class on the 03 model... take care.. Del.
I love how you have such great attention for detail. If you’re ever in Iowa City, I’ll show you around.
Deal!
You found me out mate, i normally tent to prefer brighter colours....but the orange reminds me of my mates American Mk3 Cortina....lol..
Thanks mate, i appreciate the support.
OK, there must be a reason why its hitting the belt, it isn't designed to do that, see if you can remove the lead from its mounting, clean it up and re-route it a little so its out of the way, its hard to be exact without seeing your bike, but its just a game or trial and error, and doing what you need to do to make a small gap between them..
awesome vids!!! I have a 2003 silver/black sportster and try to do my own maint.etc. your vids really help and save me a ton of money!! GREAT JOB
Hi mate,I am planning a video on this subject quite soon,but the basic message is to go to a decent tool company like Machine Mart etc.,and buy a good quality basic 'general' kit,it will give you the essentials like screwdrivers, grips, pliers, couple of hammers, basic socket set, etc., then you could add to that some A/F spanners & allen keys, a set of torx bits, which would work on your imperial fasteners & always a spacious toolbox to add future tools...pay for quality & you won't regret it!
Yup! This one helped me prep for my tire change as well. Thanks again! Great video!
Unless the bike has particularly high rear suspension then NO, imagine the swing arm moves through an arc, its tightest when the front pulley and back pulley are level with each other and the ground, as the bike then moves either up or down it loosens off a tiny bit, the presumption is that it is above parallel when unladen, and moves down to parallel when you sit on it..this is not the case if the bike has low shocks, the belt can take a bit of extra tension, its being loose that does damage.
Hi mate, if you have the proper HD service manual form the dealer it covers it in great detail.....but others may not.. the caliper can stay put, but it makes it easier if you unbolt it and slide it forward...its hard to explain every step here and i dont have a video made of it so far. sorry not to be more help mate... good luck with it.
Great video, as you say it is obvious how to do it once you physicaly have, keep up the good videos mr & mrs del boy
Del the size spanner i use on rear spindle is 1-1/4 or 32mm not as u said 1 1/2 not haveing a go m8 ur vids are very good ive been working on bikes a long time i cant explain as clearly as yourself allso no need to drop the swinging are out when changeing a belt or endless chain remove bottom bolt on drive side shock G
Thanks Jeff, you are too kind... any dicision on the new bike direction mate..?
Depending on the bike it should last at least 30k miles, but with meticulous care and retaining the belt guards properly it could last as long as 40-50k miles! All belts over high mileage will pick up nicks & cuts in the teeth & if they are bad, then yes, replace the belt, but generally you won't get that! Good luck with it, Del
I use a different method for rear wheel alignment. With my XL1200C on its side stand, I get my eye about 8" from the floor in front of the bike and turn the front wheel perfectly straight by sighting down the front tire sidewall edge on each side with the sides of the rear tire. Then I walk to the rear and with my eye 8" from the floor, sight down the rear tire sidewall edges to line up with the front tire. It is ultra precise, easily repeatable, takes into account frame or swing arm imperfections, and doesn't require a ruler or measuring tape. It works especially well on my XL1200C because the front tire is nearly as wide as the rear. But it also works great on my sport bike with fat rear tire if I put the bike on a rear stand to make the bike vertical and use 2x4 blocks along the narrower front tire. Sighting from the rear, I line up the rear tire edges with the front blocks. What do you think?
Thanks so much for all the input. When I looked into how to check belt tension according to Harley I would have needed a tool just to check it. Well thanks to you know I know.. Thanks again!! :)
Most welcome mate, glad it could help you.. Del.
Thanks for all ur videos I use them for reference on my Harley knighster
I love you man!!! You save me so much and you are so eloquent in your explanations! God bless!
Thanks buddy, glad to hear we could help, we're just launching a new series on Harley servicing, first video up tomorrow, maybe that can help you too!
All 5 diy video's on your 05 fatboy are Awesome, helpful to the fullest!! thanks again, Del and Penny!!!!!!
Thanks - glad the videos help! Cheers Del
Hi mate...as with all the requests we get, we would need a Sportster with a belt that needed changing...we just load up what we have course to do here in the garage..maybe some day if Discovery step up our involvement and actually pay us for the contributions we make to them...we could make videos on wider subjects...but for now mate, the best thing i could suggest is get the proper genuine HD service manual, its a simple enough task and the manual covers every step...sorry cant be more help Del
Thanks for all your tips on the Bonneville se and the Harley Sportster All the Best ALAN BROOKS
No problem, most welcome mate 👍
Really good vid (though I ain't got a Harley and don't want one), and found the wheel alignment idea great. I'll use it. Was rather disturbed to see what appeared to be a Guzzi 1100 Sport behind you, one of the most beautiful bikes ever made (got one of those), and somebody has plainly vandalized it. If you can find out who it was, I'll get them for you. Thanks for the tips. Steve.
Nice video. Motion Pro makes a really neat and inexpensive tool for checking rear wheel alignment. If you do your own maintenance on your Sportster, I highly recommend it. Also, Harley makes a nice tool to show how much force you are putting on the belt when measuring the deflection. I highly recommend that as well.
Hi Gerald, you are dead right, there are a few tools on the market for checking wheel alignment, but one of the simplest methods, that i didn't mention in this video was to just check the belt tacking in the back pulley, if there is an even gap each side of the belt and the pulley walls, then you're bang on... and thats tool?, Harley call it a "Deflecometer"...lol
thank you so much for your specific assistance on all your videos. well done. you have helped me tremendously mate!
Thanks Troy, very kind of you to say, so glad we've helped you out, all the best, D&Px
Thank you for the video. I will be using it to adjust and tighten my drive belt on my 15' street 750
love your videos, they've helped my out a lot...keep them comming!!
thanks!
excellent video,very clear to understand,have a good one del
have used you knowledge a few times thanks ...shout out from Canada... cheers mate!
Thanks Scott, glad we can help you buddy.. thanks for watching... not sure where in Canada you are, but for some i guess its time to park the bikes up and baton down about now?..
Thanks, I haven't actually ridden the bike, but I need to change the belt anyway as it has the wrong belt fitted (133 teeth instead of 136 ), and I'm fitting an enclosed belt primary kit so I'll be checking the front/rear pulley alignment whilst I'm at it. Could I get away with fitting a 1 1/8" belt instead of the 1 1/2" stock belt ? The fitted one seems to be almost touching the outer pulley plate, but I can't see any signs of it actually rubbing.
Thanks again
Chris
+Chris Gill No mine is less than 1mm each side, but the thicker the better for strength buddy...
I have a 2008 sportster custom 1200 , my belt is riding on the rear pulley to the right side , witch side should I adjust it , in or out . To make it ride in the center ?
Might seem like a dumb question - but I noticed you have the bike on a bike hoist. Can you do this adjustment on the side stand? If memory serves me right, the Harley factory service manual mentions that for inspecting belt tension, the bike needs to be on the 'jiffy stand'. It makes no mention under the 'adjustment' section, however.
Harleys are a new thing to me...been tinkering on German and Japanese bikes for quite some time. I just want to make sure I don't muck anything up.
Thanks!
And again thank you for this tutorial brother its so good!!!!.
From México i send you a hug.
Dude ... you are the man! thank you so very much for great video!
Is there a tolerance for the adjustment of both sides, I have a 0.3-0-5 millimeters difference on the adjustment bolts?
Well made , very easy , even for a beginer !!! thank you , now im doing in my home !
+Frederico Werly Thanks Frederico, im glad the video can help you my friend.. take care.. and good luck with your projects.. Del.
Awesome instruction, very thorough.
Thanks Terry, glad you enjoyed it..
Thank you for soon answer. It's being rubbed. Any suggestion, where should I move it? I'm really new to bikes, but willing to do everything by myself:)
would you have to rotate the wheel to check for a tight spot and do you need the weight of a person on the seat while checking for said tight spot before adjusting the belt,,,thanks.
Maria Goodman Hi Maria, as it's a lower bike and swing arm is horizontal with the floor, it is at it's tightest point at rest without a rider... and you can rotate the wheel to check for tight spots if you wish, but as the belt stretches to retain tension, you usually won't find any...
Is a 27mm combination wrench the same as the 1 1/2
Good phylosophy mate.. ! works for me...
Hello Sir, thank you very much for the video. I still have a question, I've a 2005 softail. Do I've to adjust the belt drive on the ground or on a lift? Best Regards, Wilfred
Perfectly ok to make that adjustment on the ground Wilfred, its always best as the weight needs to be on it to mirror the tension it will be under when in use..! Good luck with it.. Del.
Thank you very much!!!
This fucking guy is great! So much help over the last two years!
Glad it could help you mate !
yes....has to be the BEST mechanic in the UK hands down!!!would pay him a mil to come to the US and give my Harley Fatboy a overhaul!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!The knowledge and know how is insane. Its amazing how a human being can be so damn smart/ on the mark!!! I only envy his skills!!
Very helpful thanks! I have a question, how long a belt can last? If there any kind of damage is better to change it?
awesome video brother, great at explaining things..
Thanks Chad, you're very kind, glad you enjoyed the video.
Greetings mate! Thanks for this instructional video. After adjusting my bike's drive belt, I noticed that the belt is practically rubbing on the tire. I checked the alignment, and it is fine. Any thoughts on why the drive belt is so close to the side of the rear tire? Thanks!
+Daniel Carneiro Hi Daniel, what harley do you have mate, and what rear tyre width are you running on it?.
+Moonfleet41 It's a '96 Sporty 1200, and I'm running a Metzeler 150/80. Before removing the wheel, I noticed that it was adjusted a bit more to the left side than to the right (looking the bike from behind).
+Daniel Carneiro OK, first thing then is the tyre size mate.. your bike came from the factroy with a 130/90/16 back tyre....so you are now running an extra 10mm each side which will bring the tyre closer to the belt by that much... the wider back boot should still fit, but it will be closer. also check the order of the wheel spacers if you have had the wheel out, the spacers must be in the right order to hold the wheel in the correct position... maybe just recheck the alignment, set it from the axle centre to the swing arm centre to be exact..!
+Moonfleet41 Makes totally sense. Thanks a lot for your time and infos, bro!
Thank you so much for the clear and easy to follow video. I recently purchased a 98 Sportster and the rear wheel alignment was about 1/4 inch off. I got it pretty much exact on both sides (dont know if it would pass NASA inspection for takeoff) but I feel its good, checking with tool and tape. My belt has a deflection between 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch movement in the window (three notches on window). each notch is 1/8 inch according to book). Is this too tight? can the belt be too tight? Thanks again!!
Hi there... good to hear you;re getting into it, all cool to do these things yourself.. wit the belt tension, ive never been a fan of running them too tight, specially in really cold weather, so i set all mine to about 1/2 inch deflection and it works just fine... of course the manual may suggest tighter.. but this works for me.... hope that helps you out.. good luck. .Del.
@@Moonfleet41 thanks so much for responding. I went back and reset the wheel. I now have the deflection set to 1/2 inch. I feel good about this. I think I was a little too tight before. Thanks again.
@@Dawgs241 Sure ting buddy, most welcome, opinions vary, but that has always worked for me!
Do you work on older model sportsters? I have a 1971 ironhead. Thanks for you videos.