Added some HD 10" apes to my 2015 883. I needed a 44 inch brake line for this effort. Everything else stock had enough slack with some rerouting. I'll probably want a longer clutch cable but it's good for now. Anyway I used this video and your other brake bleed videos to do something I've never done and probably wouldn't have taken on otherwise. Your videos have helped me more than any others. I've done my shocks, V&H baffles in stock housing, and my handlebar swap after watching your videos. It's turning into a Delboy's Garage Edition Iron. Thanks!!!
Del, I just want to that you for this video. I had to change out my brake cylinder which was leaking by the plunger. I couldn't get the brakes to bleed all the way so I used your trick of taking off the caliper and hanging it up. I was able to bleed the brakes in no time. Thanks again for all your tips. Please keep the videos coming. Jim.
Thats great news, so often i find that all guys need is the tip to understand how to dismantle a thing properly and they can sort the rest... good going for getting stuck in yourself mate, you will feel good for having done your own work, and it makes you feel more at one with your bike when you ride it, because you have a more intimate knowledge of its state of health... let me know if you get stuck with the brake bleed task, im happy to help... take care and good luck.. Del.
I just changed my bars. This vid really helped me with the with the break hose. Great info! Saved me $570 that the dealership was gonna charge me. Thanks!
Yeah, and i wish i had a tenth of his money...lol.. Seriously, i just say it plain and simple so anyone can have a go at it, 80% of the fear of working on your bike is just fear of the unknown.. once you have seen it done, its usually clear as day.. and times are hard these days, where ever you live in the world, so why not share a little insight with my fellow riders to save them a penny here and there.. thanks for your very kind comments mate, and thanks for watching... take care.. Del.
Thanks for your kind comments.. yeah the cables looks daunting, but its not complexed, yeah you need fingers like' the borrowers' and 15 of them... but other than being fiddly its quite simple.. i dont have a video of doing it as ive not changed those in Penny's bike, but ill send you a PM, with a basic outline of the task and hope that may help get your head round it... hope that helps, ill send the PM, shortly... Del.
Thanks a million for the video sir. To avoid dismantling the whole system to let gravity get the stubborn bubbles out, connect a large syringe to the the bleed hose and add suction, the air bubbles come right out, hassle free.
Hi buddy, yeah, the internet is great for linking different people from around the world giving us an insight into the life and outlook of someone thousand's of miles away whom you would otherwise never interact with! ... we make the videos to allow new riders a way of picking up tips and techniques they can do themselves to keep their bike safe without spending fortune..we've made many friends in the USA and all over the world...good to hear from you, take care, Del
Typed "how to remove the brake line from a Harley Sportster" into Google and up pops this video... I love the internet and thank you sir for being a part of it!
Hi mate,.you learned a lesson there but didn't realize it.....the back brakes bleed easy because the hose is almost always 'horizontal' and the air doesnt work hard to back up the tube constantly...it just sits there being willingly pushed along till it pops out the caliper....next time chap, try building up the system, then take the calipers off (still plumbed up) and hang them level with (or better still above) the master cylinder....and they'll bleed first time every time..cheers mate, Del
Hi mate, no, they are standard cables, all you need to do is release the front of the fuel tank, lift it up slightly and tug a little of the wiring forwards to give you some extra slack, there is plenty under there, so it's no problem, good luck with it, Del
Iris, you are very welcome, and thank you so much for your kind comments, i am very glad you could use it and save a little money.. its important to pass on things that are simple and easy, but for some reason scare people, and i guess brakes are very important for safety so folks dont trust themselves...but it really isnt that hard as you can see... keep doing your own stuff where you can, ride safe, and thanks again.... Cheers.. Del.
That's easy, mate, if you're bleeding the system upside down as I've shown, with the caliper above the bike, the air bubbles will naturally rise up to the caliper and as you pump through the fluid eventually the bubbles will stop, then just double check by pumping through one resevior of solid fluid with no bubbles and the job's done (also the lever will be rock hard, hope that helps, Glenn, take care, Del
@roleeesh Hi mate, sorry if that wasnt clear.... there is no need to use the bleed nipple to clear the fluid, you just take the cap off the reservior, then unbolt the bottom of the hose off the caliper, poke the end in a jar, and pump it all out like you say.... that will work just fine. the nipple is only for bleeding it up when you are refilling the new hose. Hope that helps buddy... cheers, Del.
Hi Jason, yes we did mate, there was no need to when using those V&H shortshots, it will run ok with them as they only replace the silencer, not the header pipe....but once i did the 1200 conversion i went all the way and used the 'Kytech' fueller, and the Kuriyakyn veloceraptor intake which has a K&N filter element in it... the fueller richened up the mixture a lot which cooled it right down and added loads of usable grunt low down...how that helps.. Del.
+gavranarh Thank you most kindly Sir, that's very generous of you... nobody owns knowledge and we just like to share about a little insight to help our fellow riders, costs us nothing and has made us some great friends around the world...! Ride safe!
Hi young Ben..you make me smile mate, you sound just like me 30 years ago...lol.. as you said you're a training bike "tech" this term makes me smile, in reality, and before fancy titles to make people feel important, you're effectively 'an apprentice mechanic', and it is entirely right that you should stick to the books and rules until you have the experience to know otherwise, in time you will develop your own feel and way for things, and one of those is a feel for fasteners. good luck mate Del
thanks, buddy. I started installing the new cable that came from Burly for my new apes and realized that the cable connection up by the reservoir is the incorrect size. Thanks, Burly! So I'll be tinkering with Frankenstein-ing the old and new cable together. If it doesn't seem like it's a guaranteed working fix I'll scrap the idea and get a new cable for safety's sake, but I can't wait any longer to get on this bike. Been bobbing it paycheck to paycheck and the season is almost over already
Hi Glen,the tube came from a brake bleeding kit,but TBH you can buy it in many places.If you are stuck with a longer hose and it's only 4" just re-route it to loose the extra slack, it usually works.As the video shows,just take the caliper off & bleed upwards,the natural way the air rises & pump the lever up a few times to build pressure,hold in,then open & close the bleed screw,hope that helps, Cheers Del
After being told it would cost upwards of $700 (both dealer and independent shops) to install my Chumps on my 07 xl1200c, this video was just what I needed. Thanks for the savings!!
Hi Kimberly... HOW MUCH.??? Thats downright Ludicrous.. its an hours work tops, and any decent mechanic will be able ot do it.. id expect tp pay maybe $150 at best.. but $700.. tats robbery.. Im glad the video was able to help you out so much.. good luck with it.. Del.
You are very welcome my friend, that is precisely why i post them up, to save people a few pennies and make it possible for them to keep thier bikes on the road.... well done for getting stuck in and doing it yourself.... ride safe,.. DEl.
hi mate, No the back rim in Penny's harley is the OE item, its a 150 tyre, and looks wider due to the white wall and the fact its lowered so much. With fitting a 180, the only issue will be belt clearance, her 150 has just 8mm gap to the belt, so doing the maths, 180 will be 30mm wider, meaning 15mm each side, and will certainly touch, it will also hit the belt guard (but you can notch that). you can buy thinner belts which means pulleys, so just fit a chain and sprockets which looks dead cool.
@boredofitall Hi Sal. thanks for your nice comments, its just common sense to let the air go where physics takes it, then just let it out of the top... and hey, with Harley brakes, i need all the help i can get, so an air free system is kind of essential. .. and yeah, dont they like to tell you they changed things, you can bet 90% of what your told when you buy a bike is jackanory.. good luck doing the Viffer mate, gizza PM if you get stuck aye.... take care.. Del.
Love your videos del, they have saved me lots of time doing up my Sportster 883 low. Just thought to pass on a tip after watching again you changing a break line in relation to the copper washers. The reason for the advice to fit new is because new copper washers are soft. To reuse one should aneal, (think that's the right spelling), the washer. Simply put that means heating them up to cherry red then cooling them off quick by plunging them into cold water. They're like new then and do the sealing job they're meant for. Thanks a bunch for all Gaz
Yes, thats all you need, as long as you apply pressure to the lever, open the nipple to evac' the air then lock it off again before you release the lever... then pump up some pressure again before opening and closing the nipple each time..
@robbiedee02 Hi Robbie.. No mate, the holes do not have to be in line, there is a recess (gruve) round the bango bolt if you look ,and the fluid will find its way round, just nip it up tight. check the hose is not kinked, pinched or trapped, if you cant blow through it then you must clear that first, then fit the hose, take the bleed nipple right out and see if you can blow through it then (the nipple may be blocked), once you clean the blockage it should bleed up ok. let me know
@TheLongboardlife Hi mate, no, i kept all the stock cabling, i just had to wriggle an inch or so of the 'under tank' wiring forward to gain a bit of slack, other than that, its fine.
Hi JIm.... thats great news buddy, im really glad that it helped you out, that is exactly why i post them up as reference and referal guides.... bleeding brakes in a downwards direction is just a ballache and you never get it all out.... this route just uses the laws of physics to help you... Thanks for your kind comments and ride safe... Del.
Hi mate, if you want the best performing option, then two hoses direct form the MC pump direct to each caliper with exactly equal length.....if you want the best looking option...then go with the regular factory splitter and mounts so just the rubber is changed but it still looks the same (including tge solid steel pipe section) and for that you'll need four hoses.!!!! but for me, i would take one hose from pump to right caliper, thne run a hose from right to left caliper so its one single line!
Hey buddy, you're most welcome, im glad they can be of help, and that's a righteous way to go, who doesn't love a set of apes on a dark custom Harley, class. if you need any help or get stuck just drop me a line brother... cheers, Del.
Well done sir, feels good to conquer your first upgrade job aye?, it makes me feel proud when a biker who has not previously tackled his own mechanical work takes the plunge and starts twirling spanners....its the right way brother, you'll feel better about your bike already im sure.. good luck with the rest and take care, Del.
Pizza? Now you are talking! .. Me & Penny have always promised ourselves a genuine Italian pizza, so may just take up up on it some day! ... Never took any pictures of it, but yes, just clip the hose out the way in the tidiest way you can, fix it to each fork stanchion and make enough curve to clear the mud guard ... hope that helps, take care, Del
Hi Zalem. sold the bike about 2 years ago now, so sadly cant show you what they look like sat on the bike...but they were perfect for me at 6ft tall....
great video, will be attempting to bleed my sporty's brakes today after work and now will go into it with a lot more confidence and what look like some great tricks. Thank you kindly!
Yes, I have, mate, it's how I do it always if I am plumbing a system myself, run a single banjo bolt from the pump, first hose to the right caliper, double banjo bolt,then bounce the second hose from the right caliper over the toop of the mud guard down to the left caliper, makes it effectively one hose, you simply then bleed the left caliper only,,if you want two hoses equal length just make the short one as long as the long one, just route out the slack, makes them more responsive,but not much
It does, but you can pick up brake bleeding hoses form any good car accessory store...TBH, you can do it justr as well with a simple length of hose.. Thanks for watching... Del.
Sorry mate, the stock factory hose won't fit, you only get about an extra 2 inches or so to play with & also the steel pipe section means you cannot feed any length up from lower down...just buy a single hose for a 'Nightster' as they have longer bars & this will fit perfectly! ... hope that helps, good luck with it, Del
@robbiedee02 OK, the first thing to do Robbie, is stop pulling it apart, you cannot prime a brake system that isn't assembled, Try this;- with everything bolted together, fill the reservior with fresh fluid, pump the pedal a few times and hold it down, then crack the nipple undone and nip it up again. air will bubble out, keep doing this over and over and eventually it will prime. the master cyl' is a pump and it will work if you pump up a bit of pressure then release the nipple.
Hi Brian....i would not have suggested to suck the hose dry as now you are pumping back and forth on the air alone and its just squishes up and down....the best way now for you would be to re-prime the hose and get fluid back up it....then just fill the reservoir and keep pumping it out of the bottom while refilling the top and keep going till it bleeds out the bottom clean and clear...! once you have a full hydraulic line it will pump through reliably..
@athletichunta Hi buddy, yeah there certainly are, just about anything aftermarket is better, if you fit a 'braided steel' hose it will be totally relaible, and will also sharpen up the feel at the lever and make the brakes feel more accurate, the best three makes are "Goodridge", "Earl's" and "Hell" hoses, i see you're in the US so no use me suggesting a supplier, just contact a reputable aftermarket parts supplier and ask for the right application for your bike in those brands.
@keehn20 You're very welcome mate, thats exactly why i post the up so that people can do it themselves and keep safe on the road plus save a few pennies by side stepping the dealer.! ride safe... Del.
Yes mate, the factory rubber/steel hose is fine as the Biltwells are not much different in dimension to the factory Iron bars, just a different shape, also there is some slack built into the rubber hose which just straightens out a little when you fit them on the keystones. Good luck, let's have a video! Del
Hey I got name checked! Didn't know about the raising the calliper trick. Cheers Del. I'm about to replace the original brake lines on the VFR so that was well handy :) One of the M/C screws was minced so I drilled it out. Reckon the brake fluid has been in there for ever, it looks like dark honey! Guy I bought it off obviously didn't do the brakes like he said. Keep 'em coming Del & "The Wife" ;)
The bulbs last for years, as long as they dont get dropped, or you touch the bulb glass with your skin.. i think you maybe have maybe pinched a wire, if that has cut into it, it may have just shorted out...check the fuses, if the fuse has blown, replece it, try again, if it blows a second time, you have a wire exposed touching earth... also check you haven't just tugged a plug loose and need to push it back in..longer bars can stretch the wiring...hope that help mate, let me know how you get on.
Why thank you kind sir, you do me too much credit, i just post up the things i do to help others save a buck here and there on thier bikes, plus keep them safer opn the road... take care and keep it real... Del.
Its fine to modify your gearing in that way, as long as you have enough scope in the belt adjustment to take up the change in length... and remember if you make the gearing taller in that way (like it has a 6th gear) then you will loose it from the bottom...so the bike will struggle to pull away clean and easy, like pulling away in 2nd, you'll need to slip the clutch a bit thats all..if you are happy with that, then you're good to go.and you will save a bit of fuel too..good luck with it... Del.
The Nightster bars are longer than yours, so the brake hose form that will fit bang on...but you can buy a universal Goodridge line at any length online and even coated in black so they blend in..the bars are designed to lean forward too, like mine in the video they lay flush with the angle of the clock..!
Brilliant informative on this tricky subject , great admiration for your videos Del . Laptops always in my garage an your on more than the news .. Cheers Darren
I wasn't a fan of my stock brakes on my 2018 48 so I ordered a Speed Merchant bracket, a Tokico radial caliper off a GSXR1000 and some Brembo brake pads, with stainless steel braided lines. I can't wait to see the difference, but I think I am going to order another braided line that is wrapped in clear rubber so I don't have the same issue! Thanks for the good videos as always! Edit: I just checked and luckily the braided line I ordered has a teflon cover on it so I am in luck!
Right on Jonny, that caliper is gonna chomp on the disc with double the force of the regular factory caliper.. Good choice indeed my friend, you will Not be disappointing.. Good luck with the swap, i hope it goes smoothly.. Del.
Calibrated wrist for torque settings! I used to do panels on the forward fuselage of F-111s and they were 24 inch-pounds. Do enough of them and you get to the point that you are very close when doing it w/o a torque wrench. Hanging the calipers from the rafters is a novel idea, and one which I will use when I replace my dual-disc brake lines on my Lowrider. Good call on Goodridge brake lines! That is the kit I will use for front and rear on mine. I guess I have had crappy brakes on all of my other metric bikes, because the Harley brakes seem to be good to me. But I tend to brake early and use engine compression to slow down. Before I got used to the brakes,......20 min. on the bike I had a slight panic stop. Depressed the rear to about half, and it lightly locked-up the rear,...enough to make it squeel. My rear is now my friend. The front is a dual-disc set-up and I haven't really leaned on them yet. No need. Why go to the stealer and pay a lot of cash for work that you can do yourself? Watch this man's videos and he will save you money and time! It isn't rocket science here, you know. Just the ability to turn some wrenches and follow directions. The more I ride my bike, the more I look to Delboy's Garage for help and information. Cheers Del. Roger
Was a crew chief for those birds, lo many years ago, and you got to the point of knowing just when the torque wrench would click by doing MANY panels over a long time. You are right, it is all technique: I'm learning how to ride all over again. Fun fact: Haven't been on a bike in 35 years. Last bike was a 1982 CX-500. Just started riding the Harley last Tuesday. Gawd,....I'm having so much fun! Cheers! Roger
HEY ,Del ,,just whant too say thanks ,and i was very gratefull for ur help and patience in trying too sort out brakes on pit bike ,,got it sorted ,there was a faulty pump too push tha fluid ,,,ITS very hard too know when by mail ,,But man sending u brake pistion so hopefully that should be it .....Cheers mate any how and Have great xmas ..
Didn't notice this vid. Now confident to fit all my new stuff on Monday. See my latest vid, fitting the Joker Machine speedo relocating kit. Gotta remove the front wheel for that. Had to wait 3 damn weeks to get the riser bracket at my local HD shop. Thanks again Del.
@Rasd4Metta You can only really do this with a bike, and not all bikes either, its impossible to get the lines free from the vehicle when they are routed through body work, this is just exploiting the simplicity of the Harley's design and making life easier.... thanks buddy...
Wow you can do it all!!! Great job on the brake bleeding! I would of just gravity bleed them, been doing it that way for years and I've never had a problem! But your way is good too lol
Hi Sir ! i have ABS on mine . Anything i should do different before replacing the front break line ? (taller handle bars !). Hopefully you get to read this and you have the time to respond or direct me to another one of your amazing vids where everything explained . Much respect !!
It's pretty much the same, just whatever you do DON'T turn your ignition on whilst you're plumbing the system! You can gravity bleed the dry line by just leaving the hose off the caliper, dangled over a jug, fill the reservoir and gently massage the brake lever in and out, you'll see little bubbles pop up through the reservoir as gravity gradually pulls the fluid down the line, then once it's dripping out the bottom, connect it to the caliper and chase it through as normal... hope that helps you buddy and good luck with it!
Great video thanks a million worked like a charm greatly appreciated, keep up the videos I know they will help someone just like it did me!!!! Thanks again .....ROB
@jeffkill Hi Jef, thats a simple task buddy, just take the hose off the lowest point, (usually at the caliper), direct it into a jar, then open the reservior at the top, then just pump the lever until it all drains down and out... any left in the hose is ok, just take the hose off the top once the rez' is empty, and blow it through. hope that helps buddy... Del.
well i have tied off the lever and will leave it a day or too... did this on my old bike and it worked a treat.. bloody things are a pain in the arse... cheer :)
You can pump from bottom to top the air bubbles always travels up, so get yourself a syringe from a livestock store plastic type and connect that clear tube and feed it right through the bleeder valve.
Dell ! Raising my handlebars have to change very short stock brake line! If I don't get all the air out of the line rather than take off the caliper couldn't I just use the rag wrap trick a couple of nights?
If you're changing a brake line mate, it will be empty and you'll find the lever will just flop straight in to the bar with no pressure... you will have to bleed it through if it's a new brake line... but it's not hard and takes about 10mins!
cheers for the reply, don't think you can join braided hoses to the HD pipe section, it would be the tidiest option.. but correct me if I'm wrong on this - I had 2 lines once on an old GSXR1100, the one with the rectanglar headlight ! worked fine.. the lines can't be the same length though, as one caliper is further away than the other..or am I missing something...I like your single line idea..though the routing of the secondary line over the front fender might be a bugger..u ever done this?
I had a shed load of bother bleeding the brakes on the bandit after strippin all the calipers and replacing seals etc... for me the only way which worked was to reverse bleed them... the exception being the rear caliper which bled easily...
@rockabillychuck Hey Chuck, hows it going mate.. glad it helps, im looking forward to seeing it when its all done so lets have a video aye.lol... cheers mate, hope your summer is cranking up now, its bladdy snowing here...paah.. !
Is there a replacement sight glass for the front of an 06 brake master cylinder? Really need. Or a gloss black front master cylinder set up that uses stock levers?
Good job and Thank you ... Doing this on my road king as soon as the new lines comes in. HD Dealer wanted to charge me about $200 for the job .... HAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Just did this right after replacing my fork seals. Thanks for the vid! bleeding the brakes went smoothly. Now that I put my brake caliper back on my fork though, my brake pads are rubbing. I jacked the front end up, and the front wheel hardly spins freely with the amount that the pads are rubbing. And when riding, it's very easy to hear the pads on the disc. Is there a way I can adjust the pads so this isn't happening?
Hi Will, ok are they the same brake pads, or new ones? And did you push them back and maybe rub some dirt in to the seals? If they're binding, this can be a common effect of a dirty caliper, why not drop the pads out, pump the pistons out just a little bit till you see a clean line around then, then with a toothbrush and brake cleaner, scrub all round the pistons and get them spotless, you could even use hot soapy water if they're really bad... then reinstall the pads, put it all back together they they should be fine.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for the tip. Right as I went to do this, I realized I didn't properly clip the little spring clip on one of the pads and the spring clip was rubbing against the rotor and causing a horrible metal on metal sound. Big thanks for all the vids and advice--I don't know where I'd be without them and my manual.
Thank you for past info. 99 883 with 4500 miles that has sat several years. I've been replacing tires/fluids. Now brakes. Going to replace lines and pads (as you reccomended). Also thought it smart to remove the cylinders and clean them up. My question, if I run into an area im unsure of can I reach out to you to help clear it up? Its alot to ask so figured I'd check with you. Either way, grateful to you.
Hi Tom, if you're planning to strip and rebuild your brake master cylinders and calipers, why not fit new seals at the same time, that will cover every possible problem.. and yes, feel free to drop me a line if you need to and ill try to help if i can mate.. !
Hi Del,,,,mate i just checked out brake hose pipe ,and bleeder screw ,i can blow threw them fine and no kink on cables ,,can i take off tha banjo bolt at tha brake caliper,and fill it up straight out off jar ,as i see that tha brake caliber isnt full too tha top when i remove tha banjo bolt and look in ..
IS that bleeder line a part available only at the dealer or is it something you can just pick up from the hardware store, it appears to have a fitting on it
I have a 2016 48 sportster with ABS and I'm installing apes and a longer front brake line...I was told it has to be done at the dealership because if even a tiny bit of air gets into the ABS unit you've got trouble . Can you advise.. thanks bro
You can fill an empty brake hose if you know how to do it, I personally reverse bleed them from the caliper, but I think rather than just a longer front brake hose, are you sure you don't have the one piece welded block under your bottom yoke that links to the ABS... if you do, it's dealer fit only. You can easily spot it, it's when the hose comes up from the caliper and feeds in to a solid metal block that then splits two different ways, one backwards to the ABS pump and the other up to the bars.
@@Moonfleet41 thanks for the reply...yes I have a block under the bottom yoke where two brake line fittings from the ABS are screwed into it and the block comes with a fixed welded bottom line which goes to the caliper and a welded top line goes to the reservoir. ..
@terroristone mate, i have always done that, it guarantees a complete bleed, first time every time. even on a twin disk setup, hang them up together and bleed them one at a time, easy. Good luck with it buddy, (what bars are you going for..?) Del.
Delboy's Garage is by far the best motorcycle tutorials on RUclips. Great work man
Added some HD 10" apes to my 2015 883. I needed a 44 inch brake line for this effort. Everything else stock had enough slack with some rerouting. I'll probably want a longer clutch cable but it's good for now. Anyway I used this video and your other brake bleed videos to do something I've never done and probably wouldn't have taken on otherwise. Your videos have helped me more than any others. I've done my shocks, V&H baffles in stock housing, and my handlebar swap after watching your videos. It's turning into a Delboy's Garage Edition Iron. Thanks!!!
Del, I just want to that you for this video. I had to change out my brake cylinder which was leaking by the plunger. I couldn't get the brakes to bleed all the way so I used your trick of taking off the caliper and hanging it up. I was able to bleed the brakes in no time. Thanks again for all your tips. Please keep the videos coming. Jim.
Thats great news, so often i find that all guys need is the tip to understand how to dismantle a thing properly and they can sort the rest... good going for getting stuck in yourself mate, you will feel good for having done your own work, and it makes you feel more at one with your bike when you ride it, because you have a more intimate knowledge of its state of health... let me know if you get stuck with the brake bleed task, im happy to help... take care and good luck.. Del.
I just changed my bars. This vid really helped me with the with the break hose. Great info! Saved me $570 that the dealership was gonna charge me. Thanks!
How much????!!! ..... mate, that's ridiculous, they're having a laugh aren't they???? Glad you got it sorted, that's the channel working at it's best!
Yeah they charge $95 per hour and they said that job would take 6 hours! It took me about 30 min.
Cameron Triche
Ha ha ha,,bless them...perhaps they need to follow a youtube video when they do it, which is why it takes longer...lol
Yeah, and i wish i had a tenth of his money...lol.. Seriously, i just say it plain and simple so anyone can have a go at it, 80% of the fear of working on your bike is just fear of the unknown.. once you have seen it done, its usually clear as day.. and times are hard these days, where ever you live in the world, so why not share a little insight with my fellow riders to save them a penny here and there.. thanks for your very kind comments mate, and thanks for watching... take care.. Del.
Thanks for your kind comments.. yeah the cables looks daunting, but its not complexed, yeah you need fingers like' the borrowers' and 15 of them... but other than being fiddly its quite simple.. i dont have a video of doing it as ive not changed those in Penny's bike, but ill send you a PM, with a basic outline of the task and hope that may help get your head round it... hope that helps, ill send the PM, shortly... Del.
Thanks a million for the video sir. To avoid dismantling the whole system to let gravity get the stubborn bubbles out, connect a large syringe to the the bleed hose and add suction, the air bubbles come right out, hassle free.
Hi buddy, yeah, the internet is great for linking different people from around the world giving us an insight into the life and outlook of someone thousand's of miles away whom you would otherwise never interact with! ... we make the videos to allow new riders a way of picking up tips and techniques they can do themselves to keep their bike safe without spending fortune..we've made many friends in the USA and all over the world...good to hear from you, take care, Del
Typed "how to remove the brake line from a Harley Sportster" into Google and up pops this video... I love the internet and thank you sir for being a part of it!
Hi mate,.you learned a lesson there but didn't realize it.....the back brakes bleed easy because the hose is almost always 'horizontal' and the air doesnt work hard to back up the tube constantly...it just sits there being willingly pushed along till it pops out the caliper....next time chap, try building up the system, then take the calipers off (still plumbed up) and hang them level with (or better still above) the master cylinder....and they'll bleed first time every time..cheers mate, Del
Hi mate, no, they are standard cables, all you need to do is release the front of the fuel tank, lift it up slightly and tug a little of the wiring forwards to give you some extra slack, there is plenty under there, so it's no problem, good luck with it, Del
Iris, you are very welcome, and thank you so much for your kind comments, i am very glad you could use it and save a little money.. its important to pass on things that are simple and easy, but for some reason scare people, and i guess brakes are very important for safety so folks dont trust themselves...but it really isnt that hard as you can see... keep doing your own stuff where you can, ride safe, and thanks again.... Cheers.. Del.
That's easy, mate, if you're bleeding the system upside down as I've shown, with the caliper above the bike, the air bubbles will naturally rise up to the caliper and as you pump through the fluid eventually the bubbles will stop, then just double check by pumping through one resevior of solid fluid with no bubbles and the job's done (also the lever will be rock hard, hope that helps, Glenn, take care, Del
@roleeesh Hi mate, sorry if that wasnt clear.... there is no need to use the bleed nipple to clear the fluid, you just take the cap off the reservior, then unbolt the bottom of the hose off the caliper, poke the end in a jar, and pump it all out like you say.... that will work just fine. the nipple is only for bleeding it up when you are refilling the new hose. Hope that helps buddy... cheers, Del.
Hi Jason, yes we did mate, there was no need to when using those V&H shortshots, it will run ok with them as they only replace the silencer, not the header pipe....but once i did the 1200 conversion i went all the way and used the 'Kytech' fueller, and the Kuriyakyn veloceraptor intake which has a K&N filter element in it... the fueller richened up the mixture a lot which cooled it right down and added loads of usable grunt low down...how that helps.. Del.
Thank you for saving me an awful lot of money! Your videos make it so much easier. I love it.
Much love from Frisco, CA!!!
You're most welcome buddy, am glad it worked for you! It's good to know the videos can be of help! All the best mate, Del
you are a humanitarian, dunno what else to say..
thank you.
+gavranarh Thank you most kindly Sir, that's very generous of you... nobody owns knowledge and we just like to share about a little insight to help our fellow riders, costs us nothing and has made us some great friends around the world...! Ride safe!
Moonfleet41 - thank you
This video just saved me a ton of money. Worked flawlessly on a 2014 48. Thank you!!!
Hi young Ben..you make me smile mate, you sound just like me 30 years ago...lol.. as you said you're a training bike "tech" this term makes me smile, in reality, and before fancy titles to make people feel important, you're effectively 'an apprentice mechanic', and it is entirely right that you should stick to the books and rules until you have the experience to know otherwise, in time you will develop your own feel and way for things, and one of those is a feel for fasteners. good luck mate Del
Your videos are great, they're the first ones I look for, thank you.
Steve Crabtree Thanks Steve, really kind of you, glad the videos can help you out !
thanks, buddy. I started installing the new cable that came from Burly for my new apes and realized that the cable connection up by the reservoir is the incorrect size. Thanks, Burly! So I'll be tinkering with Frankenstein-ing the old and new cable together. If it doesn't seem like it's a guaranteed working fix I'll scrap the idea and get a new cable for safety's sake, but I can't wait any longer to get on this bike. Been bobbing it paycheck to paycheck and the season is almost over already
Hi Glen,the tube came from a brake bleeding kit,but TBH you can buy it in many places.If you are stuck with a longer hose and it's only 4" just re-route it to loose the extra slack, it usually works.As the video shows,just take the caliper off & bleed upwards,the natural way the air rises & pump the lever up a few times to build pressure,hold in,then open & close the bleed screw,hope that helps, Cheers Del
After being told it would cost upwards of $700 (both dealer and independent shops) to install my Chumps on my 07 xl1200c, this video was just what I needed. Thanks for the savings!!
Hi Kimberly... HOW MUCH.??? Thats downright Ludicrous.. its an hours work tops, and any decent mechanic will be able ot do it.. id expect tp pay maybe $150 at best.. but $700.. tats robbery.. Im glad the video was able to help you out so much.. good luck with it.. Del.
You are very welcome my friend, that is precisely why i post them up, to save people a few pennies and make it possible for them to keep thier bikes on the road.... well done for getting stuck in and doing it yourself.... ride safe,.. DEl.
hi mate, No the back rim in Penny's harley is the OE item, its a 150 tyre, and looks wider due to the white wall and the fact its lowered so much. With fitting a 180, the only issue will be belt clearance, her 150 has just 8mm gap to the belt, so doing the maths, 180 will be 30mm wider, meaning 15mm each side, and will certainly touch, it will also hit the belt guard (but you can notch that). you can buy thinner belts which means pulleys, so just fit a chain and sprockets which looks dead cool.
Most useful sportster maintenance videos on youtube!!!
Thanks buddy, why thank you kindly Sir, you are most generous!
@boredofitall Hi Sal. thanks for your nice comments, its just common sense to let the air go where physics takes it, then just let it out of the top... and hey, with Harley brakes, i need all the help i can get, so an air free system is kind of essential. .. and yeah, dont they like to tell you they changed things, you can bet 90% of what your told when you buy a bike is jackanory.. good luck doing the Viffer mate, gizza PM if you get stuck aye.... take care.. Del.
Love your videos del, they have saved me lots of time doing up my Sportster 883 low.
Just thought to pass on a tip after watching again you changing a break line in relation to the copper washers. The reason for the advice to fit new is because new copper washers are soft. To reuse one should aneal, (think that's the right spelling), the washer. Simply put that means heating them up to cherry red then cooling them off quick by plunging them into cold water. They're like new then and do the sealing job they're meant for.
Thanks a bunch for all
Gaz
Yes, thats all you need, as long as you apply pressure to the lever, open the nipple to evac' the air then lock it off again before you release the lever... then pump up some pressure again before opening and closing the nipple each time..
U are awesome after weeks of trying to get front brakes I finally got it after trying this method U just save me a trip to the dealership thank you
Most welcome mate. Glad it helped!
This was a great video! You saved me about $800 simply to have the dealer to install it for me.
@robbiedee02 Hi Robbie.. No mate, the holes do not have to be in line, there is a recess (gruve) round the bango bolt if you look ,and the fluid will find its way round, just nip it up tight. check the hose is not kinked, pinched or trapped, if you cant blow through it then you must clear that first, then fit the hose, take the bleed nipple right out and see if you can blow through it then (the nipple may be blocked), once you clean the blockage it should bleed up ok. let me know
THE BEST VIDEO I WATCHED THAT EXPLAINED EVERYTHING PERFECTLY!
@TheLongboardlife Hi mate, no, i kept all the stock cabling, i just had to wriggle an inch or so of the 'under tank' wiring forward to gain a bit of slack, other than that, its fine.
Hi JIm.... thats great news buddy, im really glad that it helped you out, that is exactly why i post them up as reference and referal guides.... bleeding brakes in a downwards direction is just a ballache and you never get it all out.... this route just uses the laws of physics to help you... Thanks for your kind comments and ride safe...
Del.
Hi mate, if you want the best performing option, then two hoses direct form the MC pump direct to each caliper with exactly equal length.....if you want the best looking option...then go with the regular factory splitter and mounts so just the rubber is changed but it still looks the same (including tge solid steel pipe section) and for that you'll need four hoses.!!!! but for me, i would take one hose from pump to right caliper, thne run a hose from right to left caliper so its one single line!
Your videos are the most helpful on RUclips. Thank you so much!
You are mostr welcome sir, good luck with it and let me know if you get stuck, im happy to help... go get it.. Del.
Hey buddy, you're most welcome, im glad they can be of help, and that's a righteous way to go, who doesn't love a set of apes on a dark custom Harley, class. if you need any help or get stuck just drop me a line brother... cheers, Del.
Well done sir, feels good to conquer your first upgrade job aye?, it makes me feel proud when a biker who has not previously tackled his own mechanical work takes the plunge and starts twirling spanners....its the right way brother, you'll feel better about your bike already im sure.. good luck with the rest and take care, Del.
Pizza? Now you are talking! .. Me & Penny have always promised ourselves a genuine Italian pizza, so may just take up up on it some day! ... Never took any pictures of it, but yes, just clip the hose out the way in the tidiest way you can, fix it to each fork stanchion and make enough curve to clear the mud guard ... hope that helps, take care, Del
Thanks Buddy! I just changed my cable out and couldnt understand what i was doing wrong, buy you made is clear as day!
Hi Zalem. sold the bike about 2 years ago now, so sadly cant show you what they look like sat on the bike...but they were perfect for me at 6ft tall....
great video, will be attempting to bleed my sporty's brakes today after work and now will go into it with a lot more confidence and what look like some great tricks. Thank you kindly!
Yes, I have, mate, it's how I do it always if I am plumbing a system myself, run a single banjo bolt from the pump, first hose to the right caliper, double banjo bolt,then bounce the second hose from the right caliper over the toop of the mud guard down to the left caliper, makes it effectively one hose, you simply then bleed the left caliper only,,if you want two hoses equal length just make the short one as long as the long one, just route out the slack, makes them more responsive,but not much
It does, but you can pick up brake bleeding hoses form any good car accessory store...TBH, you can do it justr as well with a simple length of hose.. Thanks for watching... Del.
Sorry mate, the stock factory hose won't fit, you only get about an extra 2 inches or so to play with & also the steel pipe section means you cannot feed any length up from lower down...just buy a single hose for a 'Nightster' as they have longer bars & this will fit perfectly! ... hope that helps, good luck with it, Del
@robbiedee02 OK, the first thing to do Robbie, is stop pulling it apart, you cannot prime a brake system that isn't assembled, Try this;- with everything bolted together, fill the reservior with fresh fluid, pump the pedal a few times and hold it down, then crack the nipple undone and nip it up again. air will bubble out, keep doing this over and over and eventually it will prime. the master cyl' is a pump and it will work if you pump up a bit of pressure then release the nipple.
Hi Brian....i would not have suggested to suck the hose dry as now you are pumping back and forth on the air alone and its just squishes up and down....the best way now for you would be to re-prime the hose and get fluid back up it....then just fill the reservoir and keep pumping it out of the bottom while refilling the top and keep going till it bleeds out the bottom clean and clear...! once you have a full hydraulic line it will pump through reliably..
@athletichunta Hi buddy, yeah there certainly are, just about anything aftermarket is better, if you fit a 'braided steel' hose it will be totally relaible, and will also sharpen up the feel at the lever and make the brakes feel more accurate, the best three makes are "Goodridge", "Earl's" and "Hell" hoses, i see you're in the US so no use me suggesting a supplier, just contact a reputable aftermarket parts supplier and ask for the right application for your bike in those brands.
Thanks for the time to comment, buddy, glad you enjoy the vids - yeah, we do speak a but funny, eh?!! LOL! Del
@landellsjhw Multiple pumps builds up the pressure, compressing the air, and is shoots out easier and more successfully..(as you saw.)..
@keehn20 You're very welcome mate, thats exactly why i post the up so that people can do it themselves and keep safe on the road plus save a few pennies by side stepping the dealer.! ride safe... Del.
This is my first video from you and all i can say is THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Yes mate, the factory rubber/steel hose is fine as the Biltwells are not much different in dimension to the factory Iron bars, just a different shape, also there is some slack built into the rubber hose which just straightens out a little when you fit them on the keystones. Good luck, let's have a video! Del
Hey I got name checked! Didn't know about the raising the calliper trick. Cheers Del. I'm about to replace the original brake lines on the VFR so that was well handy :)
One of the M/C screws was minced so I drilled it out. Reckon the brake fluid has been in there for ever, it looks like dark honey! Guy I bought it off obviously didn't do the brakes like he said.
Keep 'em coming Del & "The Wife" ;)
love the color on that sportster. and the flip with the white and green reversed... sweet.....
The bulbs last for years, as long as they dont get dropped, or you touch the bulb glass with your skin.. i think you maybe have maybe pinched a wire, if that has cut into it, it may have just shorted out...check the fuses, if the fuse has blown, replece it, try again, if it blows a second time, you have a wire exposed touching earth... also check you haven't just tugged a plug loose and need to push it back in..longer bars can stretch the wiring...hope that help mate, let me know how you get on.
Thanks Jonny. glad you liked it.. Del.
Why thank you kind sir, you do me too much credit, i just post up the things i do to help others save a buck here and there on thier bikes, plus keep them safer opn the road... take care and keep it real... Del.
Its fine to modify your gearing in that way, as long as you have enough scope in the belt adjustment to take up the change in length... and remember if you make the gearing taller in that way (like it has a 6th gear) then you will loose it from the bottom...so the bike will struggle to pull away clean and easy, like pulling away in 2nd, you'll need to slip the clutch a bit thats all..if you are happy with that, then you're good to go.and you will save a bit of fuel too..good luck with it... Del.
The Nightster bars are longer than yours, so the brake hose form that will fit bang on...but you can buy a universal Goodridge line at any length online and even coated in black so they blend in..the bars are designed to lean forward too, like mine in the video they lay flush with the angle of the clock..!
Hi there, thanks for your kind comments, yeah, its the simple things that work the best aye..?.. thanks for watching... Del.
Nice one Del. I am looking to go braided on the bandit. I'll do it myself now. Cheers!!
I have never, once, hit the like, tap bell or whatever it is, this guy is gonna be my fist, i love this guy. Please keep doing what you're doing
Thank you kindly Sir, and welcome aboard!
Brilliant informative on this tricky subject , great admiration for your videos Del . Laptops always in my garage an your on more than the news .. Cheers Darren
Glad to help Darren, and thank you for the kind endorsement
I wasn't a fan of my stock brakes on my 2018 48 so I ordered a Speed Merchant bracket, a Tokico radial caliper off a GSXR1000 and some Brembo brake pads, with stainless steel braided lines. I can't wait to see the difference, but I think I am going to order another braided line that is wrapped in clear rubber so I don't have the same issue! Thanks for the good videos as always!
Edit: I just checked and luckily the braided line I ordered has a teflon cover on it so I am in luck!
Right on Jonny, that caliper is gonna chomp on the disc with double the force of the regular factory caliper.. Good choice indeed my friend, you will Not be disappointing.. Good luck with the swap, i hope it goes smoothly.. Del.
Calibrated wrist for torque settings! I used to do panels on the forward fuselage of F-111s and they were 24 inch-pounds. Do enough of them and you get to the point that you are very close when doing it w/o a torque wrench.
Hanging the calipers from the rafters is a novel idea, and one which I will use when I replace my dual-disc brake lines on my Lowrider. Good call on Goodridge brake lines! That is the kit I will use for front and rear on mine.
I guess I have had crappy brakes on all of my other metric bikes, because the Harley brakes seem to be good to me. But I tend to brake early and use engine compression to slow down. Before I got used to the brakes,......20 min. on the bike I had a slight panic stop. Depressed the rear to about half, and it lightly locked-up the rear,...enough to make it squeel. My rear is now my friend. The front is a dual-disc set-up and I haven't really leaned on them yet. No need.
Why go to the stealer and pay a lot of cash for work that you can do yourself? Watch this man's videos and he will save you money and time! It isn't rocket science here, you know. Just the ability to turn some wrenches and follow directions.
The more I ride my bike, the more I look to Delboy's Garage for help and information.
Cheers Del.
Roger
Was a crew chief for those birds, lo many years ago, and you got to the point of knowing just when the torque wrench would click by doing MANY panels over a long time.
You are right, it is all technique: I'm learning how to ride all over again.
Fun fact:
Haven't been on a bike in 35 years. Last bike was a 1982 CX-500. Just started riding the Harley last Tuesday.
Gawd,....I'm having so much fun!
Cheers!
Roger
Cheers ! Wow this video is definitely worth its weight in GOLD! If I were across the pond i'd buy you a pint!!
You are most welcome my friend... gald the video could help you out! ALl the best, Del
HEY ,Del ,,just whant too say thanks ,and i was very gratefull for ur help and patience in trying too sort out brakes on pit bike ,,got it sorted ,there was a faulty pump too push tha fluid ,,,ITS very hard too know when by mail ,,But man sending u brake pistion so hopefully that should be it .....Cheers mate any how and Have great xmas ..
Didn't notice this vid. Now confident to fit all my new stuff on Monday. See my latest vid, fitting the Joker Machine speedo relocating kit. Gotta remove the front wheel for that. Had to wait 3 damn weeks to get the riser bracket at my local HD shop. Thanks again Del.
@Rasd4Metta You can only really do this with a bike, and not all bikes either, its impossible to get the lines free from the vehicle when they are routed through body work, this is just exploiting the simplicity of the Harley's design and making life easier.... thanks buddy...
Delboy's Garage, I greatly appreciate your channel sharing knowledge. 👍🤙✌️
I appreciate that mate, glad it can help you, and thank you for your long term support.
Wow you can do it all!!! Great job on the brake bleeding!
I would of just gravity bleed them, been doing it that way for years and I've never had a problem! But your way is good too lol
i would be lying if i said i didnt enjoy listening to your accent!! AND i learned some about my nightster!!
Hi Sir ! i have ABS on mine . Anything i should do different before replacing the front break line ? (taller handle bars !). Hopefully you get to read this and you have the time to respond or direct me to another one of your amazing vids where everything explained . Much respect !!
It's pretty much the same, just whatever you do DON'T turn your ignition on whilst you're plumbing the system! You can gravity bleed the dry line by just leaving the hose off the caliper, dangled over a jug, fill the reservoir and gently massage the brake lever in and out, you'll see little bubbles pop up through the reservoir as gravity gradually pulls the fluid down the line, then once it's dripping out the bottom, connect it to the caliper and chase it through as normal... hope that helps you buddy and good luck with it!
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks ever so much Sir . You are a gold mine !!!
@@axelpteeg Most welcome, have fun with it!
Great video thanks a million worked like a charm greatly appreciated, keep up the videos I know they will help someone just like it did me!!!! Thanks again .....ROB
@jeffkill Hi Jef, thats a simple task buddy, just take the hose off the lowest point, (usually at the caliper), direct it into a jar, then open the reservior at the top, then just pump the lever until it all drains down and out... any left in the hose is ok, just take the hose off the top once the rez' is empty, and blow it through. hope that helps buddy... Del.
well i have tied off the lever and will leave it a day or too... did this on my old bike and it worked a treat.. bloody things are a pain in the arse... cheer :)
@Moonfleet41 Snowing... you love it! We are sitting in the mid 20s (C) but working too much to enjoy the bike. Video coming for sure!
why thank you sir, you are too kind... and you are right.. the Tinterweb is a wonderful thing somtimes.. ride safe.. Del.
You can pump from bottom to top the air bubbles always travels up, so get yourself a syringe from a livestock store plastic type and connect that clear tube and feed it right through the bleeder valve.
Dell ! Raising my handlebars have to change very short stock brake line! If I don't get all the air out of the line rather than take off the caliper couldn't I just use the rag wrap trick a couple of nights?
If you're changing a brake line mate, it will be empty and you'll find the lever will just flop straight in to the bar with no pressure... you will have to bleed it through if it's a new brake line... but it's not hard and takes about 10mins!
cheers for the reply, don't think you can join braided hoses to the HD pipe section, it would be the tidiest option.. but correct me if I'm wrong on this - I had 2 lines once on an old GSXR1100, the one with the rectanglar headlight ! worked fine.. the lines can't be the same length though, as one caliper is further away than the other..or am I missing something...I like your single line idea..though the routing of the secondary line over the front fender might be a bugger..u ever done this?
I had a shed load of bother bleeding the brakes on the bandit after strippin all the calipers and replacing seals etc... for me the only way which worked was to reverse bleed them... the exception being the rear caliper which bled easily...
@rockabillychuck Hey Chuck, hows it going mate.. glad it helps, im looking forward to seeing it when its all done so lets have a video aye.lol... cheers mate, hope your summer is cranking up now, its bladdy snowing here...paah.. !
Thank You Delboy for your reply
Is there a replacement sight glass for the front of an 06 brake master cylinder? Really need. Or a gloss black front master cylinder set up that uses stock levers?
Not sure Michael, why do you need a new sight glass, did you break it?...
Yep
Thanks for your help. I changed my first brake line.
Quick question...with those handlebars (look sharp) since they are not like huge ape hangers... do you need longer cables or will the stock work?
Good job and Thank you ... Doing this on my road king as soon as the new lines comes in. HD Dealer wanted to charge me about $200 for the job .... HAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Just did this right after replacing my fork seals. Thanks for the vid! bleeding the brakes went smoothly. Now that I put my brake caliper back on my fork though, my brake pads are rubbing. I jacked the front end up, and the front wheel hardly spins freely with the amount that the pads are rubbing. And when riding, it's very easy to hear the pads on the disc. Is there a way I can adjust the pads so this isn't happening?
Hi Will, ok are they the same brake pads, or new ones? And did you push them back and maybe rub some dirt in to the seals? If they're binding, this can be a common effect of a dirty caliper, why not drop the pads out, pump the pistons out just a little bit till you see a clean line around then, then with a toothbrush and brake cleaner, scrub all round the pistons and get them spotless, you could even use hot soapy water if they're really bad... then reinstall the pads, put it all back together they they should be fine.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for the tip. Right as I went to do this, I realized I didn't properly clip the little spring clip on one of the pads and the spring clip was rubbing against the rotor and causing a horrible metal on metal sound. Big thanks for all the vids and advice--I don't know where I'd be without them and my manual.
@terroristone kewl, make sure you post up a sneek peek, like to see them..
Thank you for past info. 99 883 with 4500 miles that has sat several years. I've been replacing tires/fluids. Now brakes. Going to replace lines and pads (as you reccomended). Also thought it smart to remove the cylinders and clean them up. My question, if I run into an area im unsure of can I reach out to you to help clear it up? Its alot to ask so figured I'd check with you. Either way, grateful to you.
Hi Tom, if you're planning to strip and rebuild your brake master cylinders and calipers, why not fit new seals at the same time, that will cover every possible problem.. and yes, feel free to drop me a line if you need to and ill try to help if i can mate.. !
Hi Del,,,,mate i just checked out brake hose pipe ,and bleeder screw ,i can blow threw them fine and no kink on cables ,,can i take off tha banjo bolt at tha brake caliper,and fill it up straight out off jar ,as i see that tha brake caliber isnt full too tha top when i remove tha banjo bolt and look in ..
IS that bleeder line a part available only at the dealer or is it something you can just pick up from the hardware store, it appears to have a fitting on it
I have a 2016 48 sportster with ABS and I'm installing apes and a longer front brake line...I was told it has to be done at the dealership because if even a tiny bit of air gets into the ABS unit you've got trouble . Can you advise.. thanks bro
You can fill an empty brake hose if you know how to do it, I personally reverse bleed them from the caliper, but I think rather than just a longer front brake hose, are you sure you don't have the one piece welded block under your bottom yoke that links to the ABS... if you do, it's dealer fit only. You can easily spot it, it's when the hose comes up from the caliper and feeds in to a solid metal block that then splits two different ways, one backwards to the ABS pump and the other up to the bars.
@@Moonfleet41 thanks for the reply...yes I have a block under the bottom yoke where two brake line fittings from the ABS are screwed into it and the block comes with a fixed welded bottom line which goes to the caliper and a welded top line goes to the reservoir. ..
What about bleeding on ABS breaks .?
@terroristone mate, i have always done that, it guarantees a complete bleed, first time every time. even on a twin disk setup, hang them up together and bleed them one at a time, easy. Good luck with it buddy, (what bars are you going for..?)
Del.