I watched your video a couple times, then got the nerve up to change the switch on mine. The biggest PIA was getting the new gasket lined up right. Other than that, it went quickly and smoothly, thanks to your video. THANK YOU!
My switch was stuck, and I had a new replacement on hand. Of course I went with the same model. I purchased the switch kit, and it's ready to go back into service when necessary. Having a backup is always a good idea. Who has time to run to a plumbing supply in an emergency? This video helped a great deal.
Great video! So many bad videos on youtube, but yours was clear concise and informational. Thanks for speeding up the parts that would have been boring. BIG THUMBS UP!!!
@@MitchDeitrich great video ! i am from the UK and i install these in basements over here. Is there a way to adjust the float switch level at all ? ie change it to a variable level unit thanks
Great video. I removed the switch from the housing first and removed old gasket and replaced with new gasket with sealer. Then I marked black wire connectors with perm marker and removed wires one at a time. Then I mounted the switch back to the housing. Works great - using mine as a back up for my new pump.
Thank you for the video post, I will be doing the same thing, my first Zoeller pump lasted about 7 years before the switch started acting up, I called the installer and he replace it with a new one of the same, now just 5 years later I'm having switch problems with this one. I will be ordering a new switch and gasket via Amazon very very soon, thanks again.
Just did this with your vid. Thanks a bunch, man. My pump is 5.5 years old. Had the exact same burnt electronics smell. I covered all points of entry as well with silicone to be sure.
Thanks for the informative vid!!! Just bought the kit on amazon...luckily the rain stopped and none in the forecast so I'll put the new switch in when it arrives in 2 days. Looks like a new $200 sump pump is going back to home depot :)
Great video. I've encountered the very same situation recently w/ my Zoeller M53 pump, and while I suspected it was a switch problem, I wasn't quite sure. Thanks.
Thanks, I almost ordered a complete switch, housing and all, for $175. Nice editing and concise instructions. I'd be happy to watch an ad in exchange for the video...just sayin"
thanks a very much on the video on M98 Zoeller i had a ground problem the wire had been pull off clean could not tell how it was mounted. and black wire coming from the Maines had no medal clip to put on the end of line. if not for the details you had i was able to move around and zoom in. Now i have one question for you. the four screws that was used on the switch housing some were bent tore up looked like all they had to was a crowbar and hammer to work on getting switch replacement. do you have dimensions of screws that go in switch box on top of pump someone told me thought #10-32-3/4in.i tried that, after i screw it in as far as i felt comfortable the screw still had 1/8 or more sticking up. ant ideas G. Marsh
You refer to the compartment being wet, and that being a sign of a leak. Mine had a substantial amount of oil inside which had to be from manufacturer. Are you sure it was water in yours?
I have the same pump, and so far the switch has experienced this issue multiple times. It seems like it will go for about two years and then the issue comes up. The pump has a warrenty on it, however evrytime the repair guy comes out, he says I need a new pump, and he takes the original pump with him when he leaves. $300 or more for the new pump and $200 at least to come out. I know he is ripping me off. I don't want to mess with this myself, what are my options. I saw a tilt switch with a piggy back plug might be a good option...that I can do. Any thoughts?
I bought m98 last year and it does not run anymore. They should last longer than that. I pulled the pump out and going to troubleshoot. Should I order the new switch ahead or you can check the motor to see if it is good by bypassing the switch
I have some questions. Do you think the failure of the switch was water entering the switch compartment ? Do you suspect the power cord entry hole or the gasket as the failure ? Since the switch is at the very top of the pump, does it ever go completely under water ?
QUESTION!! First off, very informative video as I have the exact model and it too, has been 7 years since I've bought it and dropped into my sump it. my question is, it's been 7 years and my switch seems ok and sump runs only during heavy rain storms. Should I go ahead and replace the FLOAT SWITCH now since the pump is 7 years old or do you recommend, if it isn't broke, don't fix it? I'd hate when it's broken.... to fix it.thanks!
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem, and bought the same switch. The switch replacement went well, but the old white plastic piece that screws into the side broke when I removed it. There is a new one with the kit, so that's not a problem. But I'm finding it very hard to get the old one all out - very fine threads, and the old one is sort-of embedded in the old threads.
ps-my switch is sticking right before flloat hits top. I have to give it a nudge, then it kicks on. Maybe it just needs cleaning. I haven't taken the pump out of well yet to look at it.
thanks the government and envirnmental concerns - mercury switches are no longer available - worked great but no longer availabe. Go with a LevelGuard or HydroCheck electronic switch and just tie wrap the switch up in the on position or if ambutious eliminate the switch completly.
I think I would have replaced the AC cord and the cord seal. Just daubing some silicone caulk on there might not be a reliable long-term fix. This is a submersible pump which must be sealed 100%. Actually I am critical of that pump because of its very short cycle time.
I recently had a Zoeller M53, go out. The issue is that it the pump does not always switch on when the water level rises. Do you know off hand if this would possibly be due to the sump pump switch? If it is then this fix may work for me.
The M53 is a good pump with a bad switch design. Google "Zoeller Pump Switch" and you'll find that this has been a longstanding issue with these pumps. The switch just broke on my second Zoeller M53 pump. Seven years seems to be the sweet spot for these to fail but of course this will vary according to # of cycles, etc.
ap777200 yes that sounds correct. I would replace the swich if you want to extend the life of the pump. it is cheaper then a new pump. however my happen again in a handful of years.
Zoellers have garnered a bad rep over the past couple of years. Most techs I know have flat out switched to a Liberty or equivalent, or locked out the old internal switch and put an external float switch. They got cheap on the gasket so that is why they fail, badly.
Very common problem with zoeller pumps. Leak in the switch compartment causes the switch & connections to corrode. They are garbage. & replacement switches are outrageously overpriced. I recommend folks avoid any pump with an integral switch & just use a tethered float. Nice video though.
My in-laws have a pump that is pushing 30 years! They replaced the switch once and it is still going. I live next to Lake St. Clair and no pump will last more than 10 years here. Runs constantly.
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I’ve used this video TWICE in two years. Still cheaper than replacing the pump by a large margin. THANK YOU.
I watched your video a couple times, then got the nerve up to change the switch on mine. The biggest PIA was getting the new gasket lined up right. Other than that, it went quickly and smoothly, thanks to your video. THANK YOU!
My switch was stuck, and I had a new replacement on hand. Of course I went with the same model. I purchased the switch kit, and it's ready to go back into service when necessary. Having a backup is always a good idea. Who has time to run to a plumbing supply in an emergency? This video helped a great deal.
Great video! So many bad videos on youtube, but yours was clear concise and informational. Thanks for speeding up the parts that would have been boring. BIG THUMBS UP!!!
Awesome! Thanks a bunch :)
@@MitchDeitrich great video ! i am from the UK and i install these in basements over here. Is there a way to adjust the float switch level at all ? ie change it to a variable level unit
thanks
Great video. I removed the switch from the housing first and removed old gasket and replaced with new gasket with sealer. Then I marked black wire connectors with perm marker and removed wires one at a time. Then I mounted the switch back to the housing. Works great - using mine as a back up for my new pump.
Thank you for the video post, I will be doing the same thing, my first Zoeller pump lasted about 7 years before the switch started acting up, I called the installer and he replace it with a new one of the same, now just 5 years later I'm having switch problems with this one. I will be ordering a new switch and gasket via Amazon very very soon, thanks again.
Just did this with your vid. Thanks a bunch, man. My pump is 5.5 years old. Had the exact same burnt electronics smell. I covered all points of entry as well with silicone to be sure.
I can’t believe how easy that was. Thanks bro
Thanks for the informative vid!!!
Just bought the kit on amazon...luckily the rain stopped and none in the forecast so I'll put the new switch in when it arrives in 2 days. Looks like a new $200 sump pump is going back to home depot :)
Great video. I've encountered the very same situation recently w/ my Zoeller M53 pump, and while I suspected it was a switch problem, I wasn't quite sure. Thanks.
Thanks, I almost ordered a complete switch, housing and all, for $175. Nice editing and concise instructions. I'd be happy to watch an ad in exchange for the video...just sayin"
Still a very relevant video ... thanks for the link for the part as well.
Super helpful and straight to the point! Thank you!
Best video of how to do this! Thank you!
Thank you for the video and showing the part number of the switch. I was able to fix mine.
You just saved me over $300! Thanks for the video!
Thanks for posting. It will come in handy.
Sweet! 27 bucks is far better than buying a new pump! Thanks for sharing.
Your trash my treasure oh yeah I agree! thanks :)
thanks a very much on the video on M98 Zoeller i had a ground problem the wire had been pull off clean could not tell how it was mounted. and black wire coming from the Maines had no medal clip to put on the end of line. if not for the details you had i was able to move around and zoom in. Now i have one question for you. the four screws that was used on the switch housing some were bent tore up looked like all they had to was a crowbar and hammer to work on getting switch replacement. do you have dimensions of screws that go in switch box on top of pump someone told me thought #10-32-3/4in.i tried that, after i screw it in as far as i felt comfortable the screw still had 1/8 or more sticking up. ant ideas G. Marsh
Worked like a charm, thank you for the help.
You refer to the compartment being wet, and that being a sign of a leak. Mine had a substantial amount of oil inside which had to be from manufacturer. Are you sure it was water in yours?
Great, simple video. Thanks!
I have the same pump, and so far the switch has experienced this issue multiple times. It seems like it will go for about two years and then the issue comes up. The pump has a warrenty on it, however evrytime the repair guy comes out, he says I need a new pump, and he takes the original pump with him when he leaves. $300 or more for the new pump and $200 at least to come out. I know he is ripping me off. I don't want to mess with this myself, what are my options. I saw a tilt switch with a piggy back plug might be a good option...that I can do. Any thoughts?
I bought m98 last year and it does not run anymore. They should last longer than that. I pulled the pump out and going to troubleshoot. Should I order the new switch ahead or you can check the motor to see if it is good by bypassing the switch
I have some questions. Do you think the failure of the switch was water entering the switch compartment ? Do you suspect the power cord entry hole or the gasket as the failure ? Since the switch is at the very top of the pump, does it ever go completely under water ?
I believe so.
Thanks for the video! You did a great job!
QUESTION!! First off, very informative video as I have the exact model and it too, has been 7 years since I've bought it and dropped into my sump it. my question is, it's been 7 years and my switch seems ok and sump runs only during heavy rain storms. Should I go ahead and replace the FLOAT SWITCH now since the pump is 7 years old or do you recommend, if it isn't broke, don't fix it? I'd hate when it's broken.... to fix it.thanks!
Well, now it's 5 years or so since your post. What did you do?
Thanks for the video. I have the same problem on mine. I will try to fix it.
How old was Zoeller model53?
hey what kind of silicone did you use?
What if a sump pump with flot won't drink till dry just leaves lots of water behind still
Very helpful, thank you!
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem, and bought the same switch. The switch replacement went well, but the old white plastic piece that screws into the side broke when I removed it. There is a new one with the kit, so that's not a problem. But I'm finding it very hard to get the old one all out - very fine threads, and the old one is sort-of embedded in the old threads.
oh man sorry to hear that! Maybe some heat would help?
ps-my switch is sticking right before flloat hits top. I have to give it a nudge, then it kicks on. Maybe it just needs cleaning. I haven't taken the pump out of well yet to look at it.
Mine is doing the same thing. It doesn't come on sometimes, but with just a light tap on the drain pipe, it starts up. Did you ever figure it out?
Where can buy sump floats with mercury switch and not the unreliable mechanical switch?
thanks the government and envirnmental concerns - mercury switches are no longer available - worked great but no longer availabe. Go with a LevelGuard or HydroCheck electronic switch and just tie wrap the switch up in the on position or if ambutious eliminate the switch completly.
Well done. Thank you!
I think I would have replaced the AC cord and the cord seal. Just daubing some silicone caulk on there might not be a reliable long-term fix. This is a submersible pump which must be sealed 100%. Actually I am critical of that pump because of its very short cycle time.
thanks fixed the problem.....
I recently had a Zoeller M53, go out. The issue is that it the pump does not always switch on when the water level rises. Do you know off hand if this would possibly be due to the sump pump switch? If it is then this fix may work for me.
The M53 is a good pump with a bad switch design. Google "Zoeller Pump Switch" and you'll find that this has been a longstanding issue with these pumps. The switch just broke on my second Zoeller M53 pump. Seven years seems to be the sweet spot for these to fail but of course this will vary according to # of cycles, etc.
ap777200 yes that sounds correct. I would replace the swich if you want to extend the life of the pump. it is cheaper then a new pump. however my happen again in a handful of years.
The switch as of 2/10/2020 is $32.64 on Amazon
Awesome!!
A little silicone goes a long way for protection from water.
👍👍👍👍
Bob Lee's Woodshop thanks Bob!
Zoellers have garnered a bad rep over the past couple of years. Most techs I know have flat out switched to a Liberty or equivalent, or locked out the old internal switch and put an external float switch. They got cheap on the gasket so that is why they fail, badly.
Exactly.
Very common problem with zoeller pumps. Leak in the switch compartment causes the switch & connections to corrode. They are garbage. & replacement switches are outrageously overpriced. I recommend folks avoid any pump with an integral switch & just use a tethered float. Nice video though.
Now the swicth is $50.....damn inflation.
Not a good Ad for Zoeller's best pump. Leaks at the point it should NEVER leak from, bad on them.
So what you're saying is when you're replace the switch but more silicone more silicone and more silicone on it to seal it up LOL
Throw that bullshit switch away and get a remote float switch
you crazy man - you unplugeed something in the video - but you are already unplugged - why don't you google - google
Shogun-Jimi you're just not making any sense Jimi.I just goggled goggle and it takes me to goggle lol !
Change that pump. Its 7 years old
My in-laws have a pump that is pushing 30 years! They replaced the switch once and it is still going. I live next to Lake St. Clair and no pump will last more than 10 years here. Runs constantly.
Pump can easily last 50 years plus. You need to put good switch