Is a Breather or PCV better for Turbo LS? Well I can't believe it made that much difference.
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2024
- I decided to actually measure the pressure generated at the crankcase. I'm surprised with the result, I did not realize PCV would make that much of a difference.
Links to the parts used: Purchased off amazon.
ACDelco Professional 214-2296 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve
amzn.to/33RlCcv
Elite Engineering - 1/2" (13mm) High Flow Check Valve - One-Way Automotive Fuel Check Valve - Hose Barb Ends - High Temperature and Pressure
amzn.to/3AkUgb5
Check Valve, 2 Pieces 3/8" 10mm Inline ABS 1 Way Water Non Return Check Valve for Fuel Gas Liquid Air
amzn.to/3InK3x7
RULLINE Oil Catch can kit,air Oil Separator,Oil Catch Can Tank, Universal Reservoir with Breather Hose Kit Aluminum Polish Baffled 350ml Black
amzn.to/3qNqTLp
HFS (R) Carburetor Carb Valve Fuel Pump Pressure & Vacuum Tester Gauge Test Kit
amzn.to/3fGUUGn
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Excellent explaining🤙🏽
🤝😁
Bro I can't wait for this build to be done, I wanna see this thing irl
😅 not sure if that will ever happen, with a target weight of 2800 that's skeleton/tube chassis deal 🤔
4 TURBOS!!! nutty
In my boosted 97 cobra I run a oil breather catch can the Oct system resulted in too much crank case pressure and would try to blow oil out no issues with the catch can breather set up
hahaha literally watching this for info on my b5 s4 and had no idea that you were the guy with the quad turbo ls b5. Just saw the underside of the hood and was like wait a minute..lolll
Dope vid
Thanks bro
Venting into the Impellers is Stoopid as it stuffs crank blowby products ie; Oils, acids, moisture.. through the IC... the intakes and into the combustion. Racers use a one way valve into the header collector which Suction vents the crankcase.
You connected the fresh air side to the intake side of the turbo right? Does it seem to idol smoother?
Hi, did you use an aluminium one way valve for fuel, please?
Where you get the gauge
So add a oil catch tank will solve rite
I installed a M/E Wagner PCV valve with adjustable Idle and cruise circuits. Result is 3 to 5 in. of crankcase vacuum. I noticed a difference in HP and torque not to mention ZERO oil leaks...
Nice little unit. Looks like spring operated. I'm opting out to remove this for the time being and just vent to the atmosphere. Going to see if that's the source of my random iratic idle issue
Any idea why I would get blow by out of oil filler hole (oil cap removed/ oil stick in) and no blow by out of oil filler dipstick tube (oil stick removed / oil cap on). I would expect them to both be blowing as I assume they valve area is open to crankcase area.... Really confused!
would assume that the dipstick goes below oil level so unless oil levesl are low enough which they would never be your not goin to get pressure back that way but oil filler cap or anywhere else at the top of the engine where pressure is trying to vent is where you would expect the most ventilation to escape
Hey man I have a NA setup and I can’t find any straight answers on the correct way to run my catch can and what to cap off. Any help? Should I run it like you did and cap that back line that you ran to the turbo?
What year LS? Typically for NA you use the same ports and just add the catch can on series. So it's pcv-> catch can -> post TB port. Then the other valvecover port is used as a clean side/pre TB. Which valley cover btw?
Do you have to run it "back" into the intake? Seems to me we would be sending contaminated oil condensation back into the intake..? Can a guy run a hose down to the frame? I know in some states that is illegal. Just curious,
I have a (new to me) 2006 mustang 4.0 v6 that has been supercharged. In order to house the sc a fabricated intake manifold needed to be made. A company called Marana out of Canada made it. The current emissions set up is;
-no passenger side pcv hose (the valve is there, but no hose.
-no drivers side ccv hose (if that is correct to call it that)
-egr delete
-dynoed at 380 rwhp
Where did you get the pressure guage you are using to test this pressure??
Thanks
You don't have to route it back to the intake, but if you dont it won't pull any air when cruising around. Check out my latest upload to see the setup that works well. Pressure gauge is just a standard vacuum gauge. Like a mechanice tool not a car gauge
Hi 👋 I recently just added a 2nd oil catch can for the crankcase. I was only running a mini filter but I noticed oil would leak out from the mini filter, so I decided to add another oil catch can. My question for you is do I need a one way check valve for the crankcase oil catch can setup? Or do I only install one on the PCV oil catch can outlet line? Both oil catch can doesn’t have a filter on top of the oil catch can. I bought the one that doesn’t have one
I have since modified this and have a working setup now. For a boosted car you need a 1 way check valve. It's valve cover-> catch can -> pcv(to reduce flow) -> 1 way flow valve -> intake manifold.
@@MarnellBalmeo So it’s not necessary for me to get one if I don’t have a booster engine?
How can you keep pressure with the filter on the catch can? I have two one for each intake but there’s a hissing noise that comes from it and when I cover it pressure comes back and engine runs normal again. When I have them on my car chops but that’s because the RPMs go 1, 2, 1, 3, 1, 2 etc..
Idk if you noticed but he put a one way valve in between the tank and the breather. That means it can only draw excess pressure out and not draw any air in (as is what’s happening in your scenario)
what a mess i just use a hose down engine to ground
Holy hell. This is the first LS i have seen with 4 turbos? Anyhow that catch can is way to small. On my 1.8 liter boosted b series i have four -10 lines running to a 2 liter can mounted near the back of the chassis.
Yea I've gone through some iteration since then, definitely gone with a much larger lines now
You could vent to the exhaust and it will pull a vacuum with a venturi
Won't work well with my setup as I have a very restricted exhaust to control noise. So exhaust will end up in the crank case. It will work when cutout is open but majority of the time I drive with exhaust cutout closed.
it can work, you can run 2 lines, even pull from after the muff. also, use a old school smog pump 1 way valve at the ex pipe so it can only pull, even in case of a backfire.@@MarnellBalmeo
Install a block breather lying to catch camp
Why would you put a breather on the PCV catch can side? That defeats the purpose of the catch can, as you need vacuum on the catch can side of the line to capture the oil. If you place a breather on the top of the catch can, you’re defeating the purpose. You do need a UPR breather on the oil cap, but you need to keep the PCV line pressurized.
Breather on a pcv catch can is fine as long as there is a 1 way flow valve-which i added here. This is similar setup as a mighty mouse catch can- which is one of the best out there for the LS. What it does is allow vacuum in your pcv but it acts as a breather under boost when you get pressure in your crank case. I did make a mistake on this that I put the PCV valve before the catch can. I later corrected that on another video. it should be valve cover hose->catch can ( vented with 1 way flow valve out)-> PCV valve -> 1 way flow valve -> post TB. This setup sees vacuum full time unless I go WOT. PCV line should never be pressurize, should be on vacuum or 0. Its now on its final iteration and have another fully vented catch can with 2 12an lines as breather on the oil cap was not enough for the flow its pushing.
@@MarnellBalmeo thanks for sharing.
@@MarnellBalmeo I have a 335i with 562whp, I have a dual baffled oil catch can with a crankcase breather (pcv delete) but I am having problems with the breather seeping. I don't think my coolant is leaking into the engine (exhaust doesn't smell sweet, coolant level seems to be staying the same) but when I have the oil cap off the catch can immediately stops seeping. Any suggestion on where to start?
@@becausereasons41 what do you mean by seeping?
@@MarnellBalmeo the breather was dripping a foamy combo of oily fluff. I have fixed it with a oil cap crankcase breather with a diaphragm. Hasn't dripped anything out of the catch can since then.
You're discovering the benefits of crankcase evacuation... Here's my question... Now we both know that crankcase evacuation pumps exist. The problem is they are all race only parts. Start driving that thing on the street, and eventually the pump is going to crap itself.
But the new gen 5 engines have a vacuum pump already. It's fed pressurized oil from the block and drains back into the oil pan. If we put lines on it, we could potentially run it as an external pump with OEM reliability to pull a crankcase vacuum.
In your case you're feeding way too many turbos and probably don't have the oil volume for it, but most other turbo guys or supercharger guys would.
Just food for thought
Yea there is some people using smog pump as pcv vacuum pump. I opted against it bc if that fails I won't know right away, could be enough to blow the engine(if that's the only way out as a sealed pcv set up)
Why would you use a pcv valve to limit pressure relief that’s not the way you want to do it
I have since changed this to dual setup, which works much better. Even now still use the pcv valve mainly bc out of all the documents I found you also don't want full vacuum in your crank case. The other part of this is without that being limited I would now be introducing huge amount of air at idle as the port is after the TB. While I haven't tried that port being opened I'm going to guess it going to idle to the moon lol
Quad turbo. Flexing much??
The awd manual LS is the true flex