👟Step into waterproof comfort with Vessi’s Black Friday Sale! Stay dry and save big at urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__vessi.com&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=U0G2iLNGxMJHipuyTjYtVtCETpsRENQlxLwAG1FmnD0&m=u-CPoKYDU1t4Ak-K3_T9hqa8aI1c7xpQg3A7Kcn0m3Xf1NS8ua-WkqjZ6ziYjSEn&s=zy_IkEQg4bIny6C1pS5R9fG761kP_ArQKhlX_nLSY2I&e= - shop now before the best deals slip away!
Get some secondhand sail material at one of the marinas you dock at, turn it into a roll up awning and run it from the back of the cabin to the davit and you can cover your whole deck
don't forget to get a radar diamond so other boats can actually see you on radar. it just makes it easier for other boats with radar to see your boat better. I used to work in Sooke BC at Marine search and rescue🥰
There are much better radar reflectors available than a simple diamond or a tubular stack of aluminum corners. Echomax (or similar) blow the simple reflectors out of the water. An order of magnitude better returns and from a much wider selection of angles.
One of the main reasons you see stainless rust is from the hardware. People think stainless hardware is just good to go. What the don’t think about is the fact that all the tooling used to manufacture said hardware is made from steel. And the cutting oil used has steel micro shavings in it. To combat this. We always clean our hardware in a bucket of acetone first. Just dump it in the bucket. Swish it around a bit. Let it sit and then use it. The other reason it rusts is because people burn the welds in too hot and it burns the chromium out of it. Also. Remember. It’s stain”less”. Not stain “free”. (My dad always said that). One more thing to say. On your exhaust. You need a mount that goes from the pipe to the underside of the deck as close to the muffler side of the bellows joint as possible. Just the weight of the pipe will be enough to crack that bellows flex pipe. I’ve seen it main times. I live on vinalhaven island. One of the largest producers of lobster !!
I don't have much to say, but I felt like I should share how much I liked this video. I'm not sure exactly what made me like it so much but I've just spent the last 1h30 pretty much glued to my seat watching it. Thank you for this, this was great.
I'd keep the front hand rails. Just paint them black to reduce light glare. Also, if possible, add more hand rails. Having lots of places to grab a hold of on the water is always useful.
I'm just gonna go ahead and say this. I'm fricking proud of you bro. I've been enjoying your content for years, since the FT days and seeing you take on such a monster of a project and see it through just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy.
Nobody does complete build videos paced with this much content in this amount of time on RUclips anymore - even though they're the _best_ type of DIY build video. I'm not even a boat guy (can't recall which of your OG FT-era videos I got hooked on) and this was - by far - one of your best if not THE best video you've ever put out. For that matter, I'd say this is one of the best and most satisfying build videos I've seen on YT all year. Congrats. Sure, some things might need some more fettling, but you've done a hell of a job not to mention a hell of a trip too. Bravo, Peter. Bravo.
I was a lobsterman for years. That exhaust pipe is usually uninsulated. When you are out lobstering in the winter, and your hands start to freeze, you grab onto that exhaust pipe to thaw your hands out.
@@DavidIvan-AC I know another myth and that is you ever going to get a girlfriend Mr cringe no rizz do you think a guy that literally worked on a big boat would lie the only the exhaust you are thinking about is a car or a small engine exhaust that is only a foot long yes it would be hot and he probably didn't actually grab on to it for very long and probably just held there hands near the exhaust
20:18 I work with fiberglass mainly on water rides at a theme park, nothing more fun, (in the most sarcastic way you can possibly take that), than grinding out your small de-lamination and just watching it grow and grow and grow. I love working with a 61 year old log flume and 41 year old rapids rafts! :(
1:04:39 That looks like it might be "Lovebug", a 122-foot, $8,000,000 yacht that sunk earlier this year! (there were no casualties, all 5 people were rescued thankfully) In your footage, it's actually being re-floated by Donjon Marine Co. for salvage, so it's technically "payday" for them lol
TotalBoat - All these years of watching creators use their products, this is the first time seeing it used on an actual boat! #BotalToatFTW - am I right Xyla
I was thinking the same. Or a water catching arrangement that diverts it safely away from the engine. Probably too late for that now it's all pretty, so the flap might have to do.
for the hole under the boat, you should have ground a border edge that was at least 6 to 10 inches where the repair fibergl overlaps the border not just fill a hole in!
I have been welding dirt circle track race car chassis together for 28 years, your welds are perfectly fine. They don't have to be the prettiest, they just have to penetrate right and not be contaminated.
So I know you don't want to hear this, but when you're patching a hole that deep in structural fiberglass you need to have 2 inches of overhang on every single lair. So if that boat is 8 layers thick. And I assume you patched 6. Your 6" patch would be first, then a square patch 10x10", 14x14, 18x18.. and so on. THAT'S why people usually write off fiberglass damage, it's much more work than just building a plug.
Actually it’s the other way around. Might seem counter intuitive, but you start with the largest piece and the build thickness with smaller and smaller pieces. ruclips.net/video/6N7YMr6E564/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Hey Peter, I'm a machinist. Use cobalt drills. They will blow thru stainless, Titanium, steel. Etc. It will blow ur mind how easy drilling will be. Or solid carbide. Personally Cobalt is my pick. Knkut is one of my favorite companies for drill bits.
Solid carbide is the jam. Spade solid carbide drills are very inexpensive, they're perfect for jobs like this where you're doing only a few holes in a difficult material. I use them in the boat yard all the time. The ones that aren't good enough for drilling stainless are perfect for drilling through fiberglass.
There is a substantial drag component to that. Keel coolers really only used if operating in very shallow or turbid environments at low speeds. He's got a proper marine motor, treated right that engine will last 30 years. The heat exchanger loop ain't a big deal.
When drilling stainless, you CANNOT let the drill bit idle or it will overheat the corners of the drill and dull it immediately. Use a sharp drill, lubrication to remove heat and make sure you are getting material coming off the drill bit right away (i.e. make sure you have some pressure on the drill). If you do dull the drill bit, STOP!. You can work harden many grades of SS which only makes the job much harder. Buy a new drill bit (or sharpen it if you know how) and try again.
"work hardening" is new to me, and i guess it was something i knew intuitively, but never realized there was a reason it was happening. I have had drill experiences like this. Now i know why. Wow.
Work hardening and heat treating are NOT the same thing. What you are talking about here is heat treating. Work hardening happens by plastic (permanent) deformation. Heat can also ruin things that are already heat-treated and will ruin springs.
A millwright here, I work with pumps with packing every day. If your unsure on packing tension it's really easy to set it to tight and burn out. If you're unsure if it's set to tight, check the stuffing box temps after a while of running. You can smoke put that packing in no time
I always backed them out on my tug until I had a steady drip, then inched them back tight until I had a very minor drip while running in gear. I would use the back of my palm on my engine room checks to make sure nothing was getting too hot.
To drill existing holes larger, first thread on the hole saw you want to step up to, then inside that thread on a hole saw according to the existing hole size. The inside smallrr hole saw will maintain a straight drill.
Zinc catalyzes reactions with(in) diesel fuel. So avoid using any materials with zinc which comes in contact with fuel. Copper is also a problem to a lesser extent. The Navy tried zinc plating in fuel tanks during the WWII era, and while it stopped rust, it did nasty things to fuel. Think varnishes like plastic coating everything in the system. Those manifolds have pretty small surface area, so it will probably be fine though. I believe tin plating is acceptable though.
Contaminated stainless steel will rust. After welding, you should treat it with a pickling paste. Also never use steel brushes or something on stainless.
That's also why you ideally use stainless screw bits to install stainless screws. Any microscopic bits of carbon steel or tool steel embedded in the stainless surface will act as starting points for rusting even if the rusting will in the beginning be mostly just cosmetic.
On the bottom of the hull where you found delamination you can just drill a few small holes just half way into the area and inject resin/hardener. Let it harden and it will make it solid. Go visit Jiggin with Jordan. He loves the underwater diving.
That's the hack way to do it. Those layers need to be intimately bonded together. The strength is in the fiberglass, not the epoxy. If the fiberglass is delaminated trying to jam epoxy in there and getting it to bond properly is not the way it's done.
It was like a movie! But knowing this is the only beginning of the journey, I feel so exciting. I really enjoyed watching from start to end. Thank you for sharing those footages at ocean. Thank you for your time. Looking forward to seeing more.
You've got the best attitude towards being a new boater. Caution and forethought are top priorities. Knowing your boat enough to troubleshoot and fix it puts you ahead of most. Things can and will go bad and compound fast, so predicting these things keeps everyone happy and alive longer. A reverse cycle AC will make life better, don't cheap out on some home depot junk there.
glad you mentioned the AC -- another reason it's a great idea is that humidity is your mortal enemy in boat interiors and having something that can remove it for you is super clutch.
Congratulations and job well-done! You went through some trials and tribulations, but it looks like you're super-happy and having fun. It's been a blast watching your videos through the years. I wish you the best of luck and everything else. Kick ass and take names man!
well done! I am from maine, downeaster is a way of life. By the time you can really complain of something boat related... look back at how many hours have gone by. Undoubtable is only an adjective that comes back as a reflection of your time. I look forward to your unique adventures.
Hey, you can use a tack cloth after you sand to get all that wood dust off before staining/sealing. Have no idea about electrical / boat stuff but a bit of carpentry I know!
Great Job. I live in RI and tried to find the boat when I was in the Bristol area. Don’t listen to these Monday Morning Quarterback’s, you do you. Tight Lines, brother.
One little thing that I found helpful. You’re going to get a ton of water on your windshield, If you’re having trouble seeing or the water is bothering you, put some rain-x water repellent.
I was always taught to tear fiberglass matt rather than cutting it. Apparently the fibers weave together much better when you've got a ragged piece of mat.
On the light boards, you have to cover the epoxy with some sort of UV protective layer. For example, varnish or clearcoat polyurethane (preferably two part). The epoxy will yellow and dull 100 percent for sure. And this is true even if the epoxy claims to be UV resistant.
some helicopters do, the airbus h125 is one right off the top of my head. some ships do as well, they're usually called salvage bags and taken along when people aren't exactly confident in the integrity of the hull while put puttin it along to some other place for work. the reason all boats dont use em is because they've gotta be tough to survive 50+ tons of boat x unlimited force of the ocean and that makes them bulky, even when deflated and the required gas to fill them up is also another storage issue, the majority of smaller boats just have a foamed up hull that's basically semi impossible to sink without it taking on amazo amounts of water and then have back up of a back up of a backup of the back of of the water pump and 12v/24v marine batteries to run them.
Love the boat series! Very nice job. You emphasize that you don't know what you're doing. I hope this is your usual understatement because the sea is a harsh mistress so please take care. There is quite a lot of things to know to not get into trouble and marine technology is not the most important one (meteology, navigation and emergency procedures are). But since you're a pilot I am not too worried. Looking forward to more videos of this awesome adventure.
my only negative about your tig welding is that you are getting too much heat into the stainless. once it turns grey, it is no longer stainless. you need to move a bit faster on you welds to make sure it still has some color in it. if that means you need to turn up the amps to weld faster, that is fine. welding time is your biggest enemy here, not the amperage.
Congrats on getting the boat done! I'm a bit concerned about some of the fiberglass stuff you did though... and that G10 over a hole and fairing it up was not even really fiberglass where it probably needed to be. It'll probably be okay for a little while but next time you haul out you really need to fix a few of these things. That engine also seems like an unnecessarily expensive way of repowering but idk what you were up against with that. I hope this video pays off though, I barely noticed the hour and a half go by but it was not lost on me how quickly you had to bring out another thousand, it seemed like every 30 seconds was another grand. Also, idk if you've seen his channel but Hyperspace Pirate has some old videos about ROVs, and a lot of cool newer science videos including AC videos, and iirc he's in florida. Maybe you could collab on a heat pump/AC system for the boat for those FL summers operating ROVs or just do some other cool science together.
8:10 stainless 316 is extremely corrosion resistant, it can still rust a little after multiple years in harsh conditions (aka on a boat) but a simple coat of paint is enough to fully future-proof it. 304 however.. It's fine for clean environments, but anything more aggressive like frequent rain, boats and industrial cleaning products can still easily make it rust with time. I work as an industrial designer at a company that makes special-purpose machines, We use 304 a lot, but for anything pharmaceutical 316 is a must, especially with some of the crazy dangerous chemicals they use for cleaning.
1:10 If you didn't build it with an oil change pump system you can still use a regular topside oil extractor. Takes a little while but it's not a big deal.
Thank you so much Peter, I was so totally entertained. I know it's a huge investment, but I think it was well spent. A true adventure that you will never forget. I want to do the same project some day. I hope you will be break down what you spent for us dummies who have similar dreams. Just the major things, like 1.used boat, 2. engine, 3. electronics 4. miscellaneous stuff estimate.
Make sure you put an anode on that prop if you don't wanna replace it next year. I recommend SALCA line cutter anodes, they serve a dual purpose of protecting your prop from corrosion, and also line cutters in case you get a crab trap or fishing line caught in it. I've had to dive under boats to cut lines off and it's a PAIN. They're only $30 but save you thousands in maintenance and diving .
As a fabricator and TIG welder, when it comes to stainless steel and drilling, lube/cutting fluid yes BUT also control the heat, stainless doesn’t wick away the heat generated near as well as mild steel does. This means drill slow, OR pulse your hand drill like don’t run it wide open but more than a moment, then stop wait a second, then go at it again for just a moment. This will be faster believe it or not, and save your bit from being ruined.
Great video series Peter. You are a very determined man. It was great to see you and your partner enjoy a boating adventure after all that hard work and expense. You really did a fantastic job on that boat. In my opinion that's the only way if you want to feel safe. We've been travelling on our sailboat for 15 years with our kids. The boat work is a pain but it's a brilliant life!
I got to spend some time on a few historic sailing ships as a kid, and they used a little brass trough filled with water to surround the stovepipes that passed through the galley roof or deck. It was a job to pour a bit of water in them on each watch to keep them cool. I think the trough was called a "Charlie Noble." Love seeing you get it seaworthy, never expected to see such a journey right out of the gate! Cheers, captain!
A little advise for buying hardwood dont get it from any store go straight to a local miller i can get it for like a buck fifty per board ft from a couple guys around me 35:00 in Scioto county ohio
Peter, the stainless rusting is likely from using wire brushed etc on the welds. The wire brush itself is not stainless and leaves artifact metals behind which later rust. Only know from a previous job I had designing and dealing with stainless metals.
$250 for a small bracket that should have been included with the original (already eye-wateringly expensive) product purchase........ I had no idea that Apple made boat stuff! 😁
This feels like one of those home renovation shows where the couple run out of money and time halfway through the build. Let’s hope that Peter can move in by Christmas!
I'm pretty sure he's got an exhaust fan in that top cap thing. It wasn't there when he installed it, but I spotted what looked like a fan on it when he was doing the tour towards the end of the video. I assume that sucks the hot air out the top and allows cool air to be drawn in from below.
Zink gives off elektrons to the other metals so that only itself corrodes. I dont know What it is called in english but i believe that zink is lower in the “spændingsrække” than steel.
Get yourself a prop line cutter. Forget all about the shearing or sawing versions and go with the PropProtector Line Cutter brand. It's a simple circular knife which comes in slide on or a two piece clamp on version which can be installed without removing the prop. I had one on a displacement cruiser. My wife and traveled 28000 miles on that boat and we never had a fouled prop because of crab pot lines or any other line. It's important to keep your single engine boat under power at all times. When your one and only engine stops for any reason, you are automatically in trouble, so cover all your bases. I consider a line cutter mandatory and I can testify that the simple knife style cutter is very effective.
See if you can get ahold of Cleetus and also the BoostedBoiz and help them launch their jet boats. Also good call on spending the money where it was needed and where you can improve on later on. This boat looks a lot better than what you started with.
👟Step into waterproof comfort with Vessi’s Black Friday Sale! Stay dry and save big at urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__vessi.com&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=U0G2iLNGxMJHipuyTjYtVtCETpsRENQlxLwAG1FmnD0&m=u-CPoKYDU1t4Ak-K3_T9hqa8aI1c7xpQg3A7Kcn0m3Xf1NS8ua-WkqjZ6ziYjSEn&s=zy_IkEQg4bIny6C1pS5R9fG761kP_ArQKhlX_nLSY2I&e= - shop now before the best deals slip away!
Hey Petah, The horse is here....
Jesus loves you❤
Your boat won't sink Peter. You guys are doing a great job!! 💪
@@Jesus-Loves-You_T, Amain!! And so does His and our FATHER in Heaven! John 3:16...
when welding on the floor its easier to sit indian style and run the pedal with the side of your foot.
Get some secondhand sail material at one of the marinas you dock at, turn it into a roll up awning and run it from the back of the cabin to the davit and you can cover your whole deck
don't forget to get a radar diamond so other boats can actually see you on radar. it just makes it easier for other boats with radar to see your boat better. I used to work in Sooke BC at Marine search and rescue🥰
There are much better radar reflectors available than a simple diamond or a tubular stack of aluminum corners. Echomax (or similar) blow the simple reflectors out of the water. An order of magnitude better returns and from a much wider selection of angles.
@@wombatillo But a giant crumpled aluminum foil ball is almost free.
@@toolbaggers And it'll corrode and be full of rainwater and seagull poop.
Finally the boat video you've been teasing us with, at long last I am complete
Right!? My favorite videos.
Gotta love the evolution of this channel, didn’t expect it to morph into a couples boat vlog but I’m here for it.
this is just the intro to his new addiction, making his own submersibles
One of the main reasons you see stainless rust is from the hardware. People think stainless hardware is just good to go. What the don’t think about is the fact that all the tooling used to manufacture said hardware is made from steel. And the cutting oil used has steel micro shavings in it. To combat this. We always clean our hardware in a bucket of acetone first. Just dump it in the bucket. Swish it around a bit. Let it sit and then use it. The other reason it rusts is because people burn the welds in too hot and it burns the chromium out of it. Also. Remember. It’s stain”less”. Not stain “free”. (My dad always said that). One more thing to say. On your exhaust. You need a mount that goes from the pipe to the underside of the deck as close to the muffler side of the bellows joint as possible. Just the weight of the pipe will be enough to crack that bellows flex pipe. I’ve seen it main times. I live on vinalhaven island. One of the largest producers of lobster !!
Also if you don't treat the welded areas they will rust, those heatmarks you get, you can use picled nitric acid to clean those heatmarks off.
I don't have much to say, but I felt like I should share how much I liked this video.
I'm not sure exactly what made me like it so much but I've just spent the last 1h30 pretty much glued to my seat watching it.
Thank you for this, this was great.
I'd keep the front hand rails. Just paint them black to reduce light glare.
Also, if possible, add more hand rails. Having lots of places to grab a hold of on the water is always useful.
Flat White. They'll get really hot if you paint them black.
but it look cool
@@faragar1791 I agree. They are there for a reason.
I had a Bayliner 288 last time, and the pulpit was huge, but did save me one winter.
One hand for the ship and one hand for yourself.😊
You can get matte anti glare tape for this exact purpose. It's a common problem not only for boats but also glare from bullbars and driving lights
I'm just gonna go ahead and say this. I'm fricking proud of you bro. I've been enjoying your content for years, since the FT days and seeing you take on such a monster of a project and see it through just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy.
Nobody does complete build videos paced with this much content in this amount of time on RUclips anymore - even though they're the _best_ type of DIY build video. I'm not even a boat guy (can't recall which of your OG FT-era videos I got hooked on) and this was - by far - one of your best if not THE best video you've ever put out. For that matter, I'd say this is one of the best and most satisfying build videos I've seen on YT all year.
Congrats. Sure, some things might need some more fettling, but you've done a hell of a job not to mention a hell of a trip too. Bravo, Peter. Bravo.
We miss ya and Toby hanging around but are so happy to see the boat back on the water where it belongs!
love your epoxy i first found it on this channel as well
The wooden navigation light thing you made is called a scatter board. It stops the light from scattering too far in any direction
also called a Light Board...
I’ve worked on Tugs for 8 years, and have always known them as just “light boards” or “nav light boards”
Also heard them referred to as "Light Boxes", but that may have also encompassed the whole unit when it had candles and mirrors.
I was a lobsterman for years. That exhaust pipe is usually uninsulated. When you are out lobstering in the winter, and your hands start to freeze, you grab onto that exhaust pipe to thaw your hands out.
No one knows why people are arguing in here against me
@@DavidIvan-AC you aren't cool
@@DavidIvan-ACcringe no rizz
@@DavidIvan-AC I know another myth and that is you ever going to get a girlfriend Mr cringe no rizz do you think a guy that literally worked on a big boat would lie the only the exhaust you are thinking about is a car or a small engine exhaust that is only a foot long yes it would be hot and he probably didn't actually grab on to it for very long and probably just held there hands near the exhaust
@@minecraftnoob4273lol😂
20:18 I work with fiberglass mainly on water rides at a theme park, nothing more fun, (in the most sarcastic way you can possibly take that), than grinding out your small de-lamination and just watching it grow and grow and grow. I love working with a 61 year old log flume and 41 year old rapids rafts! :(
1:04:39 That looks like it might be "Lovebug", a 122-foot, $8,000,000 yacht that sunk earlier this year! (there were no casualties, all 5 people were rescued thankfully) In your footage, it's actually being re-floated by Donjon Marine Co. for salvage, so it's technically "payday" for them lol
Yeah, tip for the dry-docked, if it ain't bolted down, take it home or lock it up. 😮
39:20 was NOT expecting that sound effect 😂
perfectly timed to..
I don't need to jump to the scene to know which one you mean 😂
Laughed my ass off
TotalBoat - All these years of watching creators use their products, this is the first time seeing it used on an actual boat! #BotalToatFTW - am I right Xyla
Xyla used it on her cedar canoe and her clear fibreglass Kayak! 😂
Same
@Tomd8002 - ahh, very good points :)
I thought TotalBoat was just for woodworking projects lol.
Their wet edge paint is about as good as it gets. Comparable to interlux 1 part paint.
You need one of those flappy diesel exhaust covers you see them on tractors and big rig sometimes.
I was thinking the same. Or a water catching arrangement that diverts it safely away from the engine. Probably too late for that now it's all pretty, so the flap might have to do.
for the hole under the boat, you should have ground a border edge that was at least 6 to 10 inches where the repair fibergl overlaps the border not just fill a hole in!
The hole under the boat is where the money goes. You have to leave that open.
I have been welding dirt circle track race car chassis together for 28 years, your welds are perfectly fine. They don't have to be the prettiest, they just have to penetrate right and not be contaminated.
So I know you don't want to hear this, but when you're patching a hole that deep in structural fiberglass you need to have 2 inches of overhang on every single lair. So if that boat is 8 layers thick. And I assume you patched 6. Your 6" patch would be first, then a square patch 10x10", 14x14, 18x18.. and so on. THAT'S why people usually write off fiberglass damage, it's much more work than just building a plug.
Will that plug crack around the edge of the hole?
the way he did it most likely eventually @@mikemulligan5731
Yep
Very possibly @@mikemulligan5731
Actually it’s the other way around. Might seem counter intuitive, but you start with the largest piece and the build thickness with smaller and smaller pieces.
ruclips.net/video/6N7YMr6E564/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Hey Peter, I'm a machinist. Use cobalt drills. They will blow thru stainless, Titanium, steel. Etc. It will blow ur mind how easy drilling will be. Or solid carbide. Personally Cobalt is my pick. Knkut is one of my favorite companies for drill bits.
Solid carbide is the jam. Spade solid carbide drills are very inexpensive, they're perfect for jobs like this where you're doing only a few holes in a difficult material. I use them in the boat yard all the time. The ones that aren't good enough for drilling stainless are perfect for drilling through fiberglass.
Using rockwool for the exhaust is a good idea, ships in indonesia uses it but they would wrap the rosckwool on the exhaust like wrapping a burrito
Rockwool should be a great choice, it doesn't really absorb water, although marine environments usually find a weakness in any material.
Building a "keel cooler" for the motor also works so you can just run regular coolant in the motor. No sea water entering the boat.
There is a substantial drag component to that. Keel coolers really only used if operating in very shallow or turbid environments at low speeds. He's got a proper marine motor, treated right that engine will last 30 years. The heat exchanger loop ain't a big deal.
@@otm646 kind of wild to think about how incredibly durable these motors are.
When drilling stainless, you CANNOT let the drill bit idle or it will overheat the corners of the drill and dull it immediately. Use a sharp drill, lubrication to remove heat and make sure you are getting material coming off the drill bit right away (i.e. make sure you have some pressure on the drill). If you do dull the drill bit, STOP!. You can work harden many grades of SS which only makes the job much harder. Buy a new drill bit (or sharpen it if you know how) and try again.
"work hardening" is new to me, and i guess it was something i knew intuitively, but never realized there was a reason it was happening. I have had drill experiences like this. Now i know why. Wow.
Work hardening and heat treating are NOT the same thing. What you are talking about here is heat treating.
Work hardening happens by plastic (permanent) deformation.
Heat can also ruin things that are already heat-treated and will ruin springs.
A millwright here, I work with pumps with packing every day. If your unsure on packing tension it's really easy to set it to tight and burn out. If you're unsure if it's set to tight, check the stuffing box temps after a while of running. You can smoke put that packing in no time
I always backed them out on my tug until I had a steady drip, then inched them back tight until I had a very minor drip while running in gear. I would use the back of my palm on my engine room checks to make sure nothing was getting too hot.
To drill existing holes larger, first thread on the hole saw you want to step up to, then inside that thread on a hole saw according to the existing hole size. The inside smallrr hole saw will maintain a straight drill.
Oh I will use this! Thx.
Awesome tip. I'll have to remember that.
Cool trip.
Those worms are cinder worms. That’s a hatch and spawn you encountered.
Stripers love eating them.
Zinc catalyzes reactions with(in) diesel fuel. So avoid using any materials with zinc which comes in contact with fuel. Copper is also a problem to a lesser extent. The Navy tried zinc plating in fuel tanks during the WWII era, and while it stopped rust, it did nasty things to fuel. Think varnishes like plastic coating everything in the system. Those manifolds have pretty small surface area, so it will probably be fine though. I believe tin plating is acceptable though.
I can tell editing this was hell
Contaminated stainless steel will rust. After welding, you should treat it with a pickling paste. Also never use steel brushes or something on stainless.
That's also why you ideally use stainless screw bits to install stainless screws. Any microscopic bits of carbon steel or tool steel embedded in the stainless surface will act as starting points for rusting even if the rusting will in the beginning be mostly just cosmetic.
Better than most recent MCU movies.
I can't wait for the sequel.
-and inevitable reboot, with William Osman playing the part of Peter. 😭😁
On the bottom of the hull where you found delamination you can just drill a few small holes just half way into the area and inject resin/hardener. Let it harden and it will make it solid. Go visit Jiggin with Jordan. He loves the underwater diving.
That's the hack way to do it. Those layers need to be intimately bonded together. The strength is in the fiberglass, not the epoxy. If the fiberglass is delaminated trying to jam epoxy in there and getting it to bond properly is not the way it's done.
@@otm646 Guy is an ex-Oceangate tech.
A 1 and a half hour Petersripol video? Das ist wundebar, other people being plunged into eternal debt is so much fun
Das boot ist wunderbar.
I saw the Peanut Butter holder on the wall and I AM SOLD!
Dammm 6 hours ago. Time traveler
Never leave port without your emergency peanut butter.
Epic! Well done to your Gfriend she is a champ!!
It was like a movie! But knowing this is the only beginning of the journey, I feel so exciting. I really enjoyed watching from start to end. Thank you for sharing those footages at ocean. Thank you for your time. Looking forward to seeing more.
Epic video. It's great to see the realization of a dream, and I'm happy to see you found someone to share your adventures with. Congrats Peter!
You've got the best attitude towards being a new boater. Caution and forethought are top priorities. Knowing your boat enough to troubleshoot and fix it puts you ahead of most. Things can and will go bad and compound fast, so predicting these things keeps everyone happy and alive longer. A reverse cycle AC will make life better, don't cheap out on some home depot junk there.
glad you mentioned the AC -- another reason it's a great idea is that humidity is your mortal enemy in boat interiors and having something that can remove it for you is super clutch.
First time I see creator use Total Boat for an actual BOAT. Nice one!
Xyla has made a few boats with it
@choahjinhuay oh, yeah, you are right! totally forgot about it - it was a while (and the boats were small'ish)
spread that cotter pin on the prop!
1:02:29
that's what she said
Congratulations and job well-done! You went through some trials and tribulations, but it looks like you're super-happy and having fun. It's been a blast watching your videos through the years. I wish you the best of luck and everything else. Kick ass and take names man!
"When i take this HAMMER and tap it" -taps with screwdriver.
Should we be worried?
No, because that's the hammer part of a screwdriver. But you only unlock that knowledge at meister level.
Absolutely love all the shots of the boats during this. Fantastic work man 🎉❤ thanks for all the great content. Congratulations on such a success.
I was going to say pretty much the exact same thing 👍🏼
Surprising to see someone use TotalBoat on an actual boat for once
I've worked as a commercial fisherman for 7 years, trawling and crabbing. You're doing nothing wrong on the boat.
An hour and a half of boat content is like christmas for me.
well done! I am from maine, downeaster is a way of life. By the time you can really complain of something boat related... look back at how many hours have gone by. Undoubtable is only an adjective that comes back as a reflection of your time.
I look forward to your unique adventures.
Hey, you can use a tack cloth after you sand to get all that wood dust off before staining/sealing. Have no idea about electrical / boat stuff but a bit of carpentry I know!
Great Job. I live in RI and tried to find the boat when I was in the Bristol area.
Don’t listen to these Monday Morning Quarterback’s, you do you.
Tight Lines, brother.
Boat I put hundreds of hours into building spotted at 1:13:25, Badass!
This made me genuinely happy to wait and then sit and watch all the way through. 10/10 more long distance boating vlogs. Loved this!
I love the boat series! Can't wait to see what you do with it next.
One little thing that I found helpful. You’re going to get a ton of water on your windshield, If you’re having trouble seeing or the water is bothering you, put some rain-x water repellent.
I was always taught to tear fiberglass matt rather than cutting it. Apparently the fibers weave together much better when you've got a ragged piece of mat.
On the light boards, you have to cover the epoxy with some sort of UV protective layer. For example, varnish or clearcoat polyurethane (preferably two part). The epoxy will yellow and dull 100 percent for sure. And this is true even if the epoxy claims to be UV resistant.
1:01:50 I would expect nothing less from you 😆, that's sick! You missed a VPN sponsor integration tho 🤣
Carolina Wrens will nest in ANYTHING. Cool little birds though!
I’ve always wondered why boats don’t have automatic airbags to keep them from sinking.
some helicopters do, the airbus h125 is one right off the top of my head.
some ships do as well, they're usually called salvage bags and taken along when people aren't exactly confident in the integrity of the hull while put puttin it along to some other place for work.
the reason all boats dont use em is because they've gotta be tough to survive 50+ tons of boat x unlimited force of the ocean and that makes them bulky, even when deflated and the required gas to fill them up is also another storage issue, the majority of smaller boats just have a foamed up hull that's basically semi impossible to sink without it taking on amazo amounts of water and then have back up of a back up of a backup of the back of of the water pump and 12v/24v marine batteries to run them.
@ That’s a really cool explanation. Thanks! I’m a commercial pilot with helo time and I’ve seen a few airbags on skids around. 🙂
Learned something new today, thanks!
Same reason airplanes don't have parachutes. 💸💸💸
Actually some do. I used to fly one
Hey Peter, great job graduation on your boat. Still need to do some work on it extras but it looks amazing. It’s like a project that never ends. 😂❤👍🇨🇦
39:08 the baby bird caught me off guard LMAO
Peter, congratulations on making it to Florida!
This episode has the best music.
Your Cummins has a great sound.
I LITERALLLY SUBSCRIBED BECAUSE OF THE BOAT PROJECT, FINALLLLY!!!!
Love the boat series! Very nice job. You emphasize that you don't know what you're doing. I hope this is your usual understatement because the sea is a harsh mistress so please take care. There is quite a lot of things to know to not get into trouble and marine technology is not the most important one (meteology, navigation and emergency procedures are). But since you're a pilot I am not too worried. Looking forward to more videos of this awesome adventure.
Holy moly, at first I thought this was 13 minutes video, not 1 hour 30 minutes 😂
my only negative about your tig welding is that you are getting too much heat into the stainless. once it turns grey, it is no longer stainless. you need to move a bit faster on you welds to make sure it still has some color in it. if that means you need to turn up the amps to weld faster, that is fine. welding time is your biggest enemy here, not the amperage.
1:12:48 NO *MAJOR* FIRES?! PETER WHAT DID YOU DO!
Dude, I'm a licensed captain and IMHO you did REALLY well. Waves are WAY bigger in real life than they appear on camera. Knipex are awesome!
The ocean gate meme is crazy😂😂😂😂. Wait and when did he get a girl?
Congrats on getting the boat done! I'm a bit concerned about some of the fiberglass stuff you did though... and that G10 over a hole and fairing it up was not even really fiberglass where it probably needed to be. It'll probably be okay for a little while but next time you haul out you really need to fix a few of these things. That engine also seems like an unnecessarily expensive way of repowering but idk what you were up against with that. I hope this video pays off though, I barely noticed the hour and a half go by but it was not lost on me how quickly you had to bring out another thousand, it seemed like every 30 seconds was another grand.
Also, idk if you've seen his channel but Hyperspace Pirate has some old videos about ROVs, and a lot of cool newer science videos including AC videos, and iirc he's in florida. Maybe you could collab on a heat pump/AC system for the boat for those FL summers operating ROVs or just do some other cool science together.
I've been waiting for this fucking boat.
8:10 stainless 316 is extremely corrosion resistant, it can still rust a little after multiple years in harsh conditions (aka on a boat) but a simple coat of paint is enough to fully future-proof it.
304 however.. It's fine for clean environments, but anything more aggressive like frequent rain, boats and industrial cleaning products can still easily make it rust with time.
I work as an industrial designer at a company that makes special-purpose machines, We use 304 a lot, but for anything pharmaceutical 316 is a must, especially with some of the crazy dangerous chemicals they use for cleaning.
Well you have pretty much done 1/3 of America's Great Loop. Are you going to do the whole loop sometime?
1:12:28 hahaha great shot! Wow, to see this boat in the water finally is nothing short of awe-inspiring!
you could probably get some grant money by charging universities to take their students out to do research
1:10 If you didn't build it with an oil change pump system you can still use a regular topside oil extractor. Takes a little while but it's not a big deal.
congratulations on a very impressive job navigating to Florida
Thank you so much Peter, I was so totally entertained. I know it's a huge investment, but I think it was well spent. A true adventure that you will never forget. I want to do the same project some day. I hope you will be break down what you spent for us dummies who have similar dreams. Just the major things, like 1.used boat, 2. engine, 3. electronics 4. miscellaneous stuff estimate.
Make sure you put an anode on that prop if you don't wanna replace it next year. I recommend SALCA line cutter anodes, they serve a dual purpose of protecting your prop from corrosion, and also line cutters in case you get a crab trap or fishing line caught in it. I've had to dive under boats to cut lines off and it's a PAIN. They're only $30 but save you thousands in maintenance and diving .
Did you watch the video?
As a fabricator and TIG welder, when it comes to stainless steel and drilling, lube/cutting fluid yes BUT also control the heat, stainless doesn’t wick away the heat generated near as well as mild steel does. This means drill slow, OR pulse your hand drill like don’t run it wide open but more than a moment, then stop wait a second, then go at it again for just a moment. This will be faster believe it or not, and save your bit from being ruined.
You could have done a wet exhaust. Easier to do and cool, not all that heat that youre fighting with.
Not to mention much quieter.
@@otm646 much ,much ,quieter.
Great video series Peter. You are a very determined man. It was great to see you and your partner enjoy a boating adventure after all that hard work and expense. You really did a fantastic job on that boat. In my opinion that's the only way if you want to feel safe. We've been travelling on our sailboat for 15 years with our kids. The boat work is a pain but it's a brilliant life!
where is my sofa
my bad I ate it
Ask JD Vance
I heard some dude ate it
Heres your popcorn
😢 crackhead Diane took it. I wouldn't want it back if I were you.
I got to spend some time on a few historic sailing ships as a kid, and they used a little brass trough filled with water to surround the stovepipes that passed through the galley roof or deck. It was a job to pour a bit of water in them on each watch to keep them cool. I think the trough was called a "Charlie Noble." Love seeing you get it seaworthy, never expected to see such a journey right out of the gate! Cheers, captain!
A little advise for buying hardwood dont get it from any store go straight to a local miller i can get it for like a buck fifty per board ft from a couple guys around me 35:00 in Scioto county ohio
Peter, the stainless rusting is likely from using wire brushed etc on the welds. The wire brush itself is not stainless and leaves artifact metals behind which later rust. Only know from a previous job I had designing and dealing with stainless metals.
Changin the name of the boat and spotting a black cat on the same day is rlly bad luck
Nah... It's fine... He didn't walk under a ladder to break a mirror over the cat's head.
$250 for a small bracket that should have been included with the original (already eye-wateringly expensive) product purchase........ I had no idea that Apple made boat stuff! 😁
This feels like one of those home renovation shows where the couple run out of money and time halfway through the build. Let’s hope that Peter can move in by Christmas!
So thankful for a full length video! Here at the half way mark was getting worried it was about over! 43:48
Airgap for cooling... Rockwool to retain the heat...m
I'm pretty sure he's got an exhaust fan in that top cap thing. It wasn't there when he installed it, but I spotted what looked like a fan on it when he was doing the tour towards the end of the video. I assume that sucks the hot air out the top and allows cool air to be drawn in from below.
Zink gives off elektrons to the other metals so that only itself corrodes. I dont know What it is called in english but i believe that zink is lower in the “spændingsrække” than steel.
Crazy for taking the gunnels/ railing off the boat for looks is wild . Would def reinstall those .
Gunwales. But yes, I agree. If you ever have a situation where you need to be outside the cabin in rough weather, you need something to hold on to.
Especially for something as trivial as glare which you can buy anti glare tape for and stick on the cabin-side edge of the railing
it's so weird seeing totalboat products actually being used on a boat for once!
When hole sawing an existing hole, you can use a saw of the same size of the original hole to center the new larger saw.
Get yourself a prop line cutter. Forget all about the shearing or sawing versions and go with the PropProtector Line Cutter brand. It's a simple circular knife which comes in slide on or a two piece clamp on version which can be installed without removing the prop. I had one on a displacement cruiser. My wife and traveled 28000 miles on that boat and we never had a fouled prop because of crab pot lines or any other line. It's important to keep your single engine boat under power at all times. When your one and only engine stops for any reason, you are automatically in trouble, so cover all your bases. I consider a line cutter mandatory and I can testify that the simple knife style cutter is very effective.
Turn it into a submarine!
Might end up there unintended.
you continue to inspire a generation of engineers and makers!
See if you can get ahold of Cleetus and also the BoostedBoiz and help them launch their jet boats. Also good call on spending the money where it was needed and where you can improve on later on.
This boat looks a lot better than what you started with.