Thanks, Steve - You are an absolute lifesaver. I was struggling deciphering the dodgy installation instructions so this masterclass has saved me a lot of strife.
Steve you done a wonderful job explaining the set up and save me tons of issues. I had to go back and reset cog which now much better. Keep up the good work!
It is such an amazing video tutorial! Thank you very much! I am also tired of Shimano and SRAM getting as much money as possible with hundreds of models instead of having good ones for good prices.
Thanks for this guide, it's really helpful and professional. I've just changed out my 105 standard setup tonight, love the fact that my rim brake bike has had a future proofing setup . There's a lot of bargain rim brake bikes that'll excellent with the wheeltop system.
Fantastic video, thank you. I mostly figured it out myself the first time but it took a long time. this saved me so much time when I moved it all to a different bike.
Hello Steve, Thank you for this excellent tutorial. For my part, everything is in order except the front derailleur. The chain touches the outside of the fork when I am on the small sprocket/large chainring and the inside of the fork when I am on the large sprocket/small chainring, the stops are set to their maximum, I also use the software to move the derailleur outwards on the big chainring but then the chain touches even more on the small chainring. In summary I have the impression that the derailleur does not have enough amplitude to move sufficiently on all the speeds of the box without touching the maximums. For your information, I have been a cycle mechanic for 15 years in my store. I also set it to 12V. THANKS
@@stevenleffanue Sorry its a translation error, its not fork but its the derailleur, the chain touch outside in the big chainring/little rear speed and inside in the little chainring/big rear speed, for exemple i can take off the both limited screw on the front derailleur and its not enough (normaly if i take off the limited screw on the big chainring the chain fall outside when i press the button speed)...
Great video Steve, thank you. In any future vids on the Wheeltop, please point out how dangerous the magnetic charging cables are. Since the the live contacts are male pins it is very important to attach them to the derailleur BEFORE plugging in the USB. I didn’t, and nearly started a fire in my lap. My cable was plugged in but magnetically stuck to the coiled brake cable, five minutes out of the box. Destroyed the cable and Wheeltop wont sell me a new one.
The B set screw should be set 8-10mm from the largest rear cog. From the wheeltop pdf. This is very important when setting up a 13 speed cassette. The more gears the mort important the B screw is. It was a challenge to set up a rotor 13s 10/36 with mine but it works.
Thank you again for the video. I am a bit afraid of this set because many comments here reported a bit of difficulty installing and configuring it. Other RUclipsrs said the same. Is it as easy as you show us?
No matter what I do the FD rubs the chain when in lowest gear. Micro adjust just throws the issue further down the gears, adjust it so it doesn’t rub, then rubs in higher gears. Also struggles to get into big ring when in middle of cassette, so have to shift down. Getting more chain drops since latest update as well. Trace velo also has this issue with front mech rubbing.
I'm having exactly the same issue. Did you manage to resolve it somehow? No matter how I adjust the FD, all I do is shifting the rubbing from one end of the gear spectrum to the other. In a way, it feels as if the FD is lacking "range" and doesn't move far enough when changing from one chainring to the other.
hi steve, you have been great. i am a beginner is this line of install and your videos are a blessing to me coz i was able to learn a lot. i am having issue with front derailleur though...everything shifts when im on the bigger cog on the fd but when i shift it to the lower cog and try to bring it back to bigger cog....chain gets stucked on the fd. what should i do? hope u can help me.
Hi Steve, do you use a 1.5mm hex key to adjust the out limit screw for the FD? I've tried that in mine, because I have some chain rub when changing to the small chainring. Unfortunately, because the screw is so small, I think I've stripped the head. I tried to carefully move it in either direction, but the screw wouldn't move. And after I applied a bit more of force, then the head gave up and now the hex key won't bite.
Can you save profiles? Let's say I can save a profile for my direct drive trainer and the other one for my wheelset when routing outside. Sometimes direct drive trainers and rear wheels have a little indexing differences.
Steve by far the best video thus far. My question I'm currently riding a vintage steel with Shimano 600 with down tube shifting 52/39 7 spd 13-28. Can you adapt the rim brake option to operate with my Shimano 600 calipers and do the front and rear mech have a manual setting? The 1 by option with a wide range cassette could be a fun project😊
@@stevenleffanue The 1x was just a senior moment. I plan to restore the bike and thought it would be a nice modern touch to add some much needed wider range casette and wireless shifting. Thanks for your time.
Sounds like you need to power them off in the app. Then plug them in on the chargers. Both derailers. Now unplug them and reconnect them to the app. Do not open de-bug. Try again.
30:05 wheeltop customer service actually advised that oversized pulleys are not compatible with the system. Did you try whether it works? Otherwise keep up the great work 👍
Hi, Wonder if you can help me out. After calibrating all my gears (11) when I go to test to change gears it won't go past the third gear. It seems to stop there. Would it possible to send me the correct steps by step how to calibrate so I can use all 11 gears. Thanks
I wonder for how long they will have auto trim until a future firmware update remove it. That's what happened with the L-TWOO groupset because of Shimano Patent.
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Please help. Just recieved rim brake set and cant get the levers to pair with the derailleurs . Should everything be paired before it is sent ? Cant get the indicators to light up. Thanks.
Put derailleurs next to each other. Put them both on charge. Pull off charge leads both at same time. Slight shake of the derailleurs and try operating them with the shifter paddles. Should all be connected now.
@@stevenleffanueI can't found anywhere, and wheeltop support talked about a jockey wheels, but which Shimano standard cage are compatible, for 6800 (11speed version), for 7000 or for 8000?
Wheeltop shifters use mineral oil and your SRAM brakes use dot5.1 ....the wrong brake fluid can damage the seals of either shifter or caliper. So I wouldn't advise it. Sorry.
the problem is to set up the gears as the local bike shops some are really caution with labour , they might not have the patience to make it work perfectly and you end up bring the bike back again (if you wonder how/why i said so because i had to take my bike to another shop to do a whole rebuild on the bike, some local bike shop would try to cut corners especially bikes/parts that's without warranty aka after market chinese parts like this )
I just got my dts tx. Even though the bottoms feel easy to click/press I have to really press down to get them shift; my finger tips hurt! Is your experience the same?
@@stevenleffanue I have tried from every part of the paddle; top to bottom same force it takes to really got it engaged. What I can feel is that there is an initial click, then I have to keep pushing to get a louder one that really engages
@@stevenleffanue I still don’t put it on my bike. I guess since it has not the proper support, it seems harder. What you are saying makes a lot of sense. Keep you posted!
Excellent guide dude top work.. looks like a good system.. look forward to your ride reviews 😊 I’m a campy mechanical guy but this has me interested.. Pete 🚴🏻👍
Hi Oz Cycles, I have tried calibrating this eds and its not easy, i have contacted wheeltop for troubleshoot manuel and they will be in touch so far easy to install and the app is easy aswell but the fine tunning does nothing , really pissed with this electronic group set so far i have a 10sp gravel with shimano gears , eventually i will figure it out but frustrating at the same time, my fine tune only allows me one digit at a time not like yours in larger increment's. i will call bike shop if they use wheeltop app ajustment. their are things that dont add up from your video.
You can type in the increment number too. Once you enter a new number, shift up or down at least 1 sprocket then back to the one you altered and you should find it has moved to the new number.
Do the cog spacing values change depending on which chain ring you're in, to compensate for the different chain lines of the big and small chain rings? I suppose I'm asking if the rear derailleur recognises which chain ring you are in, and adapts according to the chain line. Or to put it another way, does the RD 'auto trim' as well? The setup seems pretty straight forward, anyone who knows how to set up cable operated drive trains, and use a mobile device, should be ok with this system. I reckon trying to explain the process is probably harder than doing it. Ps Looking forward to your riding impressions, I've held off on buying a rim brake set till now but depending on your thoughts I think I could be swayed.
When on the big ring and smallest sprocket, if you change to small ring, the rear derailleur moves up 2 sprockets to prevent chain rubbing on inner face of largest ring.
@@stevenleffanue Yes, you made that pretty clear in the video but that's not what I'm asking. Lets say you're in the middle of the cassette (the 17 tooth sprocket for arguments sake) and you change from the big ring into the small ring on the front. Does the rear derailleur recognise the changed chain line and trim its position accordingly to accommodate the new chain line of the small ring? I'm asking if the system recognises that the optimal RD alignment for, say the 17 tooth sprocket, is different for the big ring as it is for small rings?
@@space.youtube Each of the two chainrings has THREE front derailleur positions. For the big chainring there's the most outboard position (called 2Gear in the APP - default value zero) which is used when moving the chain from the small chainring to the big chainring. You don't ride in this position because the system trims back inboard either a little (if you're in the 6 smallest cogs - called 1Gear value 80) or a lot (if you're in the 6 biggest cogs - called 3Gear value 160).
Nice video! Had this eds wheeltop stuff on my bike, tested it and successfully sold it) do not recommend this, mechanical 105 is so much better and reliable
If you would like the rear to hit all 11 gears, try to set your front chain ring size larger than 50x34., like 52x34, 53x39 or larger. This hack works on SRAM and Shimano. Let us know if it does work. It does also help with the tuning.
DONT BUY this groupset. And dont listen to these sweet talkers. We have these groupsets here in Russia for a few years now due to sanctions. And they just dont work properly. No matter what you do. And sometimes dont work at all. There's no seals to prevent water and dust getting in. You have to disassemble and seal everything by yourself. You cant set it up properrly. No matter what you do. If you upshift shifter will be in one position. And if you downshift it will be in a different one. And you cant control it. i. e. from 8 to 9 speed shifter will be in one position. And if you shift from 10 to 9 it will be in the different position. I know it makes no sense. No idea why they did that. But it is what it is. And you cant fix that at all. It doesnt work with many popular cranks. Even with Shimano 105 shifter will be rubbing gainst the cranks. It loses connection pretty easy. Like when you're going near the powerline. Other groupsets dont do that. The saving grace is it is fitted to a cheaper bikes. Like sub $1000 for whole bike. But $700+ for just groupset is maddness. Just buy di2. It works perfectly fine. Even if you need to mess with the cables a bit.
You forgot to mention that "carbon" leavers and cage is not in fact a real carbon. It is made of plastic with "carbon" texture. And once you break it, there's no spare parts avaliable. Avoid like the plague. Ps. 105 mechanical is all you really need.
The availability of parts was limited, but now getting better with their service contacts. Whatever brand you have, an accident will break parts and need replacement.
@@stevenleffanue I dont think direct links are avaliable, but if you search "love.bike" youtube you'll find a channel with an in depth review of the groupset after 4000km. From a guy who has bought it with his own money. The shifting problems are shown at 23:10
If only there is option to sync groupset with power meter that it could set at certain watt that it initiate auto shift... So it have zone 2 auto shift or hard ride auto shift
@@stevenleffanue my eyes are not what they used to be but with the brand new group set they stood out to me! Thank you for all your videos over the years, they are a wealth of information!
By far the best installation video I've seen for this groupset!
Thanks, Steve - You are an absolute lifesaver. I was struggling deciphering the dodgy installation instructions so this masterclass has saved me a lot of strife.
Steve: what a master you are! Most clear and precise explanations I’ve ever seen
Congrats!
Thanks Steve, now mine is perfectly fine tuned👌🏻
Bought one because of your review. Can't wait for it to arrive in a week or two to fit it on my 2013 Giant TCR Advanced SL Rabobank with rim breaks
Where did you buy it?
@@wizardzx2 From there website. Go look into the description of the review this channel did on it. You'll even get a promo code.
Steve you done a wonderful job explaining the set up and save me tons of issues. I had to go back and reset cog which now much better. Keep up the good work!
It is such an amazing video tutorial! Thank you very much! I am also tired of Shimano and SRAM getting as much money as possible with hundreds of models instead of having good ones for good prices.
Thanks for this guide, it's really helpful and professional.
I've just changed out my 105 standard setup tonight, love the fact that my rim brake bike has had a future proofing setup .
There's a lot of bargain rim brake bikes that'll excellent with the wheeltop system.
Fantastic video, thank you. I mostly figured it out myself the first time but it took a long time. this saved me so much time when I moved it all to a different bike.
I have this group set on a 9100 Dura Ace 11 speed drive train. I went from mechanical to the Wheeltop EDS, and have no issues, “works perfectly”.
how many miles have you got in this groupset?
@@everythingRICHARDIFY Around 650 miles.
Hello Steve,
Thank you for this excellent tutorial. For my part, everything is in order except the front derailleur. The chain touches the outside of the fork when I am on the small sprocket/large chainring and the inside of the fork when I am on the large sprocket/small chainring, the stops are set to their maximum, I also use the software to move the derailleur outwards on the big chainring but then the chain touches even more on the small chainring. In summary I have the impression that the derailleur does not have enough amplitude to move sufficiently on all the speeds of the box without touching the maximums.
For your information, I have been a cycle mechanic for 15 years in my store. I also set it to 12V.
THANKS
Your chain should be no where near your fork....the fork holds the front wheel. ??
@@stevenleffanue Sorry its a translation error, its not fork but its the derailleur, the chain touch outside in the big chainring/little rear speed and inside in the little chainring/big rear speed, for exemple i can take off the both limited screw on the front derailleur and its not enough (normaly if i take off the limited screw on the big chainring the chain fall outside when i press the button speed)...
Great video Steve, thank you. In any future vids on the Wheeltop, please point out how dangerous the magnetic charging cables are.
Since the the live contacts are male pins it is very important to attach them to the derailleur BEFORE plugging in the USB. I didn’t, and nearly started a fire in my lap. My cable was plugged in but magnetically stuck to the coiled brake cable, five minutes out of the box. Destroyed the cable and Wheeltop wont sell me a new one.
Yes, good point. There are other electronic devices which use this type of magnetic plug too. Thanx , will mention in the riding review video 👍
Great video. Can't wait until I get more info about the this group; it's a really exiting development in cycling!
I have just recieved my groupset and its going on my gravel bike and i will let you know how it goes for consumer opinions and Great video .
How is your setup going?
Great video Steve. Will be getting this groupset in the future because of its many options. Brian
The B set screw should be set 8-10mm from the largest rear cog. From the wheeltop pdf. This is very important when setting up a 13 speed cassette. The more gears the mort important the B screw is. It was a challenge to set up a rotor 13s 10/36 with mine but it works.
Thank you again for the video. I am a bit afraid of this set because many comments here reported a bit of difficulty installing and configuring it. Other RUclipsrs said the same. Is it as easy as you show us?
The difficulty is interpreting the Chinese translation to English. Once you navigate you way around it for a while it's easy.
No matter what I do the FD rubs the chain when in lowest gear. Micro adjust just throws the issue further down the gears, adjust it so it doesn’t rub, then rubs in higher gears.
Also struggles to get into big ring when in middle of cassette, so have to shift down. Getting more chain drops since latest update as well.
Trace velo also has this issue with front mech rubbing.
I'm having exactly the same issue. Did you manage to resolve it somehow?
No matter how I adjust the FD, all I do is shifting the rubbing from one end of the gear spectrum to the other.
In a way, it feels as if the FD is lacking "range" and doesn't move far enough when changing from one chainring to the other.
Great video and so thorough
Another great video Steve, I’m looking to purchase one for the China frame I sent you a picture off.
hi steve, you have been great. i am a beginner is this line of install and your videos are a blessing to me coz i was able to learn a lot. i am having issue with front derailleur though...everything shifts when im on the bigger cog on the fd but when i shift it to the lower cog and try to bring it back to bigger cog....chain gets stucked on the fd. what should i do? hope u can help me.
Sounds like the outer limit screw may need to be brought out a smidge
Hi Steve, do you use a 1.5mm hex key to adjust the out limit screw for the FD? I've tried that in mine, because I have some chain rub when changing to the small chainring.
Unfortunately, because the screw is so small, I think I've stripped the head. I tried to carefully move it in either direction, but the screw wouldn't move. And after I applied a bit more of force, then the head gave up and now the hex key won't bite.
Yes , 1.5mm. Try an imperial size hex or torx if stripped the head
@@stevenleffanue tried the imperial equivalent already, but no luck. I haven't tried with a torx, though... that's a good tip. Thanks a lot!
Best explanation ever. Thank you. Greetings from Austria🫡☝🏼🚲
Can you save profiles? Let's say I can save a profile for my direct drive trainer and the other one for my wheelset when routing outside. Sometimes direct drive trainers and rear wheels have a little indexing differences.
Not at the moment. You could take a snapshot of the list of numbers as a backup.
Interesting that your FD has two limit screws. Mine only has one fine tuning screw. Im wondering if this is new.
Must be.
Steve by far the best video thus far. My question I'm currently riding a vintage steel with Shimano 600 with down tube shifting 52/39 7 spd 13-28. Can you adapt the rim brake option to operate with my Shimano 600 calipers and do the front and rear mech have a manual setting? The 1 by option with a wide range cassette could be a fun project😊
Yes the rim brake version will work with your bike. To use it as a 1x you unpair the front derailleur in the App. Why not keep it as 2x ?
@@stevenleffanue The 1x was just a senior moment. I plan to restore the bike and thought it would be a nice modern touch to add some much needed wider range casette and wireless shifting. Thanks for your time.
So nice vid', thanks mate. Manu from France
Excellent!
My thumb controller keeps micro adjusting instead of change gears. Do you know how to fix? Very annoying
Contact Wheeltop on that one.
Sounds like you need to power them off in the app. Then plug them in on the chargers. Both derailers. Now unplug them and reconnect them to the app. Do not open de-bug. Try again.
30:05 wheeltop customer service actually advised that oversized pulleys are not compatible with the system. Did you try whether it works? Otherwise keep up the great work 👍
Haven't tried oversized but ceramic bearing jockeys would.
Great video.
Hi, Wonder if you can help me out. After calibrating all my gears (11) when I go to test to change gears it won't go past the third gear. It seems to stop there. Would it possible to send me the correct steps by step how to calibrate so I can use all 11 gears. Thanks
I wonder for how long they will have auto trim until a future firmware update remove it. That's what happened with the L-TWOO groupset because of Shimano Patent.
What kind of Oil do you use for the bleeding? The same as Shimano?
Yes,mineral oil.
Great video
Got a link for the bar tape? I bought a few off there but they were crap.
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Please help. Just recieved rim brake set and cant get the levers to pair with the derailleurs . Should everything be paired before it is sent ? Cant get the indicators to light up. Thanks.
Put derailleurs next to each other. Put them both on charge. Pull off charge leads both at same time. Slight shake of the derailleurs and try operating them with the shifter paddles. Should all be connected now.
@@stevenleffanue Awesome Steve. will give it a crack.. Thanks for your quick reply and your brilliant videos.
Grear video, I have the same groupset. Very nice.
First class video many thanks
Hi, please can you explain how to calibrate using the shifters in detail. I am only able to work it out with the app
I'm pretty sure it's in the installation pdf
@@stevenleffanue it is but makes not sense to me at all.
@nodyah66 ok. I've not tried it, but apparently it can be done.
Does derailleur cage has proprietary mounting system or it's shimano/sram one?
Not proprietary. Same as for Shimano
@@stevenleffanueI can't found anywhere, and wheeltop support talked about a jockey wheels, but which Shimano standard cage are compatible, for 6800 (11speed version), for 7000 or for 8000?
All those will fit.
@@stevenleffanue This is amazing, thanks!
Hi, i have a naive question... I have sram red hydro rim brakes - would the disk version work with these?
Wheeltop shifters use mineral oil and your SRAM brakes use dot5.1 ....the wrong brake fluid can damage the seals of either shifter or caliper. So I wouldn't advise it. Sorry.
excellent presentation
the problem is to set up the gears as the local bike shops some are really caution with labour , they might not have the patience to make it work perfectly and you end up bring the bike back again (if you wonder how/why i said so because i had to take my bike to another shop to do a whole rebuild on the bike, some local bike shop would try to cut corners especially bikes/parts that's without warranty aka after market chinese parts like this )
I just got my dts tx. Even though the bottoms feel easy to click/press I have to really press down to get them shift; my finger tips hurt! Is your experience the same?
Are you pressing only the top section of the paddle?
@@stevenleffanue I have tried from every part of the paddle; top to bottom same force it takes to really got it engaged. What I can feel is that there is an initial click, then I have to keep pushing to get a louder one that really engages
Yes , more so with the righthand forward paddle? It shouldn't be hard to press but not easily enough to cause accidental shifting.
@@stevenleffanue I still don’t put it on my bike. I guess since it has not the proper support, it seems harder. What you are saying makes a lot of sense. Keep you posted!
Comprehensive 👍
Excellent guide dude top work.. looks like a good system.. look forward to your ride reviews 😊 I’m a campy mechanical guy but this has me interested.. Pete 🚴🏻👍
Understand. I rode Campagnolo most of my life when it was the bees 🐝 knees...beautiful components that were extremely well machined.
Yeah I ride chorus 11 speed on 3 bikes and can’t see me changing works and looks beautiful but this is I interesting 😊
@n22pdf If money is no issue, then Dura Ace. Otherwise, I'd put this Wheeltop group level with Ultegra.
Wow that is certainly high praise 😊 look forward to watching your ride review bro
Is it possible to replace the battery?
Yes. Wheeltop will replace the battery for no charge.
Hi Oz Cycles, I have tried calibrating this eds and its not easy, i have contacted wheeltop for troubleshoot manuel and they will be in touch so far easy to install and the app is easy aswell but the fine tunning does nothing , really pissed with this electronic group set so far i have a 10sp gravel with shimano gears , eventually i will figure it out but frustrating at the same time, my fine tune only allows me one digit at a time not like yours in larger increment's. i will call bike shop if they use wheeltop app ajustment. their are things that dont add up from your video.
You can type in the increment number too. Once you enter a new number, shift up or down at least 1 sprocket then back to the one you altered and you should find it has moved to the new number.
Do the cog spacing values change depending on which chain ring you're in, to compensate for the different chain lines of the big and small chain rings?
I suppose I'm asking if the rear derailleur recognises which chain ring you are in, and adapts according to the chain line.
Or to put it another way, does the RD 'auto trim' as well?
The setup seems pretty straight forward, anyone who knows how to set up cable operated drive trains, and use a mobile device, should be ok with this system.
I reckon trying to explain the process is probably harder than doing it.
Ps Looking forward to your riding impressions, I've held off on buying a rim brake set till now but depending on your thoughts I think I could be swayed.
When on the big ring and smallest sprocket, if you change to small ring, the rear derailleur moves up 2 sprockets to prevent chain rubbing on inner face of largest ring.
@@stevenleffanue Yes, you made that pretty clear in the video but that's not what I'm asking.
Lets say you're in the middle of the cassette (the 17 tooth sprocket for arguments sake) and you change from the big ring into the small ring on the front. Does the rear derailleur recognise the changed chain line and trim its position accordingly to accommodate the new chain line of the small ring?
I'm asking if the system recognises that the optimal RD alignment for, say the 17 tooth sprocket, is different for the big ring as it is for small rings?
@@space.youtube Each of the two chainrings has THREE front derailleur positions. For the big chainring there's the most outboard position (called 2Gear in the APP - default value zero) which is used when moving the chain from the small chainring to the big chainring. You don't ride in this position because the system trims back inboard either a little (if you're in the 6 smallest cogs - called 1Gear value 80) or a lot (if you're in the 6 biggest cogs - called 3Gear value 160).
@@blueninjasix Another great answer to a question I didn't ask. lol
Yes
Any follow-up review?
Yes, getting a few miles on it first
Hope this goes better than LTwoo and the NERO Chinese bike build.
So far so good , 6th ride.
Just to add that the jockey wheel spec is the 12T version for both.
Yes , 12t for both
Nice video! Had this eds wheeltop stuff on my bike, tested it and successfully sold it) do not recommend this, mechanical 105 is so much better and reliable
If you would like the rear to hit all 11 gears, try to set your front chain ring size larger than 50x34., like 52x34, 53x39 or larger. This hack works on SRAM and Shimano. Let us know if it does work. It does also help with the tuning.
I'm waiting for they're 1X setup.
August
Thank Sir
DONT BUY this groupset. And dont listen to these sweet talkers. We have these groupsets here in Russia for a few years now due to sanctions. And they just dont work properly. No matter what you do. And sometimes dont work at all.
There's no seals to prevent water and dust getting in. You have to disassemble and seal everything by yourself.
You cant set it up properrly. No matter what you do. If you upshift shifter will be in one position. And if you downshift it will be in a different one. And you cant control it. i. e. from 8 to 9 speed shifter will be in one position. And if you shift from 10 to 9 it will be in the different position. I know it makes no sense. No idea why they did that. But it is what it is. And you cant fix that at all.
It doesnt work with many popular cranks. Even with Shimano 105 shifter will be rubbing gainst the cranks.
It loses connection pretty easy. Like when you're going near the powerline. Other groupsets dont do that.
The saving grace is it is fitted to a cheaper bikes. Like sub $1000 for whole bike. But $700+ for just groupset is maddness. Just buy di2. It works perfectly fine. Even if you need to mess with the cables a bit.
You forgot to mention that "carbon" leavers and cage is not in fact a real carbon. It is made of plastic with "carbon" texture. And once you break it, there's no spare parts avaliable.
Avoid like the plague.
Ps. 105 mechanical is all you really need.
Can you provide evidence for your claims?
The availability of parts was limited, but now getting better with their service contacts. Whatever brand you have, an accident will break parts and need replacement.
@@stevenleffanue I dont think direct links are avaliable, but if you search "love.bike" youtube you'll find a channel with an in depth review of the groupset after 4000km. From a guy who has bought it with his own money.
The shifting problems are shown at 23:10
@@stevenleffanuelovebike channel has in depth review. But it is in Russian.
If only there is option to sync groupset with power meter that it could set at certain watt that it initiate auto shift... So it have zone 2 auto shift or hard ride auto shift
Interesting suggestion. I wonder if any other brands have done this??
Is it just me or do those teeth on the big ring look more than a tad worn??
Sharp eyes. Yeh, they've done a lot of miles. I will be up for a new 52t soon.
@@stevenleffanue my eyes are not what they used to be but with the brand new group set they stood out to me!
Thank you for all your videos over the years, they are a wealth of information!
Groupset was originally Ultegra mechanical transferred over from my old Yoeleo R6 bike.
😂
Custom barb and olive is the most stupid thing they could have done.
It's same as SRAM