Did you use the correct process to set and adjust the wheeltop system? I bet not and this created a headache. Same happened to me. Step one set the limit screws. Step two select new cassette, 11 in my case. Step three initial setup gear number one only then leave initial calibration. Step four fine tune the cassette and derailer. If you do any of this out is sequence you will have no idea what’s wrong and chase your tail. Now repeat for the front using the limit screws for very fine tuning. The secret to getting the front derailer to stop rubbing is to make sure there’s a 3 to 4 mm gap between the bottom of the front derailer and the top of the large chain ring. I can see yours is to low and needs more gap. If you get it any smaller, it will rub. Mine shifts perfectly with zero rubbing. Now ask me how I figured this all out 😂 yep the hard way. Because as you said the app is not good. Hope this helps. PS I have a rotor 13s cassette on the way to make mine a 2x13.
@@darrengarvie8832 I will need more time with it. I found the setup to be a real learning experience and can see how others will have issues. The instructions are bad and the translations are as well. The app makes sense now but was not easy to figure out at all. Overall I think with some updates it will be good. The other thing to remember this will work on almost any frame from 135mm qr to 142 through…. With a system so universal the setup will be very equipment specific.
Funnily enough, electronic groupsets are supposed to be easy to install and setup... following this installation procedure and not being able to set up the groupset correctly if you don't follow it is anything but user friendly or intuitive.
Thanks for your honest review! Here in Russia we have a lot of Chinese brands because of the sanctions. And wheeltop is among them. It has number of issues. Carbon fiber cage and shifters aren't carbon fiber. Just a plastic with carbon texture. It doesnt work with 105 cranks. Water proofing is non existent. You have to waterproof it yourself. Shifting is non perfect etc. But the saving grace is it is cheap. It's installed on a sub $1000 bikes. When I've bought my full carbon aero bike with carbon wheels and wheeltop for $960 it was OK. I expected a lot of cut corners. But when I saw wheeltop selling their groupset as a standalone product with $700+ price tag it was mind boggling. But not a mind boggling as the stellar reviews all along the internet. When I'm absolutely sure this product is half baked and can not be recommended to anyone at this point. You're the only one who made an honest review. With all the pros but also not sugar coating the cons.
Luke you are a true professional man!! The content and expertise opinion you share on the channel is top notch man!! Stand up guy, I enjoy or chats. Great video 🎉🎉
As a programmer, gamer and overall tech/computer nerd, I can't imagine anything worse than having electronic shifters which require a phone app to control, batteries to charge/replace and a company to pray for not going out of business and shutting down their software divisions. Not just this groupset you've shown here, even the Shinamo/SRAM ones. To me the beauty of a bike is it's simplicity. I want a bike that I can keep and ride forever. No software updates, no dead batteries, just me and an allen key.
To each their own, obviously, but my experience with Shimano's Di2 Ultegra has been nothing but smooth sailing. Mine came setup from Dare and there has been no need to do anything with the app, it just works. The batteries lasts a long time and my head unit will tell me how much charge is left so there is no chance to run out of juice. And the shifting is just so much nicer than on my old mechanical groupset (which isn't zero maintenance, which was my main motivation to get the Di2).
@@8020Napping Shimano and SRAM are bloody expensive: $ 1000 for an electro motor and some BlueTooth tech.... I guess they (still) have patents to protect this (sub)market 😐
Re: front mech. Apologies if you've tried this already, but I thought I'd share what worked well for me: that is to set it up using the FD trim position as the starting / reference point. 1. Make sure the FD limit screws are fully backed out. 2. Have the RD on the largest of the rear sprockets that is the last one before the FD auto trim kicks in, i.e. middle of the block. 3. Then use the app to adjust the FD position so that it is just far enough outboard - but no further - that it will lift the chain onto the large chainring with a single short press of the button. (Note: If you keep the left shift button depressed it will do a full range upshift, rather than one limited by the trim position. I found that if the FD was too far inboard it wouldn't pick up the chain onto the big chainring without doing a long press. And if it was too far outboard I'd get the chain rubbing when on the larger sprockets.) 4. Finally, with the chain on the inner-big and then outer-small combinations respectively set the relevant FD limit screws. Hope that's clear and of some use. Doing it this way means you are working around the element of which you have no control. Edit: spelling
The tool you need for the bonus clip bit is called a "pin wrench". You probably have one from a classic cheapo ebay bike toolkit. They're usually used on older bottom brackets, but they should work here as long as the pins on the one you have are small enough to fit. Be easier than keeping the vice set permanently. You'll need one for a bike because the angle grinder removing kind have thicker pins. 🥖
I was (according to wheel top) the first user in Europe, so I’ve got a couple months of usage on it. I agree that the rubber on the hoods is super hard to pull back for bleeding… Also agree the app is not the best, but after you get used to it it’s fine. Initial calibration on the rear derraileur was completely out of whack for me. Basically just used it to set the “0” position for the smallest cog, and had to adjust all the gears from there. But it’s not that hard, and after adjusted they work really well. Regarding the front one, I emailed them to unlock the options and now I can configure all the trim positions, so it is working properly. You again set the 0 position on the center of the big chainring and then adjust all the 4 “files” with big chainring small cogs, big big, small small, small bit. The other two numbers are for the forced shift (where you press and hold the lever so it overshifts a bit for a couple of seconds). I set those the same as I dont want it to force anything. I only have one screw on my front derraileur 😅 but just set it so that it could move out enough to reach the big chainring and done. No faffing with spacers or anything just the numbers. Braking has also been fine but I set mine with magura calipers just to be different and it stops amazingly well !!! So far so good and battery life has been pretty decent. My main gripe with this is that the gears are reported mirrored on the bike computer… you get used to it but it’s kind of stupid
Had same issue with EDS levers rattling. You can unscrew the paddles from the back of the lever, dismantle the buttons and tighten a small screw to make the buttons less rattley !
Eyup, Luke. Been looking forward to your thoughts on this one. Crikey, that front derailleur chain rub is really bad. Must admit, mine does it a bit on the extremities, but nowhere near as bad. And thanks for the mention 👍 Oh, and nearly forgot, here you go mate 🥖
If you ask support, they will grant you access to the front derailleur fine tune adjustments in the app - and very useful they are too Front Derailleur fine tune has 6 settings:- 2 gear=0 Most OUTBOARD big chainring position (to aid transition) 1 gear=80 Trim position for big chainring and 6 smaller cogs. 3 gear=160 Trim for big CR and 6 bigger cogs 6 gear=660 Trim for small CR and 6 smaller cogs 4 gear=900 Trim for small CR and 6 bigger cogs 5 gear=1080 Most INBOARD small chainring position (to aid transition) Reference to 6 smaller and 6 bigger cogs assumes a 12 speed cassette. For 11 speed cassettes, TRIM changes at 5 smallest to 6 biggest cogs.
@@OleBih put the RD in pairing mode (like you're turning it on) so the blue light is flashing. Next with the RD blue light flashing, press both shifters buttons several times which will tell the RD to exit pairing mode.
Testing with a wonky cassette and crankset was a sure way of giving you trouble, I think. I was testing a couple of cheap cassettes I got from AliExpress on my 12-speed Ultegra Di2 bike, and had I not known how the groupset works with its genuine cassette, I would have been quite disappointed in the whole thing, because the cassettes look totally fine but...don't work well even after endless adjustments and test rides. It's really (not) surprising how much the cassette/crankset and chainrings affect the performance of the whole groupset.
Thanks, as always, for doing this stuff; it's a real service to those of us who think cycling should be affordable. And Ribble and GC are two of my faves! Great to hear you're checking with them!
My guess is the front deraileur is not mounted where it needs to be, Ignore the leave 1mm gap sticker, raise the front draileur up very slightly so the chain is between the wider part of the cage, Also make sure the cage is straight, I have setup 2 of these units now one on a 10 speed and one on a 11 speed, I found these 2 issues both times, easy fix.
I routed my brake hoses in this major on my build. Lynskey external gr300. Took 30 min to rout the brake cables through the steer tube, stem into the bars.
I've replaced Tiagra 10-speed with EDS-TX. It took me only three sessions of gear adjustments after initial installation to get it to a clean-no-rubbing setup. Not a single problem for about 500km. 🤔
I don't think it should "protect" the chainline at all. Shimano ultegra di2 allows you to cross chain big-big or small-small with no chain rub. Seems like you should be able to adjust the trim position to avoid chain rub.
When adjusting on the app it makes sense to have gear 1 to correspond to the smallest cog as that’s when rear derailleur would have the cable under least tension, so the numbers are not arbitrary, they should correspond to tension in the cable if there was any. Increasing the number next to the “gear” the app would be equivalent to increasing the cable tension for each cog separately.
I've been running my wheeltop groupset set for 2 months now with the only issue being the rubber hoods being tough to roll back. Excellent content keep it up
They refused to send me one after initially contacting me asking for a review. I said on my terms - they were not to control the narrative, unbias fair review etc and they immediately pulled out without citing a reason. PS which russian oligarch is Og Evkin?
Chinese doesn't seem to want honest feedback.. I have had a Yoeleo R21 for a few years now, with issues regarding truing the front caliper, molding flaws and cracking seatpost. Cannot get any help from them - and the funny part, I have been banned from commenting on their fb site 😀
Thanks for the honesty PeakTorque. Honestly, wheeltop has flooded the internet with gifted groupsets to mostly everyone with an Instagram or RUclips account with enough followers. And all reviews seem so fakey ... . I just don't even see the appeal: battery fixed to the rear derailleur as opposed to sram (so if you are bikepacking or something, it is a mess to charge, and if the battery cells die in the middle of a cycle, you are screwed). And the price ... I don't even think it is that cheap. I manage to get my hands on a combo of SRAM rival levers and brakes + SRAM GX axs derailleur for about 500€ in AliExpress on sales. Sure it does not have a front derailleur, but it works flawlessly and breaks really nice (actually much better than I expected for SRAM). As said, I just don't see the point of these wheeltop, I rather look out of for sales on a 105di2 or a rival axs to be honest. PS. @tracevelo, you should give a go to the sensah teampro 12s hydros + Shimano derailleurs. I have one built with a grx 810 and I am pretty amazing how razor sharp the shift and the breaks are. The hoods are huge but even with my small hands they are absolutely fine.
I have recently purchased lexon frame with elite wheels and wheel top EDS group set rivi crank arms ztto bb goldix chain rings 46/32 Meroca rotors running 45 mm gravel tires haven't had a problem with anything at all yet Don't over 400 miles on gravel I am a heavy rider at 92 kilos who rides fast and aggressive the bike and components have stood the test so far haven't had any issues with front Meck rub.
OZ cycle did a great tutorial on how to install the groupset. He did a great job explaining the process of indexing the gears as well. Worth checking it out
@@seniruamarasinghe52 Look around for the "Steven John Leffanue jailed for beating neighbour's dog to death near Victor Harbor" ABC report to find your answer.
I have this groupset, ride 2.5k with it. Probably was lucky with front derauleur, because have no any issues and had fast instalation. I have it istalled togather with ali Racework chainring. What i can see in 20:35 of your video, you could try to lift derauleur 1-1.5mm up, it can help. Take a close look on to form of the steel rail, that rubbing chain, you'll understand why i say that lifting derauleur up can help.
When finetuning the front and rear mech keep in mind that a bigger number will move the front (or rear) mech towards the frame. A smaller number will move it away from the frame. Front mech auto trim can be adjusted but has to be unlocked by Wheeltop support team. Gear 2 is autotrim position with the chain on the large chainring and the rear derailleur on the 6 small sprockets. Gear 3 is autotrim position of the front mech with the chain on the big ring and the rear derailleur on the 6 big sprockets. Gear 4 is small chainring and small sprockets autotrim position. Gear 5 is autotrim position with the chain on the small chainring and on the 6 large sprockets.
Sent email to wheeltop and they in fast reply granted me access to FD fine tunning, and some others options and settings appear in app... Will do changes with time and very carefull... The hardware seems to have lot of potential ...
I think an important aspect to consider is the fact that this group set is not set with one speed type, rather a range. And a wide one at that. Sure, an Ultegra or even a 105 will need less initial setup, calibration, indexing fixes, but they also do come pre set for a set gear range, and work best with other shimano components. This is something Wheeltop cannot reasonably compete with. They provide the flexibility at a reasonable price. And the greater the flexibility, the greater the configuration. They are almost one and the same.
6:40 They now make funnels that has 2 rubbers to press in and seal instead of threading so that you can thread different size adapters in the lever easily and then press the funnel!
Qué buenos tus videos. No soy muy bueno con el inglés pero entiendo TODO lo que decís. Sos muy detallado en tus análisis, respondes cosas que todos los usuarios reales preguntaríamos.
About the lag in shifting the Bice Sauce said that it a power saving setting. You can put it in Race mode and it will shift instantly but eat away on the battery
I installed the rim brake version on my tandem and apart from some difficulty learning the app, have been very pleased with it. Have not experienced any front derailleur chain rub. But my tandem ls longer from crank to rear wheel so the chain angles are less which would make a difference with rubbing. Anyway, very happy with the wheeltop EDS on my bike.
Great video! Luckily I am experiencing very little front derailleur rub with my Wheeltop EDS, with a 53/39 105 crank. It was not easy to find the correct angle when fitting the FD onto the bracket, as initially I had the cage hitting the pedal, but then it went in nicely and found the correct angle. The indexing was not immediately clear with the app, but somehow it made sense after a bit and even I managed to do it.. As you said you have to move in and out of the gear for the change to happen. I now have a little rub when I start moving beyond the middle of the 11-30 cassette towards the larger cogs. The result is that I move to the small ring earlier than usual and it is working great also to maintain a better cadence. Braking with rims is better than with the 105 levers with the same callipers.
With mechanical front derailleur are siniliar chain rub issues.The solutions are: try adjust different angle of the front derailleur, sometimes it is the issue. Derailleur mount has always adjustable screw, which pushes against the seat tube. Also spacers as you tried starting from 0.5mm.
Thanks for this review. I actually had equivalent issues with the LTWOO eRX front derailleur, using a sram force 12speed cassette and sram force plates (pretty standard build, in a SL8 clone). It was driving me crazy, and it helps to see that I am not the only one facing these kind of problems.
You know you could just buy a decent adjustable pin spanner. Lots of them on the market, Park do springy ones, Super B do an arm type or any normal mechanics tool supplier.
Great review of the Wheeltop EDS TX! Though I think for the money I'd still opt for the LTwoo ER9/X groupset. I find LTwoo's app to be quite good with a simple interface. In comparison, Wheeltop's app looks like it needs refining. Also no issues with the LTwoo FD and bleeding the Ltwoo shifters are just as easy as Shimano hydraulic shifters.
Tight hood rubber is a blessing!! the rubber on my expensive GRX hoods is an absolutely dreadful loose fit and looks pants… has since new. these cheap hoods look miles better!
Good review! I’ve had the same front derailleur issues, & this is despite the initial set the screw limits first. I’ve ended up running a 1x on my bike - 46t chainring, with a 12 speed 11-34 cassette. No chain rub, just great for cruising on the flat 🥖🥖
Had that rub chain issue with my microshift setup. Front shifter has a 1.position, 1.trim, 2. position, 2.trim. Recomended setup is to start from smaller chainring as a 1. position and biggest cog on cassette when tuning. Never worked. Sometimes chain was rubbing on a position and on trim chain was rubbing on oposite side of deraileur cage. That was driving me crazy 😄 At last, best way to setup front deraileur was exact opposite. Start with big chainring and smaller cog on cassette, shifter on 2.trim position. Basically im riding on 2.trim always with bigger chainring, 1.postiton is for 4 lowest gear cogs, 1. trim for second higher gear of cassette. Hope make sense, maybe helped
You need to contact wheeltop and get them to unlock the fine tuning page. Change gear 1 to 80 and gear 5 to 1100. They actually made the changes for me, otherwise I would not have known what to change . They made gear 5 1090 I increased to 1100 . if the chain drops Ill drop it back to 1090
If you go into preferences whilst connected to groupset through the app, you can switch off rear derailleur shift protection, I find it works a lot better, also on the front derailleur I actually praised the gap open a little inside the cage which stopped the chain rub completely. Hope this helps! My groupset so far works brilliantly on 11 speed and twelve Also if you change to a different size cassette is 11 to 12 it doesn't keep your settings, so I screen shot my settings for both 11 & 12 speed cassettes
The newer EZmtb bras blead kit 2023 have no threads on the cup it is push on for the adapters. So you can probably use adapter on that pot. And the pot has no stick. You pull up a little bit to so the oil won't run out. After that you remove the cup. I have that blead kit and it is pretty good. It is maby time to upgrade your bleed kit Luke. Have a good bike ride!
16:38 - Shimano does the same. Small on the front - 3-rd on the read max. It was done to let you increase drivetrain capacity. If you will put a very big cassette on the rear, you will need to use a long chain for proper shifting. But if you will put longer chain and shifts small front+smallest read - you chain will loose tension. To avoid this Shimano limited it. And on the opposite way, big in front and big on the rear - this is not the case to be a problem.
Just picked up a full GRX drivetrain and other parts from AliExpress last week... shoot these carbon fiber frames being this cheap now... I may have to pull the trigger and move all the parts over to one :D Thanks for all the great chinese product content! It really helps us afford our hobby!
With that little brass piece, there’s an Ez bleed kit that has quick connector and it definitely compatible with their cup for bleeding. It’s the new version of the kit you have, just has brass joining bits instead of plastic. Hope this helps trace.
I installed my Wheeltop groupset just a few days ago and had the same issues. I managed to get most of the chain rub gone with the limit screws, but it took me around 4 hours of adjusting and trying all sorts of things. I have a very slight ticking sound in one or two of the middle gears in the rear when in the large gear in front. But it's not too annoying for me. Haven't tried it in the small front gear yet though, maybe those are noisy because of rub. On the bit of the 6 positions: I had the same issue, but I did figure out which position was what. If I remember correctly it shows a little diagram of what the position means when you click on one.
I have exactly the same issue with chain rub on the front derailleur. Rubs in gear 1 and no matter what I do can’t get rid of it. Tried starting from scratch. Adjusting FD position. What I also notice if you adjust the position of FD through the app, at a certain point it thinks it’s in a completely different position so it stops going into the big ring. I’ll Just put up with the rubbing noise in my 30 as it’s not used too often. I’ve noticed since the update I get chain drops as it struggles to get into the big ring when in the middle of the rear cassette. I’m sure if they listen to feedback then get the app sorted the gears would be really good.
Of course basic 105 Di2 would out perform it. You are the best sport ever! Delving into these chinese parts. Most if not nearly all riders would not want to deal with these bits and pieces, most just wanna ride!
Oh no, the frame looks awesome but sadly the groupset actually gave you a hard time. Hope everything's okay mate, I'm a fan from the Philippines and thanks to you I've learned how to maintain and service my bike. Wishing you all the best and cheers for such a wonderful video 🥖🥖🥖
For me, these new Chinese groups are prototypes that sell, they will only be corrected/improved in the future, years from now if the brand still exists. Then it could be a good purchase.
The front mech can only take up to 50t chainring due to the mounting point design. Also，disregarding that sticker luke， you will need to mount the fd much higher than you used to so there won't be any chainrub.
Had the same issues You need to get access to FD values in the app from wheeltop And sort it out from there Its a little confusing but works excellent now
Again, a non-biased review. Thank you Luke. For me, until they don't fix the app and patch the firmware with auto trim, this groupset is a huge no go for me. Basically it's a beta version product released to the market and the buyers are funding further developmemt. This is a same aproach ltwoo took with their first gen erx and erg
GREAT review - thanks. This comment is probably too late to be read by you but it would have been incredibly informative to know if your issues would have been solved by using "standard" cassettes & cranksets, i.e. Shimano or Sram or FSA. I know that you favor the bargain basement and ultralight parts, but you reviewed an SROAD cassette - cheap & extremely light, a while back and gave it a good review but I used the same SROAD cassette and kept having to play w/ the derailleur (cable tension, B-Screw, etc) including replacing my relatively new 105 derailleur w/ a newer one to no avail. Finally replaced the SROAD w/ an 11-34 Shimano 105 cassette and all the shifting issues disappeared. Sooo, it would be invaluable to know if your problems are due to your "non standard" parts
Sram-style cranks really load up their retention bolts, i snapped one while riding. Went Shimano-style crank, which uses pinch-bolts. Never had issues.
Really appreciate the balanced and insightful vids Luke . Let’s hope Santa puts a pin spanner in your stocking this year (nb : 2 standard sizes ). In the meantime hope 🥖🥖🥖 suffice 👍
Yeah I found the same lift the front derailleur up a few mm’s helps a lot .. fine tuning rear was a faf and still needs some more in middle of the cassette.. I also found it strange there are no nipples on the calipers made it a more messy job ..and them hood covers WOW 🥖🥖🥖 Dave
1. Moving only after you save the settings and shift would prevent the motor from burning out from the micro-adjustment and also if your crank isn't turning. 2. Is there a H and L limit screw and are they set to the max ? 3. Have you consider changing a bottom bracket ? 4. What about adjusting the FD mount every so slightly ? 5. Lastly, what about physically bending the FD guide ever slightly ?
I think you are missing the latest type of click on bleed kit. Much easier than usual kits, that's why you didn't know how to use this so called strange brass bit
Having just fitted R8000 Ultegra mechanical (with their new bracing solution for the front mech), I'm not sure I would move to electronic. Sure, you have 2 run another pair of cables but that's not too complicated (and rim brake R8000 Di2 don't have wireless shifters anyway for some reason.....).
Shimano 11sp Di2 has the same behaviour about gear combo limitations. Itt may be to stop the chain rubbing across the big ring, or getting caught on cassette teeth in the 11t/12t.
I love that frame. I actually have the CF025 frame but they only had black so I paid to get it professionally sprayed that exact red with white decals lol. Could’ve saved myself a lot of faff
The feature where it stops at the last 2 sprockets when in the smaller ring, and not in the big ring, is a Shimano di2 feature. In terms of your crankset, I recall seeing the RIRO has a q factor of 153mm whereas a Shimano crankset is 146mm, The RIRO is more for gravel not road. Suggest you look for a road crankset and try again
The correct way is the adjust front gear 5 offset to enlarge the gap. unfortunately there is no official doc for this, I checked video on bilibili to know how. the translated doc in the video: Front Shifter Front Gear Position Gear Meaning 80 1 When pressing the left shifter button, the front shifter moves from the small chainring to the large chainring. Release the button and determine the gear position according to the rear shifter, either 2 or 3. 0 2 Corresponds to the outer 6 sprockets of the large chainring (smallest 6 sprockets). 180 3 Corresponds to the inner 6 sprockets of the large chainring (largest 6 sprockets). 780 4 Corresponds to the outer 6 sprockets of the small chainring (smallest 6 sprockets). 1160 5 Corresponds to the inner 6 sprockets of the small chainring (largest 6 sprockets). 660 6 When pressing the left shifter button, the front shifter moves from the large chainring to the small chainring. Release the button and determine the gear position according to the rear shifter, either 4 or 5. The larger the value, the closer it is to the frame.
The title is all I need to stick with collecting the parts from eBay/second hand I need to complete my DA 12sp group #trusttheprocess Almost pulled the trigger a few times on this Wheeltop too 🤪
The bearings weren’t mislabeled, they must have been made across the planet from you, so it makes sense why they are seemingly upside down mislabeled (actually it is likely if a mechanic is working on the bike in a stand, the frame could be upside down depending on the setup, therefore the top and bottom would be seemingly reversed, or that’s my take on it)
7:34 - I have a set of adapters like that, where the fluid cup has a push to close-and disconnect valve on it and it's just o-ringed into a smooth adapter like you have there. I suspect that's what this was (it was an AliExpress kit)
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Did you use the correct process to set and adjust the wheeltop system? I bet not and this created a headache. Same happened to me. Step one set the limit screws. Step two select new cassette, 11 in my case. Step three initial setup gear number one only then leave initial calibration. Step four fine tune the cassette and derailer. If you do any of this out is sequence you will have no idea what’s wrong and chase your tail. Now repeat for the front using the limit screws for very fine tuning. The secret to getting the front derailer to stop rubbing is to make sure there’s a 3 to 4 mm gap between the bottom of the front derailer and the top of the large chain ring. I can see yours is to low and needs more gap. If you get it any smaller, it will rub. Mine shifts perfectly with zero rubbing. Now ask me how I figured this all out 😂 yep the hard way. Because as you said the app is not good. Hope this helps.
PS I have a rotor 13s cassette on the way to make mine a 2x13.
🥖🥖🥖🥖
Just to ask bar the set up how do you rate the groupset?
@@darrengarvie8832 I will need more time with it. I found the setup to be a real learning experience and can see how others will have issues. The instructions are bad and the translations are as well. The app makes sense now but was not easy to figure out at all. Overall I think with some updates it will be good. The other thing to remember this will work on almost any frame from 135mm qr to 142 through…. With a system so universal the setup will be very equipment specific.
Funnily enough, electronic groupsets are supposed to be easy to install and setup... following this installation procedure and not being able to set up the groupset correctly if you don't follow it is anything but user friendly or intuitive.
@@11robotics "electronic groupsets are supposed to be easy to install and setup" lets go see how to install sram 13spd groupset🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for your honest review!
Here in Russia we have a lot of Chinese brands because of the sanctions. And wheeltop is among them. It has number of issues. Carbon fiber cage and shifters aren't carbon fiber. Just a plastic with carbon texture. It doesnt work with 105 cranks. Water proofing is non existent. You have to waterproof it yourself. Shifting is non perfect etc.
But the saving grace is it is cheap. It's installed on a sub $1000 bikes. When I've bought my full carbon aero bike with carbon wheels and wheeltop for $960 it was OK. I expected a lot of cut corners.
But when I saw wheeltop selling their groupset as a standalone product with $700+ price tag it was mind boggling. But not a mind boggling as the stellar reviews all along the internet. When I'm absolutely sure this product is half baked and can not be recommended to anyone at this point.
You're the only one who made an honest review. With all the pros but also not sugar coating the cons.
Soon those dollars are going to be expensive for you
It works great on my 105 crank here.
@@DCer0 сколько ждать? Уже два года ждем бакс по 200, как завещал байден. Правда байден уже закончился, ждем перлов от харрис?
Bravo Russia from Scotland
I've had mince since release. Zero problems...I live in Ireland and it hasn't stopped raining since this has been on my bike...no issues
Luke you are a true professional man!! The content and expertise opinion you share on the channel is top notch man!! Stand up guy, I enjoy or chats. Great video 🎉🎉
As a programmer, gamer and overall tech/computer nerd, I can't imagine anything worse than having electronic shifters which require a phone app to control, batteries to charge/replace and a company to pray for not going out of business and shutting down their software divisions.
Not just this groupset you've shown here, even the Shinamo/SRAM ones. To me the beauty of a bike is it's simplicity. I want a bike that I can keep and ride forever. No software updates, no dead batteries, just me and an allen key.
To each their own, obviously, but my experience with Shimano's Di2 Ultegra has been nothing but smooth sailing. Mine came setup from Dare and there has been no need to do anything with the app, it just works. The batteries lasts a long time and my head unit will tell me how much charge is left so there is no chance to run out of juice. And the shifting is just so much nicer than on my old mechanical groupset (which isn't zero maintenance, which was my main motivation to get the Di2).
@@8020Napping Shimano and SRAM are bloody expensive: $ 1000 for an electro motor and some BlueTooth tech.... I guess they (still) have patents to protect this (sub)market 😐
That's why I waited for your review! Now I will probably spent a bit extra and go 105 Di2.
There are some good SRAM deals going on too. Wireless is less hassle. Cheers
@@iancollins6104agree. I am very happy with my rival + GX combo. If I build an electronic roadie I will likely to full rival or force axs.
Re: front mech. Apologies if you've tried this already, but I thought I'd share what worked well for me: that is to set it up using the FD trim position as the starting / reference point.
1. Make sure the FD limit screws are fully backed out.
2. Have the RD on the largest of the rear sprockets that is the last one before the FD auto trim kicks in, i.e. middle of the block.
3. Then use the app to adjust the FD position so that it is just far enough outboard - but no further - that it will lift the chain onto the large chainring with a single short press of the button. (Note: If you keep the left shift button depressed it will do a full range upshift, rather than one limited by the trim position. I found that if the FD was too far inboard it wouldn't pick up the chain onto the big chainring without doing a long press. And if it was too far outboard I'd get the chain rubbing when on the larger sprockets.)
4. Finally, with the chain on the inner-big and then outer-small combinations respectively set the relevant FD limit screws.
Hope that's clear and of some use.
Doing it this way means you are working around the element of which you have no control.
Edit: spelling
Did pretty much the same 👌🏻
This also worked for me. Also raising the derailleur itself.
I had to do the same set the screw on the FD
Make sense to tune de FD in a positiong where the trim position is not active... Will test
The hero we wanted, but didn't know we needed. Thanks for another practical, insightful review. Your editing and garage studio are stellar!
Finally, a decent review of EDX in a flood of paid commercials that are nie everywhere on RUclips. Never disappointed by Luke
🥖
The tool you need for the bonus clip bit is called a "pin wrench". You probably have one from a classic cheapo ebay bike toolkit. They're usually used on older bottom brackets, but they should work here as long as the pins on the one you have are small enough to fit. Be easier than keeping the vice set permanently. You'll need one for a bike because the angle grinder removing kind have thicker pins. 🥖
Even better for adjustable pin spanner :)
I was (according to wheel top) the first user in Europe, so I’ve got a couple months of usage on it. I agree that the rubber on the hoods is super hard to pull back for bleeding…
Also agree the app is not the best, but after you get used to it it’s fine.
Initial calibration on the rear derraileur was completely out of whack for me. Basically just used it to set the “0” position for the smallest cog, and had to adjust all the gears from there.
But it’s not that hard, and after adjusted they work really well.
Regarding the front one, I emailed them to unlock the options and now I can configure all the trim positions, so it is working properly.
You again set the 0 position on the center of the big chainring and then adjust all the 4 “files” with big chainring small cogs, big big, small small, small bit.
The other two numbers are for the forced shift (where you press and hold the lever so it overshifts a bit for a couple of seconds).
I set those the same as I dont want it to force anything.
I only have one screw on my front derraileur 😅 but just set it so that it could move out enough to reach the big chainring and done. No faffing with spacers or anything just the numbers.
Braking has also been fine but I set mine with magura calipers just to be different and it stops amazingly well !!!
So far so good and battery life has been pretty decent.
My main gripe with this is that the gears are reported mirrored on the bike computer… you get used to it but it’s kind of stupid
Where did you e-mail to get it unlocked, as I got no response?
Had same issue with EDS levers rattling. You can unscrew the paddles from the back of the lever, dismantle the buttons and tighten a small screw to make the buttons less rattley !
Regarding the rubber on the hoods: Heat them up with a hair dryer if you need to pull them back.
Eyup, Luke. Been looking forward to your thoughts on this one. Crikey, that front derailleur chain rub is really bad. Must admit, mine does it a bit on the extremities, but nowhere near as bad.
And thanks for the mention 👍
Oh, and nearly forgot, here you go mate 🥖
If you ask support, they will grant you access to the front derailleur fine tune adjustments in the app - and very useful they are too
Front Derailleur fine tune has 6 settings:-
2 gear=0 Most OUTBOARD big chainring position (to aid transition)
1 gear=80 Trim position for big chainring and 6 smaller cogs.
3 gear=160 Trim for big CR and 6 bigger cogs
6 gear=660 Trim for small CR and 6 smaller cogs
4 gear=900 Trim for small CR and 6 bigger cogs
5 gear=1080 Most INBOARD small chainring position (to aid transition)
Reference to 6 smaller and 6 bigger cogs assumes a 12 speed cassette. For 11 speed cassettes, TRIM changes at 5 smallest to 6 biggest cogs.
The FD is the crux of the wheel top groupset. I took my front deraileur off and made it a 1x setup. After that, all my issues went away!
how to solve a problem: get rid of its source :)
How did you unpair the front to run a 1x? I am looking to do the same
@@OleBih put the RD in pairing mode (like you're turning it on) so the blue light is flashing. Next with the RD blue light flashing, press both shifters buttons several times which will tell the RD to exit pairing mode.
@@BSenn11 sorry but what's the procedure to put the rear in pairing mode? Thanks for your help!
I can't seem to get the blue light to flash
Testing with a wonky cassette and crankset was a sure way of giving you trouble, I think. I was testing a couple of cheap cassettes I got from AliExpress on my 12-speed Ultegra Di2 bike, and had I not known how the groupset works with its genuine cassette, I would have been quite disappointed in the whole thing, because the cassettes look totally fine but...don't work well even after endless adjustments and test rides. It's really (not) surprising how much the cassette/crankset and chainrings affect the performance of the whole groupset.
You can use a zip tie to compress the hood covers ao they are out of the way for the brake bleed
Thanks, as always, for doing this stuff; it's a real service to those of us who think cycling should be affordable. And Ribble and GC are two of my faves! Great to hear you're checking with them!
Funhouse?? i'd say that shirt was more of an *ART ATTACK* 🤘🤘
My guess is the front deraileur is not mounted where it needs to be, Ignore the leave 1mm gap sticker, raise the front draileur up very slightly so the chain is between the wider part of the cage, Also make sure the cage is straight, I have setup 2 of these units now one on a 10 speed and one on a 11 speed, I found these 2 issues both times, easy fix.
I routed my brake hoses in this major on my build. Lynskey external gr300. Took 30 min to rout the brake cables through the steer tube, stem into the bars.
I've replaced Tiagra 10-speed with EDS-TX. It took me only three sessions of gear adjustments after initial installation to get it to a clean-no-rubbing setup. Not a single problem for about 500km. 🤔
Yup, almost 2k in and no issues.
I don't think it should "protect" the chainline at all. Shimano ultegra di2 allows you to cross chain big-big or small-small with no chain rub. Seems like you should be able to adjust the trim position to avoid chain rub.
When adjusting on the app it makes sense to have gear 1 to correspond to the smallest cog as that’s when rear derailleur would have the cable under least tension, so the numbers are not arbitrary, they should correspond to tension in the cable if there was any. Increasing the number next to the “gear” the app would be equivalent to increasing the cable tension for each cog separately.
I've been running my wheeltop groupset set for 2 months now with the only issue being the rubber hoods being tough to roll back. Excellent content keep it up
They refused to send me one after initially contacting me asking for a review. I said on my terms - they were not to control the narrative, unbias fair review etc and they immediately pulled out without citing a reason. PS which russian oligarch is Og Evkin?
Did you have to inform them about your independent review plan?
Interesting you would give an honest opinion too.
Chinese doesn't seem to want honest feedback.. I have had a Yoeleo R21 for a few years now, with issues regarding truing the front caliper, molding flaws and cracking seatpost. Cannot get any help from them - and the funny part, I have been banned from commenting on their fb site 😀
Thanks for the honesty PeakTorque. Honestly, wheeltop has flooded the internet with gifted groupsets to mostly everyone with an Instagram or RUclips account with enough followers. And all reviews seem so fakey ... . I just don't even see the appeal: battery fixed to the rear derailleur as opposed to sram (so if you are bikepacking or something, it is a mess to charge, and if the battery cells die in the middle of a cycle, you are screwed). And the price ... I don't even think it is that cheap. I manage to get my hands on a combo of SRAM rival levers and brakes + SRAM GX axs derailleur for about 500€ in AliExpress on sales. Sure it does not have a front derailleur, but it works flawlessly and breaks really nice (actually much better than I expected for SRAM). As said, I just don't see the point of these wheeltop, I rather look out of for sales on a 105di2 or a rival axs to be honest.
PS. @tracevelo, you should give a go to the sensah teampro 12s hydros + Shimano derailleurs. I have one built with a grx 810 and I am pretty amazing how razor sharp the shift and the breaks are. The hoods are huge but even with my small hands they are absolutely fine.
weird, they sent me one with no questions asked and told me to do what I wanted
As the saying goes, every extra penny deserves its value.
I have recently purchased lexon frame with elite wheels and wheel top EDS group set
rivi crank arms ztto bb
goldix chain rings 46/32 Meroca rotors running 45 mm gravel tires haven't had a problem with anything at all yet Don't over 400 miles on gravel I am a heavy rider at 92 kilos who rides fast and aggressive the bike and components have stood the test so far haven't had any issues with front Meck rub.
OZ cycle did a great tutorial on how to install the groupset. He did a great job explaining the process of indexing the gears as well. Worth checking it out
Was that before or after some dog beating?
@@mikemiller756 what?
@@seniruamarasinghe52 Look around for the "Steven John Leffanue jailed for beating neighbour's dog to death near Victor Harbor" ABC report to find your answer.
I have this groupset, ride 2.5k with it. Probably was lucky with front derauleur, because have no any issues and had fast instalation. I have it istalled togather with ali Racework chainring. What i can see in 20:35 of your video, you could try to lift derauleur 1-1.5mm up, it can help. Take a close look on to form of the steel rail, that rubbing chain, you'll understand why i say that lifting derauleur up can help.
When finetuning the front and rear mech keep in mind that a bigger number will move the front (or rear) mech towards the frame. A smaller number will move it away from the frame. Front mech auto trim can be adjusted but has to be unlocked by Wheeltop support team. Gear 2 is autotrim position with the chain on the large chainring and the rear derailleur on the 6 small sprockets. Gear 3 is autotrim position of the front mech with the chain on the big ring and the rear derailleur on the 6 big sprockets. Gear 4 is small chainring and small sprockets autotrim position. Gear 5 is autotrim position with the chain on the small chainring and on the 6 large sprockets.
Tanks... still dont have my app unblocked in this part but had no idea anyway what that gears numbers mean , now I have
Sent email to wheeltop and they in fast reply granted me access to FD fine tunning, and some others options and settings appear in app...
Will do changes with time and very carefull...
The hardware seems to have lot of potential ...
the brass brake-bleed adapter is meant to connect to quick release hydraulic fittings that are common on brass-made kits.
I have some OG Evkin bits. All lovely quality. Will stick with my Sensah groupset though. Thanks for all this investigative work....
I think an important aspect to consider is the fact that this group set is not set with one speed type, rather a range. And a wide one at that. Sure, an Ultegra or even a 105 will need less initial setup, calibration, indexing fixes, but they also do come pre set for a set gear range, and work best with other shimano components. This is something Wheeltop cannot reasonably compete with. They provide the flexibility at a reasonable price. And the greater the flexibility, the greater the configuration. They are almost one and the same.
6:40 They now make funnels that has 2 rubbers to press in and seal instead of threading so that you can thread different size adapters in the lever easily and then press the funnel!
Qué buenos tus videos. No soy muy bueno con el inglés pero entiendo TODO lo que decís. Sos muy detallado en tus análisis, respondes cosas que todos los usuarios reales preguntaríamos.
About the lag in shifting the Bice Sauce said that it a power saving setting. You can put it in Race mode and it will shift instantly but eat away on the battery
I installed the rim brake version on my tandem and apart from some difficulty learning the app, have been very pleased with it. Have not experienced any front derailleur chain rub. But my tandem ls longer from crank to rear wheel so the chain angles are less which would make a difference with rubbing. Anyway, very happy with the wheeltop EDS on my bike.
Great video! Luckily I am experiencing very little front derailleur rub with my Wheeltop EDS, with a 53/39 105 crank. It was not easy to find the correct angle when fitting the FD onto the bracket, as initially I had the cage hitting the pedal, but then it went in nicely and found the correct angle. The indexing was not immediately clear with the app, but somehow it made sense after a bit and even I managed to do it.. As you said you have to move in and out of the gear for the change to happen. I now have a little rub when I start moving beyond the middle of the 11-30 cassette towards the larger cogs. The result is that I move to the small ring earlier than usual and it is working great also to maintain a better cadence. Braking with rims is better than with the 105 levers with the same callipers.
The Trace Velo Colourway on this frame is tempting! Red and Black frame also looking very nice, great vid allways enjoy a bike build on your chanel.
With mechanical front derailleur are siniliar chain rub issues.The solutions are: try adjust different angle of the front derailleur, sometimes it is the issue. Derailleur mount has always adjustable screw, which pushes against the seat tube. Also spacers as you tried starting from 0.5mm.
And Luke, an universal angle grinder wrench would help you with those top caps
Thanks for this review. I actually had equivalent issues with the LTWOO eRX front derailleur, using a sram force 12speed cassette and sram force plates (pretty standard build, in a SL8 clone). It was driving me crazy, and it helps to see that I am not the only one facing these kind of problems.
You know you could just buy a decent adjustable pin spanner. Lots of them on the market, Park do springy ones, Super B do an arm type or any normal mechanics tool supplier.
Great review of the Wheeltop EDS TX! Though I think for the money I'd still opt for the LTwoo ER9/X groupset. I find LTwoo's app to be quite good with a simple interface. In comparison, Wheeltop's app looks like it needs refining. Also no issues with the LTwoo FD and bleeding the Ltwoo shifters are just as easy as Shimano hydraulic shifters.
I feel like the wheeltop EDS will be wicked though when the flaws are ironed out!
Tight hood rubber is a blessing!! the rubber on my expensive GRX hoods is an absolutely dreadful loose fit and looks pants… has since new. these cheap hoods look miles better!
Great video Luke, but i could hear @ChrisMillerCycling from the nero show screaming "I told you so" at wheeltop groupset 😂
Good review! I’ve had the same front derailleur issues, & this is despite the initial set the screw limits first. I’ve ended up running a 1x on my bike - 46t chainring, with a 12 speed 11-34 cassette. No chain rub, just great for cruising on the flat 🥖🥖
Had that rub chain issue with my microshift setup. Front shifter has a 1.position, 1.trim, 2. position, 2.trim. Recomended setup is to start from smaller chainring as a 1. position and biggest cog on cassette when tuning. Never worked. Sometimes chain was rubbing on a position and on trim chain was rubbing on oposite side of deraileur cage. That was driving me crazy 😄
At last, best way to setup front deraileur was exact opposite. Start with big chainring and smaller cog on cassette, shifter on 2.trim position.
Basically im riding on 2.trim always with bigger chainring, 1.postiton is for 4 lowest gear cogs, 1. trim for second higher gear of cassette.
Hope make sense, maybe helped
That red is a beautiful. Looks very similar to the shade of red used on the 2024 Time Alpe d'huez.
You need to contact wheeltop and get them to unlock the fine tuning page. Change gear 1 to 80 and gear 5 to 1100. They actually made the changes for me, otherwise I would not have known what to change . They made gear 5 1090 I increased to 1100 . if the chain drops Ill drop it back to 1090
If you go into preferences whilst connected to groupset through the app, you can switch off rear derailleur shift protection, I find it works a lot better, also on the front derailleur I actually praised the gap open a little inside the cage which stopped the chain rub completely.
Hope this helps!
My groupset so far works brilliantly on 11 speed and twelve
Also if you change to a different size cassette is 11 to 12 it doesn't keep your settings, so I screen shot my settings for both 11 & 12 speed cassettes
To remove the top cap of your crank you could use a two pin watch back removing tool - £3.49 on the Bay of E.
The newer EZmtb bras blead kit 2023 have no threads on the cup it is push on for the adapters.
So you can probably use adapter on that pot.
And the pot has no stick. You pull up a little bit to so the oil won't run out.
After that you remove the cup.
I have that blead kit and it is pretty good.
It is maby time to upgrade your bleed kit Luke.
Have a good bike ride!
This bike looks fantastic. I absolutely adore it and this red suits it so well.
16:38 - Shimano does the same. Small on the front - 3-rd on the read max. It was done to let you increase drivetrain capacity. If you will put a very big cassette on the rear, you will need to use a long chain for proper shifting. But if you will put longer chain and shifts small front+smallest read - you chain will loose tension. To avoid this Shimano limited it. And on the opposite way, big in front and big on the rear - this is not the case to be a problem.
Just picked up a full GRX drivetrain and other parts from AliExpress last week... shoot these carbon fiber frames being this cheap now... I may have to pull the trigger and move all the parts over to one :D Thanks for all the great chinese product content! It really helps us afford our hobby!
With that little brass piece, there’s an Ez bleed kit that has quick connector and it definitely compatible with their cup for bleeding. It’s the new version of the kit you have, just has brass joining bits instead of plastic. Hope this helps trace.
I installed my Wheeltop groupset just a few days ago and had the same issues. I managed to get most of the chain rub gone with the limit screws, but it took me around 4 hours of adjusting and trying all sorts of things. I have a very slight ticking sound in one or two of the middle gears in the rear when in the large gear in front. But it's not too annoying for me.
Haven't tried it in the small front gear yet though, maybe those are noisy because of rub.
On the bit of the 6 positions: I had the same issue, but I did figure out which position was what. If I remember correctly it shows a little diagram of what the position means when you click on one.
I have exactly the same issue with chain rub on the front derailleur. Rubs in gear 1 and no matter what I do can’t get rid of it. Tried starting from scratch.
Adjusting FD position. What I also notice if you adjust the position of FD through the app, at a certain point it thinks it’s in a completely different position so it stops going into the big ring.
I’ll Just put up with the rubbing noise in my 30 as it’s not used too often.
I’ve noticed since the update I get chain drops as it struggles to get into the big ring when in the middle of the rear cassette.
I’m sure if they listen to feedback then get the app sorted the gears would be really good.
Luke's Vintage Shirt on a Vintage Road Bike, Rim Brakes, Down Tube Shifters for the Win 🖖👍
Of course basic 105 Di2 would out perform it.
You are the best sport ever! Delving into these chinese parts. Most if not nearly all riders would not want to deal with these bits and pieces, most just wanna ride!
I just bought some M2 Gravel things and some glasses from Siroko and the will be here tommorow.
Good work mate.
Oh no, the frame looks awesome but sadly the groupset actually gave you a hard time. Hope everything's okay mate, I'm a fan from the Philippines and thanks to you I've learned how to maintain and service my bike. Wishing you all the best and cheers for such a wonderful video 🥖🥖🥖
FWIW, SramAXS also prevents the small-small but will allow Big-Big. It's more about chain slack than anything.
For me, these new Chinese groups are prototypes that sell, they will only be corrected/improved in the future, years from now if the brand still exists. Then it could be a good purchase.
I bought WHEELTOP EDS-OX YQ MTB Wireless Electronic Shifter/Derailleur before watching your video, I hope I don't have any problems
The front mech can only take up to 50t chainring due to the mounting point design. Also，disregarding that sticker luke， you will need to mount the fd much higher than you used to so there won't be any chainrub.
Definitely giving Andi Peters vibes 😂 Great content as ever Luke 🥖🥖🥖
As usual a 5🥖 review, honest informative and entertaining!🥖
Had the same issues
You need to get access to FD values in the app from wheeltop
And sort it out from there
Its a little confusing but works excellent now
Again, a non-biased review. Thank you Luke. For me, until they don't fix the app and patch the firmware with auto trim, this groupset is a huge no go for me. Basically it's a beta version product released to the market and the buyers are funding further developmemt. This is a same aproach ltwoo took with their first gen erx and erg
the hacksaw drifted so much it will be featured on the next fast and furious.
GREAT review - thanks.
This comment is probably too late to be read by you but it would have been incredibly informative to know if your issues would have been solved by using "standard" cassettes & cranksets, i.e. Shimano or Sram or FSA.
I know that you favor the bargain basement and ultralight parts, but you reviewed an SROAD cassette - cheap & extremely light, a while back and gave it a good review but I used the same SROAD cassette and kept having to play w/ the derailleur (cable tension, B-Screw, etc) including replacing my relatively new 105 derailleur w/ a newer one to no avail. Finally replaced the SROAD w/ an 11-34 Shimano 105 cassette and all the shifting issues disappeared.
Sooo, it would be invaluable to know if your problems are due to your "non standard" parts
Sram-style cranks really load up their retention bolts, i snapped one while riding.
Went Shimano-style crank, which uses pinch-bolts. Never had issues.
That's a good looking frame,Luke! Love the graphics and colors.
That frame looks sick!!!! Wicked. Shame the groupset issues shadowed that a bit.
Really appreciate the balanced and insightful vids Luke . Let’s hope Santa puts a pin spanner in your stocking this year (nb : 2 standard sizes ). In the meantime hope 🥖🥖🥖 suffice 👍
Yeah I found the same lift the front derailleur up a few mm’s helps a lot .. fine tuning rear was a faf and still needs some more in middle of the cassette..
I also found it strange there are no nipples on the calipers made it a more messy job ..and them hood covers WOW 🥖🥖🥖
Dave
I ended using cable ties, to hold the hoods back on my wheel top build.
1. Moving only after you save the settings and shift would prevent the motor from burning out from the micro-adjustment and also if your crank isn't turning.
2. Is there a H and L limit screw and are they set to the max ?
3. Have you consider changing a bottom bracket ?
4. What about adjusting the FD mount every so slightly ?
5. Lastly, what about physically bending the FD guide ever slightly ?
I think you are missing the latest type of click on bleed kit. Much easier than usual kits, that's why you didn't know how to use this so called strange brass bit
I'm surprised you didn't face problems with the LTwoo ERX front derailleur. The stated chainline is 49.5 - 51.5. That is literally boost chainline.
Shimano does the same, you can't use snall chainring and 2 smallest sprockets, but with big chainring you can whole cassette
Having just fitted R8000 Ultegra mechanical (with their new bracing solution for the front mech), I'm not sure I would move to electronic. Sure, you have 2 run another pair of cables but that's not too complicated (and rim brake R8000 Di2 don't have wireless shifters anyway for some reason.....).
still a bang for the buck groupset if issues get sorted out!!
Shimano 11sp Di2 has the same behaviour about gear combo limitations. Itt may be to stop the chain rubbing across the big ring, or getting caught on cassette teeth in the 11t/12t.
I love that frame. I actually have the CF025 frame but they only had black so I paid to get it professionally sprayed that exact red with white decals lol. Could’ve saved myself a lot of faff
The feature where it stops at the last 2 sprockets when in the smaller ring, and not in the big ring, is a Shimano di2 feature. In terms of your crankset, I recall seeing the RIRO has a q factor of 153mm whereas a Shimano crankset is 146mm, The RIRO is more for gravel not road. Suggest you look for a road crankset and try again
The correct way is the adjust front gear 5 offset to enlarge the gap. unfortunately there is no official doc for this, I checked video on bilibili to know how.
the translated doc in the video:
Front Shifter Front Gear Position Gear Meaning
80 1 When pressing the left shifter button, the front shifter moves from the small chainring to the large chainring. Release the button and determine the gear position according to the rear shifter, either 2 or 3.
0 2 Corresponds to the outer 6 sprockets of the large chainring (smallest 6 sprockets).
180 3 Corresponds to the inner 6 sprockets of the large chainring (largest 6 sprockets).
780 4 Corresponds to the outer 6 sprockets of the small chainring (smallest 6 sprockets).
1160 5 Corresponds to the inner 6 sprockets of the small chainring (largest 6 sprockets).
660 6 When pressing the left shifter button, the front shifter moves from the large chainring to the small chainring. Release the button and determine the gear position according to the rear shifter, either 4 or 5.
The larger the value, the closer it is to the frame.
I have this GS for a few months now and never experienced any of the issues.
The title is all I need to stick with collecting the parts from eBay/second hand I need to complete my DA 12sp group #trusttheprocess Almost pulled the trigger a few times on this Wheeltop too 🤪
such a nice content trace!! I didn`t know that og-kevin have a carbon frameset.
Luke... you don't need any specialised tools for this type of top cap. All you need is an adjustable pin wrench.
The bearings weren’t mislabeled, they must have been made across the planet from you, so it makes sense why they are seemingly upside down mislabeled
(actually it is likely if a mechanic is working on the bike in a stand, the frame could be upside down depending on the setup, therefore the top and bottom would be seemingly reversed, or that’s my take on it)
Luke - always enjoy your high quality content. Thanks! :)
7:34 - I have a set of adapters like that, where the fluid cup has a push to close-and disconnect valve on it and it's just o-ringed into a smooth adapter like you have there. I suspect that's what this was (it was an AliExpress kit)
I my Ali express bikes I always go to Shimano gears and levers. Good video as usual 🥖🥖🥖