Could you compare the xact suspension with the 890 xplor and xplor pro stuff? After getting a second set of wheels for my 890, I'll be looking to put all new suspension on my 890 s. I'm between waiting for used set of xplor pro stuff, tractives +40mm for the stock 43mm suspension, or possibly go nuts & figure out how to fit xact pro stuff on.
How did you get the Acerbis swing arm guards to fit on the left hand side of the bike with out removing the chain guard the tab hits the guide did you have to cut it of or what
I have an FE501S. MANDATORY 3 in 1 MOD. 1. EURO AIR INTAKE 2. ECU 3. EXHAUST You cannot do only one or only two. You must do all 3. Stock, the engine has Asthma. It cannot breathe because of the Reed valve. Do not waste your time or energy trying to modify the stock Air Intake. Eliminate it. The Stock EURO Air Intake tube is a straight hollow tube. No more air restriction. When you do that, you just made the engine tune too lean. Hence, the new ECU with proper tunes pre programmed for you to choose from. Mod 3, uncork it so it can eliminate all that air and fuel with a performance exhaust. A performance ECU demands more air and an unrestricted exhaust. I have the Euro Intake, a Vortex ECU and a Yoshimura Exhaust. It’s a beast. The throttle snaps. No more flame outs. Throttle performance is now instant. It does what I want it to do when I want it to do it. When it was stock, throttle response had a delay. I’d throttle…….and wait. No more. My Vortex has a tune available for elevations over 3,000 ft. to correct for less air density at higher elevations. Unfortunately, the FE501S, has a different wiring harness than the FE501. The FE501 has a factory MAP switch. I know this because I tried, but there is no way to attach the factory MAP switch into the FE501S. The only thing I need to do is install the Vortex MAP switch which will allow me to switch to a second MAP tune with the flip of the switch. I plan to use the Higher Elevation tune for position 2 since I have mountains nearby. I love my FE501S. I have also done the suspension, cone valves etc., the Acerbis. Consider Sicass front and rear blinkers. My Sicass handguards have the front blinkers integrated into them. Enjoy!
The tacomoto product page for the filter says that non-ferrous materials are also caught via static adhesion and entrapment, and at smaller particle sizes than a paper filter can catch. Kinda questionable for the larger non-ferrous stuff but who knows
I'd still prefer a physical oil filter, then stick a high strength magnet on top of the drain bolt, or just inside the case. Not all engine parts are (strongly) magnetic.
Hmm that was my same thought, I really didn't like the look of it but after looking at their product page I kind of like the idea, it seems to catch more material, much finer material, you can clean it super regularly too and it doesn't slow down oil at all at start up which is a massive bonus. I think if you were to run something for 10,000km without a filter change you should go paper but for a dirt bike or bike where you are willing to pop it out and clean it a couple times throughout oil fill life this would be much better I think, much to my surprise. They have tests and 18.5% of solids the rod collected were "Dust, dirt, sands" i.e. "dirt from outside world and silica from clutch pads." 33% iron and 44% carbon, they seems to be collecting everything I want it too and evenly enough.
For the high cost of performance motorcycles, one would think that you could order one set up at the factory for your weight + expected weight of all accessories. At least a selection of different spring/valve rates that would be within a range of maybe 5 lbs plus or minus of a riders desired combined weight.
@12:30 - FYI: a magnetic filter will only remove ferrous metals, however most of the metals used in the engine are NOT magnetic (lead, copper & zinc are used in the bearing shells; aluminum and stainless are also used on various other engine components... none of these metals will stick to a magnet)...bottom line, I would stick with a disposable paper filter. FYI: I have university degree in mechanical engineering (I did my senior thesis on tuned exhaust in 2-stroke engines - including cutting, rolling and welding my own expansion chambers) so I know far more about engines and engine design than the average person.
Agree, plus the price of that filter is about the same as the price of 40 OEM paper cartridges here in South Africa - so 600 hours of oil changes before it makes financial sense.
You did see that there was a secondary screen filter as part of the system, right? Any of the non-ferrous particulates too small to get caught in that are too small to do any damage anyway. Especially taking into account the average lifespan of these motors. If you were trying to get 300k miles out if it then yes you would want to filter much better to avoid fine abrasion wear that could occur over a long time, but for what they are and what they do this filtration system is more than adequate.
Awesome job Ian, I can't wait to see the final result. In all sincerity, once finished it will be awesome, but still dirt focused, just a bit less so, but at great cost. Why can't manufacturers produce a good 50:50 bike out of the box? For me, the only goldilocks adv bikes that I can think of are the new RE Himalayan, and the old CCM GP450.
We have to love Toco Mike and his excellent parts and service. By the way, I spent last month in northern Baja with my 500. I installed the 140/80-18 Motoz Tractionator Enduro S/T Rear (not I/T) on the rear and loved it. We got a lot more rain and mud than planned, and this tire was great in both the mud and deep sand. The Motoz front was out of stock locally, so I put the Michelin Enduro Medium Front Tire in 90/100-21. This tire also worked very well in the mud, sand, and rocky trails. I think I am now an official fatty convert. I am keen to see and hear about your experiences with this tire combo.
Thanks, Ian for that amazing content that is a lot of upgrades to that bike. I mean, he almost changed the bike around. I love the fact you’re able to accessorize and personalize the bike to your taste. Love the tail tidy the shocks.🎉
Just think, in 6 months he will sell this fantastic bike. I’m convinced that my modified 18 500 is my best option, even better than my 690 for my type of use. Nothing beats a 45kg weight reduction. Re gearing, I’ve run 15/42 for easy dirt riding and it can easily do it.
I am not 100% sure about this theory, but hear me out: While there are undeniably several parts in every modern engine which aremade out of non-magnetic material (aluminum, magnesium etc), maybe the logic here is: all parts that are actually in contact with another moving part and are therefore subjected to abrasion (bearings, gears, piston rings..) are always made out of steel. If that is the case, then there should never be any nonmagnetic particles in the engine oil (???). I can't really believe that the guys who developed this magnetic filter didn't think about this very basic question.
@@chukku2175 yes, but that there are no non metallic debris floating around in the oil is clearly false. Perhaps you can argue that they won’t make damage?
The tacomoto product page for the filter says that non-ferrous materials are also caught via static adhesion and entrapment, and at smaller particle sizes than a paper filter can catch. Kinda questionable for the larger non-ferrous stuff but who knows
I’m so glad you are doing this series! Our bikes are very similar. Hopefully I’ll get mine at the Dusty Lizard! I have the Mako360 and a Cush drive rear hub to hopefully lessen the vibration. I also have the Rekluse. I was on the fence with the Rekluse but after putting one on my 890 I wanted one on the 501, it makes a huge difference for me. I’m happy to see you like the suspension work! I honestly believe it’s such a good investment, for me anyway. If it keeps me off the ground one time it’s paid for itself many times over! Keep up the excellent content!
I got a 2016 501 and what really changed everything for me was a cush hub rear wheel. Any LC4 wheel will fit plug and play. I just tried 15/50 Gearing and it worked quite well on the highway but was a little long for some woods riding.
@@alexandre8598 Not much as the dirt allows slip on throttle and gear changes . On road though those shocks go straight to the gearbox as there is no tyre slip. If you are going to keep the bike for a while and rack up the km's it would be better to run a cush drive to reduce the wear to thoose components . If you have ever driven a 4x4 with locking diffs its a bit the same.
Good vid for those who have necer set up a bike it's likw a whole new machine made for you. Yes a Scott's is in need. Hat off to RTW PAUL who rides a similar KTM 2015 model or so. The vibes would do me in but a great bike none the less
The previous generation had wider ratio gearing and a tad taller 6th gear, and the reason is that the newer generation gearbox casing is the same as the 350s to save on weight, so they carried over the gearbox ratios as well. I love your videos Ian.
I just took my rear shock out last night. I took off the 4 subframe bolts and was able to pull through the top without removing the swing arm by sliding the subframe toward the air box.
Personally I would want separate blinkers on the rear. I know the integrated light is more compact, but someone behind you would not be able to tell that was a blinker or which way you were turning if they did think it was a blinker. I would be afraid of getting run over from behind with only that light.
I agree. The brake light/tail light he installed is not DOT rated and is dangerous for the riders safety for being so small. Also if someone runs into the back of you the lawyers will use it against you on both sides of the litigation.
The debates in the comments are entertaining so I hope they don't get you down Ian. This is an excellent video, and even though we the average person may not be able to afford all of it, it's still good to know what these terrific small business entrepreneurs are developing and making available. I appreciate your support of said businesses and getting the information about them and their products to we riders of all types . You're successfully doing this and making a living at it, so that does make you a subject matter expert regardless of some opinions which are a small vocal minority. I appreciate what they and even Ben have to say (just teasing Dork, I watch your videos too). We out here recognize what your audience is (us) and (as stated above) appreciate some "shilling" (if one must insist on calling it that). If you didn't, how would we know and how would we support these businesses that richly deserve to be supported? Keep up the great work!
Great piece. I have a 350 & weigh 165 so the suspension is excellent as is. However the other mods will be a great roadmap to follow as I make it work better for my purposes. Thanks
Great idea magnetic swingarm guards. I wish they also made magnetic engine cases guards: I’d rather remove them at each wash to avoid corrosion under them, but I’m very weary of keep removing the engine case bolts, as they’re easy to strip and leave you with a serious problem on your hands.
@@40020287 non ho ancora preso nulla, ma andrei per la Husky sulla base che 500 puoi usare anche per rally, e il linkage è preferibile per quella applicazione. I freni sono ancora un dubbio, lo ammetto.
@@40020287 non ho ancora preso niente, ma alla fine penso sceglierei la 501 per curiosità sul linkage, che è preferibile in attività tipo rally. Certo i freni restano un problema. Ma a dirla tutta continuo ad avere ripensamenti: ho una 350 e alla fine sostituirla con una 500 ha pro e cons, e non sono certo che faccia sufficiente differenza per valere lo sforzo e il disborso. Al contrario, prendere una 2T (da appaiare alla 350) aggiungerebbe una intera nuova dimensione, sto guardando alla Husky TE300 Pro, che tra l’altro ha freni e frizione brembo… costa quanto la 500…
How did you get the Acerbis swingarm guards to fit on the left hand side of the bike with the chain guide did you cut of the tab and not use the stretchy tab wasn’t sure how you did that in the video
Remove seat and tank, remove lower rear subframe bolts, loosen the top subframe, disconnected the exhaust midway, and the airbox snorkel then lift the whole back subframe there’s the shock.
Actually, I think you just put it on a stand, take out the rear wheel and you can take it straight out. On my 500 EXC-F with PDS (no linkage) you don't even need to take out the wheel. Just top and bottom bolt and it comes straight out.
Going to look at a 2024 501s today. Anyone know what the weight limit is for the new subframe? Im wanting to do my own ADV build on the bike and I need to be able to safely haul about 30-35lbs of gear. This includes tools, fuel and camping gear.
If that aftermarket oil filter is just a magnet, there is all kinds of other debris in the oil besides magnetic ferrous metals - so it won't filter out anything that's not magnetic. Best thing to do is to use an efficient filter combined with a magnetic drain plug - like the factory setup already has.
I like that you ve got some smarts to actually assemble the lighting harness on your bench before just installing parts abd trying to figure it out as you go.. I guess if you’re a al pro shop type guy you can do it however , but for normal everyday garage wrench turner and wire. Stripper , seeing the whole picture and I even use an extra battery to test to be sure everything does what it’s supposed to
In California don't the turn signals need to be 9" apart? Plus from distance how can you tell left or right without the center being solid to separate.
If you trim the stock chain guard with a dremel tool, you can fit a 15 tooth front sprocket which is much easier to swap out than a 45 tooth rear sprocket. Assuming you have enough slack in your chain. Adds about 5mph to comfort speed.
Curious what others think about skid plates that have very little venting for the engine. The KTM/Husq oem skid plate has a lot of large vents in front and on bottom. These bike run hot and with the exhaust pipe wrapped with a heat shield combined with a skid plate that has minimum venting at best would defeat the purpose of keeping the engine as cool as possible, primarily in slow technical terrain.
GEL INNERSOLES make a huge difference to the footpeg vibes. Mako 360 with a pair of progrip 786's will sort the bar vibe. Urmosi bar clamp is also great.
Sounds stupid, but it’s so nice to hear you just laughing from the excitement of riding the bike. That’s the feeling I got when we moved house and had trails right on the door step. I need a 501s now 🤔
As crazy as it sounds i'm seriously considering turning my 2022 KTM 300 TPI into a small trip ADV bike! Building these minimilistic light travel machines seems to be gaining traction
I have a 501S and it vibrates like crazy at anything above 50mph, also have a 350S and there are almost no vibrations with that bike, I have to figure something out with the 501 as I almost never ride it now cause of the vib’s. Your build/bike looks amazing.
i've seen when people have a bigger tank , they look for a slope or asreep bit of ground and drive so that the frony=t wheel is way p at waist height. That way some fuel flows in to the other part of the tank. you'll have to try by running it right down. It may be the way.
Fun build! You might want to look at the Puig bikini fairing to make it more comfortable for the road. I had one on my 701 and really liked it. I put a Rade garage rally fairing on later but the Puig was really better on the road.
I install an excellent $65AUD windscreen from Aliexpress on my 500. Many would think it’s too tall but it’s an excellent compromise, easily adjustable, looks good and should come off without damage in a fall.
What front tire are you running? What size tires are you running? Did you pull off the vapor catch system and install the taco smog kit? I just got a 501s 2024
I'm still unsure if the best performance dual sport base is the 350 or the 500. My ideal garage would have a 300 2stoke, a 350 or 500 exc, and a norden 901. For that performance dual sport in the middle, would you go with a 350 or a 500?
Don't get me wrong I'm just like you and love this build but I always get a reality check that changing everything on a bike is not gonna make me a better rider. I should just go out and practice more on the stock stuff haha. Upgrading is definitely half the fun though!
Hey Ian, love the video! What Acerbis fuel tank did you purchase? The Acerbis website says the fitment for the aftermarket tanks are only for the 20-23 KTM/Huskie’s.
Hey Ian, I don't know if you remember your 2022 500 EXCF enough to compare its suspension with this new husky? I'm contemplating revamping my entire KTM 2022 suspension, with lucky cartridges up front, and maybe their national shock in the back to the tune of over $4,000. It's tempting to just sell my 2022 530 EXCF or trade it in towards the 2024, either husky or KTM. Wondering if you can remember enough to compare the suspension you now have versus the suspension on your 2022 KTM?
Thanks for the input! When I run the numbers, it would cost me an additional seven or eight or even $9,000 by the time I brought a new bike up to par with my current bike with the seats and armor, lighting, and I still have just a 2024 stock suspension. For 4K I have all that and a top-notch aftermarket tuned suspension
Stay Tuned - phase II and III of the build coming in May and June!
✔FE501S Build✔
⚡With major support from..
..Taco Moto Co tacomoto.co/?ref=fi6gv640 and ..
..Rocky Mountain ATV/MC bit.ly/33kgRIz
➕Phase 1➕
⚡Frontline Suspension: frontlinesuspension.com/
⚡P3 Carbon Heat Shield: tinyurl.com/bdduk57w
⚡Seat Concepts Element XL Seat: seatconcepts.com/
⚡Molecule Motorsports Skid Plate: tinyurl.com/yzwnrx4z
⚡Doubletake Mirrors: bit.ly/3F8m4lV
⚡Heated Grip Kit: tinyurl.com/yea664se
⚡Mosko Moto Reckless 10 and 40: bit.ly/3p6CmHz
⚡Mosko Moto Gnat Bar Bag: bit.ly/3oTJMOx
⚡Motoz Tractionator IT and ST Tires: pacificpowersports.com/ USE CODE BRM2024
⚡4mm Severe Duty Tubes: tinyurl.com/mt4wfub2
⚡Wheel Weights: tinyurl.com/2y6ds5xf
⚡Tusk Rim Locks: tinyurl.com/ysswttd9
⚡Acerbis Fuel Tank: tinyurl.com/yybkbucd
⚡Taco Moto Oil Filter: tinyurl.com/4w2fhy7h
⚡Golan Fuel Filter: tinyurl.com/3b74fd7b
⚡Taco Tail Tidy and Signals with Enduro Plate: tinyurl.com/4a5tz4c6
⚡Acerbis Swingarm Guards: tinyurl.com/44a9ssh7
⚡Acerbis Fork Bottom Guards: tinyurl.com/7xe59h64
⚡Front Rotor Guard (upgrade): tinyurl.com/2wyky8zb
⚡Tusk Rear Rotor Guard: tinyurl.com/5fjn3bwz
⚡STR Fork Bleeders: tinyurl.com/bdh4cw7u
➕Tools/Shop➕
⚡Motool Slacker Suspension Tuner: tinyurl.com/4pnkzcea
⚡Tusk Balancing Stand: tinyurl.com/yyzpej72
⚡Rabaconda Tire Changer: tinyurl.com/2j22c76t
⚡Tusk Scissor Lift: tinyurl.com/4hvdhckx
⚡Tusk Oil Change Kits: tinyurl.com/y457nham
⚡Cordless Ratchet: amzn.to/3HRWALc
⚡Nitrile Gloves: tinyurl.com/ms8vevza
⚡Tusk Tire Gauge: tinyurl.com/3jtah74d
➕SUPPORT➕
[I may receive commissions which are invested back into the channel]
⚡ Patreon: www.patreon.com/bigrockmedia
⚡ Rocky Mountain ATV/MC: bit.ly/33kgRIz
⚡ Revzilla: imp.i104546.net/6bxxXN
⚡ Mosko Moto: moskomoto.com/bigrockmoto
⚡ Pacific Powersports (Motoz Tires, Barkbusters): pacificpowersports.com/ USE CODE BRM2024
⚡ 3D Cycle Parts: www.3dcycleparts.com/?aff=3
⚡ Taco Moto : tacomoto.co/?ref=fi6gv640
⚡ Cyclops Adventure Sports: tinyurl.com/2kaknpfn
⚡ Amazon: amzn.to/3viGZ0A
⚡ Merchandise: big-rock-moto.myspreadshop.com/
Keep this build going!
Could you compare the xact suspension with the 890 xplor and xplor pro stuff? After getting a second set of wheels for my 890, I'll be looking to put all new suspension on my 890 s. I'm between waiting for used set of xplor pro stuff, tractives +40mm for the stock 43mm suspension, or possibly go nuts & figure out how to fit xact pro stuff on.
How did you get the Acerbis swing arm guards to fit on the left hand side of the bike with out removing the chain guard the tab hits the guide did you have to cut it of or what
You going to sell this. Lol. Let me know...
I have an FE501S.
MANDATORY 3 in 1 MOD.
1. EURO AIR INTAKE
2. ECU
3. EXHAUST
You cannot do only one or only two. You must do all 3.
Stock, the engine has Asthma. It cannot breathe because of the Reed valve. Do not waste your time or energy trying to modify the stock Air Intake. Eliminate it. The Stock EURO Air Intake tube is a straight hollow tube. No more air restriction.
When you do that, you just made the engine tune too lean. Hence, the new ECU with proper tunes pre programmed for you to choose from.
Mod 3, uncork it so it can eliminate all that air and fuel with a performance exhaust.
A performance ECU demands more air and an unrestricted exhaust.
I have the Euro Intake, a Vortex ECU and a Yoshimura Exhaust.
It’s a beast. The throttle snaps. No more flame outs. Throttle performance is now instant. It does what I want it to do when I want it to do it. When it was stock, throttle response had a delay. I’d throttle…….and wait. No more.
My Vortex has a tune available for elevations over 3,000 ft. to correct for less air density at higher elevations.
Unfortunately, the FE501S, has a different wiring harness than the FE501.
The FE501 has a factory MAP switch. I know this because I tried, but there is no way to attach the factory MAP switch into the FE501S.
The only thing I need to do is install the Vortex MAP switch which will allow me to switch to a second MAP tune with the flip of the switch. I plan to use the Higher Elevation tune for position 2 since I have mountains nearby.
I love my FE501S. I have also done the suspension, cone valves etc., the Acerbis.
Consider Sicass front and rear blinkers. My Sicass handguards have the front blinkers integrated into them.
Enjoy!
Or save 3k and buy 450 xcfw
The evolution of this bike is the one I’ve wanted to see the most. 🤘🤘🤘
I always love the look on the wife’s face when she walks into the shop and I have the bike in pieces. 😳
Man what an awesome thumbnail!
Dork in the Road, Vice President of Photographic Services
How does the magnetic filter out non magnetic particles (aluminum, copper, gasket sealant and etc)?
Exactly, and non magnetic particles still block up oil galleries etc
The tacomoto product page for the filter says that non-ferrous materials are also caught via static adhesion and entrapment, and at smaller particle sizes than a paper filter can catch. Kinda questionable for the larger non-ferrous stuff but who knows
I wouldn’t trust it
Really enjoyed this style of video Ian. Always enjoy your content but these types of videos are a refreshing to see. Super rad build.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome video! I love these builds. It’s amazing the difference your modifications have made. Beautiful bike for sure. Best!
I'd still prefer a physical oil filter, then stick a high strength magnet on top of the drain bolt, or just inside the case. Not all engine parts are (strongly) magnetic.
Hmm that was my same thought, I really didn't like the look of it but after looking at their product page I kind of like the idea, it seems to catch more material, much finer material, you can clean it super regularly too and it doesn't slow down oil at all at start up which is a massive bonus. I think if you were to run something for 10,000km without a filter change you should go paper but for a dirt bike or bike where you are willing to pop it out and clean it a couple times throughout oil fill life this would be much better I think, much to my surprise.
They have tests and 18.5% of solids the rod collected were "Dust, dirt, sands" i.e. "dirt from outside world and silica from clutch pads." 33% iron and 44% carbon, they seems to be collecting everything I want it too and evenly enough.
For the high cost of performance motorcycles, one would think that you could order one set up at the factory for your weight + expected weight of all accessories. At least a selection of different spring/valve rates that would be within a range of maybe 5 lbs plus or minus of a riders desired combined weight.
@12:30 - FYI: a magnetic filter will only remove ferrous metals, however most of the metals used in the engine are NOT magnetic (lead, copper & zinc are used in the bearing shells; aluminum and stainless are also used on various other engine components... none of these metals will stick to a magnet)...bottom line, I would stick with a disposable paper filter.
FYI: I have university degree in mechanical engineering (I did my senior thesis on tuned exhaust in 2-stroke engines - including cutting, rolling and welding my own expansion chambers) so I know far more about engines and engine design than the average person.
Agree, plus the price of that filter is about the same as the price of 40 OEM paper cartridges here in South Africa - so 600 hours of oil changes before it makes financial sense.
Thank you for pointing that glaring oversight out.. Ian has become a schill for his sponsors, this episode is all about Taco Moto Co..
You did see that there was a secondary screen filter as part of the system, right? Any of the non-ferrous particulates too small to get caught in that are too small to do any damage anyway. Especially taking into account the average lifespan of these motors. If you were trying to get 300k miles out if it then yes you would want to filter much better to avoid fine abrasion wear that could occur over a long time, but for what they are and what they do this filtration system is more than adequate.
Can't really claim the micron improvement when you're missing everything but ferrous metals smaller than the screen though.
screen filters aren’t nearly as good as paper. This product is snake oil and dangerous to your engine
Awesome job Ian, I can't wait to see the final result. In all sincerity, once finished it will be awesome, but still dirt focused, just a bit less so, but at great cost. Why can't manufacturers produce a good 50:50 bike out of the box? For me, the only goldilocks adv bikes that I can think of are the new RE Himalayan, and the old CCM GP450.
Glad to see your promotion...excellent...ha!!!
We have to love Toco Mike and his excellent parts and service. By the way, I spent last month in northern Baja with my 500. I installed the 140/80-18 Motoz Tractionator Enduro S/T Rear (not I/T) on the rear and loved it. We got a lot more rain and mud than planned, and this tire was great in both the mud and deep sand. The Motoz front was out of stock locally, so I put the Michelin Enduro Medium Front Tire in 90/100-21. This tire also worked very well in the mud, sand, and rocky trails. I think I am now an official fatty convert.
I am keen to see and hear about your experiences with this tire combo.
Thanks, Ian for that amazing content that is a lot of upgrades to that bike. I mean, he almost changed the bike around. I love the fact you’re able to accessorize and personalize the bike to your taste. Love the tail tidy the shocks.🎉
great finishing ride the chuckles and glee is what it all about.
It's fun hearing you laughing! It is the feeling all we get from riding off road. Thanks for your videos
Just think, in 6 months he will sell this fantastic bike. I’m convinced that my modified 18 500 is my best option, even better than my 690 for my type of use. Nothing beats a 45kg weight reduction. Re gearing, I’ve run 15/42 for easy dirt riding and it can easily do it.
What a great dual sport/enduro. Really impressive!
So I understand the value of the filter for metal particles that are magnetic. What about the non-magnetic particles? Brass, aluminum, etc…
Exactly my thought. I’ve learned to be suspicious of these genius aftermarket ideas, they often turn out half baked and half broken…
I am not 100% sure about this theory, but hear me out:
While there are undeniably several parts in every modern engine which aremade out of non-magnetic material (aluminum, magnesium etc), maybe the logic here is: all parts that are actually in contact with another moving part and are therefore subjected to abrasion (bearings, gears, piston rings..) are always made out of steel.
If that is the case, then there should never be any nonmagnetic particles in the engine oil (???).
I can't really believe that the guys who developed this magnetic filter didn't think about this very basic question.
@@chukku2175 yes, but that there are no non metallic debris floating around in the oil is clearly false. Perhaps you can argue that they won’t make damage?
The tacomoto product page for the filter says that non-ferrous materials are also caught via static adhesion and entrapment, and at smaller particle sizes than a paper filter can catch. Kinda questionable for the larger non-ferrous stuff but who knows
Every time in interested in a bike you release videos about them, already bought a Transalp
I’m so glad you are doing this series! Our bikes are very similar. Hopefully I’ll get mine at the Dusty Lizard! I have the Mako360 and a Cush drive rear hub to hopefully lessen the vibration. I also have the Rekluse. I was on the fence with the Rekluse but after putting one on my 890 I wanted one on the 501, it makes a huge difference for me. I’m happy to see you like the suspension work! I honestly believe it’s such a good investment, for me anyway. If it keeps me off the ground one time it’s paid for itself many times over! Keep up the excellent content!
I got a 2016 501 and what really changed everything for me was a cush hub rear wheel. Any LC4 wheel will fit plug and play.
I just tried 15/50 Gearing and it worked quite well on the highway but was a little long for some woods riding.
Different gearbox ratios by the sound of it.
What is the the benefit of a cush hub on that bike if using off road?
@@alexandre8598 Not much as the dirt allows slip on throttle and gear changes . On road though those shocks go straight to the gearbox as there is no tyre slip. If you are going to keep the bike for a while and rack up the km's it would be better to run a cush drive to reduce the wear to thoose components . If you have ever driven a 4x4 with locking diffs its a bit the same.
@@alexandre8598
For me one key benefit is that you can ride the bike in much lower rpm. That helps with vibrations and also makes it less exhausting
Definitely dig those front signals. 😊
Not sure about the rear, though. Looks like it might not indicate turn direction clearly enough. 😮
you're right, but regular signals will break off, so you're stuck with it I guess
can you solve or get information about how to use the deeper fuel by the fuel pump in new big tank?
You keep me to busy with your’s great job 😂😎
Good vid for those who have necer set up a bike it's likw a whole new machine made for you. Yes a Scott's is in need. Hat off to RTW PAUL who rides a similar KTM 2015 model or so. The vibes would do me in but a great bike none the less
The previous generation had wider ratio gearing and a tad taller 6th gear, and the reason is that the newer generation gearbox casing is the same as the 350s to save on weight, so they carried over the gearbox ratios as well. I love your videos Ian.
My dream bike build is this one I love all your builds ❤️🙏
I just took my rear shock out last night. I took off the 4 subframe bolts and was able to pull through the top without removing the swing arm by sliding the subframe toward the air box.
Personally I would want separate blinkers on the rear. I know the integrated light is more compact, but someone behind you would not be able to tell that was a blinker or which way you were turning if they did think it was a blinker. I would be afraid of getting run over from behind with only that light.
I agree. The brake light/tail light he installed is not DOT rated and is dangerous for the riders safety for being so small. Also if someone runs into the back of you the lawyers will use it against you on both sides of the litigation.
Those turn cignals are absolutely useless
The debates in the comments are entertaining so I hope they don't get you down Ian. This is an excellent video, and even though we the average person may not be able to afford all of it, it's still good to know what these terrific small business entrepreneurs are developing and making available. I appreciate your support of said businesses and getting the information about them and their products to we riders of all types . You're successfully doing this and making a living at it, so that does make you a subject matter expert regardless of some opinions which are a small vocal minority. I appreciate what they and even Ben have to say (just teasing Dork, I watch your videos too). We out here recognize what your audience is (us) and (as stated above) appreciate some "shilling" (if one must insist on calling it that). If you didn't, how would we know and how would we support these businesses that richly deserve to be supported? Keep up the great work!
Thank you
I usually take the subframe off to access the rear shock for most bikes...removing the swingarm works too.
We'll see if Ben can keep up with you on his Rally now. 😁
Been waiting on this 1️⃣
Wow that’s an impressive build up.
That magnetic filter seems like a massive gimmick. It's not going to filter non-ferrous metals, gasket material..
Great piece. I have a 350 & weigh 165 so the suspension is excellent as is. However the other mods will be a great roadmap to follow as I make it work better for my purposes. Thanks
Awesome build dude! Goes hard!
Great idea magnetic swingarm guards. I wish they also made magnetic engine cases guards: I’d rather remove them at each wash to avoid corrosion under them, but I’m very weary of keep removing the engine case bolts, as they’re easy to strip and leave you with a serious problem on your hands.
Alla fine che hai preso tra EXC500 e FE501? Avevo letto il tuo commento al video di GetDirt e sono indeciso come eri tu :D
@@40020287 non ho ancora preso nulla, ma andrei per la Husky sulla base che 500 puoi usare anche per rally, e il linkage è preferibile per quella applicazione. I freni sono ancora un dubbio, lo ammetto.
@@40020287 non ho ancora preso niente, ma alla fine penso sceglierei la 501 per curiosità sul linkage, che è preferibile in attività tipo rally. Certo i freni restano un problema. Ma a dirla tutta continuo ad avere ripensamenti: ho una 350 e alla fine sostituirla con una 500 ha pro e cons, e non sono certo che faccia sufficiente differenza per valere lo sforzo e il disborso. Al contrario, prendere una 2T (da appaiare alla 350) aggiungerebbe una intera nuova dimensione, sto guardando alla Husky TE300 Pro, che tra l’altro ha freni e frizione brembo… costa quanto la 500…
How did you get the Acerbis swingarm guards to fit on the left hand side of the bike with the chain guide did you cut of the tab and not use the stretchy tab wasn’t sure how you did that in the video
Remove seat and tank, remove lower rear subframe bolts, loosen the top subframe, disconnected the exhaust midway, and the airbox snorkel then lift the whole back subframe there’s the shock.
Actually, I think you just put it on a stand, take out the rear wheel and you can take it straight out. On my 500 EXC-F with PDS (no linkage) you don't even need to take out the wheel. Just top and bottom bolt and it comes straight out.
Much easier way actually. I have done this on a new KTM.
Going to look at a 2024 501s today. Anyone know what the weight limit is for the new subframe? Im wanting to do my own ADV build on the bike and I need to be able to safely haul about 30-35lbs of gear. This includes tools, fuel and camping gear.
Got the mako 360 on my 501 24 with the purple poly it’s improved greatly
Going to take it to Kennedy meadows, going to do the Nevada BDR with it?
What size bolt did you use after removing the bushing to eliminate the auto retracting side stand?
The rear shock wont come up thrugh the seat air box area?
If that aftermarket oil filter is just a magnet, there is all kinds of other debris in the oil besides magnetic ferrous metals - so it won't filter out anything that's not magnetic. Best thing to do is to use an efficient filter combined with a magnetic drain plug - like the factory setup already has.
How does a magnetic oil filter capture dust particles? Asking for a friend.
I like that you ve got some smarts to actually assemble the lighting harness on your bench before just installing parts abd trying to figure it out as you go.. I guess if you’re a al pro shop type guy you can do it however , but for normal everyday garage wrench turner and wire. Stripper , seeing the whole picture and I even use an extra battery to test to be sure everything does what it’s supposed to
In California don't the turn signals need to be 9" apart? Plus from distance how can you tell left or right without the center being solid to separate.
If you take the whole exhaust off you can get the rear shock thru the opening
If you trim the stock chain guard with a dremel tool, you can fit a 15 tooth front sprocket which is much easier to swap out than a 45 tooth rear sprocket. Assuming you have enough slack in your chain. Adds about 5mph to comfort speed.
Curious what others think about skid plates that have very little venting for the engine. The KTM/Husq oem skid plate has a lot of large vents in front and on bottom. These bike run hot and with the exhaust pipe wrapped with a heat shield combined with a skid plate that has minimum venting at best would defeat the purpose of keeping the engine as cool as possible, primarily in slow technical terrain.
GEL INNERSOLES make a huge difference to the footpeg vibes. Mako 360 with a pair of progrip 786's will sort the bar vibe. Urmosi bar clamp is also great.
Sounds stupid, but it’s so nice to hear you just laughing from the excitement of riding the bike. That’s the feeling I got when we moved house and had trails right on the door step.
I need a 501s now 🤔
Flexbars are amazing!! Says old guy.
As crazy as it sounds i'm seriously considering turning my 2022 KTM 300 TPI into a small trip ADV bike! Building these minimilistic light travel machines seems to be gaining traction
Can I get a link to the led front turn signals with running light?
Can't wait to see the next part of the 501 built. Anything coming up on the new 4 doors jeep and not the gladiator ?
didn't see the nice blue chain adjuster blocks on the bike....were they not used? Great build and look forward to see the complete set up finished.
Comparison video to q Crf450RL?
“Big Rock Moto” is now “Big Rock Taco Moto”
Ouch but true!
Crazy that the suspension could still need work. I thought these were supposed to have top tier from factory.
I have a 501S and it vibrates like crazy at anything above 50mph, also have a 350S and there are almost no vibrations with that bike, I have to figure something out with the 501 as I almost never ride it now cause of the vib’s.
Your build/bike looks amazing.
I prefer the 350 for this reason
Looking good, I'm curious to know what the weight of the build is ready to ride.
Nice build!
i've seen when people have a bigger tank , they look for a slope or asreep bit of ground and drive so that the frony=t wheel is way p at waist height. That way some fuel flows in to the other part of the tank. you'll have to try by running it right down. It may be the way.
Fun build! You might want to look at the Puig bikini fairing to make it more comfortable for the road. I had one on my 701 and really liked it. I put a Rade garage rally fairing on later but the Puig was really better on the road.
I install an excellent $65AUD windscreen from Aliexpress on my 500. Many would think it’s too tall but it’s an excellent compromise, easily adjustable, looks good and should come off without damage in a fall.
these are on sale in texas right now for between 8 and 9 thousand..
Great video 😊
Good time to grease the rear linkage and steering head bearings
Great bike and build. Question with the vibrations, do you feel them in the hands and feet while on dirt or only highway driving? Thanks
What bar mounts did you use for the double take mirrors? Awesome Build!
How much was the shock work if you don't me asking?
What stops the non magnetic shit going round your motor and blocking up an oil passage?
Why change to this fuel tank if you cannot gain added mileage out of the tank capacity?
What size fuel tank?
What’s your opinion on the 3 inch double take mirrors? Recommend it or the 6 inch version it’s a better choice?
What front tire are you running? What size tires are you running? Did you pull off the vapor catch system and install the taco smog kit? I just got a 501s 2024
Random but the "SendIt" on the fairing reminds me exactly of the SubWay logo the way its white then yellow.
That's the point xD
If I was going to do 15 percent on road and the rest on double track, would you recommend the 350 or 500? Thanks Roland
500
Nice build. Any need for radiator guards?
@BigRockMoto just FYI there is a recall on that starter/kill switch
I'm still unsure if the best performance dual sport base is the 350 or the 500. My ideal garage would have a 300 2stoke, a 350 or 500 exc, and a norden 901. For that performance dual sport in the middle, would you go with a 350 or a 500?
I prefer the 350. Smoother, less vibration
Can I call dibs now for when you eventually have to "regrettably sell it"?
When we will see you on a AJP PR7 gold edition?
Don't get me wrong I'm just like you and love this build but I always get a reality check that changing everything on a bike is not gonna make me a better rider. I should just go out and practice more on the stock stuff haha. Upgrading is definitely half the fun though!
Think I’m gonna buy this bike this month
Man, do you ever sleep? I liked the video, thank you.
My B&S didn't even have a magnetic drain plug, but it didn't have a integrated transmission.
The Truenorthmotos wiring and switch kits are far superior to that Sicass switch.
Great
Is the klx sold?
Hey Ian, love the video! What Acerbis fuel tank did you purchase? The Acerbis website says the fitment for the aftermarket tanks are only for the 20-23 KTM/Huskie’s.
they do have one for the 2024. check IMS as well
I see you went to the coffin shaped double-take mirrors. Do you like those better than the enduro round ones? Im on the fence between the two.
Yes much better
Does it make you faster ?
And the price was ?
The conveyor belt of bikes keeps on turning at BRM.
Hey Ian, I don't know if you remember your 2022 500 EXCF enough to compare its suspension with this new husky? I'm contemplating revamping my entire KTM 2022 suspension, with lucky cartridges up front, and maybe their national shock in the back to the tune of over $4,000. It's tempting to just sell my 2022 530 EXCF or trade it in towards the 2024, either husky or KTM. Wondering if you can remember enough to compare the suspension you now have versus the suspension on your 2022 KTM?
The stock setup is decent, but not nearly as good as a tuned suspension from the previous gen.
Thanks for the input! When I run the numbers, it would cost me an additional seven or eight or even $9,000 by the time I brought a new bike up to par with my current bike with the seats and armor, lighting, and I still have just a 2024 stock suspension. For 4K I have all that and a top-notch aftermarket tuned suspension