Let’s see whether I speak for the group: We love the good sound information you share and your good wholesome demeanor sir. Long live your channel and you.
How refreshing to listen/watch a mature educational discussion about reloading. No blasting music; no "What's happening, Dude!' crap. Thanks, Ol' Scout!. Really enjoyable.......
Absolutely! A man who simply talks and gives good advice without acting like a 3-year-old hyper wild kindergartener while shoving his face right up into the camera like a j@ck@ss! I love this fella here.
Congratulations on breaking 200k!GunBlue490 is hands-down, my favorite 'guntuber'. No one serves up a lesson like this gentleman. Furthermore, his knowledge and proficiency is unmatched. He truly loves what he does.
I’m still working on a single stage press, even for 9mm and 223. Your videos on reloading and pistol shooting have been extremely helpful. Thanks for being willing to share your knowledge and experience.
I use a lee 1000 for 45acp, an O frame lee for rifles, and a C frame for small pistol rounds. I don’t make a crazy amount of rounds so I’ve had no need to upgrade from any of the single stages either.
@ right there with you. I make batches of 100-250 depending on caliber. I Couldn’t afford to shoot my revolvers without reloading and couldn’t match my reloads accuracy with factory 9mm ammo. The single stage still handles both.
I’ve been listening to his videos for years. He’s one of the best out there. An acquaintance is currently writing a piece about “GunTube” channels on RUclips for The NY Times. He’s a former Marine Infantryman. He writes fair and unbiased pieces. I told him to take a look at GunBlue to see the mature side of this hobby/passion.
Dear Sir; Your video on reloading is spot on! I have been reloading since I was 16 years old. I am now 71 and stareing 72 in the face. Started with a LEE set that was nothing more than a hammer in and out using a hard plastic pounder! the powder scoop was just the same as you showed. By 19 years old, I had grown to a RCBS Rock Crusher which still is in use. this all started with an old 8 X 57 war surplus rifle my Father bought me from Montgomery Wards for I believe $49.00. I now load for a dozen rifle and pistol cartriges, ranging from 25-06 to 378 Weatherby.Bless you for keeping it simple and honest! Sincerely Bruce in Weatern Wastongton
Almost my complete set up is from Lee. All of my dies, case prep, and my press which is the simplest least expensive c press you can buy. I have several manuals but again I prefer the Lee manual not only because of the excellent load data but it contains a wealth of information and interesting reading. On a side note my Lee manual has the cover on it upside down so if I'm reading from it around someone who isn't aware it causes some funny looks. Great video!!!
Boy that semi progressive turret style is cool! I've been using a Lee Hand Press kit since 1984. Might need to make the jump into the modern era! Still using a 12 gauge Lee Loader for brass hulled blackpowder shotgun shells for my old Damascus hammer double.
Great video! One of the great things about reloading is the equipment is virtually indestructible in normal use. I started reloading for metallic cartridges in 1973. For shotshells in the early 60s. I still have the following equipment from my initial set up and it is still in daily use for some reloading... RCBS Jr. single stage press, Redding #2 scale, Ohaus Du-O-Measure (not cheap, even in 1973, but worth every penny), Forster case trimmer, RCBS dies for .30-06, .30-30, .38 Special/.357 Magnum, .45 ACP. I now handload for 81 different cartridges, and have added many more pieces of equipment. But it was relatively painless doing it over the past 50+ years. Since I load small quantities of many different cartridges, the singe stage RCBS Jr. press is used for that. I added a progressive press for the cartridges I load a lot of, and a Lyman Orange Crusher for handling LONG cases like the .375 H&H and .45 -110 - 2-7/8". Not everyone needs those. Best of all...have fun!
I bought a Lee hand press about 12 years ago because I wasn’t sure how much I would get into reloading. Since then I’ve reloaded around 85,000 rounds, and the hand press is still going strong. This is also good for those folks who don’t have a lot of space due to its portability.
Sir I have just come across your channel, I must say you have away of spelling out just how and what is needed to becoming a great reloader. And what one can expect in costs. Thank you for your time along with your knowledge of reloading. You are just soooo down to earth when talking. You remained me of grandfather, he had that same way of talking . Again it's people like yourself who is so badly needed to help keep reloading alive. To show its not rocket science. Or something to be afraid of. To pass along knowledge to beginners. Thank you soooooo very much sir, may God bless you and yours.
Been reloading a couple of years now, don’t get into it to save money, seems that you shoot more so any savings go out the window. It is a fascinating and rewarding hobby and I find it relaxing. I love the case prep and trying new bullets and powders. Great video sir.
I’ve read that a person starts out reloading to save money but enjoys reloading so much that they end up shooting more so that they can reload more. Either way it’s a win win
In the Lee manual, on page 37, it states: "Bullets seated deeper than normal will reduce case capacity and increase pressure. This is not too critical for large rifle cases, but extremely important for pistol loads. Good load data specifies bullet seating depth or over all cartridge length. Do not seat the bullet to deep. On page 96, of the Lee manual, under the section of “The Latest Information On Pressure”, it states: "2) the extreme expansion (XTP and Gold Dot) handgun bullets have a large and deep nose cavity that makes them longer than a regular bullet of the same weight. This requires deeper depth resulting in higher pressure. Seating depth is very critical for handgun ammunition because of the small cases and large bores. ... … The usable volume of … … … the 45 ACP is 1.14cc. Seating bullets 1/16” deeper … .. … reduces the volume … 0.16cc for the 45 ACP. That’s ... ... ... a whopping 14% ... . This large volume reduction has an equally large effect on pressure that is made more critical because the maximum pressure for the 45 ACP is 1/3 of [plus 60,000 pound range as mentioned below. Keep in mind the 45 Colt working pressure is a mere 14,000 psi.] … On page 157, of Lee's manual under "Minimal Overall Length", It states: This is critical on most handgun cases. A small reduction in overall length can cause dangerous pressures because of reduced capacity caused by seating the bullet too deep. See details on page 96." On page 133, of the "Complete Reloading Guide", under "Loads For Handgun Cartridges", in bold font right under the heading it states: Loads for handguns ... with less case capacity ... when loading ... ... ... mere tenths of a grain of powder can make the difference between a good load and one that is dangerous. Approach the loading of handgun ammunition with these facts in mind." Plus on pages 88 thru 89, of the Lee manual, under "Signs Of Excessive Pressure" is a list of seven pressure signs and then the manual states the following: "It must be emphasized that these signs will not manifest themselves in ... low pressure rounds. These are signs of pressure in the plus 60,000 pound range. If you are loading for a gun designed to operate at 15,000 pounds pressure, you will most likely never find a loose primer because the gun would have blown up and spread the primer and gun parts over a wide area." And on page 158, of the Lee manual, in the section of “How To Read The Load Data”, under “XTP” it states : “Use these loads for the Hornady XTP, Speer Gold Dot, or Remington Golden Saber bullets. Now on page 270, of the Lee manual, under the “250 grain XTP” it gives load data with three different seating depths, because the data was taken from three different brand bullets, yet clumped together as if one. So if someone where to take the data developed for the shorter bullet and turn around and used it with the longer bullet they could very well raise pressures far above the 10% reduced starting charge weight. Especially if they use a case with smaller case capacity than that used in the development of the load data, as well as a hotter brand primer than that which was used to develop the data in the first place. Keep in mind that just changing the brand of primer can cause as much as a 2,000 psi rise in pressure alone, which can by itself swallow up the safety margin. Then throw in a case that has a reduced volume than the tested one and on top of all that seating the wrong bullet father in to the case, because it has a deeper hollow point and thicker cooper jacket, than what was used to developed the load data could easily displace the primer into one's own eye - so to speak. Or another way to put it would be as written in the book "Ammunition, Demystified" (page 17-18): War Stories #1 "I used loading data from one manufacturer for the equivalent weight bullet made by a different manufacturer. I picked a starting propellent load based on the projectile weight I was loading. I fired two previous shots without much apparent problem. After the third shot, imagine my surprise when I dropped the lock block on my Ruger no.1 and found the whole primer, cup and anvil, missing! I immediately ceased shooting that ammunition and rifle until I got the rifle taken apart, inspected for various and sundry loose metal pieces from the primer, and successfully put them back together. The ammunition was broken down, never to be fired in that particular arrangement again. I know I do not want to do that again! While the bullet weight is an important factor in selecting the powder type and weight for your firearm, the ability of the bullet to engrave by the rifling (think of friction and radial stiffness) also dramatically affects the peak pressure a given powder load will attain. Use only the loading data published by the bullet manufacture! Substitution of loading data for equivalent weight bullets can get you into deep yogurt!" And I know for a fact that other manuals have stated not to switch brands of bullets even if they are of the same type. I would post them here if I had the time to wade through 30 different manuals to find where they spoke of such, but I am tired just having to have dug up the above and below. One can head the warnings of reloading or not, but what ever they do they should not teach others to ignore them just because they might so choose. Again, the Richard Lee loading manual does not do pressure tests themselves, they only take test data from others that do and jumble it all together, of which they lose the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as bullet brand. And some 45 caliber bullets are .451" and some are .452" diameter. These are all important elements, as one should never take data made for one specific brand and type bullet and turn and use it with a different brand or type bullet. This is due to Brinell hardness and bearing surfaces can be different, as well as the shape can be slightly different with longer or shorter lengths, all of which can cause extremely high pressure issues. One should only use data straight from a reputable data source [see paragraph below] that does their own pressure testing which give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, and most of all the brand of the type bullet used in developing the data. Each one of these elements that are changed is a compromise of which if all are compromised at the same time could very well add up to a recipe for disaster. First off, I am not implying that Lee plagiarized the data in their manual, just that they jumbled data from different sources together and lost key elements in the doing. And it has always been a given that one should use the starting loads and work their way up. This 10% reduction covers for smaller bore diameters, different lots of powder, different brand/lots of primers, and different brands of cartridge cases. These alone can take up that 10% relatively easy. Especially in pistol cartridges, as a little goes a long way in such small volume chambers. And the .001" difference in diameter with a stiffer jacket can definitely cause pressure issues when it comes to using load data for one brand bullet [i.e. - the smaller one] and using it for another brand bullet e.g. - the larger one]. Lyman, Speer, Nosler, Sierra, Barnes, Swift, Berger, Norma, Lapua, VihtaVuori, Accurate, Western Powder, Hodgdon, or even Hornady reloading manuals are far better suited than Richard Lee's for gleaning load data from, as they all not only do their own testing but they all give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as the bullets brand and type for each load recipe. Lyman has most everyone's bullets and many powders too, so it is a good all around manual to get first. Then once one figures a particular bullet they want to use they should get the bullet manufacturer's manual, and try and get the powder manufacturer's manuals that they plan to use as well. Then as one decides to use other manufacturer's bullets and powders they should add these manuals as well. And Lyman also has a Cast Bullet reloading manual for those who wish to cast their own bullets. There are also other reloading manuals that do not pressure test their loading data and those should not be used for load data but can be used to glean information of the reloading process. So once one has all the powder and bullet manufacture's manuals they could continue to add these other manuals for the knowledge in the first half of them (only). Yet again Richard Lee's manual throws out one of the carnal safety rules of "never use load data developed for one brand of bullet for another brand of the same style bullet". Keep in mind that it is always better to throw out Richard Lee's manual than any of the safety rules. But with all that said Richard Lee's reloading manual has a wealth of knowledge in the front half that makes the book well worth having. Just do not ignore the Cautions, Warnings, and Nevers there within.
I'd like to add that I use primers and powder that I can buy local and are always in stock, even if they aren't ideal. For most people I would say get a digital scale and measure every charge until you get the feel of your powder measure. Cross reference a couple different sets of load data to make sure they agree. Keep notes in a notebook.
Ironically, many years ago as a total newbie I watched your videos where you set up and indexed a Lee progressive loader. I bought one and followed all your instructions and was off and running and still reloading today. I think I agree with you, however that some baby steps are advisable for most people.
If you want free loading trays, check the trash can at the range. Ammo boxed have that plastic tray you can use. One for 9mm works for several cartridges.
Another long time reloader here. This is an EXCELLENT video. A couple things to add: 1. Hornady pistol dies have a guide that aligns the bullet built in. For manual set ups, this is great. 2. Buying nitride treated dies is worth it. Harder metallurgy, and most importantly, for pistol, you don’t have to use lube on your cases when resizing 3. One more pro of Hornady is the quick change bushing system. Just like the Lee system shown in the video, only for each die on a single stage, it allows you to set up a die set how you want it, and then you’re all done. 4. Get yourself a set of calipers. Even at Harbor Freight the digital Pittsburgh one works surprisingly well compared to a $300+ set (I have both)
My Lee Value Turret press kit was bought 6 years ago. I use Lee dies. I've made about 20k rounds of a mix of 9mm, 38 Spec, 357, 45 acp, 10mm and 223 and still working great. I can safely make 150 to 200 pistol rounds per hour while visually monitoring each stage and weighing every 25 cartridge loads. I load rifle in stages without auto indexing. Most of my loads are midrange for range use and maximum accuracy for each gun. I did upgrade with a second scale, an Ohaus 505 to set the powder measure to desired charge. Ouaus makes the scales for everyone else, who charge extra for the paint and logo. However, the Lee scale that came with kit is very sensitive to very minor changes in charge, so I set it to match the Ohaus, and then I use it for periodic checking while loading. Only had one minor issue related to over crimping some Berry's plated bullets in one batch. Easy fix. I may be wrong, but believe my Lee 9mm bullet seater is 16 thread based in my testing. But then, I failed Calculus in college....
I worked in the firearms industry for 18 years. Sold reloading gear too. It was always the same from the rookie customer “don’t you just turn some dials and pull some levers?”. 😂
Thank you for another wonderful video. I’m in my 70’s and have been reloading for many years. I have always enjoyed watching your videos, as they are like an old friend discussing reloading with you. So many others these days feature hosts dressed in assault gear, screaming at you with a background of loud music. Over the years I have picked up many tidbits from you that have been a big help. I’ve always felt that reloading is a constant learning experience. I hope you will keep making your videos. Thank you for a job well done sir.
Ages ago I started with a Lee turret. I simply took the indexing rod out and ran it as a single stage. It worked well for me.. once i gained experience and comfort, I ran it as a turret
i viewed and re-viewed all your hand loading videos. I can't over emphasize how much help they were to me. With your advice I set up and used my equipment to reload several calibers and couldn't be happier. I really enjoy the simple pace of the press and I'm getting great results. Your advice on keeping it simple is priceless and kept me from being a bonehead buying 'over the top' expensive equipment. Two thumbs up and thanks again.
I had the Lee semi-progressive press similar to yours, liked it for for loading pistol cartridges but went back to the RCBS single stage press for everything else. For dies I would buy whatever was available at the best price. Slowly added components over the years, powder measure, scales, case trimmer ,hand priming tool and assorted other equipment as I needed and could afford it.
Excellent presentation as always. If you ever get the chance I’d like to see a presentation of the classic Lee loader all in one kits. That’s how I started reloading many years ago for my 30/30. I still use them from time to time just for nostalgia. I’ve shown a few people over the years how to use it and if you’re only loading for just one cartridge at low volume it’s fantastic. I believe it’s by far the most economical way for someone to get started. By the time they buy the kit, Lee trim set, funnel and loading block they are usually around $80 total in equipment. I’ll happily ship you a kit in the caliber of your choosing if you decide to or I’d just add the extra cash to my monthly patreon if you’d rather do it that way. Thank you
That's an excellent idea! Yes, my first reloading tool was a Christmas gift in 1964, a 16 gauge lee pocket loader for paper shotshells of the day. It worked terrific. So, I've been reloading longer than I thought!
@@GunBlue490 My dad had one of them back in the day that he used to reload the 16 gauge. I still have some of the blue paper shells that he reloaded for when we shot trap with my first shot gun .
So happy to see you again my friend This is a wonderful choice for a video. I have an interest in this subject and this information is priceless, as usual. Thank you soo much.
Been loading for years and use a Lee Challenger press (pre bushing). Still works great. I have all different brands of dies and my Lee dies produce excellent rounds. The cost of components has gotten so high that I have cut way back on my reloading but to get the most out of some rifles you have to.
10:29 "...Rock Chucker kit for $530 on sale..." Holy Moly! My Rock Chucker kit cost $200 on sale. It doesn't seem like so many years ago, either, certainly fewer than ten. 23:11 I found the Lee powder dippers to be remarkably consistent once I learned to use them. 33:24 If you can find one of those Lyman beam balances, you'll have a treasure.
I had a Dillon. Thing was really fast, too fast. I traded it and bought two singles. I enjoy handling each round. No need for speed. If you aren’t reloading you’re missing out. It’s a blast.
I bought a RCBS Rock Chucker Master Kit in 1975 and it's still in use BUT starting out today I would look for used equipment. There is so many good used pieces out there that can be purchased for pennies on the dollar compared to new it is crazy not to look into it. I just got my nephew started. A Lyman Spartan press was bought for 15 bucks, plenty strong for 223 and 9mm that he wanted. A set of Lyman All American dies found to be in perfect shape were 15 dollars each, a RCBS uniflow powder measure with short stand was another 20 and a new digital powder measure was 22 bucks with check weights. Miscellaneous parts like shell holders, primer pocket reformer/cleaner, a Hornady load manual, Lee trimmer kits and deburr tool, load blocks and the list goes on were maybe another 50. We built a load bench from some old framing lumber and topped it with some laminated kitchen counter, added lighting and wall shelving for storage and at the most it cost him 150 bucks and not only was he pleased with his new skills and cost savings but with the accuracy of his rounds produced. It goes without saying finding someone handy and experienced is critical, I have done it for many people over the years, currently I purchase equipment when I find it in good condition on the cheap. I just bought a RCBS RS press (forerunner to the Rock Chucker) like new for 25 bucks at a barn sale, just had to make the missing operating handle for it. Best part is if my nephew didn't take to the hobby he could peddle the whole set up for at least 200 bucks.
Great advice. I started loading in High School with just a RCBS Rock Chucker and beam scale and of course a set of dies. Soon found out that while I could sort of get by pouring powder from the scale pan into a 30-30 case, the 22-250 wasn't going to work. So, I got a powder funnel. They are so cheap I should have bought that right away anyhow. Next tool was a RCBS Powder dribbler because it was too tedious to try to use a spoon to put powder into the scale pan. I got pretty good at tilting the Dribbler so it would pour faster and then when the scale beam would jump, I'd sit the Dribbler back down flat and turn it slower until I got my correct powder charge. When I got a 44 Magnum revolver a year later, I got the RCBS Little Dandy powder dropper that uses the predrilled rotors. They are great for handguns but won't drop enough for most rifles. I didn't get an adjustable powder dropper until I finished college. That's when I got my 1st trimmer - a Forrester - that is really something you need sooner if you are loading bottle neck cartridges. It is definitely true that you don't need all the exotic tools some guys claim. Mostly they are trying to use money spent as a way to impress how much they know about reloading.
200k your definitely worth 5x that!!! My first and only reloading kit was a Lee Precision 50th anniversary. Midway had it at $160, dropped it to $140. They gave me a $20 birthday gift. So for $120 Ive been reloading using that system for about 7 years. Im no Eric Cortina, but I get 1/2" groups at 100 yards and under fairly consistently. I also purchased one of those $25 C style pressed from Lee to do alot of the dirty work, if you would. But Ive been very satisfied with them.
well 200 thousand of us appreciate what you do and have bothered to subscribe, been reloading for 30 years now- still learned something. i now know how to recrown a Barrell,,,😁😁
After 25+ years of hand loading, I purchased a Hornady A/P press. I was shooting more and needed a faster supply. My son and I shoot off apx 400 rounds at a session, so I needed a faster way to make up brass. My Rock Chucker is still mounted on the bench.
Greetings from Buenos Aires - Argentina. My humble suggestion: don´t worry about number of subscribers. Your experience is far more important. Regards ... !
A older gentleman, who was a plumber customer of mine, had several mec shot shell presses. We both saved lead and he had a shot machine. He took me to the skeet trap range, nice guy. He had a couple of strokes and couldn't shoot or reload anymore. He got mad at some of his shooting buddies, thought they Were trying to low ball him on his equipment. I came over one day and he tried to sell me his reloading equipment, I said I don't need it all, he said, aww hell, take it all I'm going to let you have it cheap! For around $200.00 I got four or five nice mec presses, top of the line scales, box full of extra parts, a bunch of lead and more.
I have several Lee deluxe sets, never had a problem. I have the Lee classic press and when I get a new die set, I also buy a new turret, that way I just switch the turrets out to change calibers.
While im not new to reloading, i still enjoyed this. My suggestion to reloading for money savings, reload based on current prices. 9mm may not be worth it currently but something like 44mag is. Also range brass and bullet casting can save a ton. Ive never paid for lead being a plumber and powder coat my bullets.
Best advice ever when he says “it’s never a waste of money to buy a single stage press”. I started with a Lee 4 hole turret press. It was great for loading plinking handgun or AR ammo. But 99% of the time, I have the indexing rod out of the press, and just use it as a single stage. If you’re hand loading accurate rifle ammo, a single stage is a must have. edit: just watched further into the video and saw you doing the same thing!!
Thanks for the great content ! Lee has recently released a micrometer top for $20 to add in 15:54 to any of the bullet seaters. As you stated, not necessary, but for $20 it’s a nice add on especially when working with different bullets. Thanks again
This is good Basic Information. I've been reloading since around 1969 .Back when I started I could load 100 rounds of .38 SPCL for $3.50 with my own Hard Cast Bullets. The Tip about keeping Distractions away is Very Important .Back in the late 1970's I Blew Up a Brand New Ruger Super Black Hawk because my Mother came in the Garage and started bothering me while I was Reloading .When I told her what happened she never bothered me again. She's passed away over 30 years ago. If you reload for AR15 or Ar10 or any Semi Automatic Rifle .I recommend sticking with Small Base Dies as Standard Dies don't always feed well. Also Buy a Case gauge for each caliber , and take careful notes. I like the Lee Factory Crimp Dies but if you have a Dillon Press do not use the Lee Factory Crimp in .357 Mag. The Dillon Shell Plate is thicker then RCBS , LEE , C-H or Lyman and you will break the Die ,I just wish Lee told you that in the ads it would have saved me a broken Die.
I began with a mixed set, including a turret press from Lyman and Forster's dies. However, I discovered that some Lee tools weren't as reliable. For instance, the cheapest powder measure didn't work for me, so I upgraded to a Hornady dispenser, which eventually broke. I then got an Autocharge Pro, which I absolutely love. However, what I do appreciate about Lee reloading equipment is their Deluxe Power Quick Trim. I've realized that different manufacturers excel in different areas, so it's important to choose the products that best suit your needs.
9:28 Extruded powder (IMR 4064) is a strong argument for a single stage press. Each granule is a long cylinder or “stick” and sometimes in a progressive press, it can jam in certain powder droppers, especially when loading narrow case mouths (like 22 caliber), resulting in alternating squib loads and double charges. You may see it spilling and/or feel it crunching in the works, but maybe not. With a single stage and loading block it is easy to visually verify if the powder in any cartridge doesn’t match the others.
Thank you for a clear outline of the reloading process which has had me apprehensive from the start. I can now move forward and get some equipment together and start reloading. Greetings from Australia!
Thanks for the info and tips , still using a 218 Bee so hand loading is about the only option when you can find them on the shelf sticker shock sets in .
been loading for over 25 years and have equipment from dillon, lee, rcbs. redding, hornady, hollywood, lyman and a few others. still load precision rifle ammo on my lee three hole turret press. never needed a more expensive press for rifle. i do use dillon presses for handgun ammo just because of volume. the single best piece of equipment in my inventory is my notebooks. keep info on everything i have reloaded - invaluable.
This gentleman is clearly very experienced and knowledgeable. For reloaders, Lee dies do make sense - they work, at minimal cost. However, when some of those beginner reloaders transition to becoming handloaders, Hornady dies - especially the bushing dies - are worth every penny. Forster dies are also quite nice, but after comparing the two (and some other brands), I personally prefer the Hornady design and its stellar machining. Frankly, I regret some of my Lee and RCBS die purchases and have been slowly replacing or augmenting those sets with Hornady equivalents, both the aforementioned bushing sizing dies and seaters. I do like the Lee powder-through die w/ powder measure for volume reloading, when efficiency is more important than accuracy (e.g., range practice ammo). The trusty old RCBS single stage press design is notably better than most others, at any price. That last statement would probably have outright angered Richard Lee, but the RCBS manufacturing tolerances, mechanical stability and collinearity result in ammo that is _measurably_ better. Plus, rock chuckers are overall, quite pleasant to use. I would never recommend a progressive to a new loader but I also wouldn’t recommend cheaping out on the single-stage either. Same goes for the scale. Get something you can *trust* . Anyway, that’s my 2¢.
I really like my Dillon presses... I have several other brand single stage units as well. They all work together. I got my free replacement parts from Dillon's no BS warranty today to fix my 50 year old Square Deal b. I really enjoy watching the rounds fall out of the press with each pull of the lever.
Almost 5yr on a lee 4 hole with sharpie marks all over my lee dies that can easily remove stuck cases which I imagine are a pain. problem I’ve not had to experience thanks to your advise. Ol hammer and decapper they peck right out. My only deal is the amount of lube I have to brush on with toothbrush. I’ve tried less and stick everytime so I paste it in and try to watch about dents. Loaded many thousands with great results but have dented a few. Use lee lube and try to stay with there products. Thanks a bushel for all the knowledge.✌🏻
Thanks GunBlue. Love your vids. I had to go back @9:40 you said it would cost $16.00 per round. I imagine you meant $1.60 per round. You almost talked me into buying factory loads He He!
I always feel like I’ve attended a first rate college course when I watch one of these videos. Though I think we’re also a subset of people who eat food.
For the digital scales this might be interesting to some based on where you roam: All those load cells in the use DC. Just like with other measuring tools, it can have influence on the output. What it reads is voltage and gives out a respective weight to it. So if you're aware of inconsistencies in voltage even more than usually and you're set to make some highly accurate bench rest or long range load, I'd go with a fresh battery or charge one and switch. If you're not doing that, just go with the outlet. It is far less of an hassle. The dial caliper is my favourite, making potential pressure on the workpiece visible. One that has an enclosed rack & pinion gives less chance for dirt ingress. I still have a digital one for quickly measuring differences. If one hasn't worked with calipers for quit a while, go watch detailed videos on how to use what surface and measuring failures. I think it was me asking for this video and it will save me quite some money. Thank you! The video has the perfect timing, a day after completing my reloading and muzzle loader course. Cost and paperwork aside, it was fun and we learned a lot to avoid some issues but it'll take a while.
100% Correct about Progressive Loaders for beginners. I had loaded at least 15 years before I got my 1st and only progressive. I can tell you that if you don't understand the process extremely well, when things start going wrong on one station of the press, you will get so focused on the immediate problem that you will crap it up elsewhere and end up with a total mess! Learn the basics and to be honest, very few people will benefit from a progressive unless you are a competitive handgun shooter. I put mine away and quit fooling with it. And I've been loading for nearly 50 years now.
Another excellent video! I have almost all the same equipment, or similar. Lee products have been my go to for years. Congratulations on reaching 200,000!
I would have to agree the lee dies are great! I have also used many different brands and now I only buy lee dies. Plus they have the best crimp die. A lot I my reloading stuff over the years have come second hand from my local gun shop when someone either gets out of the sport or passes away and their gear get brought into the shop. Cost saving is not an consideration for me although you do save a bit....it more of the enjoyment and accuracy you gain from reloading and working up loads. I find those lee powder scoops handy to get your powder thrower setup fast for a particular load. I also mounted a wood working vice to the end of my reloading bench which I have made seperate mounts for and use it as a quick release system for powder thrower ect. You simply use the vice as a clamp to mount anything securely to the bench as the wood workers vice sits flush to the bench and holds anything tight. Cheers
The Lyman All American 8 turret press gives you all the benefits of a single stage as well as the ability to have dies for different calibers all set up properly 😊😊😊…another is the LEE series of presses …their dies will last you a lifetime…for powder and primers I recommend checking out American Reloading, they have zero hazmat along with free shipping (they do charge sale tax)…I do recommend a reliable set of calipers though…I’ll agree 100% on the first reloading manual being a must buy (FREE reloading manuals are available from powder manufacturers). This gentleman knows his stuff 👍👍👍
Thanks so much, this hit the spot and was exactly what I needed. I knew you were the right guy to ask from the time I found your channel. Refreshing to get straight, no nonsense information. In my state they tax factory ammo at 20% but not components, so reloading will be an even greater savings now. Wish we were close so I could buy you a coffee and head to the range. Thanks again, this is so very much appreciated. GOD BLESS !!!
Hey Neighbor, good to see you. Love my Lee Classic Four Turret Press. I still use single stage Lee and RCBS for tasks I don't want to clutter up my Lee Four Hole Press. Love Lee Dies Sets too. One thing you really need are Reloading Manuals, you can never have enough of those, AND READ THEM! Still my favorite, Modern Reloading Second Edition by Richard Lee.
I really like your videos Sir. I've watched and learned something that I have never practiced before. Thank you. Very informative and educational videos.
I have 55 years of hand loading experience. I trust no progressive press to properly prime a case or powder charge a case. I do that by hand. All the other ammo loading processes like case sizing , case neck flaring, and bullet seating are done on progressive and turret presses. I load ammo in batches of 100 to 250 rounds. Progressives presses and turret presses do speed up my method of reloading . Especially with the addition of case and bullet feeders.
Barnes have load data on their homepage. So if you know your bullet check if the manufacturer has free data before you buy a book. The lyman and speer books have alot of good info if you are a beginner. But you should not have to pay much for load data. Vhitavuori and Norma has load data for popular bullets in many cartridges. Spend your money on components 😉🙏
back when i started reloading ammo i bought the lee anv challenger press kit primers was 35 for a brick and powder was only 25 a pound even good hunting bullets you could get for around 20 bucks for a box of 100 glad i stocked up on primers back then just wished i had bought lots more powder back then but i can say i have everything i need to reload for all my center fire firearms but my newest gun its a 223 so i will be getting a set of lee dies for that gun soon but that single stage lee press is still going strong might not be that fast but i am getting up in age and im not that fast so its still the right press for my needs i also try to stick to loading batches of 100 rounds at a time makes it easy and it seems like its easy cause i dont have to put up part packs of primers or part boxes of bullets
I just started reloading a month or so ago on a single stage lee challenger 3 press. So far, ive put out a few hundred 9mm and just started reloading .45 ACP. So far, so good, and im working my way towards reloading .223 for my rifle. I went fairly cheap on my initial setup; manuals, press, priming tool, a cheap powder measure, a digital scale that can weigh in grains, and a decent digital caliper. Its worked well so far, and i enjoy the process and just take my time. Surpisingly, Amazon sells just about any reloading tool you could ask for, including dies, along with a decent assortment of manuals and tons of acessory tools.
Let’s see whether I speak for the group:
We love the good sound information you share and your good wholesome demeanor sir. Long live your channel and you.
lube
You do.
How refreshing to listen/watch a mature educational discussion about reloading. No blasting music; no "What's happening, Dude!' crap. Thanks, Ol' Scout!. Really enjoyable.......
Absolutely! A man who simply talks and gives good advice without acting like a 3-year-old hyper wild kindergartener while shoving his face right up into the camera like a j@ck@ss! I love this fella here.
Congratulations on breaking 200k!GunBlue490 is hands-down, my favorite 'guntuber'. No one serves up a lesson like this gentleman. Furthermore, his knowledge and proficiency is unmatched. He truly loves what he does.
I’m still working on a single stage press, even for 9mm and 223. Your videos on reloading and pistol shooting have been extremely helpful. Thanks for being willing to share your knowledge and experience.
I use a lee 1000 for 45acp, an O frame lee for rifles, and a C frame for small pistol rounds. I don’t make a crazy amount of rounds so I’ve had no need to upgrade from any of the single stages either.
@ right there with you. I make batches of 100-250 depending on caliber. I Couldn’t afford to shoot my revolvers without reloading and couldn’t match my reloads accuracy with factory 9mm ammo. The single stage still handles both.
I’ve been listening to his videos for years. He’s one of the best out there. An acquaintance is currently writing a piece about “GunTube” channels on RUclips for The NY Times. He’s a former Marine Infantryman. He writes fair and unbiased pieces. I told him to take a look at GunBlue to see the mature side of this hobby/passion.
Dear Sir;
Your video on reloading is spot on! I have been reloading since I was 16 years old. I am now 71 and stareing 72 in the face. Started with a LEE set that was nothing more than a hammer in and out using a hard plastic pounder! the powder scoop was just the same as you showed. By 19 years old, I had grown to a RCBS Rock Crusher which still is in use. this all started with an old 8 X 57 war surplus rifle my Father bought me from Montgomery Wards for I believe $49.00. I now load for a dozen rifle and pistol cartriges, ranging from 25-06 to 378 Weatherby.Bless you for keeping it simple and honest!
Sincerely Bruce in Weatern Wastongton
I have that LEE Classic Turret Press. I've been using it for 15 years now, with no problems.
Almost my complete set up is from Lee. All of my dies, case prep, and my press which is the simplest least expensive c press you can buy. I have several manuals but again I prefer the Lee manual not only because of the excellent load data but it contains a wealth of information and interesting reading. On a side note my Lee manual has the cover on it upside down so if I'm reading from it around someone who isn't aware it causes some funny looks. Great video!!!
Boy that semi progressive turret style is cool! I've been using a Lee Hand Press kit since 1984. Might need to make the jump into the modern era! Still using a 12 gauge Lee Loader for brass hulled blackpowder shotgun shells for my old Damascus hammer double.
Great video!
One of the great things about reloading is the equipment is virtually indestructible in normal use.
I started reloading for metallic cartridges in 1973. For shotshells in the early 60s. I still have the following equipment from my initial set up and it is still in daily use for some reloading...
RCBS Jr. single stage press, Redding #2 scale, Ohaus Du-O-Measure (not cheap, even in 1973, but worth every penny), Forster case trimmer, RCBS dies for .30-06, .30-30, .38 Special/.357 Magnum, .45 ACP.
I now handload for 81 different cartridges, and have added many more pieces of equipment. But it was relatively painless doing it over the past 50+ years.
Since I load small quantities of many different cartridges, the singe stage RCBS Jr. press is used for that. I added a progressive press for the cartridges I load a lot of, and a Lyman Orange Crusher for handling LONG cases like the .375 H&H and .45 -110 - 2-7/8". Not everyone needs those.
Best of all...have fun!
I bought a Lee hand press about 12 years ago because I wasn’t sure how much I would get into reloading.
Since then I’ve reloaded around 85,000 rounds, and the hand press is still going strong. This is also good for those folks who don’t have a lot of space due to its portability.
Sir I have just come across your channel, I must say you have away of spelling out just how and what is needed to becoming a great reloader. And what one can expect in costs. Thank you for your time along with your knowledge of reloading. You are just soooo down to earth when talking. You remained me of grandfather, he had that same way of talking . Again it's people like yourself who is so badly needed to help keep reloading alive. To show its not rocket science. Or something to be afraid of. To pass along knowledge to beginners. Thank you soooooo very much sir, may God bless you and yours.
Thank you so very much! God bless.
Been reloading a couple of years now, don’t get into it to save money, seems that you shoot more so any savings go out the window. It is a fascinating and rewarding hobby and I find it relaxing. I love the case prep and trying new bullets and powders. Great video sir.
I’ve read that a person starts out reloading to save money but enjoys reloading so much that they end up shooting more so that they can reload more. Either way it’s a win win
In the Lee manual, on page 37, it states:
"Bullets seated deeper than normal will reduce case capacity and increase pressure. This is not too critical for large rifle cases, but extremely important for pistol loads. Good load data specifies bullet seating depth or over all cartridge length. Do not seat the bullet to deep.
On page 96, of the Lee manual, under the section of “The Latest Information On Pressure”, it states:
"2) the extreme expansion (XTP and Gold Dot) handgun bullets have a large and deep nose cavity that makes them longer than a regular bullet of the same weight. This requires deeper depth resulting in higher pressure. Seating depth is very critical for handgun ammunition because of the small cases and large bores. ... … The usable volume of … … … the 45 ACP is 1.14cc. Seating bullets 1/16” deeper … .. … reduces the volume … 0.16cc for the 45 ACP. That’s ... ... ... a whopping 14% ... . This large volume reduction has an equally large effect on pressure that is made more critical because the maximum pressure for the 45 ACP is 1/3 of [plus 60,000 pound range as mentioned below. Keep in mind the 45 Colt working pressure is a mere 14,000 psi.] …
On page 157, of Lee's manual under "Minimal Overall Length", It states:
This is critical on most handgun cases. A small reduction in overall length can cause dangerous pressures because of reduced capacity caused by seating the bullet too deep. See details on page 96."
On page 133, of the "Complete Reloading Guide", under "Loads For Handgun Cartridges", in bold font right under the heading it states:
Loads for handguns ... with less case capacity ... when loading ... ... ... mere tenths of a grain of powder can make the difference between a good load and one that is dangerous. Approach the loading of handgun ammunition with these facts in mind."
Plus on pages 88 thru 89, of the Lee manual, under "Signs Of Excessive Pressure" is a list of seven pressure signs and then the manual states the following:
"It must be emphasized that these signs will not manifest themselves in ... low pressure rounds. These are signs of pressure in the plus 60,000 pound range. If you are loading for a gun designed to operate at 15,000 pounds pressure, you will most likely never find a loose primer because the gun would have blown up and spread the primer and gun parts over a wide area."
And on page 158, of the Lee manual, in the section of “How To Read The Load Data”, under “XTP” it states :
“Use these loads for the Hornady XTP, Speer Gold Dot, or Remington Golden Saber bullets.
Now on page 270, of the Lee manual, under the “250 grain XTP” it gives load data with three different seating depths, because the data was taken from three different brand bullets, yet clumped together as if one. So if someone where to take the data developed for the shorter bullet and turn around and used it with the longer bullet they could very well raise pressures far above the 10% reduced starting charge weight. Especially if they use a case with smaller case capacity than that used in the development of the load data, as well as a hotter brand primer than that which was used to develop the data in the first place. Keep in mind that just changing the brand of primer can cause as much as a 2,000 psi rise in pressure alone, which can by itself swallow up the safety margin. Then throw in a case that has a reduced volume than the tested one and on top of all that seating the wrong bullet father in to the case, because it has a deeper hollow point and thicker cooper jacket, than what was used to developed the load data could easily displace the primer into one's own eye - so to speak.
Or another way to put it would be as written in the book "Ammunition, Demystified" (page 17-18):
War Stories #1
"I used loading data from one manufacturer for the equivalent weight bullet made by a different manufacturer. I picked a starting propellent load based on the projectile weight I was loading. I fired two previous shots without much apparent problem. After the third shot, imagine my surprise when I dropped the lock block on my Ruger no.1 and found the whole primer, cup and anvil, missing! I immediately ceased shooting that ammunition and rifle until I got the rifle taken apart, inspected for various and sundry loose metal pieces from the primer, and successfully put them back together. The ammunition was broken down, never to be fired in that particular arrangement again. I know I do not want to do that again! While the bullet weight is an important factor in selecting the powder type and weight for your firearm, the ability of the bullet to engrave by the rifling (think of friction and radial stiffness) also dramatically affects the peak pressure a given powder load will attain. Use only the loading data published by the bullet manufacture! Substitution of loading data for equivalent weight bullets can get you into deep yogurt!"
And I know for a fact that other manuals have stated not to switch brands of bullets even if they are of the same type. I would post them here if I had the time to wade through 30 different manuals to find where they spoke of such, but I am tired just having to have dug up the above and below.
One can head the warnings of reloading or not, but what ever they do they should not teach others to ignore them just because they might so choose.
Again, the Richard Lee loading manual does not do pressure tests themselves, they only take test data from others that do and jumble it all together, of which they lose the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as bullet brand. And some 45 caliber bullets are .451" and some are .452" diameter. These are all important elements, as one should never take data made for one specific brand and type bullet and turn and use it with a different brand or type bullet. This is due to Brinell hardness and bearing surfaces can be different, as well as the shape can be slightly different with longer or shorter lengths, all of which can cause extremely high pressure issues. One should only use data straight from a reputable data source [see paragraph below] that does their own pressure testing which give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, and most of all the brand of the type bullet used in developing the data. Each one of these elements that are changed is a compromise of which if all are compromised at the same time could very well add up to a recipe for disaster.
First off, I am not implying that Lee plagiarized the data in their manual, just that they jumbled data from different sources together and lost key elements in the doing. And it has always been a given that one should use the starting loads and work their way up. This 10% reduction covers for smaller bore diameters, different lots of powder, different brand/lots of primers, and different brands of cartridge cases. These alone can take up that 10% relatively easy. Especially in pistol cartridges, as a little goes a long way in such small volume chambers. And the .001" difference in diameter with a stiffer jacket can definitely cause pressure issues when it comes to using load data for one brand bullet [i.e. - the smaller one] and using it for another brand bullet e.g. - the larger one].
Lyman, Speer, Nosler, Sierra, Barnes, Swift, Berger, Norma, Lapua, VihtaVuori, Accurate, Western Powder, Hodgdon, or even Hornady reloading manuals are far better suited than Richard Lee's for gleaning load data from, as they all not only do their own testing but they all give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as the bullets brand and type for each load recipe.
Lyman has most everyone's bullets and many powders too, so it is a good all around manual to get first. Then once one figures a particular bullet they want to use they should get the bullet manufacturer's manual, and try and get the powder manufacturer's manuals that they plan to use as well. Then as one decides to use other manufacturer's bullets and powders they should add these manuals as well. And Lyman also has a Cast Bullet reloading manual for those who wish to cast their own bullets.
There are also other reloading manuals that do not pressure test their loading data and those should not be used for load data but can be used to glean information of the reloading process. So once one has all the powder and bullet manufacture's manuals they could continue to add these other manuals for the knowledge in the first half of them (only).
Yet again Richard Lee's manual throws out one of the carnal safety rules of "never use load data developed for one brand of bullet for another brand of the same style bullet". Keep in mind that it is always better to throw out Richard Lee's manual than any of the safety rules. But with all that said Richard Lee's reloading manual has a wealth of knowledge in the front half that makes the book well worth having. Just do not ignore the Cautions, Warnings, and Nevers there within.
I'd like to add that I use primers and powder that I can buy local and are always in stock, even if they aren't ideal. For most people I would say get a digital scale and measure every charge until you get the feel of your powder measure. Cross reference a couple different sets of load data to make sure they agree. Keep notes in a notebook.
Ironically, many years ago as a total newbie I watched your videos where you set up and indexed a Lee progressive loader. I bought one and followed all your instructions and was off and running and still reloading today. I think I agree with you, however that some baby steps are advisable for most people.
If you want free loading trays, check the trash can at the range. Ammo boxed have that plastic tray you can use. One for 9mm works for several cartridges.
Another long time reloader here. This is an EXCELLENT video. A couple things to add:
1. Hornady pistol dies have a guide that aligns the bullet built in. For manual set ups, this is great.
2. Buying nitride treated dies is worth it. Harder metallurgy, and most importantly, for pistol, you don’t have to use lube on your cases when resizing
3. One more pro of Hornady is the quick change bushing system. Just like the Lee system shown in the video, only for each die on a single stage, it allows you to set up a die set how you want it, and then you’re all done.
4. Get yourself a set of calipers. Even at Harbor Freight the digital Pittsburgh one works surprisingly well compared to a $300+ set (I have both)
My Lee Value Turret press kit was bought 6 years ago. I use Lee dies. I've made about 20k rounds of a mix of 9mm, 38 Spec, 357, 45 acp, 10mm and 223 and still working great. I can safely make 150 to 200 pistol rounds per hour while visually monitoring each stage and weighing every 25 cartridge loads. I load rifle in stages without auto indexing. Most of my loads are midrange for range use and maximum accuracy for each gun.
I did upgrade with a second scale, an Ohaus 505 to set the powder measure to desired charge. Ouaus makes the scales for everyone else, who charge extra for the paint and logo. However, the Lee scale that came with kit is very sensitive to very minor changes in charge, so I set it to match the Ohaus, and then I use it for periodic checking while loading.
Only had one minor issue related to over crimping some Berry's plated bullets in one batch. Easy fix.
I may be wrong, but believe my Lee 9mm bullet seater is 16 thread based in my testing. But then, I failed Calculus in college....
I worked in the firearms industry for 18 years. Sold reloading gear too. It was always the same from the rookie customer “don’t you just turn some dials and pull some levers?”. 😂
Congrats on 200k milestone. It is much deserved for amazing content you produce.
💯 agree with handloading and reloading not the same!!!
My first bench was a military surplus metal desk
Thank you for another wonderful video. I’m in my 70’s and have been reloading for many years. I have always enjoyed watching your videos, as they are like an old friend discussing reloading with you. So many others these days feature hosts dressed in assault gear, screaming at you with a background of loud music. Over the years I have picked up many tidbits from you that have been a big help. I’ve always felt that reloading is a constant learning experience. I hope you will keep making your videos. Thank you for a job well done sir.
Excellent video. A must watch for anyone. I wish he was my neighbor so I could lean more. He’s been there done that.
Great video. After several years I'm still using a single stage press with the Lee dippers and a scale, and it works just fine.
Ages ago I started with a Lee turret. I simply took the indexing rod out and ran it as a single stage. It worked well for me.. once i gained experience and comfort, I ran it as a turret
Thats the way i started now i have all the little bugs in the lee that some people talk about .
i viewed and re-viewed all your hand loading videos. I can't over emphasize how much help they were to me. With your advice I set up and used my equipment to reload several calibers and couldn't be happier. I really enjoy the simple pace of the press and I'm getting great results. Your advice on keeping it simple is priceless and kept me from being a bonehead buying 'over the top' expensive equipment. Two thumbs up and thanks again.
I had the Lee semi-progressive press similar to yours, liked it for for loading pistol cartridges but went back to the RCBS single stage press for everything else.
For dies I would buy whatever was available at the best price.
Slowly added components over the years, powder measure, scales, case trimmer ,hand priming tool and assorted other equipment as I needed and could afford it.
You never stop to amaze me Sr. Your knowledge is simple endless and thank you for sharing your wisdom with us.
Excellent presentation as always. If you ever get the chance I’d like to see a presentation of the classic Lee loader all in one kits. That’s how I started reloading many years ago for my 30/30. I still use them from time to time just for nostalgia. I’ve shown a few people over the years how to use it and if you’re only loading for just one cartridge at low volume it’s fantastic. I believe it’s by far the most economical way for someone to get started. By the time they buy the kit, Lee trim set, funnel and loading block they are usually around $80 total in equipment. I’ll happily ship you a kit in the caliber of your choosing if you decide to or I’d just add the extra cash to my monthly patreon if you’d rather do it that way.
Thank you
That's an excellent idea! Yes, my first reloading tool was a Christmas gift in 1964, a 16 gauge lee pocket loader for paper shotshells of the day. It worked terrific. So, I've been reloading longer than I thought!
@@GunBlue490 My dad had one of them back in the day that he used to reload the 16 gauge. I still have some of the blue paper shells that he reloaded for when we shot trap with my first shot gun .
@@GunBlue490I'm buying my first rifle next month and plan on getting the classic Lee loader to begin reloading. A video would be very appreciated.
@@cleanjimmyThey’re a waste. Buy a regular single stage. You will be happy you did.
So happy to see you again my friend This is a wonderful choice for a video. I have an interest in this subject and this information is priceless, as usual. Thank you soo much.
Been loading for years and use a Lee Challenger press (pre bushing). Still works great. I have all different brands of dies and my Lee dies produce excellent rounds. The cost of components has gotten so high that I have cut way back on my reloading but to get the most out of some rifles you have to.
10:29 "...Rock Chucker kit for $530 on sale..." Holy Moly! My Rock Chucker kit cost $200 on sale. It doesn't seem like so many years ago, either, certainly fewer than ten.
23:11 I found the Lee powder dippers to be remarkably consistent once I learned to use them.
33:24 If you can find one of those Lyman beam balances, you'll have a treasure.
Still using some of the first equipment. Lachmiller, Herters, C-H, and Bonanza! Good show! Thanks bud.
I had a Dillon. Thing was really fast, too fast. I traded it and bought two singles. I enjoy handling each round. No need for speed. If you aren’t reloading you’re missing out. It’s a blast.
If you had a blast, you didn't do it right!
@ …fair point
Depends on the volume you shoot. Semi pistol is easy to use 200 rounds a shoot.
I bought a RCBS Rock Chucker Master Kit in 1975 and it's still in use BUT starting out today I would look for used equipment. There is so many good used pieces out there that can be purchased for pennies on the dollar compared to new it is crazy not to look into it. I just got my nephew started. A Lyman Spartan press was bought for 15 bucks, plenty strong for 223 and 9mm that he wanted. A set of Lyman All American dies found to be in perfect shape were 15 dollars each, a RCBS uniflow powder measure with short stand was another 20 and a new digital powder measure was 22 bucks with check weights. Miscellaneous parts like shell holders, primer pocket reformer/cleaner, a Hornady load manual, Lee trimmer kits and deburr tool, load blocks and the list goes on were maybe another 50. We built a load bench from some old framing lumber and topped it with some laminated kitchen counter, added lighting and wall shelving for storage and at the most it cost him 150 bucks and not only was he pleased with his new skills and cost savings but with the accuracy of his rounds produced. It goes without saying finding someone handy and experienced is critical, I have done it for many people over the years, currently I purchase equipment when I find it in good condition on the cheap. I just bought a RCBS RS press (forerunner to the Rock Chucker) like new for 25 bucks at a barn sale, just had to make the missing operating handle for it. Best part is if my nephew didn't take to the hobby he could peddle the whole set up for at least 200 bucks.
Lots of great used stuff out there!
Great advice. I started loading in High School with just a RCBS Rock Chucker and beam scale and of course a set of dies. Soon found out that while I could sort of get by pouring powder from the scale pan into a 30-30 case, the 22-250 wasn't going to work. So, I got a powder funnel. They are so cheap I should have bought that right away anyhow. Next tool was a RCBS Powder dribbler because it was too tedious to try to use a spoon to put powder into the scale pan. I got pretty good at tilting the Dribbler so it would pour faster and then when the scale beam would jump, I'd sit the Dribbler back down flat and turn it slower until I got my correct powder charge. When I got a 44 Magnum revolver a year later, I got the RCBS Little Dandy powder dropper that uses the predrilled rotors. They are great for handguns but won't drop enough for most rifles. I didn't get an adjustable powder dropper until I finished college. That's when I got my 1st trimmer - a Forrester - that is really something you need sooner if you are loading bottle neck cartridges. It is definitely true that you don't need all the exotic tools some guys claim. Mostly they are trying to use money spent as a way to impress how much they know about reloading.
200k your definitely worth 5x that!!!
My first and only reloading kit was a Lee Precision 50th anniversary. Midway had it at $160, dropped it to $140. They gave me a $20 birthday gift. So for $120 Ive been reloading using that system for about 7 years. Im no Eric Cortina, but I get 1/2" groups at 100 yards and under fairly consistently. I also purchased one of those $25 C style pressed from Lee to do alot of the dirty work, if you would. But Ive been very satisfied with them.
I do one day only resizing and tumbling brass, than i use two single stage presses on each side of my loading bench. Works great 😁
Looking forward to this one. Been at it for 4 years-- but still learning.
well 200 thousand of us appreciate what you do and have bothered to subscribe, been reloading for 30 years now- still learned something.
i now know how to recrown a Barrell,,,😁😁
After 25+ years of hand loading, I purchased a Hornady A/P press. I was shooting more and needed a faster supply. My son and I shoot off apx 400 rounds at a session, so I needed a faster way to make up brass. My Rock Chucker is still mounted on the bench.
Greetings from Buenos Aires - Argentina. My humble suggestion: don´t worry about number of subscribers. Your experience is far more important. Regards ... !
Thank you brother for the great video.
A older gentleman, who was a plumber customer of mine, had several mec shot shell presses. We both saved lead and he had a shot machine. He took me to the skeet trap range, nice guy. He had a couple of strokes and couldn't shoot or reload anymore. He got mad at some of his shooting buddies, thought they Were trying to low ball him on his equipment. I came over one day and he tried to sell me his reloading equipment, I said I don't need it all, he said, aww hell, take it all I'm going to let you have it cheap! For around $200.00 I got four or five nice mec presses, top of the line scales, box full of extra parts, a bunch of lead and more.
I have several Lee deluxe sets, never had a problem. I have the Lee classic press and when I get a new die set, I also buy a new turret, that way I just switch the turrets out to change calibers.
I really enjoy your reloading videos! They are very educational. Thank you.
Thank you Sir.
While im not new to reloading, i still enjoyed this. My suggestion to reloading for money savings, reload based on current prices. 9mm may not be worth it currently but something like 44mag is. Also range brass and bullet casting can save a ton. Ive never paid for lead being a plumber and powder coat my bullets.
I definitely need to start collecting lead and buy a melting pot
Best advice ever when he says “it’s never a waste of money to buy a single stage press”. I started with a Lee 4 hole turret press. It was great for loading plinking handgun or AR ammo. But 99% of the time, I have the indexing rod out of the press, and just use it as a single stage. If you’re hand loading accurate rifle ammo, a single stage is a must have.
edit: just watched further into the video and saw you doing the same thing!!
Thanks for the great content !
Lee has recently released a micrometer top for $20 to add in 15:54 to any of the bullet seaters. As you stated, not necessary, but for $20 it’s a nice add on especially when working with different bullets.
Thanks again
This is good Basic Information. I've been reloading since around 1969 .Back when I started I could load 100 rounds of .38 SPCL for $3.50 with my own Hard Cast Bullets. The Tip about keeping Distractions away is Very Important .Back in the late 1970's I Blew Up a Brand New Ruger Super Black Hawk because my Mother came in the Garage and started bothering me while I was Reloading .When I told her what happened she never bothered me again. She's passed away over 30 years ago. If you reload for AR15 or Ar10 or any Semi Automatic Rifle .I recommend sticking with Small Base Dies as Standard Dies don't always feed well. Also Buy a Case gauge for each caliber , and take careful notes. I like the Lee Factory Crimp Dies but if you have a Dillon Press do not use the Lee Factory Crimp in .357 Mag. The Dillon Shell Plate is thicker then RCBS , LEE , C-H or Lyman and you will break the Die ,I just wish Lee told you that in the ads it would have saved me a broken Die.
I began with a mixed set, including a turret press from Lyman and Forster's dies. However, I discovered that some Lee tools weren't as reliable. For instance, the cheapest powder measure didn't work for me, so I upgraded to a Hornady dispenser, which eventually broke. I then got an Autocharge Pro, which I absolutely love. However, what I do appreciate about Lee reloading equipment is their Deluxe Power Quick Trim. I've realized that different manufacturers excel in different areas, so it's important to choose the products that best suit your needs.
Thanks GB, enjoyed watching great information!
9:28 Extruded powder (IMR 4064) is a strong argument for a single stage press. Each granule is a long cylinder or “stick” and sometimes in a progressive press, it can jam in certain powder droppers, especially when loading narrow case mouths (like 22 caliber), resulting in alternating squib loads and double charges. You may see it spilling and/or feel it crunching in the works, but maybe not. With a single stage and loading block it is easy to visually verify if the powder in any cartridge doesn’t match the others.
Thank you for a clear outline of the reloading process which has had me apprehensive from the start. I can now move forward and get some equipment together and start reloading. Greetings from Australia!
Thank you for doing this.
Thanks for the info and tips , still using a 218 Bee so hand loading is about the only option when you can find them on the shelf sticker shock sets in .
I’ve been using a single stage press for over 20 years now. I reload everything in that bad boy. Great info for the beginner
Great. Another video from Gun Blue 490.
been loading for over 25 years and have equipment from dillon, lee, rcbs. redding, hornady, hollywood, lyman and a few others. still load precision rifle ammo on my lee three hole turret press. never needed a more expensive press for rifle. i do use dillon presses for handgun ammo just because of volume. the single best piece of equipment in my inventory is my notebooks. keep info on everything i have reloaded - invaluable.
Thanks again for another informative video.
This gentleman is clearly very experienced and knowledgeable. For reloaders, Lee dies do make sense - they work, at minimal cost. However, when some of those beginner reloaders transition to becoming handloaders, Hornady dies - especially the bushing dies - are worth every penny. Forster dies are also quite nice, but after comparing the two (and some other brands), I personally prefer the Hornady design and its stellar machining.
Frankly, I regret some of my Lee and RCBS die purchases and have been slowly replacing or augmenting those sets with Hornady equivalents, both the aforementioned bushing sizing dies and seaters. I do like the Lee powder-through die w/ powder measure for volume reloading, when efficiency is more important than accuracy (e.g., range practice ammo).
The trusty old RCBS single stage press design is notably better than most others, at any price. That last statement would probably have outright angered Richard Lee, but the RCBS manufacturing tolerances, mechanical stability and collinearity result in ammo that is _measurably_ better. Plus, rock chuckers are overall, quite pleasant to use. I would never recommend a progressive to a new loader but I also wouldn’t recommend cheaping out on the single-stage either. Same goes for the scale. Get something you can *trust* . Anyway, that’s my 2¢.
Thank you Gun Blue for your insight on reloading. It was very informative!
You're very welcome!
Subscribed! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!
A solid video. Thanks so much.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks!
I really like my Dillon presses... I have several other brand single stage units as well. They all work together. I got my free replacement parts from Dillon's no BS warranty today to fix my 50 year old Square Deal b. I really enjoy watching the rounds fall out of the press with each pull of the lever.
Great tips.
Awesome thanks and God bless
Almost 5yr on a lee 4 hole with sharpie marks all over my lee dies that can easily remove stuck cases which I imagine are a pain. problem I’ve not had to experience thanks to your advise. Ol hammer and decapper they peck right out. My only deal is the amount of lube I have to brush on with toothbrush. I’ve tried less and stick everytime so I paste it in and try to watch about dents. Loaded many thousands with great results but have dented a few. Use lee lube and try to stay with there products. Thanks a bushel for all the knowledge.✌🏻
Again the knowledge this man has is amazing thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge with us
Thanks GunBlue. Love your vids. I had to go back @9:40 you said it would cost $16.00 per round. I imagine you meant $1.60 per round. You almost talked me into buying factory loads He He!
Thanks for sharing your gunning around sir!
I always feel like I’ve attended a first rate college course when I watch one of these videos. Though I think we’re also a subset of people who eat food.
You're not wrong! 😂
First rate college course?
More like first rate Fudd course.
30 seconds in he calls 50 rounds “a lot of ammo” 😂
50 rounds is literally 5 groups….
Always look forward to your videos. The most informative and down to earth common sense videos I watch.Thank you.
For the digital scales this might be interesting to some based on where you roam:
All those load cells in the use DC. Just like with other measuring tools, it can have influence on the output. What it reads is voltage and gives out a respective weight to it. So if you're aware of inconsistencies in voltage even more than usually and you're set to make some highly accurate bench rest or long range load, I'd go with a fresh battery or charge one and switch.
If you're not doing that, just go with the outlet. It is far less of an hassle.
The dial caliper is my favourite, making potential pressure on the workpiece visible. One that has an enclosed rack & pinion gives less chance for dirt ingress. I still have a digital one for quickly measuring differences. If one hasn't worked with calipers for quit a while, go watch detailed videos on how to use what surface and measuring failures.
I think it was me asking for this video and it will save me quite some money. Thank you!
The video has the perfect timing, a day after completing my reloading and muzzle loader course.
Cost and paperwork aside, it was fun and we learned a lot to avoid some issues but it'll take a while.
Thank you for the video
Not sure, because I don't reload that cartridge any longer, but I still have a Herters die set. I don't ever trade em.
100% Correct about Progressive Loaders for beginners. I had loaded at least 15 years before I got my 1st and only progressive. I can tell you that if you don't understand the process extremely well, when things start going wrong on one station of the press, you will get so focused on the immediate problem that you will crap it up elsewhere and end up with a total mess! Learn the basics and to be honest, very few people will benefit from a progressive unless you are a competitive handgun shooter. I put mine away and quit fooling with it. And I've been loading for nearly 50 years now.
Thank you for sharing my friend!
Another excellent video! I have almost all the same equipment, or similar. Lee products have been my go to for years. Congratulations on reaching 200,000!
I would have to agree the lee dies are great! I have also used many different brands and now I only buy lee dies. Plus they have the best crimp die. A lot I my reloading stuff over the years have come second hand from my local gun shop when someone either gets out of the sport or passes away and their gear get brought into the shop. Cost saving is not an consideration for me although you do save a bit....it more of the enjoyment and accuracy you gain from reloading and working up loads. I find those lee powder scoops handy to get your powder thrower setup fast for a particular load. I also mounted a wood working vice to the end of my reloading bench which I have made seperate mounts for and use it as a quick release system for powder thrower ect. You simply use the vice as a clamp to mount anything securely to the bench as the wood workers vice sits flush to the bench and holds anything tight. Cheers
The Lyman All American 8 turret press gives you all the benefits of a single stage as well as the ability to have dies for different calibers all set up properly 😊😊😊…another is the LEE series of presses …their dies will last you a lifetime…for powder and primers I recommend checking out American Reloading, they have zero hazmat along with free shipping (they do charge sale tax)…I do recommend a reliable set of calipers though…I’ll agree 100% on the first reloading manual being a must buy (FREE reloading manuals are available from powder manufacturers). This gentleman knows his stuff 👍👍👍
Thank you
Thanks so much, this hit the spot and was exactly what I needed. I knew you were the right guy to ask from the time I found your channel. Refreshing to get straight, no nonsense information. In my state they tax factory ammo at 20% but not components, so reloading will be an even greater savings now. Wish we were close so I could buy you a coffee and head to the range. Thanks again, this is so very much appreciated. GOD BLESS !!!
Hey Neighbor, good to see you. Love my Lee Classic Four Turret Press. I still use single stage Lee and RCBS for tasks I don't want to clutter up my Lee Four Hole Press. Love Lee Dies Sets too. One thing you really need are Reloading Manuals, you can never have enough of those, AND READ THEM! Still my favorite, Modern Reloading Second Edition by Richard Lee.
Another great video!
Great job enjoy your knowledge.
Congratulations! On 200,000 subs 👍🏽😊❤️🇺🇸
Thanks, great info as always!
I'm very glad to see you putting some more content out for us thank you.
I've used your other videos in the past for cleaning and inspections of guns. Spot on. Always enjoy your videos sir.
Thank you for sharing and being a blessing
I really like your videos Sir. I've watched and learned something that I have never practiced before. Thank you. Very informative and educational videos.
Thank you so much for this video. You answered all the questions I had and some I did not know I had. Keep up the good work and God Bless.
I have 55 years of hand loading experience. I trust no progressive press to properly prime a case or powder charge a case. I do that by hand. All the other ammo loading processes like case sizing , case neck flaring, and bullet seating are done on progressive and turret presses. I load ammo in batches of 100 to 250 rounds. Progressives presses and turret presses do speed up my method of reloading . Especially with the addition of case and bullet feeders.
Barnes have load data on their homepage.
So if you know your bullet check if the manufacturer has free data before you buy a book.
The lyman and speer books have alot of good info if you are a beginner. But you should not have to pay much for load data.
Vhitavuori and Norma has load data for popular bullets in many cartridges.
Spend your money on components 😉🙏
I have two single stage presses set up with the powder drop in between.
Takes a bit to set up, but then I can really run production.
back when i started reloading ammo i bought the lee anv challenger press kit primers was 35 for a brick and powder was only 25 a pound even good hunting bullets you could get for around 20 bucks for a box of 100 glad i stocked up on primers back then just wished i had bought lots more powder back then but i can say i have everything i need to reload for all my center fire firearms but my newest gun its a 223 so i will be getting a set of lee dies for that gun soon but that single stage lee press is still going strong might not be that fast but i am getting up in age and im not that fast so its still the right press for my needs i also try to stick to loading batches of 100 rounds at a time makes it easy and it seems like its easy cause i dont have to put up part packs of primers or part boxes of bullets
Your tutorials are fantastic !!! Thank you.
I just started reloading a month or so ago on a single stage lee challenger 3 press. So far, ive put out a few hundred 9mm and just started reloading .45 ACP. So far, so good, and im working my way towards reloading .223 for my rifle. I went fairly cheap on my initial setup; manuals, press, priming tool, a cheap powder measure, a digital scale that can weigh in grains, and a decent digital caliper. Its worked well so far, and i enjoy the process and just take my time. Surpisingly, Amazon sells just about any reloading tool you could ask for, including dies, along with a decent assortment of manuals and tons of acessory tools.