200a JBD BMS - Full Setup Tutorial
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2024
- Learning the in's and out's of this battery management system (BMS) took a little research but wasn't rocket science! Hope the video helped!
Feel free to support by buying me a coffee! buymeacoffee.com/vanwithtim
LithiumSolar's video on battery cell compression: • LiFePO4 Battery Compre...
DIY Solar Forum: diysolarforum.com/
BMS and lithium cells: www.docanpower.com/
Affiliate links:
Battery disconnect switch: amzn.to/3Quq3xQ
12 volt heating element: amzn.to/3Nijqfn
Metric screw assortment: amzn.to/39yzonx
@0:00 Intro
@0:38 Bolts
@2:02 Connectors
@3:22 Heat circuit
@5:55 Assembly
@7:34 BMS mount
@8:46 Cell connection
@9:40 Disconnect s/w
@10:31 Final connection order
@12:56 iOS app
@14:22 Android app 
Наука
I'd give you ten thumbs up if I could. I recently ordered one of these BMSs and you filled in the gaps in their documentation wonderfully.
Really appreciate the comment! This is exactly why I wanted to make the video. Happy to hear it's helping the community!
I don’t have one of these but just wanted to say that your clear and well explained walkthroughs do you credit and I’ve found your ideas useful in the past. Thank you.
Appreciate the comment Andy. Thanks for the support!
Greatly appreciate this video Tim🫡 you’re very well spoken, I highly encourage you to continue in your RUclips ventures!
Thank you for all your support Mark. Truly appreciate it!
Thanks for the setup video. I'm struggling with the bms settings. Can you share the settings you used?
Great video, thank you! I just got my cells and was about to start setting them up and realized I didn't understand any of the lingo. Also, tried to find those apps you listed (Android) but can only find the one with the Elephant on it. Suggestions?
Thanks for your video! Good job!
Thanks for the comment Alex!
Look up what T-Class fuses are. Absolutely needed for arc flash protection. Lifepo4 is incredibly energy dense and can dump a ton of energy at once.
Thank you! I just bought this BMS (two of them actually). Your video has helped a lot! Thank you for taking the time to share this great video.
Did you happen to do anything with the cable that you think is an ON/OFF “switch”? I’m just curious. I just looked at the site that I bought my BMSs from and it says it is a “discharge port switch.” I don’t think it is a must-use thing, but I wonder what the application would be.
Glad it helped a little! I left that mystery port untouched on my unit. The one time I wanted to disable power output, it was as simple as toggling the switch in the app.
the idea of heater is to heat battery up to above 0c. or maybe around ~30c for best performance. having heater to cut off somewhere 60c is way too hot and unneeded. it's somewhere because bimetal switch is under plate and heater is on top?
a spare roll of kapton tape is also a good idea for using around those terminals, just in case
also there might be issue if balance leads are connected to bms and you switch disconnect switch off
finally, is there a water hose directly over battery and switch?
also, if this was any vehicle, the vibration of any bigger componets becomes an issue as things can vibrate off pcb solder joints or vibrate loose and short out!
I was thinking the same about the 60c cut off temp. Hopefully it will cycle on / off actively to average a much lower average temperature.
There is a lot of debate and question around the JBD BMS and the heater terminal parameters. It seems to require a very specific scenario for the heater circuit to activate.
As for the battery cut off switch, it seems to handle it okay. It should be equivalent to turning off the battery loads - just all at once instead of one at a time.
Yes unfortunately that's the water fill hose. Luckily it never has water inside unless actively filling the tank in which the operation is supervised.
I am certainly weary of all the electronics in the van. I don't think the inverter, MPPT solar charger, or this BMS were designed to handle the vibration - specifically the solder joints as you mentioned.
Will continue to keep an eye on the system and listen for feedback from other mobile installations.
Thanks for the thought out and well worded comment!
-Tim
I'm glad I ordered the older/original version with the longer lugs. I never installed the heat pad to my BMS. Do you know the maximum size heat pad you can connect? I have a select of different sized 12v heat pads. I will need to fit one before the winter. Also worth considering setting up the heat pads at 5 degrees so the cells never get close to 0 degrees.
It's a really goofy redesign for sure.
I'm seeing reports of up to 8 amps through the heater port. (~100w) But can't find any official documentation other than hearsay within the www.DIYSolarForum.com
Specifically - diysolarforum.com/threads/jbd-4s-200a-bms.27012/page-9
That's a good idea on bumping up the turn-on temperature. The battery and solar setup can certainly spare the
@@VanwithTim I got 3 of the original BMS boards when they first came out. Back then they didn't even show the M4 lug soldered onto the board in the pictures. At the time I asked the seller about the Maximum Watts input for the heater pad and after a vague answer and few other buyers got different answers. That's why I didn't fit any heat pads. LOL
@@drewhodge3820 It's truly incredible how vague the manufacturer's documentation is!
You'd think the engineers would want their specifications published..?
At least it seems to be a solid BMS choice for the price.
I also bought from Docan Power and you are correct, NO INSTRUCTIONS! I have four JBD 200A BMS that I bought from them with my 64 EVE 304Ah cells to be configured in four batteries in 16S 48V that I haven't yet been able to figure out how to install. I have two different styles and neither of mine are the same as yours. One style has four more wires than the other. Any suggestions on where to find the right instructions? Docan Power wasn't any help, they sent me some things in Chinese.
So if you accidentally tap the wrong bin file and bluetooth no longer comes up, is there some recovery on this?
I love your build Tim, we are sure to see some big dramatic differences in your electric quality of life over time. Are there some stories already in how it changed everything for you? :D
That near connection between a heatsink and wire is probably something that you should come back too asap so vibrations, bumpy roads or whatever doesnt make it touch it. I am certain you already have some plan how to solve it.
I am also kinda wondering, does wood in any way insulate batteries so well that temperatures are non optimal in some way during heat wave? I like how you went with layer so thick that you could make a heavy duty shelf.
Its wild. I paid nearly $800 for a combo of used and new AGM batteries just three years ago. Everything with shipping and tax here came to around $750 for double the (true) capacity!
Very excited to test it out and enjoy it.
You're 100% on the harness running below the heatsink. I was thinking that while assembling too. Will grab a few inches of 1/4" wire loom to play it safe!
I also wondered how the 3/4" wood would effect the cell temperatures. As of today, with an exterior temp of 102F (39C) and that back corner of the van in full sun, the cell temperature sensors show ~84F (~29C) while the BMS on top shows 93F (~34C).
However the temperature operating range is pretty good on these cells - they can charge between 32F to 131F (0C - 55C) and can discharge between -4F to 131F (-20C to 55C).
I suppose the cells themselves are so dense, it's basically a huge metal cube that sits at the average day + night temperature.
Time will tell how they behave with extreme (~150a) prolonged discharging!
@@VanwithTim You are golden with those temps. With 3kwh lithium and 1kw solar you have better electric generation and storage then most van people in luxury builds and 99.99% amateur sailing boats and that includes million dollar yacht(I am not joking, people are choosing AGM on purpose even with major bucks). Without hesitation i can say that you(we?) are minority about right ideas for electric specs in off-grid.
That is just so amazing how your power system is adequate to handle anything. Hell, even off-grid systems cant compare to that, people usually just use bluetti ("AC200P" 1700$ for 2kwh and 3700$ for 3kwh "AC300 + 1*B300") so they dont have to think about inverters and wires.
Personally i would avoid harness in such tight space because i am way too afraid how vibrations can wreck anything in silence and you will never know. Something like repositioning wires and buying longer ones to fit nicely would be permanent solution for me.
@@KingCrowley1 It does drive me crazy how so many van builds are so underpowered. Used solar panels are ridiculously affordable, along with the charge controllers and now even the batteries.
Kills me seeing people throwing their money away on the "all-in-one" solutions. Getting 1/5th of the power for 5x the price.
As for mobile wiring you're spot on to play devils-advocate in that any wire in an even SLIGHTLY precarious position will end up failing eventually. Maybe not this year or even this decade, but you can only rub against the same patch of wire insulation for so long before it fails.
Unfortunately the majority of people failing to properly secure their wiring are typically the same folks running un-fused connections or undersized wires. Really is a miracle we don't see more campervan fires than we currently do.
Hi, Great video. Did your BMS come with power cables to connect the battery negative terminal to the BMS and then the BMS to the load / charger ?
Mine didn't
@@steph8833 Thanks
Does anyone knows the minimum load and minimum charge that can handle? Cose i have a load 0.4ah - 3ah and planing to charge it with 100W solar(so some times 0.02ah charge)So if bms work only above 1ah load its not for small solar . Also if bms allows less than 1ah charge under 0°C to cells?
I'd be concerned about shorting out the bms. Those wire connections are so close to that plate. Is there a way you could add a spacer to rase those connections or add a gasket or something. Just a thought. I'm interested in what kind of cost. I have 2 lead acid batteries so I only have like a 100ah. Your videos have helped me out so much.
Maybe a small piece of a mousepad or toolbox liner to slide between them would be a good idea!
Such a weird design to have them so close to the plate.
My total with shipping from Texas was $762.40 as of May 23rd, 2022. Prices are always fluctuating but that general range is a good reference.
You can probably save ~$100 purchasing direct from AliExpress / Alibaba and having them shipped from China.
They've come down in cost quite a bit in the past few years! I know my used / mis-matched AGM setup was nearly $700 three years ago.
These batteries rate their cycle life in the thousands vs the hundreds with the AGM setup!
@@VanwithTim a toolbox liner would probably be a good choice. Mousepad I think might be to thick. Or even a plastic washer. But any of those choices would work. Thank you for sharing how much you spent. I'm guessing your costs are in US dollars. I'm in Canada so it would cost me a bit more but eventually I will get lithium batteries. Right now I just have two deep cycle fld batteries from Costco which is charged by shore power or my alternator while driving. So I have like a 100ah and going to install 2-100w solar panels from renogy soon. The only heavy watt use I have is my 12v fridge which is between 35w to 50w depending on ambient temperature. Lithium battery prices are definitely becoming more affordable which is great. 👍
@@navigatingthedestination Ahhh. Could definitely be a bit for expensive in CAD (unless shipping direct from China! But that's a lot of trust to send that much $$ overseas)
Solar is a game changer! Hope your install goes smoothly!
Stick some kapton tape on the metal plate and it is done. Maybe two layers for a peace of mind.
Just had one of these delivered (zero instructions...) plus four 280Ah 3.2v cells plus a case.
200 A BMS £124,
case £30,
cells £550.
Less than cheap but incredible density. Will be used to power trolling motor on boat, electrics in caravan and potentially a small induction ring. Need inverter and b2b charger so I can top up with the car.
Great video, I learned lots mate. Just need to wire it all up without welding myself or anything else together.
Can I connect two BMS in parallell with two banks of of 16 cells??. If is correct what I need additional to the two BMS. Thanks
I'm pretty sure these can be connected in parallel, but I would email Amy at Docan Power to make sure you get the right BMS. The one in the video is only for a four-cell setup. Amy's email is: docanpower22@gmail.com
It's important to note that this is only for the JBD 4 cell 200 amp bms. Other cell numbers or amp rating units by JBD are much different. Even the appearance is much different. I don't know too many who use 4 cells to produce 200 amps. 200 amp output would drain the cells rather quickly and the max output would only be 2560 watts. Even if you used 304 ah batteries you only have 3890 whr.
If your batteries are located indoors you don't need to worry about the temp sensor or heating element. The operating range of lifepo4 is so wide that you'll never reach the min or max.
It's not necessary to compress the cells. Uncompressed, average use cycles, these will last 365 years. Unless you have a time machine it's not necessary to compress to make these last longer.
If you're concerned about the heat sink turn the unit the other way around and let the fins be on top. Or better yet put the bms in a box with a fan that runs whenever you are using the batteries.
All great points. My max power draw is usually around 2,500w (pretty close to the 200a on the 12v setup) A 1,850w induction plate + 600w AC unit plus the fridge and some small odds and ends.
Not a ridiculously sustained draw, usually just a few minutes.
So far no heat issues with it, but I do have some spare 12v thermostats and fans just in case!
Great to know about the cell compression. Some theorized the uncompressed cells expand / contract just enough during high discharge that it stresses the posts? (Specifically with the solid busbars of course).
Appreciate the insight as I'm very new to the lithium realm and there was a LOT of (often conflicting) research.
hi TIM... me too i'm not an expert but i ask you why you don't install on pack an Active Equalizer Balancer Lifepo4? ask to you for know your reason and for learn from your experiences... thanx
Great question - the JBD BMS claims to actively balance the cells. (although you should really balance them before installation and use)
I measured the voltages upon receipt and they were all within 0.003v of each other.
I connected all cells together and left them for a week without any load - this passively balanced all the cells.
Hi,
Have you tested or somehow verified that the low temperature charging cut-off setting really works on this one?
Same question for high temperatures.
Also when I saw the temperature cut-off switch, my first thought was to connect it straight to the switch port, so it turns the whole thing off in case of over-temperature.
A few people on the DIY Solar Forum mentioned issues with bench-testing the cut-off and that it needs to see a load or charging current before activating the cut-off.
I haven't tested either the low or high temp cut-off.
I'm not sure if the switch port needs a momentary connection to turn on or off. If it's a full switch design where any continuity disables the BMS then the temp cut-off switch would in fact work perfectly there. (Although in theory the BMS temp sensors should cut-off at the high temperature set-point)
Great question that I can't quite answer unfortunately!
@@VanwithTim Yep, I saw the Off-Grid Garage video about that, but that shouldnt be a problem because any acyually damaging current will still trigger it. Was just interested, is it same quality and function as the widely tested 120A.
In end I just went with 2x120A Overkill (I have 8 cells), which should just be a tested JBD with better warranty and support. I asked them if they are planning to introduce a higher amp version too, answer was no.
@@karlerikrabakukk2694 Hmmm. Hopefully this 200a unit will hold up! Haven't given it a real extended real-world test yet. Just a few standard high amperage ~45 minute tests.
I've always heard good things about the Overkill BMS as well. It sounds like you should have a solid set up!
This is my first adventure into the lithium world, so still lots to learn (thankful for so many great resources out there).
grazie ....very good
I touched the battery output wires, positive and negative very quickly and the jbd bms went into protection saying "locked MOS" and I can't get it to work anymore. Any suggestion to help me?
Hi, can you help me how to change type of battery in from Lifepo4 to Li-ion? I have that BMS in app for iOS i didn't found it
I'm not positive on Li-ion. It's possible the $7.99 Pro version of XiaoxiangBMS iOS app might have access to the configuration, but I'm not sure.
Maybe ask on diysolarforum.com/ or email the seller your purchased the BMS from.
Sorry I can't be of more help!
Ty
How or by which condition the heating port works? I have the "older" version WITH heating port. Connected heating films. NO HEATING IS GENERATED at any temperature values settings. However, tested the films connected directly to the battery works ok.
So I wonder when the heating port receives the "-" ?
Contacted the aliexpress official store - replied me with the descrioton of how to connect the heating films))) However, I do know and already connected all as it should and tested all - heating does not work. Then the seller became silent, my questions marked as "read" while no reply made.
I know the topic is highly debated on diysolarforum.com/
The exact parameters don't seem to be known, but most agree that the heating circuit won't activate unless the batteries are being actively charged or discharged. (Not sure how many amps it needs to see or at what temperature threshold)
I would definitely search around or even make a post on diysolarforum.com/ for more information.
Unfortunately communicating with the Chinese sellers is very tough and rarely delivers meaningful answers.
Good video bud. I have the identical bms but mine is the 150a version. I haven't gotmy batt yet to test it out. Can you supply a link to we're you bought your heating pad please. Cheers bud.
I saw them on Amazon, several choices, too.
@@raystanton238 Ok cheers.
@@alanbrown7155 Hey alan, looks like ray steered you in the right direction. Here's the one I purchased for ~$10 USD amzn.to/3Nijqfn
-Tim
@@VanwithTim Thanks bud. I bought the same one off eBay, cost me ,,£11. Then I bought 2 more from China they cost me £4.50 for 2. There the same one's. Lol thanks again.
is it heating when charging or always heat on when cold temp?
From what I've read, the heating circuit only activates when actively connected to either a load or charging source. JBD is very flaky on the details. Lots of speculation on the DIY solar forums when it comes to the heater circuit and how it operates.
You are wrong in that the heat will be mainly dissipated by the 'shield' vs the beefy heatsink for two reasons:
The mosfets have a solder thermal pad at the bottom which is really great at transferring heat to the pcb (much better than via top of package which is plastic and has thick thermal pad) and
The PCB is an aluminium one, not your standard FR4! Excellent at transferring heat from pcb to heatsink!
This is a well-designed BMS
This certainly makes me feel better about the mounting position. No heat issues so far!
Thanks for the information!
-Tim
I need help with some guitar wiring next time you in town. Hands shake too much for soldering.
No problem uncle! Just remind me because I might forget lol
Shaoshyung :)
Why no explaining all the settings in the bt app?,big fail!.
Olá. também comprei uma BMS como a sua e não trás manual uma vergonha esses chinocas, mas ainda bem que os empresários estão abrir os olhos e já estão abandonar a china ....
Xiao Xiang. (Sheow sheang)
Oooops. Good to know for the future!
Thanks for the heads up
No, the failure here is your choice of lugs and cables. That is dangerous.
Horrible build choices being made. No additional insulation or isolation between the cells. Really bad choice putting the batterys directly on the metal heater plate.......a fire waiting to happen when those cells short.
Look elsewhere for build examples
I think the consensus is either nothing or a thin material between cells so not sure what you are getting on about