Preparing a PATIO SUB-Base - GARDEN RENOVATION
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2021
- This is the 6th part of my garden renovation! The prep work has been completed with the sub-base now down and the next step is to start laying the porcelain patio.
Check out the other parts below:
Part 1 - Planning:
• Garden Renovation - Fr...
Part 2 - Digging a Sleeper Wall Trench:
• Digging a Trench for a...
Part 3 - Building a Retaining Wall with Sleepers:
• Building a Retaining W...
Part 4 - Building Steps from Timber Sleepers
• Building Steps from Ti...
Part 5 - Ground Prep for a Patio Sub-Base
• Ground Prep for a Pati...
Music:
First song
Song: Jarico - Island (Vlog No Copyright Music)
Music promoted by Vlog No Copyright Music.
Video Link: • Video
Second song
Last Summer by Ikson: / ikson
Music promoted by Audio Library • Last Summer - Ikson (N...
![Cordae - Saturday Mornings (feat. Lil Wayne) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z2GYJua09F0/mqdefault.jpg)
Enjoying watching this series.... inspirational stuff. Keep it going
Nice one! 👍🏻
Excellent. Very useful.
Nice honest video...... Well done pal. I have to tackle my drive and front area...... So I am looking for knowledge and guidance......
Same sort of problem myself having to carry all the subbase through the house due ot no side access. Long and hard process. Wish they made the compactor more smaller for a women to use - I used manuel compacting tool which took ages, so you doing it inpsired me to continue.
U could of used your long level and screened off the hardcore ? Good idea with the string ms too by the way 👍🏼
Hi, thanks for your inspiring video. Could you write down all tools/equipment as well as other requirements you used to fully complete this work please? Thanks in advance.
I'm doing this as we speak; I got sick of the stakes and string and just setup my laser level. now I can go anywhere on the patio and pop my ruler down and get a nice laser line on the tape.
Good tip. Thanks
Fair play to you mate, more patience than me id leave the hardcore levels rough and make it up with the sand or mortar on the flags lol.
My neighbour mentioned doing this. It was probably the only part of the renovation that really drove me mad! 🤣
Glad im not the only one 😂.
Recently just done this, drove me mad trying to level the MOT.
Sharp sand compacted on top and it leveled off perfectly with a straight edge within minutes.
@@jonathanb5552 yep thats the one mate, fck trying to level harcore lol.
Nice work! I recently laid my lawn, which is on a gradient. In order to achieve a perfectly flat (although tilted) surface I used scaffold poles in a train track like config. I set the poles so that the top of scaffold poles were the finish height of the lawn). This allowed me to fill up and scrape away excess soil with a spirit level.
That’s great, I may try this at some point if I do something similar again 👍🏻
Attach the spirit level to a 4x2 or 3x2 the length/width of the base
🙏🙏
Can I use ballast for the hardcore? You make it look so easy.
I’m not 100% sure. But it is quite straightforward once you start. Seems daunting at first, but once you get into the swing of things, it’s not too bad! Good luck with your project 👍🏻
You can't use ballast as it doesn't bind together enough as the particles are too fine and will just wash away.
I was worried the stone would push through the membrane when compacting
Nice one mate, your vidao gave me a boost to do it myself! I have about 20 sqm space, how many bulk bags of hardcore would I need any ideas?
I had 2 bulk bags for my patio and it was about 11 sqm so 4 may do the job for you.
@@NoviceGardener may have missed it but depth were you aiming for on your type 1?
100mm, but that’s just at a minimum
Great video, I’m doing the same in my back garden but the area has an original layer of sand rather than soil. Thoughts on just putting the membrane down and then the hardcore on top? Do you think it’ll be okay?
Cheers 👍🏻
I recon you’d be sound doing that, shouldn’t be an issue.
@@NoviceGardener cheers fella. Keep up the grind!
How many tonnes of hardcore did you use for this area pls ?
I think it was either 2 tonne or 3 tonne of hardcore. I may have replied to an earlier comment with the exact number. Sorry I can't be of more help!
How much hard-core did you use please?
I used 3 bulk bags if I'm remembering right. About 1 ton each.
@NoviceGardener what was a price for.a 1.ton bag
I thought you had to use the white landscaping fabric as well as the black on grass areas to prevent the grass coming through
You can do it with both. Nothing has come through as of yet thankfully.
The main reason for using geotextile/ landscaping fabric is to separate the sub base material from the subsoil as over time they would mix. It also is used to for filtration and to improve the ground stability. People call it weed membrane as that is what it is primarily sold as in the likes of b&q and wickes etc. But this is more true if you are using to under some decorative stone or mulch on flower beds as when using it 100mm+ underground it is unlikely any grass will grow through anyway due to lack of photosynthesis.
Typically I wouldn't recommend using the stuff in 1 meter rolls as it will only help with the separating of the sub-base from the sub-soil and is better in the 1.5 - 2.25m rolls as it'll help improve the ground stability, this can be done with the 1m stuff but it needs pegging to the ground.
The difference between the black and white is that the white is non woven and has better filtration properties than the black woven geotextile which isn't suitable for permeable drainage situations.
You need to dig down further, sub base should be a min of 100mm.
You can save time and money by using a old method to replace the mot sub base, just use the soil thats already there as a sub base but first you need to level the ground to an inch higher than where the mot subbase height would be then dig it to 4 inches deep and mix with cement at 1/4 ratio thats 1 part cement 4 parts soil then spray with water ( not too much just enough to wet the cement ) now the last step is compact it with a hand held rammer or a 4x4 fence post untill its compacted enought that it wont give when you walk over it, water it in a few days again.
job done if you get the water mix correct you will have a croncrete like sub base in a week that will not shift over time and will easily handle the weight of pavers plus people.
its an interesting concept but Im not sure it would be easier as you would have to make sure its mixed correctly in a mixer and that makes it time consuming.
Maybe worth trying on a small area.
You can just mix with a spade and a rake it doesn't need mixing in a mixer
@@yeah-nawould cement be cheaper than purchasing a ton of hardcore MOT