I think the flex is spot on for that application especially since it's so close , we're just hard wired to view things being more symmetrical as better but the job often calls for something else. Nice work btw and I'm also overly critical of myself 😅 so I understand your pov.
Brilliant to see you always looking for improvement bros 👍🏼. I think the flex is all good, if you wanted to try it though, you can use an electrical internal spring bender to create an offset in the hard drawn. Great work 👏🏼👊🏼
Thats a good idea bro. I've never actually used those conduit springs but I think I'll end up buying some. I'm always looking to improve! Thanks for the idea 🤙🏼
@@rowdoradge haha I thought that’s what you might of meant but then I googled nitro tape lol and there actually is such a thing that looks half decent 😂
@@maracservices 👍 Honestly I think the UV spray will probably look better however I'm not sure how effective it will be. What I like about wrapping is that I have installs 5+ years ago that still look undamaged. Tape has faded but lagging is still spongey and fresh underneath.
Insted of Galv nuts and bolts ( the ones with the unit are already Galv) It’s as you are near the coast the air has salt in it and is very corrosive. I’m a spark in the UK near the coast so I always use stainless steel fixings or brass as it’s all that lasts.
I completely agree, living near the coast is a very harsh environment. The crazy thing is, the bolts on those brackets seem to rust even in places no where near the coast. So I think I'll do what you recommended and invest in some stainless bolts especially if the installs are on the coast. Thanks for the advice mate!
@@maracservices no problem at all, also just a note. Stainless steel fixing require stainless steel tools otherwise the stainless contaminates and will corroded. Good luck 😉
Nice neat work! For the lagging exposed to the sun I use Aluminium tape. I found Duct tape, black lagging or the stock paircoil lagging just disintegrates after a while. Have you used internal bending springs for paircoil?
Thanks man. That’s a good idea, I need to start using something because like you said, the insulation lasts like a year then it’s already starting to perish. In regards to the internal bending springs, I used them once and I found when I took them out of the pipe it would leave bits of plastic inside the pipe (admittedly you could probably avoid this if there wasn’t a burr on the pipe) so I never really used them after that. I use my external bending springs all the time though. The internal bending springs were like a fluro green bit of rubber if that’s what you are talking about?
If you deburr before putting them in that helps with that issue. I find them so much easier than external springs. But yeah the Aluminium tape is a must try man 👍
Thanks mate! So it costs me $348.84 for a 10kg bottle of R410a. For what ever reason, I can only get a 9kg bottle of R32 which costs me $574.31. So it’s more expensive and more flammable. I’d say it’s a good thing you are still using 410a over there to be honest.
Interesting, I get 25 lbs or 11.3 kilo of 410 for around $475 usd. Believe it or not I can buy virgin r22 but it's $1500 usd. We still got a bunch of 22 units going. Hacks will top them off with r422b or r407c those cost same as r410.
@@VinceCuzmono that’s is very interesting. So I can go to my local wholesaler (I think you guys call it a supply house) and buy a 10kilo bottle of R410a for $348 AUD. Or I could buy an 11 kilo bottle of R410a from the US for $696 AUD (I converted your figure to AUD). Does that mean you are paying more for refrigerant (Freon) over there? Surely not. In regards to the R22. It’s the exact same over here mate. Still have old units and people are doing the same thing with R407. A 12kilo bottle of brand new R22 costs me $1977.55 AUD. Crazy stuff.
You should stop using the phrase "I'm not perfect by any means". You're more conscientious than the average tradesman. I've seen some terrible workmanship, especially on government sites, done by "approved" companies. Give yourself some credit !
the amount of time to do a job well really adds up. well done
Thanks mate
I think the flex is spot on for that application especially since it's so close , we're just hard wired to view things being more symmetrical as better but the job often calls for something else. Nice work btw and I'm also overly critical of myself 😅 so I understand your pov.
Haha thanks mate. I appreciate that. I’m very critical of myself, especially when other techs are watching 😅
Brilliant to see you always looking for improvement bros 👍🏼.
I think the flex is all good, if you wanted to try it though, you can use an electrical internal spring bender to create an offset in the hard drawn.
Great work 👏🏼👊🏼
Thats a good idea bro. I've never actually used those conduit springs but I think I'll end up buying some. I'm always looking to improve! Thanks for the idea 🤙🏼
I wrap with Nitro black tape. Keeps UV damage to minimum. Looks sharper than white lagging.
That’s a great idea. I’m going to grab some and start using it. Thanks!
@@maracservices Lol autocorrect I meant Nitto.
Denso PVC SA outerwrap tape is good too.
@@rowdoradge haha I thought that’s what you might of meant but then I googled nitro tape lol and there actually is such a thing that looks half decent 😂
@@maracservices 👍
Honestly I think the UV spray will probably look better however I'm not sure how effective it will be.
What I like about wrapping is that I have installs 5+ years ago that still look undamaged. Tape has faded but lagging is still spongey and fresh underneath.
Insted of Galv nuts and bolts ( the ones with the unit are already Galv)
It’s as you are near the coast the air has salt in it and is very corrosive.
I’m a spark in the UK near the coast so I always use stainless steel fixings or brass as it’s all that lasts.
I completely agree, living near the coast is a very harsh environment. The crazy thing is, the bolts on those brackets seem to rust even in places no where near the coast. So I think I'll do what you recommended and invest in some stainless bolts especially if the installs are on the coast. Thanks for the advice mate!
@@maracservices no problem at all, also just a note. Stainless steel fixing require stainless steel tools otherwise the stainless contaminates and will corroded. Good luck 😉
@@Beariam24 oh wow, I honestly didn’t know that. Cheers 👍🏻
@@maracservices no worries buddy. Very jealous of your local. Looks like a heck of a place to live and work.
Nice neat work! For the lagging exposed to the sun I use Aluminium tape. I found Duct tape, black lagging or the stock paircoil lagging just disintegrates after a while. Have you used internal bending springs for paircoil?
Thanks man. That’s a good idea, I need to start using something because like you said, the insulation lasts like a year then it’s already starting to perish. In regards to the internal bending springs, I used them once and I found when I took them out of the pipe it would leave bits of plastic inside the pipe (admittedly you could probably avoid this if there wasn’t a burr on the pipe) so I never really used them after that. I use my external bending springs all the time though. The internal bending springs were like a fluro green bit of rubber if that’s what you are talking about?
If you deburr before putting them in that helps with that issue. I find them so much easier than external springs. But yeah the Aluminium tape is a must try man 👍
@@jonathonwilliams6722 Sweet as dude, I’ll give it a go 🤙🏼
Great attention to detail! Don't really see r32 in the states yet. When you buy a cylinder of r32 how does the cost compare to r410?
Thanks mate!
So it costs me $348.84 for a 10kg bottle of R410a. For what ever reason, I can only get a 9kg bottle of R32 which costs me $574.31. So it’s more expensive and more flammable. I’d say it’s a good thing you are still using 410a over there to be honest.
Interesting, I get 25 lbs or 11.3 kilo of 410 for around $475 usd. Believe it or not I can buy virgin r22 but it's $1500 usd. We still got a bunch of 22 units going. Hacks will top them off with r422b or r407c those cost same as r410.
@@VinceCuzmono that’s is very interesting. So I can go to my local wholesaler (I think you guys call it a supply house) and buy a 10kilo bottle of R410a for $348 AUD. Or I could buy an 11 kilo bottle of R410a from the US for $696 AUD (I converted your figure to AUD). Does that mean you are paying more for refrigerant (Freon) over there? Surely not. In regards to the R22. It’s the exact same over here mate. Still have old units and people are doing the same thing with R407. A 12kilo bottle of brand new R22 costs me $1977.55 AUD. Crazy stuff.
I really wonder why the R32 units are so much smaller than the R410A units. I think the R410A units look better though.
Great Nice
Thanks
Great job. I would just like to ask what type of guage and vacuum pump do you use for r32 gas? Is it the same as 410a?
Yeah mate it’s the same gauge. I use Rothenburg but yep, it’s the same fitting for R410a and R32.
You should stop using the phrase "I'm not perfect by any means". You're more conscientious than the average tradesman. I've seen some terrible workmanship, especially on government sites, done by "approved" companies. Give yourself some credit !
Thanks heaps mate. I appreciate the comment!
Btus ?
7kw = 24000btu