how about that TPR, its real rubber, grippy doesnt slip like TPU, only printer ive seen print it is the atomstack cambrian, which it was designed for, and even there the results arent perfect, but with the right temp settings/ nozzle size other printers could be capable?
I've not seen any other FDM printer tick all of these boxes for such a low price. I wanted something direct drive with automatic levelling, which doesn't need upgrading out of the box. At £190 they've managed that plus all of the other creature comforts. I thought the Kobra was good value, but wow. Can't wait for mine to arrive!
Thanks for this video! I got my printer a few days ago and the quality of the machine and print quality have been amazing! One question I need to clear up though is that I keep seeing people print PETG and Nylons on this pushing temp temps above 235-260, Elegoo's website even says the printer can do 260 but logic tells me that if it has a PTFE tube inside then its gonna start melting at 230. So what is the correct answer here?
love the review! I'm thinking of returning my Ender 3 s1 Plus for the Neptune 3 plus... Its my second S1 plus and it has the same ABL/ bed leveling issue over 2 machines, I spent weeks tinkering with these machines and haven't been able to get a clean bed level test. hopefully ill have better luck with the Neptune
@@St00One eh.. I returned one after basically disassembling it entirely and rebuilding it properly. last ditch I flashed the new firmware, which made it worse so re-flashed the stock. I'm having similar issues with the new one, every time I home and get it ready for manual leveling [after adjusting z offset] it makes it so one corner is basically completely loose and others overtightened. to work around it I turn the printer off and manually level from there. after that I run ABL and the mesh it takes doesn't work at all because every bed level test i do is pretty bad. If I manage to get the print going from the first layer its good but I'm very dissatisfied with the initial layer. so pretty bummed, it looks like a beautiful machine but I haven't gotten it to work as I like
@@ryomabrunel8710They say that small printers 220 * 220 * 250 do not have such a problem. I watched reviews of Cobra Max, reviews are good on the first layer. If you're lucky. Good luck. I am waiting for a package with Sovol SV01 Pro and SV06.
Great video! One covering actually replacing the piece of ptfe tubing that will need it sometime would be another great video. Also any way to add a all metal heat break to eliminate the ptfe tubing. Finally printer replacement parts? This as you said it quite a good out of the box printer but could be great with a few diy upgrades.
The extruder uses Bondtech designed hob gears and the whole assembly copies the Sprite almost to a tee. I look at that X axis and I think linear rail upgrade.
At the moment Neptune 3 Pro seems to be a great first printer, but not the one some enthusiast would be able to tinker with without building a whole new machine. It's not a bad thing per se, but it would be good to know. Besides the all-metal hotend there is just one other upgrade I found so far: an additional thermal insulation layer for the build plate.
My previous purchase has been the Ender 3 S1, which has been basically almost flawless since I bought it and have put 2 rolls through it. I am considering anohter, but then this Neptune 3 Pro has come out as well as the Voxelab D1...hard choices these days.
Ya I got contest match on the dad joke but great Chanel I might even get into 3d printing with this one I’m a tec kinda person but it look 👀 complicated. So fun! Keep up the great work and have a merry Christmas 🎄
I didn't see anyone rip a fan wire off in this video, but I did see a torx bit used to drive a hex head at 5:46 👀 The hotend fan turning off below 50C (almost certainly measured on the nozzle, as there's already a thermistor there) is a standard prusa thing, so not unique, but still nice to see
I’ve been trying to find a slicer that is compatible with the Neptune 3pro. Would you know of any. I’ve tried elegoos l version of cura but It won’t let me download it. Thanks for your help. 😉
Would this printer still be a good starter printer recommendation? I almost pulled the trigger on the N4P, but saw a couple of videos saying that it has alignment issues that are a problem for functional prints that require high accuracy. Have you found this to be the case? I noticed on Amazon that the NP4 as meh reviews, while the NP3 has good reviews, for whatever that's worth
Is there an aftermarket metal heatbreak that could allow this to print at slightly higher temps? There are some Nylons I'd like to try that have upper ranges at 280-290c.
Really nice reviews ! i'm currently debating whether to get this or the sv06 i 'm planning on printing things such as nylon and pla+ mainly with some tpu and petg from time to time. Also btw isn't the hot end all metal on the N3 pro ? they say it is on their website, allthough i could be wrong
@@LostInTech3D oh alright ! thanks ! i really thought its all metal since that's what they say on their page so i guess i should stick with the sovol sv06 ? what is your professional opinion for someone who wants to print robot parts made with nylon and such
Given how LA is easy to include, I must assume it's just an oversight not to ship the device with it? Wondering how easy it'd be to replace - some fans for more silent versions. Lowering that by 5 to 10 dB would make a world of difference - the heat break for a full metal one Gread vid! Thanks :D
@@PJPEE i went for the s1 pro, price difference came to 130 euros. The better hotend is nice too, but the support en information out there for the s1 and s1 pro is way better then the neptune 3 pro at this moment. And the neptune is out off stock everywhere…
Sold out in the U.S. already. Put in my info and it sold out half way through. I want to wait but they don’t have when it will be in stock again. Any recommendations for a beginner?
Im just new in the 3D printing world and want to know which 3D printer should I buy First. And which one is better to upgrade in the future. The neptune 3 pro, Sovol SV06 or other one in that Budget (200-300€)?
I have a heavily modded flsun qq s pro but I am just tired of the backlash and play in the effector. Circles are just not circles and I spend too much time and money to improve this. Now I am wondering to just get something like the Neptune 3 pro instead. I would love to just take my parts and build a new bedslinger or core x y printer with that but I am pretty sure that would end up costing more. That being said I have a few questions. What hotend does the Neptune 3 pro use? How easily could I just put an E3D revo in there instead? What size is the hotend fan and do you think it is possible to mod dual 5015 fans in there for part cooling? Besides that I wonder how much using something like an orbiter stepper motor would help improve print quality by saving weight or if it isn't really worth it to do. Either way putting a revo in it and using klipper would hopefully be a fairly simple upgrade resulting in an awesome end product. I can't think of much more to actually improve the printer which is awesome for the price.
@@LostInTech3D thought the same, thats something i dont like about such super compact extruder/hotend combos, you are rather locked in terms of what hotends you can use. Most hotends still use the m6 thread, so you could add a volcano, dragonfly or copperhead heater block, but changing the ecosystem isnt really possible
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 If you can afford a Revo then look at the Hermit Crab which makes swapping tools easy. This adds more weight but I wonder if that matters if you are using input shaper.
I'm probably going to pick up this printer. I may try to sell my Ender 3 Pro to offset the cost. I don't have a need for two printers. But right now my Ender is set up to almost perfection so I'd hate to get rid of it. It still lacks some of the features that this has. Mainly auto bed leveling and filaments runout sensor. I know I can add those things but I don't want to spend any more money on it.
the first 3 and 4 day working perfect and ther started quit and reboot i return to amazon and get a replacement and work good 3 days , my lest printer almost finish and printer quit look like to the first one. Thank you for reply
Sad about the linear advance, but nobody complained about that with creality or anycubic machines, at least anycubics could enable that in the firmware, creality only rather recently
You would need to add the relevant chip, and I assume also run a marlin build with the functionality enabled. I think uncle Jessy did it back on the Neptune 2. If you try, let me know 👍😁
It does come back into stock reasonably frequently as far as I can tell, a fair few people on our discord have had relatively little trouble getting one. The plus and max might be a bit harder to get, but again, same deal.
Great Review, Thinking about buying either this one or a used SW 01. Love everything about the printer, just the size is kinda small for what I am planning. Any experience with buying used printers from ebay?
Used printers are often customer returns. The seller does not want to deal with the return so they redirect them to another customers as used. It may just be a blocked nozzle so it is a raffle.
Just ordered mine today, really excited for it :) Also great review. Do you think it will be hard to upgrade the hotend to an all metal one? I may want to print higher temp materials in the future and almost bought the Sovol SV06 for that reason, hope that wasn't a mistake.
I just got this printer, I set it up and even printed the Buddha with flawless results. Super pleased with how easy it all was. So what decided to try printing a model of a file I got from a Patreon I pay for. I put it into cura and downloaded it to the SD card that came with the printer. For the life of me I can’t figure out what is going on, everytime I put the sd into the printer it only sees the Buddha file and none of the other ones. Am I doing something wrong? I tried looking it up and can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong. Excellent video by the way! I figured I’d ask a pro before drop kick this printer into the wall 😂.
Can anyone make a video on what slicer to use and profile other then Cura slicer. Some odd reason my pc wont run Cura smoothly.. please help.. btw awesome video.. I just received my EN3Pro today but the slicer software in the tft card keep locking up.
you can use any slicer you want on this, just use an ender 3 profile but change retraction to 1mm ish, and then tune it from there, but it won't need much!
If there is a socket for an extra stepper motor then dual independent z motors and leadscrews would be better than stock and you can dump the belt on the leadscrews, I dont know why Elegoo did not do this.
Thanks for your Video! I preordered one :) It should be possible to use Heatbreaks from the Ender 3 S1, don't you think? Therefore i could print PETG with less worries..
@@LostInTech3D Just red the other comments.. could have done that before :D So i will probably buy one and test ist out. Ah - thanks for this tip! What Temperature did you use for PETG/TPU? I'm fairly new to the topic - so thanks for your reply so far. Maybe i could use PETG/TPU with lower temperatures. I red that at temps above 230°C it is bad for the PTFE Tubing. What i've still not found out: Why is there in the all metal hot ends e.g. ender 3 s1 pro also a PTFE Tube inside? Couldn't they usw completely metal extruders and not an heat break? Edit: Found on Aliexpress a Kit for the Sprite Extruder for 20€ incl. shipping - i will test this out.
@@daencr8678 on "all metal" the ptfe tube goes to the heatsink and no further, so it's significantly cooler....hey I'm actually working on a video about this, which will explain everything :)
@@LostInTech3D Can you change the heat break and do a comparison? Also compare a cheap bimetallic to an expensive one. Does not have to be on this printer.
How worse/different is the Neptune 2S? I'm looking at getting my first 3D printer I was torn between the Ender Neo V2 and Neptune 2S... but now, seeing this video, this one also jumped into the ring
@@LostInTech3D I can, I was even just checking and the Neptune 3 Pro is sold out for the EU. But with your feedback I maybe won't mind missing this sale and buying it next year
Biggest downside I've come across is when printing from Octoprint is the printer ignores M600 filament change commands and just keeps printing. If I print from the SD card, it parks the nozzle and I can change filament for multicolour prints. Octoapp on my phone will alert to the filament change so it's being sent, the printer just doesn't do it. I hope this is a firmware bug that they can fix.
Just checked and you can pre-order now. There will no doubt be better machines out by the time it arrives Don't be fooled by the pre-order price, I bought a Saturn 2 on pre-order and you can get it cheaper on sale now.
It's making me angry that not a single printer manufacturer on small printers uses large belts Like 10 or 12mm On the y-axis where it makes the most difference cuz heavy
I just want to say that we've been screaming at elegoo on the neptune 3 subreddit for the screen source code and some aspects of the marlin firmware so your statement about them sharing source code is false.
They have no obligation to share the screen source code, most of the time companies don't, if I understand correctly? I will mention it though as it would be nice.
@@LostInTech3D its a standard dwin display. it wouldn't be a problem if some of the aspects of controlling the printer weren't tied to the screen firmware. we're also worried that now that this thing is out, despite the boards being virtually the same, elegoo is going to abandon firmware updates on the non pro 3. i got my neptune 3 and for the amount of money i paid it's been mostly great. but the fact that there's a lot you can't change about this printer without running into roadblocks in firmware is really annoying. for example i believe filament changes just don't work in octoprint because print monitoring is not enabled.
No! You didn't show the other side of the extruder so we can see how constrained the filament path is. 😖.....ahhh That's possibly what makes the difference. Not the gears, but the constraint of the path. The gears are only half the equation.
Well then you'll have to buy one and find out 😂 I was talking about the issues from the video before, rather than being concerned about the constraint, which is why I was looking at the gears.
@@LostInTech3D haha, don't mean to be an ingrate, and love your videos. I just keep waiting for it to come, but alas, no peak...ps, what up with that weird nozzle from the FLsun?
So the only things that are missing: The display firmware sourcecode so we can update it to full self compiled marlin And a all metal hotend to switch it, for ABS and nylon printing
I ABSOLUTE HATE the sprite extruder ... its garbage and i can tell you why and the main difference of that and this elegoo pro... the sprite extruder gears are flat and your filament gets alot of play internally because of it and it causes inconsistent extrusions ,, look at 90% of the posts from the S1 and S1 pro from top down light its almost impossible to get perfect layers, The elegoo however has grooved gears that help the filament find " its spot" and feeds evenly no side to side play. And that is why im selling my S1 and getting this. i did HOUR and HOURS of trouble shooting to come to that conclusion and put mine up with someone who has a S1 pro and we both have same "Flaws" in our prints as everyone else they seem blind to
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
This printer is amazing for TPU… only other machine I’ve had this simple of time with TPU is the x1 carbon. Fantastic video!
Hey! Thanks! Yeah this thing is insane with flexibles, I saw your bag vid 👀👍
The Thinkpad?
My Neptune 2 surprisingly tackles TPU pretty well. I'm eyeing the 3P now, it looks amazing!
@@rudeskalamander not sure if srs, Bambu labs carbon x1
how about that TPR, its real rubber, grippy doesnt slip like TPU, only printer ive seen print it is the atomstack cambrian, which it was designed for, and even there the results arent perfect, but with the right temp settings/ nozzle size other printers could be capable?
This info is really thorough and helpful when looking at 3D printer walkthroughs and reviews.
I've not seen any other FDM printer tick all of these boxes for such a low price. I wanted something direct drive with automatic levelling, which doesn't need upgrading out of the box. At £190 they've managed that plus all of the other creature comforts. I thought the Kobra was good value, but wow. Can't wait for mine to arrive!
the fact that it s cheaper that the ender 3 v2 is just scary
My brother youre a man of your word
I already ordered one thank you for your "leak" earlier so i didnt get the neptune 3 before that
You are welcome :)
Thanks for this video! I got my printer a few days ago and the quality of the machine and print quality have been amazing! One question I need to clear up though is that I keep seeing people print PETG and Nylons on this pushing temp temps above 235-260, Elegoo's website even says the printer can do 260 but logic tells me that if it has a PTFE tube inside then its gonna start melting at 230. So what is the correct answer here?
It is still working
?
love the review! I'm thinking of returning my Ender 3 s1 Plus for the Neptune 3 plus... Its my second S1 plus and it has the same ABL/ bed leveling issue over 2 machines, I spent weeks tinkering with these machines and haven't been able to get a clean bed level test. hopefully ill have better luck with the Neptune
Really?
They say that the Ender S1 is super-quality.
P.S. Changed my mind about buying S1 PLUS, ordered SV01 PRO.
@@St00One eh.. I returned one after basically disassembling it entirely and rebuilding it properly. last ditch I flashed the new firmware, which made it worse so re-flashed the stock. I'm having similar issues with the new one, every time I home and get it ready for manual leveling [after adjusting z offset] it makes it so one corner is basically completely loose and others overtightened. to work around it I turn the printer off and manually level from there. after that I run ABL and the mesh it takes doesn't work at all because every bed level test i do is pretty bad. If I manage to get the print going from the first layer its good but I'm very dissatisfied with the initial layer. so pretty bummed, it looks like a beautiful machine but I haven't gotten it to work as I like
@@ryomabrunel8710 How many printers S1 PLUS do you have? Are everyone problematic with defects?
Sorry. Big pain when a hobby is not a joy.
@@ryomabrunel8710They say that small printers 220 * 220 * 250 do not have such a problem. I watched reviews of Cobra Max, reviews are good on the first layer. If you're lucky.
Good luck.
I am waiting for a package with Sovol SV01 Pro and SV06.
I buy and sell a lot of 3D Printers and I find by the time the printers are available retail, they can be cheaper than the pre-order price.
Great video! One covering actually replacing the piece of ptfe tubing that will need it sometime would be another great video. Also any way to add a all metal heat break to eliminate the ptfe tubing. Finally printer replacement parts?
This as you said it quite a good out of the box printer but could be great with a few diy upgrades.
The extruder uses Bondtech designed hob gears and the whole assembly copies the Sprite almost to a tee. I look at that X axis and I think linear rail upgrade.
At the moment Neptune 3 Pro seems to be a great first printer, but not the one some enthusiast would be able to tinker with without building a whole new machine. It's not a bad thing per se, but it would be good to know. Besides the all-metal hotend there is just one other upgrade I found so far: an additional thermal insulation layer for the build plate.
My previous purchase has been the Ender 3 S1, which has been basically almost flawless since I bought it and have put 2 rolls through it. I am considering anohter, but then this Neptune 3 Pro has come out as well as the Voxelab D1...hard choices these days.
Ya I got contest match on the dad joke but great Chanel I might even get into 3d printing with this one I’m a tec kinda person but it look 👀 complicated. So fun! Keep up the great work and have a merry Christmas 🎄
I didn't see anyone rip a fan wire off in this video, but I did see a torx bit used to drive a hex head at 5:46 👀
The hotend fan turning off below 50C (almost certainly measured on the nozzle, as there's already a thermistor there) is a standard prusa thing, so not unique, but still nice to see
Haha torx is just hex with dents in it 😂
i'd like to mention that this is the robin nano v2.2, which is missing the BLTouch pins. The V2.1 still has them.
I’ve been trying to find a slicer that is compatible with the Neptune 3pro.
Would you know of any.
I’ve tried elegoos l version of cura but It won’t let me download it.
Thanks for your help. 😉
Would this printer still be a good starter printer recommendation? I almost pulled the trigger on the N4P, but saw a couple of videos saying that it has alignment issues that are a problem for functional prints that require high accuracy. Have you found this to be the case? I noticed on Amazon that the NP4 as meh reviews, while the NP3 has good reviews, for whatever that's worth
Is there an aftermarket metal heatbreak that could allow this to print at slightly higher temps? There are some Nylons I'd like to try that have upper ranges at 280-290c.
I don't know - I'll look into this a bit later because I'm revisiting the neptune 3 pro in a week or two
Really nice reviews ! i'm currently debating whether to get this or the sv06 i 'm planning on printing things such as nylon and pla+ mainly with some tpu and petg from time to time.
Also btw isn't the hot end all metal on the N3 pro ? they say it is on their website, allthough i could be wrong
It's not all metal, no. So it won't be suitable for nylon. Pla+ is fine. Petg is also generally ok.
@@LostInTech3D oh alright ! thanks ! i really thought its all metal since that's what they say on their page
so i guess i should stick with the sovol sv06 ? what is your professional opinion for someone who wants to print robot parts made with nylon and such
I have had a front weighted direct drive for several months and haven't ran into noticeable difference in wear of the wheels
same i have a rock 3 490g+ on 3 wheels
Given how LA is easy to include, I must assume it's just an oversight not to ship the device with it?
Wondering how easy it'd be to replace
- some fans for more silent versions. Lowering that by 5 to 10 dB would make a world of difference
- the heat break for a full metal one
Gread vid! Thanks :D
Good questions, I guess some of those answers will emerge over time. The fans though are all standard sizes.
The extra stepper motor could be used for dual extrusion
Looks like a much nicer S1 Pro, tempting, but I do wish it was all metal. Hotend fan turning off is cool though
Would you recommend the S1 pro which is 400 euros, or the elegoo for 240
@@GamesKnowYou I'd be going elegoo, upgrade any bits with the extra money you save
@@PJPEE i went for the s1 pro, price difference came to 130 euros. The better hotend is nice too, but the support en information out there for the s1 and s1 pro is way better then the neptune 3 pro at this moment. And the neptune is out off stock everywhere…
@@GamesKnowYou ah yea, the stock has been pretty rough, makes the choice for you then
Sold out in the U.S. already. Put in my info and it sold out half way through. I want to wait but they don’t have when it will be in stock again. Any recommendations for a beginner?
I will ask about stock
I asked, apparently there are units expected to be available in the USA within around 1-2 weeks. 👍
Im just new in the 3D printing world and want to know which 3D printer should I buy First. And which one is better to upgrade in the future. The neptune 3 pro, Sovol SV06 or other one in that Budget (200-300€)?
can't wait to receive mine😍
I have a heavily modded flsun qq s pro but I am just tired of the backlash and play in the effector. Circles are just not circles and I spend too much time and money to improve this. Now I am wondering to just get something like the Neptune 3 pro instead. I would love to just take my parts and build a new bedslinger or core x y printer with that but I am pretty sure that would end up costing more.
That being said I have a few questions. What hotend does the Neptune 3 pro use? How easily could I just put an E3D revo in there instead? What size is the hotend fan and do you think it is possible to mod dual 5015 fans in there for part cooling? Besides that I wonder how much using something like an orbiter stepper motor would help improve print quality by saving weight or if it isn't really worth it to do.
Either way putting a revo in it and using klipper would hopefully be a fairly simple upgrade resulting in an awesome end product. I can't think of much more to actually improve the printer which is awesome for the price.
You would have to swap out pretty much everything on the carriage to put a Revo in.
@@LostInTech3D thought the same, thats something i dont like about such super compact extruder/hotend combos, you are rather locked in terms of what hotends you can use. Most hotends still use the m6 thread, so you could add a volcano, dragonfly or copperhead heater block, but changing the ecosystem isnt really possible
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 If you can afford a Revo then look at the Hermit Crab which makes swapping tools easy. This adds more weight but I wonder if that matters if you are using input shaper.
I'm probably going to pick up this printer. I may try to sell my Ender 3 Pro to offset the cost. I don't have a need for two printers. But right now my Ender is set up to almost perfection so I'd hate to get rid of it. It still lacks some of the features that this has. Mainly auto bed leveling and filaments runout sensor. I know I can add those things but I don't want to spend any more money on it.
Neptune 3 pro or Sovol SV06? Which 1 to choose?
Either, or both!
How you getting that to stick without raft or brim?
70C...it makes a huge diff
do you have a problem your printer reboot on middle of printer ,first stop and 5 second after the screen reboot and i lost the printer
I do not! this sounds like maybe an sd card issue, try that first
the first 3 and 4 day working perfect and ther started quit and reboot i return to amazon and get a replacement and work good 3 days , my lest printer almost finish and printer quit look like to the first one. Thank you for reply
Does it come with the same ingenious filament sensor (with fork light barrier monitoring filament movement) as the Neptune 3?
No it's just a standard filament sensor this time. Also I think it was a roller/mouse wheel encoder on the neptune 3, if I remember correctly
Sad about the linear advance, but nobody complained about that with creality or anycubic machines, at least anycubics could enable that in the firmware, creality only rather recently
Yeah the answer is just to print a bit slower, 70mm/s is always going to look like this on printers without LA.
@Lost In Tech my ender 5 Pro shows it at 50mms
Is there a way to get the wifi working? I thought elegoo had to release it in an update?
You would need to add the relevant chip, and I assume also run a marlin build with the functionality enabled. I think uncle Jessy did it back on the Neptune 2. If you try, let me know 👍😁
Where can you buy this printer besides the elegoo website? It is currently out of stock where I live.
It does come back into stock reasonably frequently as far as I can tell, a fair few people on our discord have had relatively little trouble getting one. The plus and max might be a bit harder to get, but again, same deal.
How bad is this printer for PETG? I’m looking to print primarily print in PETG and want a 2nd printer that will be able to handle that.
I'm not too keen on PETG on this hotend, I'd like to see a metal heatbreak in the near future. It's possible, but I prefer metal.
Great Review, Thinking about buying either this one or a used SW 01. Love everything about the printer, just the size is kinda small for what I am planning. Any experience with buying used printers from ebay?
It's gonna depend on a lot of things, but if you buy off someone who's "fed up of their cr10", you are in for a world of pain 😅
Used printers are often customer returns. The seller does not want to deal with the return so they redirect them to another customers as used. It may just be a blocked nozzle so it is a raffle.
Just ordered mine today, really excited for it :)
Also great review. Do you think it will be hard to upgrade the hotend to an all metal one? I may want to print higher temp materials in the future and almost bought the Sovol SV06 for that reason, hope that wasn't a mistake.
Ohhhhh well you can always get both 😁👍
@@LostInTech3D that's true, just a matter of space and money. Just thought this one will be a bit more user friendly and nicer looking to start with 😂
I just got this printer, I set it up and even printed the Buddha with flawless results. Super pleased with how easy it all was. So what decided to try printing a model of a file I got from a Patreon I pay for. I put it into cura and downloaded it to the SD card that came with the printer. For the life of me I can’t figure out what is going on, everytime I put the sd into the printer it only sees the Buddha file and none of the other ones. Am I doing something wrong? I tried looking it up and can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong. Excellent video by the way! I figured I’d ask a pro before drop kick this printer into the wall 😂.
it doesn't seem to like long file names - try shorter ones. I discovered this but somehow forgot to mention it!
@@LostInTech3D ohhhhhh ok I’m gonna try that! Thank you!
no prob, I'm sure it'll work, it puzzled me for a while too!
@@LostInTech3D you were right! Thank you again! Lowered it to 8 characters and boom it’s working! Cheers!
I got the Elegoo Neptune 3 and my second layer is always messed up, can you help me by any chance?
Hop on discord and we'll try!
Which do you recommend between this Neptune 3 pro, Anycubic Kobra and Ender 3 v2 neo?
tough one, I've only used one of the three. I think the neptune is better than the ender though
@@LostInTech3D thank you
If you can only invest in 1 budget printer for long term use, would you buy this or the SV06?
Haha! 👀 both are excellent printers, it depends on your needs.
Let's hope the extrusion stickers come off easily.
You don't want to create the future? 👀
@@LostInTech3D I thought the future is already here! 😁
Can anyone make a video on what slicer to use and profile other then Cura slicer. Some odd reason my pc wont run Cura smoothly.. please help.. btw awesome video.. I just received my EN3Pro today but the slicer software in the tft card keep locking up.
you can use any slicer you want on this, just use an ender 3 profile but change retraction to 1mm ish, and then tune it from there, but it won't need much!
If there is a socket for an extra stepper motor then dual independent z motors and leadscrews would be better than stock and you can dump the belt on the leadscrews, I dont know why Elegoo did not do this.
At a guess, because dual motors have their own downsides, and people complain about having to run the gantry sync gcode...
Thanks for your Video! I preordered one :)
It should be possible to use Heatbreaks from the Ender 3 S1, don't you think? Therefore i could print PETG with less worries..
Oh! No idea! If so then great but I feel like you'd need to improve the cooling for like 300C, no issue for PETG temps. I might look into that!
@@LostInTech3D Just red the other comments.. could have done that before :D
So i will probably buy one and test ist out. Ah - thanks for this tip!
What Temperature did you use for PETG/TPU?
I'm fairly new to the topic - so thanks for your reply so far. Maybe i could use PETG/TPU with lower temperatures.
I red that at temps above 230°C it is bad for the PTFE Tubing.
What i've still not found out: Why is there in the all metal hot ends e.g. ender 3 s1 pro also a PTFE Tube inside? Couldn't they usw completely metal extruders and not an heat break?
Edit: Found on Aliexpress a Kit for the Sprite Extruder for 20€ incl. shipping - i will test this out.
@@daencr8678 on "all metal" the ptfe tube goes to the heatsink and no further, so it's significantly cooler....hey I'm actually working on a video about this, which will explain everything :)
@@LostInTech3D All right - but could you tell me which Temperature you used for TPU or will you describe it in another Video?
I will, but I need people to test my tpu profile if they are willing to be guinea pigs, so come to discord and I'll send it :)
This one, or the Ender 3 S1?
Mostly want to print PETG...
ehhhh petg at the hotter end likes an all metal hotend.
@@LostInTech3D So, the Ender 3 S1 Pro?!
@@LostInTech3D Can you change the heat break and do a comparison? Also compare a cheap bimetallic to an expensive one. Does not have to be on this printer.
7:06 PrintABlok? You've got excellent taste.
Every time I turn a printer on I hear "Are you printing printablok?" from the next room 😂
@@LostInTech3D guess I need to make more.
Yes, yes you do!
thank you for answering me
How worse/different is the Neptune 2S? I'm looking at getting my first 3D printer I was torn between the Ender Neo V2 and Neptune 2S... but now, seeing this video, this one also jumped into the ring
Can you still buy the 2S? I like mine, but it's not got any of the bells and whistles, so I guess a bit dated now.
@@LostInTech3D I can, I was even just checking and the Neptune 3 Pro is sold out for the EU. But with your feedback I maybe won't mind missing this sale and buying it next year
I haven't specifically asked about the EU but I know more stock is on the way at least in some places, so I guess hang on and see 👍
Could you build helmets on this?
for a cat maybe. You'd need the plus for a person.
@@LostInTech3D would i have to print it in parts to make it human size then?
What about vs the sv06?
doing it - stay tuned
far too many good printers dropping this time of year. so tempted to pick up a new one for the mini farm
That looks interesting, if only I had room for another printer. Great video, thanks.
Anyone who has Prusa knew that that was an inductive probe, Mr. Gamemaster sir :P
in my defence, so would I, if it weren't hidden under the cowling :P
I thought the infinity symbol was the eyes. Like derp version of "I am your father" or something 😄
Haha yeah looks more like a dog nose to me
Elegoo trying to step up Creality Ender 3 S1
Biggest downside I've come across is when printing from Octoprint is the printer ignores M600 filament change commands and just keeps printing. If I print from the SD card, it parks the nozzle and I can change filament for multicolour prints. Octoapp on my phone will alert to the filament change so it's being sent, the printer just doesn't do it. I hope this is a firmware bug that they can fix.
did you find the solution...?
@@kodeoka Pause at height works well enough from Octoprint.
You should be able to install marlin firmware for it from a 3rd party
I'd buy one right away if it had linear advance. I no longer see that as optional.
yep
This printer looks great. I'm so mad I can't pre-order it yet. I'm in Australia and they won't ship here 😭
Wait what, are you sure? It says the ship date to AU is 24 Dec
They do ship to Australia...they have a local warehouse they ship from...
Just checked and you can pre-order now. There will no doubt be better machines out by the time it arrives Don't be fooled by the pre-order price, I bought a Saturn 2 on pre-order and you can get it cheaper on sale now.
@@LostInTech3D I ordered mine on preorder from an Australian company in early December 22 and it finally arrived last week.
4:38 pepperidge farm remembers
hehehe
Personally I always appreciate disassembly
It’s already sold out for the US 😳
More stock on the way soon I have been informed!
oo wee
It's making me angry that not a single printer manufacturer on small printers uses large belts Like 10 or 12mm On the y-axis where it makes the most difference cuz heavy
Here's the real question 🤔 can what's the quality of minis and dungeon tiles printed with it.
Good question. If you want me to try it, more than happy, point me to an STL somehow and I'll give it a go.
I just want to say that we've been screaming at elegoo on the neptune 3 subreddit for the screen source code and some aspects of the marlin firmware so your statement about them sharing source code is false.
They have no obligation to share the screen source code, most of the time companies don't, if I understand correctly?
I will mention it though as it would be nice.
@@LostInTech3D its a standard dwin display. it wouldn't be a problem if some of the aspects of controlling the printer weren't tied to the screen firmware. we're also worried that now that this thing is out, despite the boards being virtually the same, elegoo is going to abandon firmware updates on the non pro 3. i got my neptune 3 and for the amount of money i paid it's been mostly great. but the fact that there's a lot you can't change about this printer without running into roadblocks in firmware is really annoying.
for example i believe filament changes just don't work in octoprint because print monitoring is not enabled.
The filament sensor and octoprint thing is sadly unusually common
Sold out :(
Oh no! I'll see if I can get any info on that.
No! You didn't show the other side of the extruder so we can see how constrained the filament path is. 😖.....ahhh That's possibly what makes the difference. Not the gears, but the constraint of the path. The gears are only half the equation.
Well then you'll have to buy one and find out 😂 I was talking about the issues from the video before, rather than being concerned about the constraint, which is why I was looking at the gears.
@@LostInTech3D haha, don't mean to be an ingrate, and love your videos. I just keep waiting for it to come, but alas, no peak...ps, what up with that weird nozzle from the FLsun?
that weird nozzle from the FLsun it getting cut in half as soon as I get the opportunity 👀
It's too bad that it's not all metal... Look great otherwise.
So the only things that are missing:
The display firmware sourcecode so we can update it to full self compiled marlin
And a all metal hotend to switch it, for ABS and nylon printing
I ABSOLUTE HATE the sprite extruder ... its garbage and i can tell you why and the main difference of that and this elegoo pro... the sprite extruder gears are flat and your filament gets alot of play internally because of it and it causes inconsistent extrusions ,, look at 90% of the posts from the S1 and S1 pro from top down light its almost impossible to get perfect layers, The elegoo however has grooved gears that help the filament find " its spot" and feeds evenly no side to side play.
And that is why im selling my S1 and getting this. i did HOUR and HOURS of trouble shooting to come to that conclusion and put mine up with someone who has a S1 pro and we both have same "Flaws" in our prints as everyone else they seem blind to
Hey check the video I made before this 😉👍
Elegoo sucks. I emailed them about the problems I was having with the N3 and they basically just said, sorry, here's a coupon for the N3 Pro.
wow
Well I guess I dont have the whole story here, was it new? What problems? etc?
@@LostInTech3D of course it was new. The N3 hadn't been out 4 months when I bought one.
Thumbs down because of music while speaking!
lol, you could watch the subtitles and just be nice instead.
@@LostInTech3D don’t worry thumbs up to just counter his, great video I appreciate it!
Honestly, looks like it's made of cheap plastic.
👀what all metal printer are you thinking of 😁