I have not commented in quite a while. I do love your videos. I watch them on a regular basis. I just have a few suggestions, and of course it’s just an observation on my part. 1. Sell that truck once it’s tip top, and for the right price you will probably make a great profit. 2. Sell that Porsche, and if the oil is staying out of the coolant system then you got it for a song and you should make a great profit. 3. And you’re not going to like this one... Sell that Corvette, as well the Camaro. Get out from under those. 4. Consolidate all of it. Consolidate all of your insurance payments on all those vehicles.Pool that capital. 5. Invest in a good Diesel Truck, The best you can find, with all the creature comforts, bells and whistles. 6. Trade in your Chevy Cruze for a newer one, or something similar and stay on the Car rental platform if it’s making good income for you. 7. Get a proper trailer for hauling autos. And be picky. Treat that investment like you are buying another vehicle Now you should have only 2 car payments, only 2 auto insurance policies. Get your house move in ready as much as possible. 1 house payment, I house insurance policy. Get out of that rental. Consolidate and reorganize your capital. Focus on the dealership business and your You Tube videos. Consolidate, reorganize, and invest in your business. Love watching your progress.
69Phucket- Honestly, I wasn’t knocking Randy about his sportscars. Hell, I proudly own a 2007 Nissan 35OZ 6spd Enthusiasts coupe- 306 HP / 268 Ft Lbs of torque (Factory) Hellastock, just over 70,000 miles. Gifted to me by my Father because he couldn’t bring himself to sell it, let alone trade it when he bought his “practical” 2019 Acura RDX. He was the only owner, and babied the Z. Now I’m the custodian, and with the sentimental value I baby her as well. I like to go fast, so I get it. I also have a 2001 Detroit Turbo Diesel .395 V8 project. I Love Diesel Tech ! I was just suggesting that with a proper diesel truck, and especially the newer models you can have a work truck, sport car, and luxury vehicle all rolled up in one. And the MPG’s have gotten significantly better on diesel trucks. Not to mention the MANY miles you can put on them, and they still keep their value, and work hard for you. More bang for your buck is what I mean. Productions of Corvette, Camaro, and Porsche aren’t going to be halted anytime soon. There will always be others. Honestly, I was just making a “present in the now “ business priority suggestion.
He has the Corvette on turo too although I feel as if that’s more risky to have on that platform due to the fact it’s a lot faster and people could get carried away with it
You just saves my life.... The little fan in the turbo I found it this evening when I replaced my camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor and my catalytic convertor, it was inside my catalytic convertor.... I don't know if it messed it up the convertor but if it didn't then I have an extra one now that it's lol.... I'll go ahead and get a new valve cover and change it when I change my turbo..... Mine is a 2015 LTZ RS..... And I love it.... It has about 131,000 on it so hopefully that will fix everything.... I real mean it when I say that this video saved my life.... Thank you for doing all these videos.....
@Cole Lee Aerial basically all the cruze turbos have cracks in the waste-gate housing. Mine has it, his has it, yours would have it. Anything past 30K will most certainly have cracks in it. Poor design.
@@aboy467 I had 88,000 miles on mine before it went bad. Had a fun time changing the fucker too.. That oil line was the biggest pain but the rest was easy, in my opinion.
The "door" is the wastegate that the PCM uses to control how much boost the turbo generates. The gate opens allowing exhaust gas to bypass the turbine instead of making it spin thereby reducing boost. If it sticks open, you will see underboost conditions. The device you removed from the old turbo is the wastegate actuator.
What if I don't have any codes but I can't get over 7 psi? Half the 14 it used to be. Could mine be stuck without throwing a code on a 2012 cruze 1.4 eco?
I have the same engine in my 2016 Vauxhall Insignia with a six speed manual (UK). Enjoy watch videos on this as they are very informative. Keep up the good work.
I work for GMC and am doing 1 today as I’m typing this. It’s the same turbo that’s on the Buick Encore same engine same turbo same code P0299 underboost the encores have the same problem. These turbochargers are hella easy thou. If you move the compressor bracket it’s easy to get to that banjo bolt
Taylor Z the cost for the turbocharger and all the pipes and connectors here in Nevada is roughy $900 not including labor. Valve cover is about $150 with the gasket.
3.5hr labour just for the turbo to be replaced ($400-$450) They also recommend to change the seals, gasket, that oil feed that broke and other small stuff. Total for JUST the turbo $1500 with labour give or take..
I just did the turbo on my sonic and that banjo bolt kicked my butt! Getting it off was a pain and it was worse putting it back lol saved a few hundred bucks so it was worth it
Just put a new head on my Encore. Wasn't a bad job at all but the connection from the Turbo to the CAT is breaking my ba**s to get it reconnected. The head had a defect in the casting that didn't show itself for 144K and then it was pretty dramatic !! I've never seen a fragment of the head literally BLOW OUT from under the head gasket !! LUCKILY no piston damage. Thanks for a great video !!
I own a 2016 limited cruze. And it's been a great car to me. If you want to spend the money on it only do it if yourre keeping it. I'd keep that cruze on the turo platform, that cruze has alot of life in it. I'd keep it
Did one of these.... much easier to access the oil return from underneath.. just a handful of bolts to fully remove the cat and heat shielding underneath. I did the same before finding another video showing the bottomside access. All these cars are designed to be fixed on a lift these days.
Randy great job on the turbo and valve cover swap but they call for thread sealer on the two torx bolts that hold the coil packs on if you don't seal them the check engine light will come back.
I've seen people complaining about the pcv being integrated into the valve cover on the forums. Nobody has a right to complain until they've replaced the pcv SYSTEM on a volvo 850 with the turbo 5 cylinder. It costs $100, you have to disassemble quite a bit of the engine to get to it, and when it goes bad you have a good chance of blowing some seal or the engine if you don't catch it soon enough because it plugs shut. That's so easy, and when it fails it doesn't blow up the engine
DO NOT use the aftermarket valve cover! I had a major oil leak and replaced the cam sensors cause I thought there was NO WAY it could be the new valve cover!
I've had 3 cruzes. A 12 eco and a 15 and 18 rs. Work in sales put 30k on them a year have had no problems with any of them. But i change my oil do the maintenance and dont run the hell out them. Fancy thay right?
It will return usually always breaks but you get to it from the bottom take off the cover on the bottom and you can see it get done got a little clip unclip it and pull it out 2 o rings
If you're replacing the valve cover, do the intake, as the pcv valve is in the intake and that valve going out typically is what takes out the valve cover.
Uberman I could have told you how to do this job two years ago I've been running my Chevy Cruze for about five years now and trust me it is crap but it also has taught me a lot about taking it a car apart all that has to come off
I am so glad I watched this video. I had to replace my valve cover because of the PCV issue. What I never did was put silicone on those two spots. My replacement cover looks like crap. I'll clean it off and reinstall it properly this weekend. Also I am creeping up on 100k miles on my 2014 Cruze LT. Less than 200 miles to go before 100k.
I changed one on my daughters 2012 Cruze it was the same it cracked around the waste gate block off the same ! I was told after to get the hole kit comes with new oil lines and drain ! ( get it ) I didn’t and had oil leaks had to take turbo back out and change all the lines ! When I hit the turbo at the dealer ! I said what eles do I need ? They never said get the hose kit ! I’m here to say get the kit ! Drain and oil lines
I've done two of them I've flushed the cooling and added water wetter with the coolent .the water wetter keeps the coolent as well as the prestone keeps it running cooler it will help the tubo from cracking . Water wetter I got it a orellys
Excellent video! Thanks for making it. My 2013 Cruze Eco is throwing the 299 and I figured it was the waste gate. I see now it's all one piece with the turbo..... I'll go ahead and get that hose fitting under the turbo that snapped on your's so I've got it here and handy. Already replaced the valve cover. I'd actually done one from CruzeTalk with an external PCV valve and that worked for a couple years. Dorman makes a new valve cover that supposedly addresses the issues of the GM one, so that's what I put on. But now I have no boost. Anyway, again, great video!
You definitely should check the PVC-valve too from the intake manifold, and if the red knob not existing in a manifold tube, replace the whole manifold!
Recall on valve cover and intake manifold, first got 2014 it had main crankshaft seal intake manifold pcv valve go at 93k now just had my valve cover changed twice intake manifold and now the turbo went at 170k just remeber to check your oil and if you notice wet mark on ground just make sure the antifreeze is not leaking
Great video.. informative and detailed. I just bought my second Cruze '11 Eco yesterday 😁👍.. love these cars, very economical, roomy, great car overall.. only had one issue with my '12 Cruze - thermostat went bad at 56k or so..other than that was good to me until a BigRig hit me head-on.. the Cruze held up pretty good..all bags deployed and just minor scratches from glass and minor bruise from seatbelt. .. You got my like with this detailed video.🔁 Thank you
You need to use a black rtv on the head where the timing cover separates from the block. The bolts are actually a E10 external torx socket not a regular socket. Use the right tools for the job. Just a suggestion.
3 of my es manifold bolts were completely rusted away and fell apart when I pit the 10mm or t50 on them. It's was a serious PITA to remove... in the end I drilled out the nuts and part of the stud to remove it. I'll have to change the studs after I get the turbo out tomorrow morning.
I just replaced one on a chevy Trax. I gotta say it's a little harder on the Trax because of the engine bay layout. 60k on it and the turbo went bad. Yes, it's was cracked, yes waste gate was getting stuck open/closed, yes it had no power, yes I spent a good 5 hours figuring out how to get the oil drain tube off lol.
I had a 2012 eco with 300,000 on it, original turbo, motor, trans and clutch, was still going strong when it was written off. Best car I have ever owned
Some helpful things to know about the Cruze. 1 - if you had a bad valve cover, odds are the check valve is missing in the intake manifold. There is a little orange check valve that disappears (search the Cruze forum for more info). If you replace the valve cover and don't replace this valve, the valve cover will blow again in a short time. 2 - GM updated the oil cooler lines around 2014 I believe. The new ones are designed to prevent the lines from being clogged with sludge. 3- Keep an eye on your coolant. Cruze's are known for coolant loss with no visible leaks. The water pumps and a few of the plastic coolant parts are a weak spot on these cars.
Jason Loesch don’t forget that when you do the valve cover to check the crank seal as that usually fails around the same time. To check if the water pump leaks, get a bright flashlight and look between the engine mount and the pulleys. And the window regulators on these cars are junk. My wife daily’s one and cuts it no slack.
Have you talked to Weird Beard about your hood and front bumper on the Cruze? Both look like they can be saved pretty easily. The rest of the paint looks pretty good on the car, I say repair the hood and front bumper and just have Weird Beard repaint those in a high quality paint that provides a good match, that is, unless you can find replacements painted the same color and in good condition that you could just bolt on. For the number of miles on the Cruze and the fact that it is used so much on Toro, it really looks great!
I just purchased a 2013 Cruze 1.4 turbo for a work car and today it started having issues from acceleration like rpm's revving without much pickup. but once at speed it's fine until i hit the gas then it bogs down . Is this what issues you were having ? If so is that a GM turbo replacement or a china turbo kit ? If it's a china kit how has it lasted ? I'd appreciate it if you could shoot me a answer if you don't mind . Thanks in advance for your time .
Waste gate, and also the waste gate actuator (the piece you refer to at 10:24), are widely identified on the Cruze and Sonic forums as the root of most of the evil in the 1.4 turbo system. Also, when your valve cover is like that you almost certainly also need to replace the intake manifold because there's an integrated PCV in there which quickly blows out the valve cover diaphragm when it fails. Your renter is going to blow out that new valve cover pretty soon if that manifold isn't dealt with. It's easy to check; look down the intake from the vacuum hose and see if you can see the yellow nipple that holds the little plastic flap in place.. if you can't see it, clean it out with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips, and hopefully then you can see it; if you still can't see it, it's probably destroyed and long since sucked through the engine and that manifold/PCV combo has to be replaced as a single part or retrofitted with a better aftermarket PCV that leads into the brake boost line.
There’s cheaper ways to do it now. PCV bypass kit, and you can keep your intake manifold, then replace the Valvecover every 50k miles w/ new gasket as well
I would fix the car like you talking about and keep it on Turo as long as possible. By the way, Randy, I would really appreciate it if you did a Turo tutorial for someone looking at getting into it. Thanks!
That turbo isn’t shot the exhaust housing is cracked. Low boost will not hurt your mpg,in fact it may help the mileage ,at the cost of available power and acceleration.
@@williscurry6557 You have a manual transmission. That will last a lot longer than the shitty 6-speed auto that Chevy put in the Cruze. That POS has a high failure rate under 100k and it'll cost a small fortune to replace.
I’m having similar issues on my car as well. I just want to know what tools I need and what kind of turbo charger you had bought from amazon. I would highly appreciate if you gave me some tips before I start to work on my car please and thank you 🙏🏻
It is less messy if you drain the antifreeze down below the level of the coolant line that mounts on the engine. I lost quite a bit because that wasn't mentioned in any of the videos I watched.
Randy, that diaphragm on the valve cover is not the PCV valve. The PCV valve is in the intake manifold. That disk is a vacuum regulator. Your PCV is probably bad. That's why you're replacing the valve cover so often. Go to Cruzekits.com for more info on a permanent fix.
A turbo timer is a must for cooling down your turbo on idle before turning the engine off.. Since it's a rental car.. Put a note for the renters if in case the engine didn't turn off because of the turbo timer..
Oil cooling lines are not enough as the turbine stops spinning while it's still very hot from a hard highway run.. It can seize up the bearings, roast the oil on it and eventually cracks the turbo housing.. Cooling down for few seconds before turning it off prolongs the turbo on these..
Intake needs to be replaced also... There's a valve made into it which fails... Thats what causes the valve cover to fail. There's an updated valve cover on rock auto.
That gate the swings open is called the wategate exhaust port and that piece on top of the turbo is called the wategate it open when the turbo reach the desire boost pressure and open that exhaust port to expelled all the exhaust gases as it goes. The wategate port has what is know as boost creap when it doesn’t open all the way up or doesn’t close completely. Those wategate port are know to crack right there all the time happen with age.
Great video. The valve cover problem has happened to me too. Why GM made a valve cover with a 30-cent diaphragm that requires replacing the whole $100 valve is beyond me. Mine was replaced under warranty too. Cost cutting by GM cost them the long run.
I put tons of money and work into chevy caviler and at 105k it was rear ended and totaled. I wouldnt worry about paint and stuff unless it makes you some money
At 10:15 you were talking about the oil feed tube on top, i hope you were aware when you replace the turbo you need to replace that as well otherwise it voids any warranty no matter where you buy that turbo.
That crack on the inside gasket is normal. It lwill be on the new one as well. Your problem was in that waste gate lever. It has a small valve that wears out so the waste gate doesn’t close tight enough which leaks exhaust in the turbo and give that PO266 code. Got that info right from GM Your turbo might still have been bad but that crack was not the reason.
RANDY, One Hell OF a Great Video SERVICE Procedural Event you just posted. Very well done, kind sir. You have made small work for many of us and you really do know your stuff. Thank you, seriously - Good Job!!! Sonny (CT)
Also real quick that check engine light won’t come back on until you drive for a while to open all the sensors 8 total. Drive it with the code reader plugged in and you can watch the sensors open and give a green light. If the check engine light stays off after that your home free. Otherwise u will not pass thru emissions.
Thanks for the helpful video. Any recommendations on buying something from Amazon/Ebay $250-300, AutoParts Store $700 or Dealer $850 + $75 core. How has this Amazon Turbo held up?
I have to put a new turbo on mine as well. How has that amazon turbo held up? The OEM is $630 at my local dealer and the amazon is half the price. My plan is to sell the car sooner than later, once its back on the road.
I seafoam my Ecotec before every oil change. I learned from having to replace my wife's engine in her Saturn from all the build-up carbon. My Cobalt's clean as a whistle. I just add seafoam 200 miles before my oil change. I change my oil every 2.5-2.75k miles with Royal Purple also? The valve train looks Better than when I got it. I checked for upgrades. Because it look like the engine was messed with. It had a little carbon buildup But when I checked it three years later it look brand new Inside. Just from seafoaming and using Royal Purple.
After you replace the valve cover did you have issues with it constantly leaking oil out from underneath the valve cover if so I would extremely love to know what had to be done to resolve that issue my 2012 Chevy Cruze Eco with 6-speed manual is well basically it's pissing me off with a constant leaking of oil it's going into the mechanic for the third time get the damn oil leak fixed again
I changed the turbo out on my 2013 Cruze and it was a pain in the ass. It was the oil inlet tube behind the turbo that pissed me off, other than that, it really wasn't bad. EDIT: @5:50, that's the tube I was talking about, you have to get under the car with a long, flat head screw driver, there is a clip that you're supposed to release. Also @7:40, you're wrong, that thing will snap right in, bolt it on to the turbo first. You are literally making this even harder for yourself lol.
Man I’m glad I watched your video we just grabbed a Cruze for my sister had check engine light and we took it to several shops was on because of the catalytic converter They said the turbo was bad on it and that’s why I made the catalytic converter went bad and they were all acting like it was the end of the world they were talking about like four $6000 worth of job replacing turbo they went online to see how much the table was and it’s only like you know between two $300 so now that’s gonna be my project for the weekend
had my turbo crack at the same place.. week or two later had the too lean code and the pcv on the valve cover is bad too. 144,000 so similar to what you have going on.. did you get the P2227 code along with p0171?
Hi Randy I have a question, please answer and I really need to know. I just replaced a brand new turbo last week and I'm smelling some burning oil/rubber from hood area. Also noticing some very very tiny amount of white smoke from hoos but no source of smoke at all. I had a coolest spillage in the engin bay before. Now all no leaks at all. Is the smell and very tiny white smoke a normal thing for newly installed turbo ? My macanic says its normal and will go away after a while. Please reply. Thanks a million
Apparently, everything Scotty Kilmer says about GMC and the Chevy Cruze in particular, cannot be taken as the gospel truth. The way he speaks about the Cruze, you would think it is the worst car ever made...
There fucking junk 100% I worked for Chevy the oil and coolant mix together and when u check the dip stick it looks like mustard we referred to it as a oil mustard maker
@@brianwnek957 first you need proper grammar. Secondly the cruze is pretty stout car. And third, every car has issues and there isn't a better car out there. They all equal the same. Unless you buy a pos ford or dodge. And lastly the coolant and oil mixed because the head gasket was bad more than likely.
My low boost light came on twice I turned it off both times and it hasn't came on again, that was 2 months ago not sure if I should wait till it comes on again to change it.
I honestly think you should keep the Cruise going and see how long it will genuinely last. Fix the bodywork as it is a rental car and it'll be good to keep it looking great, but I think you should push it till it shits itself. See how many miles it can rack
Should have watched this video first because I too snapped the oil return line. Also snapped a stud on the bottom of the catalytic converter. Those are the only 2 issues I would suggest warning people about. All in all easy car to work on, but hate the fact that I've had to do the oil cooler gaskets twice
All turbos have a crack in them, you said it was still running even though the turbo was "defective" not saying anything bad, but a cracked turbo does not mean it was defective, did the car throw p0299? p0299 dosent always mean turbo is bad, but the boost leak is major so the system throws the code
@@helivesonforever IMO, 2 flaws. The PCV valve in the intake that blows consistently prompting a new intake manifold and valve cover, and the waste-gate housing cracks. Other than that, I love my 2012!
@@helivesonforever read up on the PCV system on CruzeTalk. I'm willing to bet your PCV valve is gone. Massive oil leaks is the key sign of PCV failure. Won't always throw a code. I'm at 108k.
I have not commented in quite a while. I do love your videos. I watch them on a regular basis. I just have a few suggestions, and of course it’s just an observation on my part.
1. Sell that truck once it’s tip top, and for the right price you will probably make a great profit.
2. Sell that Porsche, and if the oil is staying out of the coolant system then you got it for a song and you should make a great profit.
3. And you’re not going to like this one... Sell that Corvette, as well the Camaro. Get out from under those.
4. Consolidate all of it. Consolidate all of your insurance payments on all those vehicles.Pool that capital.
5. Invest in a good Diesel Truck, The best you can find, with all the creature comforts, bells and whistles.
6. Trade in your Chevy Cruze for a newer one, or something similar and stay on the Car rental platform if it’s making good income for you.
7. Get a proper trailer for hauling autos. And be picky. Treat that investment like you are buying another vehicle
Now you should have only 2 car payments, only 2 auto insurance policies.
Get your house move in ready as much as possible.
1 house payment, I house insurance policy.
Get out of that rental.
Consolidate and reorganize your capital. Focus on the dealership business and your You Tube videos.
Consolidate, reorganize, and invest in your business.
Love watching your progress.
69Phucket- Honestly, I wasn’t knocking Randy about his sportscars.
Hell, I proudly own a 2007 Nissan 35OZ 6spd Enthusiasts coupe- 306 HP / 268 Ft Lbs of torque (Factory)
Hellastock, just over 70,000 miles.
Gifted to me by my Father because he couldn’t bring himself to sell it, let alone trade it when he bought his “practical” 2019 Acura RDX. He was the only owner, and babied the Z. Now I’m the custodian, and with the sentimental value I baby her as well.
I like to go fast, so I get it.
I also have a 2001 Detroit Turbo Diesel .395 V8 project. I Love Diesel Tech !
I was just suggesting that with a proper diesel truck, and especially the newer models you can have a work truck, sport car, and luxury vehicle all rolled up in one. And the MPG’s have gotten significantly better on diesel trucks. Not to mention the MANY miles you can put on them, and they still keep their value, and work hard for you. More bang for your buck is what I mean.
Productions of Corvette, Camaro, and Porsche aren’t going to be halted anytime soon. There will always be others.
Honestly, I was just making a “present in the now “ business priority suggestion.
He has the Corvette on turo too although I feel as if that’s more risky to have on that platform due to the fact it’s a lot faster and people could get carried away with it
Love him or hate him he's speaking facts
Jason Olliff Good advice!
I agree but I'd modify your idea to keep 1 sports car.
You just saves my life.... The little fan in the turbo I found it this evening when I replaced my camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor and my catalytic convertor, it was inside my catalytic convertor.... I don't know if it messed it up the convertor but if it didn't then I have an extra one now that it's lol.... I'll go ahead and get a new valve cover and change it when I change my turbo..... Mine is a 2015 LTZ RS..... And I love it.... It has about 131,000 on it so hopefully that will fix everything.... I real mean it when I say that this video saved my life.... Thank you for doing all these videos.....
Glad I could help!! Enjoy!!
I did a similar job on a Mini Cooper S. The Cruze seems easier to work on because it doesn't have 1 million heat shields and no room. Nice work Randy!
2:33 that’s the wastegate. Sticking open will 100% cause an under boost situation.
Power 2 Weight no. The thing sticking is what I’m talking about.
Power 2 Weight I put the wrong time stamp. 😂
I couple of cranks on the actuator preload screw helps with that. I overboost all the time on a 285,000 mile turbo.
@Cole Lee Aerial basically all the cruze turbos have cracks in the waste-gate housing. Mine has it, his has it, yours would have it. Anything past 30K will most certainly have cracks in it. Poor design.
@@aboy467 I had 88,000 miles on mine before it went bad. Had a fun time changing the fucker too.. That oil line was the biggest pain but the rest was easy, in my opinion.
The "door" is the wastegate that the PCM uses to control how much boost the turbo generates. The gate opens allowing exhaust gas to bypass the turbine instead of making it spin thereby reducing boost. If it sticks open, you will see underboost conditions. The device you removed from the old turbo is the wastegate actuator.
What if I don't have any codes but I can't get over 7 psi?
Half the 14 it used to be.
Could mine be stuck without throwing a code on a 2012 cruze 1.4 eco?
Well you should drive it until the wheels fall off. Thanks for sharing your story
I have the same engine in my 2016 Vauxhall Insignia with a six speed manual (UK). Enjoy watch videos on this as they are very informative. Keep up the good work.
I work for GMC and am doing 1 today as I’m typing this. It’s the same turbo that’s on the Buick Encore same engine same turbo same code P0299 underboost the encores have the same problem. These turbochargers are hella easy thou. If you move the compressor bracket it’s easy to get to that banjo bolt
What would the turbo and valve cover replacement cost approx at the dealer?
Taylor Z the cost for the turbocharger and all the pipes and connectors here in Nevada is roughy $900 not including labor. Valve cover is about $150 with the gasket.
3.5hr labour just for the turbo to be replaced ($400-$450)
They also recommend to change the seals, gasket, that oil feed that broke and other small stuff.
Total for JUST the turbo $1500 with labour give or take..
I just did the turbo on my sonic and that banjo bolt kicked my butt! Getting it off was a pain and it was worse putting it back lol saved a few hundred bucks so it was worth it
New God I wouldn’t 🤦🏾♂️
Try that in the northeast where everything is rusted together and breaks lol
@@Paopolomololl Nope I live on coast
Thats everything though
Right!
Michigan weather and salt on the roads in the winter is rough on vehicles.
Good job Randy I can't imagine doing all the work you do one handed.
Just put a new head on my Encore. Wasn't a bad job at all but the connection from the Turbo to the CAT is breaking my ba**s to get it reconnected. The head had a defect in the casting that didn't show itself for 144K and then it was pretty dramatic !! I've never seen a fragment of the head literally BLOW OUT from under the head gasket !! LUCKILY no piston damage. Thanks for a great video !!
I own a 2016 limited cruze. And it's been a great car to me. If you want to spend the money on it only do it if yourre keeping it. I'd keep that cruze on the turo platform, that cruze has alot of life in it. I'd keep it
.....right?!
I get 40 hwy.mpg on my Cruze turbo , 2014, running beautifully. Have all the options on it. Best car I've owned.
Mine is a 2013 RS package an now i have 184486 miles on it still run like new thanks God. Nice job
Did one of these.... much easier to access the oil return from underneath.. just a handful of bolts to fully remove the cat and heat shielding underneath. I did the same before finding another video showing the bottomside access. All these cars are designed to be fixed on a lift these days.
Randy great job on the turbo and valve cover swap but they call for thread sealer on the two torx bolts that hold the coil packs on if you don't seal them the check engine light will come back.
You just solved my problem by not undoing the exhaust to cat bolts! Need to replace oil cooler tomorrow ;)
I've seen people complaining about the pcv being integrated into the valve cover on the forums. Nobody has a right to complain until they've replaced the pcv SYSTEM on a volvo 850 with the turbo 5 cylinder. It costs $100, you have to disassemble quite a bit of the engine to get to it, and when it goes bad you have a good chance of blowing some seal or the engine if you don't catch it soon enough because it plugs shut. That's so easy, and when it fails it doesn't blow up the engine
DO NOT use the aftermarket valve cover! I had a major oil leak and replaced the cam sensors cause I thought there was NO WAY it could be the new valve cover!
I've had 3 cruzes. A 12 eco and a 15 and 18 rs. Work in sales put 30k on them a year have had no problems with any of them. But i change my oil do the maintenance and dont run the hell out them. Fancy thay right?
Loved how easy and detailed you were with this video definitely saving this to my favorites.
Makes me glad I purchased one of the last 2018 sonics with the 1.8l non turbo. I Wont have to worry about doing this repair in the near future!
It will return usually always breaks but you get to it from the bottom take off the cover on the bottom and you can see it get done got a little clip unclip it and pull it out 2 o rings
If you're replacing the valve cover, do the intake, as the pcv valve is in the intake and that valve going out typically is what takes out the valve cover.
What do you mean do the intake?
@@gerardomendoza8416 Here you go, this video talks about it. ruclips.net/video/En4WO7DYsTk/видео.html&ab_channel=DreDan
Uberman I could have told you how to do this job two years ago I've been running my Chevy Cruze for about five years now and trust me it is crap but it also has taught me a lot about taking it a car apart all that has to come off
I am so glad I watched this video. I had to replace my valve cover because of the PCV issue. What I never did was put silicone on those two spots. My replacement cover looks like crap. I'll clean it off and reinstall it properly this weekend. Also I am creeping up on 100k miles on my 2014 Cruze LT. Less than 200 miles to go before 100k.
I changed one on my daughters 2012 Cruze it was the same it cracked around the waste gate block off the same ! I was told after to get the hole kit comes with new oil lines and drain ! ( get it ) I didn’t and had oil leaks had to take turbo back out and change all the lines ! When I hit the turbo at the dealer ! I said what eles do I need ? They never said get the hose kit ! I’m here to say get the kit ! Drain and oil lines
That belt chirping sound is also related to the clogged PCV system. Been through that fiasco already.
That's from the turbo pressuring the crankcase from a bad pcv valve.
Can I ask what belt? Is it the serpintine belt?
Wow this video is great and a total jackpot, goes over all the problems I have to fix on mine, keep the good work up!
That engine looks brand newwwwwww!!!
I've done two of them I've flushed the cooling and added water wetter with the coolent .the water wetter keeps the coolent as well as the prestone keeps it running cooler it will help the tubo from cracking . Water wetter I got it a orellys
Excellent video! Thanks for making it. My 2013 Cruze Eco is throwing the 299 and I figured it was the waste gate. I see now it's all one piece with the turbo..... I'll go ahead and get that hose fitting under the turbo that snapped on your's so I've got it here and handy. Already replaced the valve cover. I'd actually done one from CruzeTalk with an external PCV valve and that worked for a couple years. Dorman makes a new valve cover that supposedly addresses the issues of the GM one, so that's what I put on. But now I have no boost. Anyway, again, great video!
Have you checked the PCV on the intake manifold? Often that goes first and blows out the one on the valve cover.
You definitely should check the PVC-valve too from the intake manifold, and if the red knob not existing in a manifold tube, replace the whole manifold!
Randy, love the content. How do you manage to keep this going man? Youre a hard worker. Just glad you do what you do. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
how's the car been running? still good after 2 years? might tackle this problem tomorrow
Recall on valve cover and intake manifold, first got 2014 it had main crankshaft seal intake manifold pcv valve go at 93k now just had my valve cover changed twice intake manifold and now the turbo went at 170k just remeber to check your oil and if you notice wet mark on ground just make sure the antifreeze is not leaking
Great video.. informative and detailed. I just bought my second Cruze '11 Eco yesterday 😁👍.. love these cars, very economical, roomy, great car overall.. only had one issue with my '12 Cruze - thermostat went bad at 56k or so..other than that was good to me until a BigRig hit me head-on.. the Cruze held up pretty good..all bags deployed and just minor scratches from glass and minor bruise from seatbelt. ..
You got my like with this detailed video.🔁 Thank you
You need to use a black rtv on the head where the timing cover separates from the block. The bolts are actually a E10 external torx socket not a regular socket. Use the right tools for the job. Just a suggestion.
162K miles - No wonder. Great job by the way.
First!!! Another great video love the house and car work you are doing at the moment
3 of my es manifold bolts were completely rusted away and fell apart when I pit the 10mm or t50 on them. It's was a serious PITA to remove... in the end I drilled out the nuts and part of the stud to remove it. I'll have to change the studs after I get the turbo out tomorrow morning.
I just replaced one on a chevy Trax. I gotta say it's a little harder on the Trax because of the engine bay layout. 60k on it and the turbo went bad. Yes, it's was cracked, yes waste gate was getting stuck open/closed, yes it had no power, yes I spent a good 5 hours figuring out how to get the oil drain tube off lol.
I had a 2012 eco with 300,000 on it, original turbo, motor, trans and clutch, was still going strong when it was written off. Best car I have ever owned
Some helpful things to know about the Cruze.
1 - if you had a bad valve cover, odds are the check valve is missing in the intake manifold. There is a little orange check valve that disappears (search the Cruze forum for more info). If you replace the valve cover and don't replace this valve, the valve cover will blow again in a short time.
2 - GM updated the oil cooler lines around 2014 I believe. The new ones are designed to prevent the lines from being clogged with sludge.
3- Keep an eye on your coolant. Cruze's are known for coolant loss with no visible leaks. The water pumps and a few of the plastic coolant parts are a weak spot on these cars.
Jason Loesch don’t forget that when you do the valve cover to check the crank seal as that usually fails around the same time.
To check if the water pump leaks, get a bright flashlight and look between the engine mount and the pulleys.
And the window regulators on these cars are junk. My wife daily’s one and cuts it no slack.
Have you talked to Weird Beard about your hood and front bumper on the Cruze? Both look like they can be saved pretty easily. The rest of the paint looks pretty good on the car, I say repair the hood and front bumper and just have Weird Beard repaint those in a high quality paint that provides a good match, that is, unless you can find replacements painted the same color and in good condition that you could just bolt on. For the number of miles on the Cruze and the fact that it is used so much on Toro, it really looks great!
I just purchased a 2013 Cruze 1.4 turbo for a work car and today it started having issues from acceleration like rpm's revving without much pickup. but once at speed it's fine until i hit the gas then it bogs down . Is this what issues you were having ? If so is that a GM turbo replacement or a china turbo kit ? If it's a china kit how has it lasted ? I'd appreciate it if you could shoot me a answer if you don't mind . Thanks in advance for your time .
That one piece is called the "waste gate actuator"!
Great job brother.. That cruze has been worth the money
Waste gate, and also the waste gate actuator (the piece you refer to at 10:24), are widely identified on the Cruze and Sonic forums as the root of most of the evil in the 1.4 turbo system. Also, when your valve cover is like that you almost certainly also need to replace the intake manifold because there's an integrated PCV in there which quickly blows out the valve cover diaphragm when it fails. Your renter is going to blow out that new valve cover pretty soon if that manifold isn't dealt with. It's easy to check; look down the intake from the vacuum hose and see if you can see the yellow nipple that holds the little plastic flap in place.. if you can't see it, clean it out with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips, and hopefully then you can see it; if you still can't see it, it's probably destroyed and long since sucked through the engine and that manifold/PCV combo has to be replaced as a single part or retrofitted with a better aftermarket PCV that leads into the brake boost line.
Why would you replace the intake manifold if the diaphragm in the valve cover is bad?
There’s cheaper ways to do it now. PCV bypass kit, and you can keep your intake manifold, then replace the Valvecover every 50k miles w/ new gasket as well
@@lysias55 you still have to replace the valve cover every 50k after the ocv fix kit? Wtf?
I would fix the car like you talking about and keep it on Turo as long as possible.
By the way, Randy, I would really appreciate it if you did a Turo tutorial for someone looking at getting into it. Thanks!
Thank you so much! My Turbo just went out and pep boys trying to charge my $3100 to fix it. Definitely just going to do it myself haha
That turbo isn’t shot the exhaust housing is cracked. Low boost will not hurt your mpg,in fact it may help the mileage ,at the cost of available power and acceleration.
I would not spend all that money to get rid off it, because of the high mileage its not going to make that much difference in its value
Thats not that bad on mileage. I have the same cruze (with the manual trans) thats at 285,000 miles.
@@williscurry6557 You have a manual transmission. That will last a lot longer than the shitty 6-speed auto that Chevy put in the Cruze. That POS has a high failure rate under 100k and it'll cost a small fortune to replace.
I’m having similar issues on my car as well. I just want to know what tools I need and what kind of turbo charger you had bought from amazon. I would highly appreciate if you gave me some tips before I start to work on my car please and thank you 🙏🏻
Might be a dumb question.. But do you have to drain the radiator when replacing the turbo?
It is less messy if you drain the antifreeze down below the level of the coolant line that mounts on the engine. I lost quite a bit because that wasn't mentioned in any of the videos I watched.
Randy, that diaphragm on the valve cover is not the PCV valve. The PCV valve is in the intake manifold. That disk is a vacuum regulator. Your PCV is probably bad. That's why you're replacing the valve cover so often. Go to Cruzekits.com for more info on a permanent fix.
Hello, how did you manage to take off the coolant line? Mine seems like it won't screw off. Did you use a specific tool?
A turbo timer is a must for cooling down your turbo on idle before turning the engine off.. Since it's a rental car.. Put a note for the renters if in case the engine didn't turn off because of the turbo timer..
Oil cooling lines are not enough as the turbine stops spinning while it's still very hot from a hard highway run.. It can seize up the bearings, roast the oil on it and eventually cracks the turbo housing.. Cooling down for few seconds before turning it off prolongs the turbo on these..
Intake needs to be replaced also... There's a valve made into it which fails... Thats what causes the valve cover to fail. There's an updated valve cover on rock auto.
What symptoms did the turbo give when it was going out...my 2015 may have the same problem
I’m thinking about getting the same turbo charge for my Chevy Cruze and I’m just wondering how is yours holding up, Is it still working good??
That gate the swings open is called the wategate exhaust port and that piece on top of the turbo is called the wategate it open when the turbo reach the desire boost pressure and open that exhaust port to expelled all the exhaust gases as it goes. The wategate port has what is know as boost creap when it doesn’t open all the way up or doesn’t close completely. Those wategate port are know to crack right there all the time happen with age.
Great video. The valve cover problem has happened to me too. Why GM made a valve cover with a 30-cent diaphragm that requires replacing the whole $100 valve is beyond me. Mine was replaced under warranty too. Cost cutting by GM cost them the long run.
Im with you. Just need to see if they cover the turbo charger too
I put tons of money and work into chevy caviler and at 105k it was rear ended and totaled. I wouldnt worry about paint and stuff unless it makes you some money
At 10:15 you were talking about the oil feed tube on top, i hope you were aware when you replace the turbo you need to replace that as well otherwise it voids any warranty no matter where you buy that turbo.
That crack on the inside gasket is normal. It lwill be on the new one as well. Your problem was in that waste gate lever. It has a small valve that wears out so the waste gate doesn’t close tight enough which leaks exhaust in the turbo and give that PO266 code. Got that info right from GM Your turbo might still have been bad but that crack was not the reason.
RANDY, One Hell OF a Great Video SERVICE Procedural Event you just posted. Very well done, kind sir. You have made small work for many of us and you really do know your stuff. Thank you, seriously - Good Job!!! Sonny (CT)
Mine has 178076 on it and it’s still running strong but I am about to install a new turbo and all new cooling lines and oil lines,
Also real quick that check engine light won’t come back on until you drive for a while to open all the sensors 8 total. Drive it with the code reader plugged in and you can watch the sensors open and give a green light. If the check engine light stays off after that your home free. Otherwise u will not pass thru emissions.
Thanks for the helpful video. Any recommendations on buying something from Amazon/Ebay $250-300, AutoParts Store $700 or Dealer $850 + $75 core. How has this Amazon Turbo held up?
The one crack on the left is made to be there but the two other cracks are the definition of your pressure leak
Need to replace mine. Which turbo did your purchase for replacement?
Cruze runs like a sewing machine! Good work Randy
How much did you pay for turbo? Was it aftermarket or oem? Has it held up?
very clean inside that there engine. Hope it gets you several more years of renting. What did you use Thor's Hammer for?
I have to put a new turbo on mine as well. How has that amazon turbo held up? The OEM is $630 at my local dealer and the amazon is half the price. My plan is to sell the car sooner than later, once its back on the road.
If you pull the bracket that holds the cat off you’ll have the clearance to get that back bolt on the oil return line
Dude thank you!!!! I have to do the exact same to my 2011... turbos shot. Hope to get it done within a month!
I seafoam my Ecotec before every oil change. I learned from having to replace my wife's engine in her Saturn from all the build-up carbon. My Cobalt's clean as a whistle. I just add seafoam 200 miles before my oil change. I change my oil every 2.5-2.75k miles with Royal Purple also? The valve train looks Better than when I got it. I checked for upgrades. Because it look like the engine was messed with. It had a little carbon buildup But when I checked it three years later it look brand new Inside. Just from seafoaming and using Royal Purple.
Has the car ran good ever since?
Install you just push it down straight down at the clip right in get the O-rings in
How does this generation stack up to the 2016 and newer ?
Do you have the link to the Amazon turbo charger part I need my replace I would like to order it
Would you recommend an after market solution instead of OEM as OEM want designed well?
After you replace the valve cover did you have issues with it constantly leaking oil out from underneath the valve cover if so I would extremely love to know what had to be done to resolve that issue my 2012 Chevy Cruze Eco with 6-speed manual is well basically it's pissing me off with a constant leaking of oil it's going into the mechanic for the third time get the damn oil leak fixed again
About how long that job take you over all???
Valve cover is 71inch pounds
I changed the turbo out on my 2013 Cruze and it was a pain in the ass. It was the oil inlet tube behind the turbo that pissed me off, other than that, it really wasn't bad.
EDIT: @5:50, that's the tube I was talking about, you have to get under the car with a long, flat head screw driver, there is a clip that you're supposed to release. Also @7:40, you're wrong, that thing will snap right in, bolt it on to the turbo first. You are literally making this even harder for yourself lol.
IA MERROR that long clip , do you have to turn it clock wise . Did you have someone from top of the engine pull it up at the same time you turn it?
Man I’m glad I watched your video we just grabbed a Cruze for my sister had check engine light and we took it to several shops was on because of the catalytic converter They said the turbo was bad on it and that’s why I made the catalytic converter went bad and they were all acting like it was the end of the world they were talking about like four $6000 worth of job replacing turbo they went online to see how much the table was and it’s only like you know between two $300 so now that’s gonna be my project for the weekend
Is there a way the gasget goes does it matter which side toward the engine ..thank you appreciate the video
I think the turbo going bad busts the PCV valve, bc that’s exactly what’s going on with mine.
How many miles are on the engine when the problem started? I did this and also got to that bolt from the side and had the drain tube break.
had my turbo crack at the same place.. week or two later had the too lean code and the pcv on the valve cover is bad too. 144,000 so similar to what you have going on.. did you get the P2227 code along with p0171?
Keep renting it until new hood and paint are paid for
Hi Randy
I have a question, please answer and I really need to know.
I just replaced a brand new turbo last week and I'm smelling some burning oil/rubber from hood area. Also noticing some very very tiny amount of white smoke from hoos but no source of smoke at all. I had a coolest spillage in the engin bay before. Now all no leaks at all.
Is the smell and very tiny white smoke a normal thing for newly installed turbo ?
My macanic says its normal and will go away after a while.
Please reply. Thanks a million
Apparently, everything Scotty Kilmer says about GMC and the Chevy Cruze in particular, cannot be taken as the gospel truth. The way he speaks about the Cruze, you would think it is the worst car ever made...
I had a 2012 eco with 300,000 on it, original turbo, motor, trans and clutch
I own one. Worst car I've ever owned.
There fucking junk 100% I worked for Chevy the oil and coolant mix together and when u check the dip stick it looks like mustard we referred to it as a oil mustard maker
@@brianwnek957 first you need proper grammar. Secondly the cruze is pretty stout car. And third, every car has issues and there isn't a better car out there. They all equal the same. Unless you buy a pos ford or dodge. And lastly the coolant and oil mixed because the head gasket was bad more than likely.
Bought the 1.8 version in Australia. Got rid of it after 6 months. Piece of shit.
My low boost light came on twice I turned it off both times and it hasn't came on again, that was 2 months ago not sure if I should wait till it comes on again to change it.
I honestly think you should keep the Cruise going and see how long it will genuinely last. Fix the bodywork as it is a rental car and it'll be good to keep it looking great, but I think you should push it till it shits itself. See how many miles it can rack
Should have watched this video first because I too snapped the oil return line. Also snapped a stud on the bottom of the catalytic converter. Those are the only 2 issues I would suggest warning people about. All in all easy car to work on, but hate the fact that I've had to do the oil cooler gaskets twice
All turbos have a crack in them, you said it was still running even though the turbo was "defective" not saying anything bad, but a cracked turbo does not mean it was defective, did the car throw p0299? p0299 dosent always mean turbo is bad, but the boost leak is major so the system throws the code
What engine type is it a 1.0 liter? Looks really clean still and Randy you shown us you can work still and not only walk around😁👍
@@helivesonforever IMO, 2 flaws. The PCV valve in the intake that blows consistently prompting a new intake manifold and valve cover, and the waste-gate housing cracks. Other than that, I love my 2012!
@@helivesonforever read up on the PCV system on CruzeTalk. I'm willing to bet your PCV valve is gone. Massive oil leaks is the key sign of PCV failure. Won't always throw a code. I'm at 108k.