*Lukasz’s Street Photography Settings* 📸 *Exposure* -Manual mode with Auto ISO: Keep your shutter speed and aperture fixed, let the ISO adjust automatically. -Shutter speeds: 1/500 for action, 1/50 for slower scenes. -ISO max: Set to 6400. -Exposure compensation: Tweak for brighter or darker shots as needed. -Metering mode: Full-frame average for consistent results. *Autofocus* -Continuous AF with tracking: Let your camera follow the subject without losing focus. -Back button focus: Separate focusing from shooting for more control. Awesome video, Lukasz! Your tips for street photography settings are super helpful and easy to understand. I love how you break it down so it works for any camera, not just the Z9. The focus on keeping things efficient with manual mode and continuous AF tracking is exactly what I needed. Also, the Shibuya dusk setting was a perfect backdrop-really made everything click. Thanks for sharing your insights! I completely agree with your settings which should help you shoot quickly and efficiently, so you can focus on capturing great moments instead of adjusting your camera constantly - which is especially important if you're out shooting in a place like Tokyo.
Oh, I love it!! I will pin this comment! And I'll just add how to enable the full-frame average metering mode on Nikon Z cameras: you have to go the Custom Settings menu, section B (Metering/Exposure), and find the option called Center-weighted area. It's b5 on my camera but it might vary. Thanks for the awesome summary! :)
For metering, I usually use center weighted metering on my Nikon z6ii and then change the weighted area to 12mm. This way the camera meters only in a small central circle of the frame. What this allows for is no messing about with exposure compensation. I do 'expose and recompose' instead of 'focus and recompose'. I've mapped my AE-L function to the Fn1 button on the front of the camera. For example, if I'm doing photography at night, and I want to expose for the traffic lights, I point my camera at the lights and since the metering mode is center weighted, the camera meters for the light. I then hit the AE-L function button and it locks the exposure. (I've set it up so that the exposure is locked until I hit the FN Button again). This way I know my photos are correctly exposed throughout my shoot and I only have to worry about composition. It's a cool trick, so hope it helps
Interesting, so you go the other way: a smaller center! The problem for me with that is that I often put subjects far from the center of the frame. But coupled with AE-L that makes sense, especially if you use it as a toggle. I find the exposure comp to be so quickly accessible that I prefer it. Also it allows fine-tuning, while with AE-L if you don't like the exposure you have to go lock onto something else, or at that point end up using exposure comp anyway. But I'm glad it works for! :)
@@EYExplore Yeah you probably don't have the hammy hands I do ;) I can never seem to find it comfortable to hold the exposure comp button and turn the dial. Anyway, exposure compensation is not really necessary for me since I frame as much of the central circle as I need for the correct exposure. So for example if I only frame 50% of a light in the center, then the other 50% of the center is dark, which is like raising the exposure by a stop or so compared to having 100% of the light in the center. Once I tried it, something clicked for me and it is the easiest way for me to find the right exposure.
Terrific video! I also am using a Nikon Z, in my case, it’s a Z6iii. For maximum speed have you set your camera to stay powered on or it just reacts fast enough to shut off and wake up without losing the moment??
Thanks!! Glad you enjoy it. The Z9 comes back from sleep instantly, so it's not a problem. The Z6II was a bit slow, so I think I made the sleep timer quite long. We just got a Z6III but haven't tried it yet. We'll make a video about it eventually! :)
All these settings are EXACTLY what I use. The tracking AF with back button focusing means you never need any other focus mode. It's great on the Fuji x-s20. Extra little hack: in that mode you can even still manually focus if you like, without changing any further settings - you just turn the focus ring and you see the focus peaking come on.
Since I discovered the 3d tracking focus years ago I never looked back and like you, it is the mode that is permanently set in my camera. With modern cameras this mode is increadibly fast and you can even make pictures of racing cars and fast moving animals with ease.
This is very helpful. You just distilled in this video enough for the rest of us to practice over many days. Thank you. As an aside, I don't think I have ever seen so many people looking into the camera as I have in this video.
Glad you found it useful! Sometimes I feel I'm rambling too much but I enjoy making this style of tutorial video, rather than something more controlled in a studio. And yeah I noticed that too! Lots of people wondering what we're up to. :)
Useful content, super fast paced. Will have to replay at slower speed to double check my understanding😊. So you use exp comp in combo with Manual Exp and Auto ISO? Thing about auto-ISO (at least on my Sony and GR3) is that cam doesn’t display its chosen ISO value until shutter half-press, when it might be too late to change things. Always use BBF - great tool. Do you use auto white balance?
Haha, yeah I talk too fast! But I like to cram a lot info into a shorter video. It def helps to re-watch. But this is something I should work on. You are correct: exp comp in combo with M + Auto ISO. You're right it does not display the ISO until half-press. This is where the top LCD is very nice on larger cameras, but on my GR I just check in the moment and if I have to adjust shutter/aperture I can do it pretty quickly and easily with the camera help up in shooting position. And I should have mentioned WB! I forgot because I never think about it. It's on Auto forever haha.
The closest option on the Z6 is the Subject Tracking mode, which is access by pressing the OK button while in the Wide Area AF mode. It functions like 3D Tracking but the tracking point is larger and not quite as reliable. It's not bad though and still useful. When I have a Z6II I used it often! :)
You have to go the Custom Settings menu, section B, Metering/Exposure, and find the option called Center-weighted area. It's b5 on my camera but it might vary. :)
@EYExplore Hi there! Great photographs! I'm planning to get the D4 very soon for my night photography and I was wondering (in your opinion) how clean images are at iso6400? I shoot extremely challenging low light situations and even though my D500 does a good job, it's a bit noisy at iso6400 and it hunts quite a bit when trying to lock on the focus in some challenging low lights. Thank you.
Thanks!! I've shot my D4 at 6400 a lot over the years and they are plenty clean. They're cleaner than the D500 but remember the resolution is only 16mp (D500 is 24mp), so if you downscale the D500 image to 16mp I think it will look similar to the D4. However, you may see more detail in the D4's shadows, but it's been a while so don't take my word on that. I recall the D4 having better AF than the D500 in low light, though, but it's been quite a few years since I've used these cameras. :)
@@EYExplore Thank you so much! Honestly 16mp is still enough for what I intend to shoot. I hardly make tight crops. The D500 is 20mp so it's only 4mp more than D4. I'll definitely go ahead and get the D4 because, as I mentioned earlier, the D500 tends to "hunt" in very challenging low light situations and I've heard amazing thinks about the D4's incredible sharp focusing in any situation. And it's full frame! As opposed to the APS-C crop sensor on the D500.
Hello Lukasz, after watching all of your videos in the past, I've noticed something unusual in this one. It's the way people behave when they see you and Axel. Usually the majority seems to ignore the camera, but this time it looks like a walk in a different country. Is it just me, or did you feel the same? What could be the cause? P.s. I will try the "entire screen average" option on my Sony. And... I don't know why, but you always give me the impression of a fighter, who came to Japan for a karate tournament, checking out the city shortly before it. 😄 Greetings from Germany. (Serdecznie pozdrawiam!)
Yeah, I noticed that, but I'm sure it's because the WHOLE time I'm taking directly into the camera. In other videos I spent a lot of time shooting and talking seemingly to myself, so people tend to look at ME and not into the video camera. When the look at me, you don't noticed them but when they look in the camera you make eye contact with them and it's very jarring. Giving the impression of a fighter? I love it! I take that as a compliment. I'm glad I look badass enough to be in a movie like Blood Sport haha. Dzięki! :)
@@EYExplore Well noted. Thank you! By the way, it seems all camera brand not interested to release native fast AF 28mm lens for mirrorless. Fujifilm has its equivalent but it is in APSC. I like this focal length a lot.
I will set a fn button on Nikon Z9 to toggle between having peopl detection and not. Because sometimes I just want my 3d box to lock on some “object” for example a house.
Yes, that's a great idea! I didn't mention it in the video but I do use the front Fn buttons to quickly change focus modes. I like to go to the normal Wide Area AF mode and the let camera choose the subject in moments where I don't have enough time to put the 3D tracking box on my preferred subject. :)
You mean minimum shutter speed in aperture mode? I think there is some trick to it... I've had many people bring Leicas on the workshops and we usually were able to get it to work but I can't remember how without having the camera in hand.
I think there is no exposure compensation in M on GRII. They added that on grIII if im not mistaken, where menu wheel controls exp. compensation in manual mode.
On the GR II you want to use TAv not M. On most cameras M refers to manual shutter and aperture, but ISO is a separate setting, so you can set Manual + Auto ISO (this is called TAv on the GR II) or Manual + Manual ISO (called Manual on the GR II). The GR III did away with TAv and just has an M mode on the dial and ISO is set separately. Hope that helps! :)
2:36 i like z9 viewfinder eyepiece. My fuji x-h1 and, for that matter, every fuji apart from x-t30 and x-s20 have that big rubber cup that catches on clothes and falls off eventually. Nikon one seems non-obtrusive but idk if that matters on z9 of all cameras)
And for the camera setting in question. I use average metering but center weighted. From my 5d days i used to shooting with only central dot and back button. Now i (with your reccomendation🙂) slowly switching to continious af with whole frame tracking. Which is not super amazing on x-h1, but definitely more useful than AF-S. paired with back button it allows same functionality as af-s with single dot anyway, if i press and release. I have 2 auto iso modes with 1/15 and 1/250 limit. Trying af-c definetly made shooting more enjoyable. And i know for raw it doesnt matter, but i shoot a lot of green like grass for example,and auto wb usually gives magenta cast in that case. I left wb set to daylight and found out that for the majority of my shots i like jpegs as is. Sure i can squeeze more dr out of raw files. Or just set shadows -2 in quick menu in super contrasty scene. Im talking like whole dr range. For example shooting from dim room outside, shadows can use some boost. In all the other cases, im talking noon sun with deep black shadows, i found resulting jpeg image with no adjustments true to live or at the very least i feel like time it will take me to edit raw and lift shadows is not really worth it. Im just hobbyist and im not saying everyone should shoot jpeg only with fixed WB. Im just glad i found out what works for me, and i can photograph and not think about it. Saying that, i need to give leica a try with their dngs and ricoh too😅
Yeah, that BBF pairing with AF-C is key! I generally keep the WB on auto but once in a while I do change if the photos are consistently coming out weird, such as in a forest or something (shade and greenery). But beyond that I save all my editing for the studio. I don't do any settings in camera. But I do spend a lot of time editing haha, so maybe it's a curse. :)
I'm not sure which Sony you have but it may in the main (red) menu buried in an ISO menu or called Auto ISO min. SS.... or something like that. But this does depend on model. :)
Great tips. I think people first trying to get good settings should take this video as an input and try to adapt to their specific camera and style. Because from my experience everyone does it a little different and has their own logic. For me simplicity is absolute key. Zone focus and manual mode with Auto ISO, basically P&S (it’s a GR after all). but at the same time I can very quickly adapt to lower light, change focus etc. I think having to fiddle with your camera is one of the biggest hurdles for new Street Photographers because speed is so important. I remember my first time trying it. Found a scene, stood two meters in front and then took like 30 seconds to properly adjust ss, ap, iso, focus etc with my 700D. Thankfully my Winogrand imitations where on point so my subjects didn’t seem to mind a doofus with a camera in front of them.
Totally agree! It's not meant to be prescriptive but just an overview of how I do it. And then it's up to each individual to take the bits that are useful for them. The Winogrand Kung Fu (Wing Chun?) is key in many cases haha! :)
*Lukasz’s Street Photography Settings* 📸
*Exposure*
-Manual mode with Auto ISO: Keep your shutter speed and aperture fixed, let the ISO adjust automatically.
-Shutter speeds: 1/500 for action, 1/50 for slower scenes.
-ISO max: Set to 6400.
-Exposure compensation: Tweak for brighter or darker shots as needed.
-Metering mode: Full-frame average for consistent results.
*Autofocus*
-Continuous AF with tracking: Let your camera follow the subject without losing focus.
-Back button focus: Separate focusing from shooting for more control.
Awesome video, Lukasz! Your tips for street photography settings are super helpful and easy to understand. I love how you break it down so it works for any camera, not just the Z9. The focus on keeping things efficient with manual mode and continuous AF tracking is exactly what I needed. Also, the Shibuya dusk setting was a perfect backdrop-really made everything click. Thanks for sharing your insights!
I completely agree with your settings which should help you shoot quickly and efficiently, so you can focus on capturing great moments instead of adjusting your camera constantly - which is especially important if you're out shooting in a place like Tokyo.
Oh, I love it!! I will pin this comment! And I'll just add how to enable the full-frame average metering mode on Nikon Z cameras: you have to go the Custom Settings menu, section B (Metering/Exposure), and find the option called Center-weighted area. It's b5 on my camera but it might vary.
Thanks for the awesome summary! :)
For metering, I usually use center weighted metering on my Nikon z6ii and then change the weighted area to 12mm. This way the camera meters only in a small central circle of the frame.
What this allows for is no messing about with exposure compensation. I do 'expose and recompose' instead of 'focus and recompose'. I've mapped my AE-L function to the Fn1 button on the front of the camera.
For example, if I'm doing photography at night, and I want to expose for the traffic lights, I point my camera at the lights and since the metering mode is center weighted, the camera meters for the light. I then hit the AE-L function button and it locks the exposure. (I've set it up so that the exposure is locked until I hit the FN Button again). This way I know my photos are correctly exposed throughout my shoot and I only have to worry about composition. It's a cool trick, so hope it helps
Interesting, so you go the other way: a smaller center! The problem for me with that is that I often put subjects far from the center of the frame. But coupled with AE-L that makes sense, especially if you use it as a toggle. I find the exposure comp to be so quickly accessible that I prefer it. Also it allows fine-tuning, while with AE-L if you don't like the exposure you have to go lock onto something else, or at that point end up using exposure comp anyway. But I'm glad it works for! :)
@@EYExplore Yeah you probably don't have the hammy hands I do ;) I can never seem to find it comfortable to hold the exposure comp button and turn the dial.
Anyway, exposure compensation is not really necessary for me since I frame as much of the central circle as I need for the correct exposure. So for example if I only frame 50% of a light in the center, then the other 50% of the center is dark, which is like raising the exposure by a stop or so compared to having 100% of the light in the center. Once I tried it, something clicked for me and it is the easiest way for me to find the right exposure.
Great video thank you. I’m new to street photography and this helps a lot. What about white balance, do you use auto?
Thank you! Glad you found it useful! Yes, I used Auto WB because I shoot in raw and can just change this later. :)
Terrific video! I also am using a Nikon Z, in my case, it’s a Z6iii. For maximum speed have you set your camera to stay powered on or it just reacts fast enough to shut off and wake up without losing the moment??
Thanks!! Glad you enjoy it. The Z9 comes back from sleep instantly, so it's not a problem. The Z6II was a bit slow, so I think I made the sleep timer quite long. We just got a Z6III but haven't tried it yet. We'll make a video about it eventually! :)
All these settings are EXACTLY what I use. The tracking AF with back button focusing means you never need any other focus mode. It's great on the Fuji x-s20. Extra little hack: in that mode you can even still manually focus if you like, without changing any further settings - you just turn the focus ring and you see the focus peaking come on.
Awesome!! Yeah, same happens on the Nikon: you can always override AF by just turning the focus ring. :)
Since I discovered the 3d tracking focus years ago I never looked back and like you, it is the mode that is permanently set in my camera. With modern cameras this mode is increadibly fast and you can even make pictures of racing cars and fast moving animals with ease.
Yeah, I've been using is since my D3 in like 2010 haha, but it has evolved into something truly amazing! :)
10:05 dude that shit was straight outta Like a Dragon when you use the camera in game😂😂😂 cracked tf me up
Haha, well the Yakuza games are modeled on real life really closely hahah. :)
I totally agree with you .. With useful high ISO in modern cameras it's great to be in control of aperture and speed..
Great minds think a like! :)
@@EYExplore Ha ha ha but of course ..!!
This is very helpful. You just distilled in this video enough for the rest of us to practice over many days. Thank you.
As an aside, I don't think I have ever seen so many people looking into the camera as I have in this video.
Glad you found it useful! Sometimes I feel I'm rambling too much but I enjoy making this style of tutorial video, rather than something more controlled in a studio. And yeah I noticed that too! Lots of people wondering what we're up to. :)
Really great advice and explained so well, thank you!
Thank you! Glad to hear that!! :)
Useful content, super fast paced. Will have to replay at slower speed to double check my understanding😊.
So you use exp comp in combo with Manual Exp and Auto ISO?
Thing about auto-ISO (at least on my Sony and GR3) is that cam doesn’t display its chosen ISO value until shutter half-press, when it might be too late to change things.
Always use BBF - great tool.
Do you use auto white balance?
Haha, yeah I talk too fast! But I like to cram a lot info into a shorter video. It def helps to re-watch. But this is something I should work on. You are correct: exp comp in combo with M + Auto ISO. You're right it does not display the ISO until half-press. This is where the top LCD is very nice on larger cameras, but on my GR I just check in the moment and if I have to adjust shutter/aperture I can do it pretty quickly and easily with the camera help up in shooting position. And I should have mentioned WB! I forgot because I never think about it. It's on Auto forever haha.
Great advice as always, keep the content coming crew
Thanks!! Glad it's useful! :)
I always used matrix metering. I didn’t know about center weight averaging. Will give that a try.
Matrix works almost as well for me, but I do prefer average. :)
Great way to start the morning with a new video! I have the original Z6 and don’t have 3D tracking mode, would the equivalent be the auto-area focus?
If have also the original z6, it’s not really reliable…so in my opinion it’s not the equivalent 😢
The closest option on the Z6 is the Subject Tracking mode, which is access by pressing the OK button while in the Wide Area AF mode. It functions like 3D Tracking but the tracking point is larger and not quite as reliable. It's not bad though and still useful. When I have a Z6II I used it often! :)
In the video description could you please write up how to change the center weighted mode?
You have to go the Custom Settings menu, section B, Metering/Exposure, and find the option called Center-weighted area. It's b5 on my camera but it might vary. :)
Thanks for the video, Lukasz & co!
Thank you for watching! :)
@EYExplore Hi there! Great photographs! I'm planning to get the D4 very soon for my night photography and I was wondering (in your opinion) how clean images are at iso6400? I shoot extremely challenging low light situations and even though my D500 does a good job, it's a bit noisy at iso6400 and it hunts quite a bit when trying to lock on the focus in some challenging low lights. Thank you.
Thanks!! I've shot my D4 at 6400 a lot over the years and they are plenty clean. They're cleaner than the D500 but remember the resolution is only 16mp (D500 is 24mp), so if you downscale the D500 image to 16mp I think it will look similar to the D4. However, you may see more detail in the D4's shadows, but it's been a while so don't take my word on that. I recall the D4 having better AF than the D500 in low light, though, but it's been quite a few years since I've used these cameras. :)
@@EYExplore Thank you so much! Honestly 16mp is still enough for what I intend to shoot. I hardly make tight crops. The D500 is 20mp so it's only 4mp more than D4. I'll definitely go ahead and get the D4 because, as I mentioned earlier, the D500 tends to "hunt" in very challenging low light situations and I've heard amazing thinks about the D4's incredible sharp focusing in any situation. And it's full frame! As opposed to the APS-C crop sensor on the D500.
@@kwakua-kufuor6197 I'm sure you're gonna love it! :)
Hello Lukasz,
after watching all of your videos in the past, I've noticed something unusual in this one. It's the way people behave when they see you and Axel.
Usually the majority seems to ignore the camera, but this time it looks like a walk in a different country. Is it just me, or did you feel the same? What could be the cause?
P.s. I will try the "entire screen average" option on my Sony.
And... I don't know why, but you always give me the impression of a fighter, who came to Japan for a karate tournament, checking out the city shortly before it. 😄
Greetings from Germany. (Serdecznie pozdrawiam!)
Yeah, I noticed that, but I'm sure it's because the WHOLE time I'm taking directly into the camera. In other videos I spent a lot of time shooting and talking seemingly to myself, so people tend to look at ME and not into the video camera. When the look at me, you don't noticed them but when they look in the camera you make eye contact with them and it's very jarring.
Giving the impression of a fighter? I love it! I take that as a compliment. I'm glad I look badass enough to be in a movie like Blood Sport haha. Dzięki! :)
What camera strap do you use? :D
It's from Peak Design. If you'd like one, please use the link in the description! :)
Bought already the Tokyo spot map for this Nov Japan trip. Will spend 3 nights in Tokyo. BTW, is it AF 28mm F1.4 attached on Z9 in this video?
Awesome! Thank you! Yes, that is the F-mount 28 f/1.4E. It's my favorite lens of the last few years! :)
@@EYExplore Well noted. Thank you!
By the way, it seems all camera brand not interested to release native fast AF 28mm lens for mirrorless. Fujifilm has its equivalent but it is in APSC. I like this focal length a lot.
Tracking mode on ricoh gr is it single point focus
It has a dedicated tracking mode in the focus options. :)
I will set a fn button on Nikon Z9 to toggle between having peopl detection and not. Because sometimes I just want my 3d box to lock on some “object” for example a house.
Yes, that's a great idea! I didn't mention it in the video but I do use the front Fn buttons to quickly change focus modes. I like to go to the normal Wide Area AF mode and the let camera choose the subject in moments where I don't have enough time to put the 3D tracking box on my preferred subject. :)
Leica does have minimal aperture exposure mode but it doesn't work ..
You mean minimum shutter speed in aperture mode? I think there is some trick to it... I've had many people bring Leicas on the workshops and we usually were able to get it to work but I can't remember how without having the camera in hand.
@@EYExplore Would like to know that trick .. Maybe should google it.. Love your channel by the way ..!!
Trying to listen but keep getting distracted by all the Vellfires and Alphards in the background 😍
Haha. :)
Thanks Lukasz! But the exposure compensation dial won’t work in M mode, is it because my camera? (Ricoh GR II)
I think there is no exposure compensation in M on GRII. They added that on grIII if im not mistaken, where menu wheel controls exp. compensation in manual mode.
The only way exposure compensation won't work is if you don't have any of the settings on auto.
On the GR II you want to use TAv not M. On most cameras M refers to manual shutter and aperture, but ISO is a separate setting, so you can set Manual + Auto ISO (this is called TAv on the GR II) or Manual + Manual ISO (called Manual on the GR II). The GR III did away with TAv and just has an M mode on the dial and ISO is set separately. Hope that helps! :)
2:36 i like z9 viewfinder eyepiece. My fuji x-h1 and, for that matter, every fuji apart from x-t30 and x-s20 have that big rubber cup that catches on clothes and falls off eventually. Nikon one seems non-obtrusive but idk if that matters on z9 of all cameras)
And for the camera setting in question. I use average metering but center weighted. From my 5d days i used to shooting with only central dot and back button. Now i (with your reccomendation🙂) slowly switching to continious af with whole frame tracking. Which is not super amazing on x-h1, but definitely more useful than AF-S. paired with back button it allows same functionality as af-s with single dot anyway, if i press and release.
I have 2 auto iso modes with 1/15 and 1/250 limit.
Trying af-c definetly made shooting more enjoyable.
And i know for raw it doesnt matter, but i shoot a lot of green like grass for example,and auto wb usually gives magenta cast in that case. I left wb set to daylight and found out that for the majority of my shots i like jpegs as is. Sure i can squeeze more dr out of raw files. Or just set shadows -2 in quick menu in super contrasty scene. Im talking like whole dr range. For example shooting from dim room outside, shadows can use some boost. In all the other cases, im talking noon sun with deep black shadows, i found resulting jpeg image with no adjustments true to live or at the very least i feel like time it will take me to edit raw and lift shadows is not really worth it. Im just hobbyist and im not saying everyone should shoot jpeg only with fixed WB. Im just glad i found out what works for me, and i can photograph and not think about it.
Saying that, i need to give leica a try with their dngs and ricoh too😅
Yeah, that BBF pairing with AF-C is key! I generally keep the WB on auto but once in a while I do change if the photos are consistently coming out weird, such as in a forest or something (shade and greenery). But beyond that I save all my editing for the studio. I don't do any settings in camera. But I do spend a lot of time editing haha, so maybe it's a curse. :)
On my sony I can't set a min shutter speed in apature mode and it's so annoying.
I'm not sure which Sony you have but it may in the main (red) menu buried in an ISO menu or called Auto ISO min. SS.... or something like that. But this does depend on model. :)
Great tips. I think people first trying to get good settings should take this video as an input and try to adapt to their specific camera and style. Because from my experience everyone does it a little different and has their own logic. For me simplicity is absolute key. Zone focus and manual mode with Auto ISO, basically P&S (it’s a GR after all). but at the same time I can very quickly adapt to lower light, change focus etc. I think having to fiddle with your camera is one of the biggest hurdles for new Street Photographers because speed is so important. I remember my first time trying it. Found a scene, stood two meters in front and then took like 30 seconds to properly adjust ss, ap, iso, focus etc with my 700D. Thankfully my Winogrand imitations where on point so my subjects didn’t seem to mind a doofus with a camera in front of them.
Totally agree! It's not meant to be prescriptive but just an overview of how I do it. And then it's up to each individual to take the bits that are useful for them. The Winogrand Kung Fu (Wing Chun?) is key in many cases haha! :)