I'm a big fan of my wood body planes. Both vintage and my own shop made Krenov style planes. So mostly I smiled and nodded. But at the same time I picked up a few gems of knowledge. Great Channel and thanks for spreading the word on good hand tools wood working.
I have made my own jointer planes the easy way. A long straight chunk of wood cut at 45degrees two more cuts on the mitre saw for the throat. Glue on two cheeks ,make a wedge, and ..bingo... Suprisingly easy. I bought a 200 year old one with a huge throat. They both work wonderfully and I don't need an expensive cast iron Marvell Cheers and sshheeeyoomm
Wait, hold on a moment. Mind blown 🤯 at 6:30 when you explain how one can simply by eye see the evidence of a laminated blade by the different rust pattern. I had presumed that had been due to a recently lapped back, but dang, since you dropped that bomb shell and really zoomed in and really took a beat to drive it home that the rust pattern is a tell-tale sign of lamination really allowed me to mentally visualize how a thin piece of steel was literally bonded (by hand forging?) to the iron. This also really drives it home for me why it’s called “an iron” - like holy moly, Graham, keep the good stuff coming. I love your direct and authoritative style with wisdom where everyone else just repeats things like “laminated blade” you took the time to show it in a way I have never (for some reason) witnessed before.
I was lucky enough to acquire a set of wooden planes. At the time I knew very little about them except that I had to have them 😁 watching your videos has answered most of my questions about them, including, what to look for, reconditioning old planes, and the correct use. Thank you.
I’ve found a couple Stanley planes on eBay for a fairly reasonable price. One tool I couldn’t find forever was a proper Stanley router. The eBay prices are ridiculous. Here in northern Virginia there’s not many antique stores and pawn shops and second hand stores mostly sell used power tools and clothing. Luckily, I decided to take a vacation in the country side, going to West Virginia, Kentucky, and Ohio, stopping along the way at antique stores I’d see by the road. In the middle of nowhere I found a beautiful Stanley 71. Needless to say, it came home with me and I’ve regularly used it ever since.
Dear Graham, I just wanted to say greetings from the Netherlands. I'll keep an eye out for wooden planes in my local second hand shops. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge!
Great episode sir. I was not aware of the origins of the offset totes. I have seen them but didn’t know enough to think it was special. Thank you for the education.
Great video, Graham! And I suddenly realised that the volume and sound quality has much improved! So much so that I didn't think about the sound till you hit the microphone with the plane :^)
I recently purchased a Stanley #30 transitional plane and followed your teaching from a previous video. It works great for me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Lol. Love the auctions. Bad part is when people start figuring out that you know what your looking at. Then they start bidding in a frenzy any time you show an interest. Got them a while back ,got tired of everything I bid on going through the roof, so I started bidding on what I knew was junk.
I may be wrong here, wouldn’t be the first time, but at 5:54 in the video, you say hit the back of the body to "set more", and I've been of the assumption that hitting the back also loosens the wedge. I believe some planes have a strike button on the back for this purpose, that being to loosen the wedge & iron. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that is how I've been removing my wedges.
I tap the strike button if I want to back the iron off just a little; I hit the back of the body primarily when i want to fully pop out the iron and wedge for cleaning/sharpening. To set the iron in more I tap the iron itself.
To me rather than a European plane it looks more like a 18th /early 19th century British or American plane The offset tote , and rounded iron are hallmarks of an 18th century British or American plane. Who is the maker of the iron ? On a side note I’ve really been enjoying your videos ! Great content
You say it was common in European planes only that the top of the irons were rounded whilst British and American planes only had the corners clipped off. Can I remind you good sir that in the 18th century British planes all the irons were rounded off including moulding plane irons.
Thank you Graham! I bought similar, but slightly larger plane (80 cm) and it is kinda cool. However, Record 5.5 is enough for almost any jointing job...
Thanks Graham - this is great to know, as i have a hand tools market coming up later this month that im planning to visit. Hopefully there is something worth getting there. Much Appreciated.
Probably rare to find those in the US, but they are actually common here (from the Netherlands myself) 😀 What brand is on the iron? I think I saw script lettering, which might mean it is actually french (Peugeot freres).
Is there a specific rationale in favor of re-mouthing rather than re-soling (I would find the latter less technical, I believe)? After all, it's the whole sole that's wearing out, not just the mouth..
I’m surprised that you purchased that for about $20. Particularly at an antiques show where dealers often ask absurd prices for everything. I once saw a cruddy old cow bell for $60 at an outdoor antiques show in upstate NY recently. I hope you intend to repair that nick on the front end of the plane body.
What a pity. There could be initials like PD, JNJ or JNIJ, SvE and so on, some with a crown on top. Then we could identify the maker. If there are any - they are on the front side. Many thanks for all your wonderful videos. You are raising and educating a new generation woodworkers!
I'm a big fan of my wood body planes. Both vintage and my own shop made Krenov style planes. So mostly I smiled and nodded. But at the same time I picked up a few gems of knowledge. Great Channel and thanks for spreading the word on good hand tools wood working.
Thank you so much!
I have made my own jointer planes the easy way. A long straight chunk of wood cut at 45degrees two more cuts on the mitre saw for the throat. Glue on two cheeks ,make a wedge, and ..bingo...
Suprisingly easy.
I bought a 200 year old one with a huge throat.
They both work wonderfully and I don't need an expensive cast iron Marvell
Cheers and sshheeeyoomm
Wait, hold on a moment. Mind blown 🤯 at 6:30 when you explain how one can simply by eye see the evidence of a laminated blade by the different rust pattern. I had presumed that had been due to a recently lapped back, but dang, since you dropped that bomb shell and really zoomed in and really took a beat to drive it home that the rust pattern is a tell-tale sign of lamination really allowed me to mentally visualize how a thin piece of steel was literally bonded (by hand forging?) to the iron. This also really drives it home for me why it’s called “an iron” - like holy moly, Graham, keep the good stuff coming. I love your direct and authoritative style with wisdom where everyone else just repeats things like “laminated blade” you took the time to show it in a way I have never (for some reason) witnessed before.
Thanks!
I was lucky enough to acquire a set of wooden planes. At the time I knew very little about them except that I had to have them 😁 watching your videos has answered most of my questions about them, including, what to look for, reconditioning old planes, and the correct use. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Thank you Graham loved this lesson.
You're welcome!
I’ve found a couple Stanley planes on eBay for a fairly reasonable price. One tool I couldn’t find forever was a proper Stanley router. The eBay prices are ridiculous. Here in northern Virginia there’s not many antique stores and pawn shops and second hand stores mostly sell used power tools and clothing. Luckily, I decided to take a vacation in the country side, going to West Virginia, Kentucky, and Ohio, stopping along the way at antique stores I’d see by the road. In the middle of nowhere I found a beautiful Stanley 71. Needless to say, it came home with me and I’ve regularly used it ever since.
Good to hear!
Dear Graham, I just wanted to say greetings from the Netherlands. I'll keep an eye out for wooden planes in my local second hand shops. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge!
You're very welcome!
Great episode sir. I was not aware of the origins of the offset totes. I have seen them but didn’t know enough to think it was special. Thank you for the education.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good afternoon from Copperhill Tn.
Hello there!
Good afternoon from Auburn Maine
Excellent as long as the tool can function or be made to that’s good enough for me.
Absolutely
Great video, Graham! And I suddenly realised that the volume and sound quality has much improved! So much so that I didn't think about the sound till you hit the microphone with the plane :^)
Great to hear!
I recently purchased a Stanley #30 transitional plane and followed your teaching from a previous video. It works great for me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great!
I truly love watching your wonderful videos, extremely well done very informative. Thank you for all of your knowledge!:)
Glad you like them!
Very useful information. Thanks again
Glad it was helpful!
Lol. Love the auctions. Bad part is when people start figuring out that you know what your looking at. Then they start bidding in a frenzy any time you show an interest. Got them a while back ,got tired of everything I bid on going through the roof, so I started bidding on what I knew was junk.
Ha, ha!
I may be wrong here, wouldn’t be the first time, but at 5:54 in the video, you say hit the back of the body to "set more", and I've been of the assumption that hitting the back also loosens the wedge. I believe some planes have a strike button on the back for this purpose, that being to loosen the wedge & iron. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that is how I've been removing my wedges.
Nver tried that - but if it works, great!
I tap the strike button if I want to back the iron off just a little; I hit the back of the body primarily when i want to fully pop out the iron and wedge for cleaning/sharpening. To set the iron in more I tap the iron itself.
Always look but haven’t found one yet. Thanks for the tips.
Good luck!
Wow, what a lucky find. Lucky you 🎉
Yep, sometimes you get lucky.
Fantastic! Thanks a bunch for all the tips, Graham! 😃
Soon enough I'm going to start searching for planes again!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you. You too.
Sehr schön, danke Ihnen Herr Blackburn. Ich besitze auch einen, funktioniert Seher gut.
Grüße aus Berlin
Bitte schön!
Great tips. Thank you Sir.
You're welcome!
To me rather than a European plane it looks more like a 18th /early 19th century British or American plane
The offset tote , and rounded iron are hallmarks of an 18th century British or American plane.
Who is the maker of the iron ?
On a side note I’ve really been enjoying your videos ! Great content
No legible markings on the iron....
You say it was common in European planes only that the top of the irons were rounded whilst British and American planes only had the corners clipped off. Can I remind you good sir that in the 18th century British planes all the irons were rounded off including moulding plane irons.
Very true.
Thank you Graham!
I bought similar, but slightly larger plane (80 cm) and it is kinda cool.
However, Record 5.5 is enough for almost any jointing job...
I would say a number 4 is good enough for any job. I still like using my 60cm planes to do long surfaces thought
Hey, whatever works.
thanks
You're welcome!
Offset handle and round top blade are also often indicators of early US -18th century planes….
Is there a makers mark on the front of the plane???
Not that I can make out.
Thanks Graham - this is great to know, as i have a hand tools market coming up later this month that im planning to visit. Hopefully there is something worth getting there. Much Appreciated.
Good luck!
Probably rare to find those in the US, but they are actually common here (from the Netherlands myself) 😀
What brand is on the iron? I think I saw script lettering, which might mean it is actually french (Peugeot freres).
Quite possibly, it's almost impossible to make out the stamp. I'll keep trying with a bigger magnifying glass.
Is there a specific rationale in favor of re-mouthing rather than re-soling (I would find the latter less technical, I believe)? After all, it's the whole sole that's wearing out, not just the mouth..
I've always found the remouthing to be the simplest way.
I’m surprised that you purchased that for about $20. Particularly at an antiques show where dealers often ask absurd prices for everything. I once saw a cruddy old cow bell for $60 at an outdoor antiques show in upstate NY recently.
I hope you intend to repair that nick on the front end of the plane body.
as soon as I get time!
How well does that off-centered tote work for someone who is left-handed? It looks like it would make it more challenging to use correctly.
It is right handed only, when it's to the right of the centre.
Yep, it's a little harder for lefties.
Hi Graham, are there any markings on the front of the maker?
Not that I can make out yet.
What a pity. There could be initials like PD, JNJ or JNIJ, SvE and so on, some with a crown on top. Then we could identify the maker. If there are any - they are on the front side. Many thanks for all your wonderful videos. You are raising and educating a new generation woodworkers!