Inside a "4kW" ebay power controller with schematic.
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- Опубликовано: 22 окт 2015
- This is a look at another Chinese industrial control component.
You can support this channel at / bigclive
At first glance this phase angle power controller has a strong case resemblance to the common 12V chassis power supplies. But this is a beefy triac based mains power controller for things like lamps, heaters or some motors.
It has a few notable features:-
Nice case, beefy triac (one of the biggest of its type if it's original), extra circuitry to give greater stability and output symmetry at lower levels and a bit of effort to ensure that tracks are robust enough to handle fault conditions.
It does have two slight issues. A glass fuse instead of a ceramic one and a seemingly excessive resistor value in the snubber network. 4700 ohms as opposed tot he more common 100 or even 47 ohms. 
Наука
I've always wondered why those diac/triac dimmers can't dim evenly down to complete shut-off. Thanks a ton for explaining that!
I have myself sometimes used bridge rectifiers different from their 'normal' use because I needed such a particular diode arrangement and they happened to come in a cheap package like that.
Of course the meaning is disguised just seeing this as rectifier symbol in a circuit.
It always makes sense to actually write out the diodes in a schematic to see these kind of hidden (rather interesting in this case) meanings.
Thanks for the teardown and detailed explanations about your findings.
For what it is worth, a company I used to work for made a whole series of TRIAC based DC motor controllers, and the snubbers were all 47k and 0.01uF (10nF). I never questioned how they got those values, but the circuit and TRIAC worked fine.
I have no background in electrical work and struggle to wrap my head around watts vs amps vs volts (basically anything electrical) but I still binge watch these lol. Great presentation and ability to talk fluidly!
Fluidly? Do you mean "Fluently"?
Gregg Macey nope, fluidly. Like water, he is able to ramble smoothly. Fluidly accurately describes that.
Gregg Macey lol
It's ELECTRONICS not ELECTRICAL!
It might be informative to see that power supply connected to an oscilloscope comparing the waveform while using the 4k7 in the snubber to that of a 100 ohm resistor. I wonder how it changes the snubber performance.
would it be worth swapping it out anyway?
Yea that is what I was wondering about. But I trust this schematic compare to what is being pushed out there as 100 ohm.
Also the extra resistor that goes with the potentiometer is in the middle between it and the capacitor. They are typically shows to be above the potentiometer. I wonder if that matters or not. Probably not.
But the whole idea of the bridge rectifier, I think it is a big deal and what has been explained makes lots of sense. Stability matter big time.
I know that without it, any good motor will act as if there is no potentiometer and by pass it and will take off without doing anything.
The great Resistance on the snubber is effecting the time constant of that of the RC configuration (Making the charge time longer). This most probably reduces stress on the capacitor when there is a high inductive load present .
Hey Clive I know you've done a computer power supply tear down but I was wondering if you could compare a cheap PSU to a notable good quality one....in terms of quality of components and circuit architecture.
That sounds interesting and I am also in favour of that test. But I know that the brand Seasonic pretty much is the leading producer and that they make most of them. Just look at their warranty of 12 years!
@@sykoteddy Computerparts doesn't have to be crappy, as the requirements rising with every new release of hardware, I still have some 20y old hardware that runs well, even the cheap stuff. Some cheap psus blow up because people tent to run them close to theyr limit. Back than a 250w psu was enough, my 4y old setup runs on 550w psu, the one I build 2y ago already need a 660w psu and a pc with very recent hardware requires at least a 750w. Just as an example, that hardware just ages quick enough.
instablaster...
@@Scootertuner420 Well , in case of PSU's those are probably one of the components that you can not buy a cheap one, nor a expensive, just the wattage you need from a good brand, because very cheap PSU, uses components such as capacitors that are far from what we call a pure component (important for signal conditioning and noise filtering), and what's the problem? Unwanted current spikes, instable voltage, your coomputer will work however motherboard components will suffer, motherboard needs to work with a good PSU so the signal flow will be "smoother" I mean the risk of getting a wrong reading or a exploded cap on mother is lower; Also let's say that you house main fail the chance of a cheap power supply produce a giant current spike and your motherBoard get fried is even higher, I am the guy who bought a cheapier GPU to get a powerfull PSU and guess what nowadays I have a beast gpu with the same PSU chillin cause I know that whatever it happens my PSU will handle the situation while with a cheap your brain will be Please do not burn anything, It is like driving a car with bad tires sooner or later something will happen....
@@Scootertuner420 only 20 years … I still have a UK 101 that I assembled myself in 1980 and that runs fine .. 😂😂😂
The label is very logic, it's a very efficient way of supplying the sticker for your case, you peel of the blue part, then you peel off the sticker from the blue foil and stick it to your case where the module is installed. By doing it this way they are 100 percent sure that the sticker doesn't get damaged during transport.
Thank you for mentioning Amateur Radio it’s much appreciated.
Agreed. VA6MEC
@@gmtech68 Yup! WD3WTF
I had to watch the bridge rectifier explanation twice before I got it. (I'm getting old.) But that is quite genius. Thanks for the explanation.
It took me a while to get my head round it too when I first found it.
@@bigclivedotcom Can you give a link to that application note?
I use one to control the heating element on my pot still, it works a treat and the controller only reaches 40-45C after 3 hours use @2600W load which I think is acceptable and definitely better than I expected when I was installing a cheap Chinese component.
Congratulations on finally solving the white-balance problem. Good job.
Superb! Like a previous comment I wondered about the poor performance of dimmers at low levels and now I understand why!
Great video, interesting application with that bridge rectifier.
Man your videos are great, I think I just powerwatched ten of them. Keep it coming :)
I can't admit to understanding all the electronics, but was delighted to hear that this regulator is designed to deliver smoother power at the lower end. My Ryobi drill is very spluttery and rough on slow RPMs and I'm really hoping this will help that. Also, several units of this type have been condemned as death traps, with circuit boards virtually touching unearthed casing, so I'm glad this thing appears to be relatively safe (despite looking hideous and having only one mounting hole on the front). Thanks for the clear and meticulous breakdown.
None of these modules are really up to most safety standards. For better drill control I recommend a good cordless drill.
@@bigclivedotcom Thanks. I'm using my corded drill in a stand. Unfortunately most cordless drills have a pressure-controlled speed trigger which can't be accurately dialled in.
This is why if I'm drawing out a circuit with a bridge rectifier, and it's not immediately obvious how it's being used, I do _not_ draw it as just a "box" like you did. I draw out the full "diode diamond" instead, because that often makes it much easier to see what's going on if people are using a bridge rectifier in an unconventional way (i.e. not actually as a rectifier), which does happen surprisingly often I've found.
I bought one of these after watching Clive's video. I added an earth wire to the screw and added a large inductor to the output. Also insulated the top and back of the heatsink because it is VERY close to the case.
I did exactly the same as you as i was concerned about proximity of the heatsink to case screws and added an earth
Assume an inductor on output would be unwise if load was also inductive such as a motor ?
The inductor is to filter the output. This device works the same way as a light dimmer. If you take apart a dimmer switch, it has a coil and a small X capacitor (100n) on the output.
i tested vacuum cleaner universal motors before with this and there were no problems. It handled the inductive load fine.
I also use it to slowly increase the input voltage to SMPS that ive repaired. I can't afford a proper variac.
Thanks for this explanation, I've draw the schematic of the controller myself and was wondering what the purpose was of the bridge rectifier, you made it clear for me!
i instantly knew the 470k R should have been 100, as i watched your other triac vid 20 mins ago, the 2 together are amazing. i especially like the journey of FBR discovery you personally embarked on in this one. and saying a diac is a bit like a bi-directional zenner made it's effect instantly comprehendible. thanks
Another point to note about fault conditions is the extra solder they have put on some tracks. In fault conditions this will sputter or could even create a vapour cloud which shorts out *everything*. Fault condition testing can be quite fun actually! Place a sheet of blank paper under the board to catch the sputter, then hang it on your wall!
I've been wondering about this topic for three weeks. Thank you!
Your videos are so relaxing. Anyone with a bit of knowledge about schematics and components in general should be able to understand
The one thing better than watching you "take things to bits", is you explaining what is going on and whether the bits are good or not.
You know so much shit about electronic circuits. You are so good, Clive. And Your Delivery!! Ace, Bloke. ( I am US. I hope "Bloke" is not an insult. I know; "Google it!". I don't think it is an insult. I am rapt when watching and listening to you. Thank You, Clive.
Thanks Clive. I was just investigating putting a treadmill motor in my mini lathe and you popped up in the recommended. Bonus, because I hadn't seen this video.
I see that the youtube algorithm has chosen this video for this week. I watched it a few years back but that was on my other account so decided to watch it again. I'm pleased to say that, having watched Clive's videos for a several years meant I understood this so much better this time around. :) Learning by osmosis is so much easier than studying.
This video seems to be very active at the moment. I'm not sure why.
@@bigclivedotcom I've noticed it being suggested to me by youtube all week. It seems that you've won the youtube lottery! ;)
Wow! Even though I watched this yesterday it's STILL in my feed! I had to click the three little dots and tell our overlords that I'm not interested in watching it yet again.
I have one of those. Never have developed the guts to hook it up since it came with no documentation, and no markings as to what hooked to what. I did take the cover off, and sort of figured out how to hook it up, the plan was to control my router for my woodshop so I could cut down the speed when needed. That said, it was advertised as 240/110 volt and I was really hoping it would work but after having problems with about every item I got from China that had the duel markings I decided to let it sit in a box out in my garage. Thanks for the info, when the snow is at last gone and the weather warms a bit, I may try hooking her up to my router table and see if it will do the job for me.
Thanks. I learnt something and that's the point. Never knew about the ceramic fuse point either. Really useful one to keep in mind.
I often wondered about the sharp edge from triacs on inductive loads especially transformers. I was thinking or experimenting wit ha large triac before a arc welder to drop the power but was worried about the high frequencies generated causing massive heat problems in the welders transformer.
As a radio ham, I don't actually use those bands (2m/70cm personally, I know some HF guys though), but the only thing worse than an unfiltered dimmer is those awful powerline ethernet gadgets. Great way to turn all the house wiring into a giant antenna for digital noise!
73s, 2E0GXE
Powerline units are a ridiculous waste of power too. I had a set which took 16 watts. All day long.
+drkastenbrot Very interesting you mentioned this, I decided to check the pair I own. They do seem to be getting a little more efficient now. It costs me £2.09 pm to run mine with no idle at all. They run at 5.6w on full load. Further reading for those interested here: tinyurl.com/nbb9hmc
+drkastenbrot Yeah, I have a system that can get ethernet from one end of the house to the other with no power usage above normal at all! (it's called a cable lol)
+TheChipmunk2008 I wish I had ethernet handy when we had the floor boards up to fit the central heating, I would have loved to wire up the house properly. I have to make do with powerline, not the favourite solution but the best for the circumstances.
+Ben Thomson Usually even WLAN is more performant than that and it at least stays on its frequency. Those thingies are really just made for the "oh my god WLAN is killing me" guys to make money. In the end you'll have more fun putting a proper cable in your house or moving the computer.
An idea I just had is just putting a directed antenna(like 20dB) on your WLAN. That wouldn't emit any electromagentic waves where it shouldn't and gives a solid connection as long as no one walks through.
73
DO1JOM
I have disassembled several of those controllers, because it's way cheaper to rip them apart for components than to by components and in every one of them it was 100 ohm resistor in snubber circuit, so I am with you. I think that you are right when you say that they have made a mistake.
The snubber circuit in parallel with triac anodes always allows a leakage current.With these values is about to 6mA.Larger capacitors and lower resistors allows high leakage current.Especially when triac is used as an on/off switch then you might notice your low consumption led lamps to flicker when supposed to be switched off due to that leakage current.
Since you reviewed this, three years ago now, the only thing different between this and the ones sold today is seemingly the blue protective film, and the screw terminals are marked, and have by he same yellow/orange cover as the power supply
I like your comments regarding ceramic fuses. It should be noted, however, that not all ceramic fuses actually have sand inside them. The fuses sold by a particular Australian and New Zealand electronics retailer (known for ripping off Freetronics work) are standard air-filled fuses but have a ceramic case. The inside is identical to your normal glass fuses although the fuses are sold as ceramic fuses.
Wow glad I found this video, I have one of these laying in a box back in my garage in South Dakota (I am hiding from the winter right now sitting in the Sun in Arizona at this time) It has been laying there now for a couple of years because I really didn't dare hook it up to my wood router. That what I purchased it for, as my 2.5 horse router is a single speed, and I have some huge bits that cannot run at full speed, lest they shake the whole machine apart. These are made for cutting things like chair rails or making cabnit door inserts. If this works right, I can slow the machine down enough to make the cuts without burning up the bits or tearing up the wood when it begins cutting. MIne came with no labels on the terminals but I have taken it apart and pretty much figured out which is which, then made a label for it so I would remember it the next time I dig it out. Thanks a million for explaining how this works and how to wire it up
Well here it is, another year has passed, the regulator is still laying in the box in the garage. The router has not been turned on, in fact my daughter knocked the hell out of my table trying to get an old bicycle out so I could try and sell it, and I have yet to build up the energy to go out and see how much damage has been done. She did it at my request so I can't really blame her. Doc's say I am drugged out on the prescription meds they have been telling me to take every damn day so now the weaning off of narcotic and anti what ever the hell they are anti drugs. My head seems to be clearing, after 3 months of sleeping day and night with only waking hours dedicated to eating and going to the BR. Nice to be awake again, but most of the damn spring and summer have gone and I have done NOTHING. Damn doctors anyhow.
@@JerryEricsson Get well Jerry!
So I find a thing I really would like to find out more about and Clive already did it specially for me 5 years ago it seems 😂 thanks Clive!
Back in the first half of the 1970s I took a standard electrical box and installed a dimmer in it along with a duplex outlet, the original use for it being to subdue the lights on the christmas tree at the time all incandescent. After that this device was used to dim the bedroom lamps, which worked out quite nicely. Unless I wanted to listen to something on AM radio, in which case I had to turn the unit off, or the generated noise made it impossible to use the radio. I have some salvaged ferrites and should probably install one in there, as I don't believe that it came with one installed. So many years later and the thing is still working fine, excepting a bit of mechanical sluggishness in the pot. More recently I offered to build one of these for my lady, and we went out and got what I thought was the same stuff, and I built it. Unfortunately that one displays the exact instability you describe here. Turn it all the way down so that the light pretty much goes out, and then when you want a bit of light you turn it up but nothing happens until you get to a certain point and then it *jumps* to more light than what I'd wanted, at which point you can turn it down a bit. The dimmers in both cases are the sort of thing that might be installed in the wall, as the last place I lived had one for the light over the dining table (which I had to replace when it decided one day to let the smoke out). I haven't really opened them up to see what the differences might be, or why one would exhibit that behavior and the other one didn't. Do you have any thoughts on this?
The Chinese have several "standards" like the EU DIN packages. In many cases, the frames are the protective earths. Cheap, fast, safe.
Why am I even watching this?
I love you Clive!
This is for resistive loads only (Power factor 1) and is triggered from the load, for an inductive load (power factor other than 1) you need to trigger from the line and there are power controller designed as such. Also when triggering from the line you wouldn't need that extra circuitry to stabilize it. Basically this is just a high power light dimmer. BTW the 10 amp fuse will only give you 1200 watts at 120 volts and 2400 watts at 240 volts...
Good informative upload, there Clive , cheers 👍
I must say this is the most useful and no bullshit video I have watched thus far. And I thank you for that.
I am curious how you found that resource in regard to getting to explain what was going on. Also there seem to be just one capacitor in the diagram. There is two caps in the device.
And I thank you once again.
I've dismantled a faulty dimmer that came with some fake Arri light a year ago, the inside schematic is quite similar and the fun facs is that the pcb has the room for the bridge rectifier but is not used, if you are interested i can send you some photos of that circuit.
(the Ebay listing is no more available but it was called: As ARRI 300/650/1000W Tungsten Studio Video Spot light+case+Air stands Kit)
Great video Clive. SCR/ Tiacs are fascinating things. You might have added how the capacitor manages to allow the dimmer range to be extended by phase shifting the signal to the diac. Always fun to watch your channel
"I'll put that away cause it's quite shite" Mate, as a fellow Scot, that made me chuckle
Very interesting, never seen this bridge rectifying circuit before, genius though. Thank you
Clive's rule of thumb for about 1W/A power dissipation is about on the mark for this device. Here's a table of common UK heating element values versus amps and heat dissipation (plus 4kW). Values are Watts RMS / Amps @240V / Watts heat. See AN2703 for the equation used.
𝟸𝟶𝟶𝟶 𝟾.𝟹 𝟽.𝟶𝟽𝟷𝟼𝟾𝟻𝟶𝟷𝟽
𝟸𝟺𝟶𝟶 𝟷𝟶 𝟾.𝟼𝟻𝟸𝟼𝟾𝟾𝟼𝟾𝟽
𝟹𝟶𝟶𝟶 𝟷𝟸.𝟻 𝟷𝟷.𝟷𝟸𝟾𝟹𝟼𝟶𝟾𝟼
𝟺𝟶𝟶𝟶 𝟷𝟼.7 𝟷𝟻.𝟻𝟹𝟸𝟸𝟻𝟾𝟿𝟸
I have the 'digital' version of this device and will be trying it out tomorow in a plastic unventilated but spacious enclosure at 2kW for about 90 minutes. We'll see if it overheats. I think that little heatsink would benefit from active cooling. The usual disclaimers about the chances of this actually being a genuine ST part apply.
This also taught me that the dimmer in my lamp must be one of said unstable dimmers; the lamp will suddenly come on after you’ve turned it a bit and will the have dimming function
Im in a rabbit hole trying to turn the speed of my die grinder down. I used to be into electronics when i was young, this is very cool. I may try this one out.
Hi Clive, I've got a question regarding live and neutral inputs. I got basically the same controller (except it's a digital one) that has marked L and N input/output on the chassis itself, so I was wondering if it would work if live and negative lines are switched because I'm from EU and our plugs are not polarized (you can plug them both ways)?
Or is there any other component that can I use before this controller in the circuit to make sure that live input is always live, no matter how I plug it?
Thanks for sharing this review, I like reviewing stuff before buying it. You said you have not seen it built like that, you never to old to learn, might be a 10yrs Asian boy or girl took a old made controller and improve on it to power and control a toy they have or school work where their teacher give them projects to improve on old equipment. Never underestimate the Chinese way of doing things.
In my experience electronics design engineers in China are generally first class at their job. Most problems arise from the changes made when management tell the production guys to cut costs below the limits needed by the original design.
Hey Clive, have you tested yours? Just bought one. Tested it out, and it works beautifully.
I have noticed that you sport a sticking plaster or a small cut most times lol, not to distract from your excellent understanding of your presentations.
Always something to learn!
Excellent, thank you for the video.
I'm using this very thing to automatically limit a boiler power (from home assistant with esphome) so that it matches pv solar. I considered using a digital potentiometer but there were complications, mainly too much heat dissipation, and maybe live mains on the microcontroller so I ended up using a servo. After 1.5 years of continuous adjustment the pot gave up so I replaced the whole thing wih something very similar but this time detachable thus easily replaceable potentiometer. There are better sollution but this works for me. Needs active cooling.
I have a suspicion on that the 4K7 is also for stability, I think it is a part of making the rectifier stable at low voltage, but have you found it out?
Radioastronomers hate RF noise as well.
Excellent video sir.
Just bought one today from Amazon...I need for my meat grinder machine to slow down the speed when I'm making sausage next month before Christmas 😏
Thanks for another great video. I have just got one of these to use on my solar immersion heater control. I see many different suppliers of the same thing but they show completely different connections to what looks like an identical unit. Any input would be appreciated, should not the fuse be on the input?
Thank u very very mutch
Full explnation and schamatic drawing
Was kind of hoping you would test it and see how close to 4kw you would pull before it chooches
Hi Clive, did you managed to find which terminal is the neutral and live on the AC Input ?
Thanks for the nice Analysis - I don't like the screw so close to the high voltage track on the backside close to MT1. This could easely short out and put the heatsink at high voltage.
I'm still an AM user and indeed have trouble with anything using chopped signals, good side of it, I know more about the LEDs build quality this way :)
Hi Clive,
Can you please advise how can I test the SCR to determine whether it works correctly? My concern is that with no load and connected to a 220V supply I receive an output of 220V irrespective of the potentiometer position.
Will the Volts drop when the Treadmill motor is connected and then only increase as the potentiometer is dialed in?
As the Treadmill motor is max 180V I do not want to connect it and then the motor gets blown as the Voltage is not regulated?
Regards
Hendrik
Is that speed controller suitable for a wood lathe (universal 220V motor) for example? I would like to bypass the 4 speeds pulleys and belt system but my concern is that it could stall under load at slow speeds.
I used it on a welding machine and changed the fuse with 20 amps and it works
20 Amp ! you might as well put a 3mm nail, It will work !!!!!
My version that I just bought a couple of weeks ago came with a 20A fuse installed.
Excellent job
Indeed friend, i allways use 47ohm in the snubb
I basically spent my whole Saturday watching your videos, no regrets.
Hey Clive can I put this on the primary of a transformer to adjust the high output current of the secondary and if that doesn’t work could you suggest something else great vid thanks
So would this work as a speed control for a 1/2 to 1 hp motor? I'm not worried about maintaining speed under load as it wouldn't really have any, just adjust the speed it turns.
no plans to plug it in and test it out?
The bridge rectifier reduces hysteresis on the potentiometer by firing the triac with a pulse of consistent polarity.
Hi Clive, I just bought one but the snubber capacitor broke off during transport. Would it be ok if I reolace it by a F1774 100nF (250V)? I'm planning to use it on a 2K heater.
thanks you sir for your demonstration
what type of ceramic fuse would you go for, also if i use a 5k potentiometer would i have more control over power or would that be insufficent to get it up to full speed. Or would a 100k one give you a better starting speed it would be used with a treadmill motor. to power a sander,grinding machine .TIA
I have a 2 kW variant of this triac..use it to control the speed of a 120 volt PM DC motor. It feeds a full wave bridge rectifier with a large run capacitor to help smooth the resultant DC. works but still noisy. need to add a choke ib series to keep from blowing the fuse.
I just ordered a SCR and rectifier to control a 130v DC motor with FF 1.0. How did you size the capacitor? I'm not sure how to figure that out.
i think you will find this a SCR not a triac.
Replace this with an triac and double your power and decrease the noise.
I have had a quick read but did not see any comment on this.
The reason that glass fuses are not good for high current interuption is that the fuse wire vapourises and can coat the outside of the glass forming another fuse link. The problem with that is the glass keeps it cool so it needs a lot higher current to blow and this will shatter the glass leaving you just the end caps.
Great explanation. Thanks
Thank you for the fine lesson.
I'm new on this field but that looked neat. What's you take? Are the getting beyond better at engineering?
Thank you sir! this is very useful 👍
Could you please run a test on this module ie on a power drill or similar thing ??
i once opened an old lamp dimmer switch and it had a 100k resistor and a 1nf cap snubber
It all goes "whoosh" over my head, but it's still very interesting.
This reminds me of the driving board for my cheap 20 euro soldering station. Its almost exactly the same but the pot switch can also cut the power off. Seemed cheap but it could do what it was meant for though when set to lowest value, just before turning it off, it let 90 volts on the heating element which is kinda bad isnt it?But i guess it was the needed minimum for minimum heat.
Does this happen to this device too?
do you suggest changing it to a 200k linear potentiometer to have a better range ?
The heat sink screw looks excitingly close to a live track. I'd be trepidacious installing this near ants! If the case is grounded and touching the heat sink, it might be on the wrong side of the fuse as well, but I couldn't really tell from the picture.
Hi. First I want to say I love your informative and engaging vids. As an electronic dunce I have learned a lot. I am trying to control the speed of a universal motor and am now happy, thanks to your material, that I will use a pwm circuit similar to this but I am really struggling to work out what needs adding to the circuit to allow torque to be maintained at low speed. Despite a lot of research I can't find an explanation I can understand of what is required to maintain / change the torque. Is that something you could help with please? Thanks and keep up the great work.
Jim
in regards with the 4.7k on the snubber .. I believe that to be intentional. If that resistance is too low it would defeat the benefits gained from the rectifier which in it self provides some snubbing.
I think it can also prevent arcing when changing the speed under high load? Being too of a value small might cause the system to become unstable since the bridge rectifier is doing a lot of low end stability.
Nice video and explanation. The high voltage clearance around the triac legs looks a bit dodgy (small). Also, I'm not one for trusting the isolation clearances of a cheap carbon pot ( I know they say 750v, but I've seen the guts of pots like that fall to bits on more than one occasion).
Isnt it possible the resistor is in place to protect the capacitor cus the capacitor has to be very low value (100microF) to be able to handle the low power issue the entire product is build around ?
hi bigclive I need your help I have a big cooling fan and it has 3 speeds but it's just to fast and noise
is there any way to put a controller on it so reduce the speed of it
all I know is its a brushless motor that uses about 110 watts
I don't know anything about it tho
thanks for any advice
I am interested in converting 110v power supply down to 90volt to run a treadmill motor. I want to use it on a home built Metal Milling machine. Would this reduce the voltage, and also act as a speed control, or do I need a Reducing transformer plus a speed controller. I enjoyed the video but much of it is over my head. Thanks.
Hey would you run a angle grinder 2200 watt without soft start on it? Brushed motor so in theory it should, but what is your take. I seen 5000 Watt as well 10 000 watt devices on eBay.
5.02 - "ill be back in a moment" wow. that was a rarity.
Hi. There is an effective method without using layers as the rectifier tip passes a sawtooth signal, such as smoothing that signal to eliminate that network interference and canceling out that sound produced by that network interference.
Can you post a link where you got this? For some reason, I couldn't find one