Pole Barn Construction (Part 2: Pole Barn Framing) | Useful Knowledge
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Pole barn construction with two guys and a tractor. In this video we show the pole barn framing. This is part 2 of our pole barn building series.
During this pole barn building series we will show you the steps required to build a barn. The pole setting video will be part 1 of the series. The pole barn framing video is part 2. Some folks call these a pole garage but we call them barns. This barn will be left open for tractor implements and trailers.
The 2nd in the Useful Knowledge series about pole barn construction. In this episode, we will discuss pole barn framing with tips on cutting timbers, setting headers, and rafter framing.
For more information about pole barn/pole garage construction, email us at: useful.knowledge.tv@gmail.com
Thanks for watching!
Man with the Knowledge: Jamie Hardy
Editor: John Andrews (the UberonN)
Creator: Mark Davies
Bama Country Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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How to build a pole barn.
How to build a pole garage.
Easy pole barn construction.
Framing the barn.
Pole barn framing video.
I can’t thank you enough for this video. My brain has been itching to teach myself how to create a barn like this and this video helps so much..
Thanks!!
Nice job guys
Javier Sanchez. Thanks!
Great job and explanation
Squeek Hobby Thanks!
I loved the comment about using the laser level in the dark 'coz it's a cheapo Harbor Freight laser that doesn't work well in bright light!
😂🤣. Thanks! It’s true and I still use that laser level….at night.
I saw in a comment you're from North, AL. I am from North, AL also and am about to attempt this same pole barn design, following your yourtube videos. This has been super helpful. Debating on ordering trusses for the center, vs ridge pole and rafters.
Hi. The truss vs ridge pole is a great question. With trusses, you will need some help lifting them and setting them in place. Lots of the time folks will get a boom truck to lift them. Trusses will make it easier but will probably cost a little more. If you ever want to drive out and look at the barn just me know
Great video, love the info!
Thanks! We checked out your channel. Great stuff!!!
Great Looking pole barn so far!
Is there any reason you chose to notch your post on inside vs outside? Im considering nothing the inside bc of the lenght of my joist will fit better just wanting some insight
Hi. If I remember correctly, I was trying to get as much span as possible on the interior post to post. There was not any other structural reason for it. All the best with your barn build
GOOD VIDEO!!!!!
ezrabrooks12. Thanks!
Hello. Thank you for such a great video. When you were making your walk way to build your roof what is the span and spacing between them. What size wood did you use and did you notice any flexing or bowing when you were walking on it?
Hi. Thanks!! I used 2x6’s because I didn’t plan to store anything up there. My rafters and those 2x6 ceiling joist are at 3ft spacing. I don’t have any significant snow load so that spacing is fine for the south.
They do flex slightly when walking on them but not to the point that they feel like they would break. The barn that I built in 2004 has the same setup but it’s not as tall. If you plan to store anything, you might consider using 2x8’s but I haven’t had any issues.
great videos guys thanks a lot
Thanks!
How far apart did you set your joists? It appears to be less than 4' but more than 2' (approximately 3' o.c.?). If so, was there a particular reason for this spacing?
Hi. The rafters and joist at 3ft is just from past experience. 3ft works great when using the 2x4 “nailers”. Some folks in the south even go with a 4ft separation. If you have a snow load, I would do 2ft separation. Also, I answered you email last night. I’ll try to send them to you tomorrow.
After you set your doubled up 2x6 headers how did you attach your ceiling joists? just a toe nail? Did it become a second story floor or no?
Hi. I toenailed them in. I don’t really use it as a floor or storage. You could use a 2x8’’s or 2x10’s instead of the 2x6’s and then could make a floor up there.
@@useful.knowledge TY for your reply.
Great video. I like the traditional roof framing vs. manufactured trusses. How far is the rafter spacing?
Hi. Thanks! The spacing is 3ft on rafters. Then the nailers are 2x4’s.
I'm really considering doing a pole barn just like you've done here. What length 6x6 did you use and how much do you have above grade?
At 6:11, if you want to use the techie jargon, the runners are referred to as "purlins." (Not to be confused with "girts" which serve a similar function in the walls.)
On end they are purlins, on face they are referred to as girts, but also purlins for roof and girts for walls yes.
@6:14.. did you say "tubafours"?
Probably. It’s deep southern for 2x4. 🤣😂
@@useful.knowledge 🤣🤣🤣
So are you using all treated or untreated 2x6's and 2x4's for the framing in the roof? I have read that it is not necessary to use treated lumber if it's more that 18" from the ground and covered from the weather. So will the roof be sufficient to protect if from the weather, or should the lumber be treated?
02shooter20. Those are all untreated. They only treated wood I used was the 6x6's. I've been so busy with work that I'm still roofing it. :) I should be hopefully be finished in a couple of weeks.
Thanks for the reply. I'm glad to know I can use untreated wood when I build my pole barn shop (except for the posts). Your building looks great, thanks for posting the video.
Thanks! The smaller barn that can be seen in the video was built the same way about 13 years ago. I've had no issues. Good luck with your building.
02, Not only is untreated lumber not necessary in the roof, the chemicals used in treated lumber will cause rapid deterioration in the metal roof where it contacts. Treated lumber and metal roofing do not a happy combination make.
Where is the first video in this series?
Pole Barn Construction (Part 1: Setting Posts) | Useful Knowledge ruclips.net/video/JaPCwuFGvM0/видео.html
Hi. This should get you there.
@@useful.knowledge Thank you!
Is this 40x40 overall? Thanks
John Pugh. Hi. Yes, it’s a 40x40. The center is 16x40 and each side is a 12x40.
beast
How much did this cost u I like it want build one for my self
Brian Gist. Hi. The wood was approximately $3000 and the metal was approximately $2700. I think I answered someone that the metal was $2300 but I forgot to add in the trim metal. I probably have another $200-$300 in miscellaneous cost. I think in total overall $6000 would be close.
@@useful.knowledge Is that price of metal the roof only, or did you use metal siding as well?
What length do you cut your ridge poles? I'd love to have a material list. Great video
Hi. Send me an email to useful.knowledge.tv@gmail.com. I will send you what I put together for someone last year. The ridge poles are around 6ft tall. The ridge beam is (1) 16ft and (2) 12 ft 2x8’s.
@useful.knowledge how did you go about joining the ridge board together did you leave the poles up afterwards?
@samdaniel5703 Hi. I’ll look but I usually join them with a 2x6 cutoff and screws. Also when the metal goes on and screwed down, it secures everything together.
@@useful.knowledge just take and over lap 6 in kinda? On both sides to make ridge board longer?
Do you a material list ?
Not sure what your soil conditions are, type and acidity level and more importantly the type of in ground insect like wood borers you get if any, If you plan to have this last more than the life span (average 25 years before noticeable deterioration or earlier signs) of the wood placed in the ground from rotting away and it does happen more often than you think despite the treatment they are given which is toxic to some extent does not last very long in certain acid and bug infested soils. Not to mention no step 1 instruction on how to set the post or the fact you want to attach uplift protection simply jut hardened L channel secured by one bolt at least 6 inches up, and other forms of setting such as protective vinyl sock or sleeves such as the Post Shield that provide longer life yet still want to include some uplift protection. Then there is the more costly but the cost outweighs the others in terms of at least 50 years of durability in many soils is pre-cast permacolumn (Midwest Perma-Column and then there is Mortons similar but some differences of said column system) which still require uplift protection or pour in place 'piling' with a paper round form at top, the remaining below becomes a friction surface for uplift protection to a lesser extent than other 'anchor' systems.
See part 1 for my full suggestion guide comment.
who cuts the rafter tails after they hang the rafters. wth
TIm WISENER. Seriously? Every house, garage, barn that I have built or helped to build, we cut rafter tails.
Like everyone buddy
@@useful.knowledge mommy help what to do wit rafters tails A ? lol
Do you have plans for this barn?
I really don't have plans. I just knew how big I wanted the barn because of the camper and other things that I wanted up under the barn. Next, I just wanted something that looked good. I am fortunate to live in a rural area of north Alabama so I look at barns as I drive to work. Several years ago I saw a barn that I liked and built one. The barn in the video is just a larger version of my original barn. The pitch in the center is 9/12 and 4/12 on the sides.
UsefulKnowledge: Somewhere along this series I missed the dimensions of your barn. Would you mind providing the overall dimensions and the center and side section dimensions. Thanks. Tim
measurements of it i think i must missed that x48 L
overbuilt automotive. Hi. It’s a 40x40 ft. The center is 16x40 and each side is 12x40.
How tall is your barn? I'm thinking about building one just like it.......I'm thinking of doing mine 50× 50 but I'm trying to figure out how tall I want it to be....
i don't think putting the joints at the same place on top of the post makes a weak point. The weak point was using the 2 x 6 rather than 2 x 10 or 2 x12,
Ok. You can build one as you wish but I completely disagree with your statement. The joint it would definitely be a weak point. You would have everything pivoting on one 6x6 pole at the joint which is a bad idea. There is no weight on the roof so a 2x6 is plenty.