I lucked out with the gear lash on my 1970 Landlord. But, I did have a buggered keyway on the slip pully side. I would up doing a slide through of the same shaft :borrowed from the B10 graveyard. Thanks for the info.
Most of the time, the Starter Generator is fine and just needs a quick cleaning then you usually have to jump the field to the battery to degause the armature. Typically you're in business after that. There is a great tech publication on Simpletractors on how to troubleshoot the Starter Generators. It's by Al Eden and it is a very worthy read.
I had one a few years back. They are difficult to come by. Keep an eye on Simpletractors and Michaelstractors dott comm as well as eBay. It also wouldn't hurt to post a wanted add for the little Serf on craigslist. They're compact enough that many people lose them in their sheds, barns or garages until they see someone is looking for one. Best of luck and I hope my suggested places to look will yield you a first year (1968) Serf! Cheers!!
This a great video! It amazes me how different the transmission and rear axles were in your Simplicity tractors as compared to other tractors of the day. Cub cadet, Wheel horse, Simplicity, Gilson, John Deere, etc. were all engineered completely differently. Simplicities are very cool. I would definitely like to have one someday.
I've had all brands over the years and in my biased and most humble of opinions...nothing compares to both their simplicity (no pun intended), or their dependability. I hope you can locate one!! Cheers!! Zip~
I help people to locate a good parts source and point them in the direction of retailers who can get the parts. On occasion I'll sell a part if I have duplicates and the person has exhausted all other options.
Have leaky axle seals and concidering boring out trans case to allow needle bearings instead of existing bronze bearings and would like your opinion if this is practical. Your videos are very informative. Thanks.
I have a 1973 homelite t16s most of this stuff would even still apply to that. needs an engine rebuild but otherwise Is good it had a bad generator when I bought it I ended up buying one in a combined deal with a Massey 7 for 75$, and I paid 100 for the t16 originally and then the generator for about 60.
@Dman9195 Hey Dman.....Take the tank off the tractor, throw some nuts and bolts in it and shake it around to break up the rust, then clean it out real good with mineral spirits or a little gas. Then, if you want, you can get a gas tank lining kit. It's a chemical coating that protects the tank.
Some of the older Starter Generators have to be cross circuited to "degause" the armature before they will start charging. It all depends on the set up. You got lucky there my friend! A Good charging system is priceless!! Thanks for the comment!!
yeah i hate having to charge the battery every 4 starts it gets annoying but yeah just ran a pice of wire to the reg and got 24 volts at the gen at full throttle
Zippo I’ll tell ya what your videos on the 725’s are great, I have 4 but my two that run good leak gear oil like no tomorrow, I want to somehow change the seals for the axle but just don’t know if it’s worth it or if I can find the seals needed
They're a common seal and it's number 154269. Just do a simple search "Simplicity 154269" and you should get plenty of results. And as far as whether it's worth it or not is up to you. One thing to check when replacing is if the axle tube has a groove worn in it. If so, that would need welded up and ground down flush for new seals to be effective. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thank you so much for the reply! I have ordered the seals and expecting them in soon, I will keep you posted when I’m finished. Thanks again!
Hi Kevin! I use 75 or 80w90 Full Synthetic as it seems to help smooth everything out like shifting gears etc. I have maintenance videos that show the critical areas of these tractors to pay attention to when doing routine maintenance as well as many more repair videos on these tractors as well as their engines. Cheers! Zip~ p.s. If you haven't already, I'd appreciate your Subscription to the channel so you will be notified when new videos are released.
Would you prefer say....Jacked Up, Messed Up, just plain "Bad", Loosey Goosey, or you can name your own and I'll add an annotation. lol I'm up for suggestions, and yes, I laugh at my self and my way of saying things all the time, so I trust you at least wrinkled your face in some way when you heard my "over the top technical jargon" other wise heard as Wallered Out!! Cheers and thanks for the chuckle, laugh, giggle or what ever you understand best.
Very helpful vid. I'm starting to put my landlord back together and would like to know what kind or what weight and how much gear lube do i use for the bevel gear box? Thanks
Zip after finding this 3 part video I have a gut feeling I'm going to be rebuilding or trying to find a replacement Bevel Gear Box. :( Guess to snow plowing did the Big Ten in.....
I have 1967 that needs a new drive belt, I am wondering if someone through the years replaced it with a flat belt (that's whats on it now and is stretched out) instead of a V-Belt since the 2 pulleys apear to be V-belt pulleys. Also, do you know who I would contact to get the belt and other parts that I might need to replace in the future. The stretched out belt is about 55 1/2" so I am guessing that I need a 54" belt, just not sure if I should put another flat belt back on it. Thanks.
Have a question on my 74 landlord 3410. I need a replacement voltage regulator old number on the casing is 1119310F, is there a aftermarket replacement for this
@@ZippoVarga It's true. I was working on getting our 7013 running and needed a voltage regulator. I went to an old International KB2 and snagged one from there and got it going!
just to let you know i am know going to look at a bolens saturday and a john deere 826 snow blower they need fixing but i am sure i can do it thanks for giving me confidence in at least taking this step :]
when shimming a bevel gear box do both gears need to be shimmed together, or can just the driven gear be shimmed between the ball bearing and driven gear. the gears are good and so are the bearings and seals, just a lot of shuck between the gears. Dial indicator shows 0.063 inches sideways movement on the driven shaft. no movement at all on the input shaft.
Sorry for the slow reply! You're MUCH better off buying a new one at around $20.00 than to have anyone rebuild one for you. They can be found at tewarehouse dott comm and the part number you want is 09-1020. You can also buy a new replacement starter generator from the same web sight. Best of luck to you! Cheers!!
Hi Zippo. I have a question for you. I am currently rebuilding the bgb in my 725 and I can't for the life of me find the correct seal on the side with the shims. From what I understand it was discontinued many years ago. Any idea where I can get a suitable replacement? I haven't found a nos one and honestly, I think I would be a little nervous about a "new" seal that has been sitting around for 50 years. Any ideas?
Zippo, I have some info for you. This would be great for a video since a lot of people seem to really struggle with this. My local simplicity dealer gave me seal part #2168006SM which supercedes the original Victor seal #60254. As many know, the original seal acts as a spacer that holds the bearing in. They actually gave me the blueprint for the original seal and the wall is around .090" vs the current replacement seal that is only .031". I called Brenda and although she was very nice/helpful, I did not particularly agree with what I was told. She said they simply stack up 2 seals since they are only about .254" thick vs the original .440". As I mentioned the wall is literally 1/3 of the thickness so they can crush easily which has happened to some people already. Another thing is that if you actually hold the seal to the bearing, it DOES NOT butt up against a flat surface. But actually on the radius on the edge of the bearing. Whenever you shim anything, a flat surface should be against a flat surface. So I was a little frustrated since I didn't really find a good solution until tonight (on accident). I was pulling apart the wheel bearings on my 725 and happened to notice the size of the races. I grabbed my vernier caliper and did some measurements. It is a PERFECT spacer! It is Timken LM11910. It comfortably slips INTO the seal. Since it's a tapered race put the small end towards the bearing (it butts up against the flat part perfectly) and the big end towards the seal. That way the flat part of the seal is sandwiched between the spacer and the shims. So the seal won't get damaged. I really hope this all makes sense. This is kind of hard to explain. What's your email address? I can send you pictures if you want. So first bearing, race (with fat end towards seal), seal, shims, then bolt on the plate. The race is officially advertised as .475" for the thickness but mine measured .472" I don't think you are supposed to put on any preload either. I measured the original seal and shims and came up with a total stack height of .516", then I measured the depth from plate mounting surface on the bgb to the bearing and also came up with .516". So I believe the goal is to take up ALL of the slack with absolutely nothing more. Is this correct? Simplicity wasn't able to give me an answer.
You're ok to fill it to the top of the street fitting. In stock form, there was no elbow. You'll only be adding about another 4-5 ounces to get the oil to show in the filler neck. Zip~
Gears, shafts, bearings and seals...JUST the parts alone cost $275.00 and that's the dealers cost. This is why it is SO important to keep oil in the box.
I replied to your other comment asking this Truckman. Some are Motorcycle take off's, some are custom made by me with stainless pipe and others are purpose built and purchased from various places. But, mostly, they are custom made by me. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I'm having troubles getting my starter to work. I'm guessing it's my battery that's weak, I haven't checked the solenoid yet, but I want to get this thing fired up today
Zippo, I have a 72 Allis Chalmers 416H, can you give some advice on rebuilding a fuel pump for this, and the carburetor when you have time. thank you, John W.
J, thanks for stopping by. The best bet is to find a reputable Kohler repairman. You can buy a kit to rebuild both the pump and carb, but the Carburetors on the Kohlers often require machining out the butterfly shaft and pressing in a bushing. Mikuni makes a replacement carburetor for the Kohlers and they are good quality options. If you're comfortable doing both rebuilds, I suggest contacting on line parts vendors with your engine model numbers to obtain the parts and don't be surprised if there are spare parts in the kits. This is common because often the kits are for multiple units. Hope this helps! Cheers!! Zip~
irina pivtchev I'm curious why you would abandon the idea of taking a look? This tractor is a rare example of all that can be wore out. It is the only one out of literally Dozens I've serviced and owned that has as many issues. Typically, one or two issues may be found, and all issues individually are easily repaired. If you want a perfect machine, then looking at 50+ year old machines will prove to be a disappointment unless you understand that they have been in service all this time. This particular machine is STILL in service and has not broken down on the owner. A testament to how dependable they are, even when wore out like this one. Please let me know why you decided against taking a look. Regards, Zip~
ZippoVarga most likely because i dont have the tools or knowledge to fix it properly, i was just working on my lawn mower a 240 john deere from 96 i did the basic oil change and stuff unfortunately i am not the mechanic my brother was years ago and i helped him a lot on cars and farm machinery, now that he is passed away all tools and stuff he owned is gone, it would be difficult for me to actually do it all by myself--i kind of freaked out looking at all the issues it has from your vid, maybe i am not giving myself enough credit,if i can tinker on my lawn mower and get it going i suppose i can do that also--i dont know
With the videos posted at your finger tips, anything is possible. Even acquiring the needed tools can be done inexpensively through garage sales and Pawn Shop finds. I have videos on Pawn Shop etiquette that may prove helpful as well. I say, take what you've learned through my series here and check the machine out.
The gears and shafts are becoming increasingly harder to find and when you do, be prepared to shell out $100 per gear and $100 per shaft. Seals and bearings are even harder to source. Best bet....locate a good complete BGB that's compatible with your machine. Tons cheaper and with proper service and maintenance, it'll last decades. Cheers! Zip~
I picked up a Simplicity 5212.5 was out sitting outside long time . How can I get it to roll ? Move the shifter got be away take out of gear. You know how?
There are no shims needed for the small frame transmissions. The Bevel Gear Box shown in this video is only on the large framed Simplicity and Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors.
Thank you for the info. Now I know that I'll be sticking with Wheel Horses. The Wheel Horse is more like an old Chevy. The Simplicity is more like an old Ford. Chevies are simpler.
Ditto!! Sooo many more shared parts on Wheel Horses. Just an ocean of parts to get you up and rolling again within a day or so, but with Simplicity tractors be ready to mortgage the home on some hydro parts. "You'll search the world over and never found true hubs, you'll meet another but thppp they was gone! Horses are so much cheaper in every manor without a doubt. I have 4 Horses and only one AC, it took me less than 20 minutes owning one to learn when to stop buying them new/used..lol Can't find most their parts, highly ignorantly scam over priced even common parts for no reason at all. My AC hydro was $1676 for the kit they no longer have. Ridiculous, WH is less than $500. Horses are by far the easiest/cheapest to own of all small tractors with parts everywhere and super duper cheapo but rarely needed anyways. I really like the Simplicity/AC because at their very heart they are a simple Horse too, same old Kohler, same tough Hydro's but they special ordered all their surrounding parts just to create a cash cow for them that nobody even offered in less than ten yr old tractor, should say Specialty not Simplicity on their hoods. If they'd only sold a lot more like WH done just maybe then more parts would be around both new/old, just failed to sell enough may be issue idk? Now them over $1000 more gouging? Another story...
@Tyler2clark Hey Tyler! You have me stumped my friend! The newer models operate differently than my older machines. I have sent you a PM on where you can go to find the answer to your question. Sorry I couldn't help you directly!
I have one with motor no nothing about it, i have a extra motor that was running in ga or al anyone want them and i have two decks one good one not so big
where can I find a wiring diagram for one of the simplicity tiller tractors? mine caught on fire and i cannot figure out where one of the wires is supped to go.
I lucked out with the gear lash on my 1970 Landlord. But, I did have a buggered keyway on the slip pully side. I would up doing a slide through of the same shaft :borrowed from the B10 graveyard. Thanks for the info.
Awesome videos, I'm just getting into these older simplicity's. Trying to save at least one or two from the scrapyard.
They're definitely worthy of saving TTT! Zip~
Hey Matt!! Glad you like it!! Thanks for the 5*s man!
I know it's an old video but it's a good video good job Zippo
Most of the time, the Starter Generator is fine and just needs a quick cleaning then you usually have to jump the field to the battery to degause the armature. Typically you're in business after that. There is a great tech publication on Simpletractors on how to troubleshoot the Starter Generators. It's by Al Eden and it is a very worthy read.
I had one a few years back. They are difficult to come by. Keep an eye on Simpletractors and Michaelstractors dott comm as well as eBay. It also wouldn't hurt to post a wanted add for the little Serf on craigslist. They're compact enough that many people lose them in their sheds, barns or garages until they see someone is looking for one. Best of luck and I hope my suggested places to look will yield you a first year (1968) Serf! Cheers!!
This a great video! It amazes me how different the transmission and rear axles were in your Simplicity tractors as compared to other tractors of the day. Cub cadet, Wheel horse, Simplicity, Gilson, John Deere, etc. were all engineered completely differently. Simplicities are very cool. I would definitely like to have one someday.
I've had all brands over the years and in my biased and most humble of opinions...nothing compares to both their simplicity (no pun intended), or their dependability. I hope you can locate one!! Cheers!! Zip~
I help people to locate a good parts source and point them in the direction of retailers who can get the parts. On occasion I'll sell a part if I have duplicates and the person has exhausted all other options.
Have leaky axle seals and concidering boring out trans case to allow needle bearings instead of existing bronze bearings and would like your opinion if this is practical. Your videos are very informative. Thanks.
just one tip on my cub cadet i just had to run a new ground to the voltage regulator now it charges amazing
I have a 1973 homelite t16s most of this stuff would even still apply to that. needs an engine rebuild but otherwise Is good it had a bad generator when I bought it I ended up buying one in a combined deal with a Massey 7 for 75$, and I paid 100 for the t16 originally and then the generator for about 60.
Great video 🎉
Thank you 😁
@Dman9195 Hey Dman.....Take the tank off the tractor, throw some nuts and bolts in it and shake it around to break up the rust, then clean it out real good with mineral spirits or a little gas. Then, if you want, you can get a gas tank lining kit. It's a chemical coating that protects the tank.
Some of the older Starter Generators have to be cross circuited to "degause" the armature before they will start charging. It all depends on the set up. You got lucky there my friend! A Good charging system is priceless!! Thanks for the comment!!
yeah i hate having to charge the battery every 4 starts it gets annoying but yeah just ran a pice of wire to the reg and got 24 volts at the gen at full throttle
Zippo I’ll tell ya what your videos on the 725’s are great, I have 4 but my two that run good leak gear oil like no tomorrow, I want to somehow change the seals for the axle but just don’t know if it’s worth it or if I can find the seals needed
They're a common seal and it's number 154269. Just do a simple search "Simplicity 154269" and you should get plenty of results. And as far as whether it's worth it or not is up to you. One thing to check when replacing is if the axle tube has a groove worn in it. If so, that would need welded up and ground down flush for new seals to be effective. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thank you so much for the reply! I have ordered the seals and expecting them in soon, I will keep you posted when I’m finished. Thanks again!
A Zippo I have a 58 Wonderboy what type of gear oil would I use the crankcase and the bevel gearbox
Hi Kevin! I use 75 or 80w90 Full Synthetic as it seems to help smooth everything out like shifting gears etc. I have maintenance videos that show the critical areas of these tractors to pay attention to when doing routine maintenance as well as many more repair videos on these tractors as well as their engines. Cheers! Zip~ p.s. If you haven't already, I'd appreciate your Subscription to the channel so you will be notified when new videos are released.
I used to have an old landlord but it was kind of nightmare
Zippo! I destroyed my points, will you post a video of how to put them back together?
I have videos showing points installation Nick. Just search the channel. Zip~
Would you prefer say....Jacked Up, Messed Up, just plain "Bad", Loosey Goosey, or you can name your own and I'll add an annotation. lol I'm up for suggestions, and yes, I laugh at my self and my way of saying things all the time, so I trust you at least wrinkled your face in some way when you heard my "over the top technical jargon" other wise heard as Wallered Out!! Cheers and thanks for the chuckle, laugh, giggle or what ever you understand best.
Thanks for the info and great informational videos btw. Keep up the good work!
Very helpful vid. I'm starting to put my landlord back together and would like to know what kind or what weight and how much gear lube do i use for the bevel gear box? Thanks
Zip after finding this 3 part video I have a gut feeling I'm going to be rebuilding or trying to find a replacement Bevel Gear Box. :(
Guess to snow plowing did the Big Ten in.....
I have 1967 that needs a new drive belt, I am wondering if someone through the years replaced it with a flat belt (that's whats on it now and is stretched out) instead of a V-Belt since the 2 pulleys apear to be V-belt pulleys. Also, do you know who I would contact to get the belt and other parts that I might need to replace in the future. The stretched out belt is about 55 1/2" so I am guessing that I need a 54" belt, just not sure if I should put another flat belt back on it. Thanks.
Very informative! Great info. Thanks Zippo!
Have a question on my 74 landlord 3410. I need a replacement voltage regulator old number on the casing is 1119310F, is there a aftermarket replacement for this
Just search 12V voltage regulator and you'll get plenty of options Tully. Pretty much any will work. They're not picky. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga It's true. I was working on getting our 7013 running and needed a voltage regulator. I went to an old International KB2 and snagged one from there and got it going!
just to let you know i am know going to look at a bolens saturday and a john deere 826 snow blower they need fixing but i am sure i can do it thanks for giving me confidence in at least taking this step :]
when shimming a bevel gear box do both gears need to be shimmed together, or can just the driven gear be shimmed between the ball bearing and driven gear. the gears are good and so are the bearings and seals, just a lot of shuck between the gears. Dial indicator shows 0.063 inches sideways movement on the driven shaft. no movement at all on the input shaft.
just bought a 67 2012 landlord without a motor for $100, i noticed of how the previous owner robbed the hydrolift system from it for a different mower
Hi can you make a video on changing the oil seal’s on a 1961 AC B1 thanks.
Sorry for the slow reply! You're MUCH better off buying a new one at around $20.00 than to have anyone rebuild one for you. They can be found at tewarehouse dott comm and the part number you want is 09-1020. You can also buy a new replacement starter generator from the same web sight. Best of luck to you! Cheers!!
Hi Zippo. I have a question for you. I am currently rebuilding the bgb in my 725 and I can't for the life of me find the correct seal on the side with the shims. From what I understand it was discontinued many years ago. Any idea where I can get a suitable replacement? I haven't found a nos one and honestly, I think I would be a little nervous about a "new" seal that has been sitting around for 50 years. Any ideas?
Contact Brenda Knauss at sandylakeimp.com and tell her Zippo Sent You!
@@ZippoVarga Thank you. I'll give her a call this week. I love your videos by the way. They have been very helpful.
Zippo, I have some info for you. This would be great for a video since a lot of people seem to really struggle with this. My local simplicity dealer gave me seal part #2168006SM which supercedes the original Victor seal #60254. As many know, the original seal acts as a spacer that holds the bearing in. They actually gave me the blueprint for the original seal and the wall is around .090" vs the current replacement seal that is only .031". I called Brenda and although she was very nice/helpful, I did not particularly agree with what I was told. She said they simply stack up 2 seals since they are only about .254" thick vs the original .440". As I mentioned the wall is literally 1/3 of the thickness so they can crush easily which has happened to some people already. Another thing is that if you actually hold the seal to the bearing, it DOES NOT butt up against a flat surface. But actually on the radius on the edge of the bearing. Whenever you shim anything, a flat surface should be against a flat surface.
So I was a little frustrated since I didn't really find a good solution until tonight (on accident). I was pulling apart the wheel bearings on my 725 and happened to notice the size of the races. I grabbed my vernier caliper and did some measurements. It is a PERFECT spacer! It is Timken LM11910. It comfortably slips INTO the seal. Since it's a tapered race put the small end towards the bearing (it butts up against the flat part perfectly) and the big end towards the seal. That way the flat part of the seal is sandwiched between the spacer and the shims. So the seal won't get damaged. I really hope this all makes sense. This is kind of hard to explain. What's your email address? I can send you pictures if you want.
So first bearing, race (with fat end towards seal), seal, shims, then bolt on the plate. The race is officially advertised as .475" for the thickness but mine measured .472"
I don't think you are supposed to put on any preload either. I measured the original seal and shims and came up with a total stack height of .516", then I measured the depth from plate mounting surface on the bgb to the bearing and also came up with .516". So I believe the goal is to take up ALL of the slack with absolutely nothing more. Is this correct? Simplicity wasn't able to give me an answer.
Zippo my 62 725 I believe does not move. Haven't messed with it yet (in years) besides motor but I'm guessing it's THAT trans that's bad....
For the diff will the oil be at the 90 degree angle pipe becuse on mine the manual says 1.5 quarts and it doesn't reach the 90 degree angle pipe
You're ok to fill it to the top of the street fitting. In stock form, there was no elbow. You'll only be adding about another 4-5 ounces to get the oil to show in the filler neck. Zip~
How do you change the pto belt
Gears, shafts, bearings and seals...JUST the parts alone cost $275.00 and that's the dealers cost. This is why it is SO important to keep oil in the box.
Heya Blane, try simpletractors dott comm classifieds and eBay. They don't come cheap, but they're out there. Best of luck to you! Cheers!! Zip
Where did you get that exhaust stack?
I replied to your other comment asking this Truckman. Some are Motorcycle take off's, some are custom made by me with stainless pipe and others are purpose built and purchased from various places. But, mostly, they are custom made by me. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I'm sorry sir, I didn't realize that you did. I appreciate the help, you sure know what you're doing. Love the channel 👍
I'm glad you're enjoying it! I've also got a video showing how to properly install and brace a stack muffler to your engine. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I'm having troubles getting my starter to work. I'm guessing it's my battery that's weak, I haven't checked the solenoid yet, but I want to get this thing fired up today
Right on 350! It's what I love doing!
ever come across any simplicity 535 SERF tractors? been looking for one for ages
Zippo, I have a 72 Allis Chalmers 416H, can you give some advice on rebuilding a fuel pump for this, and the carburetor when you have time. thank you, John W.
J, thanks for stopping by. The best bet is to find a reputable Kohler repairman. You can buy a kit to rebuild both the pump and carb, but the Carburetors on the Kohlers often require machining out the butterfly shaft and pressing in a bushing. Mikuni makes a replacement carburetor for the Kohlers and they are good quality options. If you're comfortable doing both rebuilds, I suggest contacting on line parts vendors with your engine model numbers to obtain the parts and don't be surprised if there are spare parts in the kits. This is common because often the kits are for multiple units. Hope this helps! Cheers!! Zip~
thanks for the info i was planning on looking at one this weekend now i dont think i will
irina pivtchev I'm curious why you would abandon the idea of taking a look? This tractor is a rare example of all that can be wore out. It is the only one out of literally Dozens I've serviced and owned that has as many issues. Typically, one or two issues may be found, and all issues individually are easily repaired. If you want a perfect machine, then looking at 50+ year old machines will prove to be a disappointment unless you understand that they have been in service all this time. This particular machine is STILL in service and has not broken down on the owner. A testament to how dependable they are, even when wore out like this one. Please let me know why you decided against taking a look. Regards, Zip~
ZippoVarga most likely because i dont have the tools or knowledge to fix it properly, i was just working on my lawn mower a 240 john deere from 96 i did the basic oil change and stuff unfortunately i am not the mechanic my brother was years ago and i helped him a lot on cars and farm machinery, now that he is passed away all tools and stuff he owned is gone, it would be difficult for me to actually do it all by myself--i kind of freaked out looking at all the issues it has from your vid, maybe i am not giving myself enough credit,if i can tinker on my lawn mower and get it going i suppose i can do that also--i dont know
With the videos posted at your finger tips, anything is possible. Even acquiring the needed tools can be done inexpensively through garage sales and Pawn Shop finds. I have videos on Pawn Shop etiquette that may prove helpful as well. I say, take what you've learned through my series here and check the machine out.
ZippoVarga really i didnt know about pawn shops i never been in one where are your vids for pawn shop etiquette?
Just search my videos on my channel and they should pop up.
Zippo interested where u get the parts to rebuild the bgb
The gears and shafts are becoming increasingly harder to find and when you do, be prepared to shell out $100 per gear and $100 per shaft. Seals and bearings are even harder to source. Best bet....locate a good complete BGB that's compatible with your machine. Tons cheaper and with proper service and maintenance, it'll last decades. Cheers! Zip~
Hi guys , I have Allis Chalmers B 10 It have bad Bevel Gear Box and I am looking for place to buy rebuilt kit bearings and seals . Thanks
I picked up a Simplicity 5212.5 was out sitting outside long time . How can I get it to roll ? Move the shifter got be away take out of gear. You know how?
Neutral is second stop from the left as you're sitting on the mower. All the way left is Reverse, then Neutral, then your forward gears. Zip~
Stay tuned for 2 and 3...I got #2 loaded otnight and I'll get #3 loaded tomorrow. Thanks for the comment!!!
zippo i just bought a allis lawn trailer is it worth anything??
Where would you get shims for the 728 broadmoor transmission - found complete rebuildkit gearwise but no shims came with it
There are no shims needed for the small frame transmissions. The Bevel Gear Box shown in this video is only on the large framed Simplicity and Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors.
ZippoVarga mine has a little slop side to side so ended up making the shims on the lathe now its got 6/1000 slop give or take
how much is it usually to rebuild one of these bevel gear boxes?
Thank you for the info. Now I know that I'll be sticking with Wheel Horses. The Wheel Horse is more like an old Chevy. The Simplicity is more like an old Ford. Chevies are simpler.
Ditto!!
Sooo many more shared parts on Wheel Horses. Just an ocean of parts to get you up and rolling again within a day or so, but with Simplicity tractors be ready to mortgage the home on some hydro parts.
"You'll search the world over and never found true hubs, you'll meet another but thppp they was gone!
Horses are so much cheaper in every manor without a doubt. I have 4 Horses and only one AC, it took me less than 20 minutes owning one to learn when to stop buying them new/used..lol Can't find most their parts, highly ignorantly scam over priced even common parts for no reason at all. My AC hydro was $1676 for the kit they no longer have. Ridiculous, WH is less than $500.
Horses are by far the easiest/cheapest to own of all small tractors with parts everywhere and super duper cheapo but rarely needed anyways. I really like the Simplicity/AC because at their very heart they are a simple Horse too, same old Kohler, same tough Hydro's but they special ordered all their surrounding parts just to create a cash cow for them that nobody even offered in less than ten yr old tractor, should say Specialty not Simplicity on their hoods. If they'd only sold a lot more like WH done just maybe then more parts would be around both new/old, just failed to sell enough may be issue idk? Now them over $1000 more gouging? Another story...
@drazz09 Hey Drake! Sounds like you have a great collection going there. They are all great machines aren"t they? Keep collecting them buddy!!
Oh and do you sell any Simplicity/AC tractor parts?
No stickers can't seam to find out what modal my simplicity landlord is. Want to restore it
How much did I cost you to rebuild the regulator yourself?
Thanks for sharing the info!
I payed 75 bucks for that same tractor it doesn't run because it has no spark but other than that it's in pretty good shape
Good buy! I've got a number of videos on points and spark. Let us know when you get it up and running! Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thanks I'll check em out
Awesome video, this is great stuff.
5*****
I have a simplicity 637 yeoman does anyone know what year its from!?!?!?!????
1968-69
Is this the same as a hydro-static one? anyways thanks for the tips!
Is what the same Sniper?
Even if the stuff is bad, is 25 dollars a great price
If you have a plan for it, $25 is fine. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga images.craigslist.org/01717_7Lo1IWRW0oK_600x450.jpg images.craigslist.org/00a0a_aY2a9GEpEd_600x450.jpg images.craigslist.org/00a0a_aX3Y0YWCeoc_600x450.jpg
@Tyler2clark Hey Tyler! You have me stumped my friend! The newer models operate differently than my older machines. I have sent you a PM on where you can go to find the answer to your question. Sorry I couldn't help you directly!
Sandylakeimplement dott comm. Talk to Brenda. She can hook you up with everything you need and be sure to tell her Zippo sent you!!
I have one with motor no nothing about it, i have a extra motor that was running in ga or al anyone want them and i have two decks one good one not so big
sweet
cool
where can I find a wiring diagram for one of the simplicity tiller tractors? mine caught on fire and i cannot figure out where one of the wires is supped to go.
Google is your best friend for any thing you need. Enter your model and then wiring diagram. Zip~
Hi, i want ask you how meny chan it costen whis tractor?
"WALLERED OUT" ????
Sending you a message thorugh youtube.
opps its a b112 allischalmers