Yes Torx Screws are best for this sort of work especially if you're using stainless steel screws, they lock in the driver bit better and don't jump out when you need more torque. The down side is you could be spinning like a top if you don't come off the power quick enough😀😀
@@SustainableSailing my source of all fasteners for the build is Westfield Fasteners. They have it all, as many or as few as you need and practically all also available in A4 SS
when a house deck swells and contracts with rain, the gaps between the board get tigher to the point of bowing and contact to the point of shearing screws. Their is probably area on the deck that need to be a bit open to let the water flow through.
A little top tip from an old hand, point your index finger down the length of the blade, resting against the handle, it will give you far more control of the blade and resulting cut.
Only took me 40 years (only ever done rough work like fences etc) to discover that, also sharp tools, now every winter I take my planes,chisels and sharpen them.
Have you considered the downside of your close fitting deck planks? The original design philosophy of Wharram was for a craft that allowed blue water to easily wash through the deck slats. A major feature of the ethos is light weight, both in construction and shedding water that comes aboard. If you should end up heading offshore you will appreciate the benefits of minimising weight.
Thanks for the video. In the US, really old screws are flat heads, then phillips heads became popular, and nor the star heads are everywhere, and flat heads are rare and only used for matching antique hardware. I'd paint it with sand in the paint for non skid. For teak decks they use a wood cleaner chemical and then rinse it dry it sand it and then oil it.
Hi Mark, great work. Here’s a few suggestions. I’ve been involved with building a few Polynesian canoes. I would definitely remove the wood over those lashings. It’s important to be able to keep an eye on all the lashings and to see all of it to check for issues and to be able to easily replace or tighten one if there’s suddenly an issue at sea. Secondly I wouldn’t pressure wash the deck it just removes wood grain which hastens decay. I’d either paint them off white and add non-slip where you need it or just let them grey off together and once every week or two brush scrub them lightly with salt water always again across the grain so you don’t pull out wood grain. I think there should be a small gap between the boards for drainage and to stop rot but you can always do that with a saw later. It would be quick and effective. Cheers and good luck.
The deck is superb. Ignore the critique on the aestetics, focus on prioritizing to make sure your time is best used for making her seaworthy, getting her out sail and test. Top work, well done
Exactly, I have had to do some extensive joinery aboard my boat to get her ready for sea. I had intended to use a hefty piece of oak for one job to match the oak compression post already in situ and Mahogany ply to match her interior. Time and money led me down the softwood post and hardwood ply with Oak and Mahogany woodstain. Job looks good and saved me a fortune. It may only last a few years but by then I hope I will have recovered from the fortune Im spending on that other job, and bought three of them and repaired that instrument, and replaced those hoses and changed those blocks and and and. Getting her in the water where she can be a boat instead of a money pit is what it's all about and a little discolouration on your deck planks is small beer. My sister once bought a car and complained that they had one in blue but she would have to wait 13 weeks for the white one she wanted. I replied, you cant see its blue from the inside, why worry.
Despite the occasional misstep, I think your efficiency as a woodworker has improved! Also, good work on sharpening the plane. I agree that paint with some non-skid thrown in would be good for the decks -- better protection than just oil.
in the caribbean we used to use washed sand, dust over wet paint, and roll over to distribute evenly, after dried, topcoat.......ive done on many dive boats, including here in florida.....when in the land of limes, must find a way to make lime-aide....no lemons in roatan honduras, maybe there are now.....
Douglas fir does need to be sealed. A two second sand will bring back the colour. But really, for maintenance, paint it....and add in crushed walnuts to tear your knees off. Its beautiful varnished. But after the second year I painted my mast.
Mark, I would be sure completely to seal that Douglas fir. Also, you may want to add some reinforcement to the torx screws. I’m not sure they are strong enough to adsorb an ocean wave. Some through bolts with washers or backing plates would add to the deck strength. Have you considered epoxy and glass? Weather resistant and very strong.
hi Mate, great viewing for sitting in bed with a coffee, please don`t bother sanding the deck it will only turn grey again, it`s called weathering, in a couple of months it will all look the same. that boat is lucky to have you, 😀 Ady n Mel from Manchester
I would add a flush bolt or carriage bolt through several of the intersections of planks and stiffeners with a big washer under the nut at the bottom. It will prevent separation of the stiffener if the screws fail . Top stuff!
Maybe you can rent a sander that is used by wood flooring guys? They sand wooden floors all the time. In Dutch it is caled 'parket' schuurmachine and you might be able to rent it from a tool rental company called Boels.
A Teak renovator will clean up the greyness. Then use teak seal to coat the deck. This provides a thin water repellent surface, but it still looks like unvarnished wood and will preserve the colour. Needs applying every year.
Good onya mate🤙Re Decking: i would rent a proper floor sander and grade it down 3mm, then drill for bolts, remove screws, then epoxy it all and your bolt holes before assembly. Use stainless steel bolts only. Screws at sea will rott your wood swiftly. A good advice would be not to construct anything"temporary," which isn't a good option for any ocean-going vessel.
Makes a lot of difference, BIG step forward and SO much safer to walk on. You should be well proud with your recent progress. A lot of things dont look so spectacular but take twice as long though. Well done.
Hello Mark, another nice video. 1 thing regarding the douglas planks. The planks will probably shrink an cm in width this summer. The screws on the bottom will probably break off. I have experienced it myself. The forces that working wood can generate never cease to amaze me, And yes.. those Torx screws rules.. I love them!
Yes, Mark, I slowly switched to use TORX screws on our build after i spent days removing Philips head screws which where screwed in temporarily to help epoxying in hull sides and did not want to come out... TORX has a big advantage over Philips - it is pretty much impossible to damage the head so badly that you cannot unscrew it. With Philips head is a common thing - one hull side had some of 150-200 screws holding it during epoxying and then I had 15-20 of them to extract :( (good thing I'm using A4 screws as a rule - I could leave parts of them in ..,)
I have screwed for a project over 5000 Torx wood screws. All with one bit and none of them failed and the Torx bit that came with these screws is still like new. I will never will buy other screws again if Torx available for the job. Had recently to unscrew a few I mounted 15years ago on a building roof, it was a charm how easy it was to get them off.
All of those deck modules need to be secured with a coiled and tied with wool in a bundle under the deck lanyard, so they can be recovered after they get washed overboard. My decking was bolted down and spaced for drainage--yes, one does loose stuff in between the planks, but they drain better, and one can always put netting under them if one is working over them. I have no idea what the seas are like in your neck of the wood, but my craft was over twenty feet wide, and it reached only one quarter of the height of some of the waves I encountered abeam with a lee shore. Sometimes you only get ONE chance--better maximise it.
I have watched and enjoyed this journey from the beginning. Being from Newfoundland and having a close tie to the ocean I deeply respect all the work you have put into this.
Love seeing your progress even if it seems slow at times. It'll all be worth it for a lifestyle that so many of us will only be able to dream of. :) Once you can get her underway to somewhere more convenient and sea-worthy, it should seem like less of a grind as well.
Hey Mark Good looking work this past week. Happy to see you going hard at it. Im gonna throw out a suggestion for your deck. If you take some wood filler putty and spread in the gaps and then sand it nicely. Then , what I would do is buy a very HEAVY Fiberglass Cloth and lay it with a Moderate Epoxy Resin. Then after that you can paint it with a paint and Silica anti-slip mixed it. Then that deck would look and feel very professional and last YEARS. The Epoxy will need to appropriate hardness so it doesn't spider crack with the flexing of the wood. I would guess that would cost about £350-400 total and about 30 Hours labour to do nicely. But Boy o Boy it would look nice thereafter for Years to come. Option 2 - Just fill the gaps and use a couple gallons of Thompsons Water Seal and do several coats to last 4/5 years ,,,, With you Deck getting completed, after you finish your wood , start with your deck hardware. Another forethought is to have some 1" Stainless Tube and wherever you need a Deck-Thru hole drill the hole with a 1-1/8" holesaw and then cut the Stainless Tube and Insert and Glue into the Holes. DONT Skimp on the Deck Mark , You can keep that wood you've laid already by coating or covering or doing the Fiberglass Covering .... Cheers Buddy. Keep Going Hard !!! Chris & Stella. SV Jaz SV Hydra
I am into house/cabin building now and I am beginning to think of the advantages of Warram's rope lashing. It allows you freedom to change things since you never drill a bolt hole. I think will use it on building the floors of my houses in Portugal and the Philippines.
Remember that paint hides a multude of sins, be more concerned with the stability of the deck both to support your foot traffic and to remain in place in heavy seas, my concern would be the underpinnings more than the aesthetics, line lashings and stainless steal screws are a sailors best friend. good show, on to the next task. thanks for taking us with you.
Yeah, the torx head screws are available all over the EU, I always get them when I can. Making good progress Mark! Even though you might feel that it's progressing slower than expected, you are moving in the forward direction... Soon you'll be focusing on the mast and rigging. Let me know if you need a source for netting. I came a cross knotless dynema net supplier in Italy, I think, when I was searching for it online.
Yeah the saw is designed to guarantee the proper result. Your life depends on the planks being the exact dimensions. You’re really doing some great building and engineering . Can’t wait to see her sail
I always take the tension off the belt on the belt sander after you finish for the day. Keeping the belt tensioned will stretch it larger and make it impossible to keep the rollers in contact with belt.
In canada we use the Robertson, it is a square shape. it doesnt strip, holds itself onto the bit, and can drive a screw all the way through a piece of wood if you dont take care.
Robertson has no business in a boat. I get downright mad when I work on boats and someone has mixed in Robertson screws with the Phillips/Flat Standard that are SUPPOSED to be there. Boat builders always use Phillips and Flat for a hundred years. If you wanna see your repair bill go UP by most of us marine mechanics, mix in some roberts , we despise them.
I only ever use Robertson, so dont ever buy a used boat/camper/house/trailer from me!@@NomadSurvivor I also do 100% of my own work. Except for household plumbing, I kinda suck at plumbing.
Screws are posi drive heads mark should be a bit with them great job Douglas fir is used a lot up here in Scotland for roofing (darling boards) you can get them tanilized 10 year lifetime guarantee
The deck definitely doesn't look fancy but it sounds like you've got the right idea to get out sailing sooner and worry about making it pretty later. Still can't believe you've brought this boat back from the dead. Great work, Mark 🙂
the special screw heads you describe could be the ones we call torks heads ... you could also keep an eye out for a joiner plane to get rid of all the bumpy edges
Torx is the best. I built a deck last year and switched to torx halfway through, what a difference! Then a handsaw is good for cutting the tree against the grain, but not along it. Greetings from Sweden!
Mark the deck looks awesome just power wash the old wood will clean it fine project coming out great waiting for next week thank you for sharing John and Marie
Love your channel! You could apply ‘shou sugi ban’ to treat the planks. First you burn the outside golden brown with a gas torch, the you treat them with cooked linseed oil, which dries up nicely. If you put on two coats they won’t get waterligged and for maintenance you can always put on more. And best of all this is really easy and fast + it looks amazing! ( did this myself) Keep up the good work!
Mark once you are finished and its all sanded to one colour and then top coated with some sort of preservative its going to look exceptional mon ami! 😊
You can remove the gray/brown look from wood and make it look new again with bleach mixed with dish soap. I’ve used this for fences and decks doing residential cleaning. Let it soak for 10-20 minutes or more and scrub with a brush if needed
As a deck its great at least you can get about the boat without falling in I agree with a lot of your followers some wood sealant is advisable but i think it looks great especially from your drone well done Mark 😊😊😊
I text you on the las video about the deck. Just use some darkness oil (Noglina). In spanish is Barniz. And you will get similar colour in all the deck + protection. And if is darkness, you wont realize that much about dirty or mistakes. I love it. And in the same line I would paint the rest of the boat on white. Is gonna make you feel in a diferent boat and big progresion with just some paint. Good Job¡ Can not wait for next week
Just brilliant Mark....your graft and perseverance makes for great viewing ...just a pity these build videos aren't an hour long....could watch em all night! 🤟😎
That decking (28 or 32mm) needs a frame of 50*100 (vertical) every 400-600mm (with 6*100mm screws). Your deckhand with sail on his hands with small jump will go through that. It is easily force more than 200 kg on one 50*200mm spot.
Hi Mark, I just want to give you a big thanks for your story. I started watching when you and Nadiana had 3.7k subs. Some great experiences for you along the way and as a viewer, some great insights into life on the water. I intend to motorboat around Ireland over the next year as I'm too old and broken for sailing. Take care out there and I'm looking forward to the start of your sea trials. Regards, Steve W.
Oh wow! Thanks so so much. It’s been a heck of a trip from then till now. I can see the appeal of motor boating after being on Mum and Dads boat. As long as your out on the water, that’s the main thing!! Thanks again mate, that’s so nice of you
A friend of mine back in the early 90's used epoxy with little rubber beads in it and sanded it back down so the beads were through the epoxy and it worked great he used white epoxy the same color as the rest of his cat but with the cl÷ar epoxy nowadays you can leave the natural wood color if you can find little rubber beads you could use
There are two types of + heads for that type of fixing. The "Philips" is of course specifically branded but the angles of the screw and the Screw driver are specific and the screw locks onto the screw driver when used in the horizontal plane this is part of the specific patient. The knock-off is called a "posi-drive" the screw does not lock onto the screw driver but it still has the + shape but if you look at the screw head there is a - that forms a second + so you can see the difference between a Philips and pozi-drive screw when you buy them. I have heard them referred to as star, cross, and a few other names. For the Deck I suggest fiberglass coating, it will waterproof the wood, strengthen the wood and with 2 layers will not add too much weight while giving you a nic solid deck. If you want to keep it natural, marine varnish is the best I would not suggest a penetrating oil as this would still leave the wood exposed to the salty moisture you need to seal the wood.
You could rent a propper flooring planar/sander? That makes quick work of this relative small and surface. With propper treatment the deck will look very nice. No need for changing that out.
I would prime and paint that timber with garage floor paint. Its robust and good enough to get that deck a uniform colour. Last coat just toss on some washed builders sand for none skid. You cant polish a turd.
Another thought...is swelling of the boards in tropical heat. And galvanized anything will just turn to rust. I'm not trying to be mean at all. But now the details will save you loads in the future. SS screws are not that expensive here in Canada or the UK, not when its not for a fence, but for your home.
In the middle of a Pacific voyage one of my patrons brought me to England where I worked as a fencer for 7 months. You know when you pass by a fence in bad repair, it always has stains around where the nails or screws held it on to your post. The water creeps in, reacts to the metal and sap, creating a gas which expands the metal therefore making the wood fibre break down letting more moisture in and eventually the bugs that are called rot. That's your deck in a year. If you had a tube of sika, you could go around and unscrew all those screws one by one and dip them in sika spout...and put them back in.
The deck is fine for a temporary solution, it doesn't have to look great just has to work, I'm just wondering how long till the screws rust and you get loose boards. Also make sure the boards are attached to the beams somehow (lashed or screwed) as when you gut a strong gust or big wave between the hulls hitting the underside of those deck boards they will lift and you don't want to loose a section and have a big hole in your deck while at sea. If I remember correctly the Wharram plans called for the deck boards to be lashed to the beams?
Hi Mark, I'd paint it all with primer and epoxy, at least the bottom, the rest can evaporate upwards. The other solution could be to oil it. A note. If stainless steel screws and bolts are cheaper in the Netherlands, I'd buy a batch for future works, so you get to replace it with better wood, but still got cheaper fixings. I'm doing up my boat in Cornwall at the mo, so take great inspiration from your videos. It's an infinite job if you do it well, but sometimes you need to find a compromise. Come up here first before you leave for your world tour, back to your boat's origin and as a lucky charm start. Cheers
Bugger me,week on the road truck driver,night in the pub,and fu*k me there you are.your smashing this amazing footage ,amazing that your so focused.keep going you make my week ending feel amazingly complete.plum from Essex 🎉
Chuck a coat of paint on the decks and it will all be uniform. To stiffen the decks up more, try screwing some 2x4 to the underside with the 2 inch side against the deck...more of a truss.
torx screws 😊 you are an inspiration bud. Keep up the hard work and stick to your goals ...
Yes Torx Screws are best for this sort of work especially if you're using stainless steel screws, they lock in the driver bit better and don't jump out when you need more torque. The down side is you could be spinning like a top if you don't come off the power quick enough😀😀
Torx. Screwfix stock quite a good range of Spax A2 stainless screws in the UK.
Be nice if torx could become the standard. Ol Phillip still lurks everywhere.
Phillips allows for self cantering (sp?) in automated assembly. Those of us not robots suffer.
@@SustainableSailing my source of all fasteners for the build is Westfield Fasteners. They have it all, as many or as few as you need and practically all also available in A4 SS
Mark, from the old days of sailing ships, wash your deck with salt water. Fresh water = rot. Salt water keeps them ship shape and Bristol fashion
That side shot of the plank moving 0:45 really gives you a good idea just how huge this cat is
Rent or borrow a floorboard sander, which will make it much nicer to walk on bear foot. then treat the wood paying attention on the end grain.
Yup, a floorboard sander should be about £100 for a day, and you'll easily do that much in a day.
A bear foot is called a paw 😉
when a house deck swells and contracts with rain, the gaps between the board get tigher to the point of bowing and contact to the point of shearing screws. Their is probably area on the deck that need to be a bit open to let the water flow through.
A little top tip from an old hand, point your index finger down the length of the blade, resting against the handle, it will give you far more control of the blade and resulting cut.
Only took me 40 years (only ever done rough work like fences etc) to discover that, also sharp tools, now every winter I take my planes,chisels and sharpen them.
@@scudosmyth784 Every Winter? I sharpen mine for every job!!
@@jonathansimmonds5784 I dont use them a lot, shed too small so have to work outdoors so mainly used in Summer.
How do you get 29 likes when i have posted this advice 3 times prior . To no likes, sob.
Have you considered the downside of your close fitting deck planks? The original design philosophy of Wharram was for a craft that allowed blue water to easily wash through the deck slats. A major feature of the ethos is light weight, both in construction and shedding water that comes aboard. If you should end up heading offshore you will appreciate the benefits of minimising weight.
Thanks for the video. In the US, really old screws are flat heads, then phillips heads became popular, and nor the star heads are everywhere, and flat heads are rare and only used for matching antique hardware. I'd paint it with sand in the paint for non skid. For teak decks they use a wood cleaner chemical and then rinse it dry it sand it and then oil it.
Your wood working skills are getting better in an amazing pace .
Hi Mark, great work. Here’s a few suggestions. I’ve been involved with building a few Polynesian canoes. I would definitely remove the wood over those lashings. It’s important to be able to keep an eye on all the lashings and to see all of it to check for issues and to be able to easily replace or tighten one if there’s suddenly an issue at sea. Secondly I wouldn’t pressure wash the deck it just removes wood grain which hastens decay. I’d either paint them off white and add non-slip where you need it or just let them grey off together and once every week or two brush scrub them lightly with salt water always again across the grain so you don’t pull out wood grain. I think there should be a small gap between the boards for drainage and to stop rot but you can always do that with a saw later. It would be quick and effective. Cheers and good luck.
Great advice 👏🤗⛵️🤗👏
Exactly, soon rot under that wood. Air flow is key. Nice work whittling the wood though Mark.
Think the screw points may have parted the sand paper belt.
Don't you need some gaps between the boards for water to drain easily?
The deck is superb. Ignore the critique on the aestetics, focus on prioritizing to make sure your time is best used for making her seaworthy, getting her out sail and test. Top work, well done
I'll second that!
Exactly this. Pretty costs money and time. Safe and functional needs to be the target.
I would let them all weather.
Absolutely, don't end up doing painstaking work just to please others! Git'r done!
Exactly, I have had to do some extensive joinery aboard my boat to get her ready for sea. I had intended to use a hefty piece of oak for one job to match the oak compression post already in situ and Mahogany ply to match her interior. Time and money led me down the softwood post and hardwood ply with Oak and Mahogany woodstain. Job looks good and saved me a fortune. It may only last a few years but by then I hope I will have recovered from the fortune Im spending on that other job, and bought three of them and repaired that instrument, and replaced those hoses and changed those blocks and and and. Getting her in the water where she can be a boat instead of a money pit is what it's all about and a little discolouration on your deck planks is small beer. My sister once bought a car and complained that they had one in blue but she would have to wait 13 weeks for the white one she wanted. I replied, you cant see its blue from the inside, why worry.
I think this is the best show yet .Great work and progress such guts for working through tough weather, well done.
Despite the occasional misstep, I think your efficiency as a woodworker has improved! Also, good work on sharpening the plane. I agree that paint with some non-skid thrown in would be good for the decks -- better protection than just oil.
They make a rip handsaw. Much better for ripping wood.
In Canada the (star) screw is called a "torx" screw tho in the Netherlands it is probably different.
in the caribbean we used to use washed sand, dust over wet paint, and roll over to distribute evenly, after dried, topcoat.......ive done on many dive boats, including here in florida.....when in the land of limes, must find a way to make lime-aide....no lemons in roatan honduras, maybe there are now.....
ive actually done my longboard skateboards same way, they aint pretty, eat your shoes up a bit, but tried n true.
we call it a Torx (or star for the uninitiated) also. Robertson (square) is the Canadian, arguably better, alternative. @@ayrwynharrison898
Yeah, torx screws are the best 👍😀
Douglas fir does need to be sealed. A two second sand will bring back the colour. But really, for maintenance, paint it....and add in crushed walnuts to tear your knees off. Its beautiful varnished. But after the second year I painted my mast.
Mark, I would be sure completely to seal that Douglas fir. Also, you may want to add some reinforcement to the torx screws. I’m not sure they are strong enough to adsorb an ocean wave. Some through bolts with washers or backing plates would add to the deck strength. Have you considered epoxy and glass? Weather resistant and very strong.
hi Mate, great viewing for sitting in bed with a coffee, please don`t bother sanding the deck it will only turn grey again, it`s called weathering, in a couple of months it will all look the same. that boat is lucky to have you, 😀 Ady n Mel from Manchester
I agree 👍
+2
@@gerbenrink 🤗⛵️🤗
I would add a flush bolt or carriage bolt through several of the intersections of planks and stiffeners with a big washer under the nut at the bottom. It will prevent separation of the stiffener if the screws fail . Top stuff!
Paint w/ sand added. The wood is good for the final solution!
I second paint!
Yup good oil type paint , you can buy special plastic beads to add to paint for grip , expensive but works and does not tear up your feet!
Maybe you can rent a sander that is used by wood flooring guys? They sand wooden floors all the time.
In Dutch it is caled 'parket' schuurmachine and you might be able to rent it from a tool rental company called Boels.
A Teak renovator will clean up the greyness. Then use teak seal to coat the deck. This provides a thin water repellent surface, but it still looks like unvarnished wood and will preserve the colour. Needs applying every year.
Good onya mate🤙Re Decking: i would rent a proper floor sander and grade it down 3mm, then drill for bolts, remove screws, then epoxy it all and your bolt holes before assembly. Use stainless steel bolts only. Screws at sea will rott your wood swiftly.
A good advice would be not to construct anything"temporary," which isn't a good option for any ocean-going vessel.
Makes a lot of difference, BIG step forward and SO much safer to walk on. You should be well proud with your recent progress. A lot of things dont look so spectacular but take twice as long though. Well done.
Hello Mark, another nice video. 1 thing regarding the douglas planks. The planks will probably shrink an cm in width this summer. The screws on the bottom will probably break off. I have experienced it myself. The forces that working wood can generate never cease to amaze me, And yes.. those Torx screws rules.. I love them!
Yes, Mark, I slowly switched to use TORX screws on our build after i spent days removing Philips head screws which where screwed in temporarily to help epoxying in hull sides and did not want to come out... TORX has a big advantage over Philips - it is pretty much impossible to damage the head so badly that you cannot unscrew it. With Philips head is a common thing - one hull side had some of 150-200 screws holding it during epoxying and then I had 15-20 of them to extract :( (good thing I'm using A4 screws as a rule - I could leave parts of them in ..,)
Now I realise why they are called Torx.
I have screwed for a project over 5000 Torx wood screws. All with one bit and none of them failed and the Torx bit that came with these screws is still like new. I will never will buy other screws again if Torx available for the job. Had recently to unscrew a few I mounted 15years ago on a building roof, it was a charm how easy it was to get them off.
A good quality marine paint with none slip added. Good job young man.
Love the wind on the saw at 2:13. Nice touch. cheers, Doi
Great work and great video, keep up the hard work it will pay off in the end.
All of those deck modules need to be secured with a coiled and tied with wool in a bundle under the deck lanyard, so they can be recovered after they get washed overboard. My decking was bolted down and spaced for drainage--yes, one does loose stuff in between the planks, but they drain better, and one can always put netting under them if one is working over them.
I have no idea what the seas are like in your neck of the wood, but my craft was over twenty feet wide, and it reached only one quarter of the height of some of the waves I encountered abeam with a lee shore. Sometimes you only get ONE chance--better maximise it.
I think you're doing a grand job! Good onya fella.
I have watched and enjoyed this journey from the beginning. Being from Newfoundland and having a close tie to the ocean I deeply respect all the work you have put into this.
Love seeing your progress even if it seems slow at times. It'll all be worth it for a lifestyle that so many of us will only be able to dream of. :)
Once you can get her underway to somewhere more convenient and sea-worthy, it should seem like less of a grind as well.
never boring keep them coming
Hey Mark
Good looking work this past week. Happy to see you going hard at it.
Im gonna throw out a suggestion for your deck.
If you take some wood filler putty and spread in the gaps
and then sand it nicely.
Then , what I would do is buy a very HEAVY Fiberglass Cloth and lay it with a Moderate Epoxy Resin.
Then after that you can paint it with a paint and Silica anti-slip mixed it. Then that deck would look and feel very professional and last YEARS.
The Epoxy will need to appropriate hardness so it doesn't spider crack with the flexing of the wood.
I would guess that would cost about £350-400 total
and about 30 Hours labour to do nicely.
But Boy o Boy it would look nice thereafter for Years to come.
Option 2 - Just fill the gaps and use a couple gallons of Thompsons Water Seal and do several coats to last 4/5 years ,,,,
With you Deck getting completed, after you finish your wood , start with your deck hardware.
Another forethought is to have some 1" Stainless Tube and wherever you need a Deck-Thru hole drill the hole with a 1-1/8" holesaw and then cut the Stainless Tube
and Insert and Glue into the Holes.
DONT Skimp on the Deck Mark , You can keep that wood you've laid already by coating or covering or doing the Fiberglass Covering ....
Cheers Buddy.
Keep Going Hard !!!
Chris & Stella.
SV Jaz
SV Hydra
U gotta be happy with the space to work and chill on that new deck mate 👍
I am into house/cabin building now and I am beginning to think of the advantages of Warram's rope lashing. It allows you freedom to change things since you never drill a bolt hole. I think will use it on building the floors of my houses in Portugal and the Philippines.
Remember that paint hides a multude of sins, be more concerned with the stability of the deck both to support your foot traffic and to remain in place in heavy seas, my concern would be the underpinnings more than the aesthetics, line lashings and stainless steal screws are a sailors best friend. good show, on to the next task. thanks for taking us with you.
Yeah, the torx head screws are available all over the EU, I always get them when I can.
Making good progress Mark! Even though you might feel that it's progressing slower than expected, you are moving in the forward direction... Soon you'll be focusing on the mast and rigging.
Let me know if you need a source for netting. I came a cross knotless dynema net supplier in Italy, I think, when I was searching for it online.
You are doing an amazing job mark! I am so impressed and love watching your progress.
Keep on Rockin Breaux!! Love your Drive!!!!!
Yeah the saw is designed to guarantee the proper result. Your life depends on the planks being the exact dimensions.
You’re really doing some great building and engineering . Can’t wait to see her sail
Deck oil is the best for the wood you have plus you can easily re apply after a year. Give the boards a good soaking ideally off the boat.
pressure washer usually brings the colour back. Very satisfying job also.
Power washing can make the wood very fluffy and prone to further discolouration if your cedar is anything like our pine decking timber. 😀
Paint all the d fur with epoxy, especially the check edges for water ingression. Looks fabulous, good work.
Honestly I like the look of the old wood. Its adding a good character to the boat. Keep up your good work. Looking forward to see it sailing
Leave the deck! Is good and its works! Go on with the plates. Nice vid again Mark !
It was a great little video Mark. As always well done and keep up the good work. I think the deck looks fine. Very rustic!! 😉
I always take the tension off the belt on the belt sander after you finish for the day. Keeping the belt tensioned will stretch it larger and make it impossible to keep the rollers in contact with belt.
In canada we use the Robertson, it is a square shape. it doesnt strip, holds itself onto the bit, and can drive a screw all the way through a piece of wood if you dont take care.
Robertson has no business in a boat. I get downright mad when I work on boats and someone has mixed in Robertson screws with the Phillips/Flat Standard that are SUPPOSED to be there. Boat builders always use Phillips and Flat for a hundred years.
If you wanna see your repair bill go UP by most of us marine mechanics, mix in some roberts , we despise them.
I only ever use Robertson, so dont ever buy a used boat/camper/house/trailer from me!@@NomadSurvivor I also do 100% of my own work. Except for household plumbing, I kinda suck at plumbing.
Wash the grey planks with oxcil acid crystals dissolved in soap water . It will remove the grey and return the planks to original colour.
Screws are posi drive heads mark should be a bit with them great job Douglas fir is used a lot up here in Scotland for roofing (darling boards) you can get them tanilized 10 year lifetime guarantee
Bleach or Pool Shock works as well
....then hit it all with a floor sander, then oil and let age.
I came here to recommend this
To clean the deck search for product by OWATROL like "deck cleaner", then use a "saturating wood oil" to protect it from further weather damages.
The deck definitely doesn't look fancy but it sounds like you've got the right idea to get out sailing sooner and worry about making it pretty later.
Still can't believe you've brought this boat back from the dead. Great work, Mark 🙂
the special screw heads you describe could be the ones we call torks heads ... you could also keep an eye out for a joiner plane to get rid of all the bumpy edges
Torx is the best. I built a deck last year and switched to torx halfway through, what a difference! Then a handsaw is good for cutting the tree against the grain, but not along it. Greetings from Sweden!
Mark the deck looks awesome just power wash the old wood will clean it fine project coming out great waiting for next week thank you for sharing John and Marie
You could cover the deck with astroturf. Cheap and keeps you from slipping off.
I think it is coming along nicely, keep up the good work. It is much safer no matter what anyone thinks.
Try oxalic acid (barkeepers friend) on the old wood to restore/clean it.
Love your channel! You could apply ‘shou sugi ban’ to treat the planks. First you burn the outside golden brown with a gas torch, the you treat them with cooked linseed oil, which dries up nicely. If you put on two coats they won’t get waterligged and for maintenance you can always put on more. And best of all this is really easy and fast + it looks amazing! ( did this myself)
Keep up the good work!
She's looking great, Captain!👍
Mark once you are finished and its all sanded to one colour and then top coated with some sort of preservative its going to look exceptional mon ami! 😊
The star shaped screw heads are called Torx. The size is has a T followed by a number,, for example T-8, T-12, or T16
You can remove the gray/brown look from wood and make it look new again with bleach mixed with dish soap. I’ve used this for fences and decks doing residential cleaning. Let it soak for 10-20 minutes or more and scrub with a brush if needed
👏 well done, no more issues of potentially falling through the deck 😂. you can wash the planks that would be a good cheap solution👍
As a deck its great at least you can get about the boat without falling in I agree with a lot of your followers some wood sealant is advisable but i think it looks great especially from your drone well done Mark 😊😊😊
Just taking a break from my boat projects to watch you work on your boat projects. you’re doing an excellent job bringing that boat back to life.
Thx a million, I like the progress you made!
I text you on the las video about the deck. Just use some darkness oil (Noglina). In spanish is Barniz. And you will get similar colour in all the deck + protection. And if is darkness, you wont realize that much about dirty or mistakes. I love it. And in the same line I would paint the rest of the boat on white. Is gonna make you feel in a diferent boat and big progresion with just some paint. Good Job¡ Can not wait for next week
Great video you're boat is looking really good wish i could be there to sail with you i bet it is lots of fun.
I saw that, yep the most important supply of all decking work... decking beer, cannot be done without it!!
Just brilliant Mark....your graft and perseverance makes for great viewing ...just a pity these build videos aren't an hour long....could watch em all night! 🤟😎
We all forget wood, used correctly will work, has done for hundreds of years, you have a plan, I follow with interest.
That decking (28 or 32mm) needs a frame of 50*100 (vertical) every 400-600mm (with 6*100mm screws). Your deckhand with sail on his hands with small jump will go through that. It is easily force more than 200 kg on one 50*200mm spot.
Hi Mark, I just want to give you a big thanks for your story. I started watching when you and Nadiana had 3.7k subs.
Some great experiences for you along the way and as a viewer, some great insights into life on the water.
I intend to motorboat around Ireland over the next year as I'm too old and broken for sailing.
Take care out there and I'm looking forward to the start of your sea trials.
Regards,
Steve W.
Oh wow! Thanks so so much.
It’s been a heck of a trip from then till now. I can see the appeal of motor boating after being on Mum and Dads boat. As long as your out on the water, that’s the main thing!!
Thanks again mate, that’s so nice of you
We're the same Steve...Motor boats all day long!!!😂🤗🤗🤗
Rent a floor sander, it will save hours, and give a nice finish.
A friend of mine back in the early 90's used epoxy with little rubber beads in it and sanded it back down so the beads were through the epoxy and it worked great he used white epoxy the same color as the rest of his cat but with the cl÷ar epoxy nowadays you can leave the natural wood color if you can find little rubber beads you could use
More great progress… thanks for sharing 🙏
Torx head, common in Sweden. Wood preserver and tung oil. Shout out to Marigold Mary and Steve Spanners.
Torx är bara bäst!🙂
There are two types of + heads for that type of fixing. The "Philips" is of course specifically branded but the angles of the screw and the Screw driver are specific and the screw locks onto the screw driver when used in the horizontal plane this is part of the specific patient. The knock-off is called a "posi-drive" the screw does not lock onto the screw driver but it still has the + shape but if you look at the screw head there is a - that forms a second + so you can see the difference between a Philips and pozi-drive screw when you buy them. I have heard them referred to as star, cross, and a few other names.
For the Deck I suggest fiberglass coating, it will waterproof the wood, strengthen the wood and with 2 layers will not add too much weight while giving you a nic solid deck.
If you want to keep it natural, marine varnish is the best I would not suggest a penetrating oil as this would still leave the wood exposed to the salty moisture you need to seal the wood.
Keep on going you will get there!!!
You could rent a propper flooring planar/sander? That makes quick work of this relative small and surface. With propper treatment the deck will look very nice. No need for changing that out.
It's great to see you are starting to get somewhere with constructing the deck , keep up the good work.
You can put plastic bushings in between the aluminum and stainless steel
I would prime and paint that timber with garage floor paint. Its robust and good enough to get that deck a uniform colour. Last coat just toss on some washed builders sand for none skid. You cant polish a turd.
On the deck; it looks amazing! you might wanna lace all planks together as screws will eventually fail under dynamic stress.
The day after you chop off those stainless square tubes you will come up with a great idea!!!
Don't cut then till the last minute. Gary in Japan.
I wouldn't cut them at all I would turn them into a u grab handle point and instrument mounting point.
In the USA the screws are called torx. Definitely my favorite. Slot, phillips,square & now torx. Cheers from Northern California.
Torx screws. Super material.
Superior fastener in all respects....wish the Aviation community would get on-board!! Get it :) On-board! :)
Another thought...is swelling of the boards in tropical heat. And galvanized anything will just turn to rust. I'm not trying to be mean at all. But now the details will save you loads in the future. SS screws are not that expensive here in Canada or the UK, not when its not for a fence, but for your home.
In the middle of a Pacific voyage one of my patrons brought me to England where I worked as a fencer for 7 months. You know when you pass by a fence in bad repair, it always has stains around where the nails or screws held it on to your post. The water creeps in, reacts to the metal and sap, creating a gas which expands the metal therefore making the wood fibre break down letting more moisture in and eventually the bugs that are called rot. That's your deck in a year. If you had a tube of sika, you could go around and unscrew all those screws one by one and dip them in sika spout...and put them back in.
We're all volunteering you for the job!
@@travelbugse2829 it can rot.
@@jerrycooke6511 removing them would cause more harm then good.
@@NomadSurvivorNo
The deck is fine for a temporary solution, it doesn't have to look great just has to work, I'm just wondering how long till the screws rust and you get loose boards. Also make sure the boards are attached to the beams somehow (lashed or screwed) as when you gut a strong gust or big wave between the hulls hitting the underside of those deck boards they will lift and you don't want to loose a section and have a big hole in your deck while at sea.
If I remember correctly the Wharram plans called for the deck boards to be lashed to the beams?
Doing so well fella,since you found her,keep doing what your doing.GBY captain.
Hi Mark, I'd paint it all with primer and epoxy, at least the bottom, the rest can evaporate upwards. The other solution could be to oil it. A note. If stainless steel screws and bolts are cheaper in the Netherlands, I'd buy a batch for future works, so you get to replace it with better wood, but still got cheaper fixings. I'm doing up my boat in Cornwall at the mo, so take great inspiration from your videos. It's an infinite job if you do it well, but sometimes you need to find a compromise. Come up here first before you leave for your world tour, back to your boat's origin and as a lucky charm start. Cheers
big improvement! seal that wood! :)
Great progress! ... really getting there.
This deck will get you out of the marina, thats all that count's (for now.). great update 2x👍
Bog standard deck and skills, yet totally pragmatic. Exceptional dedication and production.
Bugger me,week on the road truck driver,night in the pub,and fu*k me there you are.your smashing this amazing footage ,amazing that your so focused.keep going you make my week ending feel amazingly complete.plum from Essex 🎉
Looking great Mark keep up the good work
This music is smooth AF
Chuck a coat of paint on the decks and it will all be uniform. To stiffen the decks up more, try screwing some 2x4 to the underside with the 2 inch side against the deck...more of a truss.