This EVERCADE VS Freezes on the BOOT SCREEN | Can I FIX It?
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- I bought this BLAZE Evercade VS (Versus?) on eBay for £30. It seems to come on and get stuck early in the boot sequence. Is it going to be a software or hardware issue?
Let's see if we can fix it!
Hope you enjoy!
Steve
PS. I'm not an expert in repairs at all. I do this for fun, and it may not be the best or safest way to go about repairing broken stuff. I'm pretty good at melting plastic though. Please don't copy me - I'm an idiot.
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Stupid Blaze Evercade VS or Versus
Great video in your own style, as expected. Soon to be 100k subs. You must be excited !
thing.
Probably "V.S." I'm guessing it stands for "virtual system" or "videogame system", since it's an emulator.
Mc crapvoice. Nice.
Stupid Coil
Hey Steve! Love the content! If you check the datasheet for the Rockchip RK805 you’ll see that the four coils are 0.47 mH / 2a or 3a. Data sheets are great!
A follow up video required for sure!
I think you meant micro Henries or very small Henries.
@@stevehead365 I believe they prefer to be called Little Henries.
@@olepigeon Hals, in other words.
@@olepigeon Lil Henryz
"A winner is you. Me?" Bro, you had my daughter and I cracking up!
Hey Steve! You are such a GOD! I love your contents and your work. It's so satisfying seeing you bringing back to Life broken stuff 🤭😁
Keep It up!! Best wishes from Italy ;)
There is another way to fix it and that is to put a series of capacitors ,resistors and vregs to cut the voltage down to meet requirements rather than replace the chip.!
Either way what you did was awesome.!
RK805 is a switching power supply controller - check out the datasheet and you will see a reference diagram showing those 4 inductors...
RUclips reccomended this channel just now. Sub earned. What the heck is that song at the end? I'm dying laughing. Giirrllll, i love the way you work it. And if you let me.....ima flip reverse it.
Good job man
This is an absurd repair lol
"This is getting hotter, let's just take it off. Ah, I remember seeing something sorta like this on a Switch. Hey, this one kinda looks like the same one. Aw, no it seems small but let's put it in anyway."
AND THEN IT WORKS
Get in!
Btw those cartridges are micro SD cards that have been rewired over a GBA SP slot.
amazing dude
My fix would have been way easier! Basically you buy a new one off Amazon, raise a return, and send the broken one back 😬
Ryan from Blaze here. Fan of the channel for a while, never thought in a million years I would see something I headed up development on end up here!
Fun fact, this is the first time I’ve heard this happen as these are generally pretty solid out the factory. Gives me something to look at next week 😅
Hope you enjoy the system!
Oh. VS has three meanings, we left it ambiguous so people would debate about it! Vee Ess, Video System and Versus.
@@ryanblaze9611 Lets go old school with the interpretation. It means Viper Scorpion! man, I loved old naming conventions :D
@@ryanblaze9611 I'd prefer Viewing Schematics. 😁
I reckon it's worthy of sending another controller and game cartridge over to him 😉
I’ve heard of these freezing up from a bunch of people. Google evercade vs freezing
"I don't know what to do, because I don't know what I'm doing" 😹 I need that printed on a t-shirt. Great vid. Cheers
Was cool seeing an actual hardware repair to a VS! Just so you know, a flashing yellow light means "No HDMI connected" and the system waits until you plug one in. Should you do so while it's flashing yellow, the system will resume booting as soon as it detects the connection. As for it locking up at different colors (blue & purple), the rainbow flash during startup is scripted to just cycle thru a series of preset colors until the OS is ready and then it stops and settles on red. This can mean the color that it stops on during a boot failure is random luck based on the moment it time the freeze occurs. Another "light code" is maskrom mode for flashing the device. This is invoked by holding the reset button while powering on which gives you a single white LED flash then no LED (and no video if HDMI is plugged in). You can repair corrupt software flashes from this mode. As a side not it will only enter maskrom mode if connected to a PC using a data-capable micro usb cable (the original VS usb cable is not data-capable).
I always forget how small these components are because you always have them under the microscope. When it's on your finger, it really puts into perspective how small these things are and also how good you must be to fix these so effortlessly! Great vid, as always.
Are all these emulator box things failing when people plug in controllers while the thing is switched on and they accidentally short something out? That's all I can think of.
Yeah, definitely could be that, or using the wrong power cable/plug I guess, If there's little or no protection in the circuit to keep costs down. The components used probably aren't the best quality either, also to keep costs down, so they may just fail.
I do wonder if people are using a USB-C PSU with a USB Micro to USB-C cable, sending potentially 15V into a 5V device. Just because it fits, doesn't mean it works. 😝
Cheap components are highly plausible too; I agree. Many companies are trying to cut corners these days... 🤦
Great fix Steve, unusual fault as well. Really interesting 👍
Another ace video, regarding your ending bit about how tiny the problematic component was, it's really quite amazing that such small, and often parts that cost less than a $ or £ can take down something. I've fixed PlayStation 5 consoles that were downed by a component that I could buy for £0.50, and we can safely assume Sony were getting them much cheaper in bulk, really irritating to think something worth over £500 was downed by something so small & cheap!
Definitely. It happens far too often! Really satisfying to find the tiny faults and get them going again though! 😊
This is why companies being open with information about their products and less proprietary components are key to a healthy electronic future.
It didn't help that they were putting capacitors on at the factory with the wrong mf for that circuit because of a chip shortage
Its ironic really the more advance things get the easier they often break.
0.005£
Thanks to your videos I was able to diagnose a fault in a 12v tv/dvd I was given recently - the power had been connected the wrong way round and I eventually found a blown-out power regulator chip. Yay! The downside is, it's too small for me to replace it.
Stupid telly.
The joy of watching your reaction to a successful repair is why I keep coming back! Thanks for repairing the world one electronic device at a time!
I watch solely to hear this man yell "GET IN"
@@wingusdingus1019 me too!!!!!
Me screaming at the video "CHECK THE DATASHEET STEVE" for the chip and itll tell you the coil and... then i realise the video is a year old lol
As far as I understand, both the copper coil and the ferrite are affected by temperature.
The hotter copper gets, the higher its resistance. And the hotter the ferrite gets, the weaker its magnetic field gets. Physical damage can also weaken the conductivity and inductance of an inductor.
A failed inductor is less capable at blocking AC noise, and might not be as good at blocking in-rush current. But mainly, it’s the AC noise that will cause the most problems for chips, as IC chips expect clean power, and any AC noise can cause disruptions in its internal circuitry.
A capacitor, in contrast, is useful to protect against voltage spikes, but it’s also good for filtering out DC current, allowing AC current signals to pass through unimpeded. A failed capacitor can exhibit a complete dead short from signal line straight to ground (but it can also act like it doesn’t exist, not exhibiting a dead short but also not filtering DC current and stopping voltage spikes).
One major difference between the two archetypes of components is that an inductor is often placed inline with the power rail, while a capacitor is often placed between the signal line and ground.
That’s the reason why a failed inductor can cause instabilities (but not direct shorts to ground), while a failed capacitor can cause direct shorts to ground (but seldom instabilities).
PS: The reason the multimeter shows a dead short on an inductor is because the inductor has far too short a response time to really see its current limiting capabilities. You’ll need an oscilloscope to be able to see the resistance curve as current attempts to pass through it.
Remember: an inductor doesn’t resist current throughput per se, it resists *changes* in current throughput. At constant current, the coil acts like a dead short, but an increase in current will lead to an increase in resistance (but this resistance goes down as current starts to pass through). A *decrease* in current leads to a reverse resistance, preventing the current from going down instantly (though this reverse resistance will also go down as current throughput slows down). *There’s a reason why an inductor is also called a “choke”.*
I would say too long didn't read about this was worth reading 😂
Thanks, brilliant comment.
Inductive Reactance of a coil depends on the frequency of the applied voltage as reactance is directly proportional to frequency. Inductive reactance is the property of an inductive coil that resists the change in alternating current (AC) through it and is similar to the opposition to direct current (DC) in a resistance. DC Theory and AC Theory are very different and should not be confused !
Awesome job Steve. I won't lie. I was 75% hoping you would fix it and 25% hoping that would blow up
Very nice! Love these vids. I'd never even heard of this device, now I definitely need one.
Haha, sorry about that Tidder! It's a great console though, I've had a play around with it and there's something special about using physical cartridges and supporting the original developers. It's an experience that isn't matched by any Raspberry Pi or similar!
@@StezStixFix You say that, but I have a raspberry pi that can take gameboy cartridges :)
I'm surprised you didn't spot the coil at 17:15 looked like a perfect match, but glad you got it working regardless.
and it had a spot on it which he said it didnt.maybe needs new specs
I was thinking the exact same thing, looked like the same coil, perfect match.
Same, they were the exact same shape!
@@joebloggs3358 it looks more of a flaw on the surface than a spot
Who else shares his "YESSS" moment?
You could have just checked the datasheet. rockchip.fr/RK805%20datasheet%20V1.2.pdf
That coil is supposed to be 0.47µH (2A)
I’ve just came across your channel and I’ve got to say that I love it. I’ve binged watched like 20+ videos 😂 keep em coming man. So satisfying to watch 😎
A nice trick for your thermal camera - you can buy special thermally transparent lenses for laser cutters for ~$20, something around 50mm focal length 20mm diameter one, just find a way to fasten it to the front of your thermal camera and you'll be able to see SO much more detail on close up board inspection!
I had a shorted circuit causing an overheat shutdown and the chip was turning itself on for like 100ms before turning off again, and I could see the shorted power trace heat up and cool off like a heartbeat/blood vessel, blew my mind 😂
This has to be top tip of the week.
You don't know Burger Time? You should check that out, childhood classic for me.
I've had a quick go on it, and yes I love it already! 😀
Great work Steve. Thank you for the great video keep up the good work cya next time =).
Thanks Frederick! Much appreciated! 👍
I remember losing my money so quick to Sly Spy in the arcade. 10p up in smoke and I'd barely touched the ground. Stupid game.
Did not expect such an inductor to fail! If it would be open circuit it would do the same as when you took it out(nothing) and if it would be shorted it wouldn't heat up. So most likely the wires in the inductor are partly shorted, creating a very low inductance (low uH) coil. This would also explain why it would turn hot because the coil would get completely saturated and start dissipating heat (good thing that rk805 didn't blow)
Things I learn today... that thing is called a coil and can burn out. Nice repair Steve.
apparently also called an inductor. i'm gonna use it to sound like an expert heeheehee
DEar sir, I really like your channel specially the rap part which always makes me smile and I find it so endearing. Sending you my respect and admiration from COlombia!
Did you ever figure out if that coil replacement was the same as the original? I'm curious of the other two coils on the donor switch would have worked to.
I'm going to buy a thermal camera even though I have no use for it, and bask in the heat of Steve's success.
Damn I was waiting for “stupid game”
Great job! I bet that inductor was faulty right out of the factory. It seems that a lot of manufacturers are cheaping out on components; I guess it doesn't affect them, since someone else eats the cost of the defective unit.
I guess the Thermal Camera is becoming a necessity! It would be nice if they just built one into the Microscope so you could just switch to thermal image view. Will the component tester test for millihenries in circuit? Was that reading off on the bad one?
Same questions.
Amazing Steve, love this type of trail and error repairs. love the way you fixed it with parts from a broken switch. great content
This. Evercade. VS. freeze on. The. Boot. Screen. Can. l. Fix it
very nice fix, was wondering if the issue would be found without a therm. cam.
also looked like a good game library on that cartridge, well done fixing it.
You can use alcohol to see if something is heating up too much as it'll evaporate quicker. Also just physically touching components to see what heats up is an option. 46c is definitely going to be noticeably warm!
Must say my old pc repairing mind went straight to thinking the boot rom was fudged in some way kind of surprises me it was what I'm guessing was an inductor.
he didnt say stupid game :o im gonna have to try that game out.
Don't censor yourself, Steve. You say amazeballs as much as you want! 🤣💜
Also, I need to pick up an IR camera. That thing is worth its weight in palladium
I LOVE all your videos. I'm learning how to fix Electronic stuff, and I just got the same Blue pad as yours and a new soldering station. Thank you SO MUCH!! You are teaching me so much new stuff. I loved it when you said "I wish I knew more stuff".
A good LCR meter can measure those. Usually these inductors have a flat enamel coated wire wrapped around the core and if the enamel breaks down from excessive heat the coil will literally be a short circuit rather than an inductor.
That sticker was probably a thermal pad for that little chip.
Steve you got that thing man xdd Never seen a coil shorting a line. I dont even think thats what happened, but the replacement worked. I was taught that as long as a coil has continuity it is good. Today you proved them wrong. Keep it up to them 100k!
The heat indicates that there was some resistance/thin wire in the coil continuity is there but it is generating heat, similar to a light bulb.
You were taught wrong. If a coil has a shorted turn then it will be useless as an inductor
@@okaar But he measured resistance and it turned out the same as other coils.
@@goku445 the reading so low it was within error margins of the meter
What is this little muppet poping up in your vids ? Love it ! Congrats for the repair !
😁 Thanks Bruno. That's Gordon The Gopher, a Children's BBC icon from the 1990's! No idea when I started using him for the sped up squeaky parts, but I can't stop now! 🤣
I was wondering about this myself. It all becomes clearer. Lol and funnier. 😆
@@StezStixFix I do love him so much and it is soooo funny please make him appear in every video at least once 😂
Thanks for the infos I didn’t know him he’s cute 😍
@@chrisj2848 so much fun 😂😍
@@StezStixFix Just need Roland Rat to come and roast you when you mess up :D
Steve, I love it! I genuinely enjoy your excitement when things work for you. Keep up the great videos mate
Awesome job Steve. It's always so fun to watch you go through your steps and processes and figure it out. Thanks for the video.
He has a wonderfully creative and logical thought process going on underneath that cuddly, jokey exterior
Damn, this was a really hard repair, never thinked that an inductor could be the problem. Cheers, Steve :)
Well done on the fix,
It is quite shocking that such a small component can take out an entire system
BTW, the light bar on the front of the machine does actually give you some indication of what the console is doing (and any issues it has)
When booting it will cycle through a number of colours (you can see yours doing this a few times in the video)
The Yellow flashing light it ended up on when you powered it up after replacing the component was just telling you there was no HDMI Connected,
When running correctly it should flash a few colours then end up on red,
Andy
Excellent job... I love how you narrow down the suspects and usually find it.. well done.... Stupid Game :)
While pretending he doesn't know what he's doing ;)
the best bit is when ever Ste fixes anything and his face lights up :D
well done bud.
Nice one, Steve! "Easy" fix, but excellent troubleshooting.
And Yuri Nator, I love your pseudo!
Thanks Fred! This was a super satisfying fix! 😁
You definitely the winner❤so cute
Thermo-cam saves the day! going to have to get me one of those!
Definitely! Thermo-cam has come to the rescue on numerous occassions. I guess you could use IPA and see what burns off, but there's something satisfying about seeing the heat spots! 👍
I think the coil in question was overheating because of unusual resistance. It was behaving like a heating element. Nice job replacing the offending coil. All good wishes!
Don't you own one if those transistor/component testers (like a LCR-T4)? They do inductors too.
If not, get one. They're cheap and convenient.
The rap was higher quality than those "$10M house" american rappers
Been telling him to drop an album 🤣
WOW...... I think this is absolutely awesome. This is a product I think could be in the future of my channel!!!
Great video thanks😄😄😄
Amazing fix.. congratulations and welcome to the Evercade Club!
Your style of editing leave lots of space and realistic pauses, in the video (with flourishes in the edit of course). Which is refreshing from videos that cut every silent second of air time and have hyper accelerated editing styles.
It's nice to see how... slow.. real life is. Makes us understand how to solve real issues and how slow it really is. Even when you fast-forward, that gives me a better idea of time passage than a jump cut that most RUclipsrs would do.
Never seen this channel before but I'll have to see more.
I hate how other RUclipsrs edit parts out etc. You're going too fast, we want to see and understand the whole process!
OMG!!! Just some random piece fixed it?!?!?! - With THAT kind of LUCK you got me SUBBED ALL DAY!!! HAHAHAHAAA!!!
WOAH WOAH WOAH! WHAT DO YOU MEAN "I QUITE LIKE THIS GAME"??? EVERYONE KNOWS THE LINE IS "STUPID GAME"!!!
(also love your channel, I find your repair videos very relaxing, and you repair cool stuff)
Which is more satisfying - seeing it work or hearing Steve celebrate with “get in!”? The world may never know.
I'd buy a "Get in!" T-Shirt any day of the week.
2 thingsthat instantly put me off this console. They cant make a good fitting usb port. And that dpad looks like a early 90s russia/china clone controller quality. look at the free play and gap yuck
22:51 I played that game in Woolwich Arcade when I was about 13 (Prob 1993) I'm pretty sure I got about as far as you did too. Good times...When you weren't getting mugged for your spare change.
This is precisely why I think it should be legally mandated that every electronic device sold needs to have scematics and replacement parts available. It's never fun when you try to repair something, and find a broken component you have no idea wtf it is or what it's doing because NO MARKINGS OR INFORMATION ANYWHERE.
This would have been e-waste all because of ONE tiny component that even a relative novice with a soldering iron and LEGO skills could fix.
We need to normalize the idea of repairing electronics, not just throwing it away and buying a new one when something goes wrong.
I'm a pc geek but am shite with electronics. Your videos are really interesting though! When you remove an I.C., whats that clear gel you put on the component and whats its purpose? Thanks!
Straight away I assume either faulty vreg , capacitor/resistor or bad bios/software.!
Vreg/cap/resistor not supply correct voltage to bios/CMOS/eepromthis also powers external hardware cart etc.!
Corrupt bios/CMOS/eeprom
Needs reflash
Software loader corrupted.!
How the fuck you got this to work is beyond my comprehension. The techno Gods where surely taking pity on you this day. You swapped over a part you recognized from a Switch that you didn't fully understand what it did, found it to be smaller than the original one, but still crossed your fingers and out of desperation, continued to proceed. And that worked!? How long that machine lasts for is the next question.
Glad you finally found a game that is just stupid. Thank you for inspiring me to just pull stuff apart again instead of just chucking it out. LED lights fixed already. Great work Steve, great content too. Nice.
You can look at coils like they are reverse of capacitors. At high frequency they behave as resistors but at low frequency (DC = 0 Hz as low as you can get) they are just wires, capacitors at high freq conduct like wires but at low freq act as big resistors (insulators) and read OL or megaohms. And that's why measuring them with multimeter is not best way to test them, but with that said better multimeters have mode to measure inductance.
A coil often has a very low resistense when measure Ohm. It's a frequency dependent resistor. You need a LCR-meter to measure it's resistens.
And in fact it should be taken out of the circuit before measurement.
Hi Steve, love your videos, think! Simple coils are sort of like little transformers, the windings can short, hence the overheating. The coil has wire that is insulated and that is their weakness. That insulation can become damaged due heat or just wear. Seen it many times over the years and often times it's a struggle to troubleshoot. As you think, well it has continuity it should be fine but as you saw just because it is connected does not mean it's okay. Yep, coils short just like transformers. Little Coils, Little Transformers, Not the same but are the same. Simple way of looking at it.
Hi Steve, love the content ... I am looking for a good thermal camera, but your swanky "Huepar hti80p" doesn't show up on Google, as in anywhere? :\
Inductors are a pain in the ass to troubleshoot, great catch!
There are some really nice small test meters from PEAK
Specifically an LCR meter if you were interested in being able to measure passive components in the future 😊
Mate your absolutely mint to watch and so genuine and natural in front of the camera nobody was more pleased than me to see that boot up ! Have faith in yourself brother cos every time you say
" I'm not gonna be able to fix it" we all know you can your train of thinking and problem solving is truly amazing to witness so simple yet so logical even dumb asses like me can understand and using a thermal camera to solve a problem blows my mind keep up the good work from your new subscriber 👍
At least Blaze deserves recognition for making repairs relatively doable with generic screws and parts that can be borrowed from a different PCBs. Their quality control can be hit and miss, however.
Watched cause I've never heard of the EVERCADE VS . Googled: a retro gaming console sold starting 2021 hmmm
Loving the channel, a recent subscriber. I had Sly Spy on the Atari ST…. Well done on the repair, another item salvaged…
Now that's what i call "bodge"! Seen something similar on a Switch board "eh that might work?" completely different appearance, only just fits and it still worked! Hahah that was awesome.
Well... I haven't read through all of the comments, but, to explain what happened there: the coil developed what's known as a shorted turn. I.e. at some point, somewhere, the insulation on the copper wire the coil is made up of, failed, creating a loop of wire which is shorted together.
This turns the coil into a kind of transformer, dumping all of its energy into this shorted turn, heating it up and robbing the chip of a required voltage. Hence the whole thing didn't work.
It's highly unlikely you fixed this with the right part, but, meh....
P Diddy StezStix comin' atcha! With a talent for electronics and beatronix all in one bruv haha. Love your channel man. Nice fix. You deserve more subs.
My.mates one did this the other night just black screen after playing fo an hour. It came back on after 10+ trys of swapping carts an turning on and off... then working just fine ??? We think software is glitchy in the Evercade vs??
hope gordon is getting his due appearance fees.....little gopher must be due at least £11.38 for this😉
shiny plaque soon???
Liking the positively. It looks about right therefore it must be right. Buys the controller before it's fixed ! Positively for ya !
I've seen this before normally caused by people using cheap Chinese power adapters.
That push to many volts.
And way to many amp's.
I love this channel!!!
An LCR Meter is what one should have for measuring capacitance and inductance.. It does resistance too. L=Inductance C= Capacitance R= Resistance. LCR Meter.
I'm sure you've learned, or someone told you, but without an LCR meter, you could use an oscilloscope, ideally with a function/wave generator to get some values and calcuate L.
That's the second time I've seen you pull out that neat little heat meter . . . thing. Very handy for just this sort of job (and the other one I watched). I jotted down the make and model.
Bought the amp/volt meter you use because it seems more flexible than the one I have.
I think I have a little device that you attach components to and it tells you its value. So in this instance, removing one of the other coils and measuring it would be one way to go.
What I really like is your methods and thinking are in many ways like my own and because you are lets be honest enough times to make it worth while, this shows me that I am using a realistic logic path when repair mystery issues . . . most times. It is a percentage game tho, no doubt there.