Hey Steve! Love the content! If you check the datasheet for the Rockchip RK805 you’ll see that the four coils are 0.47 mH / 2a or 3a. Data sheets are great!
Ryan from Blaze here. Fan of the channel for a while, never thought in a million years I would see something I headed up development on end up here! Fun fact, this is the first time I’ve heard this happen as these are generally pretty solid out the factory. Gives me something to look at next week 😅 Hope you enjoy the system!
I always forget how small these components are because you always have them under the microscope. When it's on your finger, it really puts into perspective how small these things are and also how good you must be to fix these so effortlessly! Great vid, as always.
Was cool seeing an actual hardware repair to a VS! Just so you know, a flashing yellow light means "No HDMI connected" and the system waits until you plug one in. Should you do so while it's flashing yellow, the system will resume booting as soon as it detects the connection. As for it locking up at different colors (blue & purple), the rainbow flash during startup is scripted to just cycle thru a series of preset colors until the OS is ready and then it stops and settles on red. This can mean the color that it stops on during a boot failure is random luck based on the moment it time the freeze occurs. Another "light code" is maskrom mode for flashing the device. This is invoked by holding the reset button while powering on which gives you a single white LED flash then no LED (and no video if HDMI is plugged in). You can repair corrupt software flashes from this mode. As a side not it will only enter maskrom mode if connected to a PC using a data-capable micro usb cable (the original VS usb cable is not data-capable).
Thanks to your videos I was able to diagnose a fault in a 12v tv/dvd I was given recently - the power had been connected the wrong way round and I eventually found a blown-out power regulator chip. Yay! The downside is, it's too small for me to replace it. Stupid telly.
Another ace video, regarding your ending bit about how tiny the problematic component was, it's really quite amazing that such small, and often parts that cost less than a $ or £ can take down something. I've fixed PlayStation 5 consoles that were downed by a component that I could buy for £0.50, and we can safely assume Sony were getting them much cheaper in bulk, really irritating to think something worth over £500 was downed by something so small & cheap!
I LOVE all your videos. I'm learning how to fix Electronic stuff, and I just got the same Blue pad as yours and a new soldering station. Thank you SO MUCH!! You are teaching me so much new stuff. I loved it when you said "I wish I knew more stuff".
I’ve just came across your channel and I’ve got to say that I love it. I’ve binged watched like 20+ videos 😂 keep em coming man. So satisfying to watch 😎
Not sure why a coil would get super hot without something downstream short circuiting. I would have thought a replacement would get hot too. Very strange. Hats off to you, I would not have replaced it without hunting for something else causing the current drain. YOU ARE THE WINNER. 👍
Mate your absolutely mint to watch and so genuine and natural in front of the camera nobody was more pleased than me to see that boot up ! Have faith in yourself brother cos every time you say " I'm not gonna be able to fix it" we all know you can your train of thinking and problem solving is truly amazing to witness so simple yet so logical even dumb asses like me can understand and using a thermal camera to solve a problem blows my mind keep up the good work from your new subscriber 👍
Did not expect such an inductor to fail! If it would be open circuit it would do the same as when you took it out(nothing) and if it would be shorted it wouldn't heat up. So most likely the wires in the inductor are partly shorted, creating a very low inductance (low uH) coil. This would also explain why it would turn hot because the coil would get completely saturated and start dissipating heat (good thing that rk805 didn't blow)
A nice trick for your thermal camera - you can buy special thermally transparent lenses for laser cutters for ~$20, something around 50mm focal length 20mm diameter one, just find a way to fasten it to the front of your thermal camera and you'll be able to see SO much more detail on close up board inspection! I had a shorted circuit causing an overheat shutdown and the chip was turning itself on for like 100ms before turning off again, and I could see the shorted power trace heat up and cool off like a heartbeat/blood vessel, blew my mind 😂
Your style of editing leave lots of space and realistic pauses, in the video (with flourishes in the edit of course). Which is refreshing from videos that cut every silent second of air time and have hyper accelerated editing styles. It's nice to see how... slow.. real life is. Makes us understand how to solve real issues and how slow it really is. Even when you fast-forward, that gives me a better idea of time passage than a jump cut that most RUclipsrs would do. Never seen this channel before but I'll have to see more.
Great job! I bet that inductor was faulty right out of the factory. It seems that a lot of manufacturers are cheaping out on components; I guess it doesn't affect them, since someone else eats the cost of the defective unit.
I don't think I've ever seen a rapping patron shoutout disassembly sequence before, so kudoz for doing things in the medium and also tricking me into hearing all the patron names!
Shorted turns on the coil, most likely. Good fix. I used your tequniques to fix an Auraglow dimmable bulb. I eventually spotted the discoloured ceramic cap (shorted) and chopped it out. Works fine, maybe a bit more RF interference. I 'reasoned' that if I replaced the cap, it would just blow again, so thanks Steve. Steve.
I find it best to pick up SMDs with a dab of flux of the tweezers and try to never squeeze the part between the tweezers unless required. I love the way you stumble along with great success in the end. You make it easy for us less skilled to know it can be done with success even when we lack confidence.
Haha, sorry about that Tidder! It's a great console though, I've had a play around with it and there's something special about using physical cartridges and supporting the original developers. It's an experience that isn't matched by any Raspberry Pi or similar!
When steve says "i don't know what to do" i know the video is going to be interesting 😁, thanks Steve all of your videos are actually interesting and i really like your content 🇹🇳💓
Inductors are a pain in the ass to troubleshoot, great catch!
Год назад+1
DEar sir, I really like your channel specially the rap part which always makes me smile and I find it so endearing. Sending you my respect and admiration from COlombia!
Your surprise and happiness every time you fix something you've guessed at the problem for is worth the price of admission alone :D Great vid, keep learning and discovering!
very nice fix, was wondering if the issue would be found without a therm. cam. also looked like a good game library on that cartridge, well done fixing it.
You can use alcohol to see if something is heating up too much as it'll evaporate quicker. Also just physically touching components to see what heats up is an option. 46c is definitely going to be noticeably warm!
its great how you show us how you think to work through things in your mind on the fixing of these things , your teaching skill are fabulous thank you very much
Definitely! Thermo-cam has come to the rescue on numerous occassions. I guess you could use IPA and see what burns off, but there's something satisfying about seeing the heat spots! 👍
Год назад+2
Nice one, Steve! "Easy" fix, but excellent troubleshooting. And Yuri Nator, I love your pseudo!
amazing repair as usually i love it when it all comes down to one microscopic thing on the whole thing that causes it to fail. always check the circuits or being something simple people of why its not working.
Youve build up a lot of convidence in me, so i decided to have a look at my faulty DS1815+… its now working again, after some failed soldering 😅 thank you, keep up the work
Nice repair, man. I have one anbernic with extremely slow performance in the menu on my bench for a while. This video inspires me to look at it the next few days. Keep up with the entertaining videos. I really enjoy when you fix something faulty.
Glad you finally found a game that is just stupid. Thank you for inspiring me to just pull stuff apart again instead of just chucking it out. LED lights fixed already. Great work Steve, great content too. Nice.
As far as I understand, both the copper coil and the ferrite are affected by temperature. The hotter copper gets, the higher its resistance. And the hotter the ferrite gets, the weaker its magnetic field gets. Physical damage can also weaken the conductivity and inductance of an inductor. A failed inductor is less capable at blocking AC noise, and might not be as good at blocking in-rush current. But mainly, it’s the AC noise that will cause the most problems for chips, as IC chips expect clean power, and any AC noise can cause disruptions in its internal circuitry. A capacitor, in contrast, is useful to protect against voltage spikes, but it’s also good for filtering out DC current, allowing AC current signals to pass through unimpeded. A failed capacitor can exhibit a complete dead short from signal line straight to ground (but it can also act like it doesn’t exist, not exhibiting a dead short but also not filtering DC current and stopping voltage spikes). One major difference between the two archetypes of components is that an inductor is often placed inline with the power rail, while a capacitor is often placed between the signal line and ground. That’s the reason why a failed inductor can cause instabilities (but not direct shorts to ground), while a failed capacitor can cause direct shorts to ground (but seldom instabilities). PS: The reason the multimeter shows a dead short on an inductor is because the inductor has far too short a response time to really see its current limiting capabilities. You’ll need an oscilloscope to be able to see the resistance curve as current attempts to pass through it. Remember: an inductor doesn’t resist current throughput per se, it resists *changes* in current throughput. At constant current, the coil acts like a dead short, but an increase in current will lead to an increase in resistance (but this resistance goes down as current starts to pass through). A *decrease* in current leads to a reverse resistance, preventing the current from going down instantly (though this reverse resistance will also go down as current throughput slows down). *There’s a reason why an inductor is also called a “choke”.*
Inductive Reactance of a coil depends on the frequency of the applied voltage as reactance is directly proportional to frequency. Inductive reactance is the property of an inductive coil that resists the change in alternating current (AC) through it and is similar to the opposition to direct current (DC) in a resistance. DC Theory and AC Theory are very different and should not be confused !
I think the coil in question was overheating because of unusual resistance. It was behaving like a heating element. Nice job replacing the offending coil. All good wishes!
Hi Steve, love your videos, think! Simple coils are sort of like little transformers, the windings can short, hence the overheating. The coil has wire that is insulated and that is their weakness. That insulation can become damaged due heat or just wear. Seen it many times over the years and often times it's a struggle to troubleshoot. As you think, well it has continuity it should be fine but as you saw just because it is connected does not mean it's okay. Yep, coils short just like transformers. Little Coils, Little Transformers, Not the same but are the same. Simple way of looking at it.
That's the second time I've seen you pull out that neat little heat meter . . . thing. Very handy for just this sort of job (and the other one I watched). I jotted down the make and model. Bought the amp/volt meter you use because it seems more flexible than the one I have. I think I have a little device that you attach components to and it tells you its value. So in this instance, removing one of the other coils and measuring it would be one way to go. What I really like is your methods and thinking are in many ways like my own and because you are lets be honest enough times to make it worth while, this shows me that I am using a realistic logic path when repair mystery issues . . . most times. It is a percentage game tho, no doubt there.
My guess is the dot on the inductor is purely to assist the pick and place machine orient the chip properly. Also would make visual inspection for proper installation easier; otherwise, the orientation is irrelevant (inductors aren't polarized, but they're hard to tell if you have installed them sideways or not).
Steve you got that thing man xdd Never seen a coil shorting a line. I dont even think thats what happened, but the replacement worked. I was taught that as long as a coil has continuity it is good. Today you proved them wrong. Keep it up to them 100k!
Well done on the fix, It is quite shocking that such a small component can take out an entire system BTW, the light bar on the front of the machine does actually give you some indication of what the console is doing (and any issues it has) When booting it will cycle through a number of colours (you can see yours doing this a few times in the video) The Yellow flashing light it ended up on when you powered it up after replacing the component was just telling you there was no HDMI Connected, When running correctly it should flash a few colours then end up on red, Andy
Did you ever figure out if that coil replacement was the same as the original? I'm curious of the other two coils on the donor switch would have worked to.
A good LCR meter can measure those. Usually these inductors have a flat enamel coated wire wrapped around the core and if the enamel breaks down from excessive heat the coil will literally be a short circuit rather than an inductor.
Don't censor yourself, Steve. You say amazeballs as much as you want! 🤣💜 Also, I need to pick up an IR camera. That thing is worth its weight in palladium
I can idendify with the wish to fux stuff and you have the skills! 👍 as Boltonian I'm curious to know if you are related to my dentist! You have very similar expressions.
Stupid Blaze Evercade VS or Versus
Great video in your own style, as expected. Soon to be 100k subs. You must be excited !
thing.
Probably "V.S." I'm guessing it stands for "virtual system" or "videogame system", since it's an emulator.
Mc crapvoice. Nice.
Stupid Coil
"I don't know what to do, because I don't know what I'm doing" 😹 I need that printed on a t-shirt. Great vid. Cheers
Hey Steve! Love the content! If you check the datasheet for the Rockchip RK805 you’ll see that the four coils are 0.47 mH / 2a or 3a. Data sheets are great!
A follow up video required for sure!
I think you meant micro Henries or very small Henries.
@@stevehead365 I believe they prefer to be called Little Henries.
@@olepigeon Hals, in other words.
@@olepigeon Lil Henryz
Ryan from Blaze here. Fan of the channel for a while, never thought in a million years I would see something I headed up development on end up here!
Fun fact, this is the first time I’ve heard this happen as these are generally pretty solid out the factory. Gives me something to look at next week 😅
Hope you enjoy the system!
Oh. VS has three meanings, we left it ambiguous so people would debate about it! Vee Ess, Video System and Versus.
@@ryanblaze9611 Lets go old school with the interpretation. It means Viper Scorpion! man, I loved old naming conventions :D
@@ryanblaze9611 I'd prefer Viewing Schematics. 😁
I reckon it's worthy of sending another controller and game cartridge over to him 😉
I’ve heard of these freezing up from a bunch of people. Google evercade vs freezing
"A winner is you. Me?" Bro, you had my daughter and I cracking up!
I always forget how small these components are because you always have them under the microscope. When it's on your finger, it really puts into perspective how small these things are and also how good you must be to fix these so effortlessly! Great vid, as always.
Was cool seeing an actual hardware repair to a VS! Just so you know, a flashing yellow light means "No HDMI connected" and the system waits until you plug one in. Should you do so while it's flashing yellow, the system will resume booting as soon as it detects the connection. As for it locking up at different colors (blue & purple), the rainbow flash during startup is scripted to just cycle thru a series of preset colors until the OS is ready and then it stops and settles on red. This can mean the color that it stops on during a boot failure is random luck based on the moment it time the freeze occurs. Another "light code" is maskrom mode for flashing the device. This is invoked by holding the reset button while powering on which gives you a single white LED flash then no LED (and no video if HDMI is plugged in). You can repair corrupt software flashes from this mode. As a side not it will only enter maskrom mode if connected to a PC using a data-capable micro usb cable (the original VS usb cable is not data-capable).
Thanks to your videos I was able to diagnose a fault in a 12v tv/dvd I was given recently - the power had been connected the wrong way round and I eventually found a blown-out power regulator chip. Yay! The downside is, it's too small for me to replace it.
Stupid telly.
Awesome job Steve. I won't lie. I was 75% hoping you would fix it and 25% hoping that would blow up
Great fix Steve, unusual fault as well. Really interesting 👍
The joy of watching your reaction to a successful repair is why I keep coming back! Thanks for repairing the world one electronic device at a time!
I watch solely to hear this man yell "GET IN"
@@wingusdingus1019 me too!!!!!
Things I learn today... that thing is called a coil and can burn out. Nice repair Steve.
apparently also called an inductor. i'm gonna use it to sound like an expert heeheehee
I love watching people win after applying their skills and brains. Congratulation on a job well done.
Another ace video, regarding your ending bit about how tiny the problematic component was, it's really quite amazing that such small, and often parts that cost less than a $ or £ can take down something. I've fixed PlayStation 5 consoles that were downed by a component that I could buy for £0.50, and we can safely assume Sony were getting them much cheaper in bulk, really irritating to think something worth over £500 was downed by something so small & cheap!
Definitely. It happens far too often! Really satisfying to find the tiny faults and get them going again though! 😊
This is why companies being open with information about their products and less proprietary components are key to a healthy electronic future.
It didn't help that they were putting capacitors on at the factory with the wrong mf for that circuit because of a chip shortage
Its ironic really the more advance things get the easier they often break.
0.005£
I LOVE all your videos. I'm learning how to fix Electronic stuff, and I just got the same Blue pad as yours and a new soldering station. Thank you SO MUCH!! You are teaching me so much new stuff. I loved it when you said "I wish I knew more stuff".
I’ve just came across your channel and I’ve got to say that I love it. I’ve binged watched like 20+ videos 😂 keep em coming man. So satisfying to watch 😎
Not sure why a coil would get super hot without something downstream short circuiting. I would have thought a replacement would get hot too. Very strange. Hats off to you, I would not have replaced it without hunting for something else causing the current drain. YOU ARE THE WINNER. 👍
Steve, I've been watching your content for some time. I think your my hero. Repairing electronics is a lost skill in our disposable society.
Thank you for recording your face expression as you turned it on after changing the component and connecting it to the monitor - priceless 😁
There's just somthing so relaxing about watching electrinic repairs
I'm surprised you didn't spot the coil at 17:15 looked like a perfect match, but glad you got it working regardless.
and it had a spot on it which he said it didnt.maybe needs new specs
I was thinking the exact same thing, looked like the same coil, perfect match.
Same, they were the exact same shape!
@@joebloggs3358 it looks more of a flaw on the surface than a spot
A faulty coil, wow! Now that’s bloody rare and not something I would’ve thought about. Well done!!!
I'm going to buy a thermal camera even though I have no use for it, and bask in the heat of Steve's success.
Which is more satisfying - seeing it work or hearing Steve celebrate with “get in!”? The world may never know.
I'd buy a "Get in!" T-Shirt any day of the week.
Mate your absolutely mint to watch and so genuine and natural in front of the camera nobody was more pleased than me to see that boot up ! Have faith in yourself brother cos every time you say
" I'm not gonna be able to fix it" we all know you can your train of thinking and problem solving is truly amazing to witness so simple yet so logical even dumb asses like me can understand and using a thermal camera to solve a problem blows my mind keep up the good work from your new subscriber 👍
My tarantula started drumming her enclosure as soon as your rap started and ended, good timing. We both really enjoyed it!
the best bit is when ever Ste fixes anything and his face lights up :D
well done bud.
Did not expect such an inductor to fail! If it would be open circuit it would do the same as when you took it out(nothing) and if it would be shorted it wouldn't heat up. So most likely the wires in the inductor are partly shorted, creating a very low inductance (low uH) coil. This would also explain why it would turn hot because the coil would get completely saturated and start dissipating heat (good thing that rk805 didn't blow)
So I’m sat here in hospital with chronic lung disease laughing my head off…. Keep it coming
A nice trick for your thermal camera - you can buy special thermally transparent lenses for laser cutters for ~$20, something around 50mm focal length 20mm diameter one, just find a way to fasten it to the front of your thermal camera and you'll be able to see SO much more detail on close up board inspection!
I had a shorted circuit causing an overheat shutdown and the chip was turning itself on for like 100ms before turning off again, and I could see the shorted power trace heat up and cool off like a heartbeat/blood vessel, blew my mind 😂
This has to be top tip of the week.
I love the excitement you have every time something works after you fix it.
Amazing Steve, love this type of trail and error repairs. love the way you fixed it with parts from a broken switch. great content
Your style of editing leave lots of space and realistic pauses, in the video (with flourishes in the edit of course). Which is refreshing from videos that cut every silent second of air time and have hyper accelerated editing styles.
It's nice to see how... slow.. real life is. Makes us understand how to solve real issues and how slow it really is. Even when you fast-forward, that gives me a better idea of time passage than a jump cut that most RUclipsrs would do.
Never seen this channel before but I'll have to see more.
I hate how other RUclipsrs edit parts out etc. You're going too fast, we want to see and understand the whole process!
Great ingenuity and was lucky you recalled the switch having similar parts.
Great job! I bet that inductor was faulty right out of the factory. It seems that a lot of manufacturers are cheaping out on components; I guess it doesn't affect them, since someone else eats the cost of the defective unit.
I don't think I've ever seen a rapping patron shoutout disassembly sequence before, so kudoz for doing things in the medium and also tricking me into hearing all the patron names!
Shorted turns on the coil, most likely. Good fix. I used your tequniques to fix an Auraglow dimmable bulb. I eventually spotted the discoloured ceramic cap (shorted) and chopped it out. Works fine, maybe a bit more RF interference. I 'reasoned' that if I replaced the cap, it would just blow again, so thanks Steve. Steve.
I appreciate that you talk about your thought process while trouble shooting. It's very helpful
I find it best to pick up SMDs with a dab of flux of the tweezers and try to never squeeze the part between the tweezers unless required. I love the way you stumble along with great success in the end. You make it easy for us less skilled to know it can be done with success even when we lack confidence.
Very nice! Love these vids. I'd never even heard of this device, now I definitely need one.
Haha, sorry about that Tidder! It's a great console though, I've had a play around with it and there's something special about using physical cartridges and supporting the original developers. It's an experience that isn't matched by any Raspberry Pi or similar!
@@StezStixFix You say that, but I have a raspberry pi that can take gameboy cartridges :)
Love the addition of the live split screen Steve reaction when this worked
I was legitimately as happy as you were when you fixed it. Well done mate 😎👍
I love how genuinely surprised you are every time you get something working. Excellent work! Love the vids!
When steve says "i don't know what to do" i know the video is going to be interesting 😁, thanks Steve all of your videos are actually interesting and i really like your content 🇹🇳💓
Inductors are a pain in the ass to troubleshoot, great catch!
DEar sir, I really like your channel specially the rap part which always makes me smile and I find it so endearing. Sending you my respect and admiration from COlombia!
Your surprise and happiness every time you fix something you've guessed at the problem for is worth the price of admission alone :D Great vid, keep learning and discovering!
I like how you just say you don't know rather than trying to bs it.
Damn, this was a really hard repair, never thinked that an inductor could be the problem. Cheers, Steve :)
Amazing fix.. congratulations and welcome to the Evercade Club!
very nice fix, was wondering if the issue would be found without a therm. cam.
also looked like a good game library on that cartridge, well done fixing it.
You can use alcohol to see if something is heating up too much as it'll evaporate quicker. Also just physically touching components to see what heats up is an option. 46c is definitely going to be noticeably warm!
its great how you show us how you think to work through things in your mind on the fixing of these things , your teaching skill are fabulous thank you very much
Thermo-cam saves the day! going to have to get me one of those!
Definitely! Thermo-cam has come to the rescue on numerous occassions. I guess you could use IPA and see what burns off, but there's something satisfying about seeing the heat spots! 👍
Nice one, Steve! "Easy" fix, but excellent troubleshooting.
And Yuri Nator, I love your pseudo!
Thanks Fred! This was a super satisfying fix! 😁
amazing repair as usually i love it when it all comes down to one microscopic thing on the whole thing that causes it to fail.
always check the circuits or being something simple people of why its not working.
I’ve only seen the pics of one. But this vid puts the console in a better light so to speak. It’s very cute, love the power on RGB nice and subtle.
Youve build up a lot of convidence in me, so i decided to have a look at my faulty DS1815+… its now working again, after some failed soldering 😅 thank you, keep up the work
once again you fixed it I need to invest in a thermal camera cause it always shows you which component is the issue and very cool fix
Awesome job Steve. It's always so fun to watch you go through your steps and processes and figure it out. Thanks for the video.
He has a wonderfully creative and logical thought process going on underneath that cuddly, jokey exterior
I love how excited you get when you fix things.
Good video on the difference between deduction and induction.
I'm well past the age for handheld video games, but do love these fix vids! Keep 'em coming uncle Stez!!
A remarkable fix, never thought for a minute replacing the inductor would fix it.
That thermal camera is so useful i must look into getting one
Great! You have pillaged parts from the Nintendo Switch for the unknown Evercade Vs.!!!! Fine choice in some dimensions. Good show!
I don't know why the singing is interrupted by repair attempts... Love this format.
Good stuff. Don't be shy with the flux. You can never have too much!
Nice repair, man. I have one anbernic with extremely slow performance in the menu on my bench for a while. This video inspires me to look at it the next few days. Keep up with the entertaining videos. I really enjoy when you fix something faulty.
Love the jubilation on your face when it turned on... Small victories make you feel like you just conquered the world!
Great content you produce. I am in awe of your skills with the equipment and willingness to give anything a go! I am a fan!
Glad you finally found a game that is just stupid. Thank you for inspiring me to just pull stuff apart again instead of just chucking it out. LED lights fixed already. Great work Steve, great content too. Nice.
As far as I understand, both the copper coil and the ferrite are affected by temperature.
The hotter copper gets, the higher its resistance. And the hotter the ferrite gets, the weaker its magnetic field gets. Physical damage can also weaken the conductivity and inductance of an inductor.
A failed inductor is less capable at blocking AC noise, and might not be as good at blocking in-rush current. But mainly, it’s the AC noise that will cause the most problems for chips, as IC chips expect clean power, and any AC noise can cause disruptions in its internal circuitry.
A capacitor, in contrast, is useful to protect against voltage spikes, but it’s also good for filtering out DC current, allowing AC current signals to pass through unimpeded. A failed capacitor can exhibit a complete dead short from signal line straight to ground (but it can also act like it doesn’t exist, not exhibiting a dead short but also not filtering DC current and stopping voltage spikes).
One major difference between the two archetypes of components is that an inductor is often placed inline with the power rail, while a capacitor is often placed between the signal line and ground.
That’s the reason why a failed inductor can cause instabilities (but not direct shorts to ground), while a failed capacitor can cause direct shorts to ground (but seldom instabilities).
PS: The reason the multimeter shows a dead short on an inductor is because the inductor has far too short a response time to really see its current limiting capabilities. You’ll need an oscilloscope to be able to see the resistance curve as current attempts to pass through it.
Remember: an inductor doesn’t resist current throughput per se, it resists *changes* in current throughput. At constant current, the coil acts like a dead short, but an increase in current will lead to an increase in resistance (but this resistance goes down as current starts to pass through). A *decrease* in current leads to a reverse resistance, preventing the current from going down instantly (though this reverse resistance will also go down as current throughput slows down). *There’s a reason why an inductor is also called a “choke”.*
I would say too long didn't read about this was worth reading 😂
Thanks, brilliant comment.
Inductive Reactance of a coil depends on the frequency of the applied voltage as reactance is directly proportional to frequency. Inductive reactance is the property of an inductive coil that resists the change in alternating current (AC) through it and is similar to the opposition to direct current (DC) in a resistance. DC Theory and AC Theory are very different and should not be confused !
Steve, I love it! I genuinely enjoy your excitement when things work for you. Keep up the great videos mate
I think the coil in question was overheating because of unusual resistance. It was behaving like a heating element. Nice job replacing the offending coil. All good wishes!
Hi Steve, love your videos, think! Simple coils are sort of like little transformers, the windings can short, hence the overheating. The coil has wire that is insulated and that is their weakness. That insulation can become damaged due heat or just wear. Seen it many times over the years and often times it's a struggle to troubleshoot. As you think, well it has continuity it should be fine but as you saw just because it is connected does not mean it's okay. Yep, coils short just like transformers. Little Coils, Little Transformers, Not the same but are the same. Simple way of looking at it.
I love that you instantly went to the A Winner Is You silkscreen under the microscope :D
That's the second time I've seen you pull out that neat little heat meter . . . thing. Very handy for just this sort of job (and the other one I watched). I jotted down the make and model.
Bought the amp/volt meter you use because it seems more flexible than the one I have.
I think I have a little device that you attach components to and it tells you its value. So in this instance, removing one of the other coils and measuring it would be one way to go.
What I really like is your methods and thinking are in many ways like my own and because you are lets be honest enough times to make it worth while, this shows me that I am using a realistic logic path when repair mystery issues . . . most times. It is a percentage game tho, no doubt there.
Best reaction ever over an introductory screen!
Well done Steve for a minute I didn’t think that would fix it 😮who is a clever man 😊🎉
I love the "It Works!" feeling!
My guess is the dot on the inductor is purely to assist the pick and place machine orient the chip properly. Also would make visual inspection for proper installation easier; otherwise, the orientation is irrelevant (inductors aren't polarized, but they're hard to tell if you have installed them sideways or not).
Steve you got that thing man xdd Never seen a coil shorting a line. I dont even think thats what happened, but the replacement worked. I was taught that as long as a coil has continuity it is good. Today you proved them wrong. Keep it up to them 100k!
The heat indicates that there was some resistance/thin wire in the coil continuity is there but it is generating heat, similar to a light bulb.
You were taught wrong. If a coil has a shorted turn then it will be useless as an inductor
@@okaar But he measured resistance and it turned out the same as other coils.
@@goku445 the reading so low it was within error margins of the meter
Well done on the fix,
It is quite shocking that such a small component can take out an entire system
BTW, the light bar on the front of the machine does actually give you some indication of what the console is doing (and any issues it has)
When booting it will cycle through a number of colours (you can see yours doing this a few times in the video)
The Yellow flashing light it ended up on when you powered it up after replacing the component was just telling you there was no HDMI Connected,
When running correctly it should flash a few colours then end up on red,
Andy
Did you ever figure out if that coil replacement was the same as the original? I'm curious of the other two coils on the donor switch would have worked to.
You definitely the winner❤so cute
A good LCR meter can measure those. Usually these inductors have a flat enamel coated wire wrapped around the core and if the enamel breaks down from excessive heat the coil will literally be a short circuit rather than an inductor.
Stezturday? Saturday Stez? Steve Saturstix? There is a plethora of possibilities to express my enjoyment of this part of my Saturday routine.
Definitely didn't expect that outro song. 🤣 Great vid Steve.
Nice fix , lucky, good instincts . I like the thinking animation.
Liking the positively. It looks about right therefore it must be right. Buys the controller before it's fixed ! Positively for ya !
this repair going right at the end made me happy
good job
Don't censor yourself, Steve. You say amazeballs as much as you want! 🤣💜
Also, I need to pick up an IR camera. That thing is worth its weight in palladium
I can idendify with the wish to fux stuff and you have the skills! 👍 as Boltonian I'm curious to know if you are related to my dentist! You have very similar expressions.
WOW...... I think this is absolutely awesome. This is a product I think could be in the future of my channel!!!
Nice 😁 you make it look easy. Newbie question, what type of flux is that?
Great fix Steve. I've never seen one of those before evercade
Love how you’re getting there every time.
6:10 i like the 2 pieces of metal in the bottom of the casing to make it seem heavier.. an engineering must.
I love this channel!!!
he didnt say stupid game :o im gonna have to try that game out.