You've explained this technique better than anyone on the internet! Thank you so much. Now I'm wondering if after bisqued if it can be glazed with a transparent glaze and what it would look like. Have you ever done that?
Thanks. I have only used it on thrown pottery. But I guess you could do it by hand too - if you can somehow expand the clay by hand to get the crackles.
@@deMibPottery Hi again Mikkel :) I'd love to see you demonstrate how you made the vessel with the heavy slipped crackle, that looks amazing! I also love your pit firing bisqued pots videos and polishing techniques...good stuff! Cheers Anna from Australia.
Very interesting! I've heard and seen the end effect of this many times but never watched its creation. Best-guessing in my head, I was always under the presumption that this was an effect of the silicate crystallizing during cooling post firing. Seeing it now, the 'stretching' of the clay makes a lot more sense! Add: In the event this ever becomes useful, sodium silicates cure (ideally) via dehydration or the introduction of CO2 (or a combination of the two); the gaseous method when injected at a higher concentration than is in the air is more of a chemical reaction that changes the bonding strength and cure rate. I buy it for industrial applications as a crystalized powder but it's not difficult to make if you ever need it by the gallon. When included as a glaze or slip, it acts as a deflocculant and keeps clay particles in suspension when used in relatively small additions (just as an example, one recipe for slip I worked up needed just 3 grams per 4.5 kilos of dry clay and 1.89 liters water, but then again I wasn't using it as a topical application like this). As an interesting aside, potassium silicate can be made similarly to the sodium version when boiling potassium hydroxide with dry silica. I've not tested it with pottery in mind, but the theory of replacing the sodium element with potassium is that you will net a stronger medium. It's on my list to investigate in the coming months.
Wonderful lesson on the use of sodium silicate. I've seen this technique before , but your video has given me some eciting ideas that the other hadn't inspired in me, so thank you so much. One question though. What do the final pots look like? The pit fire videos we get to see what the outcome is, but not this time. Did the pots all crack in the kiln? Again thank you for some of the best ceramic videos out there.
Thank you for the demo's. Many people who try this method find that the rim goes very much off centre, making it near impossible to complete the pot successfully. How do you manage to keep the rim centred all through the expanding process? I have subscribed to your channel, I will also help you by posting your site on other platforms IF YOU DN'T MIND? Your crackled pots can be achieved in one other way if you're interested? Once you get used to it, "chattering" can achieve almost as good results. You can even colour the pot [dry it] and then start chattering. Give it a go, if you haven't already tried it ok!
Thanks a lot :-) I guess it's mostly a matter of practise - and more practise, to get it right, and going slow. I also do chattering and I love that too - but the effect is very different. You are very welcome to share the video-links :-)
Hi and thank you for this video. I am wondering, can you recycle the clay that had sodium silicate applied on? Should I take all the precautions for trimmings not to end up in the recycling bucket? I tried a few pieces but I didn't like how they turned out and now I am in doubt of what I should do with them. Thank you!
Hello, can I ask, should I be careful with sodium silicate on my kiln shelves? I made a bowl from a slab with sodium silicate so the bottom has sodium silicate- should I clean if off like I would with glaze? Thank you!
tip. Sodium silicate exists in several different states of hydration but they are all marketed under the same chemical name. If you buy it from a hardware store or builders´merchant it behaves as described in this excellent video. However, if you buy it from a pottery supplier, it will not behave in this way because it is in a different state of hydration and you will not be able to achieve these effects with it.
I can only say what I myself found. Following your excellent instructions I made a terra sigillata using this sodium silicate which I bought from a pottery supply company. It was cheap but only available in 250 g pots for 1€ 20. But it never hardened when painted onto a pot even when heated. This form of sodium silicate is in fact sodium metasilicate. The type that hardens is sodium orthosilicate, sold as a sealant for concrete. The ratio of sodium to silica is different resulting in different properties. Both are sold under the generic name of sodium silicate.I can only say what I myself found. Following your excellent instructions I made a terra sigillata using this sodium silicate which I bought from a pottery supply company. It was cheap but only available in 250 g pots for 1€ 20. But it never hardened when painted onto a pot even when heated. This form of sodium silicate is in fact sodium metasilicate. The type that hardens is sodium orthosilicate, sold as a sealant for concrete. The ratio of sodium to silica is different resulting in different properties. Both are sold under the generic name of sodium silicate.
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Beautiful I’ve not yet done any I’m here to learn from you
I’m in the uk 🇬🇧 so saving your videos as I’m learning so much thank you
Thanks 🙏
Thank you so much. An excellent tutorial. I would love to see the new vases fired though.
Thanks. Good point :-)
Love your tutorials, just bought sodium silicate for the first time, excited to try it!
Good to hear :-)
@@deMibPottery Tried it today, it worked! but I just discovered I suck at shaping with only one hand from the inside hahaha.
Thank you so much for making this video! So much information and so nicely explained. God bless you !❤🙏
Thank you
OOPS! Found your video on trimming and glazing, Now to watch them.
Hope you enjoy!
You've explained this technique better than anyone on the internet! Thank you so much. Now I'm wondering if after bisqued if it can be glazed with a transparent glaze and what it would look like. Have you ever done that?
Thanks - and yes you can. I actualy have a video where I show how I glaze them: ruclips.net/video/yglKwj6GBMI/видео.html
Thanks, you’re so generous, how can I use sodium silicate on pieces not throwed on the wheel? Gratings from México.
Thanks. I have only used it on thrown pottery. But I guess you could do it by hand too - if you can somehow expand the clay by hand to get the crackles.
Excellent! Very enjoyable, helpful and inspiring, thanks very much. Good music, too.
Thanks :-)
Great video, I appreciate your knowledge base. Cheers Anna
Thank you so much
@@deMibPottery Hi again Mikkel :) I'd love to see you demonstrate how you made the vessel with the heavy slipped crackle, that looks amazing! I also love your pit firing bisqued pots videos and polishing techniques...good stuff! Cheers Anna from Australia.
Very generous and informative.. much better explanation and technique than many out there. Thank you.
Thanks :-)
Very interesting! I've heard and seen the end effect of this many times but never watched its creation. Best-guessing in my head, I was always under the presumption that this was an effect of the silicate crystallizing during cooling post firing. Seeing it now, the 'stretching' of the clay makes a lot more sense!
Add: In the event this ever becomes useful, sodium silicates cure (ideally) via dehydration or the introduction of CO2 (or a combination of the two); the gaseous method when injected at a higher concentration than is in the air is more of a chemical reaction that changes the bonding strength and cure rate. I buy it for industrial applications as a crystalized powder but it's not difficult to make if you ever need it by the gallon. When included as a glaze or slip, it acts as a deflocculant and keeps clay particles in suspension when used in relatively small additions (just as an example, one recipe for slip I worked up needed just 3 grams per 4.5 kilos of dry clay and 1.89 liters water, but then again I wasn't using it as a topical application like this). As an interesting aside, potassium silicate can be made similarly to the sodium version when boiling potassium hydroxide with dry silica. I've not tested it with pottery in mind, but the theory of replacing the sodium element with potassium is that you will net a stronger medium. It's on my list to investigate in the coming months.
Thanks :-)
Wonderful lesson on the use of sodium silicate. I've seen this technique before , but your video has given me some eciting ideas that the other hadn't inspired in me, so thank you so much. One question though. What do the final pots look like? The pit fire videos we get to see what the outcome is, but not this time. Did the pots all crack in the kiln? Again thank you for some of the best ceramic videos out there.
Thank you so much :-) Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the excellent video! Thank you for sharing your technique.
Thanks :-)
Lovely tutorial 👌
Thanks a lot 😊
Beautiful!
Thanks :-)
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks :-)
Thank you for the demo's.
Many people who try this method find that the rim goes very much off centre, making it near impossible to complete the pot successfully.
How do you manage to keep the rim centred all through the expanding process?
I have subscribed to your channel, I will also help you by posting your site on other platforms IF YOU DN'T MIND?
Your crackled pots can be achieved in one other way if you're interested?
Once you get used to it, "chattering" can achieve almost as good results. You can even colour the pot [dry it] and then start chattering.
Give it a go, if you haven't already tried it ok!
Thanks a lot :-)
I guess it's mostly a matter of practise - and more practise, to get it right, and going slow.
I also do chattering and I love that too - but the effect is very different.
You are very welcome to share the video-links :-)
Found it! Wow! I wonder if this could be applied to sculpture pieces that are not thrown
Maybe but the crackles come because the clay is expanded after the sodium silicate is applied and dried
very nice
Thanks
I loved your explanation. Thank you so much for sharing ❤️🔥
Glad it was helpful!
This is so cool, your so good at this, I would love to learn mine just stays in a lump..
Thanks - just keep practicing and you will get it :-)
it turned out so lovely. I'm thinking about doing this... is it food safe? and can i glaze it after?
Thanks. You should only use it on the outside
Wow that is so interesting 👌
Thank you very much :-)
Hi and thank you for this video. I am wondering, can you recycle the clay that had sodium silicate applied on?
Should I take all the precautions for trimmings not to end up in the recycling bucket?
I tried a few pieces but I didn't like how they turned out and now I am in doubt of what I should do with them.
Thank you!
Thanks. No I woyld not add clay with sodium to reclaim!
Hello, can I ask, should I be careful with sodium silicate on my kiln shelves? I made a bowl from a slab with sodium silicate so the bottom has sodium silicate- should I clean if off like I would with glaze? Thank you!
I would not add it to the bottom but when its dry I don't think you can wipe it off
Is it possible to pitfire after using sodium silicate?
Yes
tip. Sodium silicate exists in several different states of hydration but they are all marketed under the same chemical name. If you buy it from a hardware store or builders´merchant it behaves as described in this excellent video. However, if you buy it from a pottery supplier, it will not behave in this way because it is in a different state of hydration and you will not be able to achieve these effects with it.
Thats not what I have seen from pther potters
@@deMibPottery
I can only say what I myself found. Following your excellent instructions I made a terra sigillata using this sodium silicate which I bought from a pottery supply company. It was cheap but only available in 250 g pots for 1€ 20. But it never hardened when painted onto a pot even when heated. This form of sodium silicate is in fact sodium metasilicate. The type that hardens is sodium orthosilicate, sold as a sealant for concrete. The ratio of sodium to silica is different resulting in different properties. Both are sold under the generic name of sodium silicate.I can only say what I myself found. Following your excellent instructions I made a terra sigillata using this sodium silicate which I bought from a pottery supply company. It was cheap but only available in 250 g pots for 1€ 20. But it never hardened when painted onto a pot even when heated. This form of sodium silicate is in fact sodium metasilicate. The type that hardens is sodium orthosilicate, sold as a sealant for concrete. The ratio of sodium to silica is different resulting in different properties. Both are sold under the generic name of sodium silicate.
Terra sigillata has nothing to do with this
What is the colours powers ?
I use stains and oxides
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