Knipex (and Wera) have been a gold standard in tool manufacture for as long as I can remember in my professional use, so around 20 years (also older RS Components tools). I know that an average home mechanic/enthusiast is going to use these sporadically but a set of Knipex pliers, wire cutters and adjustable cobra grips will last most people a life time. Add a set of hex/torx/sockets from Wera and you have dream tools that your grandchildren will inherit... I know that some Park Tools are good quality items but I think their more general purpose use tools carry a hefty "bike tax".
When I learned wheel building at United Bicycle Institute the instructor referred to the method of completely filling the hub shell with spokes before lacing as the "porcupine method". Always seemed to be faster. The other method was known as "9 at a time" since there were typically 36 spokes and was easier for learning IMO. And with that I have dated myself to the 1980s 😂
So refreshing to see the forks held upside down when trimming the steerer. I love a good bike build video, but most wind me up when i see the swarf heading towards the fork seals.
68.5 degrees is about 70 degrees sagged. Still very steep by todays standards, I cannot imagine what it was like before... more like a gravel bike with proper suspension! But the colors are epic. I have a Chris King singlespeed 135mm rear hub from >10 years ago, and I only keep the bike it is in to be able to ride it, otherwise I would be out of options today.
I love this type of stuff me. Actually finding solutions and fixing things instead of just throwing it all away & buying brand new. Even the fact of figuring out the solution to the rear hub, most shops would of opted for the easier route of trying to convince the customer to choose a different hub altogether
Also if you really wanted to, pretty sure you could opt in for a centre lock adaption kit for the front hub to make it centre lock like the rear (probably got spoken about by yourself and the customer anyway)
Great content, your tech knowledge and love of bike building really comes shining through. Your video also reflects your high standards with great lighting, audio and editing. 5 stars for you and your crew. -I once built a 9 speed road bike with the project goal that every component had to be at least 35% off the normal price or it was second hand / bike classified parts. It was an “eye opener” of compatibility problems, component family mixture, and some real outstanding parts. My bike was a mixture of Dura-ace, Ultegra, 105 and Mavic parts. The frame & fork was close out at 60% off. It was fun but I wouldn’t recommend it for the average biker. -Thanks again for this video. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Brilliant! Love the frame (and color) and same for the fork - perfect combo. The CK parts just take it over the top as does the how and why of the build process - well done.
Most fascinating about solving incompatibility issues is that there are different approaches. Always more than one way. That said, I would do it differently, obviously😁
@@Mapdec OK then! My take (no intention to call it right): - f* Microspline. Too niche, no definite benefit other than saying you have XTR all over (and I believe the cassette is SLX anyway). Garbaruk cassette then, bit of extra orange too. Yes, 50 or 52 biggest cog instead of 51, derailleur should deal with it anyway; - both hubs Centerlock, at first thought about non-boost front with adapters in case these wheels could go on a gravel eventually, but then actually found there are boost Centerlocks. And well, if gravel bike happens, it may have its own front wheel; - both headset cups EC: more orange! Less spacers! - won't upgrade to boost crankset, smaller Q-factor is beneficial for XC. Also less crosschaining in lower gears. Unless BB and frame specifically ask for boost, which is not if I got it right from your talk... Also, when building wheels, go in order radial-dish-tension-lateral. With high quality hubs and properly calculated spoke length all it takes to get 90% of the result is to count nipple turns. Lastly, I then might start a quest to minimize black color. Unfortunately with carbon rims you can't fully eradicate it.
@@Mapdec most important thing: if not for custumer absolute must, wouldn't even deal with CK. There are perfect out of the box bearings that do not need to work themself in. And offer all combinations of axle standards.
Thank goodness I'm not the only one running a narrower rear rim. My Kona Honzo CR maxes out with a 2.4 rear tyre so a 25mm internal rim works perfectly there and with a 30mm rim on the front, The reverse Mullet lives on😂
I also put a slightly longer fork on my old (approx 2004) hardtail. Slacker head angle is a revalation. Also went with more modern short stem and wide bar. It's a great way to update to more modern handling. I also have an old CK heatset (approx 2003) on my road bike. Over 35k km, no servicing, still in perfect condition.
The bike will look amazing in this color combo. And on one side it reminds me on my bike, I have Cube Nature EXC 2019. bike which has straight headtube and I wanted to fit tapered fork, so I installed EC44 bottom bearing and it made same effect as you got on this bike in video. My headset is Brand X and it is really well made.
This is absolutely class. Great upgrades well thought out on what looks to have been an already cracking bike. That upgrade kit from Shimano is a great idea too. No need for wasteful replacement where the cranks are already fine.
My hardtail is pretty much as quick (overall when you take in road and off-road sections) as my gravel bike. But it's way more comfortable over long distances. Love your bike build
Im having a hard time figuring out on CK components, my fork is boosts, and my frame is QR 135. But after this video it gives me a slight hope so that i could restore my old MTB back to life... Great content cheers✌🏾🇸🇬
Great job once again Paul and how timely. I have been looking at upgrading my old M4 stumpjumper to 1x12 di2!!!!! How right you are, as always, (I mean that in the nicest possible way) what an absolute nightmare just trying to find out what will fit and run properly. If I manage to complete it I’ll let you know.
Standards are great, until 'they' define a new standard 🤔. And I'd argue that the bike owner wanted those cool racing car Gulf Oil colours on his bike! Love the overall simplity, with the orange colour providing the essential pop.
Case in point here if you want a really nice bike speak to a mechanic and not a brand retail outfit. Good job on the compatibility issues and puzzle solving Paul, nice one 👍
It’s interesting that you are doing a Shimano Micro-Spline free hub on a Chris King 142x12 axle Road/Gravel hub. Since Shimano just introduced a 12speed HG cassette for the new 12Speed GXR. I truly admire the quality and craftsmanship of Chris King components and I’m truly impressed with how detailed you shared this build. That bike will be treasured for many more years. BTW I have the matte Grey and the Midnight ano components on my bikes. The stack spacing kit too, way overpriced but why not. I definitely see long term value with the hubs, headsets and BB’s.
The new 1x12sp GRX uses the same cassette in the video. Its hyperglide+ tooth profile, but the freehub is microspline. Needed for the the 10t cog. There are 11-50 cassettes available with 11t cog, but to really benefit from 1x that 10t is quite important
@@Mapdec ULTEGRA R8100 12-speed cassette range, 11-30 or 11-34 with both Shimano 11 and 12-speed FREEHUB bodies. Shimano did this for their 2x12 new GRX Group. Not that anyone would ever run a 2x12 or could run a 2X on a mountain bike but this allows Shimano loyalists to switch to 12 speed and use the HG free hub. I’m sure other cassettes will eventually come out with 12-Speed and HG standard
I wanted to build myself some nice dt swiss wheels. But since I got an old cx bike, i would need to pay quite a bit in adapter plates. Maybe next year I will get a modern frame and build from there. More universal standards would be nice.
Looks like a really great update and re-fresh. Now... I wonder what you could do with my Proflex 955 that I've had from new and is currently in bits in the garage....
Grate timing. I am trying to workout how I’m going to bring my old Tomac flint 29r hard tail frame back to life. I want to build it up as a drop bar mountain bike for fun. I like your idea with the headset. I was thinking about an angle adjustment one but going external and a little longer on the fork might be the way to go.
Santa Cruz frame with Chris King. Two of the very best companies in the bike industry. Shame about the center lock rotor mounts though. For wheels I find Chris King on a zipp Moto 3 front and Reserve carbon or alloy rear is the ideal combination for enduro.
By changing head angle you change seat tube angle. Will you solve it some how? Why we need boost cranks on non boost frame? No more questions 😁😁😁 Awesome part choice!
Amazing video as always, thanks for such a wicked resource! Can I ask a quick question on the new CK headset install please? I know the answer to this is most likely specific to each situation, but in general do you recommend facing the crown race seat before installing the crown race? Is it as critical a step as say BB or headtube facing? And did this particular install require it? Thanks a lot for the info, its really appreciated 🙂 Best wishes, Gavin
@@Mapdec Thanks a lot, really appreciate the expert opinion! The frame I'm working atm really benefited from some gentle BB & headtube facing as they weren't quite true with a bit of paint etc, so wil check the crown race before and see. Just taking this build slowly and trying to get things right. Thanks again 🙂
If you order direct from Chis King they will sell you the right bits of the headset without the need to buy 2, it might cost a bit more, but not twice as much.
Talking about headsets, I have a cannondale moterra lt with dreaded headset routing. It come with the acros system and I am sick of replacing the plastic compression ring! Is there any other manufacturer that offers a better solution because I cannot find much. It's an is52, bearing just sits directly into the frame, there is no press in cups as such
Radial true, I've always referred to it as "the hop" , as that's what the fella that taught me years ago called it. Great vid Paul ignore the pedants and keep up the great work
Brilliant stuff. Working on an upgrade to my Specialized Stumpjumper HT Pro 2016 right now as my wheels are non boost I need an adaptor for the new forks … what are your thoughts on adaptors or should I rebuild the wheels?
Looks magnificent except for one thing... the valves aren't quite aligned properly with the tyre logos - it was the first thing I noticed when the final build was presented. Guess that is my OCD 🙂
I'm going against the grain... 29 inch rims 🤮 😂 I miss the 26 inch days, easier to bunny hop and manual. You definitely look like you enjoyed that build! 😉
To my knowledge the kgf specification from the manufacturer is without a tire mounted. If you mount a tire first your are essentially going over the recommendation.
It doesn’t really work like that in practice. Winding a nipple up to that force would often strip it. In factories they use a machine to do this. When we hand build we would get to about 100kg with tyre off. Inflate a tyre, bring the tensions to about 110 now the nipples are easier to turn again and when you deflate you should be about bang on. It’s rare to see 120kg as recommended. It’s usually the max. The max on these crank bros are 140kg I think.
@@Mapdec maybe it's due to how I lubricate the spoke threads or the type of spoke I build with, but I can easily go over 130 accidentally (measured using a calibrated digital tension meter) as you can get from 120 to about 140 in less than a full turn. In any case wheelbuilding is always as much of an art as a science.
@@doncrescas yep. Totally. As as you know different rims can be touch or smooth on the inside too. I usually lube with a bit of chain oil. What do you use?
I'm blown away that CK doesn't allow mismatching top and bottom HS assemblies. For the prices they charge, you shouldn't have to buy two of them! That's completely absurd.
Best upgrades these days for road riders are tubular tyres and rim brake mechanical, oh no I forgot, that doesn't make the industry any money - yet...:)
That's not related to ocd , genuine ocd is crippling , it's having to flick lightswitches on & off 6 times when entering or leaving rooms etc, you're simply referring to those who like things nice and tidy and matching if possible.
Indeed, it's the same with the 'perfectionist' label, alot of folk will be mocked a perfectionist but they're not, they're more likely a rightist (they'll like things right if possible) but can let it go.
Nothing murky about upgrading a bike. Like everything else cycling on uTube or the web makes everything more complicated than it needs to be. Just a little research and time.. How to ruin the looks of your bike with awful coloured anodise components. Is this now a dream build bike?
Excellent upgrade vid. The mango color hubs is tits. No one will notice the centerlock discrepancy when it’s on the bike. BRASS nips are the way. ❤ the channel.
Guys, what options do I have out there for a rim brakes/mechanical group I wan to put on my road frame? I like SRAM and Shimano/Dura Ace usually. Thanks!
Those rims may be nice but the light grey bands on them are annoying me. Why is one right near the rear wheel valve and the front one is on the opposite side of the rim to the valve? I could forgive the wording on the tyres not being both in the same place for both wheels as that is a easy fix but those grey bands are straight from the factory. My OCD will not allow me to like those wheels. All that being said it's a nice bike with some great components.
@@Mapdec Hey it's his money, but that's a lot of expensive upgrades on an older spec frame - 2 CK hubs to make 1 that fits..!! It's not a cheap way to go!!
love this sort of stuff. breathing new life into something old. upgrade vids are just better than dream builds.
facts 👌
Kinpex pipe cutter. The engineers choice!
Hell yeah.
Knipex! Greetings from Germany.
I “hate” Knipex lol. They make incredible tools, so I don’t get to venture out and try other stuff, cause it’s usually inferior!
Knipex (and Wera) have been a gold standard in tool manufacture for as long as I can remember in my professional use, so around 20 years (also older RS Components tools). I know that an average home mechanic/enthusiast is going to use these sporadically but a set of Knipex pliers, wire cutters and adjustable cobra grips will last most people a life time. Add a set of hex/torx/sockets from Wera and you have dream tools that your grandchildren will inherit...
I know that some Park Tools are good quality items but I think their more general purpose use tools carry a hefty "bike tax".
When I learned wheel building at United Bicycle Institute the instructor referred to the method of completely filling the hub shell with spokes before lacing as the "porcupine method". Always seemed to be faster. The other method was known as "9 at a time" since there were typically 36 spokes and was easier for learning IMO. And with that I have dated myself to the 1980s 😂
So refreshing to see the forks held upside down when trimming the steerer. I love a good bike build video, but most wind me up when i see the swarf heading towards the fork seals.
Keep the fork air seals covered with a clean cloth and masking tape to hold it in position whilst cutting the steerer tube to the desired length .
Gorgeous. But it is screaming for a matte orange Wolftooth seat clamp!
@19:15…King logo properly aligned. That’s craftsmanship right there.
68.5 degrees is about 70 degrees sagged. Still very steep by todays standards, I cannot imagine what it was like before... more like a gravel bike with proper suspension! But the colors are epic. I have a Chris King singlespeed 135mm rear hub from >10 years ago, and I only keep the bike it is in to be able to ride it, otherwise I would be out of options today.
Got a chris king ceramic bb, 10 years old, lost count of mileage on various xc bikes still silky smooth, incredible engineering.
Those hub shenanigans is just nuts. I miss the good old days when all you needed to watch out for was length and width.
Awesome build. A very satisfied customer.
I love this type of stuff me. Actually finding solutions and fixing things instead of just throwing it all away & buying brand new.
Even the fact of figuring out the solution to the rear hub, most shops would of opted for the easier route of trying to convince the customer to choose a different hub altogether
Also if you really wanted to, pretty sure you could opt in for a centre lock adaption kit for the front hub to make it centre lock like the rear (probably got spoken about by yourself and the customer anyway)
So glad you enjoyed it.
Great content, your tech knowledge and love of bike building really comes shining through. Your video also reflects your high standards with great lighting, audio and editing. 5 stars for you and your crew.
-I once built a 9 speed road bike with the project goal that every component had to be at least 35% off the normal price or it was second hand / bike classified parts. It was an “eye opener” of compatibility problems, component family mixture, and some real outstanding parts. My bike was a mixture of Dura-ace, Ultegra, 105 and Mavic parts. The frame & fork was close out at 60% off. It was fun but I wouldn’t recommend it for the average biker.
-Thanks again for this video. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks Mike.
Brilliant! Love the frame (and color) and same for the fork - perfect combo. The CK parts just take it over the top as does the how and why of the build process - well done.
Glad you like it!
Most fascinating about solving incompatibility issues is that there are different approaches. Always more than one way. That said, I would do it differently, obviously😁
go for it... tell me more
@@Mapdec OK then! My take (no intention to call it right):
- f* Microspline. Too niche, no definite benefit other than saying you have XTR all over (and I believe the cassette is SLX anyway). Garbaruk cassette then, bit of extra orange too. Yes, 50 or 52 biggest cog instead of 51, derailleur should deal with it anyway;
- both hubs Centerlock, at first thought about non-boost front with adapters in case these wheels could go on a gravel eventually, but then actually found there are boost Centerlocks. And well, if gravel bike happens, it may have its own front wheel;
- both headset cups EC: more orange! Less spacers!
- won't upgrade to boost crankset, smaller Q-factor is beneficial for XC. Also less crosschaining in lower gears. Unless BB and frame specifically ask for boost, which is not if I got it right from your talk...
Also, when building wheels, go in order radial-dish-tension-lateral. With high quality hubs and properly calculated spoke length all it takes to get 90% of the result is to count nipple turns.
Lastly, I then might start a quest to minimize black color. Unfortunately with carbon rims you can't fully eradicate it.
@@Mapdec most important thing: if not for custumer absolute must, wouldn't even deal with CK. There are perfect out of the box bearings that do not need to work themself in. And offer all combinations of axle standards.
@@feedbackzaloop that’s all valid and was part of our chats.
@@Mapdec communication is the key☝
Thank goodness I'm not the only one running a narrower rear rim. My Kona Honzo CR maxes out with a 2.4 rear tyre so a 25mm internal rim works perfectly there and with a 30mm rim on the front, The reverse Mullet lives on😂
I also put a slightly longer fork on my old (approx 2004) hardtail. Slacker head angle is a revalation. Also went with more modern short stem and wide bar. It's a great way to update to more modern handling.
I also have an old CK heatset (approx 2003) on my road bike. Over 35k km, no servicing, still in perfect condition.
Nice.
The bike will look amazing in this color combo. And on one side it reminds me on my bike, I have Cube Nature EXC 2019. bike which has straight headtube and I wanted to fit tapered fork, so I installed EC44 bottom bearing and it made same effect as you got on this bike in video. My headset is Brand X and it is really well made.
1:30 Now, that's a clever trick! 👌
This is absolutely class. Great upgrades well thought out on what looks to have been an already cracking bike. That upgrade kit from Shimano is a great idea too. No need for wasteful replacement where the cranks are already fine.
My hardtail is pretty much as quick (overall when you take in road and off-road sections) as my gravel bike. But it's way more comfortable over long distances. Love your bike build
Im having a hard time figuring out on CK components, my fork is boosts, and my frame is QR 135. But after this video it gives me a slight hope so that i could restore my old MTB back to life... Great content cheers✌🏾🇸🇬
Yeah. You might need to do some adapting of the standard options. Speak to a dealer and they should take care of it all.
centerlock rear and 6 bolt on the front what a madman 🤯
I know right
Love this kind of video, much better than the usual unobtainable bike for most of the viewers watching your channel.
Glad you enjoy it!
Love all the CK components!
Great upgraded build and great video to present it.
Also, loving the blue and orange! I'd have had to get an orange seat clamp and chain ring bolts though
Looks like that rear tire is practically kissing the seat tube! Sweet bike😎
Great upgrade love the love colours 😊
Angus seems like a proper man! You’d like him by your side during a drunken pub brawl!
He’s more of a lost in a frozen blizzard type of guy. 😂
@@Mapdec 🤣🤣🤣
I did a dream build years ago with a kestrel monocoque frame. Those small details can be challenging
the bike came out beautifull
Great job once again Paul and how timely. I have been looking at upgrading my old M4 stumpjumper to 1x12 di2!!!!!
How right you are, as always, (I mean that in the nicest possible way) what an absolute nightmare just trying to find out what will fit and run properly.
If I manage to complete it I’ll let you know.
Good luck. I hope this helped.
bike parts compatibility might as well be a college degree 😵
Standards are great, until 'they' define a new standard 🤔. And I'd argue that the bike owner wanted those cool racing car Gulf Oil colours on his bike! Love the overall simplity, with the orange colour providing the essential pop.
Case in point here if you want a really nice bike speak to a mechanic and not a brand retail outfit. Good job on the compatibility issues and puzzle solving Paul, nice one 👍
Thank you Kevin.
It’s interesting that you are doing a Shimano Micro-Spline free hub on a Chris King 142x12 axle Road/Gravel hub. Since Shimano just introduced a 12speed HG cassette for the new 12Speed GXR. I truly admire the quality and craftsmanship of Chris King components and I’m truly impressed with how detailed you shared this build. That bike will be treasured for many more years. BTW I have the matte Grey and the Midnight ano components on my bikes. The stack spacing kit too, way overpriced but why not. I definitely see long term value with the hubs, headsets and BB’s.
The new 1x12sp GRX uses the same cassette in the video. Its hyperglide+ tooth profile, but the freehub is microspline. Needed for the the 10t cog. There are 11-50 cassettes available with 11t cog, but to really benefit from 1x that 10t is quite important
@@Mapdec ULTEGRA R8100 12-speed cassette range, 11-30 or 11-34 with both Shimano 11 and 12-speed FREEHUB bodies. Shimano did this for their 2x12 new GRX Group. Not that anyone would ever run a 2x12 or could run a 2X on a mountain bike but this allows Shimano loyalists to switch to 12 speed and use the HG free hub. I’m sure other cassettes will eventually come out with 12-Speed and HG standard
great bike and build, looks like a lot of fun for a fast ride
I wanted to build myself some nice dt swiss wheels. But since I got an old cx bike, i would need to pay quite a bit in adapter plates. Maybe next year I will get a modern frame and build from there. More universal standards would be nice.
Looks like a really great update and re-fresh. Now... I wonder what you could do with my Proflex 955 that I've had from new and is currently in bits in the garage....
A kashima coated dropper would have looked great on this build
Agreed, a FOX Transfer SL would look cool. Pricey though
A master at work. Stunning looking upgrades
Thank you kindly
I've had my 7075 aluminum Royal Navy blue Chris King headset since 2011🤘🤘
nice
Epic build!
Great video Paul. I think what I would do differently is to take it for a sneaky ride before I hand it back 😝
I was so tempted. Angus turned up early 😂
LOOKS VERY GOOD 👍
Thank you 😋
Loved this. Thanks.
Grate timing. I am trying to workout how I’m going to bring my old Tomac flint 29r hard tail frame back to life. I want to build it up as a drop bar mountain bike for fun. I like your idea with the headset. I was thinking about an angle adjustment one but going external and a little longer on the fork might be the way to go.
Another read show, cheers
Santa Cruz frame with Chris King. Two of the very best companies in the bike industry. Shame about the center lock rotor mounts though.
For wheels I find Chris King on a zipp Moto 3 front and Reserve carbon or alloy rear is the ideal combination for enduro.
Thanks for the video.
Looks like your weight loss is going to plan.
👍👍👍
76.6k. Almost there. Thank you
6-bolt and centrelock on the same bike? My teeth are already itchin' 🤣
Lovely bike though and a great build 👍
Thanks 👍
I guess from watching, that you do Shraner's method of lacing?
Yeah. It’s ingrained in my brain.
By changing head angle you change seat tube angle. Will you solve it some how?
Why we need boost cranks on non boost frame?
No more questions 😁😁😁
Awesome part choice!
Can fit a slackerizer that would slacken the head angle and possibly steepen the seat angle
Yes. Move saddle forward a bit. 🤏
Amazing video as always, thanks for such a wicked resource! Can I ask a quick question on the new CK headset install please?
I know the answer to this is most likely specific to each situation, but in general do you recommend facing the crown race seat before installing the crown race? Is it as critical a step as say BB or headtube facing? And did this particular install require it?
Thanks a lot for the info, its really appreciated 🙂
Best wishes, Gavin
If the crown race is rough, pitted from rust, painted over or has machining burrs. It will need facing off.
@@Mapdec Thanks a lot, really appreciate the expert opinion! The frame I'm working atm really benefited from some gentle BB & headtube facing as they weren't quite true with a bit of paint etc, so wil check the crown race before and see. Just taking this build slowly and trying to get things right. Thanks again 🙂
If you order direct from Chis King they will sell you the right bits of the headset without the need to buy 2, it might cost a bit more, but not twice as much.
Good to know. We go through a UK distributor.
Talking about headsets, I have a cannondale moterra lt with dreaded headset routing. It come with the acros system and I am sick of replacing the plastic compression ring! Is there any other manufacturer that offers a better solution because I cannot find much. It's an is52, bearing just sits directly into the frame, there is no press in cups as such
Radial true, I've always referred to it as "the hop" , as that's what the fella that taught me years ago called it. Great vid Paul ignore the pedants and keep up the great work
Great work. Do hope make an orange rotor?
They do, my components are all orange, mixture of Hope and Burgtec
Brilliant stuff. Working on an upgrade to my Specialized Stumpjumper HT Pro 2016 right now as my wheels are non boost I need an adaptor for the new forks … what are your thoughts on adaptors or should I rebuild the wheels?
Proper adaptors are ok. But the loose ones you see on eBay are nasty.
@@Mapdecwhat is a recommended adaptor I have 6 bolt rotors and am looking at a rockshock sid charger
@@ilovekale try problemsolvers or hope ones
Does Chris King use 7075 aluminum for his hubs and bottom brackets?
umm. I am not sure on this one.
@@Mapdec steel as far as i no
Perfect!!!
quick question, would a center lock to 6 bolt adapter make this build abit less ocd haha
Oh. Ask the audience. 😱
Wow stunning bike. Bet the parts and putting that together cost a pretty penny!
Not as much as a new bike.
@@Mapdec more than I can afford then lol
Loved the - how do we make this work? story
Looks magnificent except for one thing... the valves aren't quite aligned properly with the tyre logos - it was the first thing I noticed when the final build was presented. Guess that is my OCD 🙂
You didn’t notice the top cap? Damm videographer did the beauty shots before the PDI while I was on lunch 😂.
Top !👌👌👌
Interested to know the cost of these upgrades...
It won’t take long to google.
@@Mapdec prices should vary by region and direct vs from destributor.
What are the quick releases? Are they the dtswiss
Fox and Santa Cruz branded.
Very McLaren Gulf 👍
Is it really a standard if it changes every quarter?😅
Make sure you ream, face and retap everything as usual 😅😅😅
Always. Nothing leaves here short of perfect.
I have a v brake on the bike and disk on the front, as long as it stops you.
Folks, can someone help me...what's being smacked into the steerer tube at 14:27 and 15:07 ? Is it steerer tube support?
Crown race and star nut.
I'm going against the grain... 29 inch rims 🤮 😂 I miss the 26 inch days, easier to bunny hop and manual. You definitely look like you enjoyed that build! 😉
Nice build! Matching Mango bar ends would be awesome!
Cool idea!
really nice build, but then the valves and tires arent aligned...
Orange(matching of course) Santa Cruz logo stickers for the frame. And a orange chain guide.
To my knowledge the kgf specification from the manufacturer is without a tire mounted. If you mount a tire first your are essentially going over the recommendation.
It doesn’t really work like that in practice. Winding a nipple up to that force would often strip it. In factories they use a machine to do this. When we hand build we would get to about 100kg with tyre off. Inflate a tyre, bring the tensions to about 110 now the nipples are easier to turn again and when you deflate you should be about bang on. It’s rare to see 120kg as recommended. It’s usually the max. The max on these crank bros are 140kg I think.
@@Mapdec maybe it's due to how I lubricate the spoke threads or the type of spoke I build with, but I can easily go over 130 accidentally (measured using a calibrated digital tension meter) as you can get from 120 to about 140 in less than a full turn. In any case wheelbuilding is always as much of an art as a science.
@@doncrescas yep. Totally. As as you know different rims can be touch or smooth on the inside too. I usually lube with a bit of chain oil. What do you use?
@@Mapdec after the initial loose lacing I feed a tiny drop of triflow into the back if the nipple which works it's way down.
How much do you charge for this job aproximitly? Not for parts, just the labour?
£70 for a wheel build. The rest of the work was on an hourly rate I think. A full strip down and rebuild with us is £160.
@@Mapdec Thank you for a fast an to the point answer :)
Are they not Peaty's valves?
CK colab
The different shades of orange 😮 between fork and Chris king mango
I love the color combination. I would’ve added orange grips and orange pedals. I think that would’ve really popped the bike very nicely.
boost crank on a non-boost frame?
Probabaly XTR. It had a good preload system different to usual Shimano and they are still durable enough for MTB.
No, those are the m8000 series non-boost cranks
@@Dwaynefreeman m8000 exists in both boost and non-boost. There is even non-boost triple, but not this time though
I'm blown away that CK doesn't allow mismatching top and bottom HS assemblies. For the prices they charge, you shouldn't have to buy two of them! That's completely absurd.
Yeah. Not as easy as Hope pick and mix.
CK just came out with a pick and mix last week!
And cheaper than their usual option!
+50% of the price for PNP to the UK. 😬
YES…brass nipples every time. Have rebuilt quite a few Carbon wheels for folks,due to alloy nipples failing….
Best upgrades these days for road riders are tubular tyres and rim brake mechanical, oh no I forgot, that doesn't make the industry any money - yet...:)
Colnago found a way to make money from the rim renaissance
There peatys tubeless valve!
CK colab.
I think CK do the anodising so the colours match
That's not related to ocd , genuine ocd is crippling , it's having to flick lightswitches on & off 6 times when entering or leaving rooms etc, you're simply referring to those who like things nice and tidy and matching if possible.
Indeed, it's the same with the 'perfectionist' label, alot of folk will be mocked a perfectionist but they're not, they're more likely a rightist (they'll like things right if possible) but can let it go.
Hopefully the seat angle won't feel like he's riding a wheelie with the over fork and external headset cup 🥴
Reports are good so far. It was very steep to begin with.
Whose testicals were sacrificed for the axle kit.
The distributor swap them out.
Nothing murky about upgrading a bike. Like everything else cycling on uTube or the web makes everything more complicated than it needs to be. Just a little research and time.. How to ruin the looks of your bike with awful coloured anodise components. Is this now a dream build bike?
Nah. The orange scheme is Sic. Works so well with Teal.
Excellent upgrade vid. The mango color hubs is tits. No one will notice the centerlock discrepancy when it’s on the bike. BRASS nips are the way.
❤ the channel.
Guys, what options do I have out there for a rim brakes/mechanical group I wan to put on my road frame? I like SRAM and Shimano/Dura Ace usually. Thanks!
Campg Chorus
@@Mapdec any other option that is not campy? Thanks
@@Pertemba40 only retro stuff really.
Those rims may be nice but the light grey bands on them are annoying me. Why is one right near the rear wheel valve and the front one is on the opposite side of the rim to the valve? I could forgive the wording on the tyres not being both in the same place for both wheels as that is a easy fix but those grey bands are straight from the factory. My OCD will not allow me to like those wheels. All that being said it's a nice bike with some great components.
Somebody has more money than sense!!! 🤣😂
Unhelpful… what would you do?
@@Mapdec Hey it's his money, but that's a lot of expensive upgrades on an older spec frame - 2 CK hubs to make 1 that fits..!! It's not a cheap way to go!!
Thats a beauty. Top job