Great idea buddy ,not only does it save you money ,which is a plus ! it also gives you another nice project and sense of accomplishment ,thanks for showing us , ive liked and subd you .Greetings from Wales UK ,Ant .
I made one similar out of two pieces of MDF glued together. One side was a concave side for the outside of the gouges and the other was a convex side for the inside of the gouges. You have to strop both sides sometimes.
Great video. I have also seen these where instead of a valley the sharpening point is a hill for the inside of the tool and was wondering if you made those too and and if a video on a how to on a hill block for gouges could be made as well
Great project! I may have to make one of those. What kind of glue did you use to stick the leather to the wood? Do you use honing compound/rouge with it, or just bare leather?
As mentioned by others thank you for this great video. How did you get your block to stay in place? What kind of padding is that under the block that grips it so well? Also can you advise on where I could order? Cheers!
Q: Isnt the sweep of the 7L the same as a straight 7? do I need both troughs? As I understand the rough vs smooth up debate, the reason for smooth up is that it *may* result in less dubbing of the edge.
Get and use a bench hook. In 40 yrs of woodworking, the absolute worst accident was because I tried to hold my work and the chisel went through into my hand.
Very nice! I'll search in your videos looking for the same, but for de inside of the gouges. Greetings!
Very cool idea.
I’m starting on mine immediately.
Thank you so much. 👍
Happy carving and be safe.
Great idea buddy ,not only does it save you money ,which is a plus ! it also gives you another nice project and sense of accomplishment ,thanks for showing us , ive liked and subd you .Greetings from Wales UK ,Ant .
I made one similar out of two pieces of MDF glued together. One side was a concave side for the outside of the gouges and the other was a convex side for the inside of the gouges. You have to strop both sides sometimes.
Great tutorials, Matt. Thanks!
Very helpful. Great.
Great video. I have also seen these where instead of a valley the sharpening point is a hill for the inside of the tool and was wondering if you made those too and and if a video on a how to on a hill block for gouges could be made as well
Hey Jack, we'll put it in the hopper! For now, you can get by with just a piece of leather that you can bend to fit the inside of your bevel
Thanks ! 🤗
Great project! I may have to make one of those.
What kind of glue did you use to stick the leather to the wood?
Do you use honing compound/rouge with it, or just bare leather?
Randy used basic wood glue. He said Titebond "Red". (Sorry for the late reply)
As mentioned by others thank you for this great video. How did you get your block to stay in place? What kind of padding is that under the block that grips it so well? Also can you advise on where I could order? Cheers!
Use a bench hook- much better
What type of wood did you use?
Q:
Isnt the sweep of the 7L the same as a straight 7? do I need both troughs?
As I understand the rough vs smooth up debate, the reason for smooth up is that it *may* result in less dubbing of the edge.
Проблема в полировке внутри стомесок, особенно уголка☝️
Get and use a bench hook. In 40 yrs of woodworking, the absolute worst accident was because I tried to hold my work and the chisel went through into my hand.