Correct but with the transmission out the engine rocks forward just enough so you still can’t them in. Sorry don’t think I mentioned that the trans was out.
today did see meeting point 2 stairs and a small cinema and walked around for leftover garbage (Variety, the Children's Charity) Monday its extra room all vacuum cleaning even do this a video am happy i can sit watch some else do the job ^ _ ^ sorry later chad.
Chad thumbs up for you being a flatlander, but I don’t think this head-gasket would hold up in the mountains especially towing . You skipped piston projections measurements and carefully concealed the 120 max foot pounds in the Xotic instructions in the video, it’s definitely not 130 and you didn’t take time to calibrate or double check the torque wrench. Again being a flatlander you’ll be ok. I notice you ditched your initial Hamilton fire ring gasket for the Haisley Machine Cummins, but Haisley does sandblast the fire rings welds, so I really doubt you’ll see a weld. You skipped chasing and cleaning the threads with a rethread tap. Also the ARP graphite torquing grease that goes on the head stud washers. You still have to do 1-2 hot re-torques and relash the valves. The 125 foot pound head studs were meant for OEM boost under 30 psi, non fire rings. You have fire rings which need to be crushed and your boost is 48 psi, so I’m not too confident this head will not lift and blow the head gasket, if it does you’re in pretty good shape, if nothing gets damaged all you’ll need is a set of 625 head studs and a fresh head gasket, just don’t go towing weight up any long steep hills and you should be fine . Glad to see you got it all back together but there’s still quite a bit to really get it buttoned up with no leaks, the vacuum pump can be an issue.
These are glorified tractor engines, no need to go through all you describe especially for a mild build. And saying the 125 ft/lb studs are only good for a stock charger at 30 psi is not true. My stock bolts and gasket held up for 45k miles of the 166k that's on my 12v with 17 degrees of timing and a s363 63/68 .85 that saw 50psi regularly. And I dont think we have a flat piece of road around my area. under 550 on a single charger and these studs should be just fine. Probably come from the same factory as the ARP stuff does.
There’s a hole in the upper firewall and you can slip each bolt through to start it without having to jack engine up 👍🏻👍🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Correct but with the transmission out the engine rocks forward just enough so you still can’t them in. Sorry don’t think I mentioned that the trans was out.
How are thing holding up for you? I’m thinking about pulling the trigger on a set of these.
Thanks for the video!
Haven’t had any issues with their standard studs. But I will tell you that Thoroughbred diesel has come out with their own as well.
@@ChadMyers73 awesome, I’ll check them out, thanks!
today did see meeting point 2 stairs and a small cinema and walked around for leftover garbage (Variety, the Children's Charity)
Monday its extra room all vacuum cleaning even do this a video am happy i can sit watch some else do the job ^ _ ^ sorry later chad.
👍🏻
How did are these holding up?
Me and a couple of other guys have had no issues with their standard studs.
I don’t think you want to do the valve lash while the motor is hot the lash is for the rods expansion
Just a hot re torque on the head studs
I'm interested in long term results on these studs
A friend of mine has been running them for about 6 mts
@@ChadMyers73 I wanna do head studs on my 6.7 but am building on a budget, so if I can just install a good set first I'd be happy.
You can’t beat their price and warranty
@@ChadMyers73how are they holding up chad?
Are these Chinese head studs?
No Canada
Canada
Chad thumbs up for you being a flatlander, but I don’t think this head-gasket would hold up in the mountains especially towing . You skipped piston projections measurements and carefully concealed the 120 max foot pounds in the Xotic instructions in the video, it’s definitely not 130 and you didn’t take time to calibrate or double check the torque wrench. Again being a flatlander you’ll be ok. I notice you ditched your initial Hamilton fire ring gasket for the Haisley Machine Cummins, but Haisley does sandblast the fire rings welds, so I really doubt you’ll see a weld. You skipped chasing and cleaning the threads with a rethread tap. Also the ARP graphite torquing grease that goes on the head stud washers. You still have to do 1-2 hot re-torques and relash the valves. The 125 foot pound head studs were meant for OEM boost under 30 psi, non fire rings. You have fire rings which need to be crushed and your boost is 48 psi, so I’m not too confident this head will not lift and blow the head gasket, if it does you’re in pretty good shape, if nothing gets damaged all you’ll need is a set of 625 head studs and a fresh head gasket, just don’t go towing weight up any long steep hills and you should be fine . Glad to see you got it all back together but there’s still quite a bit to really get it buttoned up with no leaks, the vacuum pump can be an issue.
Hamilton had a recall on their head gasket and Haisleys directions clearly state that their torque requirements are 130# for 12mm head studs.
Piston protrusion is not a factor as long as you have the correct valve recession and use a factory thickness gasket
These are glorified tractor engines, no need to go through all you describe especially for a mild build. And saying the 125 ft/lb studs are only good for a stock charger at 30 psi is not true. My stock bolts and gasket held up for 45k miles of the 166k that's on my 12v with 17 degrees of timing and a s363 63/68 .85 that saw 50psi regularly. And I dont think we have a flat piece of road around my area. under 550 on a single charger and these studs should be just fine. Probably come from the same factory as the ARP stuff does.