@@SubaruONLY im having trouble getting my heads to sit snug on the head studs. I have a new short block and I believe I’m missing whatever the little things you slid the head gasket onto. Can you help me identify what those are called so I can see about ordering some?
Great tutorial Luke. This is the best type of instruction for D.I.Y's , like myself, who can't get their heads around written instructions. Priced these in Australia @ $399.00 (280.096USD) they know how to get at us.
Head bolts are not stretch bolts. They are torque + degree to compensate for factors such as friction from the threads. But the bolt torque will be in a specified range once tightened down. The FSM does not state to replace the head bolts after use. Replace them if they have corroded or if it is for peace of mind. Hope this helps
You should measure your head bolts every time you do a gasket change. The stock ones technically I would say in a 1997 ej20k head motor with 2.5 block and 18 psi all day just fine on stock head bolts. I swapped to an 06 usdm 2.5 sti and religiously kept my stock head bolts as I thought they were enough as I measure them every time I changed gaskets and they were the same. 18 psi stretched every head bolt on the 1 and 3 side, and the middle ones on the 2 and 4 side were also stretched not as much. This was with a 8.9:1 compression 100mm forged piston motor 400 wheel torque. These studs were installed with Rcm folded stopper head gaskets from flat irons tuning. Torqued the heads to the arp spec with the nasioc recommendation of bumping the center studs by 5 ft lbs making the final torque step to 95ft lbs on the center 2 studs and 90ftlbs on the outer 4 studs and she holds the 400 wheel torque tune now. And we beat on the car. The oem ones won’t hold high boost for long.
You are going a good job with the motor and the videos. I would even let you spanner on my car!.PS that`s a digital caliper much like a vernier caliper.
I noticed that you were following the instruction on the torque sequence. Did you notice that you did it completely the opposite from the picture. Just another detailed eye catcher.
I noticed it as well. Honestly not a huge deal the main thing is to make sure you start in the middle and use that pattern to tighten down. I've done it with normal head bolts as well
Studies have shown that over tightening the head studs can cause block failure so like he said literally just as they touch down or bottom out and that’s it. It’s like 1 inch pound of torque maybe.
Great video, but I do have a question. ARPs website says the following: Do the threads of the bolts going into the block need lube? Yes. On blind holes use a small amount of ARP Ultra-Torque lube on those threads. If the studs protrude into a water jacket, you will need to clean the threads in the block to remove all coolant and oil residue. Apply a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer or a high temperature thread sealer. Do not apply ARP Ultra-Torque if you are using a thread sealer. I noticed you didn't do this. Any issues since?
@@SubaruONLY Asked my mechanic too who I go to for things I can't do or can't be bothered to do, and he agreed with your method so that will do for me :)
@@OKBJay Subarus do not have coolant going through there head bolt holes so no need for sealant now and old school Chevy 350 engine yes they do so you need a sealant just so you know
I have not. But to be honest, when installing high quality aftermarket parts like these ARP studs, I typically defer to the aftermarket manufacture, as they often do the most R&D with those parts and they should have the best advice for long-term reliable usage. Cheers!
Not bashing you specifically, but tired of hearing the old "don't reuse your head bolts" spiel. Say it with me now: Subaru head bolts are N O T torque to yield. Anyone who says otherwise is simply spreading misinformation. There's no reason you can't re-use them unless they're obviously visually damaged. Nowhere in the FSM will it tell you that head bolt replacement is necessary. That being said, ARP studs are great for turbo motors. For NA I would always re-use. Carry on!
Hey nice video just quick question do you have to remove the camshaft and valves to do a headgasket job? Or can I take the head as is to the machine shop?
Yes, you need to remove the cams to access the head bolts. The valves and buckets stay in the head, Be careful not to drop any of the buckets because they are specific to each valve.
I been watching all your videos learning so much! I just have a couple questions? I plan on getting a ej25 block and use my ej20 heads. Do I now have to get Sti parts instead of wrx parts for the engine overhaul? or just treat it like it’s all ej20 cuz the only difference would be internals really right?
Dude! I was wondering who would catch that. lol. They got moved and don’t ask me why - think the machine shop reassembled incorrectly, so I had to pause measure all my gaps and then put them back in the right place and continue. I decided not to mention it in the video, as it was a bit of a tangent. I figured someone with a detailed eye would catch that - nice man!
@@SubaruONLY How do you go about measuring gaps?? I took my heads out this weekend but kept the engine in the engine bay and had a couple fall out, paranoid that they weren't put back in the right placement now :(
I have the engine out of the car and it has excellent compression but I would like to install head studs as insurance for when I increase boost. It is possible to install studs into an EJ255 by swapping out the bolts one at a time without disturbing the head gasket, isn't it?
Hey Luke, I bought ARP bolts for my EJ251 sohc. I just installed them and see they’re too short? By about 10mm . Do you know if there are ARP head bolts for sohc 2.5? They go in cause they’re 11mm but just too short?😕
Dont get me wrong i am far from being rich but i hate cheaping out when it comes to replacing things while i have an engine torn down already. Here in nj you'll see a difference of around $50-$70 between stock bolts and arp's.
i ordered apr head studs for my 2007 sti , I'm getting a lot of different input on them, some say After 1000 miles they should be retorqued is this true? some say follow the Subaru process even using APR studs. coming from a honda background wed just follow the instructions Arp Provided with the product and call it a day What do you think ??
I figured out my first problem with rebuilding the engine and putting the clutch on incorrectly, now the issue that I'm having is the retainer and retaining ring for the pressure plate has forced its way through the pressure plate. thinking now I have to just order a completely new clutch kit and do it all over again. is that something you would recommend or bend the retainer like some did on different forums? Also great video's, keep up the good work.
Thank you very much for showing the measuring of stud protrusion above the nut clamping surface, this kind of detail is very helpful. Referenced point in video: ruclips.net/video/O5sDD4O0Rxw/видео.html
Nice man. I don’t know off hand but ARP guys are super open and willing to take calls about things like this. They really are the only ones who know first hand R&D info.
Dude - I know. Had to focus on another big project. But also knee deep in a very cool Subaru coolant DiY upgrade! I’ll be filming the first video this weekend for sure - stay tuned!!! 👊
Thanks for asking. All good. Had to build a guest house for family and it’s been a huge undertaking. Also working on some Subaru stuff in the down time - stay tuned for some in-depth videos and discussions on the “reverse” coolant mod and why cyl #4 produces more heat than the other three cyl - very interesting discussion coming on this one. Hope you find it interesting. Cheers and thanks for checking in man!!! 👊👊👊
All I can say is WOW!!! two big mistakes #1 that mating surface of the block is by far not clean enough. it should be exactly like what you see win you get the heads back from the machine shop and that's by far close to it. #2 win you torque any of your head bolts and or head stud nuts you should never allow your torque wrench to ratchet at all. for two reasons so you can get a visual at how many degrees your torque wrench turns each time they all should be pretty much the same also so your torque wrench can get the proper torque you don't get the same exact torque. I am sorry to say I've been working on Subarus for 10 + years now so I can tell you a thing or two about what not to do as I've done it and learned from my mistakes just my two cents
This guy FINALLY shuts the fuck up and actually gets to work right around @9:54
Literally days away from doing this exact job with the same studs and gaskets, thanks for the how to vid - good content
Watching this gem again before installing my studs I picked up. Thank you for the detailed information
Thanks man!
@@SubaruONLY im having trouble getting my heads to sit snug on the head studs. I have a new short block and I believe I’m missing whatever the little things you slid the head gasket onto. Can you help me identify what those are called so I can see about ordering some?
MrSubaru1387 has a great video dispelling any confusion about reusing Subaru head bolts. Love your videos, keep up the good work!
I seen it and I agree. It’s a good one and he’s awesome!!! 👍
Very useful, I'm going to use this guide to help install some RCM superstuds in my EJ22E!
Nice. Should be the exact same procedure! 👍
Good info Luke. Some stuff in there I hadn't thought about before. About to do the same job in a few months on my build.
🤙 thanks man!
Great tutorial Luke. This is the best type of instruction for D.I.Y's , like myself, who can't get their heads around written instructions. Priced these in Australia @ $399.00 (280.096USD) they know how to get at us.
I'm from Brisbane. Yeah, some of that is our relatively weak currency, but not all of it. For some reason we still get ripped off.
Thanks man! Cheers! 🤙
They are the ARP2000 studs @ AUD $400, you should also price the ARP625+, these are around AUD1K
Good stuff man. I re used my stock bolts they worked just fine so far. But next time i will go with ARP too. 👌
👊
Good vid. Not interested in blown head gaskets again, will replace head bolts lol
Head bolts are not stretch bolts. They are torque + degree to compensate for factors such as friction from the threads. But the bolt torque will be in a specified range once tightened down. The FSM does not state to replace the head bolts after use. Replace them if they have corroded or if it is for peace of mind. Hope this helps
Amazing video, will use as reference when I install my head's later today. Do you have videos covering the cam installation as well?
You should measure your head bolts every time you do a gasket change. The stock ones technically I would say in a 1997 ej20k head motor with 2.5 block and 18 psi all day just fine on stock head bolts. I swapped to an 06 usdm 2.5 sti and religiously kept my stock head bolts as I thought they were enough as I measure them every time I changed gaskets and they were the same. 18 psi stretched every head bolt on the 1 and 3 side, and the middle ones on the 2 and 4 side were also stretched not as much. This was with a 8.9:1 compression 100mm forged piston motor 400 wheel torque. These studs were installed with Rcm folded stopper head gaskets from flat irons tuning. Torqued the heads to the arp spec with the nasioc recommendation of bumping the center studs by 5 ft lbs making the final torque step to 95ft lbs on the center 2 studs and 90ftlbs on the outer 4 studs and she holds the 400 wheel torque tune now. And we beat on the car. The oem ones won’t hold high boost for long.
You are going a good job with the motor and the videos. I would even let you spanner on my car!.PS that`s a digital caliper much like a vernier caliper.
Nice. Thanks buddy! I’ll keep them coming. And things are getting more exciting year to year. Got some big Motorsport plans for this car.
I noticed that you were following the instruction on the torque sequence. Did you notice that you did it completely the opposite from the picture. Just another detailed eye catcher.
I noticed it as well. Honestly not a huge deal the main thing is to make sure you start in the middle and use that pattern to tighten down. I've done it with normal head bolts as well
Studies have shown that over tightening the head studs can cause block failure so like he said literally just as they touch down or bottom out and that’s it. It’s like 1 inch pound of torque maybe.
Your video helped me a lot thanks
Hi bud jst watched ur video with arp bolts im about to do my gaskets on EJ257 STI 2010 HATCH. do you know the torque settings 🤔
Great video, but I do have a question. ARPs website says the following:
Do the threads of the bolts going into the block need lube?
Yes. On blind holes use a small amount of ARP Ultra-Torque lube on those threads. If the studs protrude into a water jacket, you will need to clean the threads in the block to remove all coolant and oil residue. Apply a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer or a high temperature thread sealer. Do not apply ARP Ultra-Torque if you are using a thread sealer.
I noticed you didn't do this. Any issues since?
No issues so far.
@@SubaruONLY Asked my mechanic too who I go to for things I can't do or can't be bothered to do, and he agreed with your method so that will do for me :)
Awesome! Good luck 👍
@@OKBJay Subarus do not have coolant going through there head bolt holes so no need for sealant now and old school Chevy 350 engine yes they do so you need a sealant just so you know
is it possible to check the head studs if they are aftermarket without removing the engine???
Would there be any benefit to studding the block halves- assuming that is even a thing...
Awesome very informative. Keep up the work!
Thanks - Will do. Lots more coming and it’ll only get better. Got some big plans!
well done great video and thank you sir = i have a gt turbo 2001 forester .
Right on!
Luke come back with more videosss
I’ve herd people using Subaru’s method of tightening down the headstuds for ARP bolts. Any thought or experience with that?
I have not. But to be honest, when installing high quality aftermarket parts like these ARP studs, I typically defer to the aftermarket manufacture, as they often do the most R&D with those parts and they should have the best advice for long-term reliable usage. Cheers!
Do you remember where you got those headstuds for $180? Everywhere I see them online is like $220 at least
Not sure. Might just be pre pandemic prices!!!
@@SubaruONLY thanks for eventually responding, found a set off Autohance for $200
Not bashing you specifically, but tired of hearing the old "don't reuse your head bolts" spiel. Say it with me now: Subaru head bolts are N O T torque to yield. Anyone who says otherwise is simply spreading misinformation. There's no reason you can't re-use them unless they're obviously visually damaged. Nowhere in the FSM will it tell you that head bolt replacement is necessary. That being said, ARP studs are great for turbo motors. For NA I would always re-use. Carry on!
Even the manual has 2 different torque sequences for new and "old" headbolts :D (Y)
@@BFE08STI there's a break-in procedure for brand new bolts, yes. But that has nothing to do with them being TTY or not (they're not)
@@xjsc16x I was agreeing with you...
Yep, I agree with you 100%!
Not bashing either, but you do know the difference between an engine and a motor right?
Luke... do you know if the sohc 2.5 EJ251 valves are longer than EJ20 dohc valves? And are EJ20 dohc valves same length as EJ257 dohc valves? Thanks
Hi, sorry, not sure.
Are you still going to do the pharrell fuel system install ?
Yes, that’s the plan.
It would make the engine happy.
Hey nice video just quick question do you have to remove the camshaft and valves to do a headgasket job? Or can I take the head as is to the machine shop?
Yes, you need to remove the cams to access the head bolts. The valves and buckets stay in the head, Be careful not to drop any of the buckets because they are specific to each valve.
I been watching all your videos learning so much! I just have a couple questions? I plan on getting a ej25 block and use my ej20 heads. Do I now have to get Sti parts instead of wrx parts for the engine overhaul? or just treat it like it’s all ej20 cuz the only difference would be internals really right?
So why does the valve buckets on the exhaust valves have an I and the intake ones has an E ?
Edit: AAaaaand suddenly they changed places xD
Dude! I was wondering who would catch that. lol. They got moved and don’t ask me why - think the machine shop reassembled incorrectly, so I had to pause measure all my gaps and then put them back in the right place and continue. I decided not to mention it in the video, as it was a bit of a tangent. I figured someone with a detailed eye would catch that - nice man!
@@SubaruONLY How do you go about measuring gaps?? I took my heads out this weekend but kept the engine in the engine bay and had a couple fall out, paranoid that they weren't put back in the right placement now :(
I have the engine out of the car and it has excellent compression but I would like to install head studs as insurance for when I increase boost. It is possible to install studs into an EJ255 by swapping out the bolts one at a time without disturbing the head gasket, isn't it?
not sure. probably not as the torquing it different for the hardware. so have to retorque everything for sure.
Nice job 👍☺
Thanks! 👊
Did you put engine assembly lube on the retainer caps ??? And valves ?
"bag of nuts' I can't stop laughing 🤣🤣🤣
There are a few every episode... 😁😁😁
Great are these arp2000’s?
Great Video. Thanks for making it. What size socket did you use to tighten the nuts down?
Too long, don’t recall. Cheers!
Just put a set in my car and it took a 9/16th 12 point
Exedy clutch replacement stage 1 opinion?
where you at luke? we miss you!
Thanks for dropping the message man! I’m still here and going to be getting more videos out soon. Cheers man!
Hey Luke, I bought ARP bolts for my EJ251 sohc. I just installed them and see they’re too short? By about 10mm . Do you know if there are ARP head bolts for sohc 2.5? They go in cause they’re 11mm but just too short?😕
Sorry. Not sure about this. I’d think they would have the right length though, they have SO many applications.
hows the build coming along? haven't seen a video from you in a while.
For only an extra 60$, is it too much to use these on a SOHC Non-Turbo Subaru engine when doing headgaskets?
Probably overkill but can’t hurt too. 😁😁😁
Where do I buy these head studs?
Amazon or Flatirons Tuning, out of CO, USA. 👍
Maybe i missed it, but are the nuts a 12point 12mm or a different size?
Think i found out, seems like they are 12point 11mm in size...Can you confirm this?
Dont get me wrong i am far from being rich but i hate cheaping out when it comes to replacing things while i have an engine torn down already. Here in nj you'll see a difference of around $50-$70 between stock bolts and arp's.
Tell me about it. Same here. Worth the extra time and cost, almost every time!!
i ordered apr head studs for my 2007 sti , I'm getting a lot of different input on them, some say After 1000 miles they should be retorqued is this true? some say follow the Subaru process even using APR studs. coming from a honda background wed just follow the instructions Arp Provided with the product and call it a day What do you think ??
I’m with you. I always follow the aftermarket manufacturer’s instructions. Never had any issues. Cheers buddy and good luck!!! 👍
will this work great for ej25? thanks in advanced
Yes, would work well for that application too! Cheers and good luck!!!
I have a question about the reinstall of clutch. Can you assist me?
Sorry for the delay, how can I help?
I figured out my first problem with rebuilding the engine and putting the clutch on incorrectly, now the issue that I'm having is the retainer and retaining ring for the pressure plate has forced its way through the pressure plate. thinking now I have to just order a completely new clutch kit and do it all over again. is that something you would recommend or bend the retainer like some did on different forums? Also great video's, keep up the good work.
$185 and free shipping. where?
Actually, it was Amazon!!
Thank you very much for showing the measuring of stud protrusion above the nut clamping surface, this kind of detail is very helpful.
Referenced point in video:
ruclips.net/video/O5sDD4O0Rxw/видео.html
Where do you buy your head gaskets
Mostly Amazon now days. Or eBay, from trusted seller only.
What's the highest boost you can run because I'm runing 37psi aged 625 arp I'm lil scared
Nice man. I don’t know off hand but ARP guys are super open and willing to take calls about things like this. They really are the only ones who know first hand R&D info.
I'm going through withdrawal symptoms lol
Dude - I know. Had to focus on another big project. But also knee deep in a very cool Subaru coolant DiY upgrade! I’ll be filming the first video this weekend for sure - stay tuned!!! 👊
@@SubaruONLY Awesome!
I would hate to be in a meeting with this guy. He uses his hands way too much when he talks lol. But great video
I wish you would get a new sti and go from there . From intake to exhaust , fuel system ect Theres no 1 out there doing that .
From catch cans to tgv delete
Where are you Luke? Anything ok?
Thanks for asking. All good. Had to build a guest house for family and it’s been a huge undertaking. Also working on some Subaru stuff in the down time - stay tuned for some in-depth videos and discussions on the “reverse” coolant mod and why cyl #4 produces more heat than the other three cyl - very interesting discussion coming on this one. Hope you find it interesting. Cheers and thanks for checking in man!!! 👊👊👊
All I can say is WOW!!! two big mistakes #1 that mating surface of the block is by far not clean enough. it should be exactly like what you see win you get the heads back from the machine shop and that's by far close to it. #2 win you torque any of your head bolts and or head stud nuts you should never allow your torque wrench to ratchet at all. for two reasons so you can get a visual at how many degrees your torque wrench turns each time they all should be pretty much the same also so your torque wrench can get the proper torque you don't get the same exact torque. I am sorry to say I've been working on Subarus for 10 + years now so I can tell you a thing or two about what not to do as I've done it and learned from my mistakes just my two cents
Good vid stoner lol
😎
I can't like this video as the 6 Honey adverts completely disturbed and ruined it. Sorry dude, not your fault!