How To Check A Charging System - EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2024
- How To Check A Charging System - EricTheCarGuy
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Well this is by request and is a companion to checking a battery so I think I'll post it as a response to that video. I try to make things easy for you and I think this test fits the bill, you can even use the same tester or just a regular DVOM which is something I think you should have if you are serious about working on cars, I hope to do an entire series on using one of these so be sure to have one.
As always thanks for watching and subscribing.
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@sweettlka1988 I'd love to fill your request but keep in mind my videos are based on the cars that come into my shop so in order for me to fill your request a similar Accord has to come in with a similar problem and to be honest I don't put too many alternators in Accords but if I do I'll be sure to make a video for you.
You prolly dont give a shit but if you guys are bored like me atm you can stream pretty much all the new movies on instaflixxer. Been binge watching with my gf for the last couple of days xD
@Conrad Otis Yea, I have been using instaflixxer for since november myself :D
@ian1593 First you have to see if it's charging as I show in this video, if it's not charging check the cables and connections, a problem in any of those areas will also cause a no charge condition.
@mss829 I actually shot some video of raising the RPM's but the footage didn't turn out so I just mentioned it at the end. Good to know you are paying attention. Thanks for the comment.
@points2shopPROOF You may want to watch the other video I did on this Alternator Diagnosis 101 for some more testing but if your having charging system issues (and by the sound of it you are) it's a good idea to check the alternator output, if you have the 11.1V that you say you have this is far below what the alternator should be putting out. Good luck.
@flywelder There is a 'contact' link on my website if you need but keep in mind I get a LOT of email so it may be some time before I get to your question.
@jakethompson125 Yep, in fact I prefer using a DVOM but I was trying to make it simple by using the same tester I did in the battery test video. Thanks for the comment.
@wafrederick Yea leaving things unplugged will get you every time. Thanks for the comment and for your input.
@unidad355 It may be how you have your system hooked up or there may be some other issue in the electrical system. You may want to watch the other video that I did on this, Alternator Diagnosis 101.
@ian1593 I'm happy to help, thanks for the update and for your comments.
@AutodromoF1 I recommend watching the other video I did for this Alternator Diagnosis 101 as it has more detailed information and other things to check that are not in this video.
@thaik56 You might want to also watch the video I did on Alternator Diagnosis 101 for more detailed information but yes, you do need to make sure you have a good battery before doing any testing on the rest of the electrical system.
@happy543210 That is the point, the only way to truly check the alternator output is under load. I did mention you could use a DVOM to perform the same test. Thanks for the comment.
@Standingwithfeast Above 12V at idle is good, I'm sure you can get 13V at higher RPMs. This video was to show a simple test. I'm assuming that you use the power probe to full field the alternator? Interesting idea. Thanks for your input and your comment.
@davelowe1977 I'll actually be coming out with a new video on alternator diagnosis in the near future that addresses some of your concerns. Thanks very much for your input.
@pandurate That's been pointed out and in later videos I've replace it and hung it properly. In the new shop it hangs properly in the background. Thanks for the comment.
@Junkman2000 If you get the tension too tight you can ruin the bearing however that seems like a short amount of time for a bearing to go out. Are they going out because of an electrical failure or a mechanical one?
Thanks, I sent my sister here to diagnose her problem with my DVOM, saved me a trip to her place first, picked up the alt on the way, (and had them bench test it at the shop) and installed it, you saved me an hour and explained it better than I ever could to my sister, Thank you.
@integra57 That is a tricky one. The smaller pulley would spin the alternator faster and potentially produce more power but as you say if the voltage regulator would step in. I think the key here is to understand the difference between voltage and amps, amps are produced based on circuit load and would have little to do with more voltage so my answer would be that the amp output would be dependent on circuit load and not how fast the alternator was spinning. I could always be wrong however.
@cincityallstar I love it when a plan comes together. Glad I was able to help and that you got it fixed. Thanks for the update and the great comment.
@jambe1234567 That would be a different video to be posted at some point in the future.
@thaik56 I'm thinking you should have a bit more than that, is that at idle or after you raise the RPM's to 2K?
@straydoggio Glad you like the videos, thanks for the great comment.
@theOats11 It won't happen all the time I just happen to be on right now and at the end of my comments normally I won't be able to respond so quick. Good luck.
@Toltecatl Thanks for your comment. It would be redundant to install an oil pressure gauge, on cars without an oil pressure gauge they use an "idiot light" that would indicate that oil pressure had dropped below a safe point. You could put one in if you wanted but it would be a waste of time unless it was a performance application of some sort in my opinion.
@coldcash12345 This test will defiantly account for a voltage regulator problem but if you find one you will still have to replace the alternator.
@Toltecatl Thanks for your comments and good luck.
@Freelancelance Awesome, I love comments like this. I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
@dseries16 Interesting test but like you said, not always conclusive and difficult to interoperate. Thanks for your comment and weighing in, it is very much appreciated.
@slinkycat321 I really appreciate the comment, thanks.
@MayMayflute I'm very happy I was able to help, thanks for taking the time to let me know, it makes my day.
@xXteknomaticXx I'm happy to help. Thank you very much for your comment it made my day.
@Marshmallowrex That is a video in and of itself. The key to an effective diagnosis however is having an accurate wiring diagram for the car, without it you are just guessing. The idea is to use an ammeter to measure the draw that is draining the battery and pull fuses one by one until the draw goes away, once you find the effective circuit you need to nail down the fault within it, this is where the wiring diagram comes in.
@c72zero In fact that is a way better tool than the one I used in this video so the answer would be a resounding yes.
@ronglaum Yes it is, in fact it's a lot more accurate than the tool I show here. You just can't do a load test on the battery with a DVOM.
@flywelder First loose suspension parts don't cause vibrations at speed, out of balance things do but loose suspension parts make things worse. Start by balancing the tires and checking the suspension components.
@focusonthegreen Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
@AleksFarm Check the battery first and then the alternator as in the video for starters. Then check to make sure the connections are good.
@hondita90 Some parts are better than others but you need to verify that the alternator is really the problem by performing this test. It's also very important that the connections at the battery be clean and tight, poor connections can cause loads of intermittent electrical problems.
@mrdrejonn Not sure what the problem you having is as all you mentioned were the parts you replaced but you should always check the cables and connections as they are often the cause of electrical problems.
@TaylorWareFan1 That sounds like it may be an issue with the security system unfortunately the only people equipped to deal with that is the dealer if I'm not mistaken.
@JDMnubi Test before you buy. Recharge the battery and do the test in this video to confirm the alternator output, if it's below 12V then replace it, if it is then look elsewhere. Don't rule out a connection problem just in case. Good luck.
@sbakar Yea when you mentioned full fielding didn't make any difference I was thinking the voltage regulator was OK, if it was bad you would have seen an increase in voltage during the full field, based on your description it does sound like it might have lost a phase or some other issue with the alternator itself. Thanks for the comment.
@meckatod If you installed an amp with some big cables to the battery you may have something hooked up wrong. Try disconnecting what you installed and see if the problem still exists, if it does you know it's in the system, if not then you need to look elsewhere for the problem. Make sure the connections at the battery are clean and tight as well.
@jeepers2655 You might also want to watch the Alternator Diagnosis 101 video that I did for further tests you can do. Good luck.
@ChubbyLoveDumpster It may mean that there is a problem in those circuits or a problem with the electrical system. I'd start by checking the voltage and verifying that my gauge was reading correctly then look into the effected circuits.
@TaylorWareFan1 Actually you should be able to run the radio for hours without issue, if it was the original battery it was probably time, they normally only last about 5-6 years.
@mlyfena Not exactly sure what you mean by this question but if your alternator is not putting out voltage the most likely cause is the alternator since the voltage regulator circuits are contained within it.
@TaylorWareFan1 Cool, thanks for the update. Normally when a battery starts to get low like that it can cause all kinds of weird issues with the electrical system as once it falls below a certain voltage many of the systems respond in strange ways. Thanks again for the update.
@GIOOTO Be sure to check it out because it could be the wiring or a connection problem.
@rachi2006 Make sure the engine isn't too hot and you can spray carburetor cleaner around the suspected area of the leak, if the engine idle changes you found the leak. The safest and "professional" method is to run propane through a vacuum hose around the area of the suspected leak, you will get the same result of an idle change that would indicate that you found the leak.
@FITVANITY11 I'm afraid I'm a bit lost on this one as the door lock actuator on that car is a part of the latch assembly and can only be installed in one direction as far as I know.
@midlantic1 Ohms law dictates all are connected, including resistance. It's much easier to read voltage in a situation like this as you can use a tester like this or a DVOM, to check amps you need an expensive inductive meter to read it accurately. Great question BTW.
@MrZdog76 I don't recommend that mostly because if you touch the positive cable to anything metal you could short out the entire electrical system.
@Marshmallowrex You may have what is called a "parasitic draw" that drains the battery when the car is off. First check the battery to make sure it is good, if it is the next time to leave the car sit overnight disconnect the negative cable, if the car starts the next morning then this is probably the case.
@WG587 That is exactly what I was referring to, thanks for the comment.
I have the same tester and the far right side of the dial is for the charging system. With the engine running it should read between 13.8 - 15v (the OK band) according to the instructions on the product brochure. That applies to both engine running with no load and engine running with a load. The brochure recommends testing both conditions.
@Toltecatl yes the light on the dash should come on in the event of an alternator failure. I would still do the test just to be sure however.
@Razorbackfever There is not "clutch" in the alternator but there is a voltage regulator. If it only charges at higher RPM the alternator probably needs to be replaced.
@jeyrapboy Sounds like it was the connector for the oil PSI switch. If it broke it's a very good idea to replace it. They usually require an 1 1/16 socket BTW.
@xanderzone84 Sure but it should be the same at the battery, if not it's probably something in the wiring.
@thatcutndude1 I would appreciate it if you would send it to me and I'll take a look when I have the time.
I like how you covered charging system. Hoovering around 12v seems like it would be border line bringing down the charge of the battery. Maybe that is why they are also checked at higher rpms. This was one of my requests. Thanks for keeping you word Eric.
Mike
@flywelder You might also check for vacuum leaks as well as check the ignition system for any voltage leaks (I did a video on this). That might be a good place to start. I can't remember if it was that engine or not but you might want to google something about crossing plug wires 7 and 8, I just remember something about a misfire on a Ford V8 being caused by something like that. Lastly check the fuel psi under load as it may have a problem only when the condition occurs.
@theOats11 It could be a connection issue but not likely if it was working normally before, it may be that the voltage regulator in the alternator has gone bad or it may have lost a phase, I would replace the alternator personally.
@Junkman2000 The voltage can be as high as 15V and still be good. You may have a mechanical issue if it's 'rpm's' that are causing that problem.
@rachi2006 If a car runs but won't idle it usually is a mixture problem. The most common cause I've seen for this is too much air either because of an idle control valve problem or an intake vacuum leak. It's not a bad idea to check your PCV valve too by pinching the vacuum hose going to it to see if it idles correctly.
@cincityallstar Check the fusible links down buy the starter on the front of the engine one of them might be fried. These are wires that work like fuses, if they feel too rubbery then it is bad, in your situation it should be obvious, look for melted stuff here. Make sure you replace them with more fusible links and not wires, they saved your electrical system, worth the money if you ask me. Good luck.
@mugshotmugshot Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
@authmaax In some states it is required to have a battery hold down, if yours is not securely held down it may have the problem you describe.
@MyBrilliantChannel In some cases that test can damage electronics so I don't recommend anyone use this test. It also proves nothing, I prefer numbers to back up a diagnosis when it comes to electrical issues. Overcharging can be very damaging, hopefully it blows fuses before it starts melting wires.
@Ddog2k3 Sell it, no I mean it. I believe the starter on that engine is actually under the intake manifold so if you just hear a 'click' when turning the key it might be the starter has failed, you would be able to verify this by tapping on the back of the bell housing just under the intake, if the car starts then the starter is most likely bad.
@myone2008 I'm glad you did too, thanks for the comment.
@kennyg757 Make sure the connections to the battery are clean and tight, may charging and battery problems are actually caused by bad connections.
@rupe357 Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
@sbakar Agreed, upgrading will save you a repair in the future for sure.
@flywelder I'm guessing it's a fuel injected engine, if this is the case I might be looking to the idle control circuit but I would also check the operation of the coolant temp sensor because that works like the 'choke' on a fuel injected engine, if the engine temp readings are off everything else will be too and you will see performance problems similar to what you describe.
@happy543210 it isnt a test you need to do with the car running. It is a test you do with the engine off.
When you rub a magnet on a needle to make a compass the magnetism doesnt just stop when you stop rubbing it. it is the same principle all this test does is test if the windings are shorted out or not. it is a pass/fail test therefore an easy and quick one to do.
@coldcash12345 It sounds like a voltage regulation problem, I believe that it is built into the alternator and you will need to replace the alternator to fix it.
@LookieLoudLou Your welcome, thanks for the comment.
@spelunkerd In order to see if an alternator is capable of putting out max power you need to put it into what is referred to as "full field", GM's used to have a spot in the back of the case where you could bypass the regulator and put it into full output but these days this is done electronically and such provisions have pretty much gone away. To be honest by the time you track down a voltage regulator you might as well have replaced the whole unit anyway.
@fancynot It's nice to see an artist of your caliber take an interest in my little car videos, thanks.
@cooolguy1986 I would check the belt tension, I would also check the condition of the belt itself, if it's glazed or shows signs of age you might consider replacing it.
@jsjoe66 I would first check the belt tension but I also did a video on "Alternator Diagnosis 101" that might provide some more information for you.
@Diesel1Dee If the reading is above 14V it's too high. It's not common for a problem like that to be intermittent but not impossible.
@frankie2234 Your welcome, thanks for the comment.
@rony23ify There probably is a short somewhere by the sound of it unless you have the AC or defrost on, the fans run when the AC is on and when you turn on defrost the AC is turned on. Your best friend will be a good wiring diagram so that you can see how the circuit is suppose to work, that way you can properly test it.
Hey Eric I have a 2014 police interceptor utility explorer I did this and it seemed to work. So far light hasn’t come on. Your a god Eric.
@jazzy4me4eva At idle that would be fine, it should go up when you rev the engine off idle.
@davelowe1977 Actually a static charge of 12.6V is best but with this test there is a pretty wide range depending on the vehicle however if there is a charging failure it will be 12V or less in my experience, this video is more of a 'check' not a diagnosis.
@integra57 the voltage regulator works by changing the field current in the windings to get a different output. the reason alternators are so efficient in the first place is because they use smaller pully than the old generators. older alternators had external regulators that could be adjusted. So technically both answers are correct but the one they were looking for is most likely no. and like eric said amperage is dependant on the load not the amount of voltage. More resistance(load) less AMPS
@happy543210 I do not want to get into a who knows more argument. You have a good point, The alternator's purpose is to recharge the lead acid battery by providing voltage in the opposite direction of normal electron flow. It is also to power the vehicles electronic system. The battery's purpose is to start the car and act as a capacitor smoothing out voltage spikes from the alternator when the engine is running. It doesnt matter what someones age is if they know what they are talkin about.
@2025axlrose Very cool, thanks for your comments.
@Goldeneagle4712 Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@MayMayflute The readings look good to me, I'm not sure why you would need to replace it.
@MrDrugdyla Sounds like you might need a high output alternator and some extra batteries to run that system.
All this time I thought those tester devices had to be connected to the altinator shows what I know lol. Also I was told that a hack way of determining if you have a bad alt and you don't have a fancy smancy tester, start the car & disconnect the battery, if the car dies the the alt is bad. I think that's how it works. Great video as usual Eric.
@TheZenerDiode I don't know, I got it at Harbor Freight though.
Eric, you are The Man! So I borrowed my parent's B&D battery charger w/ the alt checker because my battery was dead. Tried charging the battery -- one of the cells were bad. Then I did the alternator check -- said the alternator was bad, also! I bought the parts, then replaced them. I hooked up the B&D thing again; the battery was good, and the alternator was "bad". So after using a multimeter and doing a load test, I finally figured that the alt. checker machine was bad!!! Stayin' dirty, babe!
@TheAstro30 Possibly, check the belt tension.
@7864222804 Fuel pumps on Honda's don't often go bad, I would check to see if you are getting power and ground to the pump before changing it, if you don't your just throwing parts at it.