AVOID Making These ROLLER STAND Mistakes!
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2023
- Learn To Use Power Tools Safely! (Check Out POWER TOOLS EXPLAINED!)
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AVOID Making These ROLLER STAND Mistakes!
Portable, adjustable roller stands are extremely helpful tools on the jobsite! They act as a second set of hands while you're using power tools, especially large POWER SAWS.
However, if you don't use roller stands the right way, they can actually make your cutting much more dangerous!
For instance, you always want the top of your roller stand to be ON THE SAME PLANE as your cutting surface (i.e. table saw top, or miter saw bed). If your roller stand top is not on the same plane, it can twist your board, causing it to lift off the cutting surface. This can cause dangerous kickback!
You also want your roller stand to be stable. I like to shim the feet on mine with small wood blocks. Then, I like to WEIGHT THE ROLLER STAND DOWN! This prevents it from wobbling/walking.
You also typically want your roller stand slightly lower than your cutting surface. This way, boards can bend just a little bit and still land on your roller without knocking it over.
And you want your roller stand set at just the right distance from your cutting surface. Find a point where it no longer causes the board to LEVER UP off the table.
If used safely, roller stands can make your job immensely easier. Just be sure to focus on getting them set in the right place BEFORE YOU CUT!
Thanks for watching!
The Honest Carpenter 
Хобби
An issue I've ran across that you didn't mention is to make sure the roller is as square to the table as possible when used making rips on the table saw. I've had boards actually feed away from the fence because the single, long roller was "steering" it off kilter. In addition to the long roller, my roller stands include the little ball bearing type rollers that prevent this from happening.
Dang, good point Phil! I should have mentioned this…
Yes this was the main tip I was waiting for.
I have experienced this as well though I was using the roller as an infeed support.
I have one with a row of swivel casters and a cam plate to lift the droop. Those slippery solid flip top ones also help avoid stubbing into the stand.
Wouldn't it be better to angle it slightly towards the fence to help the board stay flush?
Doing a dry run is the best tip you made. Roller stand distance can be tricky as you pointed out. Too close as you showed will act as a fulcrum, and too far might allow the board to lift before reaching the stand.
Really glad to see you (or anyone!) finally talk about roller stands! My only comment is that I find that having two of them is a lot more useful...whether for both infeed and outfeed, doubling up on outfeed for very long boards, or to support a wider plywood board in a couple of places.
I agree Larry! I’m down to one at the moment, but wish I’d had two for the vid 😄
You do a great job of putting a lot of thoughtful information in a pretty short video without seeming like you're in a hurry. Thanks for the great tips!
Thank you, Messy! I appreciate that 🙂
The Workpro looks identical to the Bauer at Harbor Freight, which is $25. I can’t compare their quality, but the Bauer has the leveling knob and flip-up edge guides, too.
Always excellent advice for DIY
Great video, a lot of really helpful advice.
Thanks for the tips Ethan. Really good advice! 😊😊😊😊
Good advice, Ethan. Thanks!
Very helpful, thanks
👍 You covered it all. Excellent video on a very useful tool.
Excellent.
Helpful safety info as always. Keep ‘em coming Ethan.
Really good advice…thanks for the great info 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you! This was very informative to me, a person who has never used a roller support.
Great info, thanks
Awesome.. I didn’t even know these existed! Only knew about saw horses. Sweet 😅
Good information. Didn't expect that much hidden danger on that little simple thing.
All good info! Good video.
As ever great video with lots of tips and clear understandable explanations 👍🏻Keep up the good work
Thanks, Ian!
Great tips
Great video Ethan!!!
Thank you, Mark!
One thing to me you didn’t mention is that the stand must be set correctly in terms of the legs . To me that added stability if they are set with the spread facing the correct direction; if placed backwards i found they still can become unstable even if at the correct height.
Correct! If the roller stand is placed incorrectly, it can actually fold up, even if the roller is operating properly. So, before making the cut, push on the roller in the direction of the feed. If the stand collapses, turn it around. It should then be fine.
I’ve had it folding up on me when set up the wrong way.
In the video, I noticed it was angling away from the table saw, which creates a fulcrum point for the back legs. It’s been my experience the stand works best when angling towards the saw. You can probably eliminate the need to weigh down the legs with this setup.
Looks like your feeling better! Glad to have you back!
Thanks, Jared! 👍😄
Videos I didn’t know I needed
Picked up one yesterday…..perfect timing and insight. Thanks for addressing.
Nice, Grady!
I would love to see a part 2 and 3 and maybe even a part 4 and 5 of this video. I think it would be cool to see some of those joints retested with a better clamping/ fit setup. And then other joints tested in the exact same way.
I use a plastic top folding banquet table with telecoping legs for easy height adjustments as an outfeed table, easy to store and setup and works great
Really glad you are back, and I am enjoying watching these informative videos.🥶🖤🔔👍🏻❤️
Thank you, Mary Beth! Glad to be back 😁
Good call. Even "helping" tools need to be set up correctly. I have a roller stand and the thing that I concentrate on is to have it the "right way" around. If it's the wrong way it easily pushes over leading to most of the problems that you pointed out
i learned something- thx
I just bought a roller stand. Very timely and good tips. Thanks.
Good to hear, Steve!
🤗👍 GREAT TIPS ETHAN 💚💚💚
With decades of woodworking experience I completely agree with this video. Nothing more important with power tools than keeping all your digits to yourself.
That’s the truth, Lou!!
Excellent. I always keep some small, empty sandbags in a tool case for these sorts of situations where you need to weight something down. You can always find some gravel, rocks, or something to fill them.
(Good for adding weight to a camera tripod, too 😂)
Great idea, Wan!
I never knew a Tool like that exist, but it never hurts to learn something new. Thanks. 👷🏿
Good to have around, W!
Love roller stands. Definitely took me a bit to master using them. Best use I found is with a miter saw in a job site. They saved my bacon rebuilding a deck with 16 foot decking boards.
This is a good, well explained video. 👍👍👍
Thanks, audio!
Sure, you bet. @@TheHonestCarpenter
Flip top support stands from home depot work great and eliminate some of the problems with roller stands. i've used both, use the flip top stands and roller stands haven't come out of storage for years. excellent points though on the roller stands. Flip top stands really do work better when weighted down too.
consider reviewing Next Level Carpentry's GROAT roller stand
Thanks for the safety tips. Not enough attention is given to these situations. I’m sure a lot of accidents are caused by simple misalignment of work areas.
I have a pair of stands that look exactly like these (even down to the color), but they are from Harbor Freight. The one feature I really wish they had is a geared mechanism to adjust the height. I find it very tedious to adjust while trying to align with a dry-fit board, holding the stand to keep it in place (the legs tend to move), while at the same time turning the lever to loosen the adjustment point, raise/lower it, and re-tighten the level. The ability to just turn a knob to make the adjustment would be a huge improvement IMO.
I have wondered how critical it is for the roller itself to be perpendicular to the saw blade. If it is rotated a bit, will it tend to steer the board off the cut line?
See the pinned comment: it's important.
One of the worst problems I've had with a roller is the handle giving out such that I was unable to tighten the height adjustment adequately. I ended up throwing the handle out and getting a designated wrench to take its place.
Try being in australia where we use 5.4 up to 7.2m lengths of timber.
I have a DeWalt 744 table saw and have not been able to locate a riven blade for it. I noticed you had one on your old table saw. Can you identify the part and where to locate it. Thanks.
That dry test is huge especially with a table saw. I e learned my lesson. Both examples you give have happened. I was trying to either leverage my board up because the stand was too high all the while the saw is running or I had it too close and I find myself applying a ton of downward pressure on my end which can be dangerous too. Make the tools work for you, you don’t work for them. Great video Ethan.
Thank you, John! Great insight. 👍 Even knowing better, Ive found myself fighting boards on jobsites and thought, “Dangit, I did it again!”
I hate roller stands so much that I threw away the 5 I had because I refused to condemn somone else to the headache. They redirect your material if they're not set perfectly. I used the ones with the bearings for a bit until they locked up from moisture. The ridgid outfeeds are 1000x better, in my opinion. Bought 6 and never looked back.
I have a couple of those roller stands.
I completely agree with everything you said.
I will add one point. When using them for an out-feed or in-feed stand, make sure they are perpendicular to the direction of travel. If they are at an angle or not level they will tend to pull the wood in that direction which can be a problem on your table saw.
I also find depending on how high you extend the roller, they tend to be more prone to tipping in one direction vs the other. For example I'll position mine so that the folding leg is always away from the table saw on the out-feed side, and the reverse on the in-feed side.
Very good points!!
Yes roller stands, right slightly lower from outfeed of saw. I have seen and I’ve also done knocking them down. Dangerous with a long board while ripping!! Shut the saw off and hold board down until blade stops turning!! I was working with someone who had toe broken by falling stand.
for a roller stand I prefer ballbearing rollers to mono rollers, that way I am not too concerned about the squareness to the tablesaw. They cost more but I think they are worth it
an issue I had with mine is over time, the knob to secure the height of the roller remains locked while in use, was worn out and the knob no longer locked it in place ..also, you might've mentioned which direction the stand should be facing
If you don't have an outfeed table, a second roller stand about a foot from the table saw can be a big help, too.
One thing you didn't mention was to have the roller at a slight angle so that the board is kept against the fence when it hits the roller. If it is angled the wrong way the board will drift away from the fence into the side of the blade.
I found the type with several ball type rollers to be more versatile than the single roller.
I only ever used them briefly on someone else’s jobsite. I want to give them a try!
What's the purpose of the screw on the one leg footing?
Great tips. Is there ever a case for using two roller stands in a line to reduce the risk of the board tipping off the saw at the end of the cut? Or does it all get too complicated??
I have done that before, Ben! But generally only on a pretty flat floor, like a garage.
I prefer it for long boards to avoid the fulcrum effect and the sagging board problem. But I'm usually working on flat concrete.
I can see how it would get tricky with uneven ground, but if you have a lot of long boards to wrangle it might be worth it.
👍
This is getting scary. I just bought one today, and this pops up in suggested list without me searching.
Be that as it may, lots of things are more dangerous than they appear so I may as well watch it.
I was running 12 foot baseboard through router table to add some accents, without any in feed or out feed support. The outcome wasn't so bad, though it was very difficult and time consuming. The main problem being, the weight on out feed side pulling end down caused it to lift up off the router bit. If you look close at the baseboard you can see high or low spots. It's in the basement so I don't look that close at it.
Hello
There is only one that I use and I have a couple. They can be VERY dangerous!!
A roller that is cocked to one side can cause a board being pushed through to drift sideways. This can be a problem with a table saw.
I use a couple cheap walmart folding tables. 40 bucksish and I have someplace to eat lunch.
This Workpro is the same as the harbor freight Bauer by the looks of it.
The only thing I don’t like about the roller stands, are those cheap plastic handles They seem to get broken very easily.
I could see that, Fred
For long boards, I use 2 stands so I don't have to worry about boards bending.
Baur stand is great,20 bucks
I work in the metal industry its true i have mortal standards from safety same concept in both industries
Like they say more you is power
Nolage is power gi. I joe lol
on the bright side, they show up for work on time, don't complain, cheaper then a flunkey, and don't need to be retrained every Monday morning
And they won’t fold under pressure 👍
The plastic handle broke off on mine. Why not spend fifty cents more and make them from aluminum?
There's a front side and a back side to the stand that you were using.
At 4:46, you have it set incorrectly. The leg that kicks out should be away from the board being caught. It's less sturdy the way that you set it up.
I’ve always considered that, Stan. But in practice when I’ve messed with them, I just haven’t noticed much of a difference, so I don’t sweat it as much as good alignment. They really just don’t carry that much load in the end.
✋ *PromoSM*
Lee Valley - used - to make one of the best stands. The top had a screw and knob to adjust it to level/parallel to the machine surface, it had swivel casters so it wouldn't feed your board to the side, or if they didn't work for that particular job (lots of back and forth) there was a stainless steel ramp with a radiused top that was nearly as smooth as a roller. The stands with ball rollers (transfer balls) seem to use really cheap rollers which either start with high friction or fill up with dust in the shop and need to be disassembled to clean them out - and a lot are pressed together so its a real PITA to take them apart and reassemble them. DAMHIK. I may have gone through a few different models but my old Lee Valleys are still the best. I don't think the design was subject to patent or copyright, so I'm kinda surprised no one else has made a clone.
Dang, that sounds awesome, Bruce!
Common sense, if you don't have any ...don't touch the saw!
Why not just get a proper stand for your miter saw? Most stands already include everything you show and it’s very difficult to fuck up the setup.
There you go again telling no lies
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Dude, I love you.
Hello
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