Mazda MX-5 Miata ECU Capacitor Replacement (NA8 shown, others similar)
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- In this video, I will show you how to repair the aged-out and often leaking capacitors in your Mazda Miata ECU using basic soldering tools. Below is a list of parts replaced in this specific ECU. Other model years may be different, so check your capacitor sizes and values before ordering anything:
1x ELE-630ELL470MHB5D 47uf / 63v Capacitor (105C rating)
1x ELE-350ELL330ME11D 33uf / 35v Capacitor (105C rating)
1x ELE-100ELL221MF11D 220uf / 10v Capacitor (105C rating)
2x MURATA DSS710D223S12-22 EMI Filters (Found on eBay, Amazon, and certain electronic component brokers as these are no longer produced - you're basically buying NOS parts).
In all, only a few dollars in total for parts.
I WILL provide an ECU re-cap service as an extension to my already successful radio repair business. If this interests you, please email me directly at: stereorepairs@gmail.com.
Can we just appreciate how in depth this video is... I've been trying to troubleshot an issue with my Miata that lead me to look up if it's my ECU acting up. For a few months I was scouring the internet looking for some solution for my problem. Going to find out if this is the issue. Thank you
this video is a godsend. I've done exactly what you described, i've scoured the forums looking for solutions for my issue. Replaced all these parts, still didn't fix the issue. I finally suspected the ECU, but there is almost zero information out there about that till i finally stumbled on this video. I'll e-mail you...praying you can help me.
This was my last place to look after changing a few sensors, fuel rail, fuel regulator, injectors and any other small parts that leads to stalling.
Same corner on the circuit board, capacitor fluid leaked and caused damage to the EMI filters.
Stubbled on this video while looking for replacement parts on this board.
I’m happy to find this was my issue cause the repair is cheap and some basic electronic skill :)
I truly think that offering this as repair service could be a minefield as unlike the stereo's you have now way of testing them before sending them back.
This is why I have all prospective customers sign a form explaining the risks of this repair.
Mr.Bishop, I wanted to thank you for the videos. Several years ago you put videos up on the 2014 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0, because of those videos I purchased mine with more of what to look for. I am still driving this little car and have become very fond of it...she's my little champion who also does well on wintry roads. I wish I could afford to make donations to your channel but disability funds are not...astounding. Your channel deserves to be towards the top 🎩 of the chart. Videos like yours keep my brain from stagnating 🤪. Keep on rockin'👍🏻 till you can't rock any more
Thank you very much! Glad your GT is still running strong! Just change the oil every 4,000 miles at the most, and change the automatic transmission fluid every 30,000 miles (at the dealer) and it’ll keep going! I traded mine in at around 110,000 miles because I needed something bigger after buying a house.
@@bbishoppcm Thank you for the info. I'm doing 3,500 on oil change...still 😆. Can the trans fluid be changed at home? I know the configuration is different now, cost is a huge factor. I don't mind paying a dealership $100 or $200 but more would be outrageous.
Good stuff. I'm in the middle of replacing all the caps on my carburetor ecu (yes some 90s cars have computer controlled carburetors lol).
Cars have had ECUs for decades - it started with electronic spark advance, then made its way to early fuel injection and carburetors - my dad’s 1984 Ford F150 (straight six, carb’d) has an ECU as well!
@@bbishoppcm I'm working on a Subaru Justy. It controls spark advance and lots of emissions equipment, and air/fuel ratio with a little solenoid. neat stuff
thank you so much for this , very informative , just knowing whats the cause and how to fix it makes it way easier to to start to fix this.
im definitly doing this asap.
Thank you for the video. I have 2000 JDM NB, symptoms like you described, rough idle, stalling when hot, doesn’t pass emission test. Changed and tested all the sensors, nothing helps. I took the ECU off, and it looks super clean, no leaks or anything, measured the caps with multimeter, and checked around them that nothing is shorted. I don’t know what to do.. there are no ECUs for sale for VVT engines in Europe left.. if I cannot fix it I will have to scrap the car because of the inspection…
It sounds like another issue, and possibly unrelated to the ECU. I wouldn’t expect a 2000 to have leaking caps…
I'm having an issue with my 2005 NB Miata, it's throwing a P2610 code (ECM/PCM Internal Engine Off Timer Performance). Might have to check the caps now, didn't think of this before but now it makes sense (I have a few computer motherboards from around this time period that died from the mid 2000s cap plague). Thanks for the video, definitely will try this out instead of buying a new ECU!
Yeah, these caps were of good quality when new (unlike the Nichicon caps of the early 2000s), even the best quality caps will eventually fail - and these are just end-of-life
Thanks for this video on the ECU? Any chance you would be willing to take on the airbag module (NA01677F0A)? Lots of NA Miatas have bad modules, no longer in production. Apparently leaking capacitors are the problem. I can solder. I would appreciate some word from you on this.
could the liquid caps be replaced with solid polymer or would the lower ESR cause issues?
What about where to get the resistors from I have some rusted
I got a 93 Miata california emission car my ecu is shorting fuel injector 1 and it’s constantly grounded and finding another b6AW-18-881 ecu is impossible but I sent mine out hopefully they can repair it
Sent out to autoecm
Rip autoecm could not rebuild it they said they sent to a third party builder but no reason why they could fix it I took it apart and some dark spots near the big capacitor possibly electrolytic corrosion?
Here is what mine is doing. It was running fine then started this. If it goes over 2700 rpm’s. I have replaced everything but the Ecu and the o2 sensor. What do you think?
I'd check your ECU capacitors as they should be checked anyway, then go backward and start putting your OEM sensors back in one at a time. Aftermarket sensors made within the past ten years belong in the trash - unless you actually used OEM parts, in which case, pat yourself on the back!
I do still offer ECU recap jobs, but results are NOT guaranteed. $150 is my rate.
@@bbishoppcm I pulled my ecu this weekend and I see zero damage. Do you have an email I can send pictures?
stereorepairs@gmail.com - no visual damage is a good time to get them replaced. As part of the job, I'll test each one as I pull it to determine if it was good or bad; this helps you determine whether or not it was even remotely part of the issue.