After removing the damper unit from the fork leg, cover the hole with a clean rag. You don't want some dust, dirt, flies etc getting into the fork while you're servicing the damper. Especially if you gonna be using sandpaper right next to that hole :D
This problem seems to be similar to what was happening with some SRAM Guide brake levers. The (plastic) piston apparently expands a bit after prolonged contact with the brake fluid and becomes too tight fit in the lever bore. People also fixed that with a bit of sanding down the piston. SRAM also sells replacement pistons which, when measured, are slightly smaller diameter than the originals that the levers came with. But I guess they don't do so with these old model forks.
The actual fix is increasing the spring tension, which you do by lifting up the gray inner piece up just enough to rotate it once (clockwise I believe, you can tell by the spring tension increase as you do) and putting it back in the slot. This is needed either due to the spring becoming worn, out or in my case with a brand new remote lockout, they didn't set it right.
Prior to this video, I already uploaded another video where I show how to apply tension to the spring: ruclips.net/video/GOuSoe1FHIc/видео.htmlsi=Bf8Bc7P2jS243kkf&t=618 This sticky lockout dial issue is actually caused by the grey plastic part that tends to swell over time. Giving an extra turn to the spring and increasing its tension more than it is supposed to be might be a workaround but it will also render the Lockout dial movement unnecessary stiff.
Thank you for your encouraging comment! I don't know the real cause of the problem. But I know that generally plastic or resin tend to absorb humidity to a certain extent and this causes them to slightly swell. This phenomenon is known as "hygroscopic swelling". Not sure this is the case on our forks, but I suspect it is... Thanks for watching:)
Hello, the same thing happens to me with the 120mm rebate and three locking positions. The mechanic regulates the tension and it is solved but after 15 days it malfunctions again. Do you think the same can happen to him? Do you already have the problem solved? Thanks a lot.
Hi, the lockout dial on my Reba turns very smoothly after the fix. If you haven't done it yet, just try this simple test shown in the video between 4:12 - 5:18. If you feel stickiness, then your problem is probably the same as mine. The spring tension has nothing to do with this problem. Cheers!
I am not exactly a GT enthusiast. But I-Drive, high pivot and floating BB, has somehow fascinated me and managed to persuade me to get I-Drive 2.0 2004, iDXC 1.0 2005, Marathon Carbon Team 2010 and Zaskar 100 Carbon Team 2013. I also have a 2010 Zaskar Pro (hard tail). Now I own a fleet of old GT bikes! But when GT gave up I-Drive, my interest in GT bikes also came to an end... Do you ride an old bike too?
@@MindDesignFactory One bike sure is old. It's a 1997 Trek OCLV 9700 with every single component upgraded to modern specs including a suspension dropper & disc brakes. Love that bike!
I have never heard about Trek's "OCLV" so just googled it. OMG, a full carbon bike from 1997! I didn't know such a bike was available already in 1997. That's a real jewel :) A real man loves a retro mountain bike!
Hi, it would require a new motion control unit for a turnkey operation as well as a turnkey dial/lever to convert Poploc to manual control lockout. But I think you can control lockout manually by modifying the motion control unit and the lockout dial, if you aren't bothered by a bit of work.
Yeah, I did. In this case, it is easier to work with the motion control unit with the fork fully extended. So you don't need to do anything on the spring side of the fork.
Thanks to this video I was able to solve the problem! Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Have a nice weekend😉
Outstanding! I recently purchased a used SID Select RL3 and it is doing this. Thanks for posting- easy fix. 👍
This seems to be a common problem on old RockShox forks (with motion control).
Thanks for watching!
Brilliant. This is exactly what’s happening to mine. I’m going to try this. Great video, very clear. 👍🏻
Great to hear that! Thank you for watching.
And have a nice ride, cheers!
After removing the damper unit from the fork leg, cover the hole with a clean rag. You don't want some dust, dirt, flies etc getting into the fork while you're servicing the damper. Especially if you gonna be using sandpaper right next to that hole :D
This problem seems to be similar to what was happening with some SRAM Guide brake levers. The (plastic) piston apparently expands a bit after prolonged contact with the brake fluid and becomes too tight fit in the lever bore. People also fixed that with a bit of sanding down the piston. SRAM also sells replacement pistons which, when measured, are slightly smaller diameter than the originals that the levers came with. But I guess they don't do so with these old model forks.
The actual fix is increasing the spring tension, which you do by lifting up the gray inner piece up just enough to rotate it once (clockwise I believe, you can tell by the spring tension increase as you do) and putting it back in the slot. This is needed either due to the spring becoming worn, out or in my case with a brand new remote lockout, they didn't set it right.
Prior to this video, I already uploaded another video where I show how to apply tension to the spring:
ruclips.net/video/GOuSoe1FHIc/видео.htmlsi=Bf8Bc7P2jS243kkf&t=618
This sticky lockout dial issue is actually caused by the grey plastic part that tends to swell over time. Giving an extra turn to the spring and increasing its tension more than it is supposed to be might be a workaround but it will also render the Lockout dial movement unnecessary stiff.
I think i have the same problem. Thank you for showing this easy solution.
My pleasure:)
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the lesson!!! The same thing was happening to my Reba!
Glad that you find this video useful :)
Thanks for watching!
This was exactly the fix I needed. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Clean and instructional video! This fixed my problem. Wonder what the reason is for this problem to occur tho. Thanks alot:)
Thank you for your encouraging comment! I don't know the real cause of the problem. But I know that generally plastic or resin tend to absorb humidity to a certain extent and this causes them to slightly swell. This phenomenon is known as "hygroscopic swelling". Not sure this is the case on our forks, but I suspect it is...
Thanks for watching:)
Great vid, many thanks
Thanks for watching 😊
Have a nice weekend!
Hello, the same thing happens to me with the 120mm rebate and three locking positions. The mechanic regulates the tension and it is solved but after 15 days it malfunctions again. Do you think the same can happen to him? Do you already have the problem solved? Thanks a lot.
Hi, the lockout dial on my Reba turns very smoothly after the fix. If you haven't done it yet, just try this simple test shown in the video between 4:12 - 5:18. If you feel stickiness, then your problem is probably the same as mine. The spring tension has nothing to do with this problem. Cheers!
Very clear video.. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
thanks mate great help. save me a couple of bucks.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the helpful video...👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for watching!
Just noticed the bike is an old school cool GT. Fucking badass! 💥💥💥😃
I am not exactly a GT enthusiast. But I-Drive, high pivot and floating BB, has somehow fascinated me and managed to persuade me to get I-Drive 2.0 2004, iDXC 1.0 2005, Marathon Carbon Team 2010 and Zaskar 100 Carbon Team 2013. I also have a 2010 Zaskar Pro (hard tail). Now I own a fleet of old GT bikes! But when GT gave up I-Drive, my interest in GT bikes also came to an end...
Do you ride an old bike too?
@@MindDesignFactory One bike sure is old. It's a 1997 Trek OCLV 9700 with every single component upgraded to modern specs including a suspension dropper & disc brakes. Love that bike!
I have never heard about Trek's "OCLV" so just googled it. OMG, a full carbon bike from 1997! I didn't know such a bike was available already in 1997. That's a real jewel :)
A real man loves a retro mountain bike!
Have u tried applying grease in that area?
I lubricated the parts before this fix, yes. It only made the situation marginally better in a very short period of time.
Is there a way to make the lockout manual and lose the remote lever and cable?
Hi, it would require a new motion control unit for a turnkey operation as well as a turnkey dial/lever to convert Poploc to manual control lockout. But I think you can control lockout manually by modifying the motion control unit and the lockout dial, if you aren't bothered by a bit of work.
I don't think they sell a different knob. You'd have to fabricate a replacement top cap, or have someone do it for you.
Did you remove the damper without letting any air out of the other forkleg?
Yeah, I did. In this case, it is easier to work with the motion control unit with the fork fully extended. So you don't need to do anything on the spring side of the fork.