Years ago I was researching things for Revolutionary War reenacting, and found Townsends. Now I'm researching the camera I bought for my WWII combat photographer reenacting......and I'm now pretty sure Jon has all the same hobbies I do.
@@robertcrewdson8611 wow!ive had it this long? Which sprocket gets removed, the ones closer to the middle or the outer? I never got any film yet since ive only found 400 ft from b&h. But i just scored a filmo 70hr with the mickey mouse magazine so that wont be a problem anymore. Ill probably sell the 70 de.
You need to remove the outside sprockets, the ones nearest to you once you remove the cover. Some people use a Dremil to grind them down. You would also need to remove the pull down claw on the same side. @@UpcomingJedi
@@Worldwar1944 I mentioned the 18th Century since the presenter, Jon Townsend, has another channel that covers the 18th Century. My statement was facetious.
I had one of these cameras. I paid $100 for it and sold it for $100. It worked pretty good. Maybe it was a newer one. I could shoot at 64 frames all the way down to 8 frames. It was a turret lens camera. I had three lenses on it, and I believe they were type C lenses. I pretty sure because I had a Canon type C 16mm movie camera lens with a 50mm focal length that I would screw into where the 25mm lens was. Yes even though you could turn the lens barrels to focus, you had to guess or better yet measure what you were photographing. I did have a viewfinder which was very small and the longer the focal length, it showed a smaller view. I sold the camera to a teacher who taught film and video.
Very heavy. I prefer the similar shaped Victor series 3 with turret, being much lighter. Altho they take only double perf film, can be modified by filing off the teeth on one side of the sprocket gear. Must ensure the correct side for the filing is irreversible!
The pulldown is located in the front shutter section of the camera. Take it slow the shutter button will pop out under pressure when you take the front off.
I have a question. Do you have to do a full wind to maintain accurate speed or can you only wind it for the length of your shot so as to prevent the spring motor from being fatigued. In other words, if it is governor controlled and you are shooting at a given frame rate say, 24 fps, can you wind just enough for a 7 second shot and maintain a steady frame rate?
Jas, there have been two models, speed-wise, from the beginning, a regular 8-to-16 fps and a high-speed 16-to-32 fps model. That concept was repeated with the Filmo 8 models.
I seem to have one from 1923. Newest patent is from 1923 and others are patent pending. As a word of warning however DO NOT open the shutter mechanism when the camera is wound because it will practically explode! Mine is still jammed up and moves very slowly so it seems to be a lubrication issue. Not sure if I will ever shoot on it since it has been in a bag since the late 1940's judging by some expired film that came with the camera.
Thank you for this video! I've had my Filmo 70 series (most recent patent date 1927) for about 13 years now, and never used it. This fall there is a class I'm hoping to take, in which I will be able to use it....if I can modify it for single perf. I think the "sprockets" on the two reels will be easy enough to grind off one side, but I'm concerned abut grinding down the "claw". Did you have to remove the assembly on the inside face of the camera to get to the claw, or did you grind it down/cut it off with the full assembly in place? Did you use a Dremel (or something similar)? I have a floor-model grinder I can use to grind down the sprockets on one side of the reels, but I don't know if that would be too aggressive. Any suggestions? Thank you for your time!
I have 2 x 70DR and HR, Bolex RX4 RX5, Arri S , Eclair NPR etc.. The B&H 70DR will be the camera I will trust the most to go anywhere in the world. The only problem is almost not possible to shoot macro. But if you have 3 Angenieux primes, you can go anywhere. Camera , film and light meter...That's it. Built like a tank!Bolex can do more stuffs, but it's a little bit more delicate camera
I know, I convert Bolex to S16 and Ultra16. Bolex is a very good camera. But do not drop it. The B&H really do not care. Very strong camera and runs 20 seconds more than a Bolex. I use both, Eclair and Arri to And 35mm too. But if I have to go in the middle of a war or jungle, I will take the B$H. If I have to shoot a macro documentary, I will use the Bolex for some shots. I will never take an electric camera
I have the oldest Filmo and I’m trying to understand where to unscrew the Cooke lens to change focus. The back of the lens behind the iris is on very tight and am scared to damage it if I use a tool. The front element comes off much easier. Is this front element what we use to focus?
I have the first model too! I got my footage back today and it's all severely out of focus. I'm not sure if the lens is bad or if I'm just missing something.
@@Asset1968 I have the old cooke lens. I downloaded the 70A manual a few minutes ago, and this is supposed to be a 'universal focus' lens. I think the distance on mine is out of wack after nearly a century
I am getting ready to modify my Filmo 70 to single perf. The drive sprockets are pretty easy, but you mentioned that the pulldown lever has to be modified. Where is this located? I'd hate to wreck my little camera. Cheers!
Thank you. I see how it goes together, but there is a hairpin spring that I cannot figure out where it goes. Does it help the prawl return once the button is released?
I have an ELMO 35mm, it came in a "unit" case and an envelope with a spare spring inside, the stamp is stamped 1939, one of the reels has been exposed. Eastman Type 5251 I'm at a loss what to do with the film, should i get a few feet of it exposed to see if its worth doing the whole thing? it could be lost WW2 footage.
Simon Rose 5251 was made from 1962 - 1969 so it can't be WWII but it will might be something interesting. It is 50T color, If you don't want to spend too much money but you still want to see if it has an image you can try to develop a few feet of it as black and white like I show in my hand development series and the results should give you an idea if it is worth going farther.
What?!? I literally yelled “what?!” when I saw it was you!!
Zachariah Haske I said the same!
Same here! I was like, “WAIT! What channel am I watching??” 😂
Years ago I was researching things for Revolutionary War reenacting, and found Townsends.
Now I'm researching the camera I bought for my WWII combat photographer reenacting......and I'm now pretty sure Jon has all the same hobbies I do.
Today on Townsends!
This is amazing!
Here I'm looking to find a good 16mm camera and I find you on a thumbnail!
The camera is easy to find. The lenses and viewfinder lenses are another matter. Heavy too.
Some people convert the older ones to take single sprocket film.
@@robertcrewdson8611 wow!ive had it this long? Which sprocket gets removed, the ones closer to the middle or the outer? I never got any film yet since ive only found 400 ft from b&h. But i just scored a filmo 70hr with the mickey mouse magazine so that wont be a problem anymore. Ill probably sell the 70 de.
You need to remove the outside sprockets, the ones nearest to you once you remove the cover. Some people use a Dremil to grind them down. You would also need to remove the pull down claw on the same side.
@@UpcomingJedi
Nice to see the variety of 18th Century cameras.
20th century
@@Worldwar1944 I mentioned the 18th Century since the presenter, Jon Townsend, has another channel that covers the 18th Century. My statement was facetious.
@@gemista My bad sorry
You have such a vast range of knowledge.
Great cameras, I have 4. Albert Howell, who designed it was a genius, and internally it seems to have remained unchanged. Very easy to load.
Wow it is weird seeing you out of your 18th century clothes
Same guy who showed me to make an oven out of mud.
@@tyrander1652 Thank you for clarifying that! I thought he looked and sounded familiar but I wasn't sure!!
Really glad your channel exists! I am just getting into the market of owning a film camera.
This guy loves old stuff :)
I had one of these cameras. I paid $100 for it and sold it for $100. It worked pretty good. Maybe it was a newer one. I could shoot at 64 frames all the way down to 8 frames. It was a turret lens camera. I had three lenses on it, and I believe they were type C lenses. I pretty sure because I had a Canon type C 16mm movie camera lens with a 50mm focal length that I would screw into where the 25mm lens was. Yes even though you could turn the lens barrels to focus, you had to guess or better yet measure what you were photographing. I did have a viewfinder which was very small and the longer the focal length, it showed a smaller view. I sold the camera to a teacher who taught film and video.
Good information. My favorite camera!
Very heavy. I prefer the similar shaped Victor series 3 with turret, being much lighter. Altho they take only double perf film, can be modified by filing off the teeth on one side of the sprocket gear. Must ensure the correct side for the filing is irreversible!
The pulldown is located in the front shutter section of the camera. Take it slow the shutter button will pop out under pressure when you take the front off.
I have a question. Do you have to do a full wind to maintain accurate speed or can you only wind it for the length of your shot so as to prevent the spring motor from being fatigued. In other words, if it is governor controlled and you are shooting at a given frame rate say, 24 fps, can you wind just enough for a 7 second shot and maintain a steady frame rate?
Jas, there have been two models, speed-wise, from the beginning, a regular 8-to-16 fps and a high-speed 16-to-32 fps model. That concept was repeated with the Filmo 8 models.
I seem to have one from 1923. Newest patent is from 1923 and others are patent pending. As a word of warning however DO NOT open the shutter mechanism when the camera is wound because it will practically explode! Mine is still jammed up and moves very slowly so it seems to be a lubrication issue. Not sure if I will ever shoot on it since it has been in a bag since the late 1940's judging by some expired film that came with the camera.
Thank you for this video! I've had my Filmo 70 series (most recent patent date 1927) for about 13 years now, and never used it. This fall there is a class I'm hoping to take, in which I will be able to use it....if I can modify it for single perf. I think the "sprockets" on the two reels will be easy enough to grind off one side, but I'm concerned abut grinding down the "claw".
Did you have to remove the assembly on the inside face of the camera to get to the claw, or did you grind it down/cut it off with the full assembly in place? Did you use a Dremel (or something similar)? I have a floor-model grinder I can use to grind down the sprockets on one side of the reels, but I don't know if that would be too aggressive.
Any suggestions? Thank you for your time!
I have 2 x 70DR and HR, Bolex RX4 RX5, Arri S , Eclair NPR etc.. The B&H 70DR will be the camera I will trust the most to go anywhere in the world. The only problem is almost not possible to shoot macro. But if you have 3 Angenieux primes, you can go anywhere. Camera , film and light meter...That's it. Built like a tank!Bolex can do more stuffs, but it's a little bit more delicate camera
I know, I convert Bolex to S16 and Ultra16. Bolex is a very good camera. But do not drop it. The B&H really do not care. Very strong camera and runs 20 seconds more than a Bolex. I use both, Eclair and Arri to And 35mm too. But if I have to go in the middle of a war or jungle, I will take the B$H. If I have to shoot a macro documentary, I will use the Bolex for some shots. I will never take an electric camera
I just found one of these and want to see if there is film inside.. but, I can’t open it??
it might fit inside one of the small holes on the side of the shutter section it looks like a slit with a hole in the center there should be three
What I don't like about the Filmo 70 cameras is the wide shutter angle: 204 degrees.
I didn't know they had camera's in the 18th century.
I have the oldest Filmo and I’m trying to understand where to unscrew the Cooke lens to change focus. The back of the lens behind the iris is on very tight and am scared to damage it if I use a tool. The front element comes off much easier. Is this front element what we use to focus?
It might be a fixed focus lens, or the front might rotate and cause it to focus.
I have the first model too! I got my footage back today and it's all severely out of focus. I'm not sure if the lens is bad or if I'm just missing something.
Cinemprises do you have the old Cooke lens or a newer C mount lens?
@@Asset1968 I have the old cooke lens. I downloaded the 70A manual a few minutes ago, and this is supposed to be a 'universal focus' lens. I think the distance on mine is out of wack after nearly a century
Hmmm i wondee if its screwed in all the way. Im about to test my camera and ill let you know how things go
I am getting ready to modify my Filmo 70 to single perf. The drive sprockets are pretty easy, but you mentioned that the pulldown lever has to be modified. Where is this located? I'd hate to wreck my little camera.
Cheers!
Thank you. I see how it goes together, but there is a hairpin spring that I cannot figure out where it goes. Does it help the prawl return once the button is released?
Wait a second
Does anyone use the rewind crank to run the camera instead of winding the spring for 25 secs of runtime? Especially if the spring is busted like says.
When are you going to shoot an episode of Townsend in 16mm.
Way too much work!
I have an ELMO 35mm, it came in a "unit" case and an envelope with a spare spring inside, the stamp is stamped 1939, one of the reels has been exposed. Eastman Type 5251 I'm at a loss what to do with the film, should i get a few feet of it exposed to see if its worth doing the whole thing? it could be lost WW2 footage.
Simon Rose 5251 was made from 1962 - 1969 so it can't be WWII but it will might be something interesting. It is 50T color, If you don't want to spend too much money but you still want to see if it has an image you can try to develop a few feet of it as black and white like I show in my hand development series and the results should give you an idea if it is worth going farther.
Elmo or Eyemo? Eyemo do date to WW2
eyemo, elmo was a the computers correction and me no re reading before posting :) Eyemo, a 35mm Bell and Howell.
It actually ELMO'd me too, but I'm used to the fight on that word.
Mine looks like the older style..
You need more close-ups of what you are talking about. This video clip is all tell and no show.
What the heck is happening??? You!!