For those who want to read more about why I selected these parts (and my thought process behind choosing components in general), you can visit this article I made in RotorBuilds: rotorbuilds.com/build/32034
Nice build and walkthrough!!! Watching you solder like that reminds me of me over 30 years ago, lol. NOW I need helping hands device, way better lighting, and 10x magnifying glass!!! I must go back and look at some of my soldering jobs, lol😮
odd could've sworn I replied to this. My bad Honestly, with how bad my eye sight is getting form studying at night, I think I'd be needing some magnifying glasses myself XD. Hey atleast the experience and skill sticks over the years XD
A We Bleed FPV Crown frame and Bleeder 28,500kv motors, HappyModel F4 ELRS AIO, and GemFan 31mm 3 blade props. TinyWhoop Pinch camera. Tattu R Line 1s 300. Perfect combo!!
New Subscriber! Here great informative video, I have built tons of whoops since getting into the hohhy and you hit on everything needed to build one of these awesome little quads. Thanks for adding a great video to the world of FPV!!
Wanted to be as thorough as I could be without being overwhelming since I understand things can get confusing. Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate it!
I recently bought an indoor drone, emax Nanohawk but I don't like the camera and I changed it to an ant. A big makeover, the difference is in the flight time of one minute.
@@im_ricebowl I have a question that I've been trying to find the answer for. I'm building a 75mm whoop and I want to use a 1002 23500kv motor with a 1s battery and an F4 AIO board from HGLRC, the Zeus5. Would that burn out the inbuilt ESC or should it be fine?
@@alias555akaare these the robo motors? not sure actually since I can't seem to find thrust data on them. However, that aio is only limited to 5a. I found a Infinity Loops video of the using 1002 22000kv on a diamond f4 (also 5a). Sounds like you should be fine but feel free to add a motor output limit if you want to be safe ruclips.net/video/spdQoxY0JxA/видео.html
@@alias555akaI think that's 14a total so 3.5a per esc which is still under the 5a limit...current is measured at the battery lead so I think you'll be finr
Interesting I haven't thought about doing that! what 40 biblade do you recommend I use? the gemfan 40mm ones like the ones on the mob 7? I also had some gemfan 35mm quadblades that I cut to biblades but I didn't have luck with tuning
I bought the meator 65 and 75 pro. I hate how they did the canopy. The camera is too high for my skill level. But you have to completely disassemble the canopy and vtx to adjust the camera angle.
your roll stick isn't centred hence the thing rolling constantly in the rx tab, and turning air mode off does reduce the PID loop authority and effect by about 75% so its not really recommended in 2024
it is centered - it's just the desperate attempt of my 6 year old controller to be put down already XD. Dw, the boxer I have is new and doesn't have that. i didnt show it here but in the preset portion, I did also have dynamic idle. because of that I turned off airmode. Also, alot of the whoop racing pilots I talk to turn off airmode.
@@im_ricebowl there are lots of schools of thoughts on airmode on/off mine is as a Betaflight Dev 😂.. so it’s a bit more informed! Boxer is a sweet radio. I’m using a pocket for whooping but have a boxer and tx16 which I use for racing and full sized stuff.
@@Sugar_K interesting! seems like I still have a lot to learn about betaflight. Yeah man I love the boxer so much! feels so nice to fly with especially after using a janky controller for so long XD
I've actually had this aio for a year now and it's still working! Part of that reason is the conformal coat though, so I hope you consider doing that too. you can but ph2.0 kinda has too much battery sag. It'll fly but not as well as compared to using an A30/BT2.0 connector
@@im_ricebowl i ask cause i have all batteries with ph2 connector, anyway conformal coating only prevent on humidity, my burnt esc is due to prop getting blocked on a crash and the esc recieving too many amps for a split second, that is what ive been told, so every fc could burn fcs when crashing right?
@@El_Muffy Gotcha, then its fine if you go with PH2.0. I actually conformal coat to protect components as well since sometimes QC isnt great and 1 bad crash can break off a part. Yupp! thats usually how escs die. Some pilots say never turtle mode your whoops. Most pilots should probably follow that.
@im_ricebowl , excellent, ty. Btw, does that protect the vtx from a fc board? Meaning they should never touch, without something like this 3m tape between them? Ty
For those who want to read more about why I selected these parts (and my thought process behind choosing components in general), you can visit this article I made in RotorBuilds: rotorbuilds.com/build/32034
Nice build and walkthrough!!! Watching you solder like that reminds me of me over 30 years ago, lol. NOW I need helping hands device, way better lighting, and 10x magnifying glass!!! I must go back and look at some of my soldering jobs, lol😮
odd could've sworn I replied to this. My bad
Honestly, with how bad my eye sight is getting form studying at night, I think I'd be needing some magnifying glasses myself XD. Hey atleast the experience and skill sticks over the years XD
A We Bleed FPV Crown frame and Bleeder 28,500kv motors, HappyModel F4 ELRS AIO, and GemFan 31mm 3 blade props. TinyWhoop Pinch camera. Tattu R Line 1s 300. Perfect combo!!
wish I could try that out! sounds insanely fun!
New Subscriber! Here great informative video, I have built tons of whoops since getting into the hohhy and you hit on everything needed to build one of these awesome little quads. Thanks for adding a great video to the world of FPV!!
Wanted to be as thorough as I could be without being overwhelming since I understand things can get confusing. Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate it!
R.I.P. Project Blue Falcon!
Nice video!
I know man - I used to watch all his videos growing up when I was saving up for drone stuff. RIP to a great guy
and thanks for watching too!
I recently bought an indoor drone, emax Nanohawk but I don't like the camera and I changed it to an ant. A big makeover, the difference is in the flight time of one minute.
Thanks for the video. Had the information I needed to start on my first drone.
no problem my guy I'm glad I could help!
@@im_ricebowl I have a question that I've been trying to find the answer for. I'm building a 75mm whoop and I want to use a 1002 23500kv motor with a 1s battery and an F4 AIO board from HGLRC, the Zeus5. Would that burn out the inbuilt ESC or should it be fine?
@@alias555akaare these the robo motors? not sure actually since I can't seem to find thrust data on them. However, that aio is only limited to 5a. I found a Infinity Loops video of the using 1002 22000kv on a diamond f4 (also 5a). Sounds like you should be fine but feel free to add a motor output limit if you want to be safe
ruclips.net/video/spdQoxY0JxA/видео.html
@@im_ricebowl looking at the Amps in the flight footage, it goes up to 14A, so I don't think a 5A board would work. Thanks though.
@@alias555akaI think that's 14a total so 3.5a per esc which is still under the 5a limit...current is measured at the battery lead so I think you'll be finr
grea video thank you vry much my brother.
thanks man! I appreciate the kind words!
Wow nice video and walk through man.
and thank your for your kind words!
Cool build! If you want to get it to the next level trim down 40mm twin blade gemfans to 35mm. 0702 perform way better with those
Interesting I haven't thought about doing that! what 40 biblade do you recommend I use? the gemfan 40mm ones like the ones on the mob 7? I also had some gemfan 35mm quadblades that I cut to biblades but I didn't have luck with tuning
@@im_ricebowl Yes exactky those but 1mm shaft instead of 1.5mm you have on mob 7!
@@piotrmalinowski6054 Ill have some on the way then! thanks for the tip my guy! ill try them out when they arrive
@@im_ricebowl No worries mate, hope it will work well for you!
I bought the meator 65 and 75 pro. I hate how they did the canopy. The camera is too high for my skill level. But you have to completely disassemble the canopy and vtx to adjust the camera angle.
luckily I think there are some 3D printable canopies in thingiverse that may help
Nice vid! Just subbed!
thanks! I appreciate it!
your roll stick isn't centred hence the thing rolling constantly in the rx tab, and turning air mode off does reduce the PID loop authority and effect by about 75% so its not really recommended in 2024
it is centered - it's just the desperate attempt of my 6 year old controller to be put down already XD. Dw, the boxer I have is new and doesn't have that.
i didnt show it here but in the preset portion, I did also have dynamic idle. because of that I turned off airmode. Also, alot of the whoop racing pilots I talk to turn off airmode.
@@im_ricebowl there are lots of schools of thoughts on airmode on/off mine is as a Betaflight Dev 😂.. so it’s a bit more informed! Boxer is a sweet radio. I’m using a pocket for whooping but have a boxer and tx16 which I use for racing and full sized stuff.
@@Sugar_K interesting! seems like I still have a lot to learn about betaflight. Yeah man I love the boxer so much! feels so nice to fly with especially after using a janky controller for so long XD
What about the camera soldering?
usually they already come with wires attached and with some protective adhesive on them so you just cut those wires to length and solder to the board
Is it a durable fc that doesnt burn esc? And can i use a ph2 connector instead of the one u used?
I've actually had this aio for a year now and it's still working! Part of that reason is the conformal coat though, so I hope you consider doing that too.
you can but ph2.0 kinda has too much battery sag. It'll fly but not as well as compared to using an A30/BT2.0 connector
@@im_ricebowl i ask cause i have all batteries with ph2 connector, anyway conformal coating only prevent on humidity, my burnt esc is due to prop getting blocked on a crash and the esc recieving too many amps for a split second, that is what ive been told, so every fc could burn fcs when crashing right?
@@El_Muffy Gotcha, then its fine if you go with PH2.0.
I actually conformal coat to protect components as well since sometimes QC isnt great and 1 bad crash can break off a part.
Yupp! thats usually how escs die. Some pilots say never turtle mode your whoops. Most pilots should probably follow that.
3m tape...? Ty
@@CCC0122 yupp it's a type of foam tape that holds components well
@im_ricebowl , excellent, ty. Btw, does that protect the vtx from a fc board? Meaning they should never touch, without something like this 3m tape between them? Ty
@@CCC0122 yupp! Just make sure you cover the whole side of the Vtx that will lay face down on the fc
first
2nd
@@GelliBtime to start atreming in yt 😤
R U Pilipino?
yeahh