After several hours of projects done i must say that even with the air assist working as intended the lens gets dirty much quicker than on the LU2-4 LF i was using before. Must do more testing but iam thinking the issue could be the design of the orange eye protect around the nozzle. When compared the LU2-4 LF has a much bigger eye protect with only 3 sides so there is room for the smoke/particles to be blown away from underneath the laser. Must test the new laser without the eye protect to confirm.
Do you think a 3d printed focus and redirect would work to improve cuts or would you advise to just use a separate air assist? I'm considering this engraver but would rather purchase everything in one go rather than after the fact. That being said, I have no issue putting my 3d printer to work and designing a new "nozzle" to redirect that airflow and protect the lens better. What are your thoughts? Worth a try or just go with an outside assist from the get go?
Hi all. Can anyone help me with the machine travel settings in both laserGRBL and Lightburn, I've got the extension table on my OLM3, it worked initially, now the machine will not exceed 400mm (it says its set at x-400mm x y-860mm)
Good Day Rich. Thank you for your videos. I am looking at purchasing a diode laser and I would appreciate it if you would please make a suggestion. The X-Tool is not within my budget and at this time I am not interested in the K40 Co2 units. I would appreciate any suggestion(s) you may have. Thank you for your time. Best Regards, Joe U
Hi Rich, I have been looking at the LM3 for my first Laser Engraver. I was wondering if you needed can you replace the laser lens without replacing the whole laser module?
Thanks for your great videos.. would you recommend neje 3 max .. or ortor LM3.... Iam so confused which one is faster , powerful and fine in both engraving and cutting... Tnx in advance 🌹🌹
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuyby the way I was not able to find the motorised z-axis that you have mentioned in the video. ZLD 2.0. Did they release it at all?
So many people say how great Ortur Support is. That has not been my experience. If someone could help me reach the right support people I would appreciate it.
The first week I had my laser, I made a silly mistake and broke the clips off of the orange guard. I've been trying for over a month to order a replacement and have gotten a big run around. Thanks for the reply and ALL of your videos. You have helped me immensely!
I think all the air assist nozzles are badly conceived. In my opinion, the airflow should not be vertical and not be aligned with the laser ray, because that means making smoke and debris "bounce" back to the lens, specially with the new conception of laser beam "imprisoned" in a closed box without any way out for smoke, debris and airflow. I think the air nozzle should be oriented in a diagonal direction or even an almost horizontal direction, in order to make smoke and debris get away from the surface that's being burned. Too many of these diode laser machines are designed as if they were super-cutting beasts, too many reviews focus on what's the super-thickness they can cut, while I think they should get back down to earth and optimize the design of these machines for engraving and for little-thickness cutting. To me, it makes no sense to design laser heads that look like huge bricks filled with cascading diodes. If I want to become a thick cutting junkie, I need to get a CO2 laser, stop. If we continue this bizzarre way, we will arrive at laser heads moved by excavators on a construction site to be able to cut wooden beams 20 cm thick, just to feel satisfied by having used a diode laser instead of a chainsaw.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy If they want to keep vertical airflow, I think the air nozzle should at least turn from being a tiny hole into being a ring around the laser beam. Lasers are made to work because they burn, and burning means producing high heat on the surface. If the airflow cools the surface exactly when the surface needs to be burned, the principle itself of laser heating is partially lost. In order to laser-work a surface that's being cooled, you need more heat, so you need to set more power on the laser, and that means lost of efficiency and reduction of the laser diodes lifespan. I think the surface should be cooled just after being burned, not exactly when it's being burned. So, my idea is, as said above, a diagonal airflow with no obsession for high thickness cutting, or a vertical airflow for cutting but with some offset from the laser beam. Moreover, having the nozzle as a closed pack with the laser lens, makes the air pressure to "sand" the laser lens over time, because air is full of micro-particles which act like a sandblasting machine, even if our eyes can't see that.
Compared to no air assist, this worked very well. There isn't enough air to cool the surface. I have done extensive testing with a diode laser and air assist, and you start to defeat the purpose at about 9-11 psi on a shop compressor. These pumps are lucky to put out 1 or 2 psi.
I just had a look abut could not find the Purity laser lens cleaner in your amazon shop, maybe you should look at adding it there? I just upgraded to the new laser head for the OLM3 using the OLM2 frame, the one thing I have to do when I start the unit is powerup the frame and use the reset button before powering the laser head or the laser powers up at what looks like full power, I'm just putting this here in case others are looking at this option. My upgrade was because the OLM2 had a fire problem, they covered a replacement but I had to pay for the postage I was ok with that.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks but it looks like they cannot send the spray bottles to Australia, This item cannot be shipped to your selected delivery location. Please choose a different delivery location. I like that statement looks like I have to move, lol. If that is Alcohol or Ammonia free I have one that I can get here.
Hey Rich. Just wanted to add to your wifi setup for new owners. My LM3 very much works with my 5G wifi network. I think there is a lot of confusion because it is recommended to set the laser up on the 2.4 network, but realistically it's only so the laser can find the network. Once setup its works perfectly fine on 5g. My particular router has a setting that will temporarily disable 5g for 10mins which allows the laser to find your network. After the 10mins is up it goes back to 5g and like I said by that time the laser is setup in the system and working perfectly on 5g. So for new owners having trouble with setup just check your router settings. Almost all of them allow you to temporarily disable 5g for setup. I love that this laser works flawlessly over wifi with lightburn.
My laser master 3 that I picked up last week seems to slow down and jitter before coming to a complete stop while it is anywhere between 20% and 60% of the way through my image. I have changed usb cables, electeical circuit, and I cannot figure this out. Lightburn will keep going as if nothing happened, and then will not re-recognize the laser to send commands until I physically disconnect the com port. The flashing lights are useless, as thr manual does not seem to state all the color code combinations and what to do about them. Thank you for your videos, as these have been instrumental in learning to do the awesome projects I have attempted
I stopped using the AA top of module air pipe insert. Gone back to one I made for my LM2proS2. Mounted on the left side of the module, blowing any soot out to the right as it spread out as the laser moves. Far better. Replied to a Ourtur advert email with a version of this. Mentioned as you found, blowing air down vertical around the lens can also blow back off the material and onto the lens. Amazingly, got a reply asking if the photo of the LM2 Pro and home brew AA, was how the AA is better! …reply to my answer was that it was put to the tech people to investigate!
I have noticed with my master 3 that frist time cut was nice and clean then next project the lines were wider and more dark.so I cleaned the leans and was good again for frist cuts but after again back to frist cuts only say 30 min work,have air going to blow away suit but thinking it could be the orange cover ?
I know this video was 2 months ago. I also heard they will be coming out with a 20w laser. Any idea when the Z axis will be coming out? Will it be on a new until, or a change to the LM3 that could be available with an upgrade? Good video.
A great informative video as usual. Thanks for the tip on cleaning the lens. I've been using my new Ortur LM3 for just over 3 weeks for a couple of hours most days mainly for engraving and was amazed to find that when I inspected the lens it was about one third obscured by what appeared to be some type of debris, maybe rubbish from my air assist pump. Despite this it has been engraving very well but now I know that it pays to inspect the lens more frequently. Thanks again!
Off the subject if I have a sign where tgecwords are curved how do I engrave without the laser going back and forth in tge white space and just engrave the letters? I hope this makes sense. I use lightburn and the xtool d1.
I'm a little confused on the air assist you have on this laser module. I watched a couple other build video's for the Ortur Laser master 3 and they clearly show the air nozzle around the laser. So which is it. What will I get if I order this laser? Also if you look at the picture at Made the best it shows the air nozzle but on Amazon it does not. I want a true air assist not what you received.
Only via the USB. You can design in Lightburn and then save the Gcode, load it on the SD card and then run the .gc file on web interface for LM3 directly Robert. I showed how in the video.
The original LM2 is 12V Merrill. All the new modules are 24V. xTool sells theirs with a separate power supply. If Ortur develops one, they probably will as well.
the website is nice, but I wonder how useful it will be. you don't really start a job (or a second job) unless there is some material on the bed. You would need a linked camera to be sure that your laser is aligned but I could be missing something. I just got the Aufero 2 and loving it. Thanks for making these awesome videos, they've thought me a lot already
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I guess I'm a bit paranoid. If I can't see the machine I would wonder what if someone/something bumped or something fell on it and moved material or worse get in the way of the laser. but like I said, I'm a beginner and perhaps a bit too careful at the moment :)
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy You wouldn't happen to be working on a grid to burn on base for extension table, would you? I don't see a video. Just checking. Brad
You mention alcohol and swab is bad to use. Ortur states it in the laser master 3 manual to indeed use it. What is your rationale? Curious. Great videos!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy fair enough. Thank you for your feedback. Just took delivery of the laser master 3 this week and have some purity showing up today.
Another great video. Thanks for this and your Lightburn tutorial videos. You mentioned that Ortur came out with a motorized Z-axis for the Ortur 3. I have not been able to find out any info on it. Do you happen to have a link where I might find out more about this. Thanks.
Have you tested the Ortur LEP 1.0 (Laser Engraving Platform) they have released? It's another $130 but they claim it increases performance over standard Honeycomb platforms. What are your thoughts?
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy It appears to be made up of straight slotted mini extrusions. The only thing I could see as a benefit was how the hold downs could be configured. I'm sure you are right about elevation being the key. The other thing they go on about is how the coverage allows the use of the entire work area. I'm tempted but the additional cost seems crazy when you compare it to others. $159.99 with a $20 off coupon comes out to it being a third of the cost of the machine itself. For that price I was thinking there had better be something more to it. You know? Thank you for replying
I wonder if having your air assist pump could pull smoke in and blow it out at the nozzle? Mine is mounted inside my enclosure and that thought occurred to me.
Thanks for this video Rich. I have decided to go with this as my first laser. I really appreciate all your videos, your knowledge and mentorship through RUclips and your website. Without a proper air assist nozzle, there is a whole lot of turbulence created in the eye protect that tends to draw smoke to the lens. This would account for your need to clean it daily. I see Ortur now comes with an air assist nozzle.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Where was the blockage that you found? What flow rate is the air assist you are using? I'm constantly getting burn marks using the built-in air assist
It lacks an output to vent to the outdoors. It's okay for basic small jobs, but filtering to the same room sort of defeats the purpose. It'll filter the heavy smoke, but you'll still have the odors.
Question - Can I save a gcode from my PC to an SD card and the take the SD card to the OLM3 and operate thru app? Alternatively, can I save file to SD while it’s in OLM3, start job from SD, then disconnect laptop? Thanks
I bought my first laser engraver last week, a Lasermaster 3. Good seeing this video and that you put together a Library for this product. Thanks. Q: If the air assist is not going through the nozzle, what's the point of the nozzle? Is it better to go without it? I don't see it on your video but it maybe the angle of the shot. Maybe the lens would stay cleaner without it?
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I'd be interested in the results. Currently working on building an enclosure with fume extraction so my LM3 got played with the first night and put away for a week now. I'll get it back out this weekend once the enclosure is finished.
If your LM3 is using the LU2-10A laser module then double check if you connected the air assist tube on the top correctly. My air assist definitely comes thru the nozzle as it should.
I bought the new LU2-10A laser for my LM2 PRO S2. The LU2-10A i have should be the same as the one that comes with the LM3. My air assist flows nicely thru the included nozzle. If you unscrew the nozzle and look on the inside next to the lens you should see a hole there. Thats where the air flows from the air assist and not from the sides as you described. I think your issue could be that you didn't plug the air assist tube on the top correctly. You have to really push it inside the hole a bunch so it connects.
Hi Rich, I got my LM3 a few weeks ago so it should be the same as yours. My laser is a LU2-10-A-24V-22F18. I just checked the air assist and it does come out of the gray metal nozzle, if I block the nozzle off the air line pressure goes up and there is a small bit of air coming from somewhere inside the laser. I'm sure I don't use my laser as much as you use yours but after a few weeks my lens still looks clean. Thanks for all the work you do and the info you give us!
On the laser where you can control the z axis. One will you be able to use the Laser Module from Vectric? If yes, do you know about how much it will cost and when it will be available for sale? I have a HD3 shark and purchased a 2 Watt laser. Unfortunately, it does not work with the Laser Module for 3D cuts. Enjoyed your presentation, Thank you.
Thank you for the quick response. I now switched to openBuilds and I'm hoping that I can find a laser that uses GRBL so that I can do 3D lasering. Take care. @@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy
You might be mixing up wireless technologies. Wi-Fi uses 2.4 GHz (e.g. Wireless-N) and 5 GHz (e.g Wireless-G). Cell networks are now largely 5G cellular. The LM3 is limited to 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. Most home routers still support 2.4 GHz and it generally has better range than 5 GHz but is also very crowded airspace in some heavily populated locations so use can be problematic. I would certainly have preferred that LM3 supported 5 Ghz but it is not a big deal that it is only 2.4 GHz. A lot of IoT devices are still 2.4 GHz so it will be a long time before it is no longer supported.
Thanks Rich for another great video. I have the same module on my LMPro 2, I've noticed that if you stop air assist the laser output looks brighter, any ideas why?
*UPDATE* - There is a small hole inside the air assist nozzle. It's possible mine is clogged, so further investigation is needed!
I’ll be interested in your findings. I expect you will possibly on this here and in a future video?
@@DavesCave I had a piece of what looked like silicon stuck in the air assist line Dave. I got it out with a pipe cleaner and all is well now!
That’s great. With that quality build I’d hate to have to be cleaning it every 40 hours
After several hours of projects done i must say that even with the air assist working as intended the lens gets dirty much quicker than on the LU2-4 LF i was using before. Must do more testing but iam thinking the issue could be the design of the orange eye protect around the nozzle. When compared the LU2-4 LF has a much bigger eye protect with only 3 sides so there is room for the smoke/particles to be blown away from underneath the laser. Must test the new laser without the eye protect to confirm.
Do you think a 3d printed focus and redirect would work to improve cuts or would you advise to just use a separate air assist? I'm considering this engraver but would rather purchase everything in one go rather than after the fact. That being said, I have no issue putting my 3d printer to work and designing a new "nozzle" to redirect that airflow and protect the lens better. What are your thoughts? Worth a try or just go with an outside assist from the get go?
Hi all. Can anyone help me with the machine travel settings in both laserGRBL and Lightburn, I've got the extension table on my OLM3, it worked initially, now the machine will not exceed 400mm (it says its set at x-400mm x y-860mm)
You set the X & Y travel in the device settings. If that's not working for you, you may need to set them in the machine settings as well.
Good Day Rich. Thank you for your videos. I am looking at purchasing a diode laser and I would appreciate it if you would please make a suggestion. The X-Tool is not within my budget and at this time I am not interested in the K40 Co2 units. I would appreciate any suggestion(s) you may have. Thank you for your time. Best Regards, Joe U
Hi Joe, watch the channel in the next few weeks. I have a totally new all-in-one laser review coming soon!
Hi Rich, I have been looking at the LM3 for my first Laser Engraver. I was wondering if you needed can you replace the laser lens without replacing the whole laser module?
I don't think the LM3 has replaceable lenses, but I'm not sure.
Thanks for your great videos.. would you recommend neje 3 max .. or ortor LM3.... Iam so confused which one is faster , powerful and fine in both engraving and cutting... Tnx in advance 🌹🌹
I would recommend either, they're both very similar in their engraving abilities.
Me Too🤯
Anyway possible a review or ur thoughts on two trees TS2 would greatly appreciate it .
Can't say, I don't have one.
I havs debated on if i should upgrade from my LM2 pro LF to this but still not sure its worth it.
I would say no Raymond, having both myself.
Use a cardboard box with a a clear window built in and exhaust port?
👍 Sure, why not. The important thing is you use an enclosure.
You are a legend! I have watched a lot of videos about this laser but I should have only watched yours!
Wow! Thank you so much! I appreciate the comment!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuyby the way I was not able to find the motorised z-axis that you have mentioned in the video. ZLD 2.0. Did they release it at all?
So many people say how great Ortur Support is. That has not been my experience. If someone could help me reach the right support people I would appreciate it.
It has been until recently. ortur.tech/support/
The first week I had my laser, I made a silly mistake and broke the clips off of the orange guard. I've been trying for over a month to order a replacement and have gotten a big run around. Thanks for the reply and ALL of your videos. You have helped me immensely!
I am New to diode lasers, would you recommend this laser over the xtool?????🤔🤔🤔🤔😊😊
I would recommend any laser over the xTool Ray.
Thanks so much......great watching your videos....😊
I think all the air assist nozzles are badly conceived. In my opinion, the airflow should not be vertical and not be aligned with the laser ray, because that means making smoke and debris "bounce" back to the lens, specially with the new conception of laser beam "imprisoned" in a closed box without any way out for smoke, debris and airflow. I think the air nozzle should be oriented in a diagonal direction or even an almost horizontal direction, in order to make smoke and debris get away from the surface that's being burned.
Too many of these diode laser machines are designed as if they were super-cutting beasts, too many reviews focus on what's the super-thickness they can cut, while I think they should get back down to earth and optimize the design of these machines for engraving and for little-thickness cutting. To me, it makes no sense to design laser heads that look like huge bricks filled with cascading diodes. If I want to become a thick cutting junkie, I need to get a CO2 laser, stop. If we continue this bizzarre way, we will arrive at laser heads moved by excavators on a construction site to be able to cut wooden beams 20 cm thick, just to feel satisfied by having used a diode laser instead of a chainsaw.
Agreed, they form a vortex when vertical.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy If they want to keep vertical airflow, I think the air nozzle should at least turn from being a tiny hole into being a ring around the laser beam.
Lasers are made to work because they burn, and burning means producing high heat on the surface.
If the airflow cools the surface exactly when the surface needs to be burned, the principle itself of laser heating is partially lost.
In order to laser-work a surface that's being cooled, you need more heat, so you need to set more power on the laser, and that means lost of efficiency and reduction of the laser diodes lifespan.
I think the surface should be cooled just after being burned, not exactly when it's being burned.
So, my idea is, as said above, a diagonal airflow with no obsession for high thickness cutting, or a vertical airflow for cutting but with some offset from the laser beam.
Moreover, having the nozzle as a closed pack with the laser lens, makes the air pressure to "sand" the laser lens over time, because air is full of micro-particles which act like a sandblasting machine, even if our eyes can't see that.
Compared to no air assist, this worked very well. There isn't enough air to cool the surface. I have done extensive testing with a diode laser and air assist, and you start to defeat the purpose at about 9-11 psi on a shop compressor. These pumps are lucky to put out 1 or 2 psi.
I just had a look abut could not find the Purity laser lens cleaner in your amazon shop, maybe you should look at adding it there?
I just upgraded to the new laser head for the OLM3 using the OLM2 frame, the one thing I have to do when I start the unit is powerup the frame and use the reset button before powering the laser head or the laser powers up at what looks like full power, I'm just putting this here in case others are looking at this option.
My upgrade was because the OLM2 had a fire problem, they covered a replacement but I had to pay for the postage I was ok with that.
Thanks for the tip! Here's the link: amzn.to/3I3G4ZB
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks but it looks like they cannot send the spray bottles to Australia, This item cannot be shipped to your selected delivery location. Please choose a different delivery location. I like that statement looks like I have to move, lol.
If that is Alcohol or Ammonia free I have one that I can get here.
Yes, that's all that matters!
I learned so much from this video!
Glad it was helpful! 😉
Wish Lightburn had phone app.
This laser does!
Hey Rich. Just wanted to add to your wifi setup for new owners. My LM3 very much works with my 5G wifi network. I think there is a lot of confusion because it is recommended to set the laser up on the 2.4 network, but realistically it's only so the laser can find the network. Once setup its works perfectly fine on 5g. My particular router has a setting that will temporarily disable 5g for 10mins which allows the laser to find your network. After the 10mins is up it goes back to 5g and like I said by that time the laser is setup in the system and working perfectly on 5g. So for new owners having trouble with setup just check your router settings. Almost all of them allow you to temporarily disable 5g for setup. I love that this laser works flawlessly over wifi with lightburn.
Thanks for the tip! I'll try it!
My laser master 3 that I picked up last week seems to slow down and jitter before coming to a complete stop while it is anywhere between 20% and 60% of the way through my image. I have changed usb cables, electeical circuit, and I cannot figure this out. Lightburn will keep going as if nothing happened, and then will not re-recognize the laser to send commands until I physically disconnect the com port. The flashing lights are useless, as thr manual does not seem to state all the color code combinations and what to do about them. Thank you for your videos, as these have been instrumental in learning to do the awesome projects I have attempted
Hmm... strange problem. I haven't noticed that at all.
I stopped using the AA top of module air pipe insert. Gone back to one I made for my LM2proS2. Mounted on the left side of the module, blowing any soot out to the right as it spread out as the laser moves. Far better. Replied to a Ourtur advert email with a version of this. Mentioned as you found, blowing air down vertical around the lens can also blow back off the material and onto the lens. Amazingly, got a reply asking if the photo of the LM2 Pro and home brew AA, was how the AA is better! …reply to my answer was that it was put to the tech people to investigate!
Ortur is very receptive to feedback.
I have noticed with my master 3 that frist time cut was nice and clean then next project the lines were wider and more dark.so I cleaned the leans and was good again for frist cuts but after again back to frist cuts only say 30 min work,have air going to blow away suit but thinking it could be the orange cover ?
Could be Simon. I don't know, I don't use the cover.
I know this video was 2 months ago. I also heard they will be coming out with a 20w laser. Any idea when the Z axis will be coming out? Will it be on a new until, or a change to the LM3 that could be available with an upgrade? Good video.
I haven't heard anything yet Scott.
Just got mine in this week. Thank you for all the content makes my life easier.
Glad you enjoyed it!
A great informative video as usual. Thanks for the tip on cleaning the lens. I've been using my new Ortur LM3 for just over 3 weeks for a couple of hours most days mainly for engraving and was amazed to find that when I inspected the lens it was about one third obscured by what appeared to be some type of debris, maybe rubbish from my air assist pump. Despite this it has been engraving very well but now I know that it pays to inspect the lens more frequently. Thanks again!
Great to hear!
Off the subject if I have a sign where tgecwords are curved how do I engrave without the laser going back and forth in tge white space and just engrave the letters? I hope this makes sense. I use lightburn and the xtool d1.
You could set the text to offset fill instead of fill Wayne.
I'm a little confused on the air assist you have on this laser module. I watched a couple other build video's for the Ortur Laser master 3 and they clearly show the air nozzle around the laser. So which is it. What will I get if I order this laser? Also if you look at the picture at Made the best it shows the air nozzle but on Amazon it does not. I want a true air assist not what you received.
It has a nozzle Larry. I took it off to clean it. Like I said in the video, no air flows through it, so it doesn't stay clear of smoke.
Does Lightburn work through the connection?
Only via the USB. You can design in Lightburn and then save the Gcode, load it on the SD card and then run the .gc file on web interface for LM3 directly Robert. I showed how in the video.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Apparently it can. I posted about it. Thanks.
So, should I wait for an Ortur 20 watt output laser. Hope it can be used on the original 12vdc LM2.
The original LM2 is 12V Merrill. All the new modules are 24V. xTool sells theirs with a separate power supply. If Ortur develops one, they probably will as well.
the website is nice, but I wonder how useful it will be. you don't really start a job (or a second job) unless there is some material on the bed. You would need a linked camera to be sure that your laser is aligned but I could be missing something. I just got the Aufero 2 and loving it. Thanks for making these awesome videos, they've thought me a lot already
It's very useful. The only thing you can't do is design. All of the other tools are there. No camera necessary, just frame it.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I guess I'm a bit paranoid. If I can't see the machine I would wonder what if someone/something bumped or something fell on it and moved material or worse get in the way of the laser. but like I said, I'm a beginner and perhaps a bit too careful at the moment :)
@@RubenWoodcraft All of the new machines have shock and gyros, so no worries.
Thanks for the review. Definitely a big step in design and function compared to my LMP2.
Glad you liked it!
Anything on the OLM3 Extension kit and the settings that need to be changed? Anything? Anyone?
You buy the kit and change the bed size in the device settings to 400x850... easy peasy.
ruclips.net/video/vt9q1uYerqY/видео.html
As usual, you rock!! Thanks for the assistance.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy You wouldn't happen to be working on a grid to burn on base for extension table, would you? I don't see a video. Just checking. Brad
@@bradfrost4264 No, but if you send me an email I can make one for you. thelahobbyguy@gmail.com
I'm going to deep dive when it's under $200, or it stays the same price and inflation eats up the difference.
🤪 With the rate of inflation it might be sooner than you think!
You mention alcohol and swab is bad to use. Ortur states it in the laser master 3 manual to indeed use it. What is your rationale? Curious. Great videos!
The manuals are written by marketing people Mike. My rationale comes directly from someone that spent 25 years in the lens business.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy fair enough. Thank you for your feedback. Just took delivery of the laser master 3 this week and have some purity showing up today.
You can also use 99% IPA, but I find that expensive. The key is to use a microfiber cloth. You can use a Q-Tip, but wrap it in the microfiber.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I did exactly that. Wrapped the qtip in the micro fiber cloth. Works great. Thanks again.
Awesome Mike! Thanks for watching!
I have heard that a 20w laser is coming out. I am guessing it will be announced at the same time as the Z axis is announced.
I haven't heard anything in 2 months.
Thank you for all your video. I have learned so much from you which has made this hobby so much more fun. You are great and once again thank you.
You are so welcome Jorge!
Just ordered my Master 3 today. Do you put your laser inside of your CO2 laser bed?
I do because I can and it's here. Using an enclosure and smoke extraction is necessary with lasers Deena.
Love the new plug. I have been using 18 in pigtails for all the dumb plugs used for so many items.
🤪 Don't you just despise those plug hogs?? 😒
I've had mine a couple weeks. The air assist definitely comes out of the nozzle.
I added a pinned comment.
Another great video. Thanks for this and your Lightburn tutorial videos. You mentioned that Ortur came out with a motorized Z-axis for the Ortur 3. I have not been able to find out any info on it. Do you happen to have a link where I might find out more about this. Thanks.
It hasn't launched yet Dave, supposed to be this month.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Will keep an eye out for it. Thanks for the update.
How would you rate this against the xtool d1 pro?
I don't have a D1 Pro to compare it to, but this is a much more fully featured laser that conforms to Gcode standards at a better price point.
Have you tested the Ortur LEP 1.0 (Laser Engraving Platform) they have released? It's another $130 but they claim it increases performance over standard Honeycomb platforms. What are your thoughts?
I have not, however I have seen the videos, and I'm sure it's just the same as using elevation, something I've been preaching for a long time.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy It appears to be made up of straight slotted mini extrusions. The only thing I could see as a benefit was how the hold downs could be configured. I'm sure you are right about elevation being the key. The other thing they go on about is how the coverage allows the use of the entire work area. I'm tempted but the additional cost seems crazy when you compare it to others. $159.99 with a $20 off coupon comes out to it being a third of the cost of the machine itself. For that price I was thinking there had better be something more to it. You know? Thank you for replying
@@genesishep Yeah, it's more hype that functionality. Any honeycomb works if it's raised a half inch or so.
I wonder if having your air assist pump could pull smoke in and blow it out at the nozzle? Mine is mounted inside my enclosure and that thought occurred to me.
"Pump INSIDE THE ENCLOSURE
I don't think so.
Thanks for this video Rich. I have decided to go with this as my first laser. I really appreciate all your videos, your knowledge and mentorship through RUclips and your website.
Without a proper air assist nozzle, there is a whole lot of turbulence created in the eye protect that tends to draw smoke to the lens. This would account for your need to clean it daily. I see Ortur now comes with an air assist nozzle.
This is a great first laser Kiwi! I found a blockage in the air assist line, but it's cleared now and working like a dream!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Where was the blockage that you found? What flow rate is the air assist you are using? I'm constantly getting burn marks using the built-in air assist
Received my Laser Master 3 today. So excited to assemble and set to work.
Hope you enjoy it!
What do you think about the Comgrow air purifier?
It lacks an output to vent to the outdoors. It's okay for basic small jobs, but filtering to the same room sort of defeats the purpose. It'll filter the heavy smoke, but you'll still have the odors.
Thank you Rich, very good information.
Glad it was helpful!
Question - Can I save a gcode from my PC to an SD card and the take the SD card to the OLM3 and operate thru app? Alternatively, can I save file to SD while it’s in OLM3, start job from SD, then disconnect laptop?
Thanks
Some of the laser touch pads allow Gcode files from the SD card, but I haven't looked to see if the LM3 does.
Would the Atezr be one that allows direct burn from SD thru touchpad? Thanks for all your info.
Yes, I just tried it for you and it ran the Gcode perfectly.
Thanks so much! That’s a top priority for me.
Great video, like always. I looked for the cut library and didn't see it on your web page. Is it up yet?
Yup, it's there, on page 2 in Lightburn Cut & Engrave Settings (Diode Lasers) in the member's only section.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Sorry, didn't see a page 2. I have it now along with the LM3!
Looks like a good air assist nozzle would have no place to attach. Ortur should look at this and figure out a solution.
Yep, there are a couple out there that attach to the side, like the Comgrow.
The air assist on mine flows thru the nozzle as it should. Using the LU2-10A laser module. Should be the same as the LM3 uses.
@@parlen4620 It is... I think mine is clogged. I just noticed the little hole inside.
I bought my first laser engraver last week, a Lasermaster 3. Good seeing this video and that you put together a Library for this product. Thanks. Q: If the air assist is not going through the nozzle, what's the point of the nozzle? Is it better to go without it? I don't see it on your video but it maybe the angle of the shot. Maybe the lens would stay cleaner without it?
Good observation! I'll try that!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I'd be interested in the results. Currently working on building an enclosure with fume extraction so my LM3 got played with the first night and put away for a week now. I'll get it back out this weekend once the enclosure is finished.
If your LM3 is using the LU2-10A laser module then double check if you connected the air assist tube on the top correctly. My air assist definitely comes thru the nozzle as it should.
It's connected correctly. I might have a blockage somewhere.
Love your detail and way of checking for the advanced dot technology. Great and informative video as always
Thanks for watching Dave! I just got finished watching your video on the coffee table legs! Great stuff!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks for watching. I have made very little content over the last 3 or 4 years. I hope this will change soon
@@DavesCave Me too! You make good videos Dave!
Does the xTool RA2 Pro rotary work with the Ortur?
Yup!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Cool.
I bought the new LU2-10A laser for my LM2 PRO S2. The LU2-10A i have should be the same as the one that comes with the LM3. My air assist flows nicely thru the included nozzle. If you unscrew the nozzle and look on the inside next to the lens you should see a hole there. Thats where the air flows from the air assist and not from the sides as you described. I think your issue could be that you didn't plug the air assist tube on the top correctly. You have to really push it inside the hole a bunch so it connects.
Yes, good eye! However, my hose is plugged in correctly but the lens still gets very dirty, very quickly.
Hi Rich, I got my LM3 a few weeks ago so it should be the same as yours. My laser is a LU2-10-A-24V-22F18. I just checked the air assist and it does come out of the gray metal nozzle, if I block the nozzle off the air line pressure goes up and there is a small bit of air coming from somewhere inside the laser. I'm sure I don't use my laser as much as you use yours but after a few weeks my lens still looks clean. Thanks for all the work you do and the info you give us!
Yeah, I just noticed it Tom, thanks! I may have a blockage or something...
Boy are you an early riser.
RUclips scheduler 🤪
👍👍👍👍
Very informative.
Glad you liked it Lonnie!
On the laser where you can control the z axis. One will you be able to use the Laser Module from Vectric? If yes, do you know about how much it will cost and when it will be available for sale?
I have a HD3 shark and purchased a 2 Watt laser. Unfortunately, it does not work with the Laser Module for 3D cuts. Enjoyed your presentation, Thank you.
I don't know anything about Vectric Harvey.
Thank you for the quick response. I now switched to openBuilds and I'm hoping that I can find a laser that uses GRBL so that I can do 3D lasering. Take care. @@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy
dang it yoda now i really want this machine. i'm really excited about the yrr switch, wish i could put that on my lm2
🤪 Shopping time!
i am confused about the wifi having to be 2.5G. Everything is going to 5G and has already changed in my area. Are they going to have an upgrade to 5G?
You might be mixing up wireless technologies. Wi-Fi uses 2.4 GHz (e.g. Wireless-N) and 5 GHz (e.g Wireless-G). Cell networks are now largely 5G cellular. The LM3 is limited to 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. Most home routers still support 2.4 GHz and it generally has better range than 5 GHz but is also very crowded airspace in some heavily populated locations so use can be problematic. I would certainly have preferred that LM3 supported 5 Ghz but it is not a big deal that it is only 2.4 GHz. A lot of IoT devices are still 2.4 GHz so it will be a long time before it is no longer supported.
I know the difference, thanks. Most people just see 2.4 or 5GHz on their router, so this must be on the 2.4.
Great review, on my list to purchase
Good choice!
Thanks Rich for another great video.
I have the same module on my LMPro 2, I've noticed that if you stop air assist the laser output looks brighter, any ideas why?
I really don't know Rob. I did find out that there is a small hole where the air comes into the nozzle, but it still gets really dirty, really quick.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks Rich, as you mentioned they seem to get dirty quick, so check and clean seems to be the way to go.