Good tip - I think I'll try cedar mulch around my hives this year and see if it makes a difference. I also have my hives oriented in various directions. While I understand the argument and reasoning for placement and orientation in a certain direction, like you I have mine facing multiple directions, positioned for best access, and I also don't notice a significant decline in productivity for those which are not facing east or south.
I run solid bottom boards and made a ventilation/feeder box on top where I can regulate the airflow as the weather changes. You may consider a slatted rack over your screen bottom to help diffuse the draft. My hives are on a wood rack and I used pine mulch that has turned to soil, I intend to use bags of Cypress for weed suppression as it breaks down very slowly. Other hives are placed on block just like yours along a pasture fence and I don't mind mowing once a month as needed.
I normally keep the slats in my screen boards these days. I only remove them in the summer when we hit 100-degree days if the hive is bearding excessively.
Great advice and I really like what you have to say about screen vs. no screen bottom boards. Very interesting! I have all screened bottoms for ease of oxalic acid vaporization and also summer heat, but I’ve noticed some of my hives no longer use the bottom box. Maybe that’s why.
Thanks for watching & for the feedback. If they avoid the bottom box during times when they should be using it (summer), it could certainly be a factor. If you give solids a try during similar conditions & see a change, I’d love to hear about it.
Great video! Just found your channel and subscribed. I really like your cardboard and mulch beetle control method. And interesting insight on screen vs. solid bottom boards. Thanks for sharing!
@@mikeoxlong3224 I agree. I’ve never purchased replacement bees. I bought the first 2 nucs I ever started with. After that, just splits, swarms & hive removals.
If u lost a 2 hives to hive beetles it because your watching rookie context from this no nothing guy. I got stung up and dint even crack the lid experience.
If you are asking about the stands, I use 1 & a half 18-inch pavers under cinder blocks to keep them from sinking into the black clay soil. Then, just cardboard & cedar around the hives.
I try to refresh the cedar at least every 2 years. (Depends on how the mulch holds up over time.) If the cardboard and most of the mulch are decomposed, I’ll rake it aside & reapply cardboard. But, I’ve had similar success with just reapplying fresh mulch each season like it a flower bed. All mulch will lose its oils over time from sun & rain. So, it’s good to replenish.
He doesn't right after his weak hive dies and then needs to justify some idea of why his neglected hive is toast. U don't really believe a dead tree can keep bugs at bay do u.
I would think cypress would work well too. I know it has similar characteristics in repelling some insects, and I believe it mattes together better than cedar. The only potential downside I've seen is that some cypress may attract termites (mostly if it contains sapwood). But, I'm not sure if that is a common issue or not.
I use red cedar chips on the ground and in my moisture boxes . I also coat the ground under the cedar chips with diatomaceous earth (food grade) , I still use at least one hive beetle trap inside the hive baited with a small chunk of pollen substitute patty. I bought seven 25# compressed bales of red cedar chips and plan on buying more to keep in stock . I’m praying that Virginia has a strong spring flow to help me with making at least ten early splits.
I hope you get a good flow this year. Last year was tough (dry and hot) in our area. So far this year is starting pretty mildly. Bees are already wanting to forage and raise brood.
I generally agree. For our yards, it has more to do with wind exposure if there isn’t a break. After all - bees in a tree cavity don’t necessarily choose it based on the direction the hole faces.
TREATED SLEEPER BLOCKS ON EDGE 4 INS BUNDY LOAM SAND TEE TREE MULCH TO FINISH OFF WITH THE BEETLES HATE THE STUFF SHIT LOL LAST 10 YEARS NEVER SEEN ONE.
An older gentleman told me that he used recycled metal sheeting under his beehives and he never had an issues with beetles. He was a beekeeper for 21 years. Just a thought but I am new to beekeeping so.....
If you’re talking about putting it down as sheeting below the hives, I could see that working well. Basically, eliminating dirt/soil under the hives to help diminish beetles from pupating.
Hello just found your video. I run all screen bottoms and screen top inter covers an love them both an have never had any problems with the bees not wanting to pull comb . I know everyone is different so what ever works for you than that is what that person should use . I am in central NC . You may try those slated rack on your hives that the bees will not work the bottom brood box . I hear a lot of good things about them but I have never tried them. Good luck an have fun with your Bees . THANKS
Hi Kathy. Thanks for commenting. I use both screened & solid bottom boards and have had success with both depending on the characteristics of the bees. Some are content with the ventilation and draw fine. Some don’t. Your note makes sense, since I imagine that genetics & characteristics of bees may vary by region. I imagine temps + humidity levels may be a bit different in NC as well. Trying a slatted rack for some who don’t want to draw that far down is a good idea. Generally, I try not to buy specialty gear too much. But, I think Fred Dunn uses slatted racks quite a bit. If I can snag a few used racks cheap somewhere I may give that a test. I appreciate you watching our content! I can’t wait for spring to get here. I go through withdrawals over winter.
@@mikeoxlong3224 It worked for me and it worked for others. I placed it all around the inside perimeter of the bottom board and in the corners of hive body and no hive beetles after 2 weeks. I can not think of another reason they would leave.
@@redbone5363 Bees already collect propolis. The stronger your hive the more bees to do misc jobs. In two weeks a lot of bees can hatch covering 4 additional frames. driving hive beetles out. Better way to deal with hive beetle is threw minimal feeding and pollen substitute to keep hives on the up and up
It appears you’re on here to troll. But, for my regular viewers, I thought there were some important things to address. Wax moths aren’t generally a problem for strong hives. But, hive beetles will be a problem anywhere the humidity is tolerable for them. Hive beetles even have mechanisms to trick strong colonies inside to feed them during certain times of the year. So, the idea that a strong colony prevents hive beetles is false. It can help. But, that doesn’t make it “best.” There are many ways to approach the problem, and the method in this video is only one of several that I employ. Regarding wearing a bee suit - those sorts of of quips aren’t productive conversation and typify the petty arguments of beekeepers who think their way is the only way. I look forward to your video on your channel showing how you keep bees.
If I decide to ever make videos it won't be an amateur video which lacks info. When I started bee keeping I was wasting lots of time trying to understand what peoe.were saying that don't even understand beekeeping fully themselves. I'm just saying u should be a pro then make education bee keeping videos. Anyone who doesn't buy package bees ever year to keep things going looks at your video and what do they say.. just amazing for beekeeper knowledge? They can't tell me he difference. Like I said strong hives solves a lot of beekeeping problems and puts on suit doesn't crack a hive I guess shows your kinda amateur.
Good tip - I think I'll try cedar mulch around my hives this year and see if it makes a difference. I also have my hives oriented in various directions. While I understand the argument and reasoning for placement and orientation in a certain direction, like you I have mine facing multiple directions, positioned for best access, and I also don't notice a significant decline in productivity for those which are not facing east or south.
Let me know how the cedar works out for you.
I run solid bottom boards and made a ventilation/feeder box on top where I can regulate the airflow as the weather changes. You may consider a slatted rack over your screen bottom to help diffuse the draft. My hives are on a wood rack and I used pine mulch that has turned to soil, I intend to use bags of Cypress for weed suppression as it breaks down very slowly. Other hives are placed on block just like yours along a pasture fence and I don't mind mowing once a month as needed.
I normally keep the slats in my screen boards these days. I only remove them in the summer when we hit 100-degree days if the hive is bearding excessively.
Thanks. The cedar mulch could be a game-changer up here in Michigan... I'm going to try it next spring!
I look forward to hearing how it works out for you.
All the people talking this is a game changer are just showing they are rookie beekeepers like this poster is.
Great advice and I really like what you have to say about screen vs. no screen bottom boards. Very interesting! I have all screened bottoms for ease of oxalic acid vaporization and also summer heat, but I’ve noticed some of my hives no longer use the bottom box. Maybe that’s why.
Thanks for watching & for the feedback. If they avoid the bottom box during times when they should be using it (summer), it could certainly be a factor. If you give solids a try during similar conditions & see a change, I’d love to hear about it.
Not good advice and anyone with a bit of experience can see that
Great video! Just found your channel and subscribed. I really like your cardboard and mulch beetle control method. And interesting insight on screen vs. solid bottom boards. Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure! Thank you for subscribing!
Don't take advice from a beekeeper that buys replacement bees every year
@@mikeoxlong3224 I agree. I’ve never purchased replacement bees. I bought the first 2 nucs I ever started with. After that, just splits, swarms & hive removals.
Great vdo i lost 2 hives to beetles. I will try this method. Ty
Sorry to hear you lost some hives. That always stings a bit.
If u lost a 2 hives to hive beetles it because your watching rookie context from this no nothing guy. I got stung up and dint even crack the lid experience.
That's really good to know, thank you!!
Thanks for watching our channel.
What's good to know?
I like your idea. I use cardboard but did not have the cedar. What do you have on the ground directily under the hive?
If you are asking about the stands, I use 1 & a half 18-inch pavers under cinder blocks to keep them from sinking into the black clay soil. Then, just cardboard & cedar around the hives.
Great info Sir, thanks!
Thanks for watching & commenting.
Do u believe everything u see and hear?
Great video, how often and when do you typically do this technique?
I try to refresh the cedar at least every 2 years. (Depends on how the mulch holds up over time.) If the cardboard and most of the mulch are decomposed, I’ll rake it aside & reapply cardboard. But, I’ve had similar success with just reapplying fresh mulch each season like it a flower bed. All mulch will lose its oils over time from sun & rain. So, it’s good to replenish.
He doesn't right after his weak hive dies and then needs to justify some idea of why his neglected hive is toast. U don't really believe a dead tree can keep bugs at bay do u.
Do you think cypress would work as well as cedar?
I would think cypress would work well too. I know it has similar characteristics in repelling some insects, and I believe it mattes together better than cedar. The only potential downside I've seen is that some cypress may attract termites (mostly if it contains sapwood). But, I'm not sure if that is a common issue or not.
@@macbeebuzzin thank you for your information, keep up your good works.
I use red cedar chips on the ground and in my moisture boxes . I also coat the ground under the cedar chips with diatomaceous earth (food grade) , I still use at least one hive beetle trap inside the hive baited with a small chunk of pollen substitute patty. I bought seven 25# compressed bales of red cedar chips and plan on buying more to keep in stock . I’m praying that Virginia has a strong spring flow to help me with making at least ten early splits.
I hope you get a good flow this year. Last year was tough (dry and hot) in our area. So far this year is starting pretty mildly. Bees are already wanting to forage and raise brood.
In southern states it is less particular which direction the doors are pointing as we are hot or warm 24 hrs a day
I generally agree. For our yards, it has more to do with wind exposure if there isn’t a break. After all - bees in a tree cavity don’t necessarily choose it based on the direction the hole faces.
Another rookie beekeeper preaching like a guy who has lots to learn. Keep buying packages
TREATED SLEEPER BLOCKS ON EDGE 4 INS BUNDY LOAM SAND TEE TREE MULCH TO FINISH OFF WITH THE BEETLES HATE THE STUFF SHIT LOL LAST 10 YEARS NEVER SEEN ONE.
An older gentleman told me that he used recycled metal sheeting under his beehives and he never had an issues with beetles. He was a beekeeper for 21 years. Just a thought but I am new to beekeeping so.....
If you’re talking about putting it down as sheeting below the hives, I could see that working well. Basically, eliminating dirt/soil under the hives to help diminish beetles from pupating.
Yes that is exactly what he said to do.
Hello just found your video. I run all screen bottoms and screen top inter covers an love them both an have never had any problems with the bees not wanting to pull comb . I know everyone is different so what ever works for you than that is what that person should use . I am in central NC . You may try those slated rack on your hives that the bees will not work the bottom brood box . I hear a lot of good things about them but I have never tried them. Good luck an have fun with your Bees . THANKS
Hi Kathy. Thanks for commenting. I use both screened & solid bottom boards and have had success with both depending on the characteristics of the bees. Some are content with the ventilation and draw fine. Some don’t. Your note makes sense, since I imagine that genetics & characteristics of bees may vary by region. I imagine temps + humidity levels may be a bit different in NC as well. Trying a slatted rack for some who don’t want to draw that far down is a good idea. Generally, I try not to buy specialty gear too much. But, I think Fred Dunn uses slatted racks quite a bit. If I can snag a few used racks cheap somewhere I may give that a test. I appreciate you watching our content! I can’t wait for spring to get here. I go through withdrawals over winter.
I don't know how it works, maybe the peppermint oil but hard peppermint candy keeps the hive beetles out.
I’ll definitely be giving this a try this season. I know Hillbilly swears by it, and it’s good to have multiple tools in the arsenal.
It doesn't work. This guy is just full of it.
@@mikeoxlong3224 It worked for me and it worked for others. I placed it all around the inside perimeter of the bottom board and in the corners of hive body and no hive beetles after 2 weeks. I can not think of another reason they would leave.
@@redbone5363 Bees already collect propolis. The stronger your hive the more bees to do misc jobs. In two weeks a lot of bees can hatch covering 4 additional frames. driving hive beetles out. Better way to deal with hive beetle is threw minimal feeding and pollen substitute to keep hives on the up and up
@@mikeoxlong3224 Could be but I am going to leave it in.
You forgot a strong hive is best remedy. If hive beetles are a problem then something is off in your hive. Wears bee suit and doesn't crack hive!
It appears you’re on here to troll. But, for my regular viewers, I thought there were some important things to address. Wax moths aren’t generally a problem for strong hives. But, hive beetles will be a problem anywhere the humidity is tolerable for them. Hive beetles even have mechanisms to trick strong colonies inside to feed them during certain times of the year. So, the idea that a strong colony prevents hive beetles is false. It can help. But, that doesn’t make it “best.” There are many ways to approach the problem, and the method in this video is only one of several that I employ. Regarding wearing a bee suit - those sorts of of quips aren’t productive conversation and typify the petty arguments of beekeepers who think their way is the only way. I look forward to your video on your channel showing how you keep bees.
If I decide to ever make videos it won't be an amateur video which lacks info. When I started bee keeping I was wasting lots of time trying to understand what peoe.were saying that don't even understand beekeeping fully themselves. I'm just saying u should be a pro then make education bee keeping videos. Anyone who doesn't buy package bees ever year to keep things going looks at your video and what do they say.. just amazing for beekeeper knowledge? They can't tell me he difference. Like I said strong hives solves a lot of beekeeping problems and puts on suit doesn't crack a hive I guess shows your kinda amateur.
I do appreciate that you find me interesting enough to return to my channel though. Cheers to successful beekeeping!
Looking forward to your queen rearing videos. Your such a pro u can show us u at least know that. Right?
@@mikeoxlong3224 Be sure to hit that like & subscribe button for future content. Your regular table is ready in the corner.