Topcon IC-1 Auto - 1970s Film Camera - Shooting Outdated Film
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
- I got this Topcon IC-1 Auto as part of a job lot of film cameras, I quite liked the look of it, so I rushed it onto the repair bench and got it up and running - I also got a roll of outdated Kodak Gold 200 ISO film that had been jammed in a Praktica camera and never used, so I figured I'd put the two together to see how they performed. There is a bit of a risk using unknown old film - if it's been stored well, it can keep for years, but if someone has kept it next to a radiator for 20 years, it might not be much good at all.
I really enjoyed using the IC-1 Auto, so much so, so much so that I broke my golden rule of only shooting one film before examining the results - as it happens, one of the shutter curtains is dragging a little bit, so I will be doing a full strip down once I've finished the current roll of film, luckily it's not too serious, and the shots are more or less fine.
Film used in the Topcon: Outdated Kodak Gold 200 shot as 50 ISO
Start 00:00
History & Model Variants 00:38
Camera Details 01:50
Faults & Repairs 02:36
Controls 03:52
The Outdated Film 06:48
The Gallery 08:10
Summary 11:05
Outro 11:38
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Outro Music
"As Yet Untitled"
by GrumpyTim (available to download from GrumpyTim's Bandcamp page)
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Additional Music
"Fallout Zone"
by GrumpyTim (available to download from GrumpyTim's Bandcamp Page)
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www.grumpytim.com 
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That's awesome, cheers.
Great video, the outdated film goes well with the older cars!
Cheers ohjajohh, the outdated film worked well on this occasion - instant vintage look, no additional tweaking required!!! I'd like to stumble across a bulk pack of old film for no money, then I could use the first roll to dial in the best settings before happily shooting the rest - ebay isn't the place to buy outdate film, some of it seems to sell for crazy prices.
Well done! Another camera fixed! Perhaps you ought to offer a camera servicing service for people with sentimentally important cameras.
Cheers Ben, I do a few repairs for other people - not sure yet if I want to offer it as a service, there could be many complications - I'd certainly want to talk to anyone before embarking on work, because there's always a chance it might all go wrong.....
@@GrumpyTim Certainly true.
Greetings! Do you know how one could go about recalibrating the internal lightmeter so it that the camera would meter accurately using modern LR44 batteries?
Hi Bruno, if I remember correctly, there aren't any pots (potentiometers / variable resistors) to mess with on the IC-1 - I think the only pots on the circuit board are to do with shutter timing and so on, so they're best left alone. There are some fixed resistors on a separate board that deal with the light meter, and I think you'd need to substitute different values until the meter read correctly - I might have a look at mine one day, but it's still got film in it at the moment.
In theory the LR44 isn't quite as good for things like old style light meters, because it's voltage tends to start an about 1.6 volts and then gradually fade throughout it's life, whereas the old mercury cells tended to be fairly stable in voltage. However, the CDS cells used in the light meters often become less sensitive over the years, so the additional voltage when an LR44 is new might even help it to read correctly.
I would be inclined to try the camera with a pair of LR44s and compare it's readings to a trusted source (either a light meter that you know is good, or use a DSLR or mirrorless). If you take readings off a blank subject such as a wall with your DSLR set to the same ISO as your IC-1 and see how they compare. Then try readings from a clear bit of sky (not pointing anywhere near the sun, because that can skew the results). And finally try some readings in lower light such as a shaded wall - if the IC-1 is consistently over or under reading, you could simply adjust the ISO on that camera until the readings were about right, and make a note so you know to compensate every time you change the film speed. The light meters in old cameras like the IC-1 aren't much good in low light such as dim indoor scenes, so I wouldn't get too worried if it doesn't read those correctly.
Finally, the CDS cells are located at the back of the prism, and often the prism, focusing screen, mirror and so on get dirty over time, and this will reduce the amount of light that gets to the CDS cell, again skewing the results. If you do ever clean these, be very careful cleaning them, particularly the mirror and focusing screen - most focusing screens are plastic and if you start cleaning them with something like alcohol, you can actually damage them, making focusing difficult. The mirrors are silvered on the top surface rather than on the bottom like a normal mirror, so they can easily be scratched.