Great video. I just replace my pump diaphragms but the pump still wasn't working. Watched your video and went and reset the switch and the pump works perfectly. Saved me having to buy a new pump for $400! Well done.
Mine went out and i rebuilt it using a kit. What no one told me was the "screw" on top was a breaker and i had to align the slot with the arrow. Once I did that it worked. Only took about 20 minutes.
Mine came on & worked for an hour or so. I took it apart again and it looked like the new diaphragms were already warping around the edges! I bought a Hiblow XP 80 instead. It is replacing the Hiblow HP 80. I don’t see where there is a place for the air tube on the XP though.
My new unit stopped working after 3 years and after troubleshooting it I found the safety screw diaphragms broken. I bought new ones and the unit only lasted a few weeks. I took it apart and the screw isn't broken, diaphragms were fine but on one side the screw came off and appears to be melted and the washer was broken in 3 pieces and seemed like the inside of that diaphragm was melted. Not sure what caused that and if I will need a new unit?
Thanks for this video , I just fix my unit but was used to the scew type. I had replaced my aerator like 3 years ago and this new unit split the diagphams. So I got 3 years out of the unit. My aerator sits under a big concrete cast shield. Do you think this is causing the hiblow80 to get two hot? I see other systems where the aeratopr is sitting out in the open. So I'm assuming they will run much cooler.
Test where actually done couple years ago and we sent some housing for aerators and out in the open was actually the best result followed by a open on both ends cover. None of the aerator manufacturers actually know who started the cover idea but it wasn’t a good one. On the old rotary vane units it was but in diaphragm units it’s not necessary.
I have the slide switch unit. At times the unit would shut off and the alarm sounds. I checked the diaphragms and they are okay. The switch button is aligned and depressed as if in the run mode. I tapped the switch with the handle of of a screw driver and the unit started running. Assuming the switch may be faulty, I replaced just the switch. With the new switch installed the aerated shut off again after running for a few hours. I used the screw driver trick again and it started running again... for a few hours. The alarm comes on. What could be causing this on-off-on scenario? I purchased extra switches just in case.
@@majorsounds Just buy a wall plug timer from the hardware store and connect the pump. Bear in mind, your septic will start to smell if you don't have enough aeration.
www.wholesalesepticsupply.com/products/hiblow-top-safety-switch-assembly-with-screw www.wholesalesepticsupply.com/products/hiblow-sw03-slide-switch Two different kinds of
No if it broke the diaphragm is tore as well. Screw comes with the kit to fix the unit. I have yet to see a screw broke on a running unit and the diaphragm no needing to be replaced.
Hi , i have a hiblow HP-80 that i got from you guys and it only lasted 4 years and the diaphragms ruptured so i changed them and now onces it's fixed (with new diaphangms) the pump will stop after two hours of running and the core is blazzing hot. can you help me out ..Thanks
I tried the cheap Chinese diaphragms from ebay and they lasted about 3 days. The rubber goes rock-hard and it doesn't pump air causing the pump to overheat. I replaced them with genuine diaphragms and it worked for about another week. Then the actuator rod broke in half, no doubt from the stress caused by the inflexible rubber in the cheap diaphragms. The genuine parts are a total rip off, but they are the only ones that use epdm rubber.
@@arnaldo35 the Chinese ones are epdm it’s just that there is thousands of different kinds of epdm. The units run 24/7 and flex 30 times a second that’s 946,080,000 a year that’s roughly 2-4 billion times in there average life. Just cleaning the air filter and sometimes not even that. Cheaper than a moth on city sewer so it all depends on how you look at it.
Thank you, I had changed the Diaphragms and was puzzled at why it was not working... Fixed it in 5 minutes after watching your video!
Best vedio yet. All the others showed the older version. So thank you, thank you, thank you. I thought I was from another planet 😊
Great video. I just replace my pump diaphragms but the pump still wasn't working. Watched your video and went and reset the switch and the pump works perfectly. Saved me having to buy a new pump for $400! Well done.
Thanks for your help! Knowing about the plastic safety switch just fixed my Hiblow!
So glad the video helped you.
You’re awesome. I learned something new and got my unit running after watching this.
Thank you our goal is to educate people on each individual part.
Great video and did a great job explaining everything.
Thanks for the video, really helped me out and was about to buy a new unit but only needed to order a replacement kit👍
Mine went out and i rebuilt it using a kit. What no one told me was the "screw" on top was a breaker and i had to align the slot with the arrow. Once I did that it worked. Only took about 20 minutes.
What if the white lever does not stay in place? Can that be replaced?
Thanks for the help
Mine came on & worked for an hour or so. I took it apart again and it looked like the new diaphragms were already warping around the edges! I bought a Hiblow XP 80 instead. It is replacing the Hiblow HP 80. I don’t see where there is a place for the air tube on the XP though.
Possible you bought a fake rebuild kit. The real ones will be engraved on the diaphragm and chamber block.
Great video, thanks
Maybe I missed it but model and brand you are working on in the video?
Any links to the safety switch and diaphragm kits? I have that exact unit.
My new unit stopped working after 3 years and after troubleshooting it I found the safety screw diaphragms broken. I bought new ones and the unit only lasted a few weeks. I took it apart and the screw isn't broken, diaphragms were fine but on one side the screw came off and appears to be melted and the washer was broken in 3 pieces and seemed like the inside of that diaphragm was melted. Not sure what caused that and if I will need a new unit?
@@amazinggrace_82 would have to see pictures of it you can send them to the office phone if you would like.
Thanks for this video , I just fix my unit but was used to the scew type. I had replaced my aerator like 3 years ago and this new unit split the diagphams. So I got 3 years out of the unit. My aerator sits under a big concrete cast shield. Do you think this is causing the hiblow80 to get two hot?
I see other systems where the aeratopr is sitting out in the open. So I'm assuming they will run much cooler.
Test where actually done couple years ago and we sent some housing for aerators and out in the open was actually the best result followed by a open on both ends cover. None of the aerator manufacturers actually know who started the cover idea but it wasn’t a good one. On the old rotary vane units it was but in diaphragm units it’s not necessary.
I have the slide switch unit. At times the unit would shut off and the alarm sounds. I checked the diaphragms and they are okay. The switch button is aligned and depressed as if in the run mode. I tapped the switch with the handle of of a screw driver and the unit started running. Assuming the switch may be faulty, I replaced just the switch. With the new switch installed the aerated shut off again after running for a few hours. I used the screw driver trick again and it started running again... for a few hours. The alarm comes on. What could be causing this on-off-on scenario? I purchased extra switches just in case.
@@charlesbooth3799 fold up a business card and push it into were the switch is that should solve it.
What turns the Aerator on and off? Does it stay on 24 hours a day?
Yep, 24 hrs unless you use a timer.
@@arnaldo35 is there a video that shows how to setup with a timer?
@@majorsounds Just buy a wall plug timer from the hardware store and connect the pump. Bear in mind, your septic will start to smell if you don't have enough aeration.
Can you provide the link of the replacement slide switch I’m trying to find it on y’all website but I can’t seem to find it
www.wholesalesepticsupply.com/products/hiblow-top-safety-switch-assembly-with-screw
www.wholesalesepticsupply.com/products/hiblow-sw03-slide-switch
Two different kinds of
The plastic screw broke on mine can i replace it with a regular screw
No if it broke the diaphragm is tore as well. Screw comes with the kit to fix the unit. I have yet to see a screw broke on a running unit and the diaphragm no needing to be replaced.
Video didnt show how to replace the magnet diaphragm.
We have a different video for that.
Hi , i have a hiblow HP-80 that i got from you guys and it only lasted 4 years and the diaphragms ruptured so i changed them and now onces it's fixed (with new diaphangms) the pump will stop after two hours of running and the core is blazzing hot. can you help me out ..Thanks
Where did you get the kit. If it wasn’t from a hiblow dealer you might have got a fake kit. You could need a new diffuser as well.
I tried the cheap Chinese diaphragms from ebay and they lasted about 3 days. The rubber goes rock-hard and it doesn't pump air causing the pump to overheat. I replaced them with genuine diaphragms and it worked for about another week. Then the actuator rod broke in half, no doubt from the stress caused by the inflexible rubber in the cheap diaphragms. The genuine parts are a total rip off, but they are the only ones that use epdm rubber.
@@arnaldo35 the Chinese ones are epdm it’s just that there is thousands of different kinds of epdm. The units run 24/7 and flex 30 times a second that’s 946,080,000 a year that’s roughly 2-4 billion times in there average life. Just cleaning the air filter and sometimes not even that. Cheaper than a moth on city sewer so it all depends on how you look at it.
@@arnaldo35 the Chinese ones probably ruined the unit.