The only product I swear by is the Mos2 !!! Which was actually designed for use in propeller airplane engines in case of an oil pressure loss to prevent engine seizure It’s a well known friction modifier
@@HH-wh1xtyou’re better off ordering the mos2 from liquimoly as it’s got the correct amount of mos2 for an engine, to do it yourself would be difficult to know how much powered to mix with mineral oil
The can does not say shake well before using. The Moly is in suspension that's why. It sticks to the can walls and bottom. Keep adding oil and shaking to get the most of it out.
It should be that's true, but there was a lot at the bottom of the can. Adding oil and shaking is certainly what worked for me to get the rest of it out.
Acreditem o MOS2 é o único que cumpre com sua promessa de redutor de atritos de todos os outros do mercado, sendo assim o melhor aditivo de óleo usado desde a segunda guerra mundial!Sua dica foi muito boa para não desperdício do MOS2!😊
Yep that would work too. The main thing is that now you're aware it's there, when I poured it in I didn't realize how much of the active ingredient had settled to the bottom
Could have scraped the bottom of the can lightly with a screwdriver to loosen it up as well. Also wanted to mention I've used many friction reducing add to oil products over the last 30+ years, they were mostly off the shelf products. The only product that I found that truly worked / works well is Petro Tech 2000. Quite remarkable & quite noticeable results. Most noticeable was the increase in power & reduced noise of noisy gearbox & wheel bearings.
@@TheMusingGreg Can be found on gumtree Australia at Mayfield East NSW, with the FPC / FTC CONCENTRATE & also RMI-25. All the world's number 1 products for decades, that work as claimed, & still nothing today comes close to them.
OK thanks. Odd that they're so little heard of and hard to get hold of if they work so well. You would imagine they'd be more readily available than Gumtree. Though I know the original Slick 50 (xcelplus) is hard to get hold of these days too.
BEST one I've ever found is (the ORIGINAL) Slick 50 (now sold as Xcelplus). Treated my 1992 Subaru Brumby (bought new) after being run in. It WORKS. (ps, it's a "once off" / lifetime treatment, not an additive). Takes a while (full oil change duration) to bed in, but once it does - WOW. 2 things become glaring: startup - much quicker and easier, and it revs HIGH for the first second or so until the oil circulates and calms things down. The second is heat - it takes a LONG time for the engine to warm up. This is actually a drawback in the winter cold, I had to run the car at least 10 mins before I could start to defrost the windscreen (negating fuel savings from a more efficient engine!). Sold it after 16 years with 330,000 kms on it - still didn't use any oil and had never had a failure of any sort. I regret NOT treating the Holden VZ Commodore I replaced it with - at only 220,000 kms it has reduced performance, timing chain stretch, and burns 1.5 litres oil per 1,000 kms. Oh, the real kicker? A mechanic told me what a great engine the Brumby's had - you could get "up to" 200,000 kms before needing an engine rebuild :)
@@OhSoddit Petro Tech 2000 was the real original, even before Bishop's Slick 50. The Petro Tech 2000 is even better & withstands temp up to 2400 C. Around since 1972. Can be found on gumtree Australia at Mayfield East NSW. Almost sold out. The maker has retired & there'll be no more avail soon.
Thanks Greg your a Champ I very much trust your work and appreciate the musing. I think very highly of Moly Products and find that a little disappointing about the sludge. I swear by the "Boost and clean" and "Engine Flush" but this one...snake oil or not? Just don't want to throw money were it could be better spent on good maintenance. From memory "Project Farm' Channel tested it with limited results unfortunately. Have a Pajero as well and flush every second change keeps the oil very clean for an extended period, can barely read it on the stick. Pooh myself sometimes when I pull it out and see nothing. FYI Worth noting that I have Wired EGR Block and catch can, doing oil change @ 7- 10,000km depending on usage.
Thanks Jamie, glad you're enjoying the content! The sludge isn't surprising in one sense; they say shake well and I guess if you shook it well enough for long enough it would fix it. But for most people I reckon 'shake well' might mean 'shake for 10-20 seconds' which isn't going to be close to what's needed. This video isn't looking at the efficacy of the products, though as I said to another commenter I'm also very interested in that and is actually why I originally bought the ceratec. I have this on my list but it needs a dyno to do that properly. Project Farm has done a heap of good videos, in particular the engine oils shootout. I don't remember one on this or engine flush, but I wouldn't be surprised if he's done them. I agree I don't mind spending money on products that work but I also don't want to waste money on something that does nothing. Stay tuned, and thanks for the support!
@@TheMusingGreg Project farm only covered the friction reducer, not the flush sorry Greg. Absolutely appreciate your excellent attention to detail, and information/evidence gained. Thanks Greg I'll be watching.
Cool OK thanks I might check out what he's already done first - knowing his channel I'm guessing it's a lubricity test which is a useful point of reference. If he's already covered the topic well enough there's no point me repeating it.
Yeah I'm very interested in this too and have been for a long time. Unfortunately there are so many variations in normal driving conditions that the only fair way to test that objectively is with a dyno and a vehicle which hasn't recently had a product like this through it. I'm hoping to line this up in the future but it'll take a bit of organising
I’ve owned my petrol 1FZ-FE 80 series Landcruiser since new 1993 and after 5,000k’s started using Nulon long term engine treatment, until just recently where I’ve switched to Liqui Moly Ceratec. I’ve used 2 bottles every couple of years or so regardless of mileage. I still have my 80 series and I’m around 8,000k’s short of half a million kilometres. My 80 series has taken me all around the country and gets driven very hard. (Has a uni chip and a set of ceramic coated Performance brand headers and a high flow stainless exhaust) still to this day goes harder than any normally aspirated 1FZ-FE I’ve seen. I had the head off in 2003 after towing a trailer to Cape York and back as no.6 cylinder was sucking in coolant. No other major mechanical works have been done on this engine. So if anyone is in doubt about any of these engine protection products, I think they’re worth their weight in gold. Note: For the life of the 80 I used Mobil 1 fully synthetic engine oil (I now use Penrite) every 6 months regardless of mileage. Hope this has been helpful.
I used a mos2 friction reducer on my motorcycle about 3 months ago. It's a Triumph Tiger 800 from 2014 and i put about 60k on the odo. It's also a three cylinder, so a very smooth engine. Doesn't have the 'knock' of a 2 cylinder engine (think Harley Davidson, where you clearly hear the individual combustions of the engine). It's closer to a race car in sound. 50% more combustions per crankshaft turn is what makes it smooth. Anyway, so I used some mos2 and right from the first ride it felt like i knocked 50k off the odo. The bike felt new again, the engine ran very smoothly. Purred, almost. Makes sense, it's a Tiger. It's starting to get cold outside and i commute in the winter. The engine usually runs rougher the closer you get to freezing temperatures (because it takes longer for the bike to really warm up than it takes me to get to work). This year I've noticed none of that so far. We're not at zero degrees yet but at 6°, it felt the same as it did on the hottest summer days. So I'm all in on team mos2 now. Great for making the engine feel new again and great for having a smooth engine in the winter. I'm gonna put some mos2 in our SUV as well and i expect similar results for the engine. Probably not gonna feel the change to the same extent because i'm not as close to the engine as i am on the bike, but it feels like it's good for the engine. So yeah, it works.
Supposedly, yes. Ceratec claims to last longer - 50,000kms vs next oil change. And ceramic may be a better additive than Molybdenum. But it's also more expensive. So whether it's better value depends if your can get it for less than about 3x the price.
@@TheMusingGreg I got it for $27 USD. I change my oil every 5k miles so that would be worth it since Ceratec lasts 30k miles. That’s 6 oil changes and would cost me $51 worth of MoS2.
@@GokuInstinct1 Yep it's worth it for that price! Note that the 50k (not 60k sorry, there is conflicting information from Liqui Moly) service life of Ceratec is based on 5L of oil, so for a bigger engine you'd need more than one bottle of Ceratec.
@@TheMusingGreg yea I did look at that and my engine uses 6.8 quarts of oil. I’d have to take that into account but honestly I’d be fine going 30k between using the product since I maintain the car well and it’s a reliable Lexus.
@@GokuInstinct1 Yep sounds like a plan mate! Hope it works well for you! Just make sure to give it a good old shake before use to get all that ceramic goodness into the donk!
I wonder if this moly additive in any way interacts with the additive package that is in all (or nearly all) oils these days. You'd really hope they're compatible.
Yeah it's a fair question. These additives always say things like "compatible with all oils", but obviously they don't know what's in each oil. I guess they must have tested it though as it could be expensive for them if it caused blockages or reactions!
Hi mate, yes that's the combination I use. The main reasons I still use Penrite motor oils are that 1) I've always used Penrite and I know what container size and type to buy so it's easy to just stick to what I know, 2) Liqui Moly motor oil hasn't been available in Australia for that long so it's not crossed my radar, and 3) having looked at it now, Liqui Moly is extremely expensive, close to double the cost of Penrite which itself is an expensive oil.
200ml over the full line isn't very much and I wouldn't be worried about adding it now if the oil level is up to the full line on on the dipstick. But if you're concerned just wait until the engine has burnt a bit of oil and then add the product.
In that case great timing for watching the video! If I hadn't stumbled across this myself, there's a good chance half the product would have gone straight in the bin!
@@TheMusingGreg Thanks for your video. I’ll make sure not to waste any leftovers in the can! Greg, you’re the best ! 😉 We’re not gonna let that sludge get us! Best regards, Greg C.
Yeah Liqui-Moly's holding up well in the various tests I've done so far that's for sure! I'd like to do an objective test of a friction reducer at some stage.
@@Apegabe Thanks mate. I actually have a tendency to speak fast when I'm trying to work out what to say on the spot, which is one reason I usually narrate my longer videos from a script where I can get everything right beforehand and then take my time. I guess this is the raw version! 😄
It depends Mike. If it's all nicely mixed up, then I'm not worried about a few ml either. But you might have poured mainly the carrier fluid into the engine and left all the friction reducer at the bottom of the can!
Fair enough. Maybe mine had been sitting for a while but there was a lot of sediment in the bottom of mine. That said I just added some more Ceratec to mine and I didn't have as much of an issue
The only product I swear by is the Mos2 !!! Which was actually designed for use in propeller airplane engines in case of an oil pressure loss to prevent engine seizure
It’s a well known friction modifier
Thanks for the tip!
How to use if one DIY can get the powder MOS2
@@HH-wh1xtyou’re better off ordering the mos2 from liquimoly as it’s got the correct amount of mos2 for an engine, to do it yourself would be difficult to know how much powered to mix with mineral oil
What about their Ceratec? It's supposed to be an upgraded version that lasts 30k miles.
@@GokuInstinct1 don’t know to much about it to say man !! I know that mos2 works
The can does not say shake well before using. The Moly is in suspension that's why. It sticks to the can walls and bottom. Keep adding oil and shaking to get the most of it out.
It should be that's true, but there was a lot at the bottom of the can. Adding oil and shaking is certainly what worked for me to get the rest of it out.
you use engine flush?
Pop the metal can in hot water before even opening it will make it mix more on first shake and pour
That's a great idea!
I rinse the leftovers with power steering fluid and put it in the power steering. Downside is it turns the fluid black.
Why power steering? That's already very slippery. Why not use engine oil to rinse it out and then pour it into the engine?
Acreditem o MOS2 é o único que cumpre com sua promessa de redutor de atritos de todos os outros do mercado, sendo assim o melhor aditivo de óleo usado desde a segunda guerra mundial!Sua dica foi muito boa para não desperdício do MOS2!😊
Glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for the comment!👍
After you buy it keep it for a week upside down on shelf
That's a pretty good tip Andy! Thanks for sharing!
Just put the container in hot water for awhile, shake and pour
Yep that would probably do it too.
Uh, use a stick or long screwdriver to stir up to bottom.
Yep that would work too. The main thing is that now you're aware it's there, when I poured it in I didn't realize how much of the active ingredient had settled to the bottom
Could have scraped the bottom of the can lightly with a screwdriver to loosen it up as well.
Also wanted to mention I've used many friction reducing add to oil products over the last 30+ years, they were mostly off the shelf products. The only product that I found that truly worked / works well is Petro Tech 2000. Quite remarkable & quite noticeable results. Most noticeable was the increase in power & reduced noise of noisy gearbox & wheel bearings.
Yes that might have worked too. Never heard of that product but I'll see if I can get hold of some.
@@TheMusingGreg Can be found on gumtree Australia at Mayfield East NSW, with the FPC / FTC CONCENTRATE & also RMI-25. All the world's number 1 products for decades, that work as claimed, & still nothing today comes close to them.
OK thanks. Odd that they're so little heard of and hard to get hold of if they work so well. You would imagine they'd be more readily available than Gumtree. Though I know the original Slick 50 (xcelplus) is hard to get hold of these days too.
BEST one I've ever found is (the ORIGINAL) Slick 50 (now sold as Xcelplus). Treated my 1992 Subaru Brumby (bought new) after being run in. It WORKS. (ps, it's a "once off" / lifetime treatment, not an additive). Takes a while (full oil change duration) to bed in, but once it does - WOW. 2 things become glaring: startup - much quicker and easier, and it revs HIGH for the first second or so until the oil circulates and calms things down. The second is heat - it takes a LONG time for the engine to warm up. This is actually a drawback in the winter cold, I had to run the car at least 10 mins before I could start to defrost the windscreen (negating fuel savings from a more efficient engine!). Sold it after 16 years with 330,000 kms on it - still didn't use any oil and had never had a failure of any sort. I regret NOT treating the Holden VZ Commodore I replaced it with - at only 220,000 kms it has reduced performance, timing chain stretch, and burns 1.5 litres oil per 1,000 kms. Oh, the real kicker? A mechanic told me what a great engine the Brumby's had - you could get "up to" 200,000 kms before needing an engine rebuild :)
@@OhSoddit Petro Tech 2000 was the real original, even before Bishop's Slick 50. The Petro Tech 2000 is even better & withstands temp up to 2400 C. Around since 1972. Can be found on gumtree Australia at Mayfield East NSW. Almost sold out. The maker has retired & there'll be no more avail soon.
I noticed the catch can hose was disconnected and factory hose installed? Is this part of your testing of with and without?
Yep exactly Mike, well spotted! It's disconnected to start gunking the manifold up in preparation for the Revive test part 2.
Thanks Greg your a Champ I very much trust your work and appreciate the musing. I think very highly of Moly Products and find that a little disappointing about the sludge. I swear by the "Boost and clean" and "Engine Flush" but this one...snake oil or not? Just don't want to throw money were it could be better spent on good maintenance. From memory "Project Farm' Channel tested it with limited results unfortunately. Have a Pajero as well and flush every second change keeps the oil very clean for an extended period, can barely read it on the stick. Pooh myself sometimes when I pull it out and see nothing. FYI Worth noting that I have Wired EGR Block and catch can, doing oil change @ 7- 10,000km depending on usage.
Thanks Jamie, glad you're enjoying the content! The sludge isn't surprising in one sense; they say shake well and I guess if you shook it well enough for long enough it would fix it. But for most people I reckon 'shake well' might mean 'shake for 10-20 seconds' which isn't going to be close to what's needed.
This video isn't looking at the efficacy of the products, though as I said to another commenter I'm also very interested in that and is actually why I originally bought the ceratec. I have this on my list but it needs a dyno to do that properly.
Project Farm has done a heap of good videos, in particular the engine oils shootout. I don't remember one on this or engine flush, but I wouldn't be surprised if he's done them. I agree I don't mind spending money on products that work but I also don't want to waste money on something that does nothing. Stay tuned, and thanks for the support!
@@TheMusingGreg Project farm only covered the friction reducer, not the flush sorry Greg. Absolutely appreciate your excellent attention to detail, and information/evidence gained. Thanks Greg I'll be watching.
Cool OK thanks I might check out what he's already done first - knowing his channel I'm guessing it's a lubricity test which is a useful point of reference. If he's already covered the topic well enough there's no point me repeating it.
@@TheMusingGreg Yes just the lubricity was done Greg.
But the question is, does it work?
Yeah I'm very interested in this too and have been for a long time. Unfortunately there are so many variations in normal driving conditions that the only fair way to test that objectively is with a dyno and a vehicle which hasn't recently had a product like this through it. I'm hoping to line this up in the future but it'll take a bit of organising
I’ve owned my petrol 1FZ-FE 80 series Landcruiser since new 1993 and after 5,000k’s started using Nulon long term engine treatment, until just recently where I’ve switched to Liqui Moly Ceratec.
I’ve used 2 bottles every couple of years or so regardless of mileage.
I still have my 80 series and I’m around 8,000k’s short of half a million kilometres. My 80 series has taken me all around the country and gets driven very hard. (Has a uni chip and a set of ceramic coated Performance brand headers and a high flow stainless exhaust) still to this day goes harder than any normally aspirated 1FZ-FE I’ve seen. I had the head off in 2003 after towing a trailer to Cape York and back as no.6 cylinder was sucking in coolant. No other major mechanical works have been done on this engine. So if anyone is in doubt about any of these engine protection products, I think they’re worth their weight in gold. Note: For the life of the 80 I used Mobil 1 fully synthetic engine oil (I now use Penrite) every 6 months regardless of mileage.
Hope this has been helpful.
@@chrisdrinan4338Yes I have used the Nulon treatment in an BSA and an old 68 chev which has travelled a fair way and is still relatively quiet.
I used a mos2 friction reducer on my motorcycle about 3 months ago. It's a Triumph Tiger 800 from 2014 and i put about 60k on the odo. It's also a three cylinder, so a very smooth engine. Doesn't have the 'knock' of a 2 cylinder engine (think Harley Davidson, where you clearly hear the individual combustions of the engine). It's closer to a race car in sound. 50% more combustions per crankshaft turn is what makes it smooth.
Anyway, so I used some mos2 and right from the first ride it felt like i knocked 50k off the odo. The bike felt new again, the engine ran very smoothly. Purred, almost. Makes sense, it's a Tiger. It's starting to get cold outside and i commute in the winter. The engine usually runs rougher the closer you get to freezing temperatures (because it takes longer for the bike to really warm up than it takes me to get to work). This year I've noticed none of that so far. We're not at zero degrees yet but at 6°, it felt the same as it did on the hottest summer days. So I'm all in on team mos2 now. Great for making the engine feel new again and great for having a smooth engine in the winter.
I'm gonna put some mos2 in our SUV as well and i expect similar results for the engine. Probably not gonna feel the change to the same extent because i'm not as close to the engine as i am on the bike, but it feels like it's good for the engine.
So yeah, it works.
Is Ceratec a better product that does the same thing?
Supposedly, yes. Ceratec claims to last longer - 50,000kms vs next oil change. And ceramic may be a better additive than Molybdenum. But it's also more expensive. So whether it's better value depends if your can get it for less than about 3x the price.
@@TheMusingGreg I got it for $27 USD. I change my oil every 5k miles so that would be worth it since Ceratec lasts 30k miles. That’s 6 oil changes and would cost me $51 worth of MoS2.
@@GokuInstinct1 Yep it's worth it for that price! Note that the 50k (not 60k sorry, there is conflicting information from Liqui Moly) service life of Ceratec is based on 5L of oil, so for a bigger engine you'd need more than one bottle of Ceratec.
@@TheMusingGreg yea I did look at that and my engine uses 6.8 quarts of oil. I’d have to take that into account but honestly I’d be fine going 30k between using the product since I maintain the car well and it’s a reliable Lexus.
@@GokuInstinct1 Yep sounds like a plan mate! Hope it works well for you! Just make sure to give it a good old shake before use to get all that ceramic goodness into the donk!
I wonder if this moly additive in any way interacts with the additive package that is in all (or nearly all) oils these days.
You'd really hope they're compatible.
Yeah it's a fair question. These additives always say things like "compatible with all oils", but obviously they don't know what's in each oil. I guess they must have tested it though as it could be expensive for them if it caused blockages or reactions!
A quick question y do you penrite motor oil and liqu Moly additive y not use liqu Moly motor oil ????
Hi mate, yes that's the combination I use. The main reasons I still use Penrite motor oils are that 1) I've always used Penrite and I know what container size and type to buy so it's easy to just stick to what I know, 2) Liqui Moly motor oil hasn't been available in Australia for that long so it's not crossed my radar, and 3) having looked at it now, Liqui Moly is extremely expensive, close to double the cost of Penrite which itself is an expensive oil.
Is it safe to add Liqui Molly MOS2 200ml to the oil? that makes 200ml extra.. !
200ml over the full line isn't very much and I wouldn't be worried about adding it now if the oil level is up to the full line on on the dipstick. But if you're concerned just wait until the engine has burnt a bit of oil and then add the product.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Great tip!
Glad it was helpful!
Funny, I bought a can and I haven’t used it yet
In that case great timing for watching the video! If I hadn't stumbled across this myself, there's a good chance half the product would have gone straight in the bin!
@@TheMusingGreg
Thanks for your video. I’ll make sure not to waste any leftovers in the can!
Greg, you’re the best ! 😉
We’re not gonna let that sludge get us!
Best regards,
Greg C.
I think the German stuff works great. I bought mines Amazon.
I’ll know more when I try it! 😆
Haha! :D Cheers mate!
Yeah Liqui-Moly's holding up well in the various tests I've done so far that's for sure! I'd like to do an objective test of a friction reducer at some stage.
I’m going to use this on my next oil change coming up… 277k miles, 2006 GS430… Also speak slower in your next video. Thanks for the upload!
Thanks for the tip, sorry hope it wasn't too hard to understand!
@@TheMusingGreg I understood just fine as I’m a native English speaker. (American) but perhaps for your other viewers!
@@Apegabe Thanks mate. I actually have a tendency to speak fast when I'm trying to work out what to say on the spot, which is one reason I usually narrate my longer videos from a script where I can get everything right beforehand and then take my time. I guess this is the raw version! 😄
Good idea👍
Glad it was helpful! Please share with your friends!
I use the stuff. I don't worry that a few milliliters remain in the can.
It depends Mike. If it's all nicely mixed up, then I'm not worried about a few ml either. But you might have poured mainly the carrier fluid into the engine and left all the friction reducer at the bottom of the can!
@@TheMusingGreg I shake the can before. Still whenever I have used it, it has always seemed well mixed with no sign of seperation. Great stuff.
Fair enough. Maybe mine had been sitting for a while but there was a lot of sediment in the bottom of mine. That said I just added some more Ceratec to mine and I didn't have as much of an issue
And he started when alone as a teenage boy?
Sorry? 🤔🤷
@@TheMusingGregI would say he wouldn't know himself!
I say Don’t use, there is no use for these additive’s with the modern oil for car engines of today
Why not? Modern engines have friction as much as older ones. Why wouldn't you want to reduce that and reduce wear?