BH thanks so much, you answered all of my questions. Especially the first one about expansion joints, I dont understand why I dont see more tile garage floors. I researched epoxy, poly, PVC, and this seems like the best option for many reasons!
Glad I could help! I think you don't see more since it takes some time, especially if you're slow and meticulous like me. However, it was about the same price as a pro epoxy job if you're willing to look for some on-sale tile, and 5 years later it still looks great.
I can second the "hard to remove" on the thinset! I had to grind a bunch out that oozed between tiles (rookie mistake) and it was a bear and ate several Dremel grout bits.
I used a leveling compound (not self leveling) from Mapei. I forget the name but it was available at a big box store and is what you see me putting down in the beginning of the video to fill some small low spots. It’s a bit thinner and easier to work than thinset. Self leveling would probably be the right thing in a bath or something you want level, but my garage (and I would assume most garages) have a slope towards the door so water, etc doesn’t pool in the garage. Self leveling would all flow towards the door.
Not sure which plastic membrane you’re referring to? If on the whole floor and following the expansion lines I think I looked into redguard and it wasn’t sufficient to completely isolate the floor.
Excellent job! Just watched the first video too. This is exactly what I was looking for. I have somewhat of a similar design in my garage, with one exception. I have a large drain at the center of where the 4 corners would meet. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions about how to deal with that? It’s a round drain.
So take this with a grain of salt since I’m not a pro, but I’d basically treat it like a shower drain. I think you can get what’s essentially an extension collar that goes in your existing drain so it will be proud of you existing concrete floor, and ultimately even with your tile. I used an angle grinder with a diamond cutting blade for detail work when I tiled my shower and bathroom, and basically just mark your circle using the floor drain as a template with a sharpie or grease pen, and get to grinding. Do be aware cutting tile with an angle grinder will create a TON of dust and it’s surely bad for your lungs so wear a respirator. It’s probably easiest if your tile corners meet at the drain so your essentially “nipping” arcs out of 4 corners rather than trying to cut a good circle in a single large tile although that’s also doable with patience and a steady hand. Grout around the drain fitting and tile, put a nice metal grate on top, and you’re good. I would make sure to measure the slope angle of your existing floor, so you can angle the tiles towards the drain since the mortar would allow you to not quite follow the slope of the floor towards the drain. I can’t remember if I mention it in the video, but also check the John Bridge tile forum if you need help (ask nicely) or just treat it like a shower drain. Good luck and glad the video was helpful. It’s a big project but every time I go into my shop/gym I’m happy I did it!
I am a little late for you. If possible layout the tile so the drain is centered at the four corners of your tiles. So then you can use use the end of a belt sander to create a perfect radius after nipping the tile.
Excellent video with pertinent information after watching your first one !! One simple question: Do you put thinset on the floor AND on the back of the tile ? I think by watching your video that you put mortar only on the floor...? Always afraid of gaps under the tiles that could cause them to crack afterwards....Thank you very much from Montreal,Quebec,Canada !!
Yes, I put thinset on the floor and the tile (I believe the pros call this “back buttering”) and then I’d rock the tile a little to set it into position. The other major tip I learned is to scrape any thinset out of the joint before it hardens, otherwise you’ll spend a lot of time grinding it out as you see in the first video before I figured that out! Montreal is one of my favorite cities in North America, not least of which because I met Mrs. Big Heavy there many years ago!
She’s an American, but we just happened to be at the same bar in Vieux Montreal on New Years Eve of 2002. Here we are 21 years later with 3 little Heavy’s and much happiness!
I think I got it from a company called “Build Direct” but last I checked it was discontinued. If you check the original video I believe I put a link in there.
If memory serves it's a 4 or 5. It's held up great. My wife and I workout in there with various weights, I drag bikes and tools around, and while it's not something like a fab shop, it's also not been lightly treated. The other big factor I'd look at is the COF especially when wet, and the best way I can think of is to get actual samples. I had a few tiles where the numbers seemed good but some water on a sample piece made it like ice.
Coming to a first timer for information.... When people want a good carpenter, theyd look at Bob Villa.. This Old House way back... Now... diyers. Research NTCA and ANSI standards to find out how and what to use for a tiling job. "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right."
Not sure what you’re trying to say here. We were all first timers once, and I don’t believe I’ve ever stated I’m a standards body or professional, just trying to share my experience so others who are thinking of doing the same have a reference point.
Brilliant Video! Really useful to watch before deciding Tile is the way to go. Great job!
Glad you enjoyed it! I love the tile and despite it taking 10X longer to install than I thought, I enjoyed the installation process as well.
Great video…thank you. Tile looks dramatically better than epoxy IMO
I agree!
BH thanks so much, you answered all of my questions. Especially the first one about expansion joints, I dont understand why I dont see more tile garage floors. I researched epoxy, poly, PVC, and this seems like the best option for many reasons!
Glad I could help! I think you don't see more since it takes some time, especially if you're slow and meticulous like me. However, it was about the same price as a pro epoxy job if you're willing to look for some on-sale tile, and 5 years later it still looks great.
For broken tiles….an “Air Chisel” works really well. Porcelain tiles are very strong…..thinset is very strong, and hard to remove.
I can second the "hard to remove" on the thinset! I had to grind a bunch out that oozed between tiles (rookie mistake) and it was a bear and ate several Dremel grout bits.
Thank you for this vid!!!
You're so welcome! Good luck on your tile projects! Its' a lot of fun.
If the garage floor is pitted and uneven, how would you prep it? Pour self leveling or just level it with thinset?
I used a leveling compound (not self leveling) from Mapei. I forget the name but it was available at a big box store and is what you see me putting down in the beginning of the video to fill some small low spots. It’s a bit thinner and easier to work than thinset.
Self leveling would probably be the right thing in a bath or something you want level, but my garage (and I would assume most garages) have a slope towards the door so water, etc doesn’t pool in the garage. Self leveling would all flow towards the door.
Couldn’t you use Redguard instead of the plastic membrane?
Not sure which plastic membrane you’re referring to? If on the whole floor and following the expansion lines I think I looked into redguard and it wasn’t sufficient to completely isolate the floor.
Excellent job! Just watched the first video too. This is exactly what I was looking for. I have somewhat of a similar design in my garage, with one exception. I have a large drain at the center of where the 4 corners would meet. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions about how to deal with that? It’s a round drain.
So take this with a grain of salt since I’m not a pro, but I’d basically treat it like a shower drain. I think you can get what’s essentially an extension collar that goes in your existing drain so it will be proud of you existing concrete floor, and ultimately even with your tile. I used an angle grinder with a diamond cutting blade for detail work when I tiled my shower and bathroom, and basically just mark your circle using the floor drain as a template with a sharpie or grease pen, and get to grinding. Do be aware cutting tile with an angle grinder will create a TON of dust and it’s surely bad for your lungs so wear a respirator. It’s probably easiest if your tile corners meet at the drain so your essentially “nipping” arcs out of 4 corners rather than trying to cut a good circle in a single large tile although that’s also doable with patience and a steady hand.
Grout around the drain fitting and tile, put a nice metal grate on top, and you’re good. I would make sure to measure the slope angle of your existing floor, so you can angle the tiles towards the drain since the mortar would allow you to not quite follow the slope of the floor towards the drain.
I can’t remember if I mention it in the video, but also check the John Bridge tile forum if you need help (ask nicely) or just treat it like a shower drain.
Good luck and glad the video was helpful. It’s a big project but every time I go into my shop/gym I’m happy I did it!
I am a little late for you. If possible layout the tile so the drain is centered at the four corners of your tiles. So then you can use use the end of a belt sander to create a perfect radius after nipping the tile.
Excellent video with pertinent information after watching your first one !! One simple question: Do you put thinset on the floor AND on the back of the tile ? I think by watching your video that you put mortar only on the floor...? Always afraid of gaps under the tiles that could cause them to crack afterwards....Thank you very much from Montreal,Quebec,Canada !!
Yes, I put thinset on the floor and the tile (I believe the pros call this “back buttering”) and then I’d rock the tile a little to set it into position. The other major tip I learned is to scrape any thinset out of the joint before it hardens, otherwise you’ll spend a lot of time grinding it out as you see in the first video before I figured that out!
Montreal is one of my favorite cities in North America, not least of which because I met Mrs. Big Heavy there many years ago!
@@TheBigHeavy Thank you for your reply ! Is Mrs Big Heavy a Montrealer ??!!
She’s an American, but we just happened to be at the same bar in Vieux Montreal on New Years Eve of 2002. Here we are 21 years later with 3 little Heavy’s and much happiness!
You should show more of the job and less talk .
Thanks
Check out the whole job, from start to finish, right here: ruclips.net/video/KiRxqRNd6Xc/видео.html
Where can I find a similar quality tile ?
I think I got it from a company called “Build Direct” but last I checked it was discontinued. If you check the original video I believe I put a link in there.
Do you know the PEI rating of your tile?
If memory serves it's a 4 or 5. It's held up great. My wife and I workout in there with various weights, I drag bikes and tools around, and while it's not something like a fab shop, it's also not been lightly treated.
The other big factor I'd look at is the COF especially when wet, and the best way I can think of is to get actual samples. I had a few tiles where the numbers seemed good but some water on a sample piece made it like ice.
Coming to a first timer for information....
When people want a good carpenter, theyd look at Bob Villa.. This Old House way back...
Now... diyers.
Research NTCA and ANSI standards to find out how and what to use for a tiling job.
"If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right."
Not sure what you’re trying to say here. We were all first timers once, and I don’t believe I’ve ever stated I’m a standards body or professional, just trying to share my experience so others who are thinking of doing the same have a reference point.