I have a model year 2015 fluke 289. It is by far my favorite DMM. I also have the 87V and the 376FC clamp meter. I love how the 289 does data logging and it shows VAC and HZ on the same screen.
My pleasure, I wanted to have this review anyway for my "Ultimate multimeter buyers guide". It's difficult to go through every feature in detail and explain what they mean with out the review running too long and going off topic. What I plan to do is cover those items you mention in my series on "Advanced measurements with multimeters". I will try to get to that soon. Cheers, Martin.
I've had my original Fluke 77 since 1984 and it still works. I wanted to splurge and get something really nice for my bench at home after all these years. The killer with the 287/289 is the battery life and the fact that (according to this video) it draws on the batteries, even when turned off. I have some newer flashlights at home that do the same thing. I don't use them often, but every time I grab them, the batteries are dead. They get tossed in the corner. I think I'll look at a meter with a real on/off switch. Maybe an 87V. Kind of disappointed not to buy this but it's just annoying when something is dead every time you need it. Particularly after spending so much for it. That won't do. Thanks for the review.
Version 1.16 corrects an issue where recording sessions could be interrupted or terminated when using the record function in combination with ambient conditions of bright sunlight or other sources of bright light, when used without the IR cable attached. Version 1.16 does not apply for units labeled 287/TPWS or 287/NUC.
Thanks for the feedback and info. There's a fair amount I did not show as I need to balance the duration of the video. Perhaps I'll do a follow-up where I show those features too. Cheers, martin.
I did start off using rechargeable AA's when I first solar powered it but I did not have the correct charge control in the system I used. I'm also keen to work on a solution using super / hybrid capacitors. I would say that if you have a brand new 289 I would not make any modifications to it unless you are willing to risk possible damage and no option for a warranty claim.
Excellent work. I am going to buy three of them, so it is good to know something more about it, than you can read from the data sheet. Especially the fast continuity tester is pretty important detail and not every multimeter has it.
I have both the 287 and the 289 (fringe benefits for working at the Fluke MFG plant). Here is my workaround for the battery issue, I simply place two 4.2V Li-Ion 14500 (AA sized) and 4 AA sized battery conductors/shunts. Ensure your Li-Ion charger accepts these sizes (many of them are pretty universal). Buy a 4-pack of good quality cells (EBL is fine) so when these two start to droop you can simply swap them out with freshly charged cells.
Buy it from voltagestandard(dot)com. Read the description on the site on the calibration....and I have checked it myself with a 6.5 digit multimeter and it's correct and within spec.
Good review .. I am chocked that it's only 10 A .. i wanted to buy one to give analysis of the energy support for a building/block .. 400 amps at least
Thanks Martin, I just bought a used 189 and then found out the software is gonna cost another 200 ouch!!!!! Hopefully I can get it to work in linux for what I need. Thanks for the review we ll done as always my friend!!!
Great review and fantastic vids (subscribed) Only thing that puzzles me though is why you choose to use capacitors with a far lower capacity rather than say a set of excellent Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable AA batteries? The batteries will last longer, fit in the stock case and you can still use your solar charger.
Doesn't the Agilent or keysight U1272A do data logging, although a PC or laptop must be connected? I've done it with a netbook connected running Windows 7. The U1272A would be the better choice since it can be used as a regular multimeter when not doing data logging. It is much better on battery life as well.
I realize this is an old video but have you thought of charging through inductive coupling? It might be less cumbersome and probably would not jeopardize the device's safety.
i did a test on my fluke 289 to capture the max datapoints, 10034 sample then it stopped, the trend loading was slow as hell no matter what i did with that amount of data :)
Probably a dumb question, (Im a beginner) but I would love to build the units you used to check voltage and current on the multimeter with. However, designing that is above my current abilities. Is there a kit available similar to those? Excellent review, by the way!
Nice video, I wish to buy fluke meter for my electrical work and my can also use for electronic as he is now qualified as electronic and electrical engineer. Please advise me which one is best for both of us. I am qualified electrician. Thank you. Best wishes from Leicester England.
Great video ! How many hours, on average, could I expect to get out of a set of batteries in a Fluke 289 ? I am thinking about purchasing one but the power usage issue scares me a little. Thanks.
It's an excellent review... I read the manual, but couldn't find clear that recording function may be or may not be used to record current measurements? (min/max/avg may be enough though)
Hi Lorton, Have you used the nS(nano Siemens) feature of this DMM ? If so could you do a demo of its usage and principle,when your time permits ? Cheers!
Hello ! Please tell me how to check the phototransistors and photodiodes in this device ? Just at one point the device stopped working with a pop up message that the probes are connected incorrectly!I will be glad if you help with this problem !
Is there a video on your 12V mod setup? Is there an aftermarket connector block available to connect one's choice of external battery pack or PSU , say for logging over a week? If the AA batteries drain when logging is data retained for upload to Flukeview forms?
can fluke 289 or 287 be used to read low ohms reading . I mean in the miliohms range.or can ohms be recorded and then magnified while replay as it was done in dcv
Thank you for carrying out my request. I really enjoyed the review, but unfortunately I already know all the information you covered in this video. Would it be possible to explain the significance of crest factor, pulse width, duty cycle etc... and tell us what they mean and when to use them? Thanks!
I was just wondering what multi meter you could recommend for me? I am an apprentice electrician in Australia. I want a multi meter that can do milli amps and micro amps incase I get oppertunities in instrumentation. Something that does all the common functions but could also be used in industrial applications but could has a few added function as I grow and progress into a tradesman
Fluke 789, old but a good solid piece of kit, try pick up a second hand one, after that a fluke 744 ( being phased out now) or a fluke 754 ( no data logging function, but a n impressive process calibrator.... my moneys on the 789
I would try and go with a company that supplies instruments, so they take the risk of theft, cost of calibration, repair. You'll find -or will have found - going through your apprenticeship that some other tradies and site personnel the 'have-nots-will-take' types have an affinity for other people's tools and instruments. For day to day electrical the 117 is perfectly adequate. I even use the 117 on my electronics bench at home as my goto when I have a 289, and 87-V and a bench instrument. The small footprint makes it easy to site on my bench when there's a clutter. The company would be looking at a loop calibrator, a process meter or documenting calibration tool. If in hydrocarbons, mining, sewage, dusty environments an 'Ex' one, not instruments operatives should be responsible for buying .
With a FLUKE 289 i have not really used it much. Recently i have noticed that it is fluctuating in DCV as much as -0.0400v But seems to be in the - Installed new batteries Reset it to factory. Removed leads no change. When putting leads together it goes and holds 0.0000 but will not stabilize just constantly fluctuates. Very frustrating. Have you any idea what it could be
Another thing is since this is a power hog, is it possible to use the hi capacity nimh cells ? What is the lowest it can go before the battery level turns a red flag for measurements. Thanks.!
I bought an old 289, i open the case to check the board, nothing special. It is still in good condition, however bad things happened when i put everything back and turned it on, it welcomed me with the Warning : "leads connected incorrectly". No way to use it anymore, could you please advise me what I should do now. Thank you.
My Fluke 287 multimeter welcomed me with the Warning : "leads connected incorrectly". No way to use it anymore, could anyone to please advise me what I should do. Thanks in advance...
If you need any Duracell ProCell batteries let me know I have a good UK supplier with excellent prices, if the shipping is costly to SA you'd be welcome to ship through myself to reduce costs.
Pros:- good for logging and reports with FVF-Basic or above. ================================================= Cons:- LCD display sucks, and its not that clear Power hungry, Eats your batteries very quickly specially if you are using it daily like I do Slow into taking measurements, the 179 is 100 time faster and has clear LCD display Takes too much time to boot up, witch is stupid Not accurate into measuring low OHMs Cannot swap or change functions like the 179 for example, you have to go through the MENU witch is also stupid and time consuming, specially if you are in rush, change from diode to cap you have to go through the menu.
I have a model year 2015 fluke 289. It is by far my favorite DMM. I also have the 87V and the 376FC clamp meter. I love how the 289 does data logging and it shows VAC and HZ on the same screen.
My pleasure, I wanted to have this review anyway for my "Ultimate multimeter buyers guide". It's difficult to go through every feature in detail and explain what they mean with out the review running too long and going off topic. What I plan to do is cover those items you mention in my series on "Advanced measurements with multimeters".
I will try to get to that soon.
Cheers,
Martin.
I've had my original Fluke 77 since 1984 and it still works. I wanted to splurge and get something really nice for my bench at home after all these years. The killer with the 287/289 is the battery life and the fact that (according to this video) it draws on the batteries, even when turned off. I have some newer flashlights at home that do the same thing. I don't use them often, but every time I grab them, the batteries are dead. They get tossed in the corner. I think I'll look at a meter with a real on/off switch. Maybe an 87V. Kind of disappointed not to buy this but it's just annoying when something is dead every time you need it. Particularly after spending so much for it. That won't do. Thanks for the review.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad it was of value...and yes...the price of the software is a shocker!!!
Version 1.16 corrects an issue where recording sessions could be interrupted or terminated when using the record function in combination with ambient conditions of bright sunlight or other sources of bright light, when used without the IR cable attached. Version 1.16 does not apply for units labeled 287/TPWS or 287/NUC.
Thanks for the feedback and info.
There's a fair amount I did not show as I need to balance the duration of the video. Perhaps I'll do a follow-up where I show those features too.
Cheers,
martin.
I did start off using rechargeable AA's when I first solar powered it but I did not have the correct charge control in the system I used. I'm also keen to work on a solution using super / hybrid capacitors.
I would say that if you have a brand new 289 I would not make any modifications to it unless you are willing to risk possible damage and no option for a warranty claim.
after watching your review on the Fluke 287 i went and bought one. i`m very happy with it. thank you very much. i enjoy watching your vids
Excellent work. I am going to buy three of them, so it is good to know something more about it, than you can read from the data sheet. Especially the fast continuity tester is pretty important detail and not every multimeter has it.
Hi, fantastic video, congratulations. Would you have the schematic/ electrical diagram of this test circuit? Has this board for sale in the market?
Ok...I plan to demo the PC software etc so I'll try demonstrate that....thanks for posting.
I have both the 287 and the 289 (fringe benefits for working at the Fluke MFG plant). Here is my workaround for the battery issue, I simply place two 4.2V Li-Ion 14500 (AA sized) and 4 AA sized battery conductors/shunts. Ensure your Li-Ion charger accepts these sizes (many of them are pretty universal). Buy a 4-pack of good quality cells (EBL is fine) so when these two start to droop you can simply swap them out with freshly charged cells.
Buy it from voltagestandard(dot)com. Read the description on the site on the calibration....and I have checked it myself with a 6.5 digit multimeter and it's correct and within spec.
Good review .. I am chocked that it's only 10 A .. i wanted to buy one to give analysis of the energy support for a building/block .. 400 amps at least
Bought the 289 today. The only complain is the bad readability of the display. Other than that it’s my best DMM now in my lab :)
Yes...I've noticed that...it does struggle when trending more data. My Metrix has the same problem and is perhaps slower.
Great, glad to hear that. I hope to do a follow-up explaining some of the more obscure measurement options soon.
Yup...give me a day or so and I hope to do this for you. Cheers.
Thanks Martin, I just bought a used 189 and then found out the software is gonna cost another 200 ouch!!!!! Hopefully I can get it to work in linux for what I need. Thanks for the review we ll done as always my friend!!!
Thank you!, I loved your review on this meter.
Yes, I appreciate it does look ugly...one fine day once I have the power source resolved I'll make it "beautiful" again! Thanks for the post.
Great review and fantastic vids (subscribed)
Only thing that puzzles me though is why you choose to use capacitors with a far lower capacity rather than say a set of excellent Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable AA batteries?
The batteries will last longer, fit in the stock case and you can still use your solar charger.
Great video tutorial ❤👍 thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience 🫡🇵🇭
About 100 hours...and 200 hours in data logging mode of you are lucky...use lithium AA's to extend that...makes it lighter too.
Thank you very much for your effort
That meter looks beautiful but your modification makes it look so bad. Such a shame. I know it works for you but I could never do that to my 289.
Doesn't the Agilent or keysight U1272A do data logging, although a PC or laptop must be connected? I've done it with a netbook connected running Windows 7. The U1272A would be the better choice since it can be used as a regular multimeter when not doing data logging. It is much better on battery life as well.
I realize this is an old video but have you thought of charging through inductive coupling? It might be less cumbersome and probably would not jeopardize the device's safety.
i did a test on my fluke 289 to capture the max datapoints, 10034 sample then it stopped, the trend loading was slow as hell no matter what i did with that amount of data :)
Probably a dumb question, (Im a beginner) but I would love to build the units you used to check voltage and current on the multimeter with. However, designing that is above my current abilities. Is there a kit available similar to those? Excellent review, by the way!
Nice video,
I wish to buy fluke meter for my electrical work and my can also use for electronic as he is now qualified as electronic and electrical engineer.
Please advise me which one is best for both of us.
I am qualified electrician.
Thank you.
Best wishes from Leicester England.
Great Review!!! One of the best I've seen
I want everything on a single multimeter, which model I should buy
Great video ! How many hours, on average, could I expect to get out of a set of batteries in a Fluke 289 ? I am thinking about purchasing one but the power usage issue scares me a little. Thanks.
It's an excellent review...
I read the manual, but couldn't find clear that recording function may be or may not be used to record current measurements? (min/max/avg may be enough though)
Did I miss the part that measures cap and how to use the REL?
Hi Lorton,
Have you used the nS(nano Siemens) feature of this DMM ? If so could you do a demo of its usage and principle,when your time permits ?
Cheers!
Where did you get the reference voltage printed circuit board? Part number and manufacture? Thanks, I really enjoy your videos!
Tony from California.
good teacher,,,, bot meter right away
Do you have any more UPDATES to this meter? Thanks for your channel.
Hello ! Please tell me how to check the phototransistors and photodiodes in this device ? Just at one point the device stopped working with a pop up message that the probes are connected incorrectly!I will be glad if you help with this problem !
I have a 289 and I can't get it to zoom. Is the 289 supposed to do that ?
I have a 289, and you can zoom.
but the meter records in much faster intervals directly to pc approx the same speed as the screen refresh
Is there a video on your 12V mod setup? Is there an aftermarket connector block available to connect one's choice of external battery pack or PSU , say for logging over a week? If the AA batteries drain when logging is data retained for upload to Flukeview forms?
can fluke 289 or 287 be used to read low ohms reading . I mean in the miliohms range.or can ohms be recorded and then magnified while replay as it was done in dcv
Hello. Could I ask please, what is that device you are using for DMM check? How do you know it is spot on? Where can I buy it? Thanks :)
I was thnking of getting one of those (287)'s. thanks!
Does this graph in real time? If not what does
Thanks for answer
How fast can you charge those supper caps ?
Hi can you please give advice as to which fluke multimeter is best for testing Iphone motherboards !!!
Thank you for carrying out my request.
I really enjoyed the review, but unfortunately I already know all the information you covered in this video. Would it be possible to explain the significance of crest factor, pulse width, duty cycle etc... and tell us what they mean and when to use them?
Thanks!
best multimeter ever
hi, can i use this multimeter to measure the motor heat during many running conditions
I was just wondering what multi meter you could recommend for me? I am an apprentice electrician in Australia. I want a multi meter that can do milli amps and micro amps incase I get oppertunities in instrumentation. Something that does all the common functions but could also be used in industrial applications but could has a few added function as I grow and progress into a tradesman
Fluke 789, old but a good solid piece of kit, try pick up a second hand one, after that a fluke 744 ( being phased out now) or a fluke 754 ( no data logging function, but a n impressive process calibrator.... my moneys on the 789
I would try and go with a company that supplies instruments, so they take the risk of theft, cost of calibration, repair. You'll find -or will have found - going through your apprenticeship that some other tradies and site personnel the 'have-nots-will-take' types have an affinity for other people's tools and instruments. For day to day electrical the 117 is perfectly adequate. I even use the 117 on my electronics bench at home as my goto when I have a 289, and 87-V and a bench instrument. The small footprint makes it easy to site on my bench when there's a clutter. The company would be looking at a loop calibrator, a process meter or documenting calibration tool. If in hydrocarbons, mining, sewage, dusty environments an 'Ex' one, not instruments operatives should be responsible for buying .
calibration data invailed. calibrate meter before use. see service manual. but i don't have the passw. Pls help me. manny thanks
Can you check if mV DC range is actually DC+AC coupled as it is on the 28II/87V?
With a FLUKE 289 i have not really used it much. Recently i have noticed that it is fluctuating in DCV as much as -0.0400v
But seems to be in the -
Installed new batteries
Reset it to factory.
Removed leads no change.
When putting leads together it goes and holds 0.0000 but will not stabilize just constantly fluctuates. Very frustrating. Have you any idea what it could be
Ghost voltage, use LoZ if you want it steady
Very detailed review !
Did fluke patch the FW for the optical sensor issue ?
Another thing is since this is a power hog, is it possible to use the hi capacity nimh cells ? What is the lowest it can go before the battery level turns a red flag for measurements. Thanks.!
Thanks a lot. :)
where can i get one of that voltage ref board?
I bought an old 289, i open the case to check the board, nothing special. It is still in good condition, however bad things happened when i put everything back and turned it on, it welcomed me with the Warning : "leads connected incorrectly". No way to use it anymore, could you please advise me what I should do now.
Thank you.
You have broken down the tiny photoSensor between the leads. Check ford it.
can DC voltage and current be displayed simultaneously?
bsummey no
👍👍
Thanks,🙏🙏🙏greats,👍👍👍👍👍
Boa noite de portugal
My Fluke 287 multimeter welcomed me with the Warning : "leads connected incorrectly". No way to use it anymore, could anyone to please advise me what I should do. Thanks in advance...
connect it properly :) I had same issue till I look twice
It will show the same warning if no lead is connected (only in some modes)
Servicios de calibración de equipos de medición y generación, para que sus medidas sean mas eficientes
Boa noite
If you need any Duracell ProCell batteries let me know I have a good UK supplier with excellent prices, if the shipping is costly to SA you'd be welcome to ship through myself to reduce costs.
Pros:- good for logging and reports with FVF-Basic or above.
=================================================
Cons:- LCD display sucks, and its not that clear
Power hungry, Eats your batteries very quickly specially if you are using it daily like I do
Slow into taking measurements, the 179 is 100 time faster and has clear LCD display
Takes too much time to boot up, witch is stupid
Not accurate into measuring low OHMs
Cannot swap or change functions like the 179 for example, you have to go through the MENU witch is also stupid and time consuming, specially if you are in rush, change from diode to cap you have to go through the menu.
Is that a LCD display ? WTF? Why not OLED ???
Jeremy BBenthem lcd for 100 hour. OLED for what? 1 hour? Lol.
Is the god of the every multimeters in the world!!!
ahaaa, and you need multiple flukes to check voltage =)))