Use technique, not brute force, installing tough tires
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Our first how-to video showing the techniques used to make tire installation a lot easier. Tires and rims have been designed to fit more tightly, for safety reasons, and require that you use technique, not just brute force, to mount them. We show you what that means in this video.
Note that, for tubeless tire installation, you end at the valve, while for tube, you start at the valve. The reason you start at the valve when using a tube is that it's easier to make sure the tube isn't pinched between tire and rim. No tube to pinch with tubeless, so you'll have a bit more slack if you end at the valve.
This is why I love internet. Thank you, sir
FANTASTIC! It was just like a magic trick. Going in - I knew it was impossible. And, then you did it! Gobsmacked! I've heard of all the tricks, but never saw anyone do it so easily. I can't wait to try it out. Since I am a loyal customer, I already know that Mike is a God. But, this was like I was being invited into heaven!
And this is exactly how it is done! And it doesn't matter whether it's a mtb tire or a road tire! The one and only "always-works-method"! Well explained.
If I might add: You also want to start installing it opposite of the valve, not at the valve, but end at the valve. Because at the valve, you can not get into the center of the rim. As you end at the valve, you might have a tenth more, to help your installation process.
Thats how I teach my co-workes and and my trainees.
Greetings from Germany.
I clarified things in the text; for tubeless, yes, end at the valve. For tube, best practice, I think, is to start at the valve because it's easier to make sure the tube isn't being pinched between tire and tube. As a bicycle shop, we see these pinches so often, perhaps I'm overly cautious about it. Thanks! --Mike--
Yeah I start at the valve
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 I partially agree, because so many opinions floating around from so many professionals.
But as you start with my recommended advise, also with tube-tires, you'll might also start opposite of the valve. Why is that? Simple: Reaching the valve, you made sure already, that your tube in no possible way could have been pinched at the other positions of the tire. So when you reach the valve, to make sure you won't pinch your tube at the valve between rim and tire, you simply push the valve all inside the tire. Also: You'll want to wobble your tube on the rim first, before closing in the second part of your tire (also protects you from pinching it).
That ensures, that you'll be able to simply add pressure to your tire and won't be worried about your tire lifting up and your tube building a bubble, that'll burst your tube with a loud bang. ;o)
Of course: Attention alwas is highly recommended. So always double check, as you add pressure, that your tire won't be liftet unusual on any position.
I should have had added this in my first post. Hope that clears it all up. ;o)
Big "But": Sometimes, with few rims, especially on rims produced before...let's say 1995...manufactureres haven't add a enough curved inner rimbeds. So in these cases, especially with roadrace tires wich are foldable, you'll highly need tireleavers! Otherwise you won't get your tire on the rim...on both sides. These are a pain in the a...you know what! :D
Try this with an actually tough combo - like a challenge strada bianci tlr pro on a carbon rim. It ain't going on that easy.
Wow! It works. I struggled with a new tire using tire levers, lots of force, and nothing. Then, I followed your how-to steps and voila. It's a miracle 😀. Thanks so much.
Thanks, great to hear that people were able to figure out what I was doing.
When you air it up at the end, make sure the tire seats on the rim evenly. Look it over on both sides. The part about letting the air out at the end, I found that part myself after many years of doing it with air the entire time. Good video.
This is fantastic! I've been struggling with tires my whole life. Thanks to this video, this part of life just got a whole lot easier!
Good advice! Thanks! I had tons of trouble with my Triban RC 520 bike that I switched up from 28s to 32s and the last time I put new wheels, I stuggled to get them off and on. I ended up with brutal blisters on my thumbs trying to get them off and on without tools. I've done some damage to my tube before in the middle of nowhere when changing a flat tube out once. I pinched the tube and it became worthless. I bought a Tyre Glide for the next time I got to change the tire out. The tip you gave about putting air in the tube and then releasing the air once the tire is almost on the rim, is a really good tip. Thanks! I kept a little air in my tire and I struggled to get that last part on which, makes sense now to release the air in the tube. A good tip for everyone is to check the rim tape too to make sure it's still where it needs to be. My tape moved on me once and I ended up getting a flat from the spokes hitting the tube.
Good thing to point out about the rimstrip. Using tire levers can actually be part of the problem with a rimstrip moving out of place; if you push the tire lever in a bit too far, it can shove the rimstrip to the side.
Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700c 25mm on narrow road rims: The toughest install I've ever done, by a very large margin! These tires are unbelievably stiff and it's really hard to keep the beads squeezed together, especially when brand new. I'm praying it'll be easier after they've been formed to the rims for a while, so they'll not be such a struggle if I need to fix a flat during a ride (on the other hand, they're so stiff that I could probably ride on them flat).
First one took me about an hour to get on. I had to invent a new technique - laying the wheel flat on the floor and using my feet to hold the first part of the bead in, while I worked the rest of it in with my hands. Had to work around the circumference many times, tucking, tucking, tucking until I finally had enough slack to pop the last bit of bead onto the rim. Second one took "only" 10-15 minutes after that experience. If you ever have to mount one of these, call a couple or three friends to help. The more hands, the better!
I use Gatorskin tires and have a similar wheel (Bianchi) and I have actually snapped tire levers trying to get tires off and back on. It’s crazy. I’ll certainly remember this video next time I have a flat and hope for better results. I live in the area and ride past Chain Reaction on occasion; very nice store. Thanks for the video. :-)
Excellent , A man after my own heart , Years of experience ,old school .Just the way i fit a tyre .
There should be SOME reward for "years of experience" (aka, getting old) right?
You’re right technique plays a huge role in all sorts of maintenance scenarios, only wish you could have helped me with a set of DT Swiss ERC 45 wheels and Corsa Next tyres, that was what I would describe as an out of body experience by the end. What made it worse was that the brand new hub was faulty and so I had to immediately take the tyres off again and that was almost as hard as installing them. Nightmare combination 🤣
That's it. I just installed a pair of Continental Mountain King 27.5 x 2.4, tried the old way first, got azz kicked, tried this way, bam - they went on. Don't even need the levers to install. Excellent!
Technique really does make a difference! It's become especially important to me; my 67 year old, Raynauds-"enhanced" hands don't have the strength they used to.
Great tips! Thanks
🤯… thanks for posting. Wish I could have all the blisters undone from years of doing it wrong in the middle of long rides in the saddle. Amazing!
Wow that makes complete sense!
Its also good practice to check for pinches before you fully inflate, and jiggle the valve up and down.
When using tubes, yes, absolutely!!! That got lost in the shuffle in my desire to shoot this as a one-take video. It's something I always do, even if I'm 100% certain there's no chance the valve area of the tube is trapped between tire and rim.
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. Makes me look forward to my next puncture....almost!
Excellent technique for removing & replacing inner tubes & tires. I will definitely try it when the new inner tubes come in. It should make the process a whole lot easier. Thanks for the tip Mike!
Great video and technique. I have used the brute force technique with Continental tires and a tire level more times than I would like to admit. I definitely will keep these tips in mind next time.
Its nice if you have the 'concave' portion in the rim but my rims do not (touring rims). I don't buy/use tires based on changing them in the comfort of my home, I base it on fixing flats by the roadside in the middle of nowhere with less than ideal weather conditions. If a tire is hard to take off/put on at home, its going to be 2X as hard on the road. It'll go back to the shop and exchanged for something easier to use.
In general, older rims not designed for tubeless, even with a non-concave interior, are going to be easier to install tires on because they're not worried about the bead of the tire having to form a seal across the rim as you inflate it (as is needed on a tubeless scenario).
A random click on youtube. I actually learned something important to me. Tight tires are the bane of my life, other than my ex
thank you
These are some excellent expert tips, thank you!
The only thing I would add is that sometimes you have to repeat the centering the tyre in the wheel well again or a few times until the last bit of tyre is over the rim. Nice work and is just how I was taught.
If you hold tension on the tire where you're pushing it over the rim, you probably won't have to re-squeeze. Maybe? But if it works, it works!
I will try this. My last puncture Was a nightmare. Thank you
Hope it works for you! Remember- you are smarter than a tire. On a good day, anyway. :-)
Great video. I was struggling to put on new Conti 5000 tires. Now it's a piece of cake.😊
Love the 'easily, in most cases' part😁
I'm not going to claim you won't find an impossible combination of tire & rim, but in the vast majority of cases, seemingly-impossible fits can be accomplished using technique and hands, without tools. I am surprised, in retrospect, that everything worked out so well that I could do it on the first take, all the way through, no edits. I got lucky. :-)
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 you got skill, thats all😁
I totally recommend silicone spray on the tube, no binding, no pinching, and the minute amount that gets on the bead assists seating. Learnt that from motorcycle tyres 👍
No slippage from silicone spray when you're pushing the last part over the rim? I'll look into this. I get the concept. Thanks!
What do you do when the tube slips around the rim and rips the valve off? Just stick to talcum powder
Very helpful, and very convincing. Cheers!
The "convincing" part is important. If you approach it assuming the tire will win, it likely will. :-)
Really good tips! But it'd be a lot more difficult installing a brand-new tire right out of the package compared to reinstalling one that has already been mounted for a while. When installing a new tire, a bead jack really comes in handy.
Wow. - wish I could fit my Conti tyres onto rims like that ! So easy, techneque is the answer. At my age -I'm 77 yo, not much strength in my arms, & little dexterity in my wrists and fingers. Well, such is life.
Sitting the bead of the tire into the center trough of the rim is key, but not all rims have a center trough and those will require more brute force.
And the center troughs aren't as deep as they used to be, since that would keep a tubeless installation from initially airing up (the air would escape around any gaps caused by a too-loose fit). Still, while full-center isn't an option on such rims (with no depressed center), squeezing the tire inward will at least move it away from the corner, which might be a little bit higher on some rims.
The amazing thing (from my experience at least) is how seemingly imperious to flats tires have gotten. 40 years ago Specialized made high performance clinchers I used, but getting a puncture every 500-1000 miles was very common or expected (if unlucky could be more frequently than that).
Now, I don’t ride as many miles, but going multiple years without flats is pretty normal. Usually remove tires and tubes just to replace them and not bc of an on-road flat.
Very good. I use a v similar technique which allows me to put Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres onto Brompton 16 inch wheels without using tyre levers. They are notoriously difficult to put on. Thanks for your film.
Genius!
Nice video, but that is not a tight fitting tire. I've seen WAY worse.
Because I made it look "too easy" then by definition it's not a tight-fitting tire? I get that, it's probably what I'd think myself looking at something like this. I'll come up with something known to be nasty next time, like a Conti 5000. Trust me, in 48 years of doing this, I've had dozens of the best mechanics coming to me with tires they insisted couldn't be put on without tools, trying to find something that would "crack" me. And yes, there have been a few in all those years, but darned few. I do have an advantage; I got to learn on motorcycle tires back in the 70s. Technique wasn't optional, it was required.
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 Yep - I'd like to get some tips with something really tough like a Conti 5000 on a Giant SLR hookless rim (tubeless). That's a combination I've only ever managed in the garage with levers, time, effort and a good dose of swearing. Even getting the first bead on can be an effort. I dread the day I may need to do it by the side of a road. (Taxi!) So far, tubeless sealant has saved my day.
Place the wheel on the floor with the valve at the 12 o'clock position, lean it against your knees, bend over slightly at the waist, place a hand at the 11 and 1 o'clock positions and manually push the tire to the center of the rim as described here. Without releasing grip of the tire, simultaneously use your strength and body weight pulling the tire from the top and pushing down towards the floor. What you are doing is pulling and pushing all the slack from the tire and concentrating it to the opposite side of the rim. With the loosness concentrated there, you most likely can pull the tire off the rim by hand. If not, you still have more slack to insert a tire iron and grip a bit of bead. This is also a similar downward motion used to stretch a tubular tire onto a rim. Of course there are more specific techniques for tubular tires, but the wheel and hand positioning is similar. Depending on the difficulty, this may be done in your lap while sitting with the wheel resting on your quads (thighs) while working the tire forward away from you. All the Best, Thanks!
Thanks for sharing..
That's my bike shop.
Excellent
correct start at the valve make sure the valve can slide in the valve hole push it to the back of the inside the tyre
once the tyre is fully on the rim push the tyre to the centre of the rim both sides check for nips before you add air
For tubes yes. For tubeless, the comments are correct when they say end at the valve.
GREAT video, Mike! I learned something after changing countless tires... Questions for you:
1) What about using talc on tubes? (You did not use any on this video.)
2) What about using various "tire jacks" on recalcitrant tire/rim combinations?
3) There appeared to be cloth (Velox?) rim tape on that CF rim.
4) What about the tubeless-ready rims and rim tape thickness? 4a) Are rims still made for inner tubes?
Talc isn't generally required on tubes anymore; there are a few youtube videos I've seen that explained why it's not needed. I haven't personally used talc (or something similar) in maybe 40 years. The tire jack type gadgets that can lift the tire up over the rim are useful, but you still want to be squeezing the tire into the center of the rim while applying the pressure. And yes, this rim had a fairly-conventional rim tape, which has a texture making it more likely the tire isn't going to slide to the center by itself. The thicker one-piece rimstrips made for tubeless use can be a bit tougher due to their thickness (making the overall fit a bit tighter.
I don't think any modern high quality rim will be made for just tube-type configurations. That would be too limiting, and dangerous if someone did install a tubeless setup on it.
thanks
4:34 Magic!
the way how he "pull the tire of the rim", I had way tighter tires where that wasnt just possible heh... had to use tools and muscle it out a lot
would love to see one of these videos where mechanic actually struggles with it, or putting the tire on (definitely had stopping point like midway throught and took a while to get it on...
Gatorskins on rims for tubeless . Absolute nightmare 😅😮
Easily. "Most of the time." And for the ones that don't go on easily: you actually have a tight fitting tyre.
A couple of toe clip straps holding tyre into the well helps
Ha! Sorry my friend, that was a typical tire install. Nowhere close to being a “tough” install.
Start opposite the valve when mounting the tire. You do it the wrong way - as so many do.
As explained in the text, for tubeless, yes, start opposite the valve (and end at the valve). Not a good idea to do a tube install that way, due to how much easier it is to pinch the tube. After you get the section on around the valve, you the push the valve up into the tire, making sure it "floats" (isn't pinched) and allowing the tire to slide down into the center of the rim.
If you do it correctly, you don't need tire levers - remove tires or to install tires.
I only run tubes and have for over 40 years - I can not remember the last time I used a tire Lever.
I will admit to having to resort to use tire levers to remove a tire now & then. It's rare, but it does happen. My fingers don't work well in the cold, which can make getting a tire off more difficult.
Please show how to install a BRAND NEW Conti Gatorskin- i’ll wait
Not the busiest time of year right now so might be a while, but clearly I'm hearing a lot of people who want to see me install more-difficult tires than what I used in this video. Will make some short pieces down the road! Conti seems to be getting a lot of votes for being impossibly tight, so they'll definitely be included.
No doubt this is a nice video, but that kind of tires are not (in my opinion), "tough tires". Tubeless mtb tires 27.5" or 29" from 2.6" are really tough tires and even using all that techniques, theres no way they fit without the help of good and long tire levers, like for example, the ones I use, "Pedro's downhill and enduro tire lever with handle". I actually run Schwalbe Hans Dampf Adixx 27.5x2.6 and I use 3 of that levers, otherwise theres no way they fit. Until the size of 2.35 or 2.4 tires I almost fit it with my bare hands, with only a litlle help of 2 plastic levers from schwalbe like the ones you show in the video. Don't get me wrong because I really apreciate the video. Anyway thanks for sharing your knowledge with al of us.
thay tyre ain't tight, by any stretch of the imagination....rubbish.
I can do super-tight tires as well (and in fact this was not an easy fit compared to others). I learned technique on motorcycle tires back in the day. If you think bicycle tires are tough...
Hi thanks for the tips. Can you do a video installing crushcore, tubeless on a 29er?
Thanks.
Oh Dang! I just used the techniques demonstrated in the video and it made installing the Cush Core on my 29" carbon wheel a breeze.
Thank you so much.
Glad it worked for you! The same techniques work regardless of tire size. Haven't played with Cush Core; good to know technique makes them easier as well. --Mike--
Nah it's hard to even get the first bead on my tyre I've tried all these techniques.
When I worked at a bike store department store bike rims and tires were a complete puzzle getting on. No wonder bike shops dont want to service them. Then the customers who owned the crap bike would lose it when you tell them.
Nice tips, though not all tires are directional. I spent a good 10 minutes+ looking for an arrow the first time I put my panaracer gravelkings on before discovering they aren't directional and so don't have an arrow.
The tire gods at Bontrager tell me that all tires are "directional" whether they have an arrow or not. It's not the treat but the casing that can cause a difference of a couple watts one way or the other. But maybe you can create a casing where direction doesn't matter, at the expense of a small amount of efficiency? I'll look into this some more. Thanks for bringing it up. --Mike--
Great video...Thank you. What kind of air hose adapter is that? For Presta Valves, I have only seen the type that screw on. I never knew that there are quick release adpaters available for Presta.
You have to start close to the valve because it doesn't let the tire go down to the deepest part of the rim.
For tubeless, yes. For tubes, not needed because the fit is typically a bit looser and you're less likely to pinch the tube between tire and rim if you finish (for a tube scenario) opposite the valve. If you do everything exactly right, no problem. But I have literally 52 years of experience seeing customers mess things up at the valve by getting the tube pinched. I can't imagine how many that comes to. It's something, in a bike shop, that is seen all the time.
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 amateurs use spatulas. fight against tire and get the tube pinched.
I haven't used tools to remove tires in 23 years. only using this method that uses little force and does not harm the tire bead or the rim,
1 deflate the air well, 2 release the tire from the rim, 3 pull the tire close to the valve, 4 massage the tire to accommodate it inside the rim, 5 the tire will release easily by hand.
Use a tyre jack not levers
Wow that’s excellent Thank You for sharing! Now question how about a fresh new pair of Contis on first installation? Another words never mounted or pre stretched ?
Next time installing some new Contis, I'll try to remember to video the process.
Looks like you've done a few in your time.
Are you saying I'm old? :-)
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 Ha ha not at all. You can just tell when someone knows what they are doing. And the tip about using palms has been a game changer.
@@allan7030 It was really helpful to have early experience with motorcycle tires and tubes back in the day. Even the best combinations were never easy. Someone relying on brute force was likely to kill someone when a tire lever let loose.
At the end of the day, there is only one question to be answered. Are you as smart as the tire? Because the tire is trying to convince you otherwise. I'm trying to tilt the scales in favor of people.
Someday I'll have a nightmare where all the tires that lost their battles come after me.
You shoud end by the valve!!!!!
On that point there is more space to put the outertire in its place.
(Not for tubeles tires!)
Ok. Now do it with a tubeless road tire.
Tubeless road becomes increasingly problematic smaller than 30mm and is not something I'm a fan of. Not yet anyway.
two hell tire. WTB, Challenge
My shop sells only Panaracer and Kenda because everything else will bite you.
haha, easy peasy!
Except if the tire was a new folding tire, not one he had just taken off and that was already stretched to fit on this rim.
Or, it was new, folding, tubeless tire.
I've gone through his whole technique, exactly as he shows it, and still needed a couple of tire irons to get the tire on the rim. Even with the additional step of stretching the tire from the valve toward the unmounted side.
As for the comments about doing it toward the valve, rather than away, that never seemed like a good idea to me to have the valve in the way of trying to get that last bit of tire on the rim. Especially not for tubeless.
I could demonstrate it with an impossibly-tight tire as well... my mechanics will frequently bring an "impossible" tire to me, believing they've found something I can't do with my hands. Including brand new. Most of the time I can get it done without tools, but there are some where I haven't been able to. This isn't about absolutes; it's about technique making installation possible, without tools, for 90% of the tire and rim combinations out there. And for those you can't, all the techniques are still valid and will help to prevent the tire being damaged when you have to use tools. --Mike--
Can you do that with gatorskins right out of the box without levers ? I only can with some rims but with two way fits its imposible for me ( and i am quite skilled for this)
Despite the belief that Contis are of the highest-quality of tires out there, I find a fair amount of variability in bead tightness from batch to batch, with some of them being among the toughest to install.
Come on! Drop the tire rim into the rim center groove and use a tire lever, that's what they're for.
Whether using your bare hands or tire levers, the techniques shown here are going to make it easier. Also, using a tire lever can mask problems that could come up later, such as a part of the tube pinched between tire and rim. By hand, it's going to be really difficult to push past that. With a tire lever, you/re more likely to not be aware of it being tighter than it should be.
There are going to be some combinations of tire/rimstrip/rim that can't be done without use of a tire lever. They're rare; I encounter a couple a year.
No way is this a virgin Conti tyre. And the Park plastic tool- useless, breaks off. Apparently, you do not use the method preferred by Conti to NOT start moving the tyre over the rim bead - this position is LAST which keeps the tube safely tucked into the tyre avoiding a pinch flat. Fortunately I follow Conti.
I just tried with a brand new Conti 5000 and this technique worked perfectly. I got blisters the previous time.
Conti's are not hard. Try challenge strada's...
Hi that was not a difficult try to get off,
It's no wonder chain reaction went bust with bad advice like this
Wrong Chain Reaction. We're a local bike shop in Northern California, 44 years old as of Thursday. Not in any way related to the on-line shop in Northern Ireland. But interested in what you see as the "bad advice?"
I expected an ignorant comment like this would eventually come from some nitwit. Not disappointed.
Chain Reaction and Mike have been valuable members of the cycling community for decades.
@@dudeonbike800 Thanks, it's OK. Some of the comments remind me of the old usenet days, the flame wars that were the norm. Didn't realize youtube was carrying on some of that great tradition. :-) (My flame-proof suit is pretty old but still working)
The comment section makes my case for how arrogant and prickish a lot of cyclists are.
RUclips comments are a bit like the old days of usenet, magnified a bit because there's some degree of anonymity here vs people using their real names in usenet groups. Having grown up in rec.bicycles.tech and rec.bicycles.racing, I've got a pretty good flamesuit and have learned not to pour gasoline on fires. :-)
The flip side is that you never know where you might learn something new.
If you think that is a tight tyre/rim combo then you haven't lived my friend. Not only that but your technique is flawed anyway. You should finish at the valve not start because this is the tightest point on the rim. You need to start opposite the valve so that the tyre can stay in the well of the rim giving you the most slack and the best chance of getting a tigjt tyre on.
Agree 100%.
You stole my comment 😂
For tubeless, this is true, it does make it even easier. Tube tire, no, start at the valve. I went into automatic mode. Thanks for the reminder!
The toughest tyre that I encountered was from panaracer
Yes, seen a few of those! But there are some Conti/various rim combos that can be pretty challenging. @@joshtang1127
tire irons. quick stix. thumbs to hell.
Use thumbs to hold things in place but push with your palms. Much more skin/padding on your palms.
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 take the tire off, with the tube, chech the rims, tire. re install with talc powder to 150 psi with gunmuffs.
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 your shop has air comps.so you don't wear earplugs, nice.
@@markk2403 The air compressor is small, quiet, and hidden inside a cabinet. At our prior location we had a single, large and extremely-loud air compressor. Much nicer with multiple small units.
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 not big. with a belt. to hold it up . to drain the water out. yeah. your a mech,= haha.
bend rotors , alch down. so , cable or oil. what. mineral or. dot.
At 0:37 seconds you don't describe any special technique. Just squeeze the tire in towards the rim?!? I can assure you I have a tire and rim combo where you will not be able to unseat the bead without using tools. That's the point in this video where you lose all credibility. Fortunately, youtube will allow me to block you from future recommendations.
What's really offensive is your smug attitude. You claim it is just a matter of technique yet skip over a critically difficult step without showing any technique, or certainly no technique that will work with all tires.
@@danielthomson5188 Interesting take on things. It sounds like you're talking about removal of a tire "stuck" to the side of the rim, which wasn't the subject of the video. I'll have to do a separate video on that, but I'm still looking for whatever magic tricks there might be on fat tubeless mountain bike tires. Those can be a nightmare.
Completely useless vid. Contis that have been on the rim for a while are not even remotly hard to install. Get a fresh one out of the box a 5000 str then we are talking.
I'll try to remember to do an updated video with the next pair of 5000s I install. Any particular rim that's having issues? Tubeless or tube? Most of what I'll be installing will be on Bontrager Aeolus Pro carbon wheels.
hey mike thanks for response. i dont have any problems installing them, just wanted to point out that at least in my experience its 10x easier to reinstall a already used tire compared to a fresh out of the box one.@@mikejacoubowsky4544
I just installed a brand new Conti 5000s on an Aeolus Elite rim. The technique worked flawlessly. Pinching the tire under tension (4m30s in) made the difference. The previous time I got blisters.
@@Gufolicious No question a previously-installed tire will be easier, but I don't think it's because the bead stretches (the common assumption) but rather the tire has become a bit more supple and some of the material surrounding the bead might have been abraded smooth.
These tires make it look lickety split! The grip and thumb palm strength I gained installing glued on tubulars back in the day , I could crack walnuts😅😅
Yes, those of us who grew up on tubulars (sew-ups) developed superhuman skills and strength! :-) I don't miss dealing with rim cement.
@@mikejacoubowsky4544 yes fellow superhero! Although this tape now sure makes it easy, simple, and clean!!! 💪🏽
Don’t ever use levers! You’ll thank me later.
Nicely done.
How about trying to remove tire when the bead is stuck in the rim? Had that happen where my gatorskins wouldn't go into the middle of rim on removal and I ended up using a paint can opener to free the tire...
Cheers
Yes, that can be a real challenge! For me, it's a bigger issue on "fat" tires than road. I'm still trying to find the best technique for stuck beads. In general, it helps to apply a lot of force over a very small area (with your hands, pushing the tire into the middle of the rim). Sometimes it just takes a bit of time until it finally starts to give up.