Watching this demonstration actually made me think the peel and stick underlayment would make even more sense. It has adhesion across the entire surface and you wouldn’t have surface penetrations with all those staples or nails. I really appreciate these demonstrations with third party testers! Thank you Corbett team! 😊
Youre refering to ice and water barrier. It still gets stapled and nailed thru but its a self healing membrane in a way. Its main benefit is preventing ice dams but has value over lower slope roofs too. 3:12/4:12 it can save you some headaches as the roof ages.
@@godknowsimstupid7848 When I re-roofed in 2014, 5/8 treated plywood with 2.5" ring-shank mails. !00% Grace Ice & Water Shield. Had to stop the roofer applying the shingles, they were only using 4 nails instead of the 6 required for high wind areas, Two hurricanes, few tropical storms & roof mount solar, no leaks.
@@godknowsimstupid7848 I think its suppose to help with water intrusion due to ice daming, but to actually prevent ice dams you can only do that with proper venting under the roof and potentially some insulation in the overhang. You need the underside of the roof to be cold so it won't melt any of the snow from the bottom
Peel and stick still doesn't seal. I believe it will say that on package. Its ease of install and its tougher for wind to rip off once adhered. Any through nails might get a bit of seal effect. It still leaks. When my roof was done they missed a bunch of nails. And as they walked on the underlayment, they would puncture. The rain found those holes.
When I went to do my parents roof in Clearwater, Florida we renailed the roof deck, put Ice and Water shield on the entire roof using button caps and sealed all the valley edges and drip edge ends. Two hurricane later still in great shape. A neighbor recently had theirs done by a Florida company and after the last hurricane they had water in their living room. With the weather we have now you can’t over do a roof. It is probably the most important part of a home and people want to cut costs. Crazy
Fortified has great manuals online. Their diagrams make it easy to follow system. On my house we did the forcefield osb and tape. If you are are really confident in your system you can delay putting on finish roof until a good rain. We found a nail hole where the nail gun must have not had a fastener and punched a hole in the barrier. One piece of tape and we are confident if the metal roof goes the sheathing is still pretty watertight.
I would definitely closely inspect or have inspected any new/replacement roof installation. My roofer was shocked that I actually went up on our roof after they finished and checked all the nailing patterns and how the pipe boots and ridge vents were installed. Even though this company was a “platinum” installer for the brand of shingles we used, they failed to follow proper installation instructions and voided the warranties for every product they installed on our roof. It looked perfect from the ground, but the work was actually terrible! They ended up having to tear off and completely replace our brand new roof.
On my first property they put short shingles so a roof rotten through in less than 10 years with second house I knew where to start . Roofers did not bother to install new rubber boots on vent pipes water were going into a wall
Enjoy your show. I live in the Bahamas and although not required by code most roof construction, new & renovation, use only a peel & stick under-layment like Grace Ice & Water Shield over usually 5/8 plywood. OSB is not permitted.
A vendor sent me the 150-page presentation for a fortified roof. As an electrical engineer, the first alarm that goes off is to look for the marketing. No detail is giving about shiplap roofs. It appears like they want to sell plywood and OSB roofs with no mention on 3/4-inch shiplap roofs. They did recommend the nail length along with an annular nail that doesn't pull out. But the flashing around the perimeter of the house is standard construction for a roof and nothing is new on the flashing. I did like how they did testing on roof shingles. And they did give blocking details for the soffit and only was need it if the soffit overhang was over X inches plus. X = 16 inches (might be 20). They also showed how gables failed and recommended how to build blocking support and recommended the elimination of gables. Shiplap is pricy, I recently purchased 6 boards 12 ft long for about $200 for a remodeling project for a house built in Houston in 1974. i'm using it for the attic. I have an engineering background, A&P license, pest control background, large construction experience for large projects, and carpentry experience.
Well, DR Horton is being sued for a big batch of homes that were labeled Fortified, but in fact were not. Allegedly. So not sure I’d trust that group of top-20 too much on it.
Will I be the only person who asks this question (hopefully not) but if I am do I get a prize? :) What about using the ZIP system for the roof sheathing? I know Dr. Cope said that the preferred material for roof sheathing was plywood rather than OSB (which is what ZIP is made with) and then later on in the video she talked about how important it was to properly fasten down the roofing underlayment as well as taping the seams to help prevent water from entering the attic but ZIP sheathing already has an integrated WRB layer and you HAVE to tape the seams in order to get their “leak-free guarantee”. If using ZIP is acceptable is it just a matter of increasing the number of fasteners along the edges of the sheathing panel for it to qualify as a Fortified Roof (because the OSB is not as strong as plywood)?
I really love your channel and have learned a lot. However, my iPhone is blitzing me with “Fortified,” which leads me to believe it’s a marketing hype. Perhaps it could be like a certification program so the consumer can get a minimum product.
There are Fortified-certified pros and projects, but you don't have to do that, you could just follow the recipe, in which case IBHS doesn't make a dime from you. It's being hyped by a lot of people because it can save a lot of damage $$$.
As a roofing contractor, this was a horrible display and demonstration. No one uses tar paper anymore. Its all synthetic. They failed to replicate the nails that wouldve been in the roof as well. The comment about getting a new roof every couple years I literally laughed out loud about. The seam tape isnt a bad idea, but if thats whats saving you, youre already 2 failures in. Even a basic Timberline shingles wind rating is in the 130 to 155mph range properly installed. About that the decking can and likely will get blown off. Overall, poorly thought out video that will encourage people to overpay for a roof and not get any value for it. Theyd be better served finding a quality roofer, with consistently good installations and a good warranty on top of the manufacturers warranty. Seam tape is like making sure the 3rd clip of your home defense gun is loaded with hollow points. Buddy if youre on the 3rd clip youve got bigger problems.
I have to agree, and this isn't how roofs fail anyway. Normally either improperly nailed shingles for quick failures, or condensation rotting away the sheating from the bottom for longer term failures. Maybe thats why they wanted plywood, takes longer to rott. So if you install properly and have correct ventalation for the roof it shouldn't be a problem. I think the taped seams on a roof are more for construction, so they can dry in the house without having to wait for the full roof installation. Like you said, get a quality roofer who can hire people to put nails inside the strip (not a high bar), get the details right and you'll be good to go. Anyone willing to spend the money on these details should at least be able and willing to afford a good roofer. I might still do more on dormers and other high risk areas though
What they're demonstrating here is the sealing of the roof deck, and how important that is to having a properly fortified roof. It's not the only component, but it is an important one. The actual construction methods they show here are correct, according to the national building code. So, they're showing you how bad it could be, versus what it should look like if you use the proper fortified building techniques.
@@HomePerformance the point of my post above, that they don't just come off in high wind, they come off on high wind if the roof decking is rotted (so the nails can't hold), or simply an improperly nailed off set of shingles. Surprisingly the thing that protects a roof in high winds is air sealing between the attic and conditioned space! That's where the smart money needs to be.
Every properly applied and maintained roof I’ve ever had dealings with with families or myself so always last 20 to 30+ years. This year we’re about to add a roller applied membrane coat on top of our Armstrong foam roofing that was applied in 1988 still in absolutely excellent condition should go for another 30+ years off of one roof flat roof.
Watching this demonstration actually made me think the peel and stick underlayment would make even more sense. It has adhesion across the entire surface and you wouldn’t have surface penetrations with all those staples or nails. I really appreciate these demonstrations with third party testers! Thank you Corbett team! 😊
High five buddy!
Youre refering to ice and water barrier. It still gets stapled and nailed thru but its a self healing membrane in a way. Its main benefit is preventing ice dams but has value over lower slope roofs too. 3:12/4:12 it can save you some headaches as the roof ages.
@@godknowsimstupid7848 When I re-roofed in 2014, 5/8 treated plywood with 2.5" ring-shank mails. !00% Grace Ice & Water Shield. Had to stop the roofer applying the shingles, they were only using 4 nails instead of the 6 required for high wind areas, Two hurricanes, few tropical storms & roof mount solar, no leaks.
@@godknowsimstupid7848 I think its suppose to help with water intrusion due to ice daming, but to actually prevent ice dams you can only do that with proper venting under the roof and potentially some insulation in the overhang. You need the underside of the roof to be cold so it won't melt any of the snow from the bottom
Peel and stick still doesn't seal. I believe it will say that on package.
Its ease of install and its tougher for wind to rip off once adhered. Any through nails might get a bit of seal effect.
It still leaks. When my roof was done they missed a bunch of nails. And as they walked on the underlayment, they would puncture. The rain found those holes.
When I went to do my parents roof in Clearwater, Florida we renailed the roof deck, put Ice and Water shield on the entire roof using button caps and sealed all the valley edges and drip edge ends. Two hurricane later still in great shape. A neighbor recently had theirs done by a Florida company and after the last hurricane they had water in their living room. With the weather we have now you can’t over do a roof. It is probably the most important part of a home and people want to cut costs. Crazy
👍🏽🫵🏽
Fortified has great manuals online. Their diagrams make it easy to follow system. On my house we did the forcefield osb and tape. If you are are really confident in your system you can delay putting on finish roof until a good rain. We found a nail hole where the nail gun must have not had a fastener and punched a hole in the barrier. One piece of tape and we are confident if the metal roof goes the sheathing is still pretty watertight.
I would definitely closely inspect or have inspected any new/replacement roof installation. My roofer was shocked that I actually went up on our roof after they finished and checked all the nailing patterns and how the pipe boots and ridge vents were installed. Even though this company was a “platinum” installer for the brand of shingles we used, they failed to follow proper installation instructions and voided the warranties for every product they installed on our roof. It looked perfect from the ground, but the work was actually terrible! They ended up having to tear off and completely replace our brand new roof.
What a terrible story, Debra, sorry to hear it
They often forget the bathroom vents also. Leaving them in the attic and roof over the hole.
On my first property they put short shingles so a roof rotten through in less than 10 years with second house I knew where to start . Roofers did not bother to install new rubber boots on vent pipes water were going into a wall
Enjoy your show. I live in the Bahamas and although not required by code most roof construction, new & renovation, use only a peel & stick under-layment like Grace Ice & Water Shield over usually 5/8 plywood. OSB is not permitted.
Good to hear George. Love Abaco.
Fortified roofs are a great component and they work. I have been a fortified evaluator for years and they did so well during hurricane sally.
Great demonstration. Thank you for sharing.
👍🏽👍🏽
A vendor sent me the 150-page presentation for a fortified roof. As an electrical engineer, the first alarm that goes off is to look for the marketing. No detail is giving about shiplap roofs. It appears like they want to sell plywood and OSB roofs with no mention on 3/4-inch shiplap roofs. They did recommend the nail length along with an annular nail that doesn't pull out. But the flashing around the perimeter of the house is standard construction for a roof and nothing is new on the flashing. I did like how they did testing on roof shingles. And they did give blocking details for the soffit and only was need it if the soffit overhang was over X inches plus. X = 16 inches (might be 20). They also showed how gables failed and recommended how to build blocking support and recommended the elimination of gables. Shiplap is pricy, I recently purchased 6 boards 12 ft long for about $200 for a remodeling project for a house built in Houston in 1974. i'm using it for the attic. I have an engineering background, A&P license, pest control background, large construction experience for large projects, and carpentry experience.
So which of the production builders (who primarily build affordable housing) are using this technique?
Well, DR Horton is being sued for a big batch of homes that were labeled Fortified, but in fact were not. Allegedly. So not sure I’d trust that group of top-20 too much on it.
My 2004 construction house is 19 years old on the same roof. Dang I guess I've missed about 9 roof replacements.....
Will I be the only person who asks this question (hopefully not) but if I am do I get a prize? :)
What about using the ZIP system for the roof sheathing? I know Dr. Cope said that the preferred material for roof sheathing was plywood rather than OSB (which is what ZIP is made with) and then later on in the video she talked about how important it was to properly fasten down the roofing underlayment as well as taping the seams to help prevent water from entering the attic but ZIP sheathing already has an integrated WRB layer and you HAVE to tape the seams in order to get their “leak-free guarantee”.
If using ZIP is acceptable is it just a matter of increasing the number of fasteners along the edges of the sheathing panel for it to qualify as a Fortified Roof (because the OSB is not as strong as plywood)?
ZIP is considered better than code for sure, so the answer is yes, that sounds legit Ryan. Keep staying ahead of the curve.
I really love your channel and have learned a lot. However, my iPhone is blitzing me with “Fortified,” which leads me to believe it’s a marketing hype. Perhaps it could be like a certification program so the consumer can get a minimum product.
There are Fortified-certified pros and projects, but you don't have to do that, you could just follow the recipe, in which case IBHS doesn't make a dime from you. It's being hyped by a lot of people because it can save a lot of damage $$$.
I pray to the Lord on high that I don't have to replace my roof "every couple of years"...I will definitely tape my seams (zip)
so why not metal roofing?
funny enough over here on the other side of the world metal roofing is the norm and shingles are a "premium" option.
I asked, they haven’t tested any because it’s the minority here AND it would perform better in most cases if applied properly.
500 bucks, and I bet you would have to beg a roofer to do this.
As a roofing contractor, this was a horrible display and demonstration. No one uses tar paper anymore. Its all synthetic. They failed to replicate the nails that wouldve been in the roof as well. The comment about getting a new roof every couple years I literally laughed out loud about. The seam tape isnt a bad idea, but if thats whats saving you, youre already 2 failures in. Even a basic Timberline shingles wind rating is in the 130 to 155mph range properly installed. About that the decking can and likely will get blown off.
Overall, poorly thought out video that will encourage people to overpay for a roof and not get any value for it. Theyd be better served finding a quality roofer, with consistently good installations and a good warranty on top of the manufacturers warranty.
Seam tape is like making sure the 3rd clip of your home defense gun is loaded with hollow points. Buddy if youre on the 3rd clip youve got bigger problems.
I have to agree, and this isn't how roofs fail anyway. Normally either improperly nailed shingles for quick failures, or condensation rotting away the sheating from the bottom for longer term failures. Maybe thats why they wanted plywood, takes longer to rott. So if you install properly and have correct ventalation for the roof it shouldn't be a problem.
I think the taped seams on a roof are more for construction, so they can dry in the house without having to wait for the full roof installation.
Like you said, get a quality roofer who can hire people to put nails inside the strip (not a high bar), get the details right and you'll be good to go. Anyone willing to spend the money on these details should at least be able and willing to afford a good roofer.
I might still do more on dormers and other high risk areas though
What they're demonstrating here is the sealing of the roof deck, and how important that is to having a properly fortified roof. It's not the only component, but it is an important one. The actual construction methods they show here are correct, according to the national building code. So, they're showing you how bad it could be, versus what it should look like if you use the proper fortified building techniques.
@@shubinternet I don't think it's code to have a stapled tar paper roof. I think code requires shingles or something else on top
The shingles come off in strong wind, is the point
@@HomePerformance the point of my post above, that they don't just come off in high wind, they come off on high wind if the roof decking is rotted (so the nails can't hold), or simply an improperly nailed off set of shingles. Surprisingly the thing that protects a roof in high winds is air sealing between the attic and conditioned space! That's where the smart money needs to be.
Every properly applied and maintained roof I’ve ever had dealings with with families or myself so always last 20 to 30+ years.
This year we’re about to add a roller applied membrane coat on top of our Armstrong foam roofing that was applied in 1988 still in absolutely excellent condition should go for another 30+ years off of one roof flat roof.