This man has very high caliber. His video is of a very high standard, the way he positions the camera is perfect and he moves it when required also he gives extra lighting for his viewer to enable them to fully see what he is doing. Added to this he gives a first-class explanation without any waffle and articulates the information in a very clear way, his tone of voice is easy to listen to and he gives extended pauses between sentences which cleverly keeps the viewer interested. In his first video, I thought he was overfussy with the engine but when you're inside a pump fussy=good. I'm very impressed by his mindset he is doing a top job well done to him.
You are a true craftsman. I've been here on this project from the beginning. It never ceases to amaze me how well the engineering accomplishes precision, with an analogue method. In the days before the chip, similar results were obtained mechanically. It takes a good deal of knowledge to know what to do on these systems. I really enjoy some of these older types of machines. Love watching them taken apart. Well done, sir.
That takes me back a long way. We had a "diesel room" where we had an engineer who worked on these, amongst others, and it was as spotless as a hospital surgical unit. Everything was flushed repeatedly with calibration fluid as the pumps were rebuilt, and much of the rebuild was carried out with the parts submerged in a fluid bath. There is a guy from Australia who has rebuilt a few of these, I'm not sure but I think his channel might be called "Aussie Workshop". In any case, he manages to rebuild these pumps with no special tools, and no special facilities - He buys his rebuild kits from "Sparex". Properly looked after, and with good clean fuel, these pumps can give decades of trouble free operation, and just looking around our yard at what I can seen - There are four tractors and one generator engine which use these DPA pumps, six if you count the small Perkins 4-108 with the hydraulically governed pump. The oldest of these is a David Brown 780 tractor from 1968, but they are all still going strong on original parts.
@@FixitFrank It could just be! - To be honest, I can't really remember what his channel is called, and for whatever reason, "Aussie Workshop" seemed to get stuck in my mind.
@@FixitFrank Well, here's one video that I saved, a long time ago, and you're right about Bundy Bear, though whether this is the video I had in mind originally is another matter. ruclips.net/video/h26p78YZIr4/видео.html&ab_channel=BundyBearsShed
At 57:40 there should be a small ball bearing that sits in a hole between the 2 o rings, it was missing on disassembly. Can we upvote this comment so he can see, it could cause a lot of problems down the line.
*- Impressive competence in understanding the workings of pump you had never seen, Mike.* *- Comprehending what you were disassembling sight unseen is like sight reading music.*
This by far the best video on resealing this pump. I have resealed several of this type of pump but have not taken the head apart. After watching this video, I will be saving it and tearing pumps down even further. Thank you
CAV injection pumps have poor response. The pump should have new weights and a new metering valve to improve the response time. The spring location you suggested in the bottom hole is correct. I always set gen-set pumps up in this location. The rpms will have to be reset. If you list the set code on the pump the numbers will list the factory position. Like 51E850/9/1890.... 9 would be in the bottom hole. So pull the cover back off and put it in the bottom hole. I would put the pump in the vise and run fuel to it and spin it over till all six were pumping and make sure the shut off is working before install. Normally the damper takes a small check ball in the side. Did you over look that?
Mike, If you were a farmer and went out and stood in your field, I would say you are out standing in your field. Even though you are not, you are still outstanding in your field 👏 🙌 😀
That's really cool. You've shown that the injector pump is not only like a gas engine distributor for timing but, also the entire assembly is the most complicated part on the engine. I really enjoy your videos both the engine and details of the generator components.
Happy New Year and another excellent video. What amazes me about the injector is that it was designed and built by people who used slide rules, drafting paper and French curves. I sometimes think we've lost something over the years.
Excellent! I was thinking of my first complete-sewing machine disassembly and re-fit. In the beginning, I wondered if it would work upon assembly but, at some point, I knew it would work.It worked and I was never again afraid of a rebuild.
Back in the 1970/80s I can remember truck operations here in New Zealand had a fair amount of issues with these rotary CAV injection pumps as compared to older style inline CAV ones. I do enjoy watching your interesting vlogs!
On a 354 Perkins. As long as you don't take the front timinig cover off of the engine, or remove the injection pump drive gears. The engine does not need 1 cylnder set to top dead center. The injection pump only fits the injection pump drive shaft 1 way and 1 way only.
Nice work! I have always been curious about how those pumps work, but never had the excuse to take one apart. I I'm familiar with in-line pumps, but those CAV pumps are beautiful in their simplicity. Thanks.
I really appreciate the way that you share your thought process about what you are expecting to find and what you actually find as you do the tear down and rebuild.
Back to what you do best Mike. Your "wrenching" is superb, the way you explain things makes it very easy to follow your video and very watchable. Hopefully you won't take a very long sabbatical next time you take a break. Cheers from OZ mate.
Great video fella, stripped many a CAV DPA pump, these pumps were manufactured 10 minutes from my house here in the UK, always good to see one being stripped and reassembled, p.s none of those nuts and bolts are metric, they are BSF (British Standard Fine) or should be 👍
I just wonder how much trial and error went into perfecting the final design of that pump. Absolute genius it is. It’s very interesting to see this pump apart.
Fantastic video, I've always been afraid to tear into one of these CAV pumps, I believe with this tutorial I could do it now. Matter of fact I've got one on a Ford 3000 that needs some love, gonna give it a try.
Great video Mike, I always enjoy the long ones. I've been looking forward to this video since your recent live stream. Also really looking forward to seeing how it performs back on the generator. I have a customer here in Australia who has a 70's mobile wobbly crane with a Perkins 6-354, with the same pump. His yard guy still uses the crane many times per day unloading trucks etc, and still going strong after all these years. This video gives me a good insight to how to remove, disassemble, reassemble and refit the pump, should I ever need to. Thanks for all the effort you put into making your interesting and very informative videos👍🇦🇺
Thank you for a great rebuild of the injection pump video. I have a 3 cylinder Perkins diesel, however it only has 25 hours on the gen set, but you provide good information.
I think 3 in 1 is a good choice for this operation, certainly a close relative of the fuel that will take over the lubrication pump once it's back in service
This Perkins engine was very common in Australia on tractors etc. The rotary pump has one unique issue, they do NOT like water getting into the diesel fuel. Make sure you have a good water separator filter on the fuel line. Otherwise the 354 Perkins is an incredibly good engine.........was in production for a long time, and had many iterations as it evolved.
Thank you thank you thank you! Haven't watched it all yet but I will probably end up watching several times. My boat has this pump and engine. BTW you are an excellent mechanic and troubleshooter. Great work.
The pump is 3262F888 this should have governor spring 7123-898J. The free length from inside of loops is 42.175mm. The pump was built in Rochester Kent UK. Production moved to Gillingham Kent where I still work in 1983-1985. Now BorgWarner after several takeovers and mergers.
perkin is a good product it was worth the effort and the watch it would be a privilege to own one and if you own something it is worth the knowledge to keep it well thank you very much for the share. stewardship is the key to all things. and you sir are a good steward. everything has a shelf life. you yourself / meaning all of us. can extend the life of anything and diesel engines have a life well extended past a gasoline engine if cared for properly. the diesel engine can pay for itself many times over per design. They're not as tangible as gold but damn near GOD bless the good doctor and his wares.
Yeaup this is why your city or town generators for different things ought to be gone through just in case just as a precaution and ran some if they haven’t been ran in a bit.
Many thanks for a well done tutorial..! I have a similar pump on my marine 4107, and it is doing well at the moment. If I have to get into it at some future point, I'll have you to thank for my courage..!
The little plug in the end of the advance piston cap is where the advance guage tool fits into when the pump is on the test bench. Did you put the little steel ball back into the side of the damper stud before you screwed it in. The little light spring in the bottom of the regular bore is to allow fuel to bypass the vane pump when you are priming the system with the hand lift pump.
I think your governor spring is okay. If it were stretched out or damaged it wouldn’t be perfectly even like that. It would have one or two coils stretched out but not all of them evenly spaced out. Still, I’ve never seen a tension spring look like yours does.
I would forget where all of the small parts go. You have an amazing memory if you can remember how to put the pump back together without some kind of documentation.
I saw those, and thought breather, but safety wire would be a more obvious choice, or maybe a wire type anti-tamper "seal". So if someone fiddled with it and it went bang they would know it had been got at. Pure conjecture but an intriguing thought. Mart.
good video enjoyed it very much I have a 1130 massey 354 turbo that shuts off after using it for awhile. Half hr to an hr. to get it running it always needs bled. Driving me nuts.
Had to fit a pump on a tractor but no master timing marks had to presurise pump with air to find no 1 cyl them time engine all ok common for old ford tractors we use to recon the pumps in house 40 years ago and injectors
Hello Mike. That was a very interesting video. That is a high precision piece of equipment. I've never laid hands on one, I'm a strictly points and condenser type of guy. I was surprised you were using metric sockets, Most British stuff from that era would have been SAE. The one bolt I could focus in on had GKN S on the head. GKN is a British company that made nuts and Bolts back in the day, and S denotes the tensile strength of the bolt. That one at least is SAE and I would imagine all the others are too. I look forward to the next instalment. Next time you see Roadking, tell him Mart says Hi. Nuffa Dis! Mart in England.
@@timgould5104 I noticed that the timing holes in the hydraulic head no longer looked completely round, they do wear differentially and can cause rough running, something I have had on engines fitted with the DPA. I have not looked at one for some years but seem to remember that the lable said something about Ohio machine screw company or some other US city prefixing Machine screw company.
Don't know whether its modern fuel additives but I've had a few Perkins and JD engines where the would not bleed fuel to the injectors. In every case it has been a stuck metering valve causing the problem. Deispite regular filter changes the fuel in the top area with the govenor spring etc in has looked like a silty pond !!
I rebuilt a butt load of those the 25yrs I worked at a fuel Injection shop. You did a great job 👍
This man has very high caliber. His video is of a very high standard, the way he positions the camera is perfect and he moves it when required also he gives extra lighting for his viewer to enable them to fully see what he is doing. Added to this he gives a first-class explanation without any waffle and articulates the information in a very clear way, his tone of voice is easy to listen to and he gives extended pauses between sentences which cleverly keeps the viewer interested. In his first video, I thought he was overfussy with the engine but when you're inside a pump fussy=good. I'm very impressed by his mindset he is doing a top job well done to him.
Joy to watch analytical mind combined with common sense, patience and passion.
You are a true craftsman. I've been here on this project from the beginning. It never ceases to amaze me how well the engineering accomplishes precision, with an analogue method. In the days before the chip, similar results were obtained mechanically. It takes a good deal of knowledge to know what to do on these systems. I really enjoy some of these older types of machines. Love watching them taken apart. Well done, sir.
That takes me back a long way. We had a "diesel room" where we had an engineer who worked on these, amongst others, and it was as spotless as a hospital surgical unit. Everything was flushed repeatedly with calibration fluid as the pumps were rebuilt, and much of the rebuild was carried out with the parts submerged in a fluid bath.
There is a guy from Australia who has rebuilt a few of these, I'm not sure but I think his channel might be called "Aussie Workshop". In any case, he manages to rebuild these pumps with no special tools, and no special facilities - He buys his rebuild kits from "Sparex".
Properly looked after, and with good clean fuel, these pumps can give decades of trouble free operation, and just looking around our yard at what I can seen - There are four tractors and one generator engine which use these DPA pumps, six if you count the small Perkins 4-108 with the hydraulically governed pump. The oldest of these is a David Brown 780 tractor from 1968, but they are all still going strong on original parts.
Awesome info...thank you!
BundyBearsShed ?
@@FixitFrank It could just be! - To be honest, I can't really remember what his channel is called, and for whatever reason, "Aussie Workshop" seemed to get stuck in my mind.
@@28YorkshireRose12 If he titles his videos with something about Kangaroo stew, then thats him. He has a bunch of vids on diesel fuel injector pumps.
@@FixitFrank Well, here's one video that I saved, a long time ago, and you're right about Bundy Bear, though whether this is the video I had in mind originally is another matter.
ruclips.net/video/h26p78YZIr4/видео.html&ab_channel=BundyBearsShed
At 57:40 there should be a small ball bearing that sits in a hole between the 2 o rings, it was missing on disassembly. Can we upvote this comment so he can see, it could cause a lot of problems down the line.
*- Impressive competence in understanding the workings of pump you had never seen, Mike.*
*- Comprehending what you were disassembling sight unseen is like sight reading music.*
Hi Mike,
Its really amazing that you remembered how to put it back together...I would've left more than the oring out...thanks for takng ur time
This by far the best video on resealing this pump. I have resealed several of this type of pump but have not taken the head apart. After watching this video, I will be saving it and tearing pumps down even further. Thank you
CAV injection pumps have poor response. The pump should have new weights and a new metering valve to improve the response time. The spring location you suggested in the bottom hole is correct. I always set gen-set pumps up in this location. The rpms will have to be reset. If you list the set code on the pump the numbers will list the factory position. Like 51E850/9/1890.... 9 would be in the bottom hole. So pull the cover back off and put it in the bottom hole. I would put the pump in the vise and run fuel to it and spin it over till all six were pumping and make sure the shut off is working before install. Normally the damper takes a small check ball in the side. Did you over look that?
Great timing. Thanks for the videos. We love them.
Mike, If you were a farmer and went out and stood in your field, I would say you are out standing in your field. Even though you are not, you are still outstanding in your field 👏 🙌 😀
That's really cool. You've shown that the injector pump is not only like a gas engine distributor for timing but, also the entire assembly is the most complicated part on the engine. I really enjoy your videos both the engine and details of the generator components.
Happy New Year and another excellent video. What amazes me about the injector is that it was designed and built by people who used slide rules, drafting paper and French curves. I sometimes think we've lost something over the years.
The precision of these analog systems is amazing. Something special about it even in today’s world of microprocessor controlled everything.
Excellent! I was thinking of my first complete-sewing machine disassembly and re-fit. In the beginning, I wondered if it would work upon assembly but, at some point, I knew it would work.It worked and I was never again afraid of a rebuild.
Back in the 1970/80s I can remember truck operations here in New Zealand had a fair amount of issues with these rotary CAV injection pumps as compared to older style inline CAV ones. I do enjoy watching your interesting vlogs!
A pleasure to see your teach and work.Thank you Mike greetings from Dublin Ireland
On a 354 Perkins. As long as you don't take the front timinig cover off of the engine, or remove the injection pump drive gears. The engine does not need 1 cylnder set to top dead center. The injection pump only fits the injection pump drive shaft 1 way and 1 way only.
Nice work!
I have always been curious about how those pumps work, but never had the excuse to take one apart.
I I'm familiar with in-line pumps, but those CAV pumps are beautiful in their simplicity.
Thanks.
A lot of important points made by viewers.
Excellent demonstrative teaching video. It appears that the life of a diesel engine is in the fuel system. Thanx.
I really appreciate the way that you share your thought process about what you are expecting to find and what you actually find as you do the tear down and rebuild.
Back to what you do best Mike. Your "wrenching" is superb, the way you explain things makes it very easy to follow your video and very watchable. Hopefully you won't take a very long sabbatical next time you take a break. Cheers from OZ mate.
Great video fella, stripped many a CAV DPA pump, these pumps were manufactured 10 minutes from my house here in the UK, always good to see one being stripped and reassembled, p.s none of those nuts and bolts are metric, they are BSF (British Standard Fine) or should be 👍
UNF unified national fine . AF across flats is the size in imperial
Good job mike. I work on diesel pumps every day and i can tell you you did it perfectly
Excellent video Mike, thanks for taking the time to show us
Great work on the injection pump, so relaxing watching your work. Thank you!
I just wonder how much trial and error went into perfecting the final design of that pump. Absolute genius it is. It’s very interesting to see this pump apart.
Outstanding job! very simple and reliable engines are those Perkins, there are still plenty of them here in Argentina
This was a great video , thanks for taking the time to film the hole thing . looking forward to seeing it run .
good observation on the governor spring, it might not have enough force (or tension) when the metering valve is close to the full open position
Another excellent video, Mike! I can't wait to see it perform! Thank you for such detail, as always, my friend!
Your audio is working great on this video. thanks
Fantastic video, I've always been afraid to tear into one of these CAV pumps, I believe with this tutorial I could do it now. Matter of fact I've got one on a Ford 3000 that needs some love, gonna give it a try.
Great video Mike, I always enjoy the long ones. I've been looking forward to this video since your recent live stream. Also really looking forward to seeing how it performs back on the generator. I have a customer here in Australia who has a 70's mobile wobbly crane with a Perkins 6-354, with the same pump. His yard guy still uses the crane many times per day unloading trucks etc, and still going strong after all these years. This video gives me a good insight to how to remove, disassemble, reassemble and refit the pump, should I ever need to. Thanks for all the effort you put into making your interesting and very informative videos👍🇦🇺
Got to love the Rolls Royce engine, as Perkins is Rolls Royce. I've had a Perkins gen set that had a set of Rolls Royce headers.
Thank you for a great rebuild of the injection pump video. I have a 3 cylinder Perkins diesel, however it only has 25 hours on the gen set, but you provide good information.
I think 3 in 1 is a good choice for this operation, certainly a close relative of the fuel that will take over the lubrication pump once it's back in service
This Perkins engine was very common in Australia on tractors etc. The rotary pump has one unique issue, they do NOT like water getting into the diesel fuel. Make sure you have a good water separator filter on the fuel line. Otherwise the 354 Perkins is an incredibly good engine.........was in production for a long time, and had many iterations as it evolved.
Great video. They are so interesting to watch. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Nice job on that pump. Can't wait to see it in action on the next video!
Thank you thank you thank you! Haven't watched it all yet but I will probably end up watching several times. My boat has this pump and engine. BTW you are an excellent mechanic and troubleshooter. Great work.
I have full faith on you mike you are smart and pick up things fast , you the men ,let me know if I would be any help
Take care sir
Excellent teardown and reassembly Mike! I would have had at least one part roll under the bench into obscurity! =D
But you're a pro. I'd had to haul it off to someone that worked on them. I just run them, remember?
I was pumped to watch this video! Thanks!
I really love your videos...so much great information!
And I definitely like that you show pretty much everything step-by-step :)
The pump is 3262F888 this should have governor spring 7123-898J. The free length from inside of loops is 42.175mm. The pump was built in Rochester Kent UK. Production moved to Gillingham Kent where I still work in 1983-1985. Now BorgWarner after several takeovers and mergers.
perkin is a good product it was worth the effort and the watch it would be a privilege to own one and if you own something it is worth the knowledge to keep it well thank you very much for the share. stewardship is the key to all things. and you sir are a good steward. everything has a shelf life. you yourself / meaning all of us. can extend the life of anything and diesel engines have a life well extended past a gasoline engine if cared for properly.
the diesel engine can pay for itself many times over per design. They're not as tangible as gold but damn near GOD bless the good doctor and his wares.
Yeaup this is why your city or town generators for different things ought to be gone through just in case just as a precaution and ran some if they haven’t been ran in a bit.
Many thanks for a well done tutorial..! I have a similar pump on my marine 4107, and it is doing well at the moment. If I have to get into it at some future point, I'll have you to thank for my courage..!
The little plug in the end of the advance piston cap is where the advance guage tool fits into when the pump is on the test bench.
Did you put the little steel ball back into the side of the damper stud before you screwed it in.
The little light spring in the bottom of the regular bore is to allow fuel to bypass the vane pump when you are priming the system with the hand lift pump.
Fascinating, I've never seen one of those apart, despite owning several
I think your governor spring is okay. If it were stretched out or damaged it wouldn’t be perfectly even like that. It would have one or two coils stretched out but not all of them evenly spaced out. Still, I’ve never seen a tension spring look like yours does.
Red cap plugs. In my 32 years as a wrecking yard engine and transmission mechanic, I installed thousands of those.
Good job you will tackle anything
Bundy Bears Shed did a video on a Massey Ferguson pump for a farm tractor a couple of years ago and it got an unbelievable amount of views worldwide.
Gotta love adult puzzles
I would forget where all of the small parts go. You have an amazing memory if you can remember how to put the pump back together without some kind of documentation.
I'm sure he's got a manual and takes pictures during disassembly.
@@justinevans5616 And of course, this video is in itself a documentary record of the disassembly.
@@28YorkshireRose12 But I would hope he has the referance blowups.
Can’t wait to see the power up!
It's a good thing that you know how to put that to getter
Just letting you know I'm fairly certain the outlet tube bolts are imperial 9/16th which is just alittle large than 14mm.
Metering valve is meant to have the notch. Gives a more progressive opening.
Mike, next time your at the dentist, ask the hygienist for some of the old picks and tools, they renew them often and their of the best quality.
Excellent work and great video. Thank you
Very well serviced and should deliver fuel appropriately as designed. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Mike, keep the videos coming!
You can remove and install that pump with the engine in any position.
A very intricate pump
Ironically, these CAV pumps are some of the simplest ones out there.
The small caps have holes …. Maybe for safety wire? Excellent work and incredible video!
I saw those, and thought breather, but safety wire would be a more obvious choice, or maybe a wire type anti-tamper "seal". So if someone fiddled with it and it went bang they would know it had been got at. Pure conjecture but an intriguing thought. Mart.
I think I saw safety wire through those holes before he dismantled the pump. See that video.
good video enjoyed it very much I have a 1130 massey 354 turbo that shuts off after using it for awhile. Half hr to an hr. to get it running it always needs bled. Driving me nuts.
Nice job...enjoyed....with some anxiety.....😅. Thanks! -Tom
Good job! I think i got this now. Thanks for doing these videos!
Awesome video and very informative!
Nice work Mike, great tutorial on this cool engine.
Another great video, thanks Mike.
awesome job cleaning that pump.
i am thinking some of the older international farmall tractors has the same pump if you are looking for that spring.
Had to fit a pump on a tractor but no master timing marks had to presurise pump with air to find no 1 cyl them time engine all ok common for old ford tractors we use to recon the pumps in house 40 years ago and injectors
Great job Mike.
It looks new out of the box.
Good job very informative as always
Hello Mike. That was a very interesting video. That is a high precision piece of equipment. I've never laid hands on one, I'm a strictly points and condenser type of guy. I was surprised you were using metric sockets, Most British stuff from that era would have been SAE. The one bolt I could focus in on had GKN S on the head. GKN is a British company that made nuts and Bolts back in the day, and S denotes the tensile strength of the bolt. That one at least is SAE and I would imagine all the others are too. I look forward to the next instalment. Next time you see Roadking, tell him Mart says Hi. Nuffa Dis! Mart in England.
Every bolt on it is standard, not metric.. Hurt to watch him with the metric wrenches.
Excellent tutorial. 😊🇬🇧
Nice job Mike!
Acording to my CAV DPA hand book they also call it the hydraulic head.
Correct. Later pumps (DP200 series)have axial outlets to delete the radial banjo bolts and remove a major leak path.
@@timgould5104 I noticed that the timing holes in the hydraulic head no longer looked completely round, they do wear differentially and can cause rough running, something I have had on engines fitted with the DPA. I have not looked at one for some years but seem to remember that the lable said something about Ohio machine screw company or some other US city prefixing Machine screw company.
As a side note the injection pump damper is for a smoother idle. Generators don't idle so it is not necessary on your application.
There was moisture in the system. Lots of tarnish and fungus growing in it. Put some fuel conditioner in the tank
Like your videos only ask myself when you start the build off the big cat engine
Greeting from the Netherlands
Impressive rebuild. Very interesting video... :-)
Interesting honestly
I have 2 stanadyne pumps I said I'll get into just to see what happens . I have Ben that brave yet.
Don't know whether its modern fuel additives but I've had a few Perkins and JD engines where the would not bleed fuel to the injectors. In every case it has been a stuck metering valve causing the problem. Deispite regular filter changes the fuel in the top area with the govenor spring etc in has looked like a silty pond !!
Nicely done
Great video Mike but I’m really surprised to see you using metric tools on what are imperial bolts. Unless they changed really late on.
Great video very understanding
The code on the side of the pump relates to the springposition in the inside 3+3 holes!
Thought a gearbox was serious but this looks as bad amount of bits and pieces go into that part is scary great posting 👌👍
Mine had a ball in the damper hole between the o rings. They was a new one in the kit.
I looked up the spec and did the conversion, 4.98 Mike-pounds, so you should be fine
My spring in the top co er is like yours. So that's likely correct.
The timing is connected with the inside lockring position on some pumps,remember to mark if you take it out!
Very well done.