@@ExitiumFelicitas That can take a long time - a year or sometimes more if you don't use herbicide. It also depends on the kind of tree and how well the girdle was performed. Did you see our video on killing a tree without chemicals? Kill Tree No Chemicals ruclips.net/video/aHj8UMwSMVU/видео.html
So we have them growing between our fence and our neighbors garage. There is only a 2' gap to work with and I certainly cannot fit between there. So I have to reach over the fence. Over the past couple years I have made the mistake (not knowing) of chopping them down as low as I could just to get rid of them but not permanently. They are a pain in the ass, I need recommendation on how to handle this situation. Again, not alot of room to work and the neighbors are lazy and could careless (out of site out of mind) however it is in my site and on my mind. Some tips would help. Thanks for the video
This is a tough situation. Your objective should be to expose as much of the inner bark as you can and as low on the tree as you can get. Then, immediately apply herbicide to that exposed surface. This should be done in late autumn or winter.
You can use a glyphosate product. Are you are in the southern U.S.? If so, consider waiting until the tree is dormant in early winter. Swamp maple does have high wildlife value if you can keep some of them on the property.
Round-up is considered harmful to dogs and cats if ingested, or if external contact when still wet. Where I live they display it only in a locked cabinet. I'm surprised at the answer you were given by Green Shoots!! Just google it...
Yes, in fact, with big trees and lots of trees to deal with, it's the only way to go. Obviously, the trees will remain standing, so make sure the dead trees - snags - are not near lots of human activity. Usually, I find the snags gradually decay and weigh less over time. When they do come down, they often fall into other nearby trees. The snags also provide great wildlife habitat for insect loving birds, etc.
Yes, absolutely. fall and winter are the best times to do the treatment. You can do a cut stump treatment. For the suckers, make sure you cut and treat them. Cut all the stems within a few inches of the ground before treating.
That's a bad situation. Cocklebur is an annual so the best time to apply an herbicide is in the spring when the weeds are small. Once the burs form, the only thing to do is to harvest them and burn or dispose of them.
I bought a gorgeous condo last Fall and paid waaaay more because it had a Lake view. I was pretty happy with the beauty of it all. I actually never noticed the maple tree lightly over to the side because it had no leaves at the time of purchase. (and it was generic, not even a nice maple). Well it grew about 3 feet taller over the past 4 months and of course wider and now I no longer have the lake view I paid for. I'm pretty choked. I can't do anything obvious like girdling or even drilling holes because there are too many eyes from all the other condos. I'm thinking about either pouring a 5 gallon container of roundup around it some night, or perhaps a ton of salt. I don't live in the US and have never seen Tordon or I would get that. Any great ideas.
DO NOT dump 5 gal of round up you will unnecessarily contaminate the area with a known carcinogen. People are so gullible, assuming that if it's available for purchase, it must be safe. Corporations lie and cover up the truth about their products all of the time. As for your tree, consider petitioning the condo association to hire a tree service to trim the offending limbs. Do some research on your rights first b/c if your request is likely to be denied any subsequent action you take to solve the problem on your own is likely to raise suspicions when people notice that the tree's health took a turn for the worse. Before taking matters into your own hands, you need to carefully consider the consequences of your actions. Are you willing to lie about it if people question your involvement? I wouldn't lie. Are you willing to pay the consequences of getting caught? I would avoid taking action on your own if at all possible. If you decide to do something on your own, you could use a drill instead of a hatchet to drill shallow holes around the perimeter of the trunk in a random fashion. They should be deep enough to penetrate into the cambium and you would squirt something like roundup into the holes. Do this in the fall or early winter.
Take a batt operated drill, 1/2 wood auger, 6"deep, round up, a wooden dowel, and a cold rainy evening, waalllaaa. You get the picture, I've done it to some nasty prized Russian Elms, evasive but some prize them, it takes about 2 months, remove the shavings though. A bit of silicon and some bark scrapings, Sherlock Holmes will need to be smart.
I am completely overrun by the cursed tree of heaven (seriously. They are so thick you can't walk through them). Do I need to do the hack and squirt on every one, even if the trunk is very small? And what herbicide works best? I've tried a couple of things, like tordon, but it didn't work. It's highly likely I did it wrong but your video helps with that. Thank you!!
A few questions: How tall are the tree-of-heave (TOH) stems you are treating? Is at least part of the main stem still a pretty bright green? If so, you should be able to treat that green portion of the main stem (and the lower portions of the leafstalks (i.e., petioles)) using foam herbicide with glyphosate. The green stem will absorb that herbicide pretty well. (A stem with cork bark (usually gray or brown) won't absorb much at all unless you use an ester herbicide.) Do you remember which Tordon product you used? Did it have 2, 4-D?
@@GreenShoots All I know of the Tordon was it said RTU548 on it. Some of the bigger trees are grey, but most are small and green. I'm afraid there might be a rather extensive root system running through my entire back yard because I didn't know that cutting them down or pulling them up would cause them to send out more shoots. The initial bunch of trees was planted in the early 1960s on my property line (by the owners of the adjacent property) and its been a battle to control them ever since (they're coming up over two blocks from my property in the town). They most certainly are not a tree of heaven! If it'll work and with your help I'd like to purchase your foam herbicide and applicator.
@@cameronudall3502 Why don't you contact me and send me a couple photos so I can make a better assessment of whether our product would work for you - johnATgreenshootsonline.com. Late summer and early fall will be the perfect time to tackle it.
Molly, yes it would work. Just remember to be very careful with poison ivy - touching the sap from the cut stem will be just as bad as touching the leaves. Be sure to wear pretty thick disposable gloves and a long sleeve shirt. Launder clothes separately. Clean the tool you use to make the cut with alcohol afterwards. You want to be sure to treat the poison ivy when it's dormant. That means in the fall or winter or early spring before the sap starts rising.
In September 2015, I'm girdling Chinese trees of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) and painting the cuts with undiluted triclopyr. The trees start to die within 3-4 days.
Green Shoots Foam Herbicide is a product that our company offers. We offer a package that includes a special dispenser, the herbicide, and a blue foaming agent. It's blue so you can see what you have treated. The foam is nice because you can be very accurate with the application and it doesn't drip. If you have just a couple weed trees to kill, you can use Roundup and a paint brush. It should be roundup with an active ingredient above 10%. Just be extremely careful about drippage.
I drilled to 1/2” holes about 3” deep and filled the holes with gly4 .Wait about 10 minutes and fill the holes again.I did this until I used approximately 4 ounces on a large oak tree, a week later I noticed leaves were already turning brown.
There is a tree in the neighbours waste bit of land that is leaving loads of mess in my garden when stuff falls out of it,,,,,is there anything I can do to secretly kill it or stop it from growing leaves in the summer
This video pretty much describes how to kill a tree. However, I can't recommend using the techniques without permission. Ask the neighbor. Maybe they neighbor doesn't like the tree either!
If it's not salt friendly you can dump salt all over the base right before a good rain. Nobody will know. Rock salt works best but that's noticeable because it won't dissolve right away. Just a whole can of table salt every week should do it. However if it's real close to your own garden you may ruin your soil too
I live in Florida so the salt technique doesn't work. But 5 years ago my neighbor planted a tree within two feet of the fence/property line in their backyard. The backyards here are tiny... Like less then 50 ft across. It's a tree that is going to get very big. The tree is now at least 20 ft tall and a good chunk of it hangs over in my backyard. It's completely rude to do that especially if it burdens the neighbors around you where they have to spend money to cut the limbs. So I feel your pain. I'm going to kill that tree.
Sir Charles the neighbours are proper scruffy where this tree is and it’s on the waste land just behind there garden and the wind is always blowing the crap that falls from it only in my garden and on my kids trampoline,,got to be something I can do to kill it
Green Shoots I’ve asked the neighbour who is very scruffy and she said I can cut it a little bit on my side but it just keeps growing and the wind keeps blowing all the crap of it and it goes all over my kids trampoline
The two herbicides I mention are glyphosate and triclopyr. These are two chemicals that people can readily buy at quantities suitable for the general consumer. Either of these herbicides can be turned into a foam herbicide using our Green Shoots Foam Herbicide Technology.
A peepal tree keeps growing back from (a small pin hole )water outlet passage of my window, this window is right in the middle of my stair case. As the age of my house is more than 100yrs, I am worried. What to do??? Much help needed. Thank you.
@@GreenShoots yes exactly as I have no other choice. Had I another option then I would have gladly planted somewhere else. This is not the only place where this plant has cropped up,a few other are there, hence......
Ever successfully killed an invasive camphor tree? I girdled a couple in January & one had most of leaves die up top but now it’s starting a bunch of new sprouts around the base. Whats the minimal amount/percentage of an herbicide I can use to make them die?
I would follow the procedures in this video, and it should die. Be sure to do the notches below where you girdled the tree. Also, cut each sprout put foam herbicide on the cut face.
Green Shoots Thanks. I want these trees dead! lol They drop a ton of leaves plus their nasty berries & the row they are in also has 3 or 4 large oak trees too which also drop tons of leaves!
irondssgr----------- to get rid of knotweed you must dig roots out , it will take several years to do this . # in britain it is illegall to dig it out with a license to dispose of the roots afterwrds , as the roots will spread even worse then before !
Thank you for sharing this video! Your video helped me to rid of a Paulownia Tree on my property. However, I used Tordon RTU, and a wood chisel and it's already working within a week! Leaves are turning black and dropping like flies. Glad I worked on this in the fall. Hopefully the tree will completely die and avoid those shoots that often come up from the roots.
Started a few years back trying to kill locust trees by spraying them, Didn't work. Then cutting them, Didn't work. There are more of them now than what I started with. I will have to see if I can find this product locally then try it. I will have a nice field if I can get them out of there. Thanks for your video
Black locust are particularly difficult to get rid of, because they also reproduce in a colony, by sending shoots up through their roots, which can extend far from the drip line of the tree. Because of the extent of these roots. Full root penetration of herbicide may not be possible, and will often take up to three years to bring under control. The method I prefer is to drill 1/2 inch holes, three inches deep, at a slightly downward angle (so the herbicide doesn't drain out), and fill that with a full concentrate (or undiluted mix of at least 30%) of glysophate, with each hole no more than four inches apart. Fill each hole with the concentrate solution. Do this in late august, to mid September depending on your region. Four weeks after all of the leaves have fallen off in autumn, you can cut the main tree down above the application area. I recommend cutting the main tree down before the coming spring, so you don't have to risk cutting down a completely dead, and weathered tree that can be unpredictable when felling. You will likely still get shoots the next year, but those can often be managed by spraying, or mowing depending on his large they are. Diligence is key.
nunya bisnass you can also apply the same method to any exposed roots. Just keep in mind that the size of the hole to be drilled, should not be more than 1/4 of the diameter of the root.
Jim easily. Glyphosate is the active ingredient in roundup. Do not buy the name brand roundup concentrate, because it will be about $70 per gallon. You can order, or buy a one, or two gallon off brand jug online, or at certain agricultural supply stores like Agway, or tractor supply for about $30 per gallon. The difference between the two seems to be the surfactants used (the chemical that allows greater penetration into the plant), because when mixing highly concentrated solutions with tap water, roundup won't precipitate into a goo and clog your equipment. But many off brands will if you don't use enough water. It takes a little basic math, but I prefer to mix to a rough concentration of about 20% for the injection method described. Now there are other things to consider. You may only want to remove those trees that present a problem to property such as potential storm damage, or that you need that space for something else. The reason I suggest this is, because locust are nitrogen fixing trees. They can be highly beneficial for adding nitrogen to the soil, without the use of fertilisers. They are also a fairly dense wood that give a good amount of heat in a wood stove for their burn time. But I would only suggest using the wood above the application area, because I'm not a chemist, and do not know if the heat of the fire will change the glysophate into something toxic while burning.
Can I use pure Round-Up ( glyphosate 41%) without any dilation for a quick result for small to medium-sized trees? I had drilled 5-6 holes of 8mm wide and around 2 inches deep. Then I poured pure Round-Up with a syring in the hole.
Yes, you can. That strength is probably twice what you need. I am not generally a fan of techniques with drilled holes. The key is to expose as much of the inner bark (cambium) as possible. I think cuts with a hatchet or machete expose more of that live, inner bark. However, drilling can also do the trick. I usually reserve drilling for really large trees with thick bark.
That should work. Did you drill the holes through the bark into the live inner bark? And, did you inject the herbicide shortly after drilling the holes? (i.e., within 5-10 minutes) You only need about 20% active ingredient. It is amazing how little glyphosate is actually needed to do the job. The tree may take a long time to die.
Yes, i drilled around 4 inches inside with 8 mm drill. I think that much depth is enough to drill into inner bark and injected the roundup after drilling 5-6 holes, which took me not more than 7-8 minutes. Now I will wait and watch. The trees are medium size with the bark measuring from approx 12-18 inches in diameter.
I heard multiple people say gasoline will kill weeds and trees. but of course there is the issue if it's a hot day or if there's a spark ignited around it it could cause a fire.
I have a few invasive magnolia trees growing along the edge of my property and i'm worried the roots are going to damage my inground swimming pool. We have stunted a few with table salt, but what would be the best way to get them gone for good?
I would trim them back now, basically leaving a tall stump - waist to chest height. Then, in the fall or winter, cut them at just above ground level and do a cut stump treatment as outlined in the video using glyphosate or triclopyr. You could cut them nearer the ground now but you likely will have more sprouts that will have to be treated in the fall or winter.
You are welcome! This is a good time of year to apply because the trees are translocating sugars to the root system. Here is good advice from the Missouri Dept of Conservation on locust control: mdc.mo.gov/trees-plants/problem-plant-control/nuisance-native-plants/black-locust-control
I am glad you asked this question. I have searched, and I have never found one credible scientific report on this. I wish some scientist would study it! It would be helpful to have a study. However, I know of no land manager of public or private lands who uses this technique. If it really worked, I think those people would use the technique.
thanks green shoots....appreciate the advice....but I have goats that free range on my property and I need to know if thus stuff will poison them!!! I figure that with winter coming and the sap will be headed south that now is a good time to kill the stuff because I got it everywhere
Bruce i have not worked a lot with mesquite. Most experts recommend using triclopyr. For cut stem treatments, you could the Garlon 3A, which is the water-based triclopyr formulation. I would make sure you cut all the stems as close to the ground as possible. You might also try glyphosate. I have found it works well on many species if you cut the stem close to the ground (but not so close that you get dirt on it).
@@GreenShoots It has nothing to do with your property or a park, just about the tree. But if you cut down a tree in a park here, you'll probably end up in a mental institution as well.
@@maozedung7270 Got it. I fully understand why one can't cut a tree down in a park or on any one else's property without proper permission. In most states in the U.S., local regulations (city, county, etc.) govern tree removal. At the local level, you might have to get a permit to cut down a tree on your own property. However, if the trunk of the tree is on your property, you, the property holder, generally can decide. The exceptions I am aware of are for diseased trees - you might be forced to cut those down. And, in some states like California, there are restrictions on cutting down certain tree species (although I believe permits may allow you to cut those down, too).
I rather poison my world than having my backyard taken over by hundreds of unstoppable plants. Currently i’m plucking sprouts every single week. I’ll let some grow for this summer and then poison it with Roundup like this video describes.
@@Engineer9736 Plucking sprouts is a nuisance. Eating poison is deadly. an interesting choice,,,, but I guess each person should be allowed to make his own choice.
Joseph Richardson You are stubborn. The roots of invasive plants can run for 10+ meters. You’ll have to dig up your whole backyard and not miss a single root or it will start all over again. Herbicide is the only solution. Just cutting the tree is the biggest mistake anyone makes who does not know these plants. Then the roots go wild and start prouting everywhere.
How much time it will die?
How long will it take for a tree to die after doing one of these treatments? Can you be more specific?
yes specifically asking about girdling when the tree is striped around its bole.@@GreenShoots
@@ExitiumFelicitas That can take a long time - a year or sometimes more if you don't use herbicide. It also depends on the kind of tree and how well the girdle was performed. Did you see our video on killing a tree without chemicals? Kill Tree No Chemicals
ruclips.net/video/aHj8UMwSMVU/видео.html
@@GreenShoots thanks I'll watch that video
So we have them growing between our fence and our neighbors garage. There is only a 2' gap to work with and I certainly cannot fit between there. So I have to reach over the fence. Over the past couple years I have made the mistake (not knowing) of chopping them down as low as I could just to get rid of them but not permanently. They are a pain in the ass, I need recommendation on how to handle this situation. Again, not alot of room to work and the neighbors are lazy and could careless (out of site out of mind) however it is in my site and on my mind. Some tips would help. Thanks for the video
This is a tough situation. Your objective should be to expose as much of the inner bark as you can and as low on the tree as you can get. Then, immediately apply herbicide to that exposed surface. This should be done in late autumn or winter.
UT oh. Does this mean the foliar application to the sumac tree might not be enough?
That depends on so many factors. You would have to give a little more background. Sumac is pretty hardy.
Would the hack and squirt be noticeable to an arborist?
Yes. Probably.
Hi John. I have an invasive swamp maple. What herbicide can I use
You can use a glyphosate product. Are you are in the southern U.S.? If so, consider waiting until the tree is dormant in early winter. Swamp maple does have high wildlife value if you can keep some of them on the property.
What herbicide can I use safely around dogs, cats, birds, tabbit
Nancy, what are you trying to control? For most consumer uses, a glyphosate herbicide works well and has pretty low toxicity for mammals and birds.
Round-up is considered harmful to dogs and cats if ingested, or if external contact when still wet. Where I live they display it only in a locked cabinet. I'm surprised at the answer you were given by Green Shoots!! Just google it...
@@jimbrennan7415 interesting, in our stores, everything is locked up, even bug killer, screw drivers and deodorant.
Does this work well with large beech trees, hack n swuirt.? I have 40 acres to FSi.
Yes, in fact, with big trees and lots of trees to deal with, it's the only way to go. Obviously, the trees will remain standing, so make sure the dead trees - snags - are not near lots of human activity. Usually, I find the snags gradually decay and weigh less over time. When they do come down, they often fall into other nearby trees. The snags also provide great wildlife habitat for insect loving birds, etc.
will this work on black locust? what about the suckers?
Yes, absolutely. fall and winter are the best times to do the treatment. You can do a cut stump treatment. For the suckers, make sure you cut and treat them. Cut all the stems within a few inches of the ground before treating.
Will the herbicide kill any grass or plants along the root line
As long as you don't get the herbicide onto the foliage of the desirable plants, you will be ok. This herbicide (glyphosate) binds tightly with soil.
How about cuckleburrs in hay field.the farmers we let use the ground brought them in from combining.moving from field to field
That's a bad situation. Cocklebur is an annual so the best time to apply an herbicide is in the spring when the weeds are small. Once the burs form, the only thing to do is to harvest them and burn or dispose of them.
I bought a gorgeous condo last Fall and paid waaaay more because it had a Lake view. I was pretty happy with the beauty of it all. I actually never noticed the maple tree lightly over to the side because it had no leaves at the time of purchase. (and it was generic, not even a nice maple). Well it grew about 3 feet taller over the past 4 months and of course wider and now I no longer have the lake view I paid for. I'm pretty choked. I can't do anything obvious like girdling or even drilling holes because there are too many eyes from all the other condos. I'm thinking about either pouring a 5 gallon container of roundup around it some night, or perhaps a ton of salt. I don't live in the US and have never seen Tordon or I would get that. Any great ideas.
Sorry. I can't help you there!
DO NOT dump 5 gal of round up you will unnecessarily contaminate the area with a known carcinogen. People are so gullible, assuming that if it's available for purchase, it must be safe. Corporations lie and cover up the truth about their products all of the time.
As for your tree, consider petitioning the condo association to hire a tree service to trim the offending limbs. Do some research on your rights first b/c if your request is likely to be denied any subsequent action you take to solve the problem on your own is likely to raise suspicions when people notice that the tree's health took a turn for the worse.
Before taking matters into your own hands, you need to carefully consider the consequences of your actions. Are you willing to lie about it if people question your involvement? I wouldn't lie. Are you willing to pay the consequences of getting caught? I would avoid taking action on your own if at all possible.
If you decide to do something on your own, you could use a drill instead of a hatchet to drill shallow holes around the perimeter of the trunk in a random fashion. They should be deep enough to penetrate into the cambium and you would squirt something like roundup into the holes. Do this in the fall or early winter.
Take a batt operated drill, 1/2 wood auger, 6"deep, round up, a wooden dowel, and a cold rainy evening, waalllaaa. You get the picture, I've done it to some nasty prized Russian Elms, evasive but some prize them, it takes about 2 months, remove the shavings though. A bit of silicon and some bark scrapings, Sherlock Holmes will need to be smart.
Request for a court order.Wexhave a right to view a tight to sunrise andvsunset😮
I am completely overrun by the cursed tree of heaven (seriously. They are so thick you can't walk through them). Do I need to do the hack and squirt on every one, even if the trunk is very small? And what herbicide works best? I've tried a couple of things, like tordon, but it didn't work. It's highly likely I did it wrong but your video helps with that. Thank you!!
A few questions: How tall are the tree-of-heave (TOH) stems you are treating? Is at least part of the main stem still a pretty bright green? If so, you should be able to treat that green portion of the main stem (and the lower portions of the leafstalks (i.e., petioles)) using foam herbicide with glyphosate. The green stem will absorb that herbicide pretty well. (A stem with cork bark (usually gray or brown) won't absorb much at all unless you use an ester herbicide.) Do you remember which Tordon product you used? Did it have 2, 4-D?
@@GreenShoots All I know of the Tordon was it said RTU548 on it. Some of the bigger trees are grey, but most are small and green. I'm afraid there might be a rather extensive root system running through my entire back yard because I didn't know that cutting them down or pulling them up would cause them to send out more shoots. The initial bunch of trees was planted in the early 1960s on my property line (by the owners of the adjacent property) and its been a battle to control them ever since (they're coming up over two blocks from my property in the town). They most certainly are not a tree of heaven!
If it'll work and with your help I'd like to purchase your foam herbicide and applicator.
@@cameronudall3502 Why don't you contact me and send me a couple photos so I can make a better assessment of whether our product would work for you - johnATgreenshootsonline.com. Late summer and early fall will be the perfect time to tackle it.
Would the hack and squirt method work for poison ivy "trunks" growing up large trees? Thanks, : )
Molly, yes it would work. Just remember to be very careful with poison ivy - touching the sap from the cut stem will be just as bad as touching the leaves. Be sure to wear pretty thick disposable gloves and a long sleeve shirt. Launder clothes separately. Clean the tool you use to make the cut with alcohol afterwards. You want to be sure to treat the poison ivy when it's dormant. That means in the fall or winter or early spring before the sap starts rising.
In September 2015, I'm girdling Chinese trees of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) and painting the cuts with undiluted triclopyr. The trees start to die within 3-4 days.
Can a herbicide be used for Russian Olive tree which is an invasive plant.
Yes, absolutely. With Russian olive, i would use the cut stump method if you possible. That works very well.
What is foam herbicide?, I have liquid round up, Will that work?
Green Shoots Foam Herbicide is a product that our company offers. We offer a package that includes a special dispenser, the herbicide, and a blue foaming agent. It's blue so you can see what you have treated. The foam is nice because you can be very accurate with the application and it doesn't drip.
If you have just a couple weed trees to kill, you can use Roundup and a paint brush. It should be roundup with an active ingredient above 10%. Just be extremely careful about drippage.
It works on Leylandi
I drilled to 1/2” holes about 3” deep and filled the holes with gly4 .Wait about 10 minutes and fill the holes again.I did this until I used approximately 4 ounces on a large oak tree, a week later I noticed leaves were already turning brown.
@@davidhensley3228 Same, works good. I use straight RU. Fill holes several times as tree drinks it.
@@davidhensley3228 hi, did you just drilled holes even without cutting the tree?
There is a tree in the neighbours waste bit of land that is leaving loads of mess in my garden when stuff falls out of it,,,,,is there anything I can do to secretly kill it or stop it from growing leaves in the summer
This video pretty much describes how to kill a tree. However, I can't recommend using the techniques without permission. Ask the neighbor. Maybe they neighbor doesn't like the tree either!
If it's not salt friendly you can dump salt all over the base right before a good rain. Nobody will know. Rock salt works best but that's noticeable because it won't dissolve right away. Just a whole can of table salt every week should do it. However if it's real close to your own garden you may ruin your soil too
I live in Florida so the salt technique doesn't work. But 5 years ago my neighbor planted a tree within two feet of the fence/property line in their backyard. The backyards here are tiny... Like less then 50 ft across. It's a tree that is going to get very big. The tree is now at least 20 ft tall and a good chunk of it hangs over in my backyard. It's completely rude to do that especially if it burdens the neighbors around you where they have to spend money to cut the limbs. So I feel your pain. I'm going to kill that tree.
Sir Charles the neighbours are proper scruffy where this tree is and it’s on the waste land just behind there garden and the wind is always blowing the crap that falls from it only in my garden and on my kids trampoline,,got to be something I can do to kill it
Green Shoots I’ve asked the neighbour who is very scruffy and she said I can cut it a little bit on my side but it just keeps growing and the wind keeps blowing all the crap of it and it goes all over my kids trampoline
At first you mention the two herbicides but the rest of the video it's all of sudden some kind of green foam??
The two herbicides I mention are glyphosate and triclopyr. These are two chemicals that people can readily buy at quantities suitable for the general consumer. Either of these herbicides can be turned into a foam herbicide using our Green Shoots Foam Herbicide Technology.
A peepal tree keeps growing back from (a small pin hole )water outlet passage of my window, this window is right in the middle of my stair case. As the age of my house is more than 100yrs, I am worried. What to do??? Much help needed. Thank you.
I am not exactly clear on what you want to do. You want to kill the tree because it might harm the foundation of the house?
@@GreenShoots yes exactly as I have no other choice. Had I another option then I would have gladly planted somewhere else. This is not the only place where this plant has cropped up,a few other are there, hence......
@@aparajitakar9737 - can you cut it down and treat the stump?
@@GreenShoots it's deep inside the wall. I will have to bring down the entire wall of my staircase . Would have shown the picture if it was possible.
Ever successfully killed an invasive camphor tree? I girdled a couple in January & one had most of leaves die up top but now it’s starting a bunch of new sprouts around the base. Whats the minimal amount/percentage of an herbicide I can use to make them die?
I would follow the procedures in this video, and it should die. Be sure to do the notches below where you girdled the tree. Also, cut each sprout put foam herbicide on the cut face.
Green Shoots Thanks. I want these trees dead! lol
They drop a ton of leaves plus their nasty berries & the row they are in also has 3 or 4 large oak trees too which also drop tons of leaves!
good luck!
So I've applied herbicides today on a few persistent patches of the infamous Japanese knotweed. Wish me luck.
+zwz • zdenek
Good luck! This is a good time of year to treat knotweed.
What happened (2 years later) dude?
irondssgr----------- to get rid of knotweed you must dig roots out , it will take several years to do this .
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in britain it is illegall to dig it out with a license to dispose of the roots afterwrds , as the roots will spread even worse then before !
Thank you for sharing this video! Your video helped me to rid of a Paulownia Tree on my property. However, I used Tordon RTU, and a wood chisel and it's already working within a week! Leaves are turning black and dropping like flies. Glad I worked on this in the fall. Hopefully the tree will completely die and avoid those shoots that often come up from the roots.
Cindy - You are welcome! And, yes, fall is definitely the right time to to take this on. You should have good success.
Thx
absolutely!
Started a few years back trying to kill locust trees by spraying them, Didn't work. Then cutting them, Didn't work. There are more of them now than what I started with. I will have to see if I can find this product locally then try it. I will have a nice field if I can get them out of there. Thanks for your video
Black locust are particularly difficult to get rid of, because they also reproduce in a colony, by sending shoots up through their roots, which can extend far from the drip line of the tree. Because of the extent of these roots. Full root penetration of herbicide may not be possible, and will often take up to three years to bring under control.
The method I prefer is to drill 1/2 inch holes, three inches deep, at a slightly downward angle (so the herbicide doesn't drain out), and fill that with a full concentrate (or undiluted mix of at least 30%) of glysophate, with each hole no more than four inches apart. Fill each hole with the concentrate solution. Do this in late august, to mid September depending on your region. Four weeks after all of the leaves have fallen off in autumn, you can cut the main tree down above the application area.
I recommend cutting the main tree down before the coming spring, so you don't have to risk cutting down a completely dead, and weathered tree that can be unpredictable when felling.
You will likely still get shoots the next year, but those can often be managed by spraying, or mowing depending on his large they are.
Diligence is key.
Is glysophate something I can buy without having a license ?
nunya bisnass you can also apply the same method to any exposed roots. Just keep in mind that the size of the hole to be drilled, should not be more than 1/4 of the diameter of the root.
Jim easily. Glyphosate is the active ingredient in roundup. Do not buy the name brand roundup concentrate, because it will be about $70 per gallon. You can order, or buy a one, or two gallon off brand jug online, or at certain agricultural supply stores like Agway, or tractor supply for about $30 per gallon.
The difference between the two seems to be the surfactants used (the chemical that allows greater penetration into the plant), because when mixing highly concentrated solutions with tap water, roundup won't precipitate into a goo and clog your equipment. But many off brands will if you don't use enough water.
It takes a little basic math, but I prefer to mix to a rough concentration of about 20% for the injection method described.
Now there are other things to consider. You may only want to remove those trees that present a problem to property such as potential storm damage, or that you need that space for something else. The reason I suggest this is, because locust are nitrogen fixing trees. They can be highly beneficial for adding nitrogen to the soil, without the use of fertilisers. They are also a fairly dense wood that give a good amount of heat in a wood stove for their burn time. But I would only suggest using the wood above the application area, because I'm not a chemist, and do not know if the heat of the fire will change the glysophate into something toxic while burning.
Thanks for all your help in this. I just ordered 4 packs, one gal. pr. pack of glysophate 73.3% for total of $10. off of Ebay
How long does it take?
It may take a month or longer before the tree completely dies.
Can I use pure Round-Up ( glyphosate 41%) without any dilation for a quick result for small to medium-sized trees? I had drilled 5-6 holes of 8mm wide and around 2 inches deep. Then I poured pure Round-Up with a syring in the hole.
Yes, you can. That strength is probably twice what you need. I am not generally a fan of techniques with drilled holes. The key is to expose as much of the inner bark (cambium) as possible. I think cuts with a hatchet or machete expose more of that live, inner bark. However, drilling can also do the trick. I usually reserve drilling for really large trees with thick bark.
That should work. Did you drill the holes through the bark into the live inner bark? And, did you inject the herbicide shortly after drilling the holes? (i.e., within 5-10 minutes) You only need about 20% active ingredient. It is amazing how little glyphosate is actually needed to do the job. The tree may take a long time to die.
Yes, i drilled around 4 inches inside with 8 mm drill. I think that much depth is enough to drill into inner bark and injected the roundup after drilling 5-6 holes, which took me not more than 7-8 minutes. Now I will wait and watch. The trees are medium size with the bark measuring from approx 12-18 inches in diameter.
That should work. it may take a month or two.
@@jameelsheik So, did it work?
I heard multiple people say gasoline will kill weeds and trees. but of course there is the issue if it's a hot day or if there's a spark ignited around it it could cause a fire.
The contents of a car battery kills weeds and trees as well. (Yeah some form of sarcasm is in there)
I have a few invasive magnolia trees growing along the edge of my property and i'm worried the roots are going to damage my inground swimming pool. We have stunted a few with table salt, but what would be the best way to get them gone for good?
I would trim them back now, basically leaving a tall stump - waist to chest height. Then, in the fall or winter, cut them at just above ground level and do a cut stump treatment as outlined in the video using glyphosate or triclopyr. You could cut them nearer the ground now but you likely will have more sprouts that will have to be treated in the fall or winter.
Green Shoots, Thank you so much 😊
Try epsom salt. best to try in fall as soon as leaves start to turn.
Thank you, I will save this. Whatever it was that I tried at first in cut application didn't work as far as I could tell. Thank you
You are welcome! This is a good time of year to apply because the trees are translocating sugars to the root system. Here is good advice from the Missouri Dept of Conservation on locust control: mdc.mo.gov/trees-plants/problem-plant-control/nuisance-native-plants/black-locust-control
I girdled and sprayed herbicide around a Bradford pear. After more than a month, the tree is still healthy.
Would this have been in July? What herbicide did you use? I would do a cut stump treatment on it this fall.
Does nailing copper nails on a tree kill the tree? Or is it just a myth?
I am glad you asked this question. I have searched, and I have never found one credible scientific report on this. I wish some scientist would study it! It would be helpful to have a study. However, I know of no land manager of public or private lands who uses this technique. If it really worked, I think those people would use the technique.
thanks green shoots....appreciate the advice....but I have goats that free range on my property and I need to know if thus stuff will poison them!!! I figure that with winter coming and the sap will be headed south that now is a good time to kill the stuff because I got it everywhere
does anybody know how to kill mesquite trees and tacahia ( pencil cactus )
Bruce i have not worked a lot with mesquite. Most experts recommend using triclopyr. For cut stem treatments, you could the Garlon 3A, which is the water-based triclopyr formulation. I would make sure you cut all the stems as close to the ground as possible. You might also try glyphosate. I have found it works well on many species if you cut the stem close to the ground (but not so close that you get dirt on it).
Spray diesel on them then wait i week
You cant save the forests from the trees. Right?
I hope we can save both!
@@GreenShoots fun little play on words
How to kill a fully grown jack tree??
Impossibe way to do that here...authorities will wake up and invest the case for fine you with more than 50.000$
What country are you located in?
@@GreenShoots Vienna , Austria
@@maozedung7270 Ah. If the tree is entirely on your property, can you legally kill or remove it?
@@GreenShoots It has nothing to do with your property or a park, just about the tree. But if you cut down a tree in a park here, you'll probably end up in a mental institution as well.
@@maozedung7270 Got it. I fully understand why one can't cut a tree down in a park or on any one else's property without proper permission. In most states in the U.S., local regulations (city, county, etc.) govern tree removal. At the local level, you might have to get a permit to cut down a tree on your own property. However, if the trunk of the tree is on your property, you, the property holder, generally can decide. The exceptions I am aware of are for diseased trees - you might be forced to cut those down. And, in some states like California, there are restrictions on cutting down certain tree species (although I believe permits may allow you to cut those down, too).
J
No thanks, I don't want to poison my world.
Then fuck off and go watch videos on how to make tofu pizza.
John Hasse.....why in the world did you even watch this post? Just so you can feel superior in some way?
You "poison" our world as much as anyone else. Probably more.
I rather poison my world than having my backyard taken over by hundreds of unstoppable plants. Currently i’m plucking sprouts every single week. I’ll let some grow for this summer and then poison it with Roundup like this video describes.
@@Engineer9736 Plucking sprouts is a nuisance. Eating poison is deadly. an interesting choice,,,, but I guess each person should be allowed to make his own choice.
Step 1: chainsaw. Any questions?
Just remember that some trees sprout prolifically from cut stumps and roots if not treated.
@@GreenShoots step 1, a: rent a stump grinder. Lol
Joseph Richardson You are stubborn. The roots of invasive plants can run for 10+ meters. You’ll have to dig up your whole backyard and not miss a single root or it will start all over again. Herbicide is the only solution. Just cutting the tree is the biggest mistake anyone makes who does not know these plants. Then the roots go wild and start prouting everywhere.
It’s even mentioned right in the beginning of the video at 0:05 . So a) You didn’t watch the video b) You lack knowledge and c) You are stubborn